24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

aeliusg

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There never were any pics posted so it could be so it could be entirely within specs, whatever they may be. As long as it looks good after warmup there isn't really an issue. WPB may help balance all the different numbers behind the scenes, but I haven't seen a definitive comparison between the values in the .dat from a WPB and what you get after image restoration and manual calibration, though I may have missed it. WinDAS is good to have because you can adjust everything without even popping the case pretty much.
 

melibond

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Greetings! I hope you're well :).

Since my Sony GDM FW-900 had a scratch on its screen protector, I had to remove it. The colours are undoubtebly better anyway, but I feel it wasn't worth the reflection the screen gets and the amount of extra glow the whites add to the surface of the glass.

Would anyone be able to recommend me a screen protector replacement for it ? It doesn't have to be exactly like the one it had, but it would be great if that's possible to find. I'm looking for something that is gonna do the job without being matt to the point of having a grainy/sandy looking screen aferwards.

Or... just send me whatever you know does the job.

I've been having a very hard time finding one for it. All that I could find come with some sort of privacy effect which makes the screen look dark when looking at it from an angle.

Thank you for being here to help me with this, I really appreciate this forum a lot 🙏
 

XoR_

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WPB should be very accurate, assuming your meter is fine. All WinDAS does is have you adjust different levels of RGB at different light outputs to match whatever color temp you're targeting.

IE - for 6500K preset it has you hit 0.313 for x and 0.329 for y and you cannot be more than +- .005 for each. For 9300K preset, 0.283 and 0.298 for x and y respectively. Same .005 tolerance. If you're within spec at the end of the procedure then it should be stupid accurate.

If it's out of calibration then your monitor, on power up, will have a color cast. I agree that the quickest way to fix it is adjusting the bias in the Expert color menu. If you keep it regularly calibrated with WinDAS you shouldn't see any issues. If, after trying the WPB procedure, you cannot get it to spec, then something else is afoot.
I do not have any issues other than gamut not being Rec.709 but SMPTE C but that WPB does not fix that. Only getting Radeon and using EDID emulator can help. Screen is gray during warmup. BIAS setting around 50 and GAIN near 100 with only greed being slightly reduced to hit 6500K. Brightness is at 34. It is actually slightly higher than when it is "pitch black" in pitch black room because as I found like forever ago on all CRT's trying to have black level too low actually degrade image quality and not improve it.

I do not think I need WPB at this time. If I need to correct G2 it would make sense to do it. Last time I did not have proper calibration probe. Now I have i1 Display Pro which should be good enough 🙂
 

XoR_

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Would anyone be able to recommend me a screen protector replacement for it ? It doesn't have to be exactly like the one it had, but it would be great if that's possible to find. I'm looking for something that is gonna do the job without being matt to the point of having a grainy/sandy looking screen aferwards.
Linear polarizer is much better than original AG.
I have one on my FW900 and it has much less reflections than any AG coating on any CRT I ever used. Somehow I also do not get any electrostatics. The best improvement is that it makes contrast better. Original AG and especially without AG required very specific lighting conditions and now I can have any lighting condition and black is black.

The downside is that since it has much less transmittance maximum brightness is reduced and you need much higher emission (contrast setting) to for the same luminance.
Also applying it to the screen can be quite hard. I got one with adhesive and it was very tricky to apply and I actually failed. Air bubbles thankfully are not really that visible. Polarizer without adhesive should be easier to apply somehow but I have not tested it.
 

melibond

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Linear polarizer is much better than original AG.
I have one on my FW900 and it has much less reflections than any AG coating on any CRT I ever used. Somehow I also do not get any electrostatics. The best improvement is that it makes contrast better. Original AG and especially without AG required very specific lighting conditions and now I can have any lighting condition and black is black.

The downside is that since it has much less transmittance maximum brightness is reduced and you need much higher emission (contrast setting) to for the same luminance.
Also applying it to the screen can be quite hard. I got one with adhesive and it was very tricky to apply and I actually failed. Air bubbles thankfully are not really that visible. Polarizer without adhesive should be easier to apply somehow but I have not tested it.
Thank you Xor, I appreciate your reply. Would any Linear polarizer do ? Or would you be able to recommend me one ?
 
