LG 48CX

Morkai

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 10, 2011
Messages
426
You didn't get washed out color when you turned on HDR in windows? What TV do you have? C9 or CX?
The colors shouldn't be washed out. I think it's some sort of semi-rare windows configuration error or bug.
Back when PG27UQ was new and people were discussing early windows/game HDR, some people complained about washed out colors in hdr, but it never happened to me (nor most people).
About one year later, something bugged out and i had very washed out colors in windows and games, rebooted, gone. happened twice in over two years to me, while others seemed to have it permanently.
I can't recall anyone ever figuring out exactly what the problem was, so the best to do is clean driver install, uninstall any non-essential display/driver related stuff, worst case reinstall/reset windows.
 

PittyH

n00b
Joined
Jul 3, 2020
Messages
34
In-game or other resolution changes (even some on boot-up) cause the panel to report loss of signal and the only way to recover is to unplug both the aux USB power source and DP connector for the adapter. Meh.

Does anyone know the cause of active adapter signal loss?
You'd think someone would've done a study on it or something. because it's been around for years.

What would happen if you deleted all the ridiculous resolutions from the edid (such as 720p) apart from windows boot resolution, and 4k120? maybe leave other resolutions you know would work?

Tried doing a clean install of nvidia drivers? and maybe reset tv settings?
 
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Perscitus

n00b
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
37
Not even sure what you are talking about. You want "RGB Full" not 4:4:4. RGB-Full is full color and literally the perfect way to send a signal to the display as it doesn't deal with chroma nonsense.

Not true. The GPU is outputting Displayport 1.4, that's all it cares about and that is why 10bit RGB full works as the guy demonstrated above. The GPU doesn't care what the adapter does on the HDMI side.
Thanks Vega. Based on your reply, you seem fairly sure you know what I'm talking about. In that case - great - the adapter is still useless given how it handles (doesnt) resolution switching, scaling, etc. Sad.

4K @ 120Hz and @10bpp or @12bpp, works fine, with BFI (TruMotion), even with HDR on.... until the resolution needs to switch to something more archaic (say 1650x1050, 1280×720, 1024x768, etc.) No VRR of course at the DP1.4 DSC modes.
 

kasakka

2[H]4U
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
2,100
Sounds like the adapter might have some handshake issues. Since the display still shows up as it always did, the EDID is probably passed as is but what happens between the GPU and adapter might fuck things up.

Does using GPU scaling change things in any way? In theory at least this should make most lower resolutions still output at 4K as it's the GPU scaling the image. But exclusive fullscreen in games probably throws some spanners into those works.

Does booting the PC cause problems? Because BIOS/UEFI will be usually at a lower res and then you get to Windows and go full res.

When the adapter gives a blank screen, does power cycling just the adapter fix the problem? E.g. the game does not crash by doing this?
 

jincuteguy

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
407
Sounds like the adapter might have some handshake issues. Since the display still shows up as it always did, the EDID is probably passed as is but what happens between the GPU and adapter might fuck things up.

Does using GPU scaling change things in any way? In theory at least this should make most lower resolutions still output at 4K as it's the GPU scaling the image. But exclusive fullscreen in games probably throws some spanners into those works.

Does booting the PC cause problems? Because BIOS/UEFI will be usually at a lower res and then you get to Windows and go full res.

When the adapter gives a blank screen, does power cycling just the adapter fix the problem? E.g. the game does not crash by doing this?

Yes booting from BIOS to desktop will caused blank / black screen, and I have to unplug the HDMI from TV and plug it back in.
 

jincuteguy

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
407
I ordered the Club 3D HDMI cable, it should get here tomorrow 7/19. I will let you guys know if that will work better with the Adapter since they're both from Club 3D.
 

kasakka

2[H]4U
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
2,100
I ordered the Club 3D HDMI cable, it should get here tomorrow 7/19. I will let you guys know if that will work better with the Adapter since they're both from Club 3D.

Is it the "10K" one? 1 or 2m? I was wondering if that will perform any better. Have you contacted Club3D support about these issues yet?

Yes booting from BIOS to desktop will caused blank / black screen, and I have to unplug the HDMI from TV and plug it back in.

That really sucks. So just power cycling the adapter by pulling the USB plug and reinserting does not do the trick? Does switching inputs (say HDMI 1 connected to adapter, HDMI 2 to GPU with a HDMI 2.0 cable directly) do anything?

