LG 48CX

[elvn]

There is a way to "disable ABL" sort of, by changing your settings to remain under the threshold.

From the Rtings C9 Review, regarding SDR settings concerning ABL:
"If ABL bothers you, setting the contrast to '80' and setting Peak Brightness to 'Off' essentially disables ABL, but the peak brightness is quite a bit lower (246-258 cd/m² in all scenes)."

So it sort of avoids ABL by doing that but like

mirkendargen​

replied to me when I posted that info over a year ago last June:

All that's really doing is turning "Automatic Brightness Limiter" to "Always Brightness Limiter", heh.

Still it would avoid ABL on one or more sets of named settings (like standard, APS or whatever) that you could swap to and from (either by navigating with the remote or using the mic+voice) when you are using the display for documents rather than media, HDR media, games, HDR and auto HDR games, etc. Then just engage the other named mode you want when you are viewing media. In fact that is probably best to have a dim setting for documents vs eyestrain, especially for things that don't have or benefit from dark modes.

There are a lot of named modes you can edit for specific usage on the LG OLEDs, and you can break them down and customize them so that they no longer have the settings their default named mode usage scenario is based on at all.

• Vivid
• Standard
• APS
• Cinema
• Sports
• Game
• FILMMAKER MODE
• iisf Expert (Bright Room)
• isf Expert (Dark Room)
• Cinema Home

They all have a separate HDR mode as well that you are able to edit once HDR content is running on one of those modes.

 

[MistaSparkul]

If you want to avoid ABL in SDR that way then you could also try calibrating white to 150 nits and it will never trigger ABL at all.

 

[clayton006]

There is a way to "disable ABL" sort of, by changing your settings to remain under the threshold.

From the Rtings C9 Review, regarding SDR settings concerning ABL:
"If ABL bothers you, setting the contrast to '80' and setting Peak Brightness to 'Off' essentially disables ABL, but the peak brightness is quite a bit lower (246-258 cd/m² in all scenes)."

So it sort of avoids ABL by doing that but like

mirkendargen​

replied to me when I posted that info over a year ago last June:



Still it would avoid ABL on one or more sets of named settings (like standard, APS or whatever) that you could swap to and from (either by navigating with the remote or using the mic+voice) when you are using the display for documents rather than media, HDR media, games, HDR and auto HDR games, etc. Then just engage the other named mode you want when you are viewing media. In fact that is probably best to have a dim setting for documents vs eyestrain, especially for things that don't have or benefit from dark modes.

There are a lot of named modes you can edit for specific usage on the LG OLEDs, and you can break them down and customize them so that they no longer have the settings their default named mode usage scenario is based on at all.

• Vivid
• Standard
• APS
• Cinema
• Sports
• Game
• FILMMAKER MODE
• iisf Expert (Bright Room)
• isf Expert (Dark Room)
• Cinema Home

They all have a separate HDR mode as well that you are able to edit once HDR content is running on one of those modes.

Thanks for this. I'm going to try this out (setting Contrast to 80) and see how this works out. I'm usually in a super dark room so using maximum power save is what my displays are on anyway.

 

[elvn]

Thanks for this. I'm going to try this out (setting Contrast to 80) and see how this works out. I'm usually in a super dark room so using maximum power save is what my displays are on anyway.

No problem. Just remember you can break down and change any of the named settings, then switch between them for different usages using a few clicks of the remote or by using the mic and just saying the name of the setting you want to switch to. That is , outside of game mode and HDR game mode, those would stay for games obviously.

For example, using one named setting you customized to be dim for reading documents, another for sdr media, photos, etc.

one or more sets of named settings (like standard, APS or whatever) that you could swap to and from (either by navigating with the remote or using the mic+voice) when you are using the display for documents rather than media, HDR media, games, HDR and auto HDR games, etc. Then just engage the other named mode you want when you are viewing media. In fact that is probably best to have a dim setting for documents vs eyestrain, especially for things that don't have or benefit from dark modes.