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/Seattle-WA...but-color-Issue-READ-DESCRIPTION/184508056108

Think the screen is fixable?
s-l1600.jpg
 

UnrealCpu

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There never were any pics posted so it could be so it could be entirely within specs, whatever they may be. As long as it looks good after warmup there isn't really an issue. WPB may help balance all the different numbers behind the scenes, but I haven't seen a definitive comparison between the values in the .dat from a WPB and what you get after image restoration and manual calibration, though I may have missed it. WinDAS is good to have because you can adjust everything without even popping the case pretty much.
Yes the monitor looks outstanding. Convergence /color /contrast etc. I own a i1display pro and have been calibrating monitors for over 5 years and the G520k I have after warmup looks outstanding. Of course the only thing i have to compare it to is a calibrated asus 34" predator 4k and a OLED C9 65". The black levels rival my oled .

I might look into what the current calibration is but will first re examine the capacitor's on the board to ensure they are at the proper specs. The G520k you have to pop the case to get to the rs232 port and it is only a few screws to take off the shield.
 

UnrealCpu

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Does doing WPB affect in any way warm-up period?



This is not an issue you can fix. It is feature to make monitor color-ready a bit faster. You know, instead of 1-5 min like on any other CRT it takes on these Trinitrons >30min 🤯


Yeah no one can confirm a good source for a fix. I would think it has something to do with the aged circuitry. Obviously no one on here is a real sony technician or engineer that knows how to fix this issue.

Also these trinitrons have been known to do this brand new out of the box , and even researching old forums , photo /graphic artists would wait 30 min prior to editing photos or even doing cad using this type of monitor
 

3dfan

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UnrealCpu:

my fw900 also takes about 30 min to warmup to display proper blacks at fixed osd settings, (greenish before that) and its a 2003 model, so it makes me strongly believe its definitely not a defect issue other but rather a desing fact, i have not heard the first fw900 owner ever claiming his monitor displays instant blacks when turned on and does not take that time to warmup, if this is your concern, only "fix" way i see for this is to have patience and wait for the warmup time, or well, pick color temp from expert menu, lower to minimum all "brightness" (black level) equivalent settings from it: (bias) and set "brightness" setting from the osd menu to 0, that way you would get almost instant blacks when turning on the monitor until it warms up, after that you will have to rise and restore those settings otherwise get massive crushed blacks., i have asked myself that question: how would did designers that used fw900 for their professional task do to use this monitor properly during warmup since its really useless for them during warmup, patience if the only thing than comes to my mind, (or maybe they pre-turned it on when arriving to office, or leave the monitor tuned on the entire night with a black background and all brigntness - contrast expert etc settings low?? who knows.)

just for reference, i took a while ago a couple of pictures of my monitor, when recently turned on (warming up) and after a while when being already warmed up, so if what concers you is if you see your monitor image quality as ugly as mine is in the recent turned on picture: greenish, 0 blacks, its normal behaviour on fw900s, not an issue on your model..... well, again, assuming i understood well your concern thinking its greenish blackless looking during warmup is an exclusive issue from your monitor.
IMG_20200708_103859.jpgIMG_20200707_092735.jpg
 
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jbltecnicspro

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I do not have any issues other than gamut not being Rec.709 but SMPTE C but that WPB does not fix that. Only getting Radeon and using EDID emulator can help. Screen is gray during warmup. BIAS setting around 50 and GAIN near 100 with only greed being slightly reduced to hit 6500K. Brightness is at 34. It is actually slightly higher than when it is "pitch black" in pitch black room because as I found like forever ago on all CRT's trying to have black level too low actually degrade image quality and not improve it.

I do not think I need WPB at this time. If I need to correct G2 it would make sense to do it. Last time I did not have proper calibration probe. Now I have i1 Display Pro which should be good enough 🙂

To clarify - I'm not trying to convince you to do anything. Just answering the question. "Stupid accurate" meant white balance only. Yes, it's a SMPTE-C monitor and thus not quite Rec 709. We've discussed this and beat this horse to death over and over and over again.
 

