LG 48CX

I just got my 48cx tonight but i have doubt its an upgrade to my current pana plasma 42.
The problems i have is mainly the huge response time when using 60hz.
I have always used 60 hz since thats what the refresh rate is of the plasma.
I get super good response time. Perfect smooth motion with no blur.
And 60hz/fps means i can use max settings on games.

But now with this 48 oled using 60 hz the response time is terrible as well as motion smoothness. If i use 120hz instead its much better. Almost as good as plasma. But then i get stutter in games since my 1080ti can not keep 120fps all the time.

Why is there so much lag and stutter when using 60hz on the LG? Is there some setting i am missing?

You might want to read up a bit of the previous 51 pages in this thread...
 
Why is there so much lag and stutter when using 60hz on the LG? Is there some setting i am missing?

I think your settings are wrong. I can't believe you're noticing lag and stutter, that doesn't make sense.. it's silky smooth here. When I unboxed it, I had similar.

You need to have the TV on picture mode: "Game Mode", and turn "Just Scan: On". Those are the basics, you can tune it from there.

And in Windows, make sure your display settings are set to either 60Hz or 120Hz, RGB in your display adapter or in Nvidia Control Panel.
 
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Gotta love it
 
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I did try 1440P 120Hz 10bit - Did not care for it, It's definitely not as crisp and clean as 4K. I'll be sticking with 4K 60hz for now, once the new GPU's come out in the fall - 4K 120hz.

I tried putting the input on the TV to PC mode - cant tell a difference at all. I leave it in standard game mode personally.
 
Ori and the Will of the Wisps
Assassin's Creed Odyssey
Devil May Cry 5
Borderlands 3
Division 2

Can you try out ori with VRR at some point and see if you see any of that grey-black issue around the bright white characters on black backgrounds? or weird gradients around them? That was one of the titles someone on the avs forum thread mentioned having problems with the near-black flashing fix being bypassed when VRR is active
 
Ori and the Will of the Wisps
Assassin's Creed Odyssey
Devil May Cry 5
Borderlands 3
Division 2

I just tried Assassin's Creed Odyssey with HDR on and I must be doing something wrong because it did not look good. It turned the sun into a defined circle rather than the undefined flare it is without HDR on, and in general just looked not good... Or my brain can't handle HDR or something. I'll try Gears 5.
 
I think your settings are wrong. I can't believe you're noticing lag and stutter, that doesn't make sense.. it's silky smooth here. When I unboxed it, I had similar.

You need to have the TV on picture mode: "Game Mode", and turn "Just Scan: On". Those are the basics, you can tune it from there.

And in Windows, make sure your display settings are set to either 60Hz or 120Hz, RGB in your display adapter or in Nvidia Control Panel.

Yeah, I have the scan on. Game Mode is absolutely a no go. In that mode the lag(response input time) is perfectly good but the ghosting(ufo test) is worst of all modes. Trumotion on high fixes that but then its flickering like an old CRT aparature!
I had it set to 60 hz in nvidia CPL. Even the mouse pointer in windows is very laggy and stuttery in 60hz mode.
There must be something wrong with my settings. Cant be this bad. Imagine running a ps4 in 60hz/fps it will be unplayable,.

Anyone else have issues running it in 60 hz mode?
 
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AFAIK Control doesn't support HDR which is a shame. For AC series you need to adjust HDR peak brightness through the games menu.
 
Yeah, I have the scan on. Game Mode is absolutely a no go. In that mode the lag(response input time) is perfectly good but the ghosting(ufo test) is worst of all modes. Trumotion on high fixes that but then its flickering like an old CRT aparature!
I had it set to 60 hz in nvidia CPL. Even the mouse pointer in windows is very laggy and stuttery in 60hz mode.
There must be something wrong with my settings. Cant be this bad. Imagine running a ps4 in 60hz/fps it will be unplayable,.

Anyone else have issues running it in 60 hz mode?

Do you have ALLM on? I'm guessing no because when it's on Trumotion settings aren't available.
 
