ASUS/BENQ LightBoost owners!! Zero motion blur setting!

That was a motion smoothness rating, not a motion clarity rating. I should have, clarified. :D

The 144 Hz Asus has very "smooth" feeling motion, but of course the motion clarity does not compare to the FW900. Maybe a 6 or 7 out of 10.

Good to know. Eagerly waiting your review of the Benq :) My finger is hovering over buy from Amazon right now tho =] (£220 delivered is a steal).
 
One thing to mention was that in Pixperan I could read the scrolling text line on the FW900 at it's fastest setting of 30. The Asus HE I had set at 149 Hz I could read up around a speed of 15. The 130 Hz Catleap I have, around 12.

If I can read the speed setting of 30 on this 1ms 144 Hz Benq with Lightboost I have inbound, I will be floored.
 
Good to know. Eagerly waiting your review of the Benq :) My finger is hovering over buy from Amazon right now tho =] (£220 delivered is a steal).

Where is it 220 pounds delivered? Do you live in the UK? Mine ended up being 199 pounds with 51 pound shipping to the US, or about $404.
 
I'm in the UK yes. That price is on Amazon.co.uk (they aren't listed as the primary seller). I don't think you can buy from .co.uk tho. At least I can't from .com.
 
Ya, I just went with overclockers.uk. I've ordered many things from them as they don't charge us yanks VAT so it helps a lot. I think the 1ms 24" Asus 144Hz will come out around ~$450, so the $404 for the Benq shipped from England isn't bad.
 
The backlight runs at 360hz @ 120hz (432hz for 144hz). I'd guess the strobe frequency is fixed at that speed.
That's the non-lightboost PWM strobe rate. So, yes, the strobe rate isn't a problem. PWM has been using high frequencies (e.g. 360Hz or 420Hz). However, doing a single strobe per refresh, reduces brightness a lot. And doing one strobe per refresh does annoying flicker at lower refresh rates, costs more to do extra LED brightness (and potentially creates lots of complaints if done by default). Monitor manufacturers are probably leery of doing single strobes per refresh without a good reason (e.g. 3D, and cost premium of the LED's needed). However, as long as it's a setting like LightBoost is, and if it can be simplified & marketed better...

A strobe length adjustment would be a pretty nice hack for a LightBoost2 monitor.
I wonder if it's possible to program the strobe lengths via software hacking over DDC.

BTW -- ETA for YouTube video: By Tuesday
But I'll do one better for January. I've actually ordered a USBee-compatible oscilloscope, which is now in the mail. I'm going to connect a photodiode to it, and get some screenshots of the strobe graph (X axis = time in sub-millisecond increments, Y axis = display brightness) I will post these graphs on my BlurBuster.com Blog sometime during January. We'll know the exact strobe lengths of LightBoost2 for each refresh rate (100, 110, 120) by then!
 
Last edited:
I should clarify - the VG278HE was returned a while ago, so my rating is based solely on normal 144hz use.
You should have tried the LightBoost2 trick.
I agree with the ratings being quoted in this thread.
-- The motion blur on the VG278H is normally only a 6 starts out of 10 (compared to a CRT).
-- However, when I force-enable LightBoost2 during 2D mode, the motion blur is 9 stars out of 10. I can't see any motion blur except at the very fastest motion.
 
If I can read the speed setting of 30 on this 1ms 144 Hz Benq with Lightboost I have inbound, I will be floored.
Please keep us updated!
I think you will be able to read it, no problem.

It's very possible that the 144Hz monitors will have a slightly better "zero motion blur" effect (you'll probably a GTX680 SLI or similiar though...!)
Also, PixPerAn, seems a little wonky under Windows 8 (falls to 30fps), you may need to connect a Windows XP computer to it, to run PixPerAn smoothly at 120Hz.

I only have the VG278H (120Hz), not the VG278HE (144Hz). It's very hard to pick up a HE in person in Canada, so I settled for an H in stock, on sale at Canada Computers.
 
Last edited:
Oh ya my computer in my sig runs my games on my 1440P monitor all 130+ FPS, so 1080P should be a walk in the park.

