LG 48CX

kasakka

[H]ard|Gawd
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Ok - just received and tested stuff for an hour with the CAC-1085 DP1.4 to HDMI2.1 adapter. At this point I CANNOT recommend this product. It's flawed running on my 2080TI and CX48. This is what i send to Club3d Support:
  • Everytime I change resolution or HDR on/off or change the color profile (bits, chroma or RGC) – the adapter looses signal. Only way to recover is pull the USB Power and put it back in;
  • Even when moving from in game back to windows (disabling HDR) e.g. in RDR2 – it looses signal;
  • When login into windows (switching from lock screen to desktop) it looses signal;
  • HDR increases the brightness of the entire panel;
  • I’m not able to run 4:4:4. Only 4:2:2 or RGB;
  • GSync is NOT supported;
  • Custom Resolution (36840x1600) is NOT supported. Black screen like before;
  • Custom Resolution (3440x1440) at 120 hz 1:1 is supported but only at 8-bit - and NO G-Sync.
Just switched back to HDMI - Text is better readable... there is something wrong with the full RGB / HDR that causes text to be fuzzy.
That's unfortunate. For the custom resolution thing, does using GPU vs Display scaling in NVCP change anything?

The no G-Sync was a known issue so I don't hold that against them at this point.

But the rest is just not right. Are you also using a "HDMI 2.1" cable aka HDMI cable supposed to work with up to 8K 60 Hz or 4K 120 Hz? Does turning on or off the HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color make any difference in stability?

What do you mean by HDR increases the brightness of the entire panel? Does it cause black levels to shift as well? Maybe it drops to "limited" rather than full color?

EDIT: How are you connecting power? USB directly to computer or USB to something like a phone charger if it doesn't come with a power adapter?

I've got plenty of experience losing picture and other anomalies on a long HDMI cable and I think something similar might be occurring here (or otherwise the adapter is just crap). The things I have seen just from having a crap HDMI cable (where quality matters at 8+ meters) have been things like randomly missing resolutions, refresh rates, color space settings, flickering, blank screen etc.
 
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I’m using the right cable. Specifically bought for 2.1 full bandwith. I’ve tested with mobo usb power and external adapter. Scaling makes no difference. Brightness is higher overall. White with text looks oversaturated and event text overflows making it less crisp.

The HDMI is only 2 meters.
 

kasakka

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
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Messages
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I’m using the right cable. Specifically bought for 2.1 full bandwith. I’ve tested with mobo usb power and external adapter. Scaling makes no difference. Brightness is higher overall. White with text looks oversaturated and event text overflows making it less crisp.

The HDMI is only 2 meters.
Sounds like you are doing all the right things. Does using it only at 60 Hz or 100 Hz work any better?

EDIT: What specific cable model are you using? When I was looking for a long cable a lot of them claimed to support all the good stuff but there were huge differences in if they worked or not.
 
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Armenius

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I know. But... gamma seemed to be off. Especially in the start of the game with the snow storms... you would barely get contrast..
HDR implementation in RDR2 was done incorrectly. They said they "fixed" it, but all they really did was decouple peak brightness from the black level.
I don't understand your question. I've switched my CX48 on 2080TI with HDMI2 to the CAC-1085 DP1.4 to HDMI2.1 adapter. Still connected to the CX48.
How long is the HDMI cable you're using?

Is the HDMI cable you're connecting from the adapter to the TV an Ultra High Speed Cable like this? You can't use an old HDMI cable and get above 18 Gbps bandwidth.
 

pandora's box

Supreme [H]ardness
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I believe gears of war 5 is the best game to test out the HDR on this tv. It's part of Xbox game pass too
 
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HDR implementation in RDR2 was done incorrectly. They said they "fixed" it, but all they really did was decouple peak brightness from the black level.

How long is the HDMI cable you're using?

Is the HDMI cable you're connecting from the adapter to the TV an Ultra High Speed Cable like this? You can't use an old HDMI cable and get above 18 Gbps bandwidth.
2 meters. Got a response from club3d. They’re stating 4:4:4 hdr 4k is not possible since the 40gbps limitation of the cx48 and it would require 40.1gbps.

They didn’t respond to the signal problems...
 

