LG 48CX

Has anyone CX owner tried like a 123hz 4K overclock yet? My C9 has a 63hz overclock (vis CRU) and FPS locked @60hz (via RTSS) from all the recommendations on using G-Sync+V-Sync.

I think the tricky part is you may be getting the Hz but you could be “dropping frames” if the overclock is too much. I don’t believe there’s an easy way to test if this is happening without a 1000fps camera I think? I couldn’t find anything on the 120hz+ overclock yet if it’s safe to do or not.
 
Yeah BFI at high is amazing but unusable to me due to the flicker. I can barely tell low apart from medium but even medium is pretty subtle.

Also I am gonna sacrifice Gsync for 120hz once that adapter arrives because 60hz on the desktop after a almost a year of 120hz with PG27UQ is absolutely miserable.

BFI at 120Hz? I just played about 3 hours and didn't notice any flicker. 60hz would probably flicker like mad. Then again I used to use 120hz Lightboost on an Asus VG248QE quite often back in 2013 so perhaps I'm just not very sensitive to flickering.
 
OK this monitor is awesome!!! I thought the acer x27 was the endgame for monitors, but this CX48 might edge it out!!
I keep switching from 60hz to 120hz. The font on 4:2:0 color is kinda disgusting..anyway to improve it?
Input lag on this is not too shabby, very comparable to the x27.
 
BFI at 120Hz? I just played about 3 hours and didn't notice any flicker. 60hz would probably flicker like mad. Then again I used to use 120hz Lightboost on an Asus VG248QE quite often back in 2013 so perhaps I'm just not very sensitive to flickering.

Oh actually I haven't tried it at 120hz. That would probably eliminate the flicker.

Last time I tried calibrating my C9 with an i1 I got some crazy results so not sure how to setup DisplayCal for an OLED. Gonna give it a go on this CX tomorrow. I think someone mentioned 30 OLED light is 120nits but I'm finding that still too bright and went down to 25. Will see with the meter what's what.
 
4K 120 Hz 4:2:0 is kinda weird because the image quality takes such a drastic hit but 4K 60 Hz 4:2:0 still looks sharp, just with some fringing on text. I wonder if there is something wrong with it.

One of you who has the Club3D adapter, could you test if you see any difference in this behavior with vs without the adapter using HDMI vs DP?
 
OK this monitor is awesome!!! I thought the acer x27 was the endgame for monitors, but this CX48 might edge it out!!
I keep switching from 60hz to 120hz. The font on 4:2:0 color is kinda disgusting..anyway to improve it?
Input lag on this is not too shabby, very comparable to the x27.
Turn off cleartype when using 4:2:0, apart from that, you can use larger scaling - 4:2:0 only looks really really bad on pixel-thin details.
 
4K 120 Hz 4:2:0 is kinda weird because the image quality takes such a drastic hit but 4K 60 Hz 4:2:0 still looks sharp, just with some fringing on text. I wonder if there is something wrong with it.

One of you who has the Club3D adapter, could you test if you see any difference in this behavior with vs without the adapter using HDMI vs DP?
Probably something wrong, 4k 120Hz 4:2:0 looks perfectly fine for me for moving rendered graphics, except for the mentioned fringing (on colored text, black/white text looks normal with cleartype off).
Cleartype simply can not work with reduced color resolution, since it tries to use rgb subpixels for edge smoothing - which is impossible since it doesn't even have single pixel precision for colors in 4:2:0.
 
Ah, monitor stands... For this one I decided to go for a desk mount and managed to find one that's strong enough for the majestic CX48.

Arctic Z1 Pro Gen 3: https://www.arctic.ac/eu_en/z1-pro-gen-3.html
And for the adapter I chose Newstar VESA: https://en.newstar.eu/monitor/vesa-adapter-plates/fpma-vesa400-newstar-vesa-adapter-plate/

This thing is STRONG. But just in case I added a metal plate at the mounting point to give extra support. Center of gravity is not far from the support pole, so there's no need to worry about the load.
 
Probably something wrong, 4k 120Hz 4:2:0 looks perfectly fine for me for moving rendered graphics, except for the mentioned fringing (on colored text, black/white text looks normal with cleartype off).
Cleartype simply can not work with reduced color resolution, since it tries to use rgb subpixels for edge smoothing - which is impossible since it doesn't even have single pixel precision for colors in 4:2:0.

