I used a calibrator and for me 7% was about 120 nits. 10% was something like 130-140 nits. So you cannot directly just calculate it. If you don't have a calibrator I would aim for values under 10% and compare with your desired SDR mode setting.
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
- Start date
Try to press "windows key + p" + 1 x arrow down then enter.
Just received my CX48 after a couple of months waiting for the preorder. What a beast.
Still waiting on my 3080FTW3 so currently running on a 2080Super at 4K 60hz RGB.
At first glance, anyone else uses HDR even in the desktop ? Seems like the colors are much more vivid ?
Still waiting on my 3080FTW3 so currently running on a 2080Super at 4K 60hz RGB.
At first glance, anyone else uses HDR even in the desktop ? Seems like the colors are much more vivid ?
chimera991
[H]ard|Gawd
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Jut press windows button or the windows icon and type cursor. From there it should be cursor & pointer.
If you want to run HDR mode on the desktop then you should configure it to actually show SDR at the appropriate brightness. That's what the Windows SDR slider is for. SDR in HDR mode should look pretty much the same as SDR without HDR. If it looks more vivid then you probably have wide gamut or some other stuff reducing color accuracy.
t1337duder
Gawd
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Might not be a great idea to have brightness cranked for general desktop use. Having Energy Saving turned off and brightness set to 100 all the time is tempting fate I think in regards to potentially suffering visible burn-in. Also wears the TV out quicker. I generally use a combination of Energy Saving and keeping brightness around ~40. Playing a game or watching a movie? Then I'll turn up the brightness.
To be clear I don't think it's worth fear mongering about burn in, but being negible when using these TV's is what leads to burn in for the few that do end up experiencing it, so it's worth keeping in mind. Regular desktop use is a scenario commonly thought to lead to potential burn-in so the least someone could do to exhibit any sort of caution is to merely reduce brightness during occasions it matters least.
To be clear I don't think it's worth fear mongering about burn in, but being negible when using these TV's is what leads to burn in for the few that do end up experiencing it, so it's worth keeping in mind. Regular desktop use is a scenario commonly thought to lead to potential burn-in so the least someone could do to exhibit any sort of caution is to merely reduce brightness during occasions it matters least.
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Burn in on this display will happen if you do not take precautions. If you don't want to take precautions then just get another monitor for your desktop work ffs.
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- Joined
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I agree.
HDR content is designed and mastered for viewing in a dim to dark theater or home theater environment and so are OLED tvs. When I get mine, it is going to be a dedicated media and gaming "stage" display. When I'm not gaming on it, it will run movies or fullscreen streams, youtube, twitch , etc or do a 4k+ slideshow or audio visualization, etc. I'll have a 43" 4k VA on each side like bookends for everything else.
Think of it like the mainscreen in star trek.. they aren't doing all of their engineering and science work and experiments on their main viewer typically. All of their data is on other workstation screens while the main screen is the big show.
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The slider determines the absolute PQ value Windows sends to the TV for white in SDR content - it's independent of any calibration. If the measured brightness is not correct, the TV is not correctly calibrated. You will have the same error with any other source. Try a white level test pattern from a known accurate source like a Blu-ray player or pattern generator.
0% on the slider is 80 nits white in SDR content, and 100% is 480 nits.
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Get a non-LG 55" or get closer to it with the remote when you turn it off. If you're also turning off a device that's hdmi-cec enabled, just turn it off and the TV will turn off as well.
https://www.audioholics.com/news/bug-in-hdmi-2.1-chipsets
Not directly LG CX, but that sounds too familiar... Let's hope this isn't the same buggy HDMI 2.1 chipset in our TVs..
//Edit: according to heise.de this isn't even FW fixable... https://www.heise.de/news/Bug-in-HD...nsole-und-Grafikkarten-betroffen-4935888.html
Not directly LG CX, but that sounds too familiar... Let's hope this isn't the same buggy HDMI 2.1 chipset in our TVs..