There are a lot of named modes you can edit for specific usage on the LG OLEDs, and you can break them down and customize them so that they no longer have the settings their default named mode usage scenario is based on at all.

• Vivid
• Standard
• APS
• Cinema
• Sports
• Game
• FILMMAKER MODE
• iisf Expert (Bright Room)
• isf Expert (Dark Room)
• Cinema Home

They all have a separate HDR mode as well that you are able to edit once HDR content is running on one of those modes.

 

[gamerk2]

Finally bit the bullet; my 48" C2 should be arriving via Amazon tomorrow. Hopefully no issues with shipping/installation.

 

[Pestluder]

Finally bit the bullet; my 48" C2 should be arriving via Amazon tomorrow. Hopefully no issues with shipping/installation.

Nice, just be careful with the handling.
I had the wife helping, and one of her rings left a light 10" scratch in the screen coating.

 

[gamerk2]

Good news: Its already arrived
Bad news: At work for another 8 hours

 

[Colonel Sanders]

Good news: Its already arrived
Bad news: At work for another 8 hours

enjoy it! you're gonna freaking love it

 

[res]

The absolutely worst thing about this monitor (C1) is the fact that you get used to it. I keep switching to my IPS 32" often to keep the C1 experience fresh.

 

[gamerk2]

C2 is up and running. Took longer then I admit to realize that the 120Hz option was locked behind PC Resolutions on NVIDIA, but no major snafus otherwise. Picture is already noticeably sharper then my B6P (obviously, more then 8bpc is helping a ton).

Only complaint thus far is that I didn't realize the C2 doesn't have a clean way of routing cables through the stand; you have to go around. This wasn't the case on the B6P, and forced same cable mismanagement on my end.

 

[elvn]

Nice, just be careful with the handling.
I had the wife helping, and one of her rings left a light 10" scratch in the screen coating.

That is love right there.

That's a mistake I made a long time ago with belt buckles on a glass crt screen. I always make sure to switch into elastic waistband pants or shorts whenever I move screens now. I'd also remove a watch or rings, hanging necklaces or glasses on strings, etc. I broke too many watches working and smacking them on things when I was younger so I don't even bother with wearing/owning those anymore. When I'm working I wear a rubber black wedding band because metal is just asking for trouble there too. Wearing soft gloves or surgical/safety gloves to move screens isn't a bad idea either, just make sure they aren't a fabric that makes you lose your grip.

 

[FrgMstr]

Was talking to a reviewer a couple of days about OLED and thought this was worth sharing.

I am still using my 48" CX PUB for my primary desktop. I have logged 1800+ hours playing Rust in the last year. Rust has some VERY static elements in the UI and I was worried about burn-in. I do use Screen Shift and Logo Luminance to High to prevent burn-in and I use the Pixel Refresher about once a month. After watching your review I went back and closely examined those areas of the screen where those UI elements are static. I can seen ZERO burn-in around those elements using both a white and black background to look for any damage.

Anyway, great review, thought I would share my real world usage. I bought the 48" in December of 2020. And I bought a 65" for the living room TV as well after being so happy with this 48" on the desktop.

 

[madpistol]

Was talking to a reviewer a couple of days about OLED and thought this was worth sharing.

I am still using my 48" CX PUB for my primary desktop. I have logged 1800+ hours playing Rust in the last year. Rust has some VERY static elements in the UI and I was worried about burn-in. I do use Screen Shift and Logo Luminance to High to prevent burn-in and I use the Pixel Refresher about once a month. After watching your review I went back and closely examined those areas of the screen where those UI elements are static. I can seen ZERO burn-in around those elements using both a white and black background to look for any damage.

Anyway, great review, thought I would share my real world usage. I bought the 48" in December of 2020. And I bought a 65" for the living room TV as well after being so happy with this 48" on the desktop.

I have over 11k combined usage hours on my CX with zero burn-in. I’m honestly shocked. I thought I was going to feel the need to replace it by now, but no. This thing is a rock star

 

[Ruined]

Finally. While I think my 43 is perfect for my desk, I'll accept the 48 and take it.