Tried Cleartype off and it made is even nastier. Im still waiting for someone to mount cx48 to a ergotron hx or a humanscale m10 to see if it sags. So far i have it 27 to 36 inch away from me and 100% scaling...its actually not too bad for desktop work.
 
It pains me to say it, but unless RDR2 gets DLSS patched in, running it at 4k much above 60FPS with max/near max settings isn't going to happen even on a 3080ti :( It drops into the 40's at 1440p on a 2080ti...

Tweak the settings. I'm droping into the 40's at 4K on a 2080ti, with a mix of more ultra than high settings.
 
Do you have any examples of this. It does not make sense for it to occur on a pixel perfect display such as OLED. There is no backlight or polarizer to effect uniformity. No reviews have mentioned it. If you are experiencing this, I would have to say it's not the panel causing it. Unless you are refering to white balance uniformity, which can be a problem on OLED, but is a problem on most dsiplay tech. White balace is effected by RGB gamma, but is not a result of gamma alone.
No, it is not uniformity, it is exactly the color shift. I don't why it's not being mentioned more often, I guess this flaw is less bothersome than banding or other OLED flaws. I have read that some people would return the new OLEDs because of the gamma/color shift issue.

It's like a TN, but less extreme. Like I said, to give you an example, - moving NV CP around makes it change the color from red to blue tint depending on how far from the center you position it on the screen. (given that you view of the display is centered. If you move to the right, then the red tint will be on the right side and the rest of the display will have bluish tint.)

Going back to a good IPS is a definite upgrade in this regard.

Yeah, you don't notice it in movies or games much, but it is quite apparent in desktop use. One of the reasons why OLED is considered an outstanding entertainment display.
 
Tried Cleartype off and it made is even nastier. Im still waiting for someone to mount cx48 to a ergotron hx or a humanscale m10 to see if it sags. So far i have it 27 to 36 inch away from me and 100% scaling...its actually not too bad for desktop work.

I think either of those will work since my Multibrackets arm works as well. I really had to crank its tilt screws but much less so than with the Samsung CRG9. The CX 48 probably balances a bit better. You will need a VESA 100x100 to 300x200 adapter though and the arm should go pretty low since the mounting point is at the bottom of the display rather than in the center.

Wall mount is still better because with a monitor arm you are limited by the desk depth on how much you can push the display out. For me when the stand is offset, the display is still so wide that I can't push it past the table depth because the display will hit the stand where it is attached to the table.
 
Tried Cleartype off and it made is even nastier. Im still waiting for someone to mount cx48 to a ergotron hx or a humanscale m10 to see if it sags. So far i have it 27 to 36 inch away from me and 100% scaling...its actually not too bad for desktop work.
Are you sure you turned cleartype off? in windows you need to uncheck the box and still go trough all next-next-next-finish steps to turn it off.
The text on this site, or in notepad should look perfectly normal, for example, since it is white on gray/black on white.
The headers saying "today at 3:06am" that are white on red, should mess up a bit but still be prefectly readable.

It's hard to take a representative picture, but something like this is what 4:2:0 120Hz should look like (you shouldn't be able to tell in graphics unless you lean in and inspect fine details ,white/black/gray text should look normal, colored text/text on color should look fringy):
20200709_111328.jpg
 
No, it is not uniformity, it is exactly the color shift. I don't why it's not being mentioned more often, I guess this flaw is less bothersome than banding or other OLED flaws. I have read that some people would return the new OLEDs because of the gamma/color shift issue.

It's like a TN, but less extreme. Like I said, to give you an example, - moving NV CP around makes it change the color from red to blue tint depending on how far from the center you position it on the screen. (given that you view of the display is centered. If you move to the right, then the red tint will be on the right side and the rest of the display will have bluish tint.)

Going back to a good IPS is a definite upgrade in this regard.

Yeah, you don't notice it in movies or games much, but it is quite apparent in desktop use. One of the reasons why OLED is considered an outstanding entertainment display.

I tried moving a white background website around on MacOS and just can't see the issue you describe. But then again I had to look at test pictures to see it on my VA Samsung CRG9, it was just not something that was an issue in actual use.
 