Makes you really wonder if Club3D have even properly tested this thing or just put it out there unfinished just so they can get some purchases before new GPUs arrive...
 

kalston

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Mar 10, 2011
Messages
1,259
My OLED Light slider is already at 100

You misunderstood. "OLED light" slider simply adjusts the nits of the display, no impact on colours.

But the "brightness" slider impacts colours, kinda like the "contrast" one does. I don't know if that your issue but you can try playing with those.
 

antonlissone

Weaksauce
Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
80
Is it the "10K" one? 1 or 2m? I was wondering if that will perform any better. Have you contacted Club3D support about these issues yet?



That really sucks. So just power cycling the adapter by pulling the USB plug and reinserting does not do the trick? Does switching inputs (say HDMI 1 connected to adapter, HDMI 2 to GPU with a HDMI 2.0 cable directly) do anything?

Makes you really wonder if Club3D have even properly tested this thing or just put it out there unfinished just so they can get some purchases before new GPUs arrive...

Ive contacted club3d multiple times. They’re just ignoring me...
 

madpistol

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 17, 2020
Messages
465
Last night, I did a comparison between my CX and Q90R using some high contrast videos on youtube.

The Q90R gets blindingly bright, but if you set the brightness to equal between the CX and Q90R, the CX stomps all over the Q90R. While I think the FALD implementation on the Q90R is still one of the best in the industry, it just doesn't compares to the pixel-accurate lighting of OLED and the CX. If you look straight on, it's very difficult to see the individual backlight zones on the Q90R. However, if you get to a scene that has a lot of light points on a black background, and look at it off center, it becomes extremely obvious where the backlights are and what they're doing. For gaming, the difference is crazy as well. Everything just punches on the OLED, but it all seems muted on the Q90R. Motion is fine on the Q90R, but for high framerate content, the CX is definitely cleaner.

I honestly think that the ONLY reason people should consider QD-LED tech now is because they want something super bright, or they're just scared of burn-in. I've been beating the snot out of my CX since I got it a few months ago, and so far it's been fine. However, I am concerned that the panel being on as much as it has will lead to premature degradation of the organic substrate in some of the pixels. I continue to keep the OLED Light between 0-30 except for HDR content on youtube/movies, where I allow it to be 100. SDR is the norm for my content, though.

Otherwise, OLED is the better technology. Full stop.
 

Perscitus

n00b
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
37
Same experience here in terms of a. contacting Club3D and b. plug/unplug and power cycle.

A real shame as when it works (static resolution, watching 4K or 4K HDR x264 or x265 content or playing a game that doesnt mess with exclusive fullscreen and obeys 4K HDR with BFI @120Hz @12bpp full RGB) - the results are glorious.

Oh well, RTX3xxx better not dumb down the HDMI2.1 support (the rumoured new 12-pin connector is enough of a headache with an old modular PSU).
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
Joined
Aug 7, 2004
Messages
16,163
Last night, I did a comparison between my CX and Q90R using some high contrast videos on youtube.

The Q90R gets blindingly bright, but if you set the brightness to equal between the CX and Q90R, the CX stomps all over the Q90R. While I think the FALD implementation on the Q90R is still one of the best in the industry, it just doesn't compares to the pixel-accurate lighting of OLED and the CX. If you look straight on, it's very difficult to see the individual backlight zones on the Q90R. However, if you get to a scene that has a lot of light points on a black background, and look at it off center, it becomes extremely obvious where the backlights are and what they're doing. For gaming, the difference is crazy as well. Everything just punches on the OLED, but it all seems muted on the Q90R. Motion is fine on the Q90R, but for high framerate content, the CX is definitely cleaner.

I honestly think that the ONLY reason people should consider QD-LED tech now is because they want something super bright, or they're just scared of burn-in. I've been beating the snot out of my CX since I got it a few months ago, and so far it's been fine. However, I am concerned that the panel being on as much as it has will lead to premature degradation of the organic substrate in some of the pixels. I continue to keep the OLED Light between 0-30 except for HDR content on youtube/movies, where I allow it to be 100. SDR is the norm for my content, though.

Otherwise, OLED is the better technology. Full stop.

