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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
- Start date
Did you try the different hdmi ports on the gpu too? I read someone on reddit only had one functioning hdmi 2.1 or so.
That sounds more like a NVIDIA issue; the TV shouldn't be driving rendering speed.
Also note the TV isn't hardware Gsync; it's HDMI-VRR/Freesync. NVIDIA is just branding everything "Gsync" and "Gsync Compatible" because NVIDIA.
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- Jun 19, 2003
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No it is not. The TV does not have the Gsync module built into it. It is Gsync Compatible only.
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Correct. It is not Gsync Hardware.
That would be a lot of effort to make a heatsink that looks like the 3090 one and then modifying a BIOS to make it show up as a 3090. Post pics if you want us to take a look.
Your issues are most likely with the cable. HDMI cables that are not up to scratch can do weird things. When I was hunting for a long 8+ meter HDMI cable that would deliver 4K 60 Hz 4:4:4 + HDR, I went through several and saw things like flickering, blank screens, randomly missing resolutions/refresh rates/color spaces, HDR not activating...
All you need to do to make your TV work as expected on PC are these things:
- Use a HDMI Ultra high speed cable. Marketing may call it HDMI 2.1, 4K 120Hz, 8K 60 Hz or even 10K.
- Turn on HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color from TV settings.
- Turn on Instant Game Response from TV settings.
- Set TV to Game mode for lowest input lag.
- Set TV white balance color temperature to "Warm 2" for the most accurate color out of the box.
- Set input icon to "PC" from TV Home Dashboard settings. Input can be named whatever you want, the icon is the only thing that matters.
- Set Nvidia Control panel to use 4K 120 Hz 8 or 10-bit color.
- Turn on HDR from Windows Display Settings.
TheGameguru
[H]ard|Gawd
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- May 31, 2002
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The 55" C9 and the 48" CX partially share some of the same stand components (there are two pieces to the stand) The front piece that you see is a little less wide and about 30% skinnier than the 55" while the back part (the part the actually screws into the back of the TV) is 100% the exact same.
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- Mar 8, 2007
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What the hell? It does not really have G-Sync? It does not really have full HDMI 2.1? I know these are non-issues but there really should not be that much confusion. I have never been so confused. Having said that, I did just turn 40.
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When G-Sync came out, Nvidia actually made a module in the monitors which and dubbed those monitors G-Sync. This also jacked up the price of a monitors. Now Nvidia supports VRR from most monitors and dubs them G-Sync compatible. Doesn't mean they have the modules, just means you can use VRR with an Nvidia monitor.
So, now its just a marketing ploy. Some monitors that don't have a G-Sync compatible sticker or anything can actually still be used with Nvidia G-Sync...
Hopefully this isn't confusing?.....It was a big mess back in the day!
So, now its just a marketing ploy. Some monitors that don't have a G-Sync compatible sticker or anything can actually still be used with Nvidia G-Sync...
Hopefully this isn't confusing?.....It was a big mess back in the day!
I understand it can be confusing.
But yeah this TV has no G-sync hardware. G-sync is the name that nvidia gives to VRR, while AMD calls it Freesync (I'm sure AMD will eventually do VRR on this TV once they got HDMI 2.1 GPUs).
Most monitors and TVs today have at least some sort of basic VRR functionality (for the record while very tricky you can brute force a basic form of VRR on just about anything as long as it doesn't have a scaler). However because there is no dedicated (and expensive) hardware like the special G-sync monitors, we are relying a lot more on software - so there are limitations (limited range, overdrive control for LCDs...) and glitches from both GPU drivers and the display firmware that can cause a bit of a headache, as we can see in this thread.
While I'm sure it's possible to find flaws in monitors with the G-sync module too, for me it has literally never failed and always worked 100% perfectly with anything I threw at it. G-sync compatible is a very different can of worms.
I believe the issues on this TV will be ironed out, especially because VRR worked totally fine on Turing (at 60hz full RGB or 120hz 4:2:0) as far as I know (I'm still stuck on Pascal, thanks to this botched launch). I'm only really worried about the near black issue (perhaps it can be "calibrated out" or something, we will see).
Still a fantastic display even without VRR and without full chroma at 120hz. OLED is simply amazing.
But yeah this TV has no G-sync hardware. G-sync is the name that nvidia gives to VRR, while AMD calls it Freesync (I'm sure AMD will eventually do VRR on this TV once they got HDMI 2.1 GPUs).