I wonder if NVIDIA tells manufactures how long to strobe their LED's with Lightboost or if it is up to them. The Benq also is a brighter screen than the Asus's (most likely due to being smaller), so that should help in the brightness area too. I think whichever monitor ends up having the shorter strobe (if different) may end up being the best.
 
How fast of a camera do I need in order to test strobe length? I know you said the Asus is 2.5ms strobe. With my Benq inbound, curious if it is the same, faster, or slower since the strobe length can really determine the motion blur reduction capabilities.
A better way to measure is to use an oscilloscope connected to a photodiode. A simple USBee or USBee clone oscilloscope, can provide you with pretty graph screenshots that's more-or-less microsecond accurate. You don't need a high-end oscilloscope capable of hundreds of megahertz, or even gigahertz, to do simple oscilloscope measurements of LCD screens with a photodiode. For bloggers like me who want to do tests, a cheap $50 oscillscope (clone price, not original USBee price) will do for this type of basic measurements, you'll still get sub-millisecond resolution.

If you want a high speed camera for testing strobe length measurements, try the Casio 1000fps cameras (e.g. EX-FC200), Nikon V1, Fuji X10, or even the 1200fps camera (Casio EX F1). You will get VERY POOR quality (224x64 pixel postage stamp size) at 1000fps, but it's good for testing things like strobes, input lag behaviours, etc. Example of high speed video testing of input lag. Even these cheap consumer high speed camera start at $300 and go way up, and the studio use many-thousand-dollar cameras to get HD video at 1000fps. I must admit, though, Casio Exilim EX-FC200 mainly because it's a really high quality camera, very fast, good low light, and low shutter lag, with manual overrides ( manual exposure in a point and shoot). It's a reasonably good everyday camera costing only 300 on eBay, the cheapest 1000fps camera worth its salt for this type of testing. That said, the EX-FC200 is mainly available in Japan, so I had to order online. Even though I got it cheifly because it has convenient full-frame 480fps (captures 8 frames of a single 60Hz refresh, or 4 frames of a single 120Hz refresh) with bonus support for 1000fps (even if just a 'thin sliver').

That said, I would not bother unless you're a blogger/reviewer/writer.

Thanks,
Mark Rejhon
BlurBusters.com Blog
 
Last edited:
Ya, the USB oscilloscope sounds like the best way. If you are interested, I could send you a deposit for the oscilloscope, you send it to me, I take the Benq measurement then send it back and you refund deposit. If you get a break of a week or so not needing it.
 
Good idea. You know, I might buy a 2nd "mail-around" oscilloscope for people to benchmark their own monitors and add it to a BlurBusters.com database.
Incentivized in some way.
 
Would be a lot easier than one person buying all the different monitors and trying to send them back after testing, lol.
 
Would be a lot easier than one person buying all the different monitors and trying to send them back after testing, lol.

Damn you Vega. I just ordered a Benq XL2411T from Overclockers.uk. :cool:

You got me all excited in these last few posts. I'm going to buy a GTX 670 SLi setup to run it as well.

I want CRT like gaming back!
 
This is driving me crazy, i cannot get pixperan to work, it crashes and says "pixperan_english has stopped working"

EDIT: Is there some weird trick to get it working in windows 7? I see its a really old program. Google finds nothing.
 
Sounds more like a problem with your system. Either driver or hardware instability. It works fine in Windows 7.
 
Before we proceed any further, I need to understand if what you are seeing is the same thing I am seeing. Is it two full-strength double images, or one strong image, one faint afterimage? Also, if the double image is about 5 or 10 pixels apart, during fast motion and about 2-3 pixels apart during slow motion, you are seeing what I am also seeing.
-- The full strength double image at 60fps@120Hz is completely normal and an effect of human eye tracking on 60fps@120Hz. This also happens on CRT. Why this happens, I will explain below.
-- The faint ghost image (1% strength) at 120fps@120Hz is a pixel persisrence effect, about the same weakness as image leaking between two eyes of shutter glasses. It is only barely noticeable, and only on edges between certain colors.