I had a 43" 16:9 and felt it was too vertically tall for desk even pushed all the way back to the wall on my fairly large desk. For 16:9 display I think 32" is about as large as I would go, or 38" for 21:9. Really not sure how people use these massive displays on desk without discomfort

 

[Zorachus]

I heard this was discounted to $799 now.

Where can you actually find it in stock for that price? Best buy and all the local places around me in Chicago. Nobody stocks this LG 48 C1 anymore

 

[Lateralus]

Was talking to a reviewer a couple of days about OLED and thought this was worth sharing.

I am still using my 48" CX PUB for my primary desktop. I have logged 1800+ hours playing Rust in the last year. Rust has some VERY static elements in the UI and I was worried about burn-in. I do use Screen Shift and Logo Luminance to High to prevent burn-in and I use the Pixel Refresher about once a month. After watching your review I went back and closely examined those areas of the screen where those UI elements are static. I can seen ZERO burn-in around those elements using both a white and black background to look for any damage.

Anyway, great review, thought I would share my real world usage. I bought the 48" in December of 2020. And I bought a 65" for the living room TV as well after being so happy with this 48" on the desktop.

FWIW, I think I read that the best color to test for this is grey. I'm not sure if the shade matters, but I will occasionally throw up a full screen Paint window with a light grey fill. Nothing there every time I've checked.

Use mine for most of the day every single day, primarily for work with some YT vids or gaming in the evening. ASBL disabled using the service remote. No issues. Hard to fathom why people on the sidelines still have burn-in concerns at this point. Must be the from the early days, just like with plasma (our Hitachi plasma has probably 10s of thousands of hours on it. No burn-in and still an excellent picture).

 

[GoldenTiger]

I heard this was discounted to $799 now.

Where can you actually find it in stock for that price? Best buy and all the local places around me in Chicago. Nobody stocks this LG 48 C1 anymore

You kind of missed the boat... It was discounted weeks ago.

 

[elvn]

Was talking to a reviewer a couple of days about OLED and thought this was worth sharing.

I am still using my 48" CX PUB for my primary desktop. I have logged 1800+ hours playing Rust in the last year. Rust has some VERY static elements in the UI and I was worried about burn-in. I do use Screen Shift and Logo Luminance to High to prevent burn-in and I use the Pixel Refresher about once a month. After watching your review I went back and closely examined those areas of the screen where those UI elements are static. I can seen ZERO burn-in around those elements using both a white and black background to look for any damage.

Anyway, great review, thought I would share my real world usage. I bought the 48" in December of 2020. And I bought a 65" for the living room TV as well after being so happy with this 48" on the desktop.

That's good news. I use all of the protections on my LG OLEDs. Like you, loving the 48CX so much we sprung for and bought a big C1 for the living room after my FALD vizio from 2015 died.

Just to remind you and anyone else reading your reply:

From what I read the modern LG OLEDs reserve the top ~ 25% of their brightness/energy states outside of user available range for their wear-evening routine that is done in standby periodically while plugged in and powered. Primarily that, but along with the other brightness limiters and logo dimming, pixel shift, and the turn off the "screen" (emitters) trick if utilized, should extend the life of the screens considerably. With the ~25% wear-evening routine buffer you won't know how much you are burning down the emitter range until after you bottom out that buffer though. As far as I know there is no way to determine what % of that buffer is remaining. So you could be fine abusing the screen outside of recommended usage scenarios for quite some time thinking your aren't damaging it, and you aren't sort-of .. but you will be shortening it's lifespan wearing down the buffer of all the other emitters to match your consistently abused area(s).

A taskbar, persistent toolbar, or a cross of bright window frames the middle of the same 4 window positions or whatever.. might be the first thing to burn-in when the time comes but on the modern LG OLEDs I think the whole screen would be down to that buffer-less level and vulnerable at that point as it would have been wearing down the rest of the screen in the routine to compensate all along over a long time.