//Edit: according to heise.de this isn't even FW fixable... https://www.heise.de/news/Bug-in-HD...nsole-und-Grafikkarten-betroffen-4935888.html
This would have no bearing on the TV itself as it seems to be an issue with passthrough instead.
A real bummer as I was considering upgrading my 10 year old Denon AVR1610 to a HDMI 2.1 compatible model. With LG TVs having issues with eARC seems like the best course of action is to wait until next year for that.
Anyone have access to the backside of their 48" CX and can measure the rear protrusion of the stand? Mainly looking for width and height at it's max. In other words width up close to the tv where it's widest and height from your desk or what ever to the thickest point up close to the tv since it tapers back. Thoughts are to have a corner table behind it on my desk for statues and want to make sure I get something that the leg span and bottom shelf will clear the backside of the stand since it's so freakin big.
Attachments
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Not sure about the Windows setting but there is/was a bug where having Quick Start+ on would turn on Screen Shift even though Screen Shift would show as off. The next time you see blurry text, just turn Screen Shift on and then back off and see if your text clears up. If so, just turn off Quick Start+.
equinox654
Gawd
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After learning about the LG CX series the other day. I listed my PG348Q ultra wide and iPad pro 11 on Facebook. The monitor had a buyer after 20 minutes lol.
What I'm wanting to do is get a cx 48 or cx 55 since it is the same price and when 3080s come back into stock pick one up and the ps5 as well.
I'll probably wall mount it in front of my desk and scoot my desk back a foot or so.
I have a samsung 55" q60fn that I used for a few days at 1440p 120hz and 4k 60 and it blew me away. Even being a mid range tv to my eyes looked better than any monitor that I've ever seen. Even using solidworks on it was pleasant.
I can't wait to see what the cx looks like.
I work from home 2 days a week doing solidworks design. I'm keeping my side monitor for notepad++ outlook and explorer windows.
Do you guys think ill be able to get a few years out of it with 16-20 hours a week of solidworks and 0-20 hours a week of gaming?
I plan on using dark themes on everything and keeping the brightness down and autohiding the task bar.
What I'm wanting to do is get a cx 48 or cx 55 since it is the same price and when 3080s come back into stock pick one up and the ps5 as well.
I'll probably wall mount it in front of my desk and scoot my desk back a foot or so.
I have a samsung 55" q60fn that I used for a few days at 1440p 120hz and 4k 60 and it blew me away. Even being a mid range tv to my eyes looked better than any monitor that I've ever seen. Even using solidworks on it was pleasant.
I can't wait to see what the cx looks like.
I work from home 2 days a week doing solidworks design. I'm keeping my side monitor for notepad++ outlook and explorer windows.
Do you guys think ill be able to get a few years out of it with 16-20 hours a week of solidworks and 0-20 hours a week of gaming?
I plan on using dark themes on everything and keeping the brightness down and autohiding the task bar.
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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- Dec 29, 2006
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- 435
No problem at all.
That 5.5Hz bug was exactly what I was able to force upon my 2070S setup too. I just can't replicate it anymore, but I think it was a weird combination if Alt+Tab out of the game, disable G-Sync jump back in and play around with V-Sync settings ingame. Maybe it also was LFC kicking in additionally, i honestly don't know anymore..
I need to look up youtube videos and see if I was actually experiencing the same thing or if it was something different showing the same symptoms in the hidden VRR OSD..
//Edit: this also may have been in the old .20 firmware..
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My CX / 3090 stays on 5.5 Hz when G-SYNC is working with a 118 fps cap.
Are you constantly on that 118fps cap framerate wise? I'd suspect gsync not working at all, just a tear- and stutterfree experience due to the high fps and refresh rate..
The benefits of higher Hz is complicated and can be extremely easily confounded by input lag and other things. Benefit of Higher Hz is also not going to be exactly equivalent on LCD vs OLED tech.
