LG 48CX

[elvn]

Glad you figured it out. I thought it was something with your cable or that you were running a custom timing/bit file like someone mentioned as the reason that wouldn't let the system see it as 120hz - so I didn't even think that it could be that you had missed a settings panel selection that might have defaulted.

I was very happy to see that same panel when I first connected my 3000 series gpu a few weeks ago. I got that same panel you screenshotted, set it to 120Hz and screen shotted it myself then (mine was on HDR color space setting though). It was a milestone getting hdmi 2.1 bandwidth.

Also this one for hdmi 2.1 VRR:




................................................................................

I haven't bothered to catch the TV's instant game response message on camera yet. The mode changes that blink the whole screen when instant game response and/or HDR metadata kick in are annoying, almost like degaussing or resetting an old CRT... and they are even more annoying if you ever bounce back and forth from them (minimizing a full screen HDR game for example) since they might blink on and off more than once until they settle in... but it's worth it for the end results. I'd rather just run VRR and HDR all the time seamlessly. I mean, I do for HDR but it's at the windows HDR color setting. Even with HDR enabled all of the time on the desktop - when a HDR title kicks in it reads that title's metadata, blinks the screen to that metadata mode and shows the HDR mode message pop-up (sometimes more than once). I was hoping windows 11 made this more seamless, at least for HDR, but I haven't heard anything about that yet. I'm still using windows 10.

It's annoying but usable. It's hasn't progressed much from the old days when you'd have very harsh mode changing and verrrry clunky fullscreen mode switching that was almost like system stalling, crossing fingers while the screen blinked a bunch of times and hoped it didn't get stuck on a black screen lol. . Windowed + fullscreen mode helped with that for awhile but now I'm back to clunky mode switching and with new modes I guess.

 

[tunatime]

Anyone started noticing flashing/blinking at 120hz? Fired up some stellaris and dark parts blink/dim like they can't figure out what brightness to stay at. 60hz works fine but now that Im looking for it I see it other games also that have dark ui

 

[gamerk2]

I haven't bothered to catch the TV's instant game response message on camera yet. The mode changes that blink the whole screen when instant game response and/or HDR metadata kick in are annoying, almost like degaussing or resetting an old CRT... and they are even more annoying if you ever bounce back and forth from them (minimizing a full screen HDR game for example) since they might blink on and off more than once until they settle in... but it's worth it for the end results. I'd rather just run VRR and HDR all the time seamlessly. I mean, I do for HDR but it's at the windows HDR color setting. Even with HDR enabled all of the time on the desktop - when a HDR title kicks in it reads that title's metadata, blinks the screen to that metadata mode and shows the HDR mode message pop-up (sometimes more than once). I was hoping windows 11 made this more seamless, at least for HDR, but I haven't heard anything about that yet. I'm still using windows 10.

It's annoying but usable. It's hasn't progressed much from the old days when you'd have very harsh mode changing and verrrry clunky fullscreen mode switching that was almost like system stalling, crossing fingers while the screen blinked a bunch of times and hoped it didn't get stuck on a black screen lol. . Windowed + fullscreen mode helped with that for awhile but now I'm back to clunky mode switching and with new modes I guess.

Still doing that huh? I've had HDR disabled on my B6P for exactly this reason.

It wouldn't be a problem if it was "just" application switching, but HDR also blinks on/off when the windows UI (volume indicator, game bar, etc.) comes up, regardless of what mode Windows is running in.

I know Windows 11 is apparently adding some sort of HDR emulation for non-HDR titles. If this has the effect of allowing *everything* to output as HDR (avoiding the above issue) then HDR might "finally" be usable. But for now, I'm not touching it due to all the problems.

 

[elvn]

Still doing that huh? I've had HDR disabled on my B6P for exactly this reason.

It wouldn't be a problem if it was "just" application switching, but HDR also blinks on/off when the windows UI (volume indicator, game bar, etc.) comes up, regardless of what mode Windows is running in.

I know Windows 11 is apparently adding some sort of HDR emulation for non-HDR titles. If this has the effect of allowing *everything* to output as HDR (avoiding the above issue) then HDR might "finally" be usable. But for now, I'm not touching it due to all the problems.

There are ways to disable that volume slider with an app that hides it but ymmv.

I do have a usb master control knob though too, drok. I had that before I got a relatively cheap "mini" midi board. The drok usb volume buton also acts as a giant mute button. When using the drok or any other adjuster to the main/global system volume, that windows app volume overlay will show up like you were saying and it does screw up the hdr mode.

