LG 48CX

Yep, the G-sync fix made this screen the ultimate screen for me. It's so smooth and low lag now. Best PC related purchase I ever made imo.

What kind of errors are you seeing though? That shouldn't be happening. If you're in EU, I highly recommend the kabeldirekt Ultra HD cables, I've used both the 2m and 3m and they have been flawless. (edit: Looks like they also sell those in the US on amazon.)
At 10bpp, the screen exhibits one of three behaviors:
  1. No image displayed at all
  2. Screen flashing / re-sync... frequency from once every few seconds to 1-2 times per second e.g. extreme
  3. Brief intermittent Horizontal lines of garbage displayed (seemingly single pixel) randomly
The HDMI diag page shows errors for (2) and (3). I was seeing the exact same behaviors at 120/8bpp with older HDMI cables. I purchased aforementioned "8K" cables from a local store ($9 or so) and the 8bpp is utterly stable now but 10bpp is still marginal. I noticed that of the two otherwise identical cables I purchased, one behaves better than the other so there clearly are some tolerances at work here. I've ordered a couple of well reviewed cables on Amazon (and 6ft, which turned out to be all I need) which I expect will solve the issue.
 
At 10bpp, the screen exhibits one of three behaviors:
  1. No image displayed at all
  2. Screen flashing / re-sync... frequency from once every few seconds to 1-2 times per second e.g. extreme
  3. Brief intermittent Horizontal lines of garbage displayed (seemingly single pixel) randomly
The HDMI diag page shows errors for (2) and (3). I was seeing the exact same behaviors at 120/8bpp with older HDMI cables. I purchased aforementioned "8K" cables from a local store ($9 or so) and the 8bpp is utterly stable now but 10bpp is still marginal. I noticed that of the two otherwise identical cables I purchased, one behaves better than the other so there clearly are some tolerances at work here. I've ordered a couple of well reviewed cables on Amazon (and 6ft, which turned out to be all I need) which I expect will solve the issue.
I noticed difference in error rate also from how the cable was angled/rotated on the plug, even when I switched ends got different behavivour, also little difference on different hdmi ports.
 
I noticed difference in error rate also from how the cable was angled/rotated on the plug, even when I switched ends got different behavivour, also little difference on different hdmi ports.
I suspect the protocol has error correction of some sort because some errors are normal. Most electrical signals do, you just may not have a way to view that errors are happening. PCIe has error correction for example. I think looking at the screen when you aren't noticing any problems will just make you paranoid ;)
 
I suspect the protocol has error correction of some sort because some errors are normal. Most electrical signals do, you just may not have a way to view that errors are happening. PCIe has error correction for example. I think looking at the screen when you aren't noticing any problems will just make you paranoid ;)
You are right, but there should be some ammount which is normal and which is too high and could cause issues. So you could be on the edge with the error rate, it could work for hours and just randomly drop just because of more intereference from your environment.
 
Any help here would be super appreciated. I'm right on the line of ordering the CX 48 but I'm very nervous that it will be too large of a display to comfortably use as a monitor. For those of you using one, what size is the depth of your desk or how far are you sitting away from the screen? I want to be able to play FPS games comfortably and don't want to be forced to move my head to see the edges of the screen (or another example, the start button to the X close button in the top right). Any pictures of setups would be cool too.
 
Any help here would be super appreciated. I'm right on the line of ordering the CX 48 but I'm very nervous that it will be too large of a display to comfortably use as a monitor. For those of you using one, what size is the depth of your desk or how far are you sitting away from the screen? I want to be able to play FPS games comfortably and don't want to be forced to move my head to see the edges of the screen (or another example, the start button to the X close button in the top right). Any pictures of setups would be cool too.
At 4 to 5 feet, it feels like a 27" 4K monitor.
 
Any help here would be super appreciated. I'm right on the line of ordering the CX 48 but I'm very nervous that it will be too large of a display to comfortably use as a monitor. For those of you using one, what size is the depth of your desk or how far are you sitting away from the screen? I want to be able to play FPS games comfortably and don't want to be forced to move my head to see the edges of the screen (or another example, the start button to the X close button in the top right). Any pictures of setups would be cool too.
yeah about 100-110 cm is good. best is just wallmount or put it on different table. You can image it just like 4x 24 inch 1080p monitors.
 