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Armenius

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2 meters. Got a response from club3d. They’re stating 4:4:4 hdr 4k is not possible since the 40gbps limitation of the cx48 and it would require 40.1gbps.

They didn’t respond to the signal problems...
So Club3D are saying that the adapter, in fact, does not support DSC even though they have advertised otherwise up to this point? Because 40.1 Gbps is the uncompressed bandwidth.
 

frisbfreek

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Joined
Jul 13, 2004
Messages
55
So Club3D are saying that the adapter, in fact, does not support DSC even though they have advertised otherwise up to this point? Because 40.1 Gbps is the uncompressed bandwidth.
I don't think the LGCX supports DSC (it *is* supported on the latest Samsung TVs though). I had thought that this adapter is to evaluate 4k @ 120Hz on the CX.
 

Armenius

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I don't think the LGCX supports DSC (it *is* supported on the latest Samsung TVs though). I had thought that this adapter is to evaluate 4k @ 120Hz on the CX.
As far as the adapter is concerned I don't think it would matter much anyway since you're limited to DP 1.4's 32.4 Gbps bandwidth with the adapter, anyway.
 

mirkendargen

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Messages
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I got word yesterday that Video Only locally has 10 in stock...now to decide whether I want to just get it from there for $1500 or hold out hoping it shows up on the LG corporate discount site soon...
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
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Messages
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OK, got mine set up and I definitely need to do some optimization. I went through the initial setup and after getting to the Windows desktop, it's definitely not running at 4:4:4.

Can one of you guys post a quick guide of which settings we need to change?

After the initial setup, the TV told me that it was going to enable HDMI HD Ultra Deep Color. When it did that, the entire screen turned green and I had a large, weird looking cursor. I turned HDMI HD Ultra Deep Color back off, and was able to see things normally (but at 4:2:0). edit: fixed, thank you!

Windows enabled 300% scaling by default. I quickly set that back to 100%.

I'm feeling significant cursor lag (with Instant Game Response turned on and off) compared to my B7, and that shouldn't be the case at all. edit: fixed, thank you!

If I launch NVCP, 60Hz is the highest available refresh rate, and I only have the choice of 32-bit color, YCbCr420 output color format, and 8 bpc. edit: fixed, thank you!

I am using HDMI 4, since that's the only input that my cable could reach without relocating my PC. Are all of the inputs the same? They are all labeled 4K @ 120 on the TV.
 
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Joined
May 15, 2020
Messages
51
OK, got mine set up and I definitely need to do some optimization. I went through the initial setup and after getting to the Windows desktop, it's definitely not running at 4:4:4.

Can one of you guys post a quick guide of which settings we need to change?

After the initial setup, the TV told me that it was going to enable HDMI HD Ultra Deep Color. When it did that, the entire screen turned green and I had a large, weird looking cursor. I turned HDMI HD Ultra Deep Color back off, and was able to see things normally (but at 4:2:0).

Windows enabled 300% scaling by default. I quickly set that back to 100%.

I'm feeling significant cursor lag (with Instant Game Response turned on and off) compared to my B7, and that shouldn't be the case at all.

If I launch NVCP, 60Hz is the highest available refresh rate, and I only have the choice of 32-bit color, YCbCr420 output color format, and 8 bpc.

I am using HDMI 4, since that's the only input that my cable could reach without relocating my PC. Are all of the inputs the same? They are all labeled 4K @ 120 on the TV.
Make sure to out the icon to PC on the LG. And on the PC NVCP, scroll down on reso’s and choose 4k PC resolution. That will allow 100/120hz.
 

HellfireX

n00b
Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
38
I got word yesterday that Video Only locally has 10 in stock...now to decide whether I want to just get it from there for $1500 or hold out hoping it shows up on the LG corporate discount site soon...
This morning I pinged customer service that covers the LG corporate discounts to see if they are going to get any stock. Ill update this if I get a reply. The discounts are pretty decent for their stuff they stock.
And response :(
"We are not aware of models that will eventually be on the website. Our website is managed by several departments and in this case, the TV department updates the site periodically.
Unfortunately, the only way to see if new models are available is to check the website periodically. We apologize for the inconvenience.
Thank You,
LG Partners Mall Support"
 
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frisbfreek

n00b
Joined
Jul 13, 2004
Messages
55
The cx can already do 4k@120hz without the adapter...
I should have specified 4k @ 120hz 4:4:4, as you can do 4k @ 120hz 4:2:0 without the adapter.