Do you have ALLM on? I'm guessing no because when it's on Trumotion settings aren't available.
Sorry, what does ALLM stand for? If it is instant game response, then yes the slider is highlighted so I suppose it is on. But how do I verify? Playing with that slider and also the deep color results in loosing signal from PC. Have to restart. Maybe something wrong there? Nivida drivers are 430 something. Maybe need and update?
I am on windows 8.1 but that should not make any difference.
 
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Sorry, what does ALLM stand for? If it is instant game response, then yes the slider is highlighted so I suppose it is on. But how do I verify? Playing with that slider and also the deep color results in loosing signal from PC. Have to restart. Maybe something wrong there? Nivida drivers are 430 something. Maybe need and update?
I am on windows 8.1 but that should not make any difference.

Automatic low latency mode, yeah it's the "Instant game response", you should get a popup in the top right when the signal hits the TV. When I have that on I lose access to all the "Picture Options" except black level and motion eye care. Do you have a 2000 series Nvidia GPU? If you don't that might have something to do with it too, I think I remember Nvidia only enabled HDMI VRR on them.
 
Automatic low latency mode, yeah it's the "Instant game response", you should get a popup in the top right when the signal hits the TV. When I have that on I lose access to all the "Picture Options" except black level and motion eye care. Do you have a 2000 series Nvidia GPU? If you don't that might have something to do with it too, I think I remember Nvidia only enabled HDMI VRR on them.
I have a 1080TI. Ok I will check this afternoon for that setting. I do however notice big difference between standard mode and game mode presets. In standard there is huge input lag in 60 hz but not in 120. In gaming mode there is huge ghosting in 60hz but not in 120. Thanks. Also going to test my ps4 on this TV. Because it is working in 60hz. If it works better than the PC regarding ghosting motion and input lag.

So my issue is the 60hz mode with this Oled. Therefore will be interesting to check with the PS4.
 
Checked with my PS4 now and 60 hz in game mode looks crap regarding movement clearity honest. For example run the game Dragons Crown 60 fps PS4. Sidescrolling in town the location texts scrolling by is very fuzzy and hard to read.
Switch to standard mode preset and there you go, perfectly clear text.
Enabling or disabling instant game response does nothing on clearity.
Problem with standard mode is the really bad response lag. Everything is sluggish, controller / mouse movement in games.

So I guess I'll have to bring the unit back to store and continue using my plasma from 2012.
Really pitty since using it with PC in 120 hz the movement clearity is perfect in game mode. But then I wont be able to keep 120 fps in all games in 1080P without lowering graphics settings.

Why on earth cant this LG handle 60 hz as well as 120 HZ???
 
Sorry, what does ALLM stand for? If it is instant game response, then yes the slider is highlighted so I suppose it is on. But how do I verify? Playing with that slider and also the deep color results in loosing signal from PC. Have to restart. Maybe something wrong there? Nivida drivers are 430 something. Maybe need and update?
I am on windows 8.1 but that should not make any difference.

The only thing different on your setup software wise is driver version and running Windows 8.1. I would not be so quick to rule out Windows 8.1. Might be worth trying 10.
 
Checked with my PS4 now and 60 hz in game mode looks crap regarding movement clearity honest. For example run the game Dragons Crown 60 fps PS4. Sidescrolling in town the location texts scrolling by is very fuzzy and hard to read.
Switch to standard mode preset and there you go, perfectly clear text.
Enabling or disabling instant game response does nothing on clearity.
Problem with standard mode is the really bad response lag. Everything is sluggish, controller / mouse movement in games.

So I guess I'll have to bring the unit back to store and continue using my plasma from 2012.
Really pitty since using it with PC in 120 hz the movement clearity is perfect in game mode. But then I wont be able to keep 120 fps in all games in 1080P without lowering graphics settings.

Why on earth cant this LG handle 60 hz as well as 120 HZ???

Plasma has very good motion handling. On LCD and OLED you have to compensate with refresh rate.

