What printers do you all use?

MrE

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Jun 19, 2004
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Figured I'd see what the overall list of 3D peeps like to use for printing. I'll start:


Lulzbot TAZ 6 (This thing is my workhorse)
Robo3D R1+ (Good for detail/cosplay pieces)

I have on the way a Prusa MK3 which should be here by end of month. What printers do you guys have?
 

Willsonman

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Jun 11, 2005
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I have an Anet A8 (Prusa i3 clone). Lots of printed parts to make it better as well as an E3D V6 hot end. Considering I've invested less than $300 into it, I'm pretty happy.

I should also note I ditched the stock controller board for a RAMPS board using Marlin firmware.
 
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Paladin21

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Jun 22, 2004
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I have a Prusa Mk2S (with the 2.5 upgrade on order), a couple of Monoprice Maker Select+, a Monoprice Select Mini, and a kit machine from Kickstarter called a Reach 3d. Prusa is the workhorse, by far, the Monoprice units are all okayish, and the Reach is a labor of love. It's actually pulled apart right now to upgrade the extruder and hot end (which I swear I will get to eventually, it's been down for months).

Oh, and I have all the parts to a complete POS Kickstarter delta-style printer from several years ago called the BI 2.0. I keep thinking I'll buy some stuff off of openbuilds and just make a new delta out of the usable bits, but never have.
 

rudedog

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Dec 23, 2004
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Hictop branded CR-10 with minor mods (dual X, filament holder and bed leveling knobs)
Makerbot replicator 5th Gen

Only use Hictop filament on the CR-10 and Makerbot filament on the Makerbot.
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2006
Messages
2,774
Figured I'd see what the overall list of 3D peeps like to use for printing. I'll start:


Lulzbot TAZ 6 (This thing is my workhorse)
Robo3D R1+ (Good for detail/cosplay pieces)

I have on the way a Prusa MK3 which should be here by end of month. What printers do you guys have?

You’ll love the Prusa - they’ve done a really great job of evolving it as to features and performance across the board. It’ll compete with your Lulzbot as to your workhorse title.
 

notarat

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Mar 28, 2010
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Makerbot Replicator 2 (last of the Open Source Design)
Flashforge Creator Pro
Flashforge Creator X
Rostock Max V2
Monoprice Select Mini v1 (modded)

Don't use 'em as much as I used to but I have been putting the Rep2 through its paces this week after blowing 8 months of dust off of it, lol.
 

Nenu

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Apr 28, 2007
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For basic printing a black and white laser, so when I need it to work, the ink hasnt dried out and the toner lasts forever!
9 years ago I paid £43 for a brand new Samsung ML-2240 1200dpi laser, an absolute steal.
It still produces pages as if it was new and the quality is great.
 
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Joined
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For basic printing a black and white laser, so when I need it to work, the ink hasnt dried out and the toner lasts forever!
9 years ago I paid £43 for a brand new Samsung ML-2240 1200dpi laser, an absolute steal.
It still produces pages as if it was new and the quality is great.

Ummmm... What layer height do you typically use and have you tried ground up black ABS powder instead of laser toner yet?! :p

Thread comprehension score: -1 :D
 
D

Deleted member 88301

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Mine's an old Okidata Microline 92. Still screeching along.
 

notarat

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Makerbot Replicator 2 (last of the Open Source Design)
Flashforge Creator Pro
Flashforge Creator X
Rostock Max V2
Monoprice Select Mini v1 (modded)
HICTOP Creality CR-10

The CR-10 arrived this morning and I spent a couple hours assembling it and then started printing upgraded parts for it. Baseball-sized thumbscrews are awesome! So is an 11.8" x 11.8" x 15.8" build area

CR10.jpg
 

notarat

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And as of 15 minutes ago the CR-10 shown above is boxed back up and ready to ship back to Amazon due to a very bad defect. (Already have the RMA approved and label attached to the box)

I'm ordering its replacement tomorrow...another Creality CR-10, but this time I am getting the the