I personally use a little usb midi board with sliders and knobs along with powermixer app to map my most used apps each to a slider that I label with labeling tape and a white or black paint pen. I keep some knobs on the top row for whatever games I'm playing at the moment. Those are the only ones I ever really change. It's very easy to map any app volume to the midi value/# of each slider or knob. In this way I can adjust different app volumes separately and without dropping out of a game or whatever else I'm doing, and without invoking that windows master volume overlay window

------------------------------------------------

I still get HDR switching when running HDR metadata content and a notification window pops up, or if I pause a fullscreen exclusive game and minimize it obviously. That's what I meant about the trade-off. I also get the VRR message every time the game initializes or re-initializes, min/restored. It's worth it for the end result but it takes me back to the days where everything had to be full screen exclusive and you couldn't just hit the windows key to then page your mouse off of a windowed+fullscreen game. At least I don't have to reboot to DOS mode to play a HDR + VRR game

To me, HDR and VRR in game are definitely worth the mode switching inconvenience but it is definitely clunky and not optimal.

------------------------------------------------

What you said about windows adding HDR emulation is interesting but I doubt it will have the global seamless mode changing effect you are outlining. I'm guessing it will be more like when I used Reshade with FakeHDR filter + lightroom filter to make Darksiders3 look something like "SDR plus". It would be great if they could make the modes seamless or always on w/o clunky switching though. Kind of like when they made g-sync work with windowed+fullscreen and windowed modes so you didn't have to be fullscreen exclusive.

 

[gamerk2]

There are ways to disable that volume slider with an app that hides it but ymmv.

Hiding the volume bar still causes the issue; believe me, I went down that rabbit hole.

Interestingly, I got a new firmware for the B6P today, and I updated to the latest NVIDIA drivers recently. So far, the HDR switching issue seems to be solved. Still testing though.

EDIT

Nope; works fine on desktop, but still broken in HDR games. Pretty much anything that invokes the Windows UI overlay causes Windows to drop back to SDR.

 

[kalston]

Sadly I have too many bugs and issues with HDR as well. Heck I just got a "fresh" bug in the last couple of months where the Netflix app stutters like hell with HDR enabled only. It worked perfectly fine before...

I am not actually consuming that much HDR content right now though and some of it is really poorly mastered so I don't actually care much, yet. But doesn't change that HDR is the future and I would like to see more progress on that front when it comes to software (hardware too of course but that is already going well IMO).

 

[elvn]

I played "Jedi: Fallen Order" (on jedi knight 2nd hardest difficulty with the hud turned off via ini edit), in HDR and then I played Nioh2 in HDR. Both looked amazing in HDR on the OLED. I then used Reshade on Darksiders3 (on the highest difficulty). I used FakeHDR filter, Ligthroom filter, and a rendering filter to great effect to give a quasi-HDR look (at least SDR plus luminance) on that SDR game. I also turned the color setting in the TV's OSD in game mode up considerably and then edited it from there with the lightroom filter to help achieve that end result. After that I started playing "Immortals: Fenyx Rising" which is something like a BreathOfTheWild design combined with a souls-like combat on the hardest difficulty. The HDR in that game is gorgeous. I did use Reshade to tone down the fog like ~haze effect that game uses though. I also got ACdyssey on sale pretty cheap and the HDR on that game is supposed to be great too, whenever I get through Fenyx to play that one.

All three of the HDR games I played and am playing were well worth the HDR mode switching clunkiness. The VRR message box pops up between desktop and VRR modes too, don't forget. Unless I'm missing something in how to make that always on.

So to me, the end result is well worth the clunky mode switching but of course it would be great if someday they could make it more seamless.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hiding the volume bar still causes the issue; believe me, I went down that rabbit hole.

Interestingly, I got a new firmware for the B6P today, and I updated to the latest NVIDIA drivers recently. So far, the HDR switching issue seems to be solved. Still testing though.

EDIT

Nope; works fine on desktop, but still broken in HDR games. Pretty much anything that invokes the Windows UI overlay causes Windows to drop back to SDR.

You can get a relatively cheap usb midi board and assign your game and your most use apps that have audio to it's sliders or knobs. It's really easy to do, trust me. It's one drop down to select volume and another to select the # value of whichever slider you want to assign it to on the midi board. Then you can adjust their volumes individually and leave the master volume alone.


