24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

UnrealCpu

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There isn't a pot that controls it. It's micro-controller controlled.
ok thats what i figured. I do see two pots what are they for?

Also can i use windows 10 to interface with windas? i have the usb interface

and also have the color meter. Want ed to follow space diver tutorial but no faqs
 
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Hey I've used the guide for my HP P1130 which worked when I chose SONY CPD G520 in WIndas.
Only Problem now with argyll on Win XP and Win 10 when I try the last step to lower gamma this one command there first the calibration in CMD works but then when it ususally should start the calibration I get errors something like access denied(is it in use?)
But it isn't in use checked everything so the problem must be from another nature.
Do you know about that Problem with the LUT Adjustment
 

SH1

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ok thats what i figured. I do see two pots what are they for?

Also can i use windows 10 to interface with windas? i have the usb interface

and also have the color meter. Want ed to follow space diver tutorial but no faqs

You are maybe seeing pots related to horizontal pin cushion? (Invaluable when I first got an F520 and it came misaligned in that regard.)
 

jbltecnicspro

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You are maybe seeing pots related to horizontal pin cushion? (Invaluable when I first got an F520 and it came misaligned in that regard.)

The only pots I’m aware of are the horizontal pin cushion and horizontal trapezoid on the deflection yoke (or is that the FW-900?) and the focus pots on the fly back.
 

spacediver

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Hey I've used the guide for my HP P1130 which worked when I chose SONY CPD G520 in WIndas.
Only Problem now with argyll on Win XP and Win 10 when I try the last step to lower gamma this one command there first the calibration in CMD works but then when it ususally should start the calibration I get errors something like access denied(is it in use?)
But it isn't in use checked everything so the problem must be from another nature.
Do you know about that Problem with the LUT Adjustment
The switches I think need to be updated. Instead of what the guide recommends, try this:

dispcal -m -qm -J -F -G2.4 -f0

(u can use 2.2 instead of 2.4 if you want the image slightly lighter).

Let me know if that solves your problem.
 
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The switches I think need to be updated. Instead of what the guide recommends, try this:

dispcal -m -qm -J -F -G2.4 -f0

(u can use 2.2 instead of 2.4 if you want the image slightly lighter).

Let me know if that solves your problem.
Sadly it is still giving me the following errors:
usb_open_port: open '\\.\libusb0-0002' config 1 failed (2) (Device being used ?)
usb_open_port: open '\\.\libusb0-0002' config 1 failed (2) (Device being used ?)
dispcal: Error - new_disprd() failed with 'Instrument Access Failed'
 

spacediver

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what colorimeter are you using? And did you use the drivers that come bundled with latest version of HCFR? (which should be same driver as latest version of argyllCMS).

(and this might sound like silly question, but did you plug in colorimeter to main pc when doing the argyll step?)
 
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what colorimeter are you using? And did you use the drivers that come bundled with latest version of HCFR? (which should be same driver as latest version of argyllCMS).

(and this might sound like silly question, but did you plug in colorimeter to main pc when doing the argyll step?)
I use a DTP94 and it is connected to main PC and the drivers I use are from argyll usb folder and HCFR worked fine with that.
So yeah the argyll version is the latest and I got the drivers from there
 

UnrealCpu

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Well got my G520k setup in windas, I guess i will try to follow the guide . Any pointers? Everything shows normal in maintenance. Still need to configure my i1display pro with software , using windows xp hope this isnt a pain with drivers

What program should I start with to calibrate?
 
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UnrealCpu

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well after investigating my G2 level it is already at 108.

My main issue is warm up time, no horizontal lines and really not bad . After 25 -40 min everything is inky black and color and convergence is fine . I was wondering what you guys think could be the issue with the G520k ? Is there a part or resistor I can fix to help with the G2 issue during warmup?


What am i missing here?
 

UnrealCpu

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I am already past the inside of the monitor

what is the fix for excessive brightness at startup? Changing the drive or ABL? I will be testing again in a few hours, to see what warmup will be like , lowered g2 , four points

have inky blacks , great contrast and color. I am coming from calibrated OLED C9 , i1display pro pc monitors. Not too concerned about calibrating yet or checking it.
 