I'm seeing double image, not persistence (I have that too in the lower part of the screen, but it's not what bothers me)

The only way to do this is to use a 60 Hz strobe backlight, flickering like a 60 Hz CRT.

The double image effect happens at. 60fps@120Hz is the same double image effect seen at 30fps@60Hz. Human eyes are continuously tracking, regardless of the frame behavior on screen. Your eyes have moved forward in the time between the two strobes. Your human eyes are in different positions when the strobes happens. Voila. Double image effect. CRT users are familiar with seeing this effect, of half framerate of refresh rate, causing a double image effect. This effect does not usually happen on normal LCD. It is normal.

You might be right. I have not seen a CRT in a very long time, I don't remember how 42fps looked when playing at 85hz. (at least I think that was the number vsync was cutting to)
Maybe the strobe is commanding the eyes to track.

I need to see the effect before explaining it. Did you turn on motion interpolation during video playback? That would explain it (60fps converted to 120fps). Does the screen look like it flickers more? Maybe you successfully glitched the strobe backlight into functioning at 60 Hz. If so, this is good news. Reducing strobe to 60Hz would explain the effect with FireFox too.

So; can you tell me: What does the control panel say for refresh rate when you do this "glitch"? The other theory is that, somehow, black frame insertion is now happening (every other frame is now blacked out) due to a frame buffer flipping glitch that also essentially hides every other strobe. If so, that means one strobe per actual displayed refresh and would cause the 60fps@60Hz zero motion blur effect.

I'd REALLY like to reproduce this. Can you tell me if you're now seeing increased flickering? This will be the major clue.

Actually it's much simpler. It's just 3d mode (the one used for movies and games).
Basically I fooled the monitor and glasses to stay active.

Refresh rate is still 120hz.
I can see the picture if I close either eye when using the glasses. (one for the right, one for the left)

To reproduce, make sure you are in standard 2d blurry mode, and then:
- enable 3d vision
- start a game in 3d
- alt+tab out of it

For me the glasses continue to shutter. (I am now in 3d desktop)
- to keep the glasses active and switch to 2d mode use the ctrl+T shortcut

I have to say that the lightboost 3d mode and 2d mode are a bit different.
When the desktop is in 3d, dragging a window will display 2 images (they get out of sync really fast). If I disable 3d by using the shortcut (ctrl + T) the window looks perfectly clear again.

Sure enough if I playback the video without the glasses I get smooth double images (3d or 2d mode).
If I put on the glasses my brain converges the images and makes the movement look smooth, with no double.

I am not sure what this proves. I might the eyes or brain fooling me.
I for one am hoping this is a driver issue, since that is fixable... my eyes on the other hand, aren't, ha ha.

To create 60fps video (to view at 120hz) just use fraps to record at 60fps.


Ultimately, one way of testing this would be with Mark's 1000fps camera by shooting the monitor while playing 60fps scrolling gameplay or video (or even firefox middle click scrolling)
If the picture jumps between even and odd frames back and forth there is a driver or display issue. If the even and odd frames are in the same spot, then the eyes are to blame.
 
Last edited:
I can confirm this works on BENQ XL2420TX

EDIT: And OMG i can play scout so much better now in TF2, this is borderline cheating.
 
Last edited:
I can confirm this works on BENQ XL2420TX
EDIT: And OMG i can play scout so much better now in TF2, this is borderline cheating.
Wonderful! Welcome to the brave new era of zero motion blur LCD gaming! :D

Tell me more about your zero motion blur experience. We need more testimonials here! Have you ever gamed on CRT's and how would you compare it?
 
Its honestly easy to miss and im not sure why. The difference in the readabilty test in PixPerAn is night and day, but im guessing that's because its at 120fps solid. It's quite noticeable especially when the gameplay involves quick movement and turning. The benefits seem to go away after it goes below 60fps, and i mean gone, just isn't there anymore.

I gamed on CRT's up until about 5 years ago at 100hz, however i use them at work still at 85hz.
 
Its honestly easy to miss and im not sure why. The difference in the readabilty test in PixPerAn is night and day, but im guessing that's because its at 120fps solid.
Are you able to read text even at the maximum speed? Also, with a strobed backlight and a framerate matching refresh rate, motion blur is directly proportional to strobe length, instead of refresh rate.