There are two main apps, and you can prob use obs or voicemeter or something too but I haven't looked into that. While it supports midi mapping, I don't think voicementer does surround sound and I don't like the way it lists the volume apps in a small area with only a few showing - so I don't use that one. There are probably some other ways but the two I linked below are probably the easiest way. After they are mapped initially you can minimize the mapping app and just use the sliders/knobs. You never have to map another knob or slider again unless/until you want to add a new game or a new app someday.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

How to set your app volumes to midi device sliders/knobs:
================================================


Old powermixer app. Simple but works great:





A more modern app that does the same thing essentially, with a few added features:



-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are tiny controllers like the Korg NanoKontrol2 (~$75) and a few other minis (novation launch control 16 is one among other "portable" midi mixers).

but at my desk I've used an akai midimix usb board (~ $100)

or a novation launch control XL (~ $150).

I keep the square style boards mounted on a plastic mount made for holding a book for reading. That or an angled laptop tray work pretty good so that they are angled toward you slightly.

They all should work but you get what you pay for in the quality of the knobs and sliders and overall board. I think the novation ones are a little better though pricier.



edit: I use these to make labels for the sliders and knobs...

6 Pack 6mm 1/4 Inch Width Graphic Art Tape Adhesive Artist Tape, Whiteboards Chart PET Thin Tape, 216 Feet Long per Roll (Multicolor - 1/4 Inch)

PANDAFLY White Paint Pens, 8 Pack 0.7mm Acrylic Permanent Marker 6 White With 2 Black Paint Pens for Wood Rock Plastic Leather Glass Stone Metal Canvas Ceramic, Extra Fine Point Opaque Ink


Another edit:
You can probably use some of the extra functions downloadable for stream deck LCD button devices to map vol up and vol down keys for individual apps too but I don't find that device the best choice for volume changing. It works great for play/pause fwd/next last/back, mute, etc but not for massaging volumes up/down, at least to my tastes compared to using a slider or knob. You could probably set a single button to % volumes like 25% 50% 100% toggle/cycle though with a single vol cycle button per app if you wanted to go that route, with a mute for that app near it.

 

[harvindhillon]

Just got a C1 as well, wanted to share just if there are others out there who likes the convenience of desktop icons
https://m.majorgeeks.com/mg/get/autohidedesktopicons,1.html

I also use windows Power Toys to do custom snapping.

 

[peppergomez]

How do I disable "The Instant game response is enabled" message that continually appears in the top right of the screen?

 

[xDiVolatilX]

How do I disable "The Instant game response is enabled" message that continually appears in the top right of the screen?

R u serious? This is still an issue? Wow

 

[elvn]

Both mode switches do that at times. HDR metadata and VRR whenever you switch in/out of them. They don't happen continually but they do happen regularly as in whenever the mode switches on or off.

If I'm remembering correctly, that includes:
... launching, minimizing, or closing a game (VRR notification overlay)
... launching, minimizing, or closing a HDR game or other HDR metadata content (HDR mode notification overlay).
.... also happens if you invoke the windows master volume control while running HDR content because it has an overlay that robs the focus from your game. I avoid that using midi sliders for each of my most used audio apps and browsers and a few knobs mapped to whatever games I'm currently playing. Very easy to set up if you have any small usb midi board/device.

The effect is a clunky mode transition something like changing your screen resolution. So if you consider VRR and HDR like changing resolution it might make more sense.

So once the game is running the messages go away until you minimize or close the game (or rarely if some notification pops up from windows or some other app, stealing the focus away).


It would be nice if you could keep VRR mode on all of the time on the desktop so it would never switch on and off. In some g-sync monitors, the dedicated g-sync modules would run hot. Some even had active fan cooling and the hot running g-sync modules could fail from the wear and tear of the heat. So some people would run the desktop at a lower Hz than when they were gaming by setting the hz for 3d modes as higher in the nvidia control panel, in order to not be burning up the g-sync module when outside of games. I don't know if always on would be a concern with g-sync compatible hdmi VRR on the LG CX since it's not actually using a g-sync module. If it's no concern than I'd rather just leave VRR/instant game response on all of the time to eliminate at least one mode switch and notification overlay if they ever made that possible.

That said I have to say again that the end result of having VRR and HDR on the LG CX is well worth the clunky mode switch when launching (and closing) the title.

It would be great if they could make it more seamless eventually though. Just being able to turn off the notification overlays would be nice but I don't think it would solve the problem. The mode switching would still trigger screen blanking clunkiness when changing modes, kind of like changing resolutions.

 

[SH1]

Hi Everyone. Can the CX do 4:4:4 and BFI at the same time? Can the C1? (I had read something regarding the latter that appeared to be suggesting the contrary.)

