LG 48CX

Ok, thanks :) So I'll just have to wait a bit longer for 3000-series.
Just to be sure I just ran DDU and got rid of everything.
Could probably drop it back to 60Hz and enjoy the richer colors.

One more thing popped into mind: If a game exceeds 60Hz, I will probably not get screen tearing until 120+Hz now?
 
MelonSplitter said:
THAT SUUUUUUUCKS!!!!! Sorry to hear that. SMH Keep us posted.
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Tracking says it was delivered at 10:51 and I was home and there was no fedex man!
I live in a condo so either he delivered it to another building or stole it :-(

Fedex was absolutely no help, they said they would have a case manage call me back by 5pm but they never did.
So I called them at 5pm and the CSR kept routing me to a number that just range and range. On the fourth attempt @5:15pm
I told the CSR to stay on the line because the call transfer just rings and rings and the CSR did and when the call just rang
and range the fedex csr said oh your right it sure does then disconnected me.

I went to call beach camera again but they CLOSED at 2pm :-(
I am going to have Beach issue me a refund, I don't have the time or patience for CSR merry go round.

So I said FUCK THIS SHIT and found one locally for sale at Brandsmart USA and went and picked it up!
Here it is next to my AW5520QF running my WAR B.A.L. a sports game I am developing for PC
If anybody wants a free game key for WAR B.A.L. please let me know as it will go beta soonish!
aw10.jpg
 
Glad you were able to find one. Sucks about the Beach order.

My BB order keeps getting pushed further back. Wishing now I didn't scrap the B&H order I had in. Be lucky to secure one of these by August at this point.
 
Enhanced Interrogator said:
kiario I'm betting the reason you thing 60hz in standard mode is "smooth" is because it has motion interpolation enabled.
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Yeah, in game mode the tru motion settings presets are not available.
Turning off tru motion in standard mode results in same motion blur as in game mode.
So why cant tru motion be used in game mode? Because it increases response time?
 
kasakka said:
That's promising. I think I will order one and see how it fares as I own both a CX 48" and a C9 65".

What does reducing back porch do? Any effect on image quality? Is this only required on the 1080 Ti because it does not support DSC like the 20xx series does?
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There are invisible lines needed for synchronization between frames. These lines also account for the bandwidth needed. Lowering the amount of lines leaves more bandwidth for the visible image.
But going too low will result in occasional flickering of parts of the screen (some parts of the image are temporarily in the wrong place). Going even lower will cause a no signal message.
Anyway, with the right values there will be no effect on image quality. With DSC it should be possible to use the default resolutions, although I have heard reports that DSC is not yet working with the adapter.
 
kiario said:
.
So why cant tru motion be used in game mode? Because it increases response time?
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the smoothness you're seeing isn't real. Or at least it's not from frames rendered by your console or PC. You know what motion interpolation is? They're fake frames made up by the processor on your TV.
 
tacos4me said:
Glad you were able to find one. Sucks about the Beach order.

My BB order keeps getting pushed further back. Wishing now I didn't scrap the B&H order I had in. Be lucky to secure one of these by August at this point.
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Weird my order from BB was not suppose to come any earlier than Jul 14th and yet I got it on Jul 1st.
 
Hey all, apologies if this has already been discussed in the thread, but can anyone who has successfully used LG OLEDs as PC displays post the settings / best practices they put to use? (ie, contrast, brightness, OLED light, etc.). Also, is it best practice to use the "PC Input" for the HDMI port being used? I've seen mixed opinions on this.

I have a 48CX arriving either tomorrow or Monday from B&H and am preparing my desktop to use it as a primary display with flanking 27" 4K LG IPS displays in portrait. I am using buttery taskbar, PowerToys (for FancyZones and PowerToys Run), black desktop, hidden desktop icons, and a blank screensaver on 1 minute timer. This will be running off a 2080Ti (3xxx when they are released).

One last thing: is it best practice to turn off "put display to sleep after XX minutes" for the OLED and just turn it off at the end of the day? From what I've read this can be good because because you're more likely to use the display for 4+ hours at a time, which then forces a compensation cycle when powered off... Is this true/effective?

Thanks for the advice!
 
lunchtime said:
Hey all, apologies if this has already been discussed in the thread, but can anyone who has successfully used LG OLEDs as PC displays post the settings / best practices they put to use? (ie, contrast, brightness, OLED light, etc.). Also, is it best practice to use the "PC Input" for the HDMI port being used? I've seen mixed opinions on this.