The buffer seems like a decent system for increasing OLED screen's lifespan considering what we have for now. It's like having a huge array of candles that all burn down unevenly - but with 25% more candle beneath the table so that you can push them all up a little once in awhile and burn them all down level again.
Or you might think of it like a phone or tablet's battery you are using that has an extra 25% charge module, yet after you turn on your device and start using it you have no idea what your battery charge level is. You can use more power hungry apps and disable your power saving features, screen timeouts, run higher screen brightness when you don't need to, leave the screen on when you aren't looking at it etc. and still get full charge performance for quite some time but eventually you'd burn through the extra 25% battery.

 

[FrgMstr]

Like you, loving the 48CX so much we sprung for and bought a big C1 for the living room after my FALD vizio from 2015 died.

I had a last-gen (2010) 65" Samsung plasma that was finally going out. Had three periodic vertical green lines that would come and go. Retired it to the kids gaming room for the PS5, which works really AWESOME for that.

 

[kasakka]

FWIW, I think I read that the best color to test for this is grey. I'm not sure if the shade matters, but I will occasionally throw up a full screen Paint window with a light grey fill. Nothing there every time I've checked.

Use mine for most of the day every single day, primarily for work with some YT vids or gaming in the evening. ASBL disabled using the service remote. No issues. Hard to fathom why people on the sidelines still have burn-in concerns at this point. Must be the from the early days, just like with plasma (our Hitachi plasma has probably 10s of thousands of hours on it. No burn-in and still an excellent picture).

I'd actually use R, G and B primary color screens as well as shades of gray to test as for example in Rtings' burn-in tests the burn in was most visible on particular colors.

On my CX 48", after two years of 8+ hour desktop use on weekdays with ASBL disabled there is still no burn in and it keeps working like a champ in my living room.

 

[equinox654]

I'd actually use R, G and B primary color screens as well as shades of gray to test as for example in Rtings' burn-in tests the burn in was most visible on particular colors.

On my CX 48", after two years of 8+ hour desktop use on weekdays with ASBL disabled there is still no burn in and it keeps working like a champ in my living room.

What is your oled light setting?
I have had mine at 10 for desktop use for most of the two years I have had it. I'm at 2500 hours now.
Thinking about bumping it into the low 30s so that the colors are right.

 

[Advil]

I had a last-gen (2010) 65" Samsung plasma that was finally going out. Had three periodic vertical green lines that would come and go. Retired it to the kids gaming room for the PS5, which works really AWESOME for that.

Yeah, we still have a 74" Mitsubishi DLP in the living room. The picture is still just flat awesome for 1080p content which is the bulk of what my folks watch anyway. I'm proud of that set, one that it is still alive after all these years, and two that I actually replaced the CPU/DLP Mirror chip once when the first one developed dead pixels. I didn't mess around and put it back together with AS5 thermal compound and it's been a perfect champ ever since. It could die tomorrow and I wouldn't care. We still have another bulb for it. I think it will either be the color wheel or the DLP chip going again that will finally kill it.

 

[equinox654]

I had a

Yeah, we still have a 74" Mitsubishi DLP in the living room. The picture is still just flat awesome for 1080p content which is the bulk of what my folks watch anyway. I'm proud of that set, one that it is still alive after all these years, and two that I actually replaced the CPU/DLP Mirror chip once when the first one developed dead pixels. I didn't mess around and put it back together with AS5 thermal compound and it's been a perfect champ ever since. It could die tomorrow and I wouldn't care. We still have another bulb for it. I think it will either be the color wheel or the DLP chip going again that will finally kill it.

I had a 55” Mitsubishi DLP that I used for years. The only bad thing I have to say about it is that the brightness and color quality would go down pretty fast after a bulb change.

 

[kasakka]

What is your oled light setting?
I have had mine at 10 for desktop use for most of the two years I have had it. I'm at 2500 hours now.
Thinking about bumping it into the low 30s so that the colors are right.

I had it between 20-30 running in SDR mode. That calibrated to about 120-130 nits on my CX 48".