My screen surface is sitting 15" back from the front edge of my main long rectangular desk. I have a smaller width circular kidney shaped desk butted up against that one with about 1" overlapping. I end up sitting 40" to 45" regularly, maybe 48" at times (depending how I have my chair) away with no problems. That's probably in the THX recommended 45deg to 50deg viewing angle and it keeps the perceived pixel density from looking too jumbo at that distance.

I thought I might have to roll my circular peripheral/command desk farther back before I got the OLED but it turns out that if the screen was any smaller I'd actually have to move it closer on the rectangular desk it's on. I ended up pushing my caster wheeled desk right up against the monitor desk and even overlapping it 1". The fact that I can keep my seated desk so close is nice for keeping the room looking more spacious (it's a relatively small room) , but considering how easily I can roll my desk back I probably could have gotten away with using a 55" CX for $250 cheaper and just rolling back another foot. I'm still very happy with the setup though. Any smaller and I think letterboxed videos or uw game resolutions would be too small for me and my particular setup.
 
Any help here would be super appreciated. I'm right on the line of ordering the CX 48 but I'm very nervous that it will be too large of a display to comfortably use as a monitor. For those of you using one, what size is the depth of your desk or how far are you sitting away from the screen? I want to be able to play FPS games comfortably and don't want to be forced to move my head to see the edges of the screen (or another example, the start button to the X close button in the top right). Any pictures of setups would be cool too.
My desk is only 80 cm. I initially had it on a monitor arm which allowed me to put it at roughly 85-90 cm viewing distance. I have since moved to using a floor stand and that works far better at about 100-110 cm viewing distance. It feels more comfortable like that. I use 120% scaling to get a font size that I find comfortable.
 
Any help here would be super appreciated. I'm right on the line of ordering the CX 48 but I'm very nervous that it will be too large of a display to comfortably use as a monitor. For those of you using one, what size is the depth of your desk or how far are you sitting away from the screen? I want to be able to play FPS games comfortably and don't want to be forced to move my head to see the edges of the screen (or another example, the start button to the X close button in the top right). Any pictures of setups would be cool too.
I'm similar to the above posts. I have an 80cm deep desk. I had to get an aftermarket stand to push it back far enough on my desk - so it's just about 70cm from the edge of my desk now, and about 80cm from myself. I used to have it around 10cm closer to me and that was just a tad too close. I'm finding 80cm to be the sweet spot for myself personally. I used to have a 32" 1440p and the PPI is basically the same, so using it as a workstation monitor at this distance is great - it's basically like 2.5x 30" in portrait mode next to each other.

At this distance I can comfortably mouse+kb game fullscreen, although it took me a little bit of time to get used to. For controller and watching content, I just scoot back and it's perfect. It's also possible to play games at 1440p non-scaled by the way - which is equivalent to a 32" screen, if you find the size too large for FPS games. This is probably ideal for comp gaming (although if you're really serious, a dedicated 240hz 24" TN is probably the way to go).
 
I wonder if you use this as a monitor, watch Youtube videos like normally do, with video window on the left and other stuff list on the right, where titles are white font etc - would that burn in with time?
Normally you can watch videos 10-20 minutes long, then maybe switch, so those other items list on the right would stay there for 20 minutes, then switch to different content, but still would be displaying the lists titles etc
What do you think? Would it burn in that right side area?
Would it be bad to have some static content on for 20-30 minutes, here and there, maybe 10 times a day, 3-4 days a week - trying to summarise usual monitor use - would that burn in with time?
Same for some white areas, empty parts of the windows open, like word doc or excel or some website, with white sides - being displayed for an hour for example, few time a week. Would that burn in too?
 
Last edited:
Probably not but your risk?? People have used their oleds with lower light settings for desktop/app stuff without too much problem over a few years but your mileage may vary. You can usually find at least few reports of some mild burn in from logos or huds, even from one or two oled proponents in this thread. The burn-in avoidance tech (ABL, ABSL, pixel shifting) has improved some over the generations though, too. Then again, there are people who are turning some of that off b/c they find it annoying. It's also worth noting that people report that the best buy extended warranty, though expensive, does cover burn in and it even states that in the extended warranty policy from what I've been told.