As far as the adapter is concerned I don't think it would matter much anyway since you're limited to DP 1.4's 32.4 Gbps bandwidth with the adapter, anyway.
Yes, and DP 1.4's 32.4 Gbps total bandwidth is actually a data rate of 25.9 Gbps under 8b/10b encoding. However, 4k @ 120hz 4:4:4 with CVT-RBv2 timings requires 25.8 Gbps, which should be just under the limit. I should note that using CVT-RB timings would need 26.3 Gbps and thus would be over the limit. One might need to specify a custom resolution to use CVT-RBv2, but it should be doable.
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
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Messages
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Make sure to out the icon to PC on the LG. And on the PC NVCP, scroll down on reso’s and choose 4k PC resolution. That will allow 100/120hz.
Thank you! Totally forgot about renaming the input.

OK, did that. And I missed that "PC" section of resolutions in the NVCP.

So, with HDMI HD Ultra Deep Color disabled, it only goes up to 1360x768:

1593625263006.png


I tried re-enabling HDMI HD UDC and - no green screen this time - and I was able to select higher resolutions and refresh rates, like you said.

1593625160540.png


I still seem to be unable to select 4:4:4 under 60Hz, though. Going to reboot and continue playing with it. 4:2:0 is definitely not as nice on the desktop as 4:4:4 was on my B7, but I can live with that until the 3080 Ti. Would be nice to be able to revert to 4:4:4 @ 60Hz in the meantime as an option. edit: fixed, thank you!
 
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Armenius

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I should have specified 4k @ 120hz 4:4:4, as you can do 4k @ 120hz 4:2:0 without the adapter.


Yes, and DP 1.4's 32.4 Gbps total bandwidth is actually a data rate of 25.9 Gbps under 8b/10b encoding. However, 4k @ 120hz 4:4:4 with CVT-RBv2 timings requires 25.8 Gbps, which should be just under the limit. I should note that using CVT-RB timings would need 26.3 Gbps and thus would be over the limit. One might need to specify a custom resolution to use CVT-RBv2, but it should be doable.
Without HDR. HDR adds additional overhead.
Thank you! Totally forgot about renaming the input.

OK, did that. And I missed that "PC" section of resolutions in the NVCP.

So, with HDMI HD Ultra Deep Color disabled, it only goes up to 1360x768:

View attachment 257995

I tried re-enabling HDMI HD UDC and - no green screen this time - and I was able to select higher resolutions and refresh rates, like you said.

View attachment 257994

I still seem to be unable to select 4:4:4 under 60Hz, though. Going to reboot and continue playing with it. 4:2:0 is definitely not as nice on the desktop as 4:4:4 was on my B7, but I can live with that until the 3080 Ti. Would be nice to be able to revert to 4:4:4 @ 60Hz in the meantime as an option.
Is it just the screenshot, or have you not changed the #3 radio button to "Use NVIDIA color settings" to try change the color format yet?
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
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Oh...just switched from the default picture mode to Game Mode. That brought the input lag WAY down. Cursor response is crisp, smooth and responsive. It wasn't bad before, but this is NICE.

Is it just the screenshot, or have you not changed the #3 radio button to "Use NVIDIA color settings" to try change the color format yet?
I did, but the drop-down boxes only contained a single item (what you see there). But after playing with some more settings, I now have the additional options (only after going back up and selecting the other, native 3840x2160 resolution near the top <the one that only supports 60Hz>). Typical setup issues...it's been over 2.5 years since I've done this, so I'm a little rusty. :)

Should Output Dynamic Range be set to Full or Limited? And when running at 60Hz, should I be selecting RGB or YCbCr444? Guessing the latter, but RGB seems to look about as good(?). I haven't done any direct comparisons with different colored fine text yet, though.

And I've not even dug into many of the advanced picture options in the TV menu yet. So much to play with and fine tune.