 

[MistaSparkul]

I've ran mine with Windows HDR permanently enabled, OLED light at 100, and the Windows SDR brightness slider set to 12. ASBL also disabled the first week I got the TV and so far no issues for 2 years. Pretty sure I will end up replacing the CX long before it develops any hints of burn in.

 

[kasakka]

I've ran mine with Windows HDR permanently enabled, OLED light at 100, and the Windows SDR brightness slider set to 12. ASBL also disabled the first week I got the TV and so far no issues for 2 years. Pretty sure I will end up replacing the CX long before it develops any hints of burn in.

I used SDR mode because it had more accurate colors and since I was mostly using SDR content using HDR mode made no real difference to me. But it's certainly an option that works fine as long as you set the SDR slider.

 

[MistaSparkul]

I used SDR mode because it had more accurate colors and since I was mostly using SDR content using HDR mode made no real difference to me. But it's certainly an option that works fine as long as you set the SDR slider.

Windows does a pretty good job of displaying SDR content now even when it is set to HDR. For example, if you have an HDR Youtube video running in windowed mode in one corner of your screen but the rest of your desktop is SDR, only that video will be displayed in HDR while the rest of the desktop looks perfectly SDR normal. When I first tried Windows HDR back when it first launched it was a huge mess and washed everything out. It's come a long way since then so I would recommend to just leave HDR on all the time and adjust your SDR brightness accordingly.

 

[kasakka]

Windows does a pretty good job of displaying SDR content now even when it is set to HDR. For example, if you have an HDR Youtube video running in windowed mode in one corner of your screen but the rest of your desktop is SDR, only that video will be displayed in HDR while the rest of the desktop looks perfectly SDR normal. When I first tried Windows HDR back when it first launched it was a huge mess and washed everything out. It's come a long way since then so I would recommend to just leave HDR on all the time and adjust your SDR brightness accordingly.

Yes, but on the LG OLEDs it still results in less accurate color. I think it has to do with running in a color space intended for HDR rather than sRGB. It's a visible difference but not something I would call a dealbreaker or anything, I can notice it mostly in things like purple hues.

 

[gamerk2]

Windows does a pretty good job of displaying SDR content now even when it is set to HDR. For example, if you have an HDR Youtube video running in windowed mode in one corner of your screen but the rest of your desktop is SDR, only that video will be displayed in HDR while the rest of the desktop looks perfectly SDR normal. When I first tried Windows HDR back when it first launched it was a huge mess and washed everything out. It's come a long way since then so I would recommend to just leave HDR on all the time and adjust your SDR brightness accordingly.

This. Heck, it's only been sometime in the past 6 months or so where Microsoft fixed the longstanding bug where the Windows OSD would auto-kick back into SDR for a second even if everything (Windows + Media) were in HDR mode.

 

[elvn]

This. Heck, it's only been sometime in the past 6 months or so where Microsoft fixed the longstanding bug where the Windows OSD would auto-kick back into SDR for a second even if everything (Windows + Media) were in HDR mode.

SDR Overlays always pop things out of HDR mode. Even on my nvidia shield. The windows volume control doing it with it's overlay was a huge pita to me not because it popped out of HDR for a moment like an overlay on my shield but because on windows it was like doing a whole resolution switch when in fullscreen exclusive mode on a game, resulting in a clunky transition to and from.

On my pc I ended up using a usb midi board and manually assigning my apps and whatever games I was playing at the time to different sliders and knobs (and labeling them with thin 1/4" red or black colored artist tape and black or white artist paint pens). That way I could control their volume levels individually without invoking the global volume control. The small usb midi board set up is pretty handy for adjusting volume levels and muting/unmuting regardless, for various running apps, browser, and also including setting windows system sounds to very low or muted when other volumes are high, microphone, etc.

 

[gamerk2]

SDR Overlays always pop things out of HDR mode. Even on my nvidia shield. The windows volume control doing it with it's overlay was a huge pita to me not because it popped out of HDR for a moment like an overlay on my shield but because on windows it was like doing a whole resolution switch when in fullscreen exclusive mode on a game, resulting in a clunky transition to and from.