I tried moving a white background website around on MacOS and just can't see the issue you describe. But then again I had to look at test pictures to see it on my VA Samsung CRG9, it was just not something that was an issue in actual use.
Don't believe me, the Murzilka, maybe you would believe this guy (just googled it for you):
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-o...ral/3060906-lg-65-c9-oled-hands-review-3.html
He says exactly what I say - the center has a warmer tone, and I had never read that thread before. I just know that OLEDs have color shift.
 
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Wall mount is still better because with a monitor arm you are limited by the desk depth on how much you can push the display out. For me when the stand is offset, the display is still so wide that I can't push it past the table depth because the display will hit the stand where it is attached to the table.

I just took measurements: With the Arctic arm I mentioned above, the CX display surface is about 160mm from the wall behind the desk. I have it slightly tilted back though. The bottom part of the display is 180mm from the wall. I could push it maybe 2cm further, but the base's USB-hub is getting in the way, since I have the display only about 15mm above the table surface.
I wouldn't expect much less distance with a wall-mounted arm.
 
I just took measurements: With the Arctic arm I mentioned above, the CX display surface is about 160mm from the wall behind the desk. I have it slightly tilted back though. The bottom part of the display is 180mm from the wall. I could push it maybe 2cm further, but the base's USB-hub is getting in the way, since I have the display only about 15mm above the table surface.
I wouldn't expect much less distance with a wall-mounted arm.

The difference is mainly that with a wall mount you can increase viewing distance by moving your desk away from the wall rather than having to use a deeper desk.
 
Sure.




Looking at it again I think this issue has nothing to do with LG's OLED but instead it's a gsync issue itself. I have played game after game after game on my CX and there has been absolutely zero "brightening of near black objects". None. This weird flickering I've encountered in the Witcher 3 before on an older gsync monitor of mine so I'm positive this is just a gsync problem with this game in particular.


Does anyone else have issues with the Gsync flickering in The Witcher 3? I really hope this isn't a widespread issue as I started looking into OLEDs after the X35/PG35VQ exhibited similar issues in games, particularly The Witcher 3. The flickering issues there have been fixed via firmware, but I'm hoping I would not have to wait for LG to fix this on the CX if this is a widespread issue. Ugh.
 
I mentioned and asked this about BFI awhile back after Vega mentioned having poor results when not using 120fps minimum with BFI. I'm quoting it again here just to make sure people are aware that OLED BFI isn't necessarily tied to the frame rate like a LCD backlight's 1:1 strobe:frame since it uses rolling scan. Therefore it's not necessarily as easy to figure out exacely what low and medium BFI strobe rates and potentially fractional refreshes are doing in relation to 60fpsHz and 120fpsHz.

120fps of frames on a 120hz monitor already cuts the blur by 50% (and doubles the motion definition/smoothness/path articulation) compared to 60fps-hz even before BFI is added so keeping a 120fps minimum itself is probably a big difference as a starting point in relation to what the end result of the experience would be with (medium) BFI active.

per blurbuster.com site and forums, from mark R:
" , strobing on most OLEDs are almost always rolling-scan strobe (some exceptions apply, as some panels are designed differently OLED transistors can be preconfigured in scanout refresh, and then a illumination voltage does a global illumination at the end). "

"rolling strobe on OLED can be fractional refreshes, so OLED BFI can actually be arbitrary lengths unrelated to refresh cycle length. Since the off-pass can chase behind the on-pass simultaneously on the same screen at an arbitrary distance"

"Black duty cycle is independent of refresh rate. However, percentage of black duty cycle is directly proportional to blur reduction (at the same (any) refresh rate). i.e. 75% of the time black = 75% blur reduction. Or from the visible frame perspective: Twice as long frame visibility translates to twice the motion blur.

Does not matter if full strobe or rolling scan, as it is per-pixel duty cycle. "

" That said, non-global illumination can cause artifacts (e.g. skewing during scan of any CRT, OLED (including strobed and nonstrobed rolling scans) or nonstrobed LCD "


What settings are you using exactly? I'm assuming you mean you are playing a non demanding game or stripping a game's settings bare at least to the point where you can get 120fps or better minimum - so that your frame rate isn't varying. While the BFI is "independent" of the refresh rate the frame rate, the solid BFI rate would always be acting in concert with a now solid frame rate in that case. Also, 120fps of frames on a 120hz monitor already cuts the blur by 50% compared to 60fps-hz even before BFI is added so that could be a big difference as a starting point itself.