It's quite noticeable especially when the gameplay involves quick movement and turni. The benefits seem to go away after it goes below 60ps, and i mean gone, just isn't there anymore.
I find that happens on a CRT too, when you're running at say, only 40fps @ 100Hz. The zero motion blur effect is gone.
So you need a powerful GPU to match framerate = refresh rate, for the "zero motion blur" effect. Just like in the CRT days (The "perfect feel" of 60fps @ 60Hz)

My LightBoost2 strobing works well at 100Hz, so if my GPU can't keep up at 120fps, at least I have an option to run at 100fps@100Hz instead.
 
Has anyone tried setting custom timings to say 121 or 119 Hz to see if Lightboost still works? I was thinking maybe the driver only allows if at set EDID refresh rates like 100/110/120.

No one with a 144Hz Asus has tested this out yet? :eek:
 
Has anyone tried setting custom timings to say 121 or 119 Hz to see if Lightboost still works?
Nada, nada, nada -- any custom resolution (Even -inbetweens such as 115Hz) immeditely extinguishes the LightBoost2 strobes. Sadly! You're stuck with the predefined refresh rates above 60Hz for LightBoost. I'd love to have 85 Hz LightBoost2 for Crysis because that way, I don't need as powerful a GPU to get the zero motion blur effect for some games. Although at 85Hz, the strobe lengths will probably become longer, and that will cause more motion blur. Perhaps it can be "hacked"; some of us will need to try.

As for 144Hz, someone reported it worked on a VG278HE at 120Hz. I don't know which forum. But someone said it worked at 120 Hz. Not sure of 144Hz.

However, someone says it works fine on the Benq XL2420T
 
Readabilty on the test ends at 8 without lightboost. With lightboost i'd say it ends at 20, but i almost want to say its less readable because the font size is too small, and its just too quick to see.
 
Add me to the oscilloscope list.

One thing to keep in mind is that the 3D modes have different colours.

I would be interested in this if there was a glossy 3D Vision 2 display.
 
If this 1ms Benq that I ordered works great with Lightboost 2D, I will most likely do the wet paper towel AR removal and apply a glossy 3M film.
 
Readabilty on the test ends at 8 without lightboost. With lightboost i'd say it ends at 20, but i almost want to say its less readable because the font size is too small, and its just too quick to see.
I think it's monitor dependant if different LightBoost2 monitors have different strobe lengths. For strobes of 1/500sec, and with human eyes that can track fast enough, you could go very far beyond 20. At higher speeds, it is almost becoming a human eye test on a CRT, even at 20, so the same human needs to compare a CRT and the LCD. A person like Vega, with experience going all the way to 30, will need to try this and report back. Not all of us can even reach 30 on a CRT simply because it's too fast for some people, even though there's no motion blur.
 
Last edited:
Ya, 30 on my FW900 was fun. The text goes from one side to the other in like 1 second. If I focus I can see it clearly and no blur. The key is keeping your eyes fixed and moving your head with the text. Must be my 20 years of FPS playing. ;)
 
It needs mentioning that pixperan runs at a different speed at different refresh rates. It still moves the same number of pixels per frame, but obviously you get 2 frames and twice the distance traveled at 120hz vs 60hz. Look at the 60 second clock. It's counting down at twice the normal speed. Comparisons should be done with a CRT at 120hz.

I can get to about 25 on a CRT @ 120hz. My eyes simply can't track much faster :) The best I've ever got from an LCD at 120hz was 8.
 