At least on my PC, this got fixed at some point. Not sure if it's the current driver I'm on or if Microsoft fixed this for good, but I haven't had an overlay pop me out of HDR mode. [Note HDR is on within Windows; that might matter here]

 

[MistaSparkul]

At least on my PC, this got fixed at some point. Not sure if it's the current driver I'm on or if Microsoft fixed this for good, but I haven't had an overlay pop me out of HDR mode. [Note HDR is on within Windows; that might matter here]

Same here. I've had Windows HDR enabled for the past 2 years and have never experienced this.

 

[elvn]

It was a known issue with the windows volume overlay. They may have fixed it in drivers. It could have had something to do with me using multiple monitors too. When I invoke the system menu overlay in my nvidia shield's android system on my C1 TV (single screen setup) it also drops paused movies out of HDR similarly, greying them out of HDR mode, but less clunkily than it used to happen on my muli-monitor setup.

Using the relatively small usb midi board prevents the windows volume overlay/global volume from having to be invoked so it hasn't been a problem for a long time for me either, regardless. Anyway it's pretty convenient to have a separate slider or knob, mute/unmute toggle button above the slider, etc. for every commonly used audible app, windows system sounds, microphone, incoming voice chat/calls from apps, headphones and surround speakers, or whatever games I'm playing at the moment without having to change the focus off of a fullscreen exclusive game or other focused window of an app I'm using to a software audio mixer window. Stream deck also helps with a lot of things.

 

[gamerk2]

It was a known issue with the windows volume overlay. They may have fixed it in drivers.

I know I tested earlier in the year and the bug was still present; I only tested again a bit before I got my C1 just to see if it was fixed, and found it surprisingly was. Note it wasn't the overlay itself; I had an app that disabled the overlay from being present, but Windows still (briefly) kicked back into SDR. Other OSDs (Game Bar, etc.) had much the similar effect.

Still, the fact we're *still* talking about this tells you what a train wreck Windows's HDR support has been.

 

[equinox654]

I ran a burn in tester earlier today and noticed blotches of slightly different color intensity... Kind of like small clouds. Thought the display was starting to degrade.
I just ran the test on my MacBook Pro 14 with the fantastic mini led screen. I see the same artifacts on it, so crisis averted lol.

I guess its an optical illusion coupled with light smudges on the glass.

 

[equinox654]

This app has been posted in this thread previously, but from what I can tell it has been over a year and I didn't see a great bit of detail on its features.
It totally flew under my radar.

I stumbled upon this after updating to Windows 11 yesterday while looking for guides to setup HDR properly..

Color Control:
https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl

It lets you setup all kinds of macros with different toggles. Looks like it is designed to change screen modes and toggle HDR depending on what is application/game is running. I really don't want to bother going through the trouble to set all of that up, but it has a killer feature I have been wanting.

Built in macros to raise and lower oled light. Unfortunately it can't just tell the tv to go to a specific value, but sends controller commands through the network.
So, say you run the macro to raise oled light +20. It will send the controller presses to go through the menu and raise the oled light value by 20.
Also you could edit the macro trivially to say +-70 to go between 30/100.

Still a hell of a lot easier than doing it your self. It wears me out. While working I keep the value low and raise it for games, so always back and forth.

 

[elvn]

This app has been posted in this thread previously, but from what I can tell it has been over a year and I didn't see a great bit of detail on its features.
It totally flew under my radar.

I stumbled upon this after updating to Windows 11 yesterday while looking for guides to setup HDR properly..

Color Control:
https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl
View attachment 512344

It lets you setup all kinds of macros with different toggles. Looks like it is designed to change screen modes and toggle HDR depending on what is application/game is running. I really don't want to bother going through the trouble to set all of that up, but it has a killer feature I have been wanting.

Built in macros to raise and lower oled light. Unfortunately it can't just tell the tv to go to a specific value, but sends controller commands through the network.
So, say you run the macro to raise oled light +20. It will send the controller presses to go through the menu and raise the oled light value by 20.
Also you could edit the macro trivially to say +-70 to go between 30/100.