If it eases your mind at all, I owned (and still do) my B7 for over two and a half years. For the last year and a half, before I got my CX, I worked from home and used it as my primary monitor for all things and it would usually be on for 8-10 hours a day, if not more (if I decided to game on it after work). When the CX arrived and I took the B7 down, it was still just as bright and beautiful as ever. Honestly, outside of some crazy scenario like running it 20 hours a day on an OLED light setting of 100, I wouldn’t worry about it. By the time you notice any degradation, there will be something better available (even if it’s a future iteration of OLED) and I would have no problem buying another one at that time because I am NOT going back to LCD/LED.
 

madpistol

Limp Gawd
Joined
May 17, 2020
Messages
465
If it eases your mind at all, I owned (and still do) my B7 for over two and a half years. For the last year and a half, before I got my CX, I worked from home and used it as my primary monitor for all things and it would usually be on for 8-10 hours a day, if not more (if I decided to game on it after work). When the CX arrived and I took the B7 down, it was still just as bright and beautiful as ever. Honestly, outside of some crazy scenario like running it 20 hours a day on an OLED light setting of 100, I wouldn’t worry about it. By the time you notice any degradation, there will be something better available (even if it’s a future iteration of OLED) and I would have no problem buying another one at that time because I am NOT going back to LCD/LED.

Part of the reason I bought a 2 year warranty from Best Buy is because of this. I thought about buying the 5-year warranty, but my tastes change so frequently that I will more than likely have moved on to something better by then. If I can get 2 years worth of use out of this, I will be happy. At that point, I will be more than willing to buy whatever is the comparable tech to OLED at that time.

OLED has set the bar stupidly high when it comes to picture quality and gaming tech. It can only get better from here.
 

caffix

Weaksauce
Joined
Nov 13, 2014
Messages
64
So has anyone attempted to, or successfully managed to, turn off the ABL (automatic brightness limiter)?

I'd like to try it but equally I don't want to waste money or destroy my lovely TV :)
 

Murzilka

Gawd
Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Messages
898
So has anyone attempted to, or successfully managed to, turn off the ABL (automatic brightness limiter)?

I'd like to try it but equally I don't want to waste money or destroy my lovely TV :)
You don't want to turn the ABL off completely. It protects the panel from all sorts of damage including burn-in. I read somewhere that someone talked to the LG engineer about it, and was told that ABL is the core feature of the OLED panel, which is highly not recommended to disable. Without it, the panel will deteriorate very quickly.
So, disable it from the menu, but don't disable it from the factory menu, as in - completely.
So, OLED = ABL. Currently, at least.
 
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MistaSparkul

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
1,621
Rather than trying to make your OLED brighter, it's better to make your environment darker. If you don't want low ambient light period then get another display to use as a work horse or just take the risk with running OLED at it's max allowed brightness. ABL isn't going away any time soon, if ever. Better to just get used to it and make adjustments, many people already had to make adjustments to their desk to fit on now make some lighting adjustments if needed.
 

obs

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Nov 4, 2002
Messages
4,655
I am pretty sure you can turn off ABL in the service menu but as said, you likely wouldn’t want to. I only do it during calibration.
 

wooj

Limp Gawd
Joined
Nov 27, 2006
Messages
384
For anyone interested, amazon is selling the 48 cx at 1499 with the LG PL5 Boombox promo (msrp 130 dollars). I was looking to wait for a good deal but took this option.
 

MistaSparkul

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Jul 5, 2012
Messages
1,621
Sweet Baby Monkey Death, Halo 3 Multiplayer on PC is seriously amazeballz @ 4k120 BFI....GLACK GLACK!!!

I really wish LG could come up with a way to do BFI-SYNC. Asus managed to get ELMB-SYNC working without any brightness fluctuations with varying frame rates. Just a damn shame it had asstastic crosstalk and was unuseable, but a working BFI-SYNC OLED with no brightness fluctuations would be THE TITS!
 

l88bastard

2[H]4U
Joined
Oct 25, 2009
Messages
2,919
I really wish LG could come up with a way to do BFI-SYNC. Asus managed to get ELMB-SYNC working without any brightness fluctuations with varying frame rates. Just a damn shame it had asstastic crosstalk and was unuseable, but a working BFI-SYNC OLED with no brightness fluctuations would be THE TITS!