But Standard vs Game mode should not have any signficant differences in how clear they are. Check if the Trumotion settings in the depths of the Picture settings menus are different.
 
I highly recommend trying out gears of war 5 on this display. 4k 60hz 4:2:2 10bit with HDR.
Please use 4K 60 Hz RGB / YCbCr444 8-bit with dithering for HDR on a PC and dispel the myth that you need 10-bit for HDR. 10-bit is required only for 4:2:2 / 4:2:0 on consoles and Blu-ray players since dithering cannot be applied to a subsampled signal. 8-bit with high quality dithering surpasses native 10-bit in banding on most panels and doesn't suffer from fringing in text and graphics.
 
Please use 4K 60 Hz RGB / YCbCr444 8-bit with dithering for HDR on a PC and dispel the myth that you need 10-bit for HDR. 10-bit is required only for 4:2:2 / 4:2:0 on consoles and Blu-ray players since dithering cannot be applied to a subsampled signal. 8-bit with high quality dithering surpasses native 10-bit in banding on most panels and doesn't suffer from fringing in text and graphics.

Where's this dithering option?
 
Plasma has very good motion handling. On LCD and OLED you have to compensate with refresh rate.

But Standard vs Game mode should not have any signficant differences in how clear they are. Check if the Trumotion settings in the depths of the Picture settings menus are different.
Ok gonna check more settings. But been through them all. Trumotion must be off since it cause heavy flicker
I wonder what is going on with 60hz is it a bug in the lg software? Why does it need to be so much more blurry in movement?
 
Please use 4K 60 Hz RGB / YCbCr444 8-bit with dithering for HDR on a PC and dispel the myth that you need 10-bit for HDR. 10-bit is required only for 4:2:2 / 4:2:0 on consoles and Blu-ray players since dithering cannot be applied to a subsampled signal. 8-bit with high quality dithering surpasses native 10-bit in banding on most panels and doesn't suffer from fringing in text and graphics.

On my Samsung CRG9 I could not notice any difference between 8-bit 120 Hz HDR and 10-bit 100 Hz HDR, both with full RGB. That panel is 8-bit + FRC. I

think I have actually been running my CX 48" at 4K 60 Hz 8-bit and HDR has worked just fine. While technically 10-bit should give you a wider array of colors and less gradient banding, 8-bit looks just fine.
 
Where's this dithering option?
Windows automatically enables dithering when HDR is enabled if the signal is 8-bit RGB / YCbCr444. Dithering cannot be applied to a subsampled signal, which is why you cannot enable HDR at 4K 120 Hz YCbCr420 on the CX.

On my Samsung CRG9 I could not notice any difference between 8-bit 120 Hz HDR and 10-bit 100 Hz HDR, both with full RGB. That panel is 8-bit + FRC. I

think I have actually been running my CX 48" at 4K 60 Hz 8-bit and HDR has worked just fine. While technically 10-bit should give you a wider array of colors and less gradient banding, 8-bit looks just fine.
10-bit is only better if it's also RGB / 4:4:4. Even then some panels have worse banding on a native 10-bit signal compared to 8-bit with dithering at the source. On an 8-bit + FRC panel, absolutely use 8-bit with dithering at the source, since it's a waste sending 10-bit to the panel. Dithering at the source is equivalent to FRC at the panel.
10-bit 4:2:2 / 4:2:0 is worse than 8-bit with dithering RGB / 4:4:4 in every way because of fringing in text and graphics.
 
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I just tried Assassin's Creed Odyssey with HDR on and I must be doing something wrong because it did not look good. It turned the sun into a defined circle rather than the undefined flare it is without HDR on, and in general just looked not good... Or my brain can't handle HDR or something. I'll try Gears 5.

Yeah, Assassins Creed Odyssey looks really bad and weird with HDR. Not every game looks better with HDR.
 