UnrealCpu

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UnrealCpu:

my fw900 also takes about 30 min to warmup to display proper blacks at fixed osd settings, (greenish before that) and its a 2003 model, so it makes me strongly believe its definitely not a defect issue other but rather a desing fact, i have not heard the first fw900 owner ever claiming his monitor displays instant blacks when turned on and does not take that time to warmup, if this is your concern, only "fix" way i see for this is to have patience and wait for the warmup time, or well, pick color temp from expert menu, lower to minimum all "brightness" (black level) equivalent settings from it: (bias) and set "brightness" setting from the osd menu to 0, that way you would get almost instant blacks when turning on the monitor until it warms up, after that you will have to rise and restore those settings otherwise get massive crushed blacks., i have asked myself that question: how would did designers that used fw900 for their professional task do to use this monitor properly during warmup since its really useless for them during warmup, patience if the only thing than comes to my mind, (or maybe they pre-turned it on when arriving to office, or leave the monitor tuned on the entire night with a black background and all brigntness - contrast expert etc settings low?? who knows.)

just for reference, i took a while ago a couple of pictures of my monitor, when recently turned on (warming up) and after a while when being already warmed up, so if what concers you is if you see your monitor image quality as ugly as mine is in the recent turned on picture: greenish, 0 blacks, its normal behaviour on fw900s, not an issue on your model..... well, again, assuming i understood well your concern thinking its greenish blackless looking during warmup is an exclusive issue from your monitor.
View attachment 293278View attachment 293277
Thanks Man!
I appreciate your response and the fact I was right all along that this could not be a calibration issue. I have the same type of hue color during a cold start.. Thanks for mature response and yes it only occurs during a cold start up . This is definitely not a calibration issue and glad someone stepped up to provide actual proof. My monitor does not stay like this after 20-30 min and not sure how I never noticed this as an issue when i purchased it back in 2004. I thought maybe moving it somehow damaged the monitor during a move, but now that I think about it , maybe I just got spoiled with LCD then LED technology and never really thought about it as an issue.
Thanks again!
 

Strat_84

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UnrealCpu:

my fw900 also takes about 30 min to warmup to display proper blacks at fixed osd settings, (greenish before that) and its a 2003 model, so it makes me strongly believe its definitely not a defect issue other but rather a desing fact, i have not heard the first fw900 owner ever claiming his monitor displays instant blacks when turned on and does not take that time to warmup, if this is your concern, only "fix" way i see for this is to have patience and wait for the warmup time, or well, pick color temp from expert menu, lower to minimum all "brightness" (black level) equivalent settings from it: (bias) and set "brightness" setting from the osd menu to 0, that way you would get almost instant blacks when turning on the monitor until it warms up, after that you will have to rise and restore those settings otherwise get massive crushed blacks., i have asked myself that question: how would did designers that used fw900 for their professional task do to use this monitor properly during warmup since its really useless for them during warmup, patience if the only thing than comes to my mind, (or maybe they pre-turned it on when arriving to office, or leave the monitor tuned on the entire night with a black background and all brigntness - contrast expert etc settings low?? who knows.)

just for reference, i took a while ago a couple of pictures of my monitor, when recently turned on (warming up) and after a while when being already warmed up, so if what concers you is if you see your monitor image quality as ugly as mine is in the recent turned on picture: greenish, 0 blacks, its normal behaviour on fw900s, not an issue on your model..... well, again, assuming i understood well your concern thinking its greenish blackless looking during warmup is an exclusive issue from your monitor.
View attachment 293278View attachment 293277
As it has already been said before, while the FW900/G500 series are brighter on startup by design, the G520 series don't have the extra transistor that causes this. They can't be compared.

Please, don't feed him.
 

UnrealCpu

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As it has already been said before, while the FW900/G500 series are brighter on startup by design, the G520 series don't have the extra transistor that causes this. They can't be compared.

Please, don't feed him.
please go away you are wrong. calibration is not the issue. you talk about transistors but have no knowledge of the mainboard or engineering of the board.
 

XoR_

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just for reference, i took a while ago a couple of pictures of my monitor, when recently turned on (warming up) and after a while when being already warmed up, so if what concers you is if you see your monitor image quality as ugly as mine is in the recent turned on picture: greenish, 0 blacks, its normal behaviour on fw900s, not an issue on your model..... well, again, assuming i understood well your concern thinking its greenish blackless looking during warmup is an exclusive issue from your monitor.
View attachment 293278View attachment 293277
That doesn't look right.
My FW900 measures slightly more green during warmup but otherwise it is nowhere what is shown on this picture and by eye it is gray.
After warmup I have fairly consistent 6500K with DeltaE up to 0.6 on worst measurement on gray scale. Gamma is only slightly above 2.3 which is perfect.
Contrast ratio is 2373:1 (~99.5 white, 0.042 black) at contrast 77. It is kinda possible to go to 120cd/m2 but 100 is plenty bright imho.
 

aeliusg

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It's probably dependent on temperature and humidity and such. My opinion is that if the thing looks good after it stabilizes it should be fine, that's my penny for ya. Going to end up causing more problems trying to diagnose things on the basis of descriptions of what other people are seeing with their naked eyeballs.
 