I've dedicated the oled to be a media and gaming "stage", with monitor(s) on the side of it in portrait for desktop/apps. That way I don't have to worry about static desktop apps normally (even though I have the BB ext warranty). For example, a 43" series 8 samsung 4k VA was just on sale for $300 over black friday/cyber monday. That would be similar to my NU6900 samsung(s) which I am using as a side desktop/app screen. That would work great as a 2nd screen for static desktop/apps imo.

I still feel the need to turn the tv off if I'm going to be away for a while because notification screens and app notifications/updates etc can pop up on the oled even when using a black wallpaper. I can use a black screensaver on that screen but crashed or bugged app notifications, app updates, file operation timeouts/issue or security windows and such can still take the top level so can be stuck there on top of the running screensaver. Another thing that can happen is you can get stuck on a frozen bios screen on random reboot, or at the windows logon screen, or if your video card ever flakes out and leaves frozen garbage signal noise on your screen. Besides that, depending on what you are doing windows can juggle some app windows off of my side monitor(s) and throw one or more of them back on the OLED (rarely). Even though most of these issues would very rarely happen, it might only take once for a long enough period of time. So for me I've been turning it off with the remote if I'm leaving for more than a bathroom or a drink afk or whatever.

Personally I wouldn't use white board office apps and static toolboxes and stuff and would opt for secondary monitor(s). If you have to ask then you are probably concerned enough that it would bother you to be using it as a desktop/app monitor. Even if the chance of burn in is slim it's not impossible that it could happen accidentally (human and/or hardware error).
 
I wonder if you use this as a monitor, watch Youtube videos like normally do, with video window on the left and other stuff list on the right, where titles are white font etc - would that burn in with time?
Normally you can watch videos 10-20 minutes long, then maybe switch, so those other items list on the right would stay there for 20 minutes, then switch to different content, but still would be displaying the lists titles etc
What do you think? Would it burn in that right side area?
Would it be bad to have some static content on for 20-30 minutes, here and there, maybe 10 times a day, 3-4 days a week - trying to summarise usual monitor use - would that burn in with time?
Same for some white areas, empty parts of the windows open, like word doc or excel or some website, with white sides - being displayed for an hour for example, few time a week. Would that burn in too?
I haven't seen a single ounce of burn-in using my CX 48 normally 8h a day. I run what I can in dark mode but occasionally may have something like a bright Excel open and bright websites are pretty normal. It's been fine. Ask me again in 2-3 years.
 
I haven't seen a single ounce of burn-in using my CX 48 normally 8h a day. I run what I can in dark mode but occasionally may have something like a bright Excel open and bright websites are pretty normal. It's been fine. Ask me again in 2-3 years.
I'm up to 1793 hours power on time on mine for work and play. 0 burn-in.
 
So after few hours with using Club3d CAC-1372 I did not get any single error in hdmi diagnostic menu (there is some value on start). It also does have a HDMI certification sticker on box and its geniue after confirmed with hdmi authority app.
With previous calbe which is local OEM brand and was just relased few weeks ago and claiming to be HDMI 2.1 I got hundreds of errors. So if anyone is looking for cable and dont want take a risk I would recomend Club3D CAC-1372.
 
I'm up to 1793 hours power on time on mine for work and play. 0 burn-in.
I personaly thing there is bigger chance that oled will just break sooner than some burn in will kick in. The consumer electronics is nowdays not made to last 5+ years and I think most of the people will just replace the TV sooner than they notice any burn in.
Many of these people will replace flagship phone every year but they are affraid to buy a TV for same money because of burn in.
 
I haven't seen a single ounce of burn-in using my CX 48 normally 8h a day. I run what I can in dark mode but occasionally may have something like a bright Excel open and bright websites are pretty normal. It's been fine. Ask me again in 2-3 years.

I'm up to 1793 hours power on time on mine for work and play. 0 burn-in.
Good to hear things like this, since I use mine for both work and play.
 