 

[ChronoDetector]

Does anybody have video signal issues with a NVIDIA 3000 series card with the LG 2020 BX/CX series? I just sold my 6900 XT and bought a 3090 and I'm having issues with my LG OLED when booting into Windows, the TV will go blank and loses video signal. So far I've Googled this solution and apparently people are having issues with this TV and a 3000 series GPU. I never had any issues with my 1030 GT and a 2080 Ti and I regret selling my 6900 XT only to have Windows failing too boot up properly with the video signal loss with the 3090.

 

[mirkendargen]

Hi Everyone. Can the CX do 4:4:4 and BFI at the same time? Can the C1? (I had read something regarding the latter that appeared to be suggesting the contrary.)

Yes, BFI is just something the TV does, nothing is included in the signal (and therefore no specific amount of bandwidth is needed for it). The only time you can't use BFI is with VRR.

 

[Lateralus]

Does anybody have video signal issues with a NVIDIA 3000 series card with the LG 2020 BX/CX series? I just sold my 6900 XT and bought a 3090 and I'm having issues with my LG OLED when booting into Windows, the TV will go blank and loses video signal. So far I've Googled this solution and apparently people are having issues with this TV and a 3000 series GPU. I never had any issues with my 1030 GT and a 2080 Ti and I regret selling my 6900 XT only to have Windows failing too boot up properly with the video signal loss with the 3090.

No problems like that here with an EVGA 3090. Most reports of blanking/lost signal have been cable related. I’m not saying that’s your issue obviously, but it hasn’t been a widely reported or observed trend relating to 3000 series GPUs in this thread.

 

[MistaSparkul]

Does anybody have video signal issues with a NVIDIA 3000 series card with the LG 2020 BX/CX series? I just sold my 6900 XT and bought a 3090 and I'm having issues with my LG OLED when booting into Windows, the TV will go blank and loses video signal. So far I've Googled this solution and apparently people are having issues with this TV and a 3000 series GPU. I never had any issues with my 1030 GT and a 2080 Ti and I regret selling my 6900 XT only to have Windows failing too boot up properly with the video signal loss with the 3090.

Yes I had this problem with my 3090, first boot into Windows always results in a black screen. Only way to fix it was to hold down the power button then turn the PC back on and it would always boot up into Windows the 2nd time around. Lol funny enough I actually did the opposite of you and sold my 3090 while keeping the 6900 XT. Prices of GPUs have gone back up due to crypto rising again so I was able to snag a hefty profit on my 3090, and with my 6900 XT being absolutely flawless on my CX so far this past month it just made my decision to keep it even easier. Here is my quote from Jan 4th 2021 mentioning this issue.

So this has happened to me 5 days in a row now ever since getting the 3090: I get no signal on boot up, it doesn't matter whether I turn my PC on first and then my TV or if I turn the TV on first and then my PC. There is always no signal unless I shutdown my PC by holding the power button down and then turn it back on within a few seconds. Any way to fix this?

 

[Seyumi]

Does anybody have video signal issues with a NVIDIA 3000 series card with the LG 2020 BX/CX series? I just sold my 6900 XT and bought a 3090 and I'm having issues with my LG OLED when booting into Windows, the TV will go blank and loses video signal. So far I've Googled this solution and apparently people are having issues with this TV and a 3000 series GPU. I never had any issues with my 1030 GT and a 2080 Ti and I regret selling my 6900 XT only to have Windows failing too boot up properly with the video signal loss with the 3090.

I had the same exact problem on my 3090 and C9. There would always be a black screen on cold-boot but would be fine if I turned off the system and turned it back on again (or unplugged the HDMI cable & plugged it back in again).

It's a BIOS/windows issue and is fixable. I forgot the exact fix, but:

-Disable any type of "Fast Boot" or whatever in Windows 10
(https://www.windowscentral.com/how-disable-windows-10-fast-startup)
-Disable CSM in your BIOS (don't think I had to do this one)

Haven't had an issue ever since.

 

[ChronoDetector]

So far I bought another HDMI 2.1 cable and the problem stopped, for now. I tested it by turning on and off my PC several times and so far it has successfully booted into Windows without any black screen/no signal issues.

I previously tried disabling fast boot and that didn't solve the issue, disabling CSM rendered by system unbootable as it disabled my drives.

But thanks for the help, I appreciate it.

 

[gamerk2]

It would be great if they could make it more seamless eventually though. Just being able to turn off the notification overlays would be nice but I don't think it would solve the problem. The mode switching would still trigger screen blanking clunkiness when changing modes, kind of like changing resolutions.