Haven't checked the display forum listing in awhile, (just my user CP subscribed threads). This is an interesting read. Definitely interested but I hate AG/matte displays.
.
I'd like to remind people that from what I've always read, plasma TV's somewhat similarly strobe the backlight 10x per frame which is why they quote their 60hz input as being a 600hz display. They are reputed to have smoother looking motion/less blur than most lcds. I don't own one but have been in enough online conversations and reading about them to have heard the claims. The "240hz" lcd tv's I've seen have a lot of artifacts and strange effects(outlines, trails, etc) when both interpolation to 120hz + strobing to 240hz are enabled. All tv's are 60hz input in the back though presently of course.
.
Higher hz input at very high fps will make things move smoother because there is better motion tracking, something like more dots on a dotted line per given length, or more pages turned per second on a page-flip animation of an arrow crossing the page --- more specifically, more in-between or "tween" frames shown rather than the arrow moving any faster across the page. That doesn't mean less blur on an lcd monitor but it is usually part of the equation when combined with other blur-reducing factors and technologies. I'd be happy with much reduced blur at 120hz if I had to trade off from 144hz personally. I'd also trade off from ips and higher rez/ppi if I had to but that is my personal taste, and considering the fact that I use more than one monitor type at my desk.
.
Personally I'd like a glossy display capable of Lightboost2. Too bad my samsung 750 doesn't support it. I'm also curious of how well low TN response times , aggressive Response Time Compensation, and the resulting much faster RTC error disappearance at 120hz ties in with Lightboost2. The reported readability of "20" on pixelperan scrolling text sounds like a pretty good nod to that though.
 
Last edited:
I used to work in the home theater industry as a software developer, so some corrections...
I'd like to remind people that from what I've always read, plasma TV's somewhat similarly strobe the backlight 10x per frame which is why they quote their 60hz input as being a 600hz display. They are reputed to have smoother looking motion/less blur than most lcds.
With the zero motion blur modification, the LightBoost2 tweaked monitors has much less motion blur than the world's fastest plasma displays when gaming at 120fps@120Hz. I've been to the store and saw the Panasonic 2500Hz FFD (that's far more than the plain jane 600 Hz drive), and it's hamstrung by the RG phosphor decay which is 5 milliseconds. The LightBoost2 strobes are far shorter than that, and it really shows to my eyes.

Also, multiple strobes per refresh does not improve motion blur. You need ONE strobe per pixel per refresh, or you don't get the zero motion blur effect. However, plasmas DO have far less motion blur than traditional LCD.

I don't own one but have been in enough online conversations and reading about them to have heard the claims. The "240hz" lcd tv's I've seen have a lot of artifacts and strange effects(outlines, trails, etc) when both interpolation to 120hz + strobing to 240hz are enabled. All tv's are 60hz input in the back though presently of course.
I've seen those too, and the LightBoost2 monitors are far superior. It's night and day. I hope this tech arrives in HDTV's. Unfortunately, they don't support native 120Hz (only 60Hz input) because full-screen strobes are extremely flickery at 60Hz. So they need motion interpolation, which has artifacts and input lag. That's also some of the artifacts you are seeing.

Since 120fps@120Hz is "pure" and it's a simple strobe, there's absolutely no motion interpolation artifacts on these LightBoost2 monitors. You're getting a "better-than-Motionflow" effect, and WITHOUT motion interpolation artifacts, and WITHOUT added input lag. Sweet -- the best of all worlds.

Mind you, there are still (minor) artifacts, but it's no worse than CRT phosphor ghosting (albiet a very different artifact: razor-sharp faint 1% ghost edge chasing after a razor-sharp edge during fast motion)

Higher hz input at very high fps will make things move smoother because there is better motion tracking, something like more dots on a dotted line per given length, or more pages turned per second on a page-flip animation of an arrow crossing the page --- more specifically, more in-between or "tween" frames shown rather than the arrow moving any faster across the page.
Only if they are true interpolated frames (like the Panasonic plasma which uses motion-interpolated subfield refreshes). The cheap "600Hz" plasmas just repeat the same frame 10 times in a ramping-up subfield strobes; subfields are used for the purpose of temporal dithering. They DO NOT always improve motion.

That doesn't mean less blur on an lcd monitor but it is usually part of the equation when combined with other blur-reducing factors and technologies. I'd be happy with much reduced blur at 120hz if I had to trade off from 144hz personally.
CRT users know 60fps@60Hz looks much sharper than 120fps@120Hz on traditional LCD. Once you begin to strobe the backlight, things behave very differently. Motion blur becomes directly proportional to strobe length, so you get far less motion blur using 1 millisecond strobes at 85fps@85Hz, than with 4 millisecond strobes at 120fps@120Hz. Science & References.