Automatic static brightness limiter (ASBL) can be pretty annoying when working on the desktop. The way it works is that if it detects that too much of the image is static, it will lower brightness gradually, eventually leading to a too dim image. To disable it you can show something bright on the screen again for example. This can happen just while I am typing for example this message if I stop to think for a bit.

ASBL can only be disabled with the service menu using either the service remote you can get off eBay or by using an Android phone with a IR blaster and a suitable app. There are a few in the Google Play store. I have not yet tried any so I don't know how well they work.

For PC use it might be worth turning off ASBL, even if it means diminishing the lifetime of the display a little. This is not an issue if you are just gaming or watching movies but if you use this display for everything then you might notice it.

Otherwise I have liked working and gaming on it this past week. It is big and for personal stuff I don't often use the full space available because it's not that comfortable to read the top 1/3 of the screen at my viewing distance. For work I put secondary stuff like terminals and whatnot there so I can see them at a glance but don't have to look at them constantly.
 
Please use 4K 60 Hz RGB / YCbCr444 8-bit with dithering for HDR on a PC and dispel the myth that you need 10-bit for HDR. 10-bit is required only for 4:2:2 / 4:2:0 on consoles and Blu-ray players since dithering cannot be applied to a subsampled signal. 8-bit with high quality dithering surpasses native 10-bit in banding on most panels and doesn't suffer from fringing in text and graphics.
Did Gears 5 with this exact setup, it looked amazing. It has a good calibration screen for fiddling with settings in both the game and the TV, and I found I prefer dynamic tone mapping to HGIG. HGIG seems to rely on you putting in an accurate peak brightness. Dynamic tone mapping just works it out for you and you can max out the peak brightness (just like HDR videos do).
 
Automatic static brightness limiter (ASBL) can be pretty annoying when working on the desktop. The way it works is that if it detects that too much of the image is static, it will lower brightness gradually, eventually leading to a too dim image. To disable it you can show something bright on the screen again for example. This can happen just while I am typing for example this message if I stop to think for a bit.

ASBL can only be disabled with the service menu using either the service remote you can get off eBay or by using an Android phone with a IR blaster and a suitable app. There are a few in the Google Play store. I have not yet tried any so I don't know how well they work.

For PC use it might be worth turning off ASBL, even if it means diminishing the lifetime of the display a little. This is not an issue if you are just gaming or watching movies but if you use this display for everything then you might notice it.

Otherwise I have liked working and gaming on it this past week. It is big and for personal stuff I don't often use the full space available because it's not that comfortable to read the top 1/3 of the screen at my viewing distance. For work I put secondary stuff like terminals and whatnot there so I can see them at a glance but don't have to look at them constantly.

I haven't had any ABL issues with the desktop, even with a full white screen...but I'm also running with OLED light at 40 for daily driving SDR use and it's more than bright enough. Turning on Windows HDR (and letting it use OLED light 100) causes white desktop elements to scorch my retinas...
 
Fedex tracking says my 48CX was delivered. Only problem with this is IT WAS NOT DELIVERED.

One phone with Fedex CSRs now and getting the run around....also on eternal hold with Beach Camera to get this sorted.

Got disconnected from Beach Camera....great gonna be one of those days.

Called Fedex back, the CSR insisted that it was delivered per tracking info, after I explained that it was NOT, the csr put me through to a number that just range for five minutes.

Calling Beach Camera back. Beach telling me they are now opening a case with fedex and could take a few days to sort and may require a police report. They old me to call back later to talk to original CSR.

Called fedex back and they say they may have their investigative department call me back by 5pm

Just spoke with original beach camera csr and she says Fedex refuses to send their driver back to where they may have delivered it. Beach Camera CSR says fedex instructed them to file a loss claim.

FUCK YOU FEDEX.
 
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Fedex tracking says my 48CX was delivered. Only problem with this is IT WAS NOT DELIVERED.

One phone with Fedex CSRs now and getting the run around....also on eternal hold with Beach Camera to get this sorted.

Got disconnected from Beach Camera....great gonna be one of those days.