Most monitors and TVs today have at least some sort of basic VRR functionality (for the record while very tricky you can brute force a basic form of VRR on just about anything as long as it doesn't have a scaler). However because there is no dedicated (and expensive) hardware like the special G-sync monitors, we are relying a lot more on software - so there are limitations (limited range, overdrive control for LCDs...) and glitches from both GPU drivers and the display firmware that can cause a bit of a headache, as we can see in this thread.
While I'm sure it's possible to find flaws in monitors with the G-sync module too, for me it has literally never failed and always worked 100% perfectly with anything I threw at it. G-sync compatible is a very different can of worms.
I believe the issues on this TV will be ironed out, especially because VRR worked totally fine on Turing (at 60hz full RGB or 120hz 4:2:0) as far as I know (I'm still stuck on Pascal, thanks to this botched launch). I'm only really worried about the near black issue (perhaps it can be "calibrated out" or something, we will see).
Still a fantastic display even without VRR and without full chroma at 120hz. OLED is simply amazing.
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Everything on your list has already been done, however, I do believe you are correct and my "48gps 8k HDMI cable" is not too spec. I ordered another cable and will have it Sunday. According to other people, this cable works. The only problem is it's to short.
But having an hdmi cable drapped in the air across my room is worth it for rtx 3090, LG CX 4k 120hz VRR with HDR.
I tried both, and I couldn't tell a difference. I just don't think it matters.
Other news.
I tried Battlefield 1 on my RTX 3080 with 4K/120 4:4:4 and it is astoundingly good. It would be PERFECT with GSYNC once that flickering issue gets fixed. I seriously cannot imagine a better experience than this. It is that good.
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- May 5, 2006
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Completely satisfied with the 48CX as a monitor. Two weeks in and this is basically the perfect size and ppi for a win10 desktop at 100% scaling.
I'm using the Club-3D CAC-1085 w/a Radeon Pro W5500 at 3840x2160@60hz 8-bit with dithering RGB 4:4:4 Full HDR, the TV is in PC Mode on Game HDR with Instant Game Response and HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color enabled (OLED LIGHT 75, Contrast 50, Brightness 50, Sharpness 0, Color 50, Tint 0, Dynamic Tone Mapping On) and disabled TPC via the service menu.
ClearType looks great - folks seeing rainbow effects ought to double check their Ultra HD Deep Color setting, apparently when that's not enabled you're not getting full resolution chroma regardless what the PC is telling you.
Coming from an LCD the deep color contrast is really incredible, and the lack of any sort of flicker is noticeably softer on the eyes after many consecutive hours especially at night. What's really neat is since black = off, you can set your desktop background to black and it's like each window is its own little dedicated screen - it's hard to describe how pleasant that is at night in a dark office.
+1 highly recommend this as a PC monitor upgrade!
I'm using the Club-3D CAC-1085 w/a Radeon Pro W5500 at 3840x2160@60hz 8-bit with dithering RGB 4:4:4 Full HDR, the TV is in PC Mode on Game HDR with Instant Game Response and HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color enabled (OLED LIGHT 75, Contrast 50, Brightness 50, Sharpness 0, Color 50, Tint 0, Dynamic Tone Mapping On) and disabled TPC via the service menu.
ClearType looks great - folks seeing rainbow effects ought to double check their Ultra HD Deep Color setting, apparently when that's not enabled you're not getting full resolution chroma regardless what the PC is telling you.
Coming from an LCD the deep color contrast is really incredible, and the lack of any sort of flicker is noticeably softer on the eyes after many consecutive hours especially at night. What's really neat is since black = off, you can set your desktop background to black and it's like each window is its own little dedicated screen - it's hard to describe how pleasant that is at night in a dark office.
+1 highly recommend this as a PC monitor upgrade!
antonlissone
Weaksauce
- Joined
- May 15, 2020
- Messages
- 85
For me - no gsync issues of flickering...
3080/cx48/3.11.26
3080/cx48/3.11.26
I might be mistaken, but as things currently stand:
Gsync (NVIDIA only): NVIDIA GPU outputs HDMI-VRR.
Freesync (AMD only?): AMD outputs VESA Adaptive Sync over HDMI.
Not sure if enabling Freesync with a NVIDIA GPU would do anything or not; I'd suspect not.