What happened when you were using variable frame rates / non-120fps minimums? Were you getting artifacts? What made your results "poor" ?
<.... end Quote...>
 
No, it is not uniformity, it is exactly the color shift. I don't why it's not being mentioned more often, I guess this flaw is less bothersome than banding or other OLED flaws. I have read that some people would return the new OLEDs because of the gamma/color shift issue.

It's like a TN, but less extreme. Like I said, to give you an example, - moving NV CP around makes it change the color from red to blue tint depending on how far from the center you position it on the screen. (given that you view of the display is centered. If you move to the right, then the red tint will be on the right side and the rest of the display will have bluish tint.)

Going back to a good IPS is a definite upgrade in this regard.

Yeah, you don't notice it in movies or games much, but it is quite apparent in desktop use. One of the reasons why OLED is considered an outstanding entertainment display.

Curious how close you are sitting and from what angle left/right and what viewing angle vs a band across the middle (higher/lower?) ??

Have you tried 444 chroma 60hz ? Are you running native rez off of a 18gbps HDMI cable rather than that dp adapter?

Have you checked to see if your surface layer on the screen is wonky , warped in relation to wonky bezel straighness/curvature?

What is your ambient lighting situation and windows in the room ~ direct in indirect light sources (including other monitors and screens) ??

Are you running ABL avoiding settings of some kind? What input icon and viewing mode are you using?

Any other altered/personalized settings?

Just curious so we are all on the same page.
 
The difference is mainly that with a wall mount you can increase viewing distance by moving your desk away from the wall rather than having to use a deeper desk.

With one of those thin/flat metal spine or metal pole stands with the foot or wheels on the floor you can move that stand with what is essentially a wall mount bracket at the top of it anywhere you want too, even if you want it where you would otherwise have mounted it to a wall for now.

Right now I'm using a narrow bench style desk for mounting monitor(s) on and I'm using a separate semi-circle/kidney bean/xbox-controller shaped desk on caster wheels as my "command center"/control/peripheral desk.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

Some floor stands and desk mount stands from earlier in the thread. Personally I'm all about modularity.

The floor stands have very high weight capacities, I think in the neighborhood of 55 lbs if I remember correctly.

N6oCXNV.png

NSlbHdh.gif

n290pWr.png

Gigantic ergotron LX HD arm spec'd ~ 30lb (48CX is 33 lb will probably work)
SGIGgH8.png
 
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Curious how close you are sitting and from what angle left/right and what viewing angle vs a band across the middle (higher/lower?) ??

Have you tried 444 chroma 60hz ? Are you running native rez off of a 18gbps HDMI cable rather than that dp adapter?

Have you checked to see if your surface layer on the screen is wonky , warped in relation to wonky bezel straighness/curvature?

What is your ambient lighting situation and windows in the room ~ direct in indirect light sources (including other monitors and screens) ??

Are you running ABL avoiding settings of some kind? What input icon and viewing mode are you using?

Any other altered/personalized settings?

Just curious so we are all on the same page.
It's the color filter that is causing uniformity issues. Mishandling the TV when maneuvering it can make it worse because of how thin it is. LG OLED do have a "pillaring" issue, though, as described in the HDTV Test video posted earlier in the thread comparing it to QLED. Neither should be an issue if viewing from a proper distance while consuming media (video, movies, games).
 
RGot it set up today side by side with my Dell 3818dw, of course color and contrast are much better. But the hue shift issue is definitely present from a 4' viewing distance. On grey backgrounds like Gmail default theme with grey stripes, the center has a reddish hue and becomes blue to the edges. I suspected as much since my Tab S6 has the same issue when you move the screen from end to another and it's only a 10.5 inch screen.

Look at the color shift angles for OLEDs here , most have a hue/color shift around 30 degrees vs 60 for the IPS screens.

https://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/picture-quality/viewing-angle
 
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Curious how close you are sitting and from what angle left/right and what viewing angle vs a band across the middle (higher/lower?) ??