I have a 48CX arriving either tomorrow or Monday from B&H and am preparing my desktop to use it as a primary display with flanking 27" 4K LG IPS displays in portrait. I am using buttery taskbar, PowerToys (for FancyZones and PowerToys Run), black desktop, hidden desktop icons, and a blank screensaver on 1 minute timer. This will be running off a 2080Ti (3xxx when they are released).

One last thing: is it best practice to turn off "put display to sleep after XX minutes" for the OLED and just turn it off at the end of the day? From what I've read this can be good because because you're more likely to use the display for 4+ hours at a time, which then forces a compensation cycle when powered off... Is this true/effective?

Thanks for the advice!
Click to expand...

I'm using the rtings recommended SDR settings with OLED light at 40 and it's a good brightness for me. I honestly haven't been able to discern a difference between setting the input mode to PC or not. I've been turning the TV off when I get up from the computer, it turns on extremely quickly so it isn't a hassle.
 
l88bastard said:
Tracking says it was delivered at 10:51 and I was home and there was no fedex man!
I live in a condo so either he delivered it to another building or stole it :-(

Fedex was absolutely no help, they said they would have a case manage call me back by 5pm but they never did.
So I called them at 5pm and the CSR kept routing me to a number that just range and range. On the fourth attempt @5:15pm
I told the CSR to stay on the line because the call transfer just rings and rings and the CSR did and when the call just rang
and range the fedex csr said oh your right it sure does then disconnected me.

I went to call beach camera again but they CLOSED at 2pm :-(
I am going to have Beach issue me a refund, I don't have the time or patience for CSR merry go round.

So I said FUCK THIS SHIT and found one locally for sale at Brandsmart USA and went and picked it up!
Here it is next to my AW5520QF running my WAR B.A.L. a sports game I am developing for PC
If anybody wants a free game key for WAR B.A.L. please let me know as it will go beta soonish!
View attachment 258793
Click to expand...
Good to see you got one. Please PM me a key. Is that a bottle of antacids or Tylenol LOL?
 
Was hoping there was more mark up in these lol Still going to cost me 1200 bucks after taxes for one of these. Don’t plan on these getting to much cheaper, cost is around 1k on these depending on bulk order. Plan on ordering one of these next week. Any one tested one of these with a 5700 XT? Seams every one is running an Nvidia card. I’ll be running the 5700 xt till the 3080 ti comes out.
 
Anyone else get weird artifacts like the screen "jerks" for 1 frame when doing 4k 120hz 4:2:0? At first I thought it was my HDMI cable not being the greatest and being at the edge of it's bandwidth. I swapped it for a good one and it's happening less...but still occasionally.
 
mirkendargen said:
Anyone else get weird artifacts like the screen "jerks" for 1 frame when doing 4k 120hz 4:2:0? At first I thought it was my HDMI cable not being the greatest and being at the edge of it's bandwidth. I swapped it for a good one and it's happening less...but still occasionally.
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HDTVTest mentioned that motion interpolation could cause stutter. So "Tru Motion" has to be off, unless you're in game mode, in which case you can go into the User mode and turn on "Motion Pro" to get BFI without the interpolation.

Don't know if that will solve your issue or not.
 
Enhanced Interrogator said:
HDTVTest mentioned that motion interpolation could cause stutter. So "Tru Motion" has to be off, unless you're in game mode, in which case you can go into the User mode and turn on "Motion Pro" to get BFI without the interpolation.

Don't know if that will solve your issue or not.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's off, the option (along with others) is greyed out when you have instant game response on. And I'm in game mode as well.
 
I think I will try disabling ASBL soon. It does get a bit annoying as just reading stuff and writing stuff it tends to slowly dim the screen a lot and I am only running at OLED light 40 as it is. To get rid of it you can either bring up the home view or switch to say a bright website. Then your brightness is right back. If you have say a YouTube video running all the time in another window then you will most likely not see this but just pausing a video to read stuff caused ASBL to slowly kick in.

lunchtime said:
One last thing: is it best practice to turn off "put display to sleep after XX minutes" for the OLED and just turn it off at the end of the day? From what I've read this can be good because because you're more likely to use the display for 4+ hours at a time, which then forces a compensation cycle when powered off... Is this true/effective?
Click to expand...

I would recommend just hitting the power button on the remote if you take a longer break like go to the store etc. The display will not disconnect from your computer like DP does so it won't mess your window placement etc.

The automatic pixel refresher works on cumulative usage so when the display is turned off after 4 hours or more of consecutive use, it will run the pixel refresher. It will run a longer one after I think 2000 hours. So just keep it always connected to power even when it is off so the refresher can run. It is not visible on screen in any way.
 
kasakka said:
uld recommend just hitting the power button on the remote if you take a longer break like go to the store etc. The display will not disconnect from your computer like DP does so it won't mess your window placement etc.