Still a hell of a lot easier than doing it your self. It wears me out. While working I keep the value low and raise it for games, so always back and forth.

Nice! Thanks.

Can you set any menu item up to a "hotkey" on the controller? I've always wanted to set one of the buttons to do the "turn off the screen" (emitters function). I have that menu item at the bottom of my popup quickmenu at the moment but it takes a click + navigating to that heading. Alternately, with voice control active I can hold the mic button down and say "turn off the screen", but having a one button press would be more convenient and would work more like a mute button. I do see a "screen off" heading in your screen shot but I don't know if that is like hitting the power button of the screen and shutting it down into standby rather than the "turn off the screen" emitters trick.

I'll head over to the link and see if there is a writeup about it. Thanks again.

Not sure if that means the shortcuts can be activated on your pc itself? If that were the case I could link hotkeys to a stream deck which would be extremely convenient.

Looks like that might be the case like the controller software...

https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl/releases/tag/v4.0.0.0

or in your remote controller screenshot they have an entry as "Alt + F5" for example.



I knew I could do some things via the phone software but I've been wanting to do the turn off the screen trick as well as some other tv functions via my stream deck (mapping hotkeys to it) ever since I got the 48cx.

great find. If it was posted before I guess I snoozed on it too so thanks all the same. Maybe I even posted it or replied to it and forgot about it the way things go lol. I vaguley remember some color control software but not the shortcut functions to the remote/tv itself.

Presets​

With the presets you can peform actions on your tv you would normally do via the remote control.

 

[equinox654]

Nice! Thanks.

Can you set any menu item up to a "hotkey" on the controller? I've always wanted to set one of the buttons to do the "turn off the screen" (emitters function). I have that menu item at the bottom of my popup quickmenu at the moment but it take a click + navigating to that heading. Alternately, with voice control active I can hold the mic button down and say "turn off the screen", but having a one button press would be more convenient and would work more like a mute button. I do see a "screen off" heading in your screen shot but I don't know if that is like hitting the power button of the screen and shutting it down into standby rather than the "turn off the screen" emitters trick.

I'll head over to the link and see if there is a writeup about it. Thanks again.

Not sure if that means the shortcuts can be activated on your pc itself? If that were the case I could link hotkeys to a stream deck which would be extremely convenient.

Looks like that might be the case like the controller software...

https://github.com/Maassoft/ColorControl/releases/tag/v4.0.0.0

View attachment 512450

or in your remote controller screenshot they have an entry as "Alt + F5" for example.

I knew I could do some things via the phone software but I've been wanting to do the turn off the screen trick as well as some other tv functions via my stream deck ever since I got the 48cx.

great find. If it was posted before I guess I snoozed on it too so thanks all the same. Maybe I even posted it or replied to it and forgot about it the way things go lol. I vaguley remember some color control software but not the shortcut functions to the remote/tv itself.

You can setup anything that is in the menus on the tv or on the tvs remote. It is sent through the software, so your tvs remote isn’t involved.
The menus come up on the tv as if you were pressing the buttons.

I couldn’t get the key binds to work yet. Probably not doing something right. The stream deck is a good idea. I don’t use mine enough as it is.

Before I posted I searched the thread and at a glance, I think it wasn’t spoken about in this context.

 

[elvn]

You can setup anything that is in the menus on the tv or on the tvs remote. It is sent through the software, so your tvs remote isn’t involved.
The menus come up on the tv as if you were pressing the buttons.

I couldn’t get the key binds to work yet. Probably not doing something right. The stream deck is a good idea. I don’t use mine enough as it is.

Before I posted I searched the thread and at a glance, I think it wasn’t spoken about in this context.

Thanks again for the info. Hopefully the shortcuts/hotkeys can work.

I use my stream deck for windows managment all of the time on my multi-monitor array, among other things.

