LG 48CX

I’ve done my first round of gaming and have some findings on gsync.

pendulum shows stuttering. But in game Hell Let Loose no stuttering whatsoever and no tearing. Everything at epic - framed between 50-100.

Horizon Zero Dawn: no stutter. Frames around 60-80 all max. HDR is amazing. But tearing with Gsync... don’t know why. Also played with BFI. Not sure i actually see the difference.

Borderlands 3. Great HDR. 70-90 fps. No tearing or stuttering.
 
I’ve done my first round of gaming and have some findings on gsync.

pendulum shows stuttering. But in game Hell Let Loose no stuttering whatsoever and no tearing. Everything at epic - framed between 50-100.

Horizon Zero Dawn: no stutter. Frames around 60-80 all max. HDR is amazing. But tearing with Gsync... don’t know why. Also played with BFI. Not sure i actually see the difference.

Borderlands 3. Great HDR. 70-90 fps. No tearing or stuttering.
and if you enable amd freesync?
 
Just dropping a quick note that today I "upgraded" to the LG 48CX from a 55" LG C9.. Prior to the C9 I was using an LG C6 (55" Curved) OLED and as I suspected while I was fine with the 55" as a Desktop Monitor the smaller size of the 48" is much much nicer. I would even say having used the Dell 43" 4K LCD's at work for some years that even if LG made a 43" OLED I would stick with the 48" size... its pretty much a perfect size for gaming and desktop/office work. Very Happy.
I was a nay-sayer about 48" and went with it anyway. But damnit, 48" is growing on me bigtime.
 
I’ve done my first round of gaming and have some findings on gsync.

pendulum shows stuttering. But in game Hell Let Loose no stuttering whatsoever and no tearing. Everything at epic - framed between 50-100.

Horizon Zero Dawn: no stutter. Frames around 60-80 all max. HDR is amazing. But tearing with Gsync... don’t know why. Also played with BFI. Not sure i actually see the difference.

Borderlands 3. Great HDR. 70-90 fps. No tearing or stuttering.
What card are you using? I've got a rtx 3090 and an i9-9900k OC and I'm getting 45 -50 fps on horizon zero dawn with ultra settings. Are you in 4k?
 
Make sure the hdmi input icon on the cc is set to PC. That will allow pc resolutions. In nvcp resolutions scroll down and select 4k. You can now set it to 120hz and enable hdr.
It's been this way. I can get 4k 120hz easy. But never hdr.
 
What settings are you using within the NVIDIA control panel? Make sure to use at least 10-bit output. Aside from that, you need to enable "HDMI Deep Color" for the HDMI input you are using, since that effectively controls whether HDR can be supported.
The only setting that even allowed any 4k options is 8 bit ybbr4220. If I select any other option, it defaults to a very awefull resolution, and I must step up to 1080p first then fix the color options, then back to 4k.
 
The only setting that even allowed any 4k options is 8 bit ybbr4220. If I select any other option, it defaults to a very awefull resolution, and I must step up to 1080p first then fix the color options, then back to 4k.
I can simply select 10bit rgb with no issue with 4k 120Hz on my 3080, and hdr works. maybe properly clean driver reinstall, if you haven't?
 
I can simply select 10bit rgb with no issue with 4k 120Hz on my 3080, and hdr works. maybe properly clean driver reinstall, if you haven't?
Tried clean driver install too.

Perhaps it's the hdmi cable? I know those have been an issue. I ordered another 48gps hdmi, I'll be able to test it on Sunday.


This is a totally out there question.... But I bought the rtx 3090 from someone, "new", BUT, is it possible that he could have hacked the bios and gave me a "trojan horse".
 
Tried clean driver install too.

Perhaps it's the hdmi cable? I know those have been an issue. I ordered another 48gps hdmi, I'll be able to test it on Sunday.


This is a totally out there question.... But I bought the rtx 3090 from someone, "new", BUT, is it possible that he could have hacked the bios and gave me a "trojan horse".
That is a whole lot of effort to just hack you, a random person to sell to.
 
Tried clean driver install too.

Perhaps it's the hdmi cable? I know those have been an issue. I ordered another 48gps hdmi, I'll be able to test it on Sunday.


This is a totally out there question.... But I bought the rtx 3090 from someone, "new", BUT, is it possible that he could have hacked the bios and gave me a "trojan horse".
Not a hack.. just a classic scam lol.

PS: it took me 2 freakin days to realize that there is a glossy pull-off wrap covering the whole panel.. Wanted to pull off the sticker in the corner and off came 55" worth of plastic wrap 🙈 I knew it didn't look that glossy in the store.. 😂
 
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That is a whole lot of effort to just hack you, a random person to sell to.
Wouldn't be that hard to check; just check the length of the card. And this is done a LOT when there's a supply issue with cards; it happened a ton when bitcoin mining on GPUs was still a thing.