The easiest fix would be to make the Windows UI (volume bar, game overlay, etc.) follow the system HDR settings, which would solve one of the biggest issues. The other would be to just force the system to follow HDR/VRR system wide.

 

[madpistol]

Got a PS5 a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday, I fired up Spider Man Miles Morales for the first time, and let me tell you... the game looks stupid good on my CX 55. Mind blowingly good. HDR looks incredible!

 

[Porter_]

Got a PS5 a couple of weeks ago. Yesterday, I fired up Spider Man Miles Morales for the first time, and let me tell you... the game looks stupid good on my CX 55. Mind blowingly good. HDR looks incredible!

Yeah it looks pretty good. HDR is handled really well on the PS5, at least in my experience.

 

[Perscitus]

3.23.25 out for a week or so now on KR site and now on the US and CAN sites as of yesterday.

Generic useless release note - bug fixes and improvements as usual. But hey, new build and new build date. No way to turn off annoying notifications and HDR/SDR mode switching screen blinking intact now just like 18-20 months ago. Woo hoo.

 

[petrthomas]

The only obvious explanation is that they do not want these to be utilised for computer purposes.

 

[MelonSplitter]

Again................ Not even a "PLEASE" this time LG. Make the "Game Response has Launched" notification SMALLER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[kasakka]

The only obvious explanation is that they do not want these to be utilised for computer purposes.

"Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity." It is more likely that someone was tasked with making the game response setup with a spec that the user should be notified so the obvious thing is to just use WebOS standard notifications for that. Being a TV, those need to be decently sized to be visible from the sofa. No, they did not change a single thing for the 48" model in that regard.

 

[TwistedMetalGear]

Weird question but is it rough on these TVs to turn them on/off multiple times per day? Wondering if it's better to turn the TV off via remote whenever I'm away vs. just leaving it on a black screen saver. Note that I do turn it off every night so it has ample time to do its pixel refresh. But for day time use, should I be turning it off every time I walk away for an hour or so? Will the constant power cycles wear the TV faster than just leaving it on a black screen saver?

 

[darkknight302]

Does anyone know if the MSI stat overlay OSD used in game will cause a burn in issue? I'm a bit worried because I use it all the time to check my fps, temps and so on.

 

[sharknice]

Weird question but is it rough on these TVs to turn them on/off multiple times per day? Wondering if it's better to turn the TV off via remote whenever I'm away vs. just leaving it on a black screen saver. Note that I do turn it off every night so it has ample time to do its pixel refresh. But for day time use, should I be turning it off every time I walk away for an hour or so? Will the constant power cycles wear the TV faster than just leaving it on a black screen saver?

I doubt it would make much difference but I turn mine off if I am going to be away for more than a half hour for another reason.

I don't trust windows to keep it on a black screen. I have the taskbar and desktop icons on another monitor and windows will sometimes randomly decide to move them around when displays go to sleep or get shut off. And I like to turn off the other screens because they're lcd with a backlight always on wasting power.

A keyboard could get pressed, or some software could trigger it to exit sleep mode and suddenly you have a static image wearing away at the screen while you're gone.

So I just lock the pc and shut all the screens off if I am going to leave for 30+ minutes.

 

[Porter_]

Does anyone know if the MSI stat overlay OSD used in game will cause a burn in issue? I'm a bit worried because I use it all the time to check my fps, temps and so on.

You can map the OSD to a hot key (I think by default it’s F11) to turn it on/off. I have gotten into the habit of leaving it off and only turning it on when I’m curious about performance.

 

[MistaSparkul]

You can map the OSD to a hot key (I think by default it’s F11) to turn it on/off. I have gotten into the habit of leaving it off and only turning it on when I’m curious about performance.

Same. Unless I feel that something's not running right I just leave my OSD off.

 

[harvindhillon]

You can map the OSD to a hot key (I think by default it’s F11) to turn it on/off. I have gotten into the habit of leaving it off and only turning it on when I’m curious about performance.

Or you can get a small 7" monitor and have all that on there

I have a spare 21" I use for the same, I put all my desktop icons and system stats on there

 

[elvn]

Weird question but is it rough on these TVs to turn them on/off multiple times per day? Wondering if it's better to turn the TV off via remote whenever I'm away vs. just leaving it on a black screen saver. Note that I do turn it off every night so it has ample time to do its pixel refresh. But for day time use, should I be turning it off every time I walk away for an hour or so? Will the constant power cycles wear the TV faster than just leaving it on a black screen saver?