UnrealCpu

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It's probably dependent on temperature and humidity and such. My opinion is that if the thing looks good after it stabilizes it should be fine, that's my penny for ya. Going to end up causing more problems trying to diagnose things on the basis of descriptions of what other people are seeing with their naked eyeballs.
I agree,

My monitor looks as good as my OLED C9 for black levels and contrast when it comes to low res, convergence is perfect and text is small and clear at 1600x1200 which is kinda high for this monitor anyway , unless you have a FW900. I usually stay at 1280x1024 i think is the res. Other than that the whole main concern was the excessive greenish hue and brightness during warm up which is considered normal for these monitors.

are you all saying if I do a calibration adjustment that this green warm up will be more grayish and the monitor will warm up faster so this monitor can be used normally within 5-10 min? The whole goal is remove the green hue/brightness , I am not convinced windas will fix this issue.

I might take a look at the caps, it is well known even on sony PVMs that having old caps with reduced capacitance , out of spec basically will cause all sorts of issues. But no one on here is real sony tech to really give advice which caps on the mainboard could cause certain issues to happen.
 

XoR_

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are you all saying if I do a calibration adjustment that this green warm up will be more grayish and the monitor will warm up faster so this monitor can be used normally within 5-10 min? The whole goal is remove the green hue/brightness , I am not convinced windas will fix this issue.
If you get big Trinitron you need to accept 30min warmup. Simple as that.
This is how my fw900 measures. Upper part is after monitor stabilized and second immediately after turning it on.
zQdtNkC.jpg
As can be seen green is excessive. It is however so little change that black still looks gray during startup.

My monitor looks as good as my OLED C9 for black levels and contrast
It is simply not true.
CRT do not have all that great contrast ratio. Depending on scene it can seem pretty good, eg. dark scenes with little bright objects, but on bright scenes good IPS has better contrast ratio because: a) black level rises more the more bright stuff on screen b) there are bright halos around bright objects
Then if you calibrate CRT incorrectly eg. make black screen not emit any light then most content will have tons black crush - literally darker details won't be visible. Also such incorrect calibration does not make black objects "inky" black on bright scenes. It does absolutely nothing except screwing up gamma and causing black crush.

Besides, even my Panasonic plasma has vastly better contrast ratio than any CRT so I do not believe you that nay CRT can be on par with OLED. Simple as that 🙂
 

xykreilon

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I have an issue where the top half of my ViewSonic G90f will go black as a very bright horizontal white line quickly swoops down to the middle of the screen.
20201008_160342.jpg
20201008_160336.jpg

It only seems to happen at high horizontal scan rates, which is worrisome. Any ideas as to what this might be? It happens very seldom and very irregularly, and it doesn't usually last long enough for me to snag a pic. These ones are from weeks ago.
 

XoR_

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Thank you Xor, I appreciate your reply. Would any Linear polarizer do ? Or would you be able to recommend me one ?
Maybe https://3dlens.com/linear-polarizer-film-620x1000mm.php ?
It is not so much recommendation as it is "only one I could find". I got mine from some local auction few years ago.

Some people investigated other solution but apparently it is hard to find anything good as most darkening sheets are not quite the quality required for this sort application and do not remove reflections.
Anyone found anything interresting?
 

xykreilon

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That's "verical collapse". It can definitely be fixed. Google for some methods.
I see, thanks. From what I've read, it's an issue with vertical deflection caused by failure of the vertical IC chip.
According to this article: https://riddledtv.com/journal/Vertical/ - I can fix the chip by re-soldering the bad connections. Would that be easier than just finding and buying a new, compatible chip?
 