With the stream deck window management method you can set up your own app window sizes and locations so can tile your desktop windows however you want, and deal them out or teleport them back with the press of a button.

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Stream deck info from some of my previous comments below:
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I've been doing big verticals with a 43" 4k 60hz samsung VA (nu6900 , 6100:1 contrast) bookended on each side of my main screen for several years now. I call them "the two towers".

It's neat to see more people getting exposed to large vertical screens as usage scenarios though nowadays, with uw's and that ark screen's portrait mode and built in window management, window's 11's easy snap-to window management system, etc.

That's pretty much my reply but in case anyone might be interested or benefit from it, here is some info about how I do window management on my tall screens below.

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Easier Stream Deck + handful of stream deck addons method w/o displayfusion:
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You can do most of what is in the displayfusion section below this section more easily with some of the available plug ins for a stream deck without having to use displayfusion:

https://altarofgaming.com/stream-deck-guide-faq/

>Navigate to "More Actions…" and install the following plugins to your Stream Deck: Advanced Launcher & Windows Mover & Resizer. Advanced Launcher, will not only let you pick the application you want to run, but you can also choose to Run as Administrator, Limit the number of running instances, Kill the existing instances – as well as the best one of all – set your unique arguments on the launcher!

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>Windows Mover & Resizer on the other hand, takes productivity to a WHOLE new level! The macro will apply to either your currently selected window, or a specific application you define, and it will let you choose the exact monitor, position & size you want the window to take on the click of your button! ?? This. Is. Sick!

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>And what's the last piece of this glorious puzzle? Stream Deck Multi Actions! Simply combine Advanced Launcher & Windows Mover into a Multi Action, where you first launch the application with the exact settings you need, then it gets automatically positioned in the exact coordinates and size you need!

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>Bringing us to the last huge step! Creating a HUGE multi action that will instantly launch a "Workspace" for you! Launch your game, audio output & input settings, stream starting soon scene, face camera, lights and whatever else you can dream of, in the press of a button! Oh yes, Stream Deck can get THAT good! ??

\*note by me: you can also set up different sets of those "Saved window position profiles" in that last step (or via displayfusion pro + the displayfusion hotkey mapped to a streamdeck button). In that way, you can hit different buttons or multi-press/toggle a single button to shuffle between different styles of window layouts of your apps.

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Stream Deck + Displayfusion Methods
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I use a stream deck's plugins combined with displayfusion functions to open and set all of my app's "home" locations across three screens. Cobbling together a few existing functions in the displayfusion library, I can hit a single app icon key several time to: ..check to see if the app is open, if not open, launch it. ..check to see if the app is minimized: if not, minimize it. if yes, restore it to its home position. That way I can hit the button once to launch an app or hit it a few times to shuffle the app min/restored to its home position. I also have a bunch of streamdeck buttons that will move whatever window is the active window to a bunch of pre-set locations:

I also have a button set to an overall saved window position profile so that once all of my apps are launched or after anytime I move any from their home positions - I can hit one button and they'll all shuffle back to where I saved them in the window position profile. (I can also save more than one position profile).

I keep the main taskbar dragged off of my primary screens to the top of one of my side portrait mode screens. I use translucent taskbar to make it transparent and I set up taskbarhider app to show/hide the taskbar as a toggle via hotkey/stream deck button. That locks the taskbar away or shows it via hotkey/button rather than relying on mouse-over. I can still hit WIN+S and type two letters and hit enter for anything I have yet to map to a page on my streamdeck's buttons. I can use Win+TAB to page between tiles of all apps/windows (displayfusion can set that to limit which app thumbnails are shown in the tab popup overlay to which apps are open on the currently active screen optionally as well) .. but I can usually just do that with each app's button as I outlined above so rarely need to do that. The start menu button is always available too obviously but again I have little need with Win+S.

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I highly recommend a stream deck to break away from the whole windows kiosk interface even more. It'll change you life.

 

[equinox654]

Ok good news, it can directly control the oled light level.
backlight() is the command. Make sure to hit save after putting your keyboard short cut in.