Did you guys tested LFC on the CX?
With the current NV driver 456.71 and the C9 firmware 05.00.03, and RTX 3080, LFC seems to work very well.
I tested the following, locked at 35FPS, Game = Control:
60Hz + GSYNC + VSYNC = strong stutter
120Hz + VSYNC, without GSYNC = slight stutter
120Hz + GSYNC + VSYNC = 100% stutterfree, so LFC seems to work then. Unfortunately, I cannot display the refreshrate, but LFC should work at 70Hz at that moment. The difference is not obvious at first, but as soon as you look closely, you can see it IMO very clearly. Spinning the camera just looks smooth.
Edit: By the way, i had to reactivate VSYNC in the driver every time i turned GSYNC off and on.
Edit2: The most evident for LFC is that without VRR and VSYNC enabled, there is screen-tearing like hell. Once you activate VRR, tearing is gone.
With the current NV driver 456.71 and the C9 firmware 05.00.03, and RTX 3080, LFC seems to work very well.
I tested the following, locked at 35FPS, Game = Control:
60Hz + GSYNC + VSYNC = strong stutter
120Hz + VSYNC, without GSYNC = slight stutter
120Hz + GSYNC + VSYNC = 100% stutterfree, so LFC seems to work then. Unfortunately, I cannot display the refreshrate, but LFC should work at 70Hz at that moment. The difference is not obvious at first, but as soon as you look closely, you can see it IMO very clearly. Spinning the camera just looks smooth.
Edit: By the way, i had to reactivate VSYNC in the driver every time i turned GSYNC off and on.
Edit2: The most evident for LFC is that without VRR and VSYNC enabled, there is screen-tearing like hell. Once you activate VRR, tearing is gone.
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Hammer/spam the green button on the TV remote. It shows a hidden overlay disolaying VRR info. I think it also shows the actual refresh rate of the TV
I have the C9, doesn't work on this model.
That only works on the CX, not the C9 unfortunately.
I have been rocking a 40" 4k that is attached to my standing desk via arm...the PPI is such that it's in a sweet spot and I was thinking of downsizing because I don't know how much I put things in the corners...but that'd mean I'd probably be leaning and squinting a lot more, now that I think about it. But adding an extra 8" seems silly to be that up close to. About how far are you from it, and do you use the corners much? Any simulates monitor borders using software that divides the screen?
I suppose I could wall mount it and move my standing desk back, I just don't know if I want it to come to that, as I like my monitor moving with my height.
I went from a 40" 4K on my desk to the 48". I was already a bit uncomfortable on the 40" (I felt like I wasn't as quick to notice things in competitive shooters because I had to move my head) and moving the 48" to the far back of the desk pretty much matches the 40"; right on the edge of uncomfortable-but-usable. For single player immersive games it's worth it though
Desktop use definitely ends up with wasted space; I find myself moving things to the corner and treating it as a smaller monitor a lot. And the 48CX I'm still getting used to the weird subpixel arrangement which is enough to be bothersome
Hopefully the Gsync and HDMI 2.1 issues get ironed out. Without those I'm not sure the upgrade was worth it
Any other cons? Thought there was a firmware update for that.
As you can see from the last couple of pages, it's hit-and-miss for people. Some say it's fine, some get stutter, some get tearing. I'm on team "having issues" sadly. But definitely sounds fixable in drivers/firmware eventually
Some of my other cons are just minor things not exactly size/display issues. How Windows handles HDR, Plex not handling HDR correctly either, annoying TV pop-ups when turning on the TV or starting games, etc. Nothing that makes me regret the decision, but when I splurged on the TV (European prices are ridiculous) I naively expected to be immediately blown away. But that's not how PC gaming works. Everything is tinkering and adjusting...
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- Jun 10, 2011
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- 441
I found that the stuttering was caused by setting Low Latency Mode to Ultra in NVCP for Dota 2. After setting it to Off, G-SYNC works perfectly with Vsync enabled and fps_max 118. CS: GO doesn't have the same issue with Low Latency Mode.
Additionally, as others have stated, Enable settings for the selected display model must be disabled in the NVCP G-SYNC settings. If this is enabled, it will result in stuttering in all games below the Vsync refresh rate. You can tell when this stuttering occurs by looking at the FreeSync Information screen on the CX (press the green button repeatedly) - the Hz value changes rapidly.