Have you tried 444 chroma 60hz ? Are you running native rez off of a 18gbps HDMI cable rather than that dp adapter?

Have you checked to see if your surface layer on the screen is wonky , warped in relation to wonky bezel straighness/curvature?

What is your ambient lighting situation and windows in the room ~ direct in indirect light sources (including other monitors and screens) ??

Are you running ABL avoiding settings of some kind? What input icon and viewing mode are you using?

Any other altered/personalized settings?

Just curious so we are all on the same page.
That's way too many questions for Murzilka. But:
1. Never went below 4:4:4, unless for 4K HDR 4:2:0 24fps Blu-Ray galore. Always at native 4K 60hz, PC input etc. <- although this has nothing to do with how OLEDs shift colors depending on the angle of view.
2. nothing is wonky, just normal oled colorshift.
3. no direct light into display. although it is completely unrelated.
4. Lightest possible ABL is enabled in the frimware as by default. also unrelated question to the oled's color shift
5. a lot of altered\personilized settings. not related much either. I suppose that running some colder white point, like, closer to 7000K might decrease the effect of the color shift, since the blue tint will be all over the display, and it will be less apparent as it changes tonality, depending on the viewing angle.

I'd just want to clarify - I've been running this OLED as a PC monitor for the 3 past years, went through 1 panel replacement last year, and I definitely know wtf I am talking about when I'm saying that OLEDs have the annoying colorshift. On top of that, I provided a link to the AVS forum, where people discuss exactly the OLEDs colorshift problem, talking about the newer C9 panels.

Forgot to add my typical viewing distance ~140cm. (Can't wait to shorten it by buying a normal PC monitor.)
 
I noticed the color shift the second I opened a white browser page on my C8 years ago. It's almost identical to the "VA Cone" in that there's a circular hot spot where everything is accurate and beyond that there's blue tint.

It annoyed the hell out of me for a while but 2 generations of OLED later now getting use to it and the fact that 99% of my desktop use is in dark/black themed stuff and for me personally it's a non issue. I basically never notice it while gaming because I'm busy gaming.

A lot of it has to do with seating distance too. I imagine many sit way too close and this off angle blue tint would be super annoying.
 
It's almost identical to the "VA Cone" in that there's a circular hot spot where everything is accurate and beyond that there's blue tint.
Yeah exactly. Very VA-like. I just didn't want to make this comparison to avoid igniting even greater storm. It looks almost exactly like VA gaming displays I used to run.
 
I never noticed it until today when I did a full screen grey fill in MS Paint and looked for it. But I never had major issues with the VA cone effect, either.

The only thing that I run full screen are games, and I have never noticed it there, nor during normal desktop use. So to me, it's a total non-issue. Could be for some; I suspect this is one of those things like the VA cone, black crush, grey IPS "blacks", PWM flicker etc. that bother some people and not others.

Good to know I guess, but I'd never noticed it until today when specifically looking for it. To me this thing outclasses everything else I've used on every other level that even if I noticed it, I'm not sure I'd care and certainly wouldn't go back to any other display tech because of it.
 
I never noticed it until today when I did a full screen grey fill in MS Paint and looked for it. But I never had major issues with the VA cone effect, either.

The only thing that I run full screen are games, and I have never noticed it there, nor during normal desktop use. So to me, it's a total non-issue. Could be for some; I suspect this is one of those things like the VA cone, black crush, grey IPS "blacks", PWM flicker etc. that bother some people and not others.

Good to know I guess, but I'd never noticed it until today when specifically looking for it. To me this thing outclasses everything else I've used on every other level that even if I noticed it, I'm not sure I'd care and certainly wouldn't go back to any other display tech because of it.

I was one of those individuals who was personally bothered by the VA cone effect but never really noticed it with OLEDs. I do only own large OLEDs though and don't sit particularly close so that could certainly be contributing.
 
I'll have to think hard before I decide to keep this, uniformity has been a big thing for me when it comes to displays. Though if they did make smaller OLED screens around 34-43" eventually , the hue shift would be much less prominent.
 
Yeah exactly. Very VA-like. I just didn't want to make this comparison to avoid igniting even greater storm. It looks almost exactly like VA gaming displays I used to run.
Yep but apparently the cause is different: it's gamma shift on VA vs hue shift on OLED though end result looks markedly similar.
 