For casual gaming I just want my shit to work which right now is nothing that uses hdmi 2.1.
I feel there's actually some hope for big navi using 2.1 properly as amd tends to have less shenanigans with their launch drivers (but also less optimized, aka lower fps).
Good to know I was right about denon 2.1 being trash. Or is it good...
Waiting game continues until my CX can function properly for video, sound, gaming. At least the upscaling is great so I can enjoy watching old stuff on it in the mean time. 4k 120hz HDR, gsync, atmos still a big nope.
For casual gaming I just want my shit to work which right now is nothing that uses hdmi 2.1.
I feel there's actually some hope for big navi using 2.1 properly as amd tends to have less shenanigans with their launch drivers (but also less optimized, aka lower fps).
Good to know I was right about denon 2.1 being trash. Or is it good...
Waiting game continues until my CX can function properly for video, sound, gaming. At least the upscaling is great so I can enjoy watching old stuff on it in the mean time. 4k 120hz HDR, gsync, atmos still a big nope.
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I have a 43" 4k samsung on each side of my gaming monitor. I had to stand close to the IR sensor with my body blocking the line of sight to the other screen when I first set them up but once they were on the same page it was actually more convenient to operate them at the same time off of a single remote, mostly just to turn them on and off.
You could get an IR repeater. They have an IR sensor that sends the signal using wireless radio signals to a repeater unit you keep at/in front of the TV. Theoretically you could have the sensor in a different direction from your wife so her remote isn't pointing anywhere toward your computer screen. She'd just have to get used to pointing at the repeater's sensor instead of at the tv itself.
You could also mask/tape or otherwise cover the IR sensor on your monitor so it can't receive those signals at all. You could use black marker on a few layers of painter's tape which is less abusive to the screen's sensor plastic if you end up removing it someday. Otherwise you could cut a little square of velcro base and apply it to each side of the sensor, then put a strip of the other side of the velcro across the whole sensor. You could stick something to the back of that velcro peice too, like a slat of plastic, black wood, or flat black cupboard/tool drawer material that comes in rolls. That way you could easily remove and replace the cover if you ever wanted to use the IR on your screen.
Of course this doesn't work for things that use radio signals rather than IR. A lot of things that use radio have an antenna wire throughout the body or frame so it wouldn't be feasible to mask those off. However most screens still use IR. Some set top stuff like consoles and nvidia shields, logitech remote control systems, etc. use wireless though for example.
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How far away are you sitting? I'm using a 43" 16:9 at 3.5' to 4' and 125% seems to work well for most things scaling wise. At 40" to 48" viewing distances I think you'd be in the 45 to 50 degree optimal viewing angle with a 48" CX. I'd lean more toward 50 degree but using multiple monitors I might roll my island desk back a little farther to 45. With the ppi of a 48" 4k at my same ~48" viewing distance I think I might even be able to get away with 1:1 100% scaling, 125% at most. I can scale my 3rd party file browser (directory opus) and my web browsers and chat apps on the fly to tweak them but my menu bars, contextual/right click menus and graphics app tools and interfaces etc are all dependent on the default scaling.
The main two standards in the commercial world SMPTE and THX specifications as summarized in the diagram
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314viewing-angles/
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This is my own rule of thumb I came up with:
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do you have active instant gaming response or and free sync?
Ya not telling my wife how to point the remote
We use a harmony which sends IR so should be good. Where exactly is the sensor on the CX?
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I always have VSync enabled. With G-SYNC disabled, the game stutters even at a locked 118 fps (and stutters worse at lower values). With G-SYNC enabled, 118 fps is smooth like 120 fps VSync. So G-SYNC is definitely working.
so you use vsync and gsync at the same time ?
You should always be doing that.