The automatic pixel refresher works on cumulative usage so when the display is turned off after 4 hours or more of consecutive use, it will run the pixel refresher. It will run a longer one after I think 2000 hours. So just keep it always connected to power even when it is off so the refresher can run. It is not visible on screen in any way.
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Perfect, thank you!!
 
Spent all day yesterday just replaying Metro 2033 Redux now I've started Metro Last Light Redux today. OLED's per pixel true blacks just delivers something that not even the best FALD LCDs can do for these kind of games.
 

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l88bastard said:
Tracking says it was delivered at 10:51 and I was home and there was no fedex man!
I live in a condo so either he delivered it to another building or stole it :-(

Fedex was absolutely no help, they said they would have a case manage call me back by 5pm but they never did.
So I called them at 5pm and the CSR kept routing me to a number that just range and range. On the fourth attempt @5:15pm
I told the CSR to stay on the line because the call transfer just rings and rings and the CSR did and when the call just rang
and range the fedex csr said oh your right it sure does then disconnected me.

I went to call beach camera again but they CLOSED at 2pm :-(
I am going to have Beach issue me a refund, I don't have the time or patience for CSR merry go round.

So I said FUCK THIS SHIT and found one locally for sale at Brandsmart USA and went and picked it up!
Here it is next to my AW5520QF running my WAR B.A.L. a sports game I am developing for PC
If anybody wants a free game key for WAR B.A.L. please let me know as it will go beta soonish!
View attachment 258793
Click to expand...
That sucks man, shouldn't they require a signature for such an expensive delivery?
 
I think many people are going the route of accommodating the display via changing their desk/room setup instead of letting the current desk dictate what display you can use.

I raised my desk slightly and added a slide out tray for the keyboard so I'm an extra foot away.
 
SoCali said:
I think many people are going the route of accommodating the display via changing their desk/room setup instead of letting the current desk dictate what display you can use.

I raised my desk slightly and added a slide out tray for the keyboard so I'm an extra foot away.
Click to expand...

Yes, I will never understand people that restrict their display by what their desk setup is.
 
PittyH said:
You desk is stopping you from glory? get a bigger desk, or put a larger flat board down on the desk.
Click to expand...
I am not in a huge rush. Just hope in the next 3-5 years we see this tech trickle down to smaller monitors. Plus I like my desk/office config.
 
So I been using the TV for most of the day, turned it off to go eat some BBQ, come back and now I've also been notified of firmware 03.00.60 lol aren't we on 03.00.70? Anything worth manually updating to in that firmware or should I not bother?
 
MistaSparkul said:
So I been using the TV for most of the day, turned it off to go eat some BBQ, come back and now I've also been notified of firmware 03.00.60 lol aren't we on 03.00.70? Anything worth manually updating to in that firmware or should I not bother?
Click to expand...

I'm on 03.10.20, heh.
 
VinnieM said:
I have a C9 and a 1080ti and also received this adapter. I don't have most of these problems. Switching resolution or between HDR/SDR takes a bit longer than usual (couple of seconds), but I don't have to pull the USB cable. What HDMI cable are you using?
It is possible to run at 3840x2160 8-bit and Full RGB (4:4:4) if you create a custom resolution with Custom Resolution Utility. You need to add the extension block DisplayID, use LCD standard timings and reduce the back porch from 119 to about 50 lines.
This is necessary because you need to stay below the pixel clock of around 1080MHz due to the 32.4Gbps DP 1.4 limit (without DSC).

GSync is indeed not supported, but my 1080ti didn't support it over HDMI anyway.

One other thing I noticed is that in PC mode and HDR, the color banding is much better at 120Hz/100Hz vs. 60Hz. Maybe it's because of the separate HDMI 2.1 chipset of the C9.
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Could you test if 1080p 120hz 1:1 scaling (no scaling) works now? So you have something like a 25inch window in the middle. You have to check in windows display settings under advanced that the active displaysignal is 4K 120Hz. Currently the active display signal is limited to 1440p when using 1080p120hz with no scaling. Thank you :)
 
Hi,

Does anyone have this problem in games? Video taken with phone shows the auto brightness feature which is extremely bothering in my opinion.
IT looks exactly as seen in the clip even if phone compensates the overall light in the room.
Maybe its game related but its quite evident in google page as it dims the overall screen quite a bit

Another clip in windows



 

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