Pasting my quote here. Some relevant info in it but the link is on the bottom if you want to skip to it.
.
..

..The 20/20 vision threshold for 48" 4k:
----------------------------------------------------------------
20/20 vision threshold is 60 PPD which starts at (meaning no closer than)
33.5" viewing distance and 64 degree viewing angle for a 48" 16:9 4k screen (and starts at ~1.5' on a 27" 4k)

Sitting any closer will be much poorer text and aliasing. You can try to compensate with aggressive AA and try to tweak subpixel sampling on text but it's still not optimal.

While
33.5" - 60 PPD - 64deg is the nearest you can sit while still within the 20/20 vision threshold, personally I think what's best for this screen is:

38" -- 41" - 44.4" - 48" view distance
66.6 - 72 -- 76 - -- 81.5 PPD
58 - - 54 -- 50 --- 47 degree horizontal viewing angle

--------------------------

I use a 43" in portrait mode on each side of my 48" screen. At the sweet spot distances for viewing the 48" in landscape (38" - 48" to my eyeballs), running even 43" screens in landscape on the sides wouldn't work for my liking. Instead I use the side screens with 3 windows stacked or a 2/3 + 1/3 configuration by default or on the fly, with a few other window arrangements saved to profiles. The side screens are samsung nu6900 VA's (around 6100:1 contrast ratio and accompanying black depths) , so I don't have to worry about burn in on those.

I use displayfusion multi-monitor app with it's own taskbars and duplicated system tray on them which I set to very narrow at the top of my side screens. I hide the windows task bar on my primary oled monitor using a hot key show/hide toggle in an app called taskbar hider. (I could also drag the windows taskbar off of the primary monitor to the top of one of my side monitors if I wanted to). I also use the translucent taskbar app to make the windows taskbar itself transparent.

I use displayfusion functions tied to streamdeck lcd buttons with icons to launch and place all of my most used apps, and to open commonly used windows system panels, etc. It also places the active window wherever I want using streamdeck buttons + hotkeys with LCD buttons outlining window placement locations something like windows 11 is doing (but better imo). I cobbled together some neat multi functions for my most used apps on multiple-presses of the same app button to launch/minimize/restore-to-my-set-home-position-for-that-particular-app. Finally, I have saved window position profiles in displafusion hotkeyed to streamdeck button(s) so I can hit one button and shuffle all of my open apps at once back to where I had saved them in that profile. One single press. I also have a pair of on the fly save/restore positions buttons next to that one.

I can use windows + S key to open search at any time and type the first 2 or three letters of anything which almost always picks up what I want, and then hit enter if it's anything I for some reason don't have mapped to my stream deck.

I use a small usb midi controller with some easy to use software in order to map all of my most used app's audio to sliders and some games to some control knobs. That way I don't have to invoke the global windows system volume overlay (which drops games out of hdr metadata/mode).

-----------------

I dedicate the middle OLED as a multimedia and gaming screen / "stage". When afk or not using it I use the "turn off the screen" trick to turn off the oled emitters without dropping the screen out of the monitor array. Almost like minimizing the whole screen and restoring it when I want to use it again.

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/j0mia1/quick_tip_for_a_fast_way_to_turn_off_the_screen/

This option seems to only be for the LG CX, BX and GX unfortunately.. Would be nice for LG to add this to previous models with enough requests.
I notice many people have been going all the way through the settings or using voice commands to turn the screen off. Screen off comes in handy for many things like Spotify and podcasts with a static image while still hearing sound (the tv isn't actually off). There is a very quick and convenient way to simply add a screen off button to your quick settings when you press the settings button once (not holding as that will take you to main settings)
So you want to press the settings cog button once and then scroll to the bottom pencil button aka edit. You may have to delete a less used button to make room and then press the + button and find 'screen off'. This will add it to your quick menu which is really fast and doesn't require you to find it deep in settings or talk into your remote and wait for the countdown (it's instant). You can add a bunch of other stuff to quick menu via + but screen off was the big one for me.
I hope this helps! I've noticed many users didn't know this when I've commented so I figured it may help some of you worried about static images.

You should still turn off the screen completely into standby overnight or when you are going to be away a long time though because the display sometimes goes into an oled wear-evening routine when left in standby for several hours. That won't happen with the "turn off the screen" trick because the TV is not off at all really - it's on and operating in the array, the emitters are just off temporarily.

 

[elvn]

Does anyone know if the MSI stat overlay OSD used in game will cause a burn in issue? I'm a bit worried because I use it all the time to check my fps, temps and so on.