Personally I'd like a glossy display capable of Lightboost2. Too bad my samsung 750 doesn't support it. I'm also curious of how well low TN response times , aggressive Response Time Compensation, and the resulting much faster RTC error disappearance at 120hz ties in with Lightboost2. The reported readability of "20" on pixelperan scrolling text sounds like a pretty good nod to that though.
I think it goes up to "25" now, but it depends on the person's ability to track eyes.

Most 3D displays usually require response time compensation (And force-lock that setting, which is why you cannot adjust it when 3D is enabled), but there are other tricks that can be done.

From my Scanning/Strobed Backlight FAQ, even a common monitor still has smearing of pixel persistence between frames, often for 30ms or 40ms, even though the panel is rated for, say, 16ms:

displaymateblocks.jpg

(Reference: DisplayMate Technologies)

You need to erase all trailing effects, by using aggressive response time acceleration technologies. You need to have perfectly-as-possible-refreshed frames before the end of the refresh. And do that in the dark (backlight turned off) so you don't see the pixel persistence or overshoot effects. So that you can flash the backlight behind the LCD panel (like CRT flicker) so that a perfectly clear, perfectly refreshed image gets seen by your eyeballs, with no pixel persistence (if possible). This is the way to bypass pixel persistence on a modern LCD: a fast-refreshing LCD that clears pixel persistence before the end of the same refresh, AND a powerful backlight that's bright and fast enough to strobe very brightly and quickly.

The fact active shutter glasses 3D LCD's are here, means LCD's have to refresh faster between frames, conveniently also makes zero-motion-blur LCD possible. Hand in hand.

Yes, the erasure of pixel persistence is still not perfect (yet). But it's getting better and better. They have to, because of 3D: Less leakage between eyes. The monitors with the best 3D (less crosstalk between eyes) will also be the superior zero motion blur monitors. So the 1ms monitors are starting to show better quality for zero motion blur, by erasing more of the tiny remnants of pixel persistence.

60hzTraceFreeChart.png

(Credit: NCX)

You pretty much want to strobe backlight at the exact moment where you have minimum artifacts (least pixel persistence, least ghost, least pixel bounce from overshoot, etc). It's possible to time the strobes during an exact moment in the RTC bounciness -- e.g. right when the pixel passes near its exact final value, but before it overshoots (corona). So you're strobing after pixel persistence ghosting, but before the overshoot. So in theory you've got less artifacts than if you weren't using strobing. But it's not all perfect, because not all pixels shoot through their final values all at the same time, so it's tricky to choose when to strobe the backlight.
Alternatively, LCD monitor makers can just wait-out the pixel persistence (e.g. 2ms pixel persistence in dark, then 5ms of idle in dark to let pixels settle, then strobe for 1ms, during a 1/120sec (8ms) refresh). There are many, many, many tricks that LightBoost2 monitor makers can experiment with for lowering response-time-acceleraiton artifacts.

The good news is that on many new panels, the LCD frame looks is pretty clear and perfect motion with just very faint artifacts (and it'll only get better, as better 3D panels come out) -- because the LCD makers have aggressively worked to make the panels refresh fast enough to make 3D shutter glasses possible (and made zero motion blur LCD possible as a side effect)
 
the LightBoost2 tweaked monitors has much less motion blur than the world's fastest plasma displays when gaming at 120fps@120Hz

Good to hear. I wasn't trying to say that plasma tech was the exact same (as LB2), I just wanted to bring it up since it also uses strobing and results in less blur.

Since 120fps@120Hz is "pure" and it's a simple strobe, there's absolutely no motion interpolation artifacts on these LightBoost2 monitors. You're getting a "better-than-Motionflow" effect, and WITHOUT motion interpolation artifacts, and WITHOUT added input lag. Sweet -- the best of all worlds.