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https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/
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https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/2/
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<... end of Blurbusters.com quotes...>
So as long as you cap your frame rate around 3 fps below the max Hz of your screen (using rivatuner or an in game frame limiter) you should never go over the max Hz and therefore never revert to v-sync on the top end.
Hopefully you would keep a frame rate average that keeps it's low end well above the 40Hz g-sync/VRR bottom limit of the LG CX displays too. That would probably mean a graph something like this:
(43fps) 58fps <<<< 73fpsHz >>>> 88fpsHz (103)
The extremes in parenthesis might vary from game to game allowing a somewhat lower frame rate average while still staying above the 40Hz limit. Some games stay more like +/-15fps from average rather than +/- 30fps for example. If you dropped below you'd just revert back to v-sync getting more input lag of 2 frames or more. So more input lag and also a very clunky or molasses like frame rate at those lows so in my opinion you should always try to stay above the lower VRR limit if possible. I try to achieve 100fps-Hz average to get into the 40 - 50% blur reduction and 5:3 to 2:1 motion definition range for 2/3 of the graph.
---------------------------------------------------
https://blurbusters.com/gsync/gsync101-input-lag-tests-and-settings/2/
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<... end of Blurbusters.com quotes...>
So as long as you cap your frame rate around 3 fps below the max Hz of your screen (using rivatuner or an in game frame limiter) you should never go over the max Hz and therefore never revert to v-sync on the top end.
Hopefully you would keep a frame rate average that keeps it's low end well above the 40Hz g-sync/VRR bottom limit of the LG CX displays too. That would probably mean a graph something like this:
(43fps) 58fps <<<< 73fpsHz >>>> 88fpsHz (103)
The extremes in parenthesis might vary from game to game allowing a somewhat lower frame rate average while still staying above the 40Hz limit. Some games stay more like +/-15fps from average rather than +/- 30fps for example. If you dropped below you'd just revert back to v-sync getting more input lag of 2 frames or more. So more input lag and also a very clunky or molasses like frame rate at those lows so in my opinion you should always try to stay above the lower VRR limit if possible. I try to achieve 100fps-Hz average to get into the 40 - 50% blur reduction and 5:3 to 2:1 motion definition range for 2/3 of the graph.
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equinox654
Gawd
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- Apr 7, 2005
- Messages
- 967
Well I just picked up a q80t to test before deciding on the CX. Mostly out of fear of burn in. To hell with it. Ill buy one every year or two.
I have had it plugged in for about an hour hate it. It is going back to best buy this weekend. Placing CX48 order as we speak....
This thing looks worse than the 2018 q60fn in my living room that made me want to try a QLED before taking the plunge into oled.. It is washed out and appears to have a horizontal grid pattern. That is very noticeable in the desktop.
Tested HDR in doom eternal and it. looked like shit. Washed out with no pop. Turned on game mode... putrid shit. Oh and turning on gsync hard locked my 1080ti.
My old triple monitor Dell 2408s had better color.
Ugh.
Edit: CX will be delivered Friday.
I have had it plugged in for about an hour hate it. It is going back to best buy this weekend. Placing CX48 order as we speak....
This thing looks worse than the 2018 q60fn in my living room that made me want to try a QLED before taking the plunge into oled.. It is washed out and appears to have a horizontal grid pattern. That is very noticeable in the desktop.
Tested HDR in doom eternal and it. looked like shit. Washed out with no pop. Turned on game mode... putrid shit. Oh and turning on gsync hard locked my 1080ti.
My old triple monitor Dell 2408s had better color.
Ugh.
Edit: CX will be delivered Friday.
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quovadis123
n00b
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- Nov 4, 2014
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- 18
Anyone know when BB will get the 48" in stock? I want to buy from BB because of the burn in warranty. Been watching their site for the last 2 weeks, no stock
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According to someone else in this thread, the squaretrade or some of the big box store's warranties cover burn in too but I have no proof of that. The only personal claim of the warranty coming through in this thread was I believe about a LG B8 OLED with burn in being replaced with a newer model a few years in on a bestbuy warranty.