You can use this on a tablet or phone. (Probably better on a tablet).

https://event.msi.com/us/afterburnerapp/faq.html

https://event.msi.com/us/afterburnerapp/use.html

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.msi.gamingapp&hl=en_US&gl=US

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/msi-afterburner-app/id472232633


Not the prettiest monitoring page but it works apparently.

You can also go to a page full of sliders to adjust the voltages and fans and everything.

Personally I have enough desktop real-estate to display a lot of readout stuff on my side screens. I keep rainmeter "Widgets" at the top of my right screen showing several panels worth of system stuff all of the time. Some of the rainmeter widgets are linked to hwinfo64 and monitor cpu and gpu stats.
https://www.deviantart.com/tag/rainmeter

There are prettier ones but this one is very readable at a glance. You don't have to have all of the modules loaded. You can also load modules mixed and matched between other sets of rainmeter widgets from other authors.

I'd also consider buying a portable usb screen to connect to your gaming rig just for that kind of thing if you don't have to room to start with or if you run out of space or monitor outputs
I might end up doing that in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/portable-usb-monitor/s?k=portable+usb+monitor

 

[TwistedMetalGear]

You can use this on a tablet or phone. (Probably better on a tablet).

So you are trading burn in on your TV for burn in on your OLED phone.

Do people really leave these stats up 24/7? Kind of ruins the immersion of the game having all those stats up, no?

 

[kasakka]

So you are trading burn in on your TV for burn in on your OLED phone.

Do people really leave these stats up 24/7? Kind of ruins the immersion of the game having all those stats up, no?

Way too many people are obsessing over if their framerate dips even once in gameplay. Use it to find settings that work for you and then just turn it off and you will be happier.

 

[elvn]

So you are trading burn in on your TV for burn in on your OLED phone.

Do people really leave these stats up 24/7? Kind of ruins the immersion of the game having all those stats up, no?

Yeah that's one of the reasons I said, prob better off on a tablet. I specifically chose a ips tablet and a oled phone this time around because I got some burn in on my last samsung oled tablet (I think due to heat rather than time left on but I can't be sure). You could use an old tablet or phone you aren't using anymore, or could prob score a cheap android ips tablet just for that purpose (maybe even cheap fire tablets), you can use a small screen made for raspberry pi and use a raspberry pi as the system monitor (see link below), or like I said, a similar sized usb/mini/portable screen would be a lot more capable in your gaming rig OS with overall widgets but it might take up a display output on your gpu.

The rainmeter widgets I mentioned were also in regard to secondary screens.

I use my center landscape OLED as a media/gaming "stage" so I'm not putting any static readouts on it other than the gaming HUD. My side screens are 6100:1 VA's in portrait. I leave some widgets up in a band at the top of my right portrait screen, prob 15-20% tall. The next row down is a set of 3 communications windows (an irc client, sms/text app tied to my phone, 3rd party encrypted chat app for a few people) and a shareX screenshot app. The bottom 40% of that screen is a web browser, email client, or other app depending what button I push on my streamdeck.

My left screen usually has three windows stacked evenly on top of each other or two windows at 2/3 + 1/3.

I still might add another screen someday just for the widgets/system monitoring tools. I don't have a fps meter up in my widgets but I do shoot for 100fps average if I can get it in order to get appreciable gains out of a 120hz screen. Once I dial in whatever settings for a game graphics/framerate balance wise, I'm not keeping a fps meter up on the gaming screen unless I notice a problem. The system monitoring tools I use aren't really for frame rate in my usage scenario. More like network activity, temps, voltage , %usage of cpu/gpu(I used to have 2 gpus in SLI too) /memory/drives, top resource using apps, etc. Also clock/calendar/weather forecast+moon phase. I don't use taskbars anymore really.

Do people really leave these stats up 24/7?

I agree not overlayed on the gaming viewport but otherwise..

..Yes

..............

Some people even put lcd stuff in their aquarium style pc cases, including lcd readout AiO coolers. Not really my thing as I don't keep my pc on my desk surface but whatever floats your boat. The fact that you can put custom animated gifs on the nzxt AiO is kind of neat though I have to admit.