I wasn't trying to say 120hz input monitors used any kind of interpolation, I just brought up the other TV tech I knew of that uses strobing since I brought up tvs. I'll take your word that LB2 strobing does not produce any trailing or other odd effects to the fastest eyesight. That is good to hear too. I'm one of the people who could see DLP rainbows, and can see most other display tech faults like odd trailing and ghosting.


Higher hz input at very high fps will make things move smoother because there is better motion tracking, something like more dots on a dotted line per given length, or more pages turned per second on a page-flip animation of an arrow crossing the page --- more specifically, more in-between or "tween" frames shown rather than the arrow moving any faster across the page.
Only if they are true interpolated frames (like the Panasonic plasma which uses motion-interpolated subfield refreshes). The cheap "600Hz" plasmas just repeat the same frame 10 times in a ramping-up subfield strobes; subfields are used for the purpose of temporal dithering. They DO NOT always improve motion.

I was talking about 120hz input pc gaming monitors at that point, not plasmas. plasma would have a 60hz input. To be more direct, I was mentioning it in relation to the 144hz being smoother than 120hz, etc. in an attempt to clarify smoother motion tracking as opposed to reduction of FoV movement blur/smearing in games. The next thing you quoted me on was also intended to be in regard to these being two different things (hz itself providing "smoother" feel -> increased refinement/definition of motion tracking vs. hz + other combined effects/techs producing reduced screen blur/smearing).

You pretty much want to strobe backlight at the exact moment where you have minimum artifacts (least pixel persistence, least ghost, least pixel bounce from overshoot, etc). It's possible to time the strobes during an exact moment in the RTC bounciness -- e.g. right when the pixel passes near its exact final value, but before it overshoots (corona). So you're strobing after pixel persistence ghosting, but before the overshoot. So in theory you've got less artifacts than if you weren't using strobing. But it's not all perfect, because not all pixels shoot through their final values all at the same time, so it's tricky to choose when to strobe the backlight.
Alternatively, LCD monitor makers can just wait-out the pixel persistence (e.g. 2ms pixel persistence in dark, then 5ms of idle in dark to let pixels settle, then strobe for 1ms, during a 1/120sec (8ms) refresh). There are many, many, many tricks that LightBoost2 monitor makers can experiment with for lowering response-time-acceleraiton artifacts.


The good news is that on many new panels, the LCD frame looks is pretty clear and perfect motion with just very faint artifacts (and it'll only get better, as better 3D panels come out) -- because the LCD makers have aggressively worked to make the panels refresh fast enough to make 3D shutter glasses possible (and made zero motion blur LCD possible as a side effect)

Lots of good news. Thanks for all the posts I found them very informative and detailed, incl both the explanations and the photos.
 
I wasn't trying to say 120hz input monitors used any kind of interpolation, I just brought up the other TV tech I knew of that uses strobing since I brought up tvs. I'll take your word that LB2 strobing does not produce any trailing or other odd effects to the fastest eyesight.
I didn't say that. I've mentioned a few times that there is the faint 1% ultra sharp trailing image chasing after a sharp moving image. It's similiar to the crosstalk between eyes in 3D shutter glasses. Better 3D LCD's will make better zero motion blur LCD's.

What I am saying, is the trailing artifacts are not completely gone, but to my eyes, the trailing looks 99% gone compared to a regular 60Hz LCD. If you've used 3D shutter glasses, and have seen the inter-frame crosstalk (left eye leaking into right eye), you also get the inter-frame crosstalk during zero motion blur 2D. Instead of the crosstalk showing up horizontally apart during 3D separation (when doing 3D), during zero motion blur 2D usage, the faint crosstalk that occurs is the separation between two adjacent frames along the vector of the motion (e.g. 8 pixels apart at 960 pixels per second at 120Hz, separated along the motion vector). It's an artifact of remnant pixel persistence that leaks into the next frame (which is only, say, 99% perfect by the end of a refresh).