So after few hours with using Club3d CAC-1372 I did not get any single error in hdmi diagnostic menu (there is some value on start). It also does have a HDMI certification sticker on box and its geniue after confirmed with hdmi authority app.
With previous calbe which is local OEM brand and was just relased few weeks ago and claiming to be HDMI 2.1 I got hundreds of errors. So if anyone is looking for cable and dont want take a risk I would recomend Club3D CAC-1372.
Thanks for this. I’ve got a 6’ monoprice 8K 48Gbps cable coming tomorrow. Of course I won’t be able to fully test it until I can snag an HDMI 2.1 gpu....so Q1 2021 I suppose.
 
So after few hours with using Club3d CAC-1372 I did not get any single error in hdmi diagnostic menu (there is some value on start). It also does have a HDMI certification sticker on box and its geniue after confirmed with hdmi authority app.
With previous calbe which is local OEM brand and was just relased few weeks ago and claiming to be HDMI 2.1 I got hundreds of errors. So if anyone is looking for cable and dont want take a risk I would recomend Club3D CAC-1372.
Good to know. I had the Zeskit on my wishlist but I think I'll just get the Club3D cable now since there's not much price difference. Seems the Zeskit has increased in price by a few dollars since it released. I'll pay $5 more for the peace of mind of having a Certified cable but it sounds like Zeskit and Cable Matters cables might be just as good. How are you guys accessing the HDMI Diagnostics screen? I poked around in the menu and the Home screen yesterday and didn't see it, but there's probably something I missed. Lots of subtrees in there. I found the hours counter, though...1569 here.

I personaly thing there is bigger chance that oled will just break sooner than some burn in will kick in. The consumer electronics is nowdays not made to last 5+ years and I think most of the people will just replace the TV sooner than they notice any burn in.
Many of these people will replace flagship phone every year but they are affraid to buy a TV for same money because of burn in.
I agree. Just vary the content once in a while, particularly if you're using it as a monitor. People are acting as if these are fragile walk-on-eggshells displays (and maybe understandably so, given the price and the hysteria surrounding burn-in on the internet) but several of us have owned more than one OLED and have used them as monitors for work and play over the course of years with no ill effect. Not saying that it's impossible to have burn-in as obviously a few have had it in the past, but you rarely hear about what caused it (i.e. "Well, admittedly I was running it full blast with a static desktop workload for weeks") or whatever. LG has tweaked and made improvements to the panels over the years and they're pretty darn robust IMO. With that being said, I still exercise some care out of an abundance of caution but I'm to the point now where I don't live with fear of burn-in in the back of my mind like I did at first with my B7 when I was worried about having static pixels on the screen for more than a few minutes, lol.
 
Good to know. I had the Zeskit on my wishlist but I think I'll just get the Club3D cable now since there's not much price difference. Seems the Zeskit has increased in price by a few dollars since it released. I'll pay $5 more for the peace of mind of having a Certified cable but it sounds like Zeskit and Cable Matters cables might be just as good. How are you guys accessing the HDMI Diagnostics screen? I poked around in the menu and the Home screen yesterday and didn't see it, but there's probably something I missed. Lots of subtrees in there. I found the hours counter, though...1569 here.


I agree. Just vary the content once in a while, particularly if you're using it as a monitor. People are acting as if these are fragile walk-on-eggshells displays (and maybe understandably so, given the price and the hysteria surrounding burn-in on the internet) but several of us have owned more than one OLED and have used them as monitors for work and play over the course of years with no ill effect. Not saying that it's impossible to have burn-in as obviously a few have had it in the past, but you rarely hear about what caused it (i.e. "Well, admittedly I was running it full blast with a static desktop workload for weeks") or whatever. LG has tweaked and made improvements to the panels over the years and they're pretty darn robust IMO. With that being said, I still exercise some care out of an abundance of caution but I'm to the point now where I don't live with fear of burn-in in the back of my mind like I did at first with my B7 when I was worried about having static pixels on the screen for more than a few minutes, lol.
just follow this:
HDMI diagnostic screen can be accessed by going to Programmes -> highlight Programme Tuning & Settings -> Hit 1,1,1,1,1,1 on your remote. Then press right to highlight HDMI mode and click that to open the info you are looking for.
 
just follow this:
Thank you! This thread is huge now. I wish that we could update the OP with things like that, optimal PC settings, etc. in order to put all of the info in one place and make it easy to locate and refer people to.
 