Or on their desk with a small screen in the same way:

---------

https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterra..._an_old_android_phone_or_any_smartphone_into/

Turn an old Android phone (or any smartphone) into a PC hardware stats monitor​

-----------

https://www.reddit.com/r/raspberry_...pberry_pi_pc_hardware_resource_monitor_using/

-----
Aida64 (paid app, kind of pricey $50 and a per yr extension I think $40)

https://forums.aida64.com/topic/667-share-your-sensorpanel/page/72/

------------

A Hwinfo64 app that does similar, works on tablets (and phones) listed below.
The aida64 app above seems to have a lot more customization and community with ongoing template creation but aida64 is kind of expensive with a yearly price tag

https://www.youtube.com/embed/GaDu6pNaNu4?ps=play&vq=large&rel=0&autohide=1&showinfo=0&authuser=0


https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.trigonesoft.rsm&hl=en_US&gl=US

https://www.trigonesoft.com/

https://www.trigonesoft.com/index.php/gallery

--------------------------------------

A different Hwinfo64 app ... looks pretty nice:

Prometheus Adapter for HWiNFO (+ Grafana Dashboard)​

https://www.hwinfo.com/forum/threads/prometheus-adapter-for-hwinfo-grafana-dashboard.6281/

https://github.com/kallex/PromDapter/releases

PromDapter = Prometheus Adapter
-------------------------------

Currently in Pre-Release/Beta stage
- Lightly documented
- Source available, but not completely buildable due to HWiNFO Provider being private NuGet for the time being

Pre-requisites:
- HWiNFO running with Shared Memory enabled and Sensor-mode (window) opened, can be hidden afterwards

v0.9.xx-beta
Setup:
- Windows 64-bit supported only (should be trivial to make 32-bit, open an issue if needed)
- Sets up LocalSystem - running Service called "Prometheus Adapter" (PromDapterSvc)
- Service is serving on port 10445 (need to open it in firewall for TCP protocol)
- Setup is supposed to not overwrite existing

URLs:
http://localhost:10445/metrics
- Serves Prometheus-formed metrics

http://localhost:10445/metrics/help
- Lists # HELP tagged parts of metrics for (easier?) review of what's available

http://localhost:10445/metrics/reset
- Resets internal caches (= reloads "C:\ProgramData\PromDapter\Prometheusmapping.yaml" on next request)

JSON support:
http://localhost:10445/metrics/json
http://localhost:10445/metrics/json?option=flattenMeta


Configuration/Metric definition:
- Modify C:\ProgramData\PromDapter\Prometheusmapping.yaml (save your copy safely elsewhere and copy over + reset with url above)
(The installation version of the file is also available in "C:\Program Files\PromDapter")

TODO (next):
- Configurable server port (currently fixed 10445)
- Configurable metric prefix (currently fixed hwi_)

TODO (needs to be done):
- Finish remaining HWiNFO sensors (various voltage, fan sensor naming properly)
- Handle naming consolidation properly, ie. Ryzen 2xxx series Tctl needs right now be renamed in HWiNFO to match 1xxx and 3xxx series

 

[Perscitus]

Firmware ver.03.23.35 is out (dated Sep-1st).

Appears to be the final firmware for the 2020 CX series boxes. 'We are sharing the final S/W of LG OLED AI released as a new model in 2020.'

Changelog as useful as ever:
'Improvement of minor issues related to software (03.23.35)'

Thx LG, much wow.

 

[Porter_]

Thx LG

We’ve already talked about it a few times in this thread but honestly kudos to LG for the phenomenal support.

 

[peppergomez]

For some reason after doing a Windows reinstall last week and unplugging then replugging the digital audio cable from the LG 48cx into my Logitech speakers, when I choose Realtek as the audio option I Windows, the audio plays through my laptop speakers and not the Logitech speakers. In the LG settings, I have selected Optical as the audio option, ditto on the Logitech. Not sure what the problem is here, or if its a Windows things or a setting on the LG 48cx. Can anyone assist?

 

[elvn]

For starters, I'd re-seat the optical cable. They can be touchy. You might want to try a new optical cable too. See if the housing/port for the optical cable is loose on either end. Also check to see if it is lit at the end you plug into the tv.

Go into the tv settings and check all the audio options in there. Make sure you have the latest drivers installed for your audio device on the laptop. You might have to manually go to the mfg website and download them. The audio device might have a settings panel. Make sure you are on digital audio out.

Check these settings:
https://superuser.com/questions/1095458/windows-10-and-realtek-optical-output-5-1-dts-how-to-enable

These pages might also be worth looking at:
https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/...y-digital-live-dts-interactive.228612/page-11

[LG webOS TV] – Sound output options


-------------------

I don't know the ports on your laptop and I'm assuming it's not possible for your machine but If at all possible, I'd use hdmi audio and not optical out.