I lowered the OLED light level to 12, which is where I had my B7, and this display seems to be dimmer at that setting. Maybe just because I had been viewing it for an hour or so at the default level. So for now I've re-enabled Energy Saving Mode, which looks pretty good. When manually setting the OLED light level, it looks like I could settle on a value somewhere between 30-50 and be happy. Will keep playing around with that.
 

frisbfreek

n00b
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Jul 13, 2004
Messages
55
Without HDR. HDR adds additional overhead.
Haha yes... so with the adapter, you can do 4k @ 120hz 4:4:4 8-bit, or 4k @ 120hz 4:2:2 10-bit, or 4k @ <=97hz 4:4:4 10-bit (or worse if you use older timings), or a smaller resolution, or wait for a proper HDMI 2.1 output. But something's gotta give! ;)
 

vorpel

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jan 7, 2006
Messages
372
Thank you! Totally forgot about renaming the input.

OK, did that. And I missed that "PC" section of resolutions in the NVCP.

So, with HDMI HD Ultra Deep Color disabled, it only goes up to 1360x768:

View attachment 257995

I tried re-enabling HDMI HD UDC and - no green screen this time - and I was able to select higher resolutions and refresh rates, like you said.

View attachment 257994

I still seem to be unable to select 4:4:4 under 60Hz, though. Going to reboot and continue playing with it. 4:2:0 is definitely not as nice on the desktop as 4:4:4 was on my B7, but I can live with that until the 3080 Ti. Would be nice to be able to revert to 4:4:4 @ 60Hz in the meantime as an option.
You need to go into the Home screen on the LG, select the setup icon (top right) and then on the HDMI port that you are connected to your PC, select it and you should get a drop down list of input types - scroll down until you see "PC". Select that. Then make sure in your Nvidia control panel that you have 3840-2160 selected, 60hz in the box to the right. Pull up this page and see if the bottom 2 lines of text are clear (this will tell you if you are indeed at 4:4:4 color space): https://www.rtings.com/images/test-materials/2017/chroma-444.png

Good luck!
 

kasakka

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
1,752
OK, got mine set up and I definitely need to do some optimization. I went through the initial setup and after getting to the Windows desktop, it's definitely not running at 4:4:4.

Can one of you guys post a quick guide of which settings we need to change?

After the initial setup, the TV told me that it was going to enable HDMI HD Ultra Deep Color. When it did that, the entire screen turned green and I had a large, weird looking cursor. I turned HDMI HD Ultra Deep Color back off, and was able to see things normally (but at 4:2:0).

Windows enabled 300% scaling by default. I quickly set that back to 100%.

I'm feeling significant cursor lag (with Instant Game Response turned on and off) compared to my B7, and that shouldn't be the case at all.

If I launch NVCP, 60Hz is the highest available refresh rate, and I only have the choice of 32-bit color, YCbCr420 output color format, and 8 bpc.

I am using HDMI 4, since that's the only input that my cable could reach without relocating my PC. Are all of the inputs the same? They are all labeled 4K @ 120 on the TV.
Seems you figured most of it out but here's for reference to others.
  1. Press the Home button, select the Home dashboard, click the gear icon, choose Edit, select PC icon for your chosen input. All the inputs are the same except HDMI 2 has eARC support so if you plan to use that, use the other inputs. HDMI 4 is poking out the back just so you will have a hard time using all the inputs when wall mounting. Thanks LG!
  2. Make sure Instant Game Response is enabled in the settings for your chosen HDMI input. If it is not enabled, G-Sync option goes missing at least for me.
  3. Select picture preset Game mode.
  4. Configure Game mode according to Rtings recommended settings.
  5. Open Windows display settings and make sure scaling is desired level (probably 100% or 125%) and HDR is off. Turn HDR on only when needed if a game cannot enable it on its own. Doom Eternal and Hitman 2 manage fine by themselves, others tend to need enabling HDR first in Display settings.
  6. Open NVCP and select either 3840x2160 (native) 60 Hz or in the PC resolutions section 3840x2160 120 Hz 4:2:0.
  7. Make sure you are using RGB and full dynamic range if you use the 60 Hz option.
 