My CX55 is currently at 3363 hours, and no burn-in so far.

Of note:

I keep my display at around 0-50 OLED light (except for HDR movies, which I watch at 100).
Lots of static content from work laptop (no screensaver)
For my desktop, I have a 5 minute screensaver (Mystify) with 1 hour off-time.
I vary my content between mostly youtube videos, youtube tv, games, and online forums.
I turn off the display if I'm walking away for a long time.
I run the screen refresher every couple of weeks as long as I can remember.

I have a 2 year Best Buy warranty, so if any permanent burn-in (burn-out) shows up, the panel will be repaired ASAP.
 
My CX55 is currently at 3363 hours, and no burn-in so far.

Of note:

I keep my display at around 0-50 OLED light (except for HDR movies, which I watch at 100).
Lots of static content from work laptop (no screensaver)
For my desktop, I have a 5 minute screensaver (Mystify) with 1 hour off-time.
I vary my content between mostly youtube videos, youtube tv, games, and online forums.
I turn off the display if I'm walking away for a long time.
I run the screen refresher every couple of weeks as long as I can remember.

I have a 2 year Best Buy warranty, so if any permanent burn-in (burn-out) shows up, the panel will be repaired ASAP.

I unfortunately burned in my task bar on my 55" C9 (it's minor, but can point it out if pull up a full solid-colored background). Been working from home since March due to covid, and used my OLED as a work monitor. I probably should have hid it, but it was too annoying to try to get the taskbar to popup when I'm multi-tasking dozens of tabs at any given time. It was affecting my productivity. It only took 6 months to burn in, which sucks. I've taken other precautions like most people do (monitor turns off after a few minutes, turn it off when I'm walking away, auto-changing wallpapers, etc.) but it wasn't enough. Was going to swap it out with a 48CX, but never even went on sale during Black Friday. Refuse to pay more for a 48" TV than a 55" one. Guess I'll have to wait for the 2021 model. It kind of sucks but nothing beats the picture-quality of an OLED so I have no choice. It's like owning an expensive sports car you can barely afford. Have to change your lifestyle just to protect your investment (park in the back of the parking lots, wash weekly, don't let your kids/pets near it, etc.) which unfortunately ruins the overall experience just like this TV.
 
Last edited:
what OLED brightness were you running?

I use 100 when gaming, 60 for office work. Yeah I know, it's probably too high, but I'm not some hermit in a dark basement. I'm using my TV in my gameroom with windows & other people using the room as well. Got to make due with what you got. I can't work several spreadsheets at the same time on a 15" Dell work laptop. If I knew the COVID lockdowns would last more than 14 days (as all the scientist/politicians were saying), I probably would have demanded my work to let me go into the office and steal my three office monitors. It's too late now the damage is already done.
 
Nope, not casting any stones, just finding out the numbers for a better idea of what levels and how long. You've got to use the thing, or it's not worth having. :)
 
I unfortunately burned in my task bar on my 55" C9 (it's minor, but can point it out if pull up a full solid-colored background). Been working from home since March due to covid, and used my OLED as a work monitor. I probably should have hid it, but it was too annoying to try to get the taskbar to popup when I'm multi-tasking dozens of tabs at any given time. It was affecting my productivity. It only took 6 months to burn in, which sucks. I've taken other precautions like most people do (monitor turns off after a few minutes, turn it off when I'm walking away, auto-changing wallpapers, etc.) but it wasn't enough. Was going to swap it out with a 48CX, but never even went on sale during Black Friday. Refuse to pay more for a 48" TV than a 55" one. Guess I'll have to wait for the 2021 model. It kind of sucks but nothing beats the picture-quality of an OLED so I have no choice. It's like owning an expensive sports car you can barely afford. Have to change your lifestyle just to protect your investment (park in the back of the parking lots, wash weekly, don't let your kids/pets near it, etc.) which unfortunately ruins the overall experience just like this TV.
You spend a lot of time staring at full solid-colored slides?