I'm just saying that the TV's cons are greatly outweighed by it's pros. I'll take the blue tint over IPS glow/light bleed/blooming/slow pixel response all day.

And I might be seeing it less because I'm running a black wallpaper with the dark theme in every/any app that supports it. Seems like the effect is more pronounced on white/light backgrounds and windows. For instance I have an OWA window up now that's probably roughly the size of a 32" monitor. It's the default white theme since they haven't brought the dark theme to Exchange OWA yet. I can...sort of kind of see it if I look for it...but when actually working and composing emails it's simply out of sight, out of mind. So for me it's not even something that I really notice even under scenarios where it's most likely to be noticed. YMMV and what works for me might not work for thee, but for balance it's good to have different perspectives I suppose.
 
One con of the the cx48 is that its in the glossy side...kinda annoying when using as a desktop.

That's a massive plus for me, nice crisp clean display. Contrast that to the nasty antiglare lg used to used on its screens that scattered the light like you were looking through one of those frosted shower walls.

So long as your room lighting is not out of control, most people should be fine, though for some, the possibility of an errant reflection of themselves is too much of a risk to bare.
 
Yep but apparently the cause is different: it's gamma shift on VA vs hue shift on OLED though end result looks markedly similar.
I guess! The color changes as you look at it at different angles. It's probably hue, never dug this matter.

I also would like to add, that, despite the color shift, the 4K HDR OLED gaming, even at 60hz, is out of this word. The colorshift will most likely never bother you in that activity.
 
One thing to note is that when it comes to viewing angles; OLED Is great with regard to viewing angle color washout, viewing angle brightness, viewing angle black level raise, and viewing angle gamma shift. Only one metric; viewing angle color shift is OLED mediocre, but still falls in the top 50% of tested displays.

IMO focusing on that one metric is a bit nitpicky when overall OLED viewing angles are the best. Way better than VA.
 
I may decide to keep mine and my near perfect 3818DW may be in the FS section soon. Just I know with this issue it won't be a slam dunk for me as I'd initially expected. Good thing I just put it on a side table to test first, setting up my 3818dw with a million cables going into it is a PITA.
 
That's way too many questions for Murzilka. But:
1. Never went below 4:4:4, unless for 4K HDR 4:2:0 24fps Blu-Ray galore. Always at native 4K 60hz, PC input etc. <- although this has nothing to do with how OLEDs shift colors depending on the angle of view.
2. nothing is wonky, just normal oled colorshift.
3. no direct light into display. although it is completely unrelated.
4. Lightest possible ABL is enabled in the frimware as by default. also unrelated question to the oled's color shift
5. a lot of altered\personilized settings. not related much either. I suppose that running some colder white point, like, closer to 7000K might decrease the effect of the color shift, since the blue tint will be all over the display, and it will be less apparent as it changes tonality, depending on the viewing angle.

I'd just want to clarify - I've been running this OLED as a PC monitor for the 3 past years, went through 1 panel replacement last year, and I definitely know wtf I am talking about when I'm saying that OLEDs have the annoying colorshift. On top of that, I provided a link to the AVS forum, where people discuss exactly the OLEDs colorshift problem, talking about the newer C9 panels.

Forgot to add my typical viewing distance ~140cm. (Can't wait to shorten it by buying a normal PC monitor.)

Thanks for taking the time to answer and eliminate variables. :D
 
Murzilka is right. There is some kind of hue shifting going on. I've even noticed it on my phones (currently a Galaxy S20+, previously a Galaxy S9+). But as a guy who does not use his CX as a desktop monitor and have been using TN panels since forever, the issue doesn't bother me at all. Doesn't mean it's not there, it's just that it doesn't me personally.
 
So dumb question, but how do I play 4k hdr mkv files onto the tv?

h.265 encoding which seems to not be supported by the tv and many streaming devices. dlna would not send it over from pc. I tried plex and it seemed to not have a clue what the videos were.

Is there a dedicated streaming box that can access the files on my pc and do the decoding on the device itself, then just send the image info via hdmi to the tv?

Latest Rokus? Nvidia shield? Something without needing special hardware?
 
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