Enhanced Interrogator

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I see, thanks. From what I've read, it's an issue with vertical deflection caused by failure of the vertical IC chip.
According to this article: https://riddledtv.com/journal/Vertical/ - I can fix the chip by re-soldering the bad connections. Would that be easier than just finding and buying a new, compatible chip?
I have no clue, I've never had the problem myself, just seen it in reddit posts and stuff. Search r/crtgaming maybe
 

Strat_84

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I see, thanks. From what I've read, it's an issue with vertical deflection caused by failure of the vertical IC chip.
According to this article: https://riddledtv.com/journal/Vertical/ - I can fix the chip by re-soldering the bad connections. Would that be easier than just finding and buying a new, compatible chip?
It might work, but only if the problem is a bad connection.
Vertical deflection chips I know have both a negative and positive power supply, having half of the screen displayed properly and the other one crushed could mean either the chip missing one of these supplies, or the chip is damaged. Hence it outputs only the negative or positive part of the waveform it is supposed to output.
 

UnrealCpu

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If you get big Trinitron you need to accept 30min warmup. Simple as that.
This is how my fw900 measures. Upper part is after monitor stabilized and second immediately after turning it on.
View attachment 293576
As can be seen green is excessive. It is however so little change that black still looks gray during startup.


It is simply not true.
CRT do not have all that great contrast ratio. Depending on scene it can seem pretty good, eg. dark scenes with little bright objects, but on bright scenes good IPS has better contrast ratio because: a) black level rises more the more bright stuff on screen b) there are bright halos around bright objects
Then if you calibrate CRT incorrectly eg. make black screen not emit any light then most content will have tons black crush - literally darker details won't be visible. Also such incorrect calibration does not make black objects "inky" black on bright scenes. It does absolutely nothing except screwing up gamma and causing black crush.

Besides, even my Panasonic plasma has vastly better contrast ratio than any CRT so I do not believe you that nay CRT can be on par with OLED. Simple as that 🙂
i see
I only meant to compare an oled to my calibrated IPS 4k computer monitor to my G520k . I have owned flag ship plasmas since 2009 and went OLED around 2016 and since I do own a TCL LED with HDR I can tell when a picture looks like crap.

I am sure my OLED C9 is a hella alot better than any CRT made, Well its good to know I would be wasting my time with calibration. My black levels are inky black at warmup and my blacks do not look crushed.
 

xykreilon

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It might work, but only if the problem is a bad connection.
Vertical deflection chips I know have both a negative and positive power supply, having half of the screen displayed properly and the other one crushed could mean either the chip missing one of these supplies, or the chip is damaged. Hence it outputs only the negative or positive part of the waveform it is supposed to output.
I see, ok.
What does it mean if the vertical collapse happens only every so often, yet seemingly more often with higher horizontal scan rates, vs. being constantly vertically collapsed as long as the CRT is on- like in most of the examples I found on the net?
Is it possible to repair this issue if it's how you describe it and not just a bad solder joint?
 

jbltecnicspro

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I see, ok.
What does it mean if the vertical collapse happens only every so often, yet seemingly more often with higher horizontal scan rates, vs. being constantly vertically collapsed as long as the CRT is on- like in most of the examples I found on the net?
Is it possible to repair this issue if it's how you describe it and not just a bad solder joint?

I would just look up the part in question and see if you can get it ordered. Otherwise, as Strat_84 has said, you can check the connections and resolder them if you want. My money is on bad vertical deflection IC, as in you'll be replacing the part. Hopefully I'm wrong and it's just a cold solder joint or something.
 

xykreilon

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OLED C9 is a hella alot better than any CRT made
Not in terms of motion clarity. It'll take awhile before any display is truly comparable. We've reached comparable black levels with OLED. We've reached comparable input latency with modern gaming TN LCDs. But, we have not reached low enough pixel transition or reset times to have comparable motion clarity. That'll likely require a fast OLED or MicroLED with well implemented strobbing- LCD has definitely reached its limit. We're close, but not quite there yet.
 

xykreilon

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I would just look up the part in question and see if you can get it ordered. Otherwise, as Strat_84 has said, you can check the connections and resolder them if you want. My money is on bad vertical deflection IC, as in you'll be replacing the part. Hopefully I'm wrong and it's just a cold solder joint or something.
Alright. I'm curious how much life I can get out of it without replacing the IC chip, though. Even if I find the right part (no clue where to look yet btw), I'd probably hold off swapping it out just to see how long things would last. Unless that could cause issues for other components, then I'd swap ASAP
 

jbltecnicspro

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Not in terms of motion clarity. It'll take awhile before any display is truly comparable. We've reached comparable black levels with OLED. We've reached comparable input latency with modern gaming TN LCDs. But, we have not reached low enough pixel transition or reset times to have comparable motion clarity. That'll likely require a fast OLED or MicroLED with well implemented strobbing- LCD has definitely reached its limit. We're close, but not quite there yet.