If not, maybe you're overreacting.
 
Unrelated to burn-in, I received a new HDMI cable and now can enjoy full 4k/120Hz/10bpp with rock solid signal quality. Cable definitely matters here... I have over a dozen cables here that I tried, from years-old to brand-new-labeled-8k and it took an entirely new one to see success.

FWIW I ordered this: Amazon.com: Zeskit 8K Ultra HD High Speed 48Gpbs HDMI Cable 6.5ft, 8K60 4K120 144Hz eARC HDR10 4:4:4 HDCP 2.2 & 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Xbox PS4 PS5 Apple TV 4K Roku Fire TV Switch Vizio Sony LG Samsung: Industrial & Scientific

I'm sure there are better, cheaper options; this one seemed to work for me.
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Random question. Has anyone ever seen the pixel refresher run automatically after turning off the TV when in PC mode?

I only ever see it when I am using a built in app like the Netflix app. When it goes to standby, it goes into the pixel refresher. I never see it run otherwise. Could be happening when I'm asleep, but I'm a little worried if something is preventing it from running (like PC mode).
 
I use 100 when gaming, 60 for office work. Yeah I know, it's probably too high, but I'm not some hermit in a dark basement. I'm using my TV in my gameroom with windows & other people using the room as well. Got to make due with what you got. I can't work several spreadsheets at the same time on a 15" Dell work laptop. If I knew the COVID lockdowns would last more than 14 days (as all the scientist/politicians were saying), I probably would have demanded my work to let me go into the office and steal my three office monitors. It's too late now the damage is already done.
I wonder how people stand a brightness of 60 all day. I'm using 20 in the day time and I even find that too bright at times. I guess it's what you're used to...
 
I wonder how people stand a brightness of 60 all day. I'm using 20 in the day time and I even find that too bright at times. I guess it's what you're used to...
Same. I'm using 0 in a moderately bright room, and I can see it just fine. If it's at 30 at night, it's almost painfully bright.

To everyone that says that the CX doesn't get bright enough... you're full of crap lol.
 
Unrelated to burn-in, I received a new HDMI cable and now can enjoy full 4k/120Hz/10bpp with rock solid signal quality. Cable definitely matters here... I have over a dozen cables here that I tried, from years-old to brand-new-labeled-8k and it took an entirely new one to see success.

FWIW I ordered this: Amazon.com: Zeskit 8K Ultra HD High Speed 48Gpbs HDMI Cable 6.5ft, 8K60 4K120 144Hz eARC HDR10 4:4:4 HDCP 2.2 & 2.3 Compatible with Dolby Vision Xbox PS4 PS5 Apple TV 4K Roku Fire TV Switch Vizio Sony LG Samsung: Industrial & Scientific

I'm sure there are better, cheaper options; this one seemed to work for me.
Same one i ordered last week.

Now just need a to upgrade my 2080ti to a 3080 or 3090.
 
As an Amazon Associate, HardForum may earn from qualifying purchases.
Random question. Has anyone ever seen the pixel refresher run automatically after turning off the TV when in PC mode?

I only ever see it when I am using a built in app like the Netflix app. When it goes to standby, it goes into the pixel refresher. I never see it run otherwise. Could be happening when I'm asleep, but I'm a little worried if something is preventing it from running (like PC mode).
How do you tell? I thought the screen just stayed black and there was no indication it was doing its thing?
 
How do you tell? I thought the screen just stayed black and there was no indication it was doing its thing?
I think you answered me... I thought that fireworks animation thing was it, but it's just the netflix screensaver. So I guess there's no way to know it's running or not.
 
I think you answered me... I thought that fireworks animation thing was it, but it's just the netflix screensaver. So I guess there's no way to know it's running or not.
Yeah if you kick it off manually it's just a black screen with the tv apparently off. If you connect the TV to a kill-a-watt or UPS where you can watch the power usage you could probably catch it doing stuff while seemingly off.
 
Ready for Cyberpunk :D


PXL_20201209_184431146(1).jpg
 
Back
Top