Called Fedex back, the CSR insisted that it was delivered per tracking info, after I explained that it was NOT, the csr put me through to a number that just range for five minutes.

Calling Beach Camera back. Beach telling me they are now opening a case with fedex and could take a few days to sort and may require a police report. They old me to call back later to talk to original CSR.

Called fedex back and they say they may have their investigative department call me back by 5pm

Just spoke with original beach camera csr and she says Fedex refuses to send their driver back to where they may have delivered it. Beach Camera CSR says fedex instructed them to file a loss claim.

FUCK YOU FEDEX.


THAT SUUUUUUUCKS!!!!! Sorry to hear that. SMH Keep us posted.
 
I haven't had any ABL issues with the desktop, even with a full white screen...but I'm also running with OLED light at 40 for daily driving SDR use and it's more than bright enough. Turning on Windows HDR (and letting it use OLED light 100) causes white desktop elements to scorch my retinas...

ABL and ASBL are two different things. I run similar settings and sitting for a while in the same screen for example reading stuff you can see ASBL kicking in and gradually dimming the image. It's pretty subtle.

In other news, tried Doom Eternal (since it's one of the few games I have with both good HDR and runs at 4K 120 fps on a 2080 Ti) with BFI both at 4K 60 Hz + HDR as well as 4K 120 Hz 4:20 SDR. In HDR it muted some of the highlights but was perfectly usable. In SDR you needed to crank OLED light up so it's probably best to set up one of the presets for this so you can toggle it easily. BFI on Medium or Auto gave best results. Auto is different from the other options and maybe dynamically varies the BFI based on something? In any case it worked well for me.

I think BFI could be a potential option for games that are either locked 60 Hz (like Dark Souls 3) or games that run at very high framerates on the regular. Motion clarity was pretty good on Medium or Auto to me. On my old ASUS PG278Q I often used the ULMB mode on games that ran at very high fps as I felt it was a better option than using G-Sync.

I want to order one of those Club3D adapters and see if I can get it working any better. Availability is now listed as Monday so we will see. I also have a C9 that I can test to see if there is any difference, just takes a bit of hauling the computer to the living room.
 
Wow Bestbuy and Buydig/Beach Camera are showing ETA's of 7/31 for delivery. Either supply is super limited or people are gobbling the 48's up like crazy.
 
im thinking about getting one of these sometime later this year. im a little confused about the limited hdmi 2.1 though. will these things actually do 4k/120hz/444 at 10bit or no? or will we not know for sure until hdmi 2.1 cards come out?
 
im thinking about getting one of these sometime later this year. im a little confused about the limited hdmi 2.1 though. will these things actually do 4k/120hz/444 at 10bit or no? or will we not know for sure until hdmi 2.1 cards come out?

The bandwidth is there to support 4k 120hz 4:4:4 10bit, but not 12bit. It's a 10bit panel so that shouldn't matter, but... Right now Nvidia drivers only let you pick 8bit or 12bit for HDMI outputs (but you can pick 10bit on Displayport). The assumption is they'll fix that when they release cards with HDMI 2.1 ports.
 
The bandwidth is there to support 4k 120hz 4:4:4 10bit, but not 12bit. It's a 10bit panel so that shouldn't matter, but... Right now Nvidia drivers only let you pick 8bit or 12bit for HDMI outputs (but you can pick 10bit on Displayport). The assumption is they'll fix that when they release cards with HDMI 2.1 ports.

perfect. now its time to wait for the 3080s to launch.
 
Ok gonna check more settings. But been through them all. Trumotion must be off since it cause heavy flicker
I wonder what is going on with 60hz is it a bug in the lg software? Why does it need to be so much more blurry in movement?

I feel bad for you, either something is wrong with your panel or your PC config is messed up. Either way I would try to factory reset the TV and on PC reinstall drivers with "clean" settings etc., to try and get it working. If all fails, it might be a faulty panel.

Also try a different HDMI cable, maybe that's the issue. The shorter the better (2m-3m), and an expensive 48Gbps cable is worth it.
 
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