Strat_84

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I am already past the inside of the monitor

what is the fix for excessive brightness at startup? Changing the drive or ABL? I will be testing again in a few hours, to see what warmup will be like , lowered g2 , four points

have inky blacks , great contrast and color. I am coming from calibrated OLED C9 , i1display pro pc monitors. Not too concerned about calibrating yet or checking it.
You've been told what to do. Perform a white point balance procedure. You've been told changing the G2 value manually is bad, just like messing randomly with values inside Windas.

Don't want to listen ? Fine, you're on your own. :stop:
 

UnrealCpu

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You've been told what to do. Perform a white point balance procedure. You've been told changing the G2 value manually is bad, just like messing randomly with values inside Windas.

Don't want to listen ? Fine, you're on your own. :stop:

Explain the engineering and technical reason why white balance procedure is the issue for a warm up issue? You are no help , how about answering my questions

talk to my hand n ow
 

XoR_

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You've been told what to do. Perform a white point balance procedure. You've been told changing the G2 value manually is bad, just like messing randomly with values inside Windas.

Don't want to listen ? Fine, you're on your own. :stop:
Does doing WPB affect in any way warm-up period?


what is the fix for excessive brightness at startup? Changing the drive or ABL? I will be testing again in a few hours, to see what warmup will be like , lowered g2 , four points

have inky blacks , great contrast and color. I am coming from calibrated OLED C9 , i1display pro pc monitors. Not too concerned about calibrating yet or checking it.
This is not an issue you can fix. It is feature to make monitor color-ready a bit faster. You know, instead of 1-5 min like on any other CRT it takes on these Trinitrons >30min 🤯
 

Strat_84

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Does doing WPB affect in any way warm-up period?
It can't be of any harm, and he was explicitely wanting to change the G2 value so ...

On a G520 I'm not even sure there should be significant changes in brightness with warmup, it's not like that model had the same silly drift-correction trick that makes the screen brighter during warm-up on the FW900/G500 and clones.
 

jbltecnicspro

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Does doing WPB affect in any way warm-up period?



This is not an issue you can fix. It is feature to make monitor color-ready a bit faster. You know, instead of 1-5 min like on any other CRT it takes on these Trinitrons >30min 🤯

My Viewsonic CRT takes about 15-20 mins to be fully on point. It’s sharp and bright so I don’t think it’s an aged component thing.

All that to say... it is what it is. This monitor doesn’t elevate the black levels initially though. The monitor literally gets brighter over time after power on.
 
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UnrealCpu

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Does doing WPB affect in any way warm-up period?



This is not an issue you can fix. It is feature to make monitor color-ready a bit faster. You know, instead of 1-5 min like on any other CRT it takes on these Trinitrons >30min 🤯

What is WPB?

Yes I am starting to believe this issue has to do with a certain capacitor possibly? This would make sense since my monitor looks awesome when warmed up after 30 min. I just do not remember this being an issue although it would seem many Sony CRT Trinitron monitors exhibit this issue even when brand new . Reviewing older posts over a decade ago photo , cad artists would wait 30 min to edit photos on these monitors. Maybe I am wrong idk


It can't be of any harm, and he was explicitely wanting to change the G2 value so ...

On a G520 I'm not even sure there should be significant changes in brightness with warmup, it's not like that model had the same silly drift-correction trick that makes the screen brighter during warm-up on the FW900/G500 and clones.

I changed the g2 from 108 default to 104 then to 100 and at 104 . At 104 it did not do anything during a cold start and at 100 g2 I would need to recalibrate . G2 at 104 though looked better at warm up vs 108 default G2 using nokia test suite and in games. I could push my blacks alittle better , but thats just me , i am sure it needs to be looked at on the colormeter. I own a 65" oled c9 and calibrate my pc monitors so what do i know. I just know this monitor likes to push a green hue , no horizontal lines though at warm up.



My Viewsonic CRT takes about 15-20 mins to be fully on point. It’s sharp and bright so I don’t think it’s an aged component thing.

All that to say... it is what it is. This monitor doesn’t elevate the black levels initially though. The monitor literally gets brighter over time after power on.
Mine does the same and me lowering my G2 and calibrating it wont cure my issue . My CRT looks amazing after it warms up.