The only setting that even allowed any 4k options is 8 bit ybbr4220. If I select any other option, it defaults to a very awefull resolution, and I must step up to 1080p first then fix the color options, then back to 4k.
I've got a suspicion HDMI 2.0 is being used. You can get 4k120 using 420, and 4k60 10-bit HDR at 422 using HDMI 2.0.

At this point, given you apparently got the card from a re-seller, I'd verify what you actually have before doing anything else. I'd check the length of the GPU, since no other GPU is as long as the 3090 is. If it comes up short, then you've been screwed by you buyer. If the card is genuine, then you'd need to verify the cable somehow, since you shouldn't be having these issues. It's also possible the TV isn't being detected right; I had issues with my B6 initially so it might be worth checking with the GPU thinks the display is.
 
What card are you using? I've got a rtx 3090 and an i9-9900k OC and I'm getting 45 -50 fps on horizon zero dawn with ultra settings. Are you in 4k?
9900k stock. 4k everything maxed. 3080. I was getting your frames with a 2080ti...
 
I have a new issue with G-SYNC in Dota 2. I use an in-game fps limit of 118 with Vsync enabled. The game runs smoothly for around 10 minutes before the fps suddenly drops to 60 and stays there. If I disable Vsync, it goes back up to 118, but it stutters terribly. Only restarting the game fixes it.

It's been months since I used a hardware G-SYNC monitor so I don't know if the issue is with the 3090 / CX, or with the game / drivers.
 
Just a note. People need to add what firmware version they using on their tv. It would help in keeping track of what problems/success people are having not to mention trouble shooting.
 
Tried clean driver install too.

Perhaps it's the hdmi cable? I know those have been an issue. I ordered another 48gps hdmi, I'll be able to test it on Sunday.


This is a totally out there question.... But I bought the rtx 3090 from someone, "new", BUT, is it possible that he could have hacked the bios and gave me a "trojan horse".
Did you try the different hdmi ports on the gpu too? I read someone on reddit only had one functioning hdmi 2.1 or so.
 
I have a new issue with G-SYNC in Dota 2. I use an in-game fps limit of 118 with Vsync enabled. The game runs smoothly for around 10 minutes before the fps suddenly drops to 60 and stays there. If I disable Vsync, it goes back up to 118, but it stutters terribly. Only restarting the game fixes it.

It's been months since I used a hardware G-SYNC monitor so I don't know if the issue is with the 3090 / CX, or with the game / drivers.
That sounds more like a NVIDIA issue; the TV shouldn't be driving rendering speed.

Also note the TV isn't hardware Gsync; it's HDMI-VRR/Freesync. NVIDIA is just branding everything "Gsync" and "Gsync Compatible" because NVIDIA.
 
I'm getting stuttering and tearing on Pendulum with 03.11.25, 3080, 4K 60Hz (HDMI 2.0)

Bought the TV for Gsync but doesn't look like it's working
 
This is a totally out there question.... But I bought the rtx 3090 from someone, "new", BUT, is it possible that he could have hacked the bios and gave me a "trojan horse".
That would be a lot of effort to make a heatsink that looks like the 3090 one and then modifying a BIOS to make it show up as a 3090. Post pics if you want us to take a look.

Your issues are most likely with the cable. HDMI cables that are not up to scratch can do weird things. When I was hunting for a long 8+ meter HDMI cable that would deliver 4K 60 Hz 4:4:4 + HDR, I went through several and saw things like flickering, blank screens, randomly missing resolutions/refresh rates/color spaces, HDR not activating...

All you need to do to make your TV work as expected on PC are these things:
  • Use a HDMI Ultra high speed cable. Marketing may call it HDMI 2.1, 4K 120Hz, 8K 60 Hz or even 10K.
  • Turn on HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color from TV settings.
  • Turn on Instant Game Response from TV settings.
  • Set TV to Game mode for lowest input lag.
  • Set TV white balance color temperature to "Warm 2" for the most accurate color out of the box.
  • Set input icon to "PC" from TV Home Dashboard settings. Input can be named whatever you want, the icon is the only thing that matters.
  • Set Nvidia Control panel to use 4K 120 Hz 8 or 10-bit color.
  • Turn on HDR from Windows Display Settings.
 
Do the 48CX and the 55CX have the same mounting dimensions for the stand?

Still have to come up with a proper mounting solution on my desk. Wall mounts are too thick, stands to deep.

Looks like I'll have to design something 3D-printed that's low profile..

Does anybody have information about the screw hole depth of the foot and vesa mounts?