Lateralus

More [H]uman than Human
Joined
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Messages
15,791
You need to go into the Home screen on the LG, select the setup icon (top right) and then on the HDMI port that you are connected to your PC, select it and you should get a drop down list of input types - scroll down until you see "PC". Select that. Then make sure in your Nvidia control panel that you have 3840-2160 selected, 60hz in the box to the right. Pull up this page and see if the bottom 2 lines of text are clear (this will tell you if you are indeed at 4:4:4 color space): https://www.rtings.com/images/test-materials/2017/chroma-444.png

Good luck!
Got it! Yes, I've used that image in the past to confirm 4:4:4 on my old JS9000. Text in that image looks perfectly crisp/clear on both the RGB and YCrCb444 settings.

I also fired up Doom Eternal a few minutes ago and yeah, this is going to be one amazing gaming display. Wow. I'm pretty blown away.
 

Lateralus

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Aug 7, 2004
Messages
15,791
Seems you figured most of it out but here's for reference to others.
  1. Press the Home button, select the Home dashboard, click the gear icon, choose Edit, select PC icon for your chosen input. All the inputs are the same except HDMI 2 has eARC support so if you plan to use that, use the other inputs. HDMI 4 is poking out the back just so you will have a hard time using all the inputs when wall mounting. Thanks LG!
  2. Make sure Instant Game Response is enabled in the settings for your chosen HDMI input. If it is not enabled, G-Sync option goes missing at least for me.
  3. Select picture preset Game mode.
  4. Configure Game mode according to Rtings recommended settings.
  5. Open Windows display settings and make sure scaling is desired level (probably 100% or 125%) and HDR is off. Turn HDR on only when needed if a game cannot enable it on its own. Doom Eternal and Hitman 2 manage fine by themselves, others tend to need enabling HDR first in Display settings.
  6. Open NVCP and select either 3840x2160 (native) 60 Hz or in the PC resolutions section 3840x2160 120 Hz 4:2:0.
  7. Make sure you are using RGB and full dynamic range if you use the 60 Hz option.
Awesome. Very helpful for all. It took me a bit to figure out where to go to edit the input...and the first time around, I simply renamed it from "HDMI 4" to "PC". I didn't realize that you could actually change the input type until vorpel's post (it may have been mentioned earlier in the thread, but there's too much to look back through now, lol).

Good to know about Instant Game Reponse and G-Sync!

A little over 2 hours of work left. Absolutely cannot wait to do some gaming on this baby this evening!
 

Armenius

Fully [H]
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Jan 28, 2014
Messages
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Oh...just switched from the default picture mode to Game Mode. That brought the input lag WAY down. Cursor response is crisp, smooth and responsive. It wasn't bad before, but this is NICE.



I did, but the drop-down boxes only contained a single item (what you see there). But after playing with some more settings, I now have the additional options (only after going back up and selecting the other, native 3840x2160 resolution near the top <the one that only supports 60Hz>). Typical setup issues...it's been over 2.5 years since I've done this, so I'm a little rusty. :)

Should Output Dynamic Range be set to Full or Limited? And when running at 60Hz, should I be selecting RGB or YCbCr444? Guessing the latter, but RGB seems to look about as good(?). I haven't done any direct comparisons with different colored fine text yet, though.

And I've not even dug into many of the advanced picture options in the TV menu yet. So much to play with and fine tune.

I lowered the OLED light level to 12, which is where I had my B7, and this display seems to be dimmer at that setting. Maybe just because I had been viewing it for an hour or so at the default level. So for now I've re-enabled Energy Saving Mode, which looks pretty good. When manually setting the OLED light level, it looks like I could settle on a value somewhere between 30-50 and be happy. Will keep playing around with that.
In the end the TV converts the YCbCr to an RGB format, so YCbCr444 is effectively RGB. The only difference is that YCbCr is always limited range, so you need to make sure the black level is set correctly on the TV. Everything else is covered above. Black Level is in Picture Mode Settings and should be set to Low for limited/YCbCr and high for full range RGB. Note that outside of PC you may encounter a setting called "Super White" or something similar, like on the PS4. This increases the top of the RGB range from 235 to 240. In this case leaving Black Level on Auto is recommended.
 