Not sure why people dont understand this, calibrating my monitor wont fix my cold start issue. I am starting to think a capcitor has lost capacitance somewhere on the board. Or it could be just aged parts? Or maybe someone can chime in that actually bought a sony CRT monitor brand new out of the box did it have to warm up?
 

LAGRUNAUER

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You've been told what to do. Perform a white point balance procedure. You've been told changing the G2 value manually is bad, just like messing randomly with values inside Windas.

Don't want to listen ? Fine, you're on your own. :stop:

That is the correct approach at first... If the issue still persists afterwards, then we will have to take a close look at the hardware and perform extensive tests in order to identify faulty components...

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 

LAGRUNAUER

Gawd
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What is WPB?

Yes I am starting to believe this issue has to do with a certain capacitor possibly? This would make sense since my monitor looks awesome when warmed up after 30 min. I just do not remember this being an issue although it would seem many Sony CRT Trinitron monitors exhibit this issue even when brand new . Reviewing older posts over a decade ago photo , cad artists would wait 30 min to edit photos on these monitors. Maybe I am wrong idk




I changed the g2 from 108 default to 104 then to 100 and at 104 . At 104 it did not do anything during a cold start and at 100 g2 I would need to recalibrate . G2 at 104 though looked better at warm up vs 108 default G2 using nokia test suite and in games. I could push my blacks alittle better , but thats just me , i am sure it needs to be looked at on the colormeter. I own a 65" oled c9 and calibrate my pc monitors so what do i know. I just know this monitor likes to push a green hue , no horizontal lines though at warm up.




Mine does the same and me lowering my G2 and calibrating it wont cure my issue . My CRT looks amazing after it warms up.

Not sure why people dont understand this, calibrating my monitor wont fix my cold start issue. I am starting to think a capcitor has lost capacitance somewhere on the board. Or it could be just aged parts? Or maybe someone can chime in that actually bought a sony CRT monitor brand new out of the box did it have to warm up?
Please contact me via PM when you can. Let's set up a call so we can have a full discussion as to the engineering and the why's of what many of us advised you to do...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!
 

spacediver

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I use a DTP94 and it is connected to main PC and the drivers I use are from argyll usb folder and HCFR worked fine with that.
So yeah the argyll version is the latest and I got the drivers from there
Can you post a screencap of the command you're issuing, and the error you get?

Also, try a different usb port.
 

UnrealCpu

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That is the correct approach at first... If the issue still persists afterwards, then we will have to take a close look at the hardware and perform extensive tests in order to identify faulty components...

Hope this helps...

Sincerely,

Unkle Vito!

i am sure you are best friends with him huh, you must go way back on the sony crt and windas in this thread.

Sincerely,

Grandpa Unreal! Est.2003
 
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spacediver

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well after investigating my G2 level it is already at 108.

My main issue is warm up time, no horizontal lines and really not bad . After 25 -40 min everything is inky black and color and convergence is fine . I was wondering what you guys think could be the issue with the G520k ? Is there a part or resistor I can fix to help with the G2 issue during warmup?


What am i missing here?

It's normal for trinitrons to be washed out until warmup. Every single FW900 i've used has had this "feature". My guess is that it's a crude attempt by Sony to compensate for a not-yet-warm-enough cathode.

I think this involves temporarily increasing the drive voltage until the cathode is warmed up. When that happens, the cathode is emissive enough that the target beam current can be achieved with normal (rather than the temporarily jacked up) voltages.
 

xykreilon

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Why are you being a huge cunt out of nowhere? Get the fuck outta here with that shit.
Yeah, that was bizarre. Hard to believe an adult could be so insecure.
obviously you have no clue or you would have mentioned a possible fix beside a over decade old fix tuning with windas. It is hardware related issue if the screen is perfectly fine after 30 min warmup. Doing a calibration is not going to fix it

You cannot even explain the reasoning how windas would fix the issue doing a calibration. The monitor has a green hue for 30 min and the calibration is fine. You might want to setup a conference call with your buds on this thread, since you think you are the expert of the sony crt how to replace certain caps or components to fix this common start up issue


no reason to setup a PM , you should discuss it here , its not a top secret issue . Alot of people have had this issue and no one on here can explain why. So unless you can explain the technical reasoning behind how a windas calibration will fix the 30 min green hue which in my case goes to inky black and perfect color , then you have no clue either.
So he has no clue what he's talking about, just because he wants to help in a PM instead of making redundant public posts? What a truly strange train of thought. I thought his offer to be more direct was rather generous. It's wacky to think someone would complain about it.