Agree....maybe the 2021 models will have it. Hopefully, we are not living in Fallout 5 "The Real World" by then.
 

tunatime

Well...OK
Joined
Sep 15, 2011
Messages
4,268
So pass on the adaptor for a c9? Was just about to order o e for 4k120 till I saw everyone having issues
 

Geezus

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 9, 2018
Messages
303
I might just have to make a new thread on this, but this kinda on topic with OLED and high res at high refresh talk...

I used to hook up my LG B9 to Gigabyte Aero 15x w/ a 1070 directly via hdmi and run at 2K@120hz (I like it better than 4K@60hz). No problem. So I got a new sound bar today (Sony HT-NT5), and I am hooking up the TV and Soundbar using ARC, then plugging my laptop into one of the other non ARC hdmi ports in the sound bar.

I can't get 1440p@120hz to work anymore. I checked to make sure UHD was turned on. I have not changed anything on the sound bar menu part or anything so everything is default. I'm not really sure where to start.

I have only tried these settings using RGB and not any chroma.

Should I be able to get 1440p using Laptop > Soundbar > TV?

Is there a setting I'm missing or something? Any ideas?
 
Joined
Aug 6, 2006
Messages
972
I really think we need to start a "What settings are you using" thread. Display settings, picture mode, etc. It would be cool to see what setups and settings others are using for browsing, gaming and maybe movies.
 

l88bastard

2[H]4U
Joined
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Messages
2,919
So pass on the adaptor for a c9? Was just about to order o e for 4k120 till I saw everyone having issues

Main rig is a 2080ti + 48cx
Pron rig is a Titan Pascal + C9

I was supposed to get the adapter delivered today but USPS screwed me.
usPOS.jpg
Amazing, since I live in a condo and was home. All USPS had to do was ring my door buzzer like
they have done the other million times they delivered a package.

But that is nothing, look at the shipping HELL which has become the first 48CX I was supposed to have
received from Beach Camera Via Fedex: To give some context, Fedex lost this 48cx on a Friday two weeks ago, so I ended up buying a second one locally from Brandsmart on Saturday, then on Tuesday Fedex magically "found it" but I told them to RETURN TO SENDER.

However, Fedex apparently has water on the brain and has attempted to deliver it to me THREE times since! No matter how many times I or beach camera call them and explain to them they need to return it to sender.....currently it is back at the local pompano beach warehouse...I wonder if they will go for attempt #4 or if they will finally send it back to New Jersey.
FedPOS.jpg
 
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Dahkoht

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 2, 2014
Messages
450
Just pulled the trigger on this from Costco with the 90 day return policy and free extended warranty at the moment for 1449.

I've currently got a BenQ 32 been running for couple years at 60hz on a Titan Pascal and will be building a new rig once the new Nvidia series comes out

In the meantime , it's going to be purely for gaming btw , what's the best/general settings I need to setup for 4:4:4 at 60hz with least input lag ? Figured someone here might be in the same boat and running it at 60hz for gaming atm too.
 
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Vega

Supreme [H]ardness
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Oct 12, 2004
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6,558
I might just have to make a new thread on this, but this kinda on topic with OLED and high res at high refresh talk...

I used to hook up my LG B9 to Gigabyte Aero 15x w/ a 1070 directly via hdmi and run at 2K@120hz (I like it better than 4K@60hz). No problem. So I got a new sound bar today (Sony HT-NT5), and I am hooking up the TV and Soundbar using ARC, then plugging my laptop into one of the other non ARC hdmi ports in the sound bar.

I can't get 1440p@120hz to work anymore. I checked to make sure UHD was turned on. I have not changed anything on the sound bar menu part or anything so everything is default. I'm not really sure where to start.

I have only tried these settings using RGB and not any chroma.

Should I be able to get 1440p using Laptop > Soundbar > TV?

Is there a setting I'm missing or something? Any ideas?

No of course not. Some random sound bar isn't going to have an HDMI 2.1 chip in it.
 
Joined
Jun 4, 2008
Messages
2,738
I might just have to make a new thread on this, but this kinda on topic with OLED and high res at high refresh talk...

I used to hook up my LG B9 to Gigabyte Aero 15x w/ a 1070 directly via hdmi and run at 2K@120hz (I like it better than 4K@60hz). No problem. So I got a new sound bar today (Sony HT-NT5), and I am hooking up the TV and Soundbar using ARC, then plugging my laptop into one of the other non ARC hdmi ports in the sound bar.