BestBuy did have the 48" CX available to order to store for quite awhile but yes they are out of stock right now.
I've been waiting for november TV deals but also for firmware updates once the 3000 series gpus came out showing bugs in the CX. Hopefully it will get cleared up by the time some better OLED deals show up next month. A price drop would help vs 8.75% taxes here (and maybe even some of the warranty cost) for my total out of pocket not the current sticker price+ all of that. The 48" size and demand might end up not having very hot deals or any deals at all though. If I have to I'll get a 55" and make it work with modified viewing distance, if the price is right.
For example if there is a hot 55" deal for ~ 1200 + 105 tax + 189 2yr warranty ~~~> $ 1494
and if the 48" is still 1500+131tax+189 2yr warranty (329 for 5 yr is kind of pricey) ~> $1820
If I was sure squaretrade or a big box store like sam's club's warranty was solid for burn in I'd prob go that route instead of best buy's. I'd prob not even bother with warranty if I hadn't heard that bestbuy's covers burn in. I wasn't expecting to hear that.
BestBuy did have the 48" CX available to order to store for quite awhile but yes they are out of stock right now.
I've been waiting for november TV deals but also for firmware updates once the 3000 series gpus came out showing bugs in the CX. Hopefully it will get cleared up by the time some better OLED deals show up next month. A price drop would help vs 8.75% taxes here (and maybe even some of the warranty cost) for my total out of pocket not the current sticker price+ all of that. The 48" size and demand might end up not having very hot deals or any deals at all though. If I have to I'll get a 55" and make it work with modified viewing distance, if the price is right.
For example if there is a hot 55" deal for ~ 1200 + 105 tax + 189 2yr warranty ~~~> $ 1494
and if the 48" is still 1500+131tax+189 2yr warranty (329 for 5 yr is kind of pricey) ~> $1820
If I was sure squaretrade or a big box store like sam's club's warranty was solid for burn in I'd prob go that route instead of best buy's. I'd prob not even bother with warranty if I hadn't heard that bestbuy's covers burn in. I wasn't expecting to hear that.
55"? Man you'd have to sit like atleast 5' back...
Nah you don't neccesarily..
I'm at a little over 2' (70cm) from a 55" for desktop use and about 3' to 4' (90-120cm) for relaxed (gamepad) gaming (leaning back in my office chair and putting my feet on the table).
Playing FPS shooters though is very borderline at 2'..
The 48CX surely is the better size for desktop use and FPS keyboard+mouse gaming, but for relaxed, lean back posture the 55 actually is pretty perfect.
The 55CX is about a 1080p 27" (x4) experience PPI wise and the 48" is about a 1080p 24" (x4) experience. Non-issue in games though at 4k (imho).
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More like 3.8 to 4' (minimum), so yes up to 8 inch farther away than 40" so around a (4 foot) 48" viewing distance... but not 24" farther away at 60" viewing distance like you saying at 5 foot away.
It seems like if you subtract about 1/6th of the monitor's diagonal size you get a rough estimate of a reasonable "nearest" viewing distance to work from. (rough "nearest" estimate, not necessarily "best" distance).
Monitor size divided by 6 , times 5 = viewing distance
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15" = 12.5" (around 1')
27" = 22.5" (a bit under 2')
32" = 26.6" (a few inch past 2')
43" = 35.8" (about 3')
48" = 40" viewing distance (or greater)
55" = 45.8" (3.8' - 4')
65" = 54.16" (4.5')
70" = 58.33" (4.86' - 5')
This is a 48" compared to a 55".
45 to 50 degree optimal viewing angle ... at which distance the perceived pixel density is much greater and probably at the limit of 1:1 (no scaling) at 4k resolution
The main two standards in the commercial world SMPTE and THX specifications as summarized in the diagram
http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/2013314viewing-angles/
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