Krotos

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Ok - just received and tested stuff for an hour with the CAC-1085 DP1.4 to HDMI2.1 adapter. At this point I CANNOT recommend this product. It's flawed running on my 2080TI and CX48. This is what i send to Club3d Support:
  • Everytime I change resolution or HDR on/off or change the color profile (bits, chroma or RGC) – the adapter looses signal. Only way to recover is pull the USB Power and put it back in;
  • Even when moving from in game back to windows (disabling HDR) e.g. in RDR2 – it looses signal;
  • When login into windows (switching from lock screen to desktop) it looses signal;
  • HDR increases the brightness of the entire panel;
  • I’m not able to run 4:4:4. Only 4:2:2 or RGB;
  • GSync is NOT supported;
  • Custom Resolution (36840x1600) is NOT supported. Black screen like before;
  • Custom Resolution (3440x1440) at 120 hz 1:1 is supported but only at 8-bit - and NO G-Sync.
Just switched back to HDMI - Text is better readable... there is something wrong with the full RGB / HDR that causes text to be fuzzy.
Where did you buy the adapter from ?
 

Lateralus

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In the end the TV converts the YCbCr to an RGB format, so YCbCr444 is effectively RGB. The only difference is that YCbCr is always limited range, so you need to make sure the black level is set correctly on the TV. Everything else is covered above. Black Level is in Picture Mode Settings and should be set to Low for limited/YCbCr and high for full range RGB. Note that outside of PC you may encounter a setting called "Super White" or something similar, like on the PS4. This increases the top of the RGB range from 235 to 240. In this case leaving Black Level on Auto is recommended.
Thank you for the additional info, brother.

One odd thing that this TV does is it seems to want to switch the picture mode when you change settings in the NVCP. I was trying out various settings earlier and it seemed to want to come out of Game Mode. One time it went to the APS (Auto Power Save) mode and another time it went to Standard Mode, and I had to adjust the OLED light level setting back down each time. It would be nice if it would just stay in Game Mode when switching between 120Hz/4:2:0 and 60Hz/4:4:4, but this is just a minor quirk. I probably won't be switching too often. I'm in 4:2:0 @ 120Hz right now and when reading/typing posts on [H] and browsing around in other tabs, it's perfectly serviceable for my needs.
 

mirkendargen

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Dec 29, 2006
Messages
142
First post - Hi - mirkendargen- I picked up mine Monday from Video Only... and they will negotiate on the price... ask for $100 off.
Yeah I played the two Video Only's near me against each other and told them both that I was thinking about going to the other because it was "closer to my house" and one of them was the manager and said that if I went to his store he had two ways to "sweeten the pot". I was gonna go for 10% off, and if they throw in a warranty I won't complain, heh. The corporate discount site is 20% off 55" CX's, but like was posted earlier who knows if/when it would show up there.
 

improwise

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Apr 8, 2020
Messages
104
Also turn off the pixel shift feature. It will shift the screen a bit at times and will cut off the image. Not an issue really in anything but PC use. It's supposed to be a wear leveling feature but I don't know how effective it is as some burn-in images just show it mostly just spreads the burn-in around a bit. Up to you if you want to disable it or not.
I doubt few people would evennotice that. In most cases it seems its rather people having the wrong picture size, overscan etc. and believe it to be pixel shift. At least I can't see it on my 55" GX on my desk (or rather behind it) unless I really look for it.
 

improwise

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Awesome. Very helpful for all. It took me a bit to figure out where to go to edit the input...and the first time around, I simply renamed it from "HDMI 4" to "PC". I didn't realize that you could actually change the input type until vorpel's post (it may have been mentioned earlier in the thread, but there's too much to look back through now, lol).

Good to know about Instant Game Reponse and G-Sync!

A little over 2 hours of work left. Absolutely cannot wait to do some gaming on this baby this evening!
Yes, LG really messed up the input renaming this year, I could not find it and had to ask for it, and that's coming from someone that has owned 4 LG OLEDs before used in PC mode :)
 

tybert7

2[H]4U
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Aug 23, 2007
Messages
2,716
I cancelled my order. It was still in pending limbo no doubt waiting for more displays, but with the vizio drop yesterday for a 55" for 200 less than the lg 48, I'll just wait until September. By that time, who knows, maybe the 48 will be on bigger discounts.