I can't get 1440p@120hz to work anymore. I checked to make sure UHD was turned on. I have not changed anything on the sound bar menu part or anything so everything is default. I'm not really sure where to start.

I have only tried these settings using RGB and not any chroma.

Should I be able to get 1440p using Laptop > Soundbar > TV?

Is there a setting I'm missing or something? Any ideas?


You should be able to run the sound bar off optical or arc and plug your laptop directly to the TV. Just have the tv send the sound to the sound bar. Like stated above the sound bar is going to have a crappy hdmi pass through. When I setup sound bars for customers I always just run an hdmi from the Arc hdmi to the bar. Never run anything through the bar it’s self.
 
Last edited:

mirkendargen

Limp Gawd
Joined
Dec 29, 2006
Messages
321
I might just have to make a new thread on this, but this kinda on topic with OLED and high res at high refresh talk...

I used to hook up my LG B9 to Gigabyte Aero 15x w/ a 1070 directly via hdmi and run at 2K@120hz (I like it better than 4K@60hz). No problem. So I got a new sound bar today (Sony HT-NT5), and I am hooking up the TV and Soundbar using ARC, then plugging my laptop into one of the other non ARC hdmi ports in the sound bar.

I can't get 1440p@120hz to work anymore. I checked to make sure UHD was turned on. I have not changed anything on the sound bar menu part or anything so everything is default. I'm not really sure where to start.

I have only tried these settings using RGB and not any chroma.

Should I be able to get 1440p using Laptop > Soundbar > TV?

Is there a setting I'm missing or something? Any ideas?


If you're using ARC to the soundbar, why are you plugging the laptop into the sound bar instead of the TV...?
 

Rkele

n00b
Joined
Jun 9, 2020
Messages
21
I really think we need to start a "What settings are you using" thread. Display settings, picture mode, etc. It would be cool to see what setups and settings others are using for browsing, gaming and maybe movies.
There are posts about optimized settings buried somewhere in this thread, I think...
We also need a "CAC-1085"-thread and "I don't exactly own a CX, but I know stuff"-thread :D
 

tunatime

Well...OK
Joined
Sep 15, 2011
Messages
4,268
Main rig is a 2080ti + 48cx
Pron rig is a Titan Pascal + C9

I was supposed to get the adapter delivered today but USPS screwed me.
View attachment 262902
Amazing, since I live in a condo and was home. All USPS had to do was ring my door buzzer like
they have done the other million times they delivered a package.

But that is nothing, look at the shipping HELL which has become the first 48CX I was supposed to have
received from Beach Camera Via Fedex: To give some context, Fedex lost this 48cx on a Friday two weeks ago, so I ended up buying a second one locally from Brandsmart on Saturday, then on Tuesday Fedex magically "found it" but I told them to RETURN TO SENDER.

However, Fedex apparently has water on the brain and has attempted to deliver it to me THREE times since! No matter how many times I or beach camera call them and explain to them they need to return it to sender.....currently it is back at the local pompano beach warehouse...I wonder if they will go for attempt #4 or if they will finally send it back to New Jersey.
View attachment 262903
if you are lucky they will leave it at your door and you get a free tv
 

jincuteguy

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 25, 2008
Messages
407
You misunderstood. "OLED light" slider simply adjusts the nits of the display, no impact on colours.

But the "brightness" slider impacts colours, kinda like the "contrast" one does. I don't know if that your issue but you can try playing with those.

Are you sure that the Brightness bar slider affects the color? how do u know? like from LG?
 

Perscitus

n00b
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
37
I ordered the Club 3D HDMI cable, it should get here tomorrow 7/19. I will let you guys know if that will work better with the Adapter since they're both from Club 3D.
Thanks I doubt it will be of any help. Using new, short (1-2m) 48Gbps 8K HDR ARC ethernet over HDMI supporting cables, and its still a handshake clustereff....
 
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Geezus

Limp Gawd
Joined
Apr 9, 2018
Messages
303
If you're using ARC to the soundbar, why are you plugging the laptop into the sound bar instead of the TV...?
so use arc from sound bar to tv via arc or optical, run laptop to tv, then choose lg hdmi as sound output on laptop?

EDIT: Got it it to work doing this. First time I tried this I wasn't getting the wireless bass to work with it but now everything works great.
 
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