Also, and maybe I'm a bit late to this- but why is a green hue for 30 minutes so bad again, if colors are fine afterwards? I dunno, maybe you have a specific reason, like turning your monitor off and on often. But, to me, that seems like a nonissue for something so old. I mean, sure, it may be a general monitor-health concern. That's valid. But, otherwise, it's seemingly quite a trivial issue to get upset over.
 

xykreilon

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another useless post , obviously you are upset when you cannot provide anything meaningful to this discussion
?
I was just primarily criticizing your harshness towards someone offering help just because they wanted to do so through pm instead of public posts. I found that rude and infantile.
Also, you're suddenly thankful for a post pointing out Trinitrons generally need time to warmup, despite it not being the first post to say so to you. It was more explicit, sure, but it was saying what others had already briefly described whom you reacted condescendingly to.
 

XoR_

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The monitor has a green hue for 30 min and the calibration is fine.
Hue should not be green during warmup. It should be gray. Lower green bias or do WPB. Though how accurate WPB really is for calibration I am not sure because I never did it.
 

XoR_

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The issue of warmup period was raised. It was stated that otherwise picture is perfect. Warmup is known to be normal thing on Trinitrons. So why is there discussion about white point balance and faulty components?
 

UnrealCpu

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after conducting research It is best to check for caps that may be out of spec and replaced . The green hue or gray hue is not a calibration issue at warmup

sincerely ,

Grandpa Unreal!
 
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UnrealCpu

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It's normal for trinitrons to be washed out until warmup. Every single FW900 i've used has had this "feature". My guess is that it's a crude attempt by Sony to compensate for a not-yet-warm-enough cathode.

I think this involves temporarily increasing the drive voltage until the cathode is warmed up. When that happens, the cathode is emissive enough that the target beam current can be achieved with normal (rather than the temporarily jacked up) voltages.
Thanks looks like this is a common issue for Trinitrons and will re examine the caps on the board for anything that is out of spec. I have a tool to measure capacitance on the board. Monitor still looks amazing and will keep the G2 voltage at the same value until I feel necessary to perform a calibration in windas. I do not see any kind of green push that is out of spec when looking noikia test suite
 

UnrealCpu

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Hue should not be green during warmup. It should be gray. Lower green bias or do WPB. Though how accurate WPB really is for calibration I am not sure because I never did it.
I can try this if you feel it might help. Can you tell me where this is located in the software? oh you never did it?
 

datspike

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My friend got the Vention AFVHB, so there's a report about it.
Makes the picture blurry after 247 Mhz.
Does interlaced resolutions fine, like 1440x1080 at 160Hz or 2048x1536 at 107 Hz (244 MHz, just before that mosaic effect)
2.jpg1.jpg
 

jbltecnicspro

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Hue should not be green during warmup. It should be gray. Lower green bias or do WPB. Though how accurate WPB really is for calibration I am not sure because I never did it.

WPB should be very accurate, assuming your meter is fine. All WinDAS does is have you adjust different levels of RGB at different light outputs to match whatever color temp you're targeting.

IE - for 6500K preset it has you hit 0.313 for x and 0.329 for y and you cannot be more than +- .005 for each. For 9300K preset, 0.283 and 0.298 for x and y respectively. Same .005 tolerance. If you're within spec at the end of the procedure then it should be stupid accurate.
 

jbltecnicspro

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The issue of warmup period was raised. It was stated that otherwise picture is perfect. Warmup is known to be normal thing on Trinitrons. So why is there discussion about white point balance and faulty components?

If it's out of calibration then your monitor, on power up, will have a color cast. I agree that the quickest way to fix it is adjusting the bias in the Expert color menu. If you keep it regularly calibrated with WinDAS you shouldn't see any issues. If, after trying the WPB procedure, you cannot get it to spec, then something else is afoot.
 
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