Additionally, as others have stated, Enable settings for the selected display model must be disabled in the NVCP G-SYNC settings. If this is enabled, it will result in stuttering in all games below the Vsync refresh rate. You can tell when this stuttering occurs by looking at the FreeSync Information screen on the CX (press the green button repeatedly) - the Hz value changes rapidly.
Been reading off and on , if wouldn't mind from the experts current situation on these ?
Decided I didn't like the curve on the 38" LG combined with loss of vertical space (used to 4k 60hz for a while now). So sent it back to Costco and going to give the CX 48 another go.
1. Currently have Pascal Titan , am fine with it being 60hz till I get a 3080 , but in misc places have noticed people complaining about high input lag at 60hz ? Anyone running or did run it ok at 60 hz until they got their new card ? Didn't want to get it in and hate it until I got a 3080.
2. Is running at 120hz at 4k doable without issues I've noticed the past few pages if I am fine without HDR etc , just hoping to get full normal color at 120 as can at 60 without a hassle once I get my 3080.
Thanks in advance.
(only other possible thing on the horizon for me is the 43" ASUS with 2.1 HDMI but no concrete dates on it I've found)
Decided I didn't like the curve on the 38" LG combined with loss of vertical space (used to 4k 60hz for a while now). So sent it back to Costco and going to give the CX 48 another go.
1. Currently have Pascal Titan , am fine with it being 60hz till I get a 3080 , but in misc places have noticed people complaining about high input lag at 60hz ? Anyone running or did run it ok at 60 hz until they got their new card ? Didn't want to get it in and hate it until I got a 3080.
2. Is running at 120hz at 4k doable without issues I've noticed the past few pages if I am fine without HDR etc , just hoping to get full normal color at 120 as can at 60 without a hassle once I get my 3080.
Thanks in advance.
(only other possible thing on the horizon for me is the 43" ASUS with 2.1 HDMI but no concrete dates on it I've found)
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- Jun 10, 2011
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- 441
There are no compatibility issues with latest firmware & drivers, apart from having to deselect Enable settings for the selected display model in the NVCP G-SYNC settings.
Many thanks good to know.
Can anyone else confirm?
It might work for some people, but latency mode doesn't fix Gsync for me
Neither does Windows VRR with "Enable settings for the selected display" unchecked
Something is janky with the current firmware, and I'm not the only one on here experiencing the same thing
Would prevent you from using the ports at the back of the display. HDMI 1-3 are on the side but HDMI 4, LAN and optical poke out from the back.
Makeroflostsouls
2[H]4U
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- Jun 4, 2008
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- 2,850
As long as you hit a stud it looks like it would work. The only thing is you can’t slide it left or right to help center it over your desk. Also if you don’t nail level it’s going to bother you. Won’t be level with your desk. The one I got is a full length one but is only 1 inch off the wall. I can still adjust level and slide it around 6-8 inches left to right if I want to move my desk. Which I ended up doing after I had it up. Had to move my computer to the other side due to the glare off the glass side panel. Just depends on what you want.
Yeah, I only need the sideports. The single purpose is usage as a pc/console gaming monitor. The thing that bothers me most is the power cord coming out straight from the back..
I have the luxury of not having to deal with drywalls in my house.
What I am afraid of is exactly what you mentioned though, 0 adjustability. But what I'm really afraid of is the small window for hanging it in the clip. I'm really scared that I might break the panel while trying to hit that..
But with 55" staring at my face on a 65cm deep desk I need every cm of depth I can get haha..
Makeroflostsouls
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2008
- Messages
- 2,850
Here is the one I used Mounting Dream TV Wall Mount TV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P645JGR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_shareYeah, I only need the sideports. The single purpose is usage as a pc/console gaming monitor. The thing that bothers me most is the power cord coming out straight from the back..
I have the luxury of not having to deal with drywalls in my house.
What I am afraid of is exactly what you mentioned though, 0 adjustability. But what I'm really afraid of is the small window for hanging it in the clip. I'm really scared that I might break the panel while trying to hit that..
But with 55" staring at my face on a 65cm deep desk I need every cm of depth I can get haha..
It’s 1.4 inches. For all the added adjustments, it’s worth giving up the inch.
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Didn't work for me, but I'm on the .26 firmware. Only thing that works for me is freesync on in tv settings and fps cap 106.