Ideally I have a bracket that screws into the foot mount and extends below the TV around the LED and housing so it doesn't rest on the panel (right now I have wood chips under the box) and some solution that goes into the vesa mount and the wall so it doesn't tilt forward (that thing is unexpectedly front heavy)

The 55" C9 and the 48" CX partially share some of the same stand components (there are two pieces to the stand) The front piece that you see is a little less wide and about 30% skinnier than the 55" while the back part (the part the actually screws into the back of the TV) is 100% the exact same.
 
What the hell? It does not really have G-Sync? It does not really have full HDMI 2.1? I know these are non-issues but there really should not be that much confusion. I have never been so confused. Having said that, I did just turn 40.
 
When G-Sync came out, Nvidia actually made a module in the monitors which and dubbed those monitors G-Sync. This also jacked up the price of a monitors. Now Nvidia supports VRR from most monitors and dubs them G-Sync compatible. Doesn't mean they have the modules, just means you can use VRR with an Nvidia monitor.

So, now its just a marketing ploy. Some monitors that don't have a G-Sync compatible sticker or anything can actually still be used with Nvidia G-Sync...

Hopefully this isn't confusing?.....It was a big mess back in the day!
 
I understand it can be confusing.

But yeah this TV has no G-sync hardware. G-sync is the name that nvidia gives to VRR, while AMD calls it Freesync (I'm sure AMD will eventually do VRR on this TV once they got HDMI 2.1 GPUs).

Most monitors and TVs today have at least some sort of basic VRR functionality (for the record while very tricky you can brute force a basic form of VRR on just about anything as long as it doesn't have a scaler). However because there is no dedicated (and expensive) hardware like the special G-sync monitors, we are relying a lot more on software - so there are limitations (limited range, overdrive control for LCDs...) and glitches from both GPU drivers and the display firmware that can cause a bit of a headache, as we can see in this thread.

While I'm sure it's possible to find flaws in monitors with the G-sync module too, for me it has literally never failed and always worked 100% perfectly with anything I threw at it. G-sync compatible is a very different can of worms.

I believe the issues on this TV will be ironed out, especially because VRR worked totally fine on Turing (at 60hz full RGB or 120hz 4:2:0) as far as I know (I'm still stuck on Pascal, thanks to this botched launch). I'm only really worried about the near black issue (perhaps it can be "calibrated out" or something, we will see).

Still a fantastic display even without VRR and without full chroma at 120hz. OLED is simply amazing.
 
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That would be a lot of effort to make a heatsink that looks like the 3090 one and then modifying a BIOS to make it show up as a 3090. Post pics if you want us to take a look.

Your issues are most likely with the cable. HDMI cables that are not up to scratch can do weird things. When I was hunting for a long 8+ meter HDMI cable that would deliver 4K 60 Hz 4:4:4 + HDR, I went through several and saw things like flickering, blank screens, randomly missing resolutions/refresh rates/color spaces, HDR not activating...

All you need to do to make your TV work as expected on PC are these things:
  • Use a HDMI Ultra high speed cable. Marketing may call it HDMI 2.1, 4K 120Hz, 8K 60 Hz or even 10K.
  • Turn on HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color from TV settings.
  • Turn on Instant Game Response from TV settings.
  • Set TV to Game mode for lowest input lag.
  • Set TV white balance color temperature to "Warm 2" for the most accurate color out of the box.
  • Set input icon to "PC" from TV Home Dashboard settings. Input can be named whatever you want, the icon is the only thing that matters.
  • Set Nvidia Control panel to use 4K 120 Hz 8 or 10-bit color.
  • Turn on HDR from Windows Display Settings.
Everything on your list has already been done, however, I do believe you are correct and my "48gps 8k HDMI cable" is not too spec. I ordered another cable and will have it Sunday. According to other people, this cable works. The only problem is it's to short.

But having an hdmi cable drapped in the air across my room is worth it for rtx 3090, LG CX 4k 120hz VRR with HDR. :)
 
Do I enable "AMD Freesync Premium" on the TV itself? I can't notice any difference with it being enabled or disabled.. I can select "Gsync Compatible" with it on and also off..
 
Do I enable "AMD Freesync Premium" on the TV itself? I can't notice any difference with it being enabled or disabled.. I can select "Gsync Compatible" with it on and also off..
I tried both, and I couldn't tell a difference. I just don't think it matters.

Other news.

I tried Battlefield 1 on my RTX 3080 with 4K/120 4:4:4 and it is astoundingly good. It would be PERFECT with GSYNC once that flickering issue gets fixed. I seriously cannot imagine a better experience than this. It is that good.
 
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Completely satisfied with the 48CX as a monitor. Two weeks in and this is basically the perfect size and ppi for a win10 desktop at 100% scaling.