I got slapped across the face with the fear of missing out, I'm intrigued by the marketing speak of "pro gaming engine" and curious if vizios new IQ ultra chip will provide even better visual touches than other brands. Is it closer to sony? Same as lg? Below? We don't know, but I'm curious!

The last thing that put me over the edge, that shot of pandoras setup looked so good, it gave me a pathway to using a 55 inch, I'll probably just have my desk a bit further away than his. But I also have to move and might be in a new place in a few months, so I'm just going to wait.
 

improwise

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I wasn’t sure about how the size difference would factor in. I have compared the Samsung 40”JU6700, last years 43” Samsung 4K and my 48”JU6700 and JS9000. While there is a difference regarding text between the 40 and 48, the 55” CX seems to be different. This is my first OLED, so maybe I’m just used to the LCD look.

I’ll keep evaluating it, and maybe the Samsung Q90T...

Thanks for taking the time to respond!
I compared my 55" GX to the 55" Q95T and although the former is of course better for movies and TV I kind of expected the later to be better for general PC stuff. I was wrong. It went back the day after I compared them side by side. It takes a bit of tinkering to get text right for the OLED, first you need to switch from ClearType to Greyscale, then you need to change the system font as well to someone that isn't made for ClearType (like the default Tahoma UI is). Finally, remember that some programs like web browsers etc have their own text rendering and does not give a rats ass about what Windows settings you might have.
 

kasakka

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
1,752
I doubt few people would evennotice that. In most cases it seems its rather people having the wrong picture size, overscan etc. and believe it to be pixel shift. At least I can't see it on my 55" GX on my desk (or rather behind it) unless I really look for it.
Depends on which direction it wants to shift the pixels. Cutting off taskbar or maybe a FPS counter in the corner is going to be noticeable whereas otherwise it might go ignored.
 

caffix

n00b
Joined
Nov 13, 2014
Messages
52
Seems you figured most of it out but here's for reference to others.
  1. Press the Home button, select the Home dashboard, click the gear icon, choose Edit, select PC icon for your chosen input. All the inputs are the same except HDMI 2 has eARC support so if you plan to use that, use the other inputs. HDMI 4 is poking out the back just so you will have a hard time using all the inputs when wall mounting. Thanks LG!
  2. Make sure Instant Game Response is enabled in the settings for your chosen HDMI input. If it is not enabled, G-Sync option goes missing at least for me.
  3. Select picture preset Game mode.
  4. Configure Game mode according to Rtings recommended settings.
  5. Open Windows display settings and make sure scaling is desired level (probably 100% or 125%) and HDR is off. Turn HDR on only when needed if a game cannot enable it on its own. Doom Eternal and Hitman 2 manage fine by themselves, others tend to need enabling HDR first in Display settings.
  6. Open NVCP and select either 3840x2160 (native) 60 Hz or in the PC resolutions section 3840x2160 120 Hz 4:2:0.
  7. Make sure you are using RGB and full dynamic range if you use the 60 Hz option.
Good list, this. I had some doubts about Rtings recommended settings, especially using "isf Expert(Dark Room)" - but having tried it tonight for TV viewing, it presents a much warmer picture, less stunning but also less of the gare and "cool" blue effect you get on the Standard mode.

They're also pretty much spot on with the HDR/Game Mode settings, for PC usage.

Another crucial setting is to turn "Just Scan: On" for PC usage, and possibly for TV use too, to avoid overscan.
 

kasakka

[H]ard|Gawd
Joined
Aug 25, 2008
Messages
1,752
Good list, this. I had some doubts about Rtings recommended settings, especially using "isf Expert(Dark Room)" - but having tried it tonight for TV viewing, it presents a much warmer picture, less stunning but also less of the gare and "cool" blue effect you get on the Standard mode.

They're also pretty much spot on with the HDR/Game Mode settings, for PC usage.

Another crucial setting is to turn "Just Scan: On" for PC usage, and possibly for TV use too, to avoid overscan.
You can configure the Game preset to look pretty much identical, you need to go to the white balance menu and set color temperature to Warm 2. RTings settings are more for TV viewing but generally can be applied to PC use just as well.
 
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