It's coming. Frankly, I think it's been fun to watch CRT continue to stay relevant, no matter what the nay-sayers say. :)
 

jbltecnicspro

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Alright. I'm curious how much life I can get out of it without replacing the IC chip, though. Even if I find the right part (no clue where to look yet btw), I'd probably hold off swapping it out just to see how long things would last. Unless that could cause issues for other components, then I'd swap ASAP

Honestly, you just fix the parts that you can. While you're in there I suppose you could recap some things but I wouldn't touch anything else unless you feel it necessary. Easiest thing to do now would be to strip it down and resolder the leads to the IC and see if that improves things. If there's obvious cold joints or cracking or whatever, then it could actually help. If not? I doubt it, but it's worth trying if you're comfortable doing it.
 

xykreilon

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It's coming. Frankly, I think it's been fun to watch CRT continue to stay relevant, no matter what the nay-sayers say. :)
Yeah haha. I'll still keep CRTs around when a display finally objectively trumps them in every way (minus flexible native resolutions. That's just physically impossible with anything other than a CRT atm), because of how legendary CRTs' decades of relevance were. Something to be remembered. :smuggrin:
 

xykreilon

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Honestly, you just fix the parts that you can. While you're in there I suppose you could recap some things but I wouldn't touch anything else unless you feel it necessary. Easiest thing to do now would be to strip it down and resolder the leads to the IC and see if that improves things. If there's obvious cold joints or cracking or whatever, then it could actually help. If not? I doubt it, but it's worth trying if you're comfortable doing it.
Alright
 

jbltecnicspro

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Yeah haha. I'll still keep CRTs around when a display finally objectively trumps them in every way (minus flexible native resolutions. That's just physically impossible with anything other than a CRT atm) because of how legendary their decades of relevance were. Something to be remembered. :smuggrin:

Most of my friends shit on CRT until they see it in action. Oh yeah... they actually were/are that good. :)
 

spacediver

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Thanks looks like this is a common issue for Trinitrons and will re examine the caps on the board for anything that is out of spec. I have a tool to measure capacitance on the board. Monitor still looks amazing and will keep the G2 voltage at the same value until I feel necessary to perform a calibration in windas. I do not see any kind of green push that is out of spec when looking noikia test suite
While the 30 min warmup is normal and not calibration related, I'm not sure about the green cast. There are two steps when setting G2 in the windas procedure - one of them involves the green gun. I'm calibrating my monitor within the next five weeks, and when I do, I'll do an experiment - changing the green G2 level to two wildly different values (while keeping everything constant), and seeing the impact this has (both on warmed up color, and pre-warm up color).

There's probably a parameter that controls this variable, and you could potentially implement it the same way you'd implement a normal G2 fix (i.e. using windas to load modified dat file). That way, you don't need to go through the whole colorimeter process.
 

jbltecnicspro

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While the 30 min warmup is normal and not calibration related, I'm not sure about the green cast. There are two steps when setting G2 in the windas procedure - one of them involves the green gun. I'm calibrating my monitor within the next five weeks, and when I do, I'll do an experiment - changing the green G2 level to two wildly different values (while keeping everything constant), and seeing the impact this has (both on warmed up color, and pre-warm up color).

There's probably a parameter that controls this variable, and you could potentially implement it the same way you'd implement a normal G2 fix (i.e. using windas to load modified dat file). That way, you don't need to go through the whole colorimeter process.

Not sure what you're talking about in regards to the G2. I don't think there's a separate G2 for any of the guns. That's the grid 2 voltage for the tube. Are you thinking of something else? (It *has* been awhile since I've done any WinDAS WPB's :D ).
 

xykreilon

Weaksauce
Joined
Jul 22, 2020
Messages
100
Most of my friends shit on CRT until they see it in action. Oh yeah... they actually were/are that good. :)
Hahaa. My friend recently got a laptop with a 240Hz screen and brought it over for some LAN. Of course, it still just couldn't compete with 720p 125Hz of my G90f in terms of motion clarity. Though, he was actually impressed with the colors more than that. But, that's probably just cause his screen wasn't calibrated and mine is. The 94% sRGB coverage of my G90f might have really been better than his stock screen.
 
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