I'm using the Club-3D CAC-1085 w/a Radeon Pro W5500 at 3840x2160@60hz 8-bit with dithering RGB 4:4:4 Full HDR, the TV is in PC Mode on Game HDR with Instant Game Response and HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color enabled (OLED LIGHT 75, Contrast 50, Brightness 50, Sharpness 0, Color 50, Tint 0, Dynamic Tone Mapping On) and disabled TPC via the service menu.

ClearType looks great - folks seeing rainbow effects ought to double check their Ultra HD Deep Color setting, apparently when that's not enabled you're not getting full resolution chroma regardless what the PC is telling you.

Coming from an LCD the deep color contrast is really incredible, and the lack of any sort of flicker is noticeably softer on the eyes after many consecutive hours especially at night. What's really neat is since black = off, you can set your desktop background to black and it's like each window is its own little dedicated screen - it's hard to describe how pleasant that is at night in a dark office.

+1 highly recommend this as a PC monitor upgrade!
 
Do I enable "AMD Freesync Premium" on the TV itself? I can't notice any difference with it being enabled or disabled.. I can select "Gsync Compatible" with it on and also off..

I might be mistaken, but as things currently stand:

Gsync (NVIDIA only): NVIDIA GPU outputs HDMI-VRR.

Freesync (AMD only?): AMD outputs VESA Adaptive Sync over HDMI.

Not sure if enabling Freesync with a NVIDIA GPU would do anything or not; I'd suspect not.
 
Did you guys tested LFC on the CX?

With the current NV driver 456.71 and the C9 firmware 05.00.03, and RTX 3080, LFC seems to work very well.

I tested the following, locked at 35FPS, Game = Control:

60Hz + GSYNC + VSYNC = strong stutter
120Hz + VSYNC, without GSYNC = slight stutter
120Hz + GSYNC + VSYNC = 100% stutterfree, so LFC seems to work then. Unfortunately, I cannot display the refreshrate, but LFC should work at 70Hz at that moment. The difference is not obvious at first, but as soon as you look closely, you can see it IMO very clearly. Spinning the camera just looks smooth.

Edit: By the way, i had to reactivate VSYNC in the driver every time i turned GSYNC off and on.

Edit2: The most evident for LFC is that without VRR and VSYNC enabled, there is screen-tearing like hell. Once you activate VRR, tearing is gone.
 
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Did you guys tested LFC on the CX?

With the current NV driver 456.71 and the C9 firmware 05.00.03, and RTX 3080, LFC seems to work very well.

I tested the following, locked at 35FPS, Game = Control:

60Hz + GSYNC + VSYNC = strong stutter
120Hz + VSYNC, without GSYNC = slight stutter
120Hz + GSYNC + VSYNC = 100% stutterfree, so LFC seems to work then. Unfortunately, I cannot display the refreshrate, but LFC should work at 70Hz at that moment. The difference is not obvious at first, but as soon as you look closely, you can see it IMO very clearly. Spinning the camera just looks smooth.

Edit: By the way, i had to reactivate VSYNC in the driver every time i turned GSYNC off and on.
Hammer/spam the green button on the TV remote. It shows a hidden overlay disolaying VRR info. I think it also shows the actual refresh rate of the TV
 
Completely satisfied with the 48CX as a monitor. Two weeks in and this is basically the perfect size and ppi for a win10 desktop at 100% scaling.

I'm using the Club-3D CAC-1085 w/a Radeon Pro W5500 at 3840x2160@60hz 8-bit with dithering RGB 4:4:4 Full HDR, the TV is in PC Mode on Game HDR with Instant Game Response and HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color enabled (OLED LIGHT 75, Contrast 50, Brightness 50, Sharpness 0, Color 50, Tint 0, Dynamic Tone Mapping On) and disabled TPC via the service menu.

ClearType looks great - folks seeing rainbow effects ought to double check their Ultra HD Deep Color setting, apparently when that's not enabled you're not getting full resolution chroma regardless what the PC is telling you.

Coming from an LCD the deep color contrast is really incredible, and the lack of any sort of flicker is noticeably softer on the eyes after many consecutive hours especially at night. What's really neat is since black = off, you can set your desktop background to black and it's like each window is its own little dedicated screen - it's hard to describe how pleasant that is at night in a dark office.

+1 highly recommend this as a PC monitor upgrade!
I have been rocking a 40" 4k that is attached to my standing desk via arm...the PPI is such that it's in a sweet spot and I was thinking of downsizing because I don't know how much I put things in the corners...but that'd mean I'd probably be leaning and squinting a lot more, now that I think about it. But adding an extra 8" seems silly to be that up close to. About how far are you from it, and do you use the corners much? Any simulates monitor borders using software that divides the screen?

I suppose I could wall mount it and move my standing desk back, I just don't know if I want it to come to that, as I like my monitor moving with my height.
 
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