Another way to explain it: Instead of it being a blurry ghost, it's a razor-sharp (and much fainter) trailing ghost "double image". The faint ghost double image has zero motion blur in it; it's a perfectly sharp (but faint) ghost image chasing after a sharp image. A lot of it doesn't show up because it only shows on high-contrast edges, and only between certain colors. If you hated 3D crosstalk, you might notice. But newer monitors do a better job of 3D, and thus, also do a better job of zero motion blur 2D. Carefully selecting the best 3D monitor (least amount of 3D crosstalk, i.e. probably one of the "1ms" monitors), will also automatically give you less of this artifact during zero motion blur 2D usage, too. Just like NCX's photograph of the PixPerAn car; sharp-but-ultrafaint ghost image chasing behind a sharp fast-moving moving object (no longer motion-blurred by eye tracking on sample-and-hold). It looks roughly as if Trace-Free is locked to 60 when LightBoost2 is enabled, and thus, the ghost strength is roughy similar. A faint ghost with no motion blur in it, not visible at all in most game scenery (i.e. motion looks perfect in normal usage). Since I don't see the crosstalk in most games that are able to run at 120fps, the "perfect" in the perfect motion effect reflects average game usage for games successfully running well-synchronized 120fps@120Hz, reflecting the well-known zero motion blur trait of CRT's.

Also, to temper some expectations, color quality is slightly degraded in LightBoost2, as I've already written earlier (was it page 3 or 4 of this thread). IPS enthusiasts won't be lucky to have strobed backlight technology yet... It's a TN panel, and the strobing seems to bring out some minor inversion artifacts (see Lagom Inversion Pattern -- specific kinds of sub-pixel patterns flash very strangely when you scroll the browser while LightBoost2 is enabled) but this doesn't show up in regular material. Carefully watching things, Inversion artifacts do show up extremely faintly when I scroll black text very rapidly on white background. Fortunately, there's no temporal dithering artifacts or anything (common for plasma and DLP) which bothers me far more. If you want read more about my descriptions of the artifacts, check page 3 (I think) of this thread. If you are uncomfortable with DLP projector rainbows even with a 6X color wheel (360Hz) in the best home theater projectors, then you might hate LightBoost, which operates at only 120Hz, but there's no stroboscopic color-changing effects, no temporal dithering effects, the color is stable and solid, you keep that LCD trait. (even if not as good color gamut as a really good CRT, yet)

None of this, to discourage people, of course.
Motion blur (when game successfully runs at 120fps@120Hz) -- it's better motion than plasma, and looks more similar to CRT than a plasma. And night-and-day versus 60Hz LCD.
120Hz versus 120Hz+LightBoost makes a bigger difference than 60Hz-versus-120Hz.
 
Last edited:
120Hz versus 120Hz+LightBoost makes a bigger difference than 60Hz-versus-120Hz.

I think they're equally important in making a difference as far as gaming goes. Although you can't really argue about that, since these variables vary from person to person.

For example. In TF2 i can tell instantly when 60hz is on vs 120hz.

However, i have in the past several times have accidently left 3D on and have never noticed the blur reduction, granted i knew it was left on right away since it was stupidly bright and so i just turned it off right away. It's the little things that really make this Lightboost hack shine.

--Twitch shooting (Wow!)
--Reading floating 3d text in an FPS.
--Diablo 3 reading item names on the floor while moving. I often would have to stop moving just to read, now i see them instantly.

EDIT: Also i did briefly have some time to watch some video, that stuff is genuinely crisp now. Although i still will watch video on my plasma, it's bigger and quick enough. Never been too picky about that.
 
Is there a list of video cards this will work with? I'd like to keep my 580 if possible
 
Is there a list of video cards this will work with? I'd like to keep my 580 if possible
You need 120fps@120Hz for the best zero motion blur effect. You could lower to 100fps@100Hz. You might be fine with older games, e.g. Source Engine at slightly lower detail level. You won't be playing Crysis with zero motion blur on a 580, or even a single 680.

EDIT: Don't forget to raise fps_max (at the console) in source-engined games. Probably best to use a number at least double the refresh rate.
 
Last edited:
You need 120fps@120Hz for the best zero motion blur effect. You could lower to 100fps@100Hz. You might be fine with older games, e.g. Source Engine at slightly lower detail level. You won't be playing Crysis with zero motion blur on a 580, or even a single 680.

I see, I was wondering if it was limited to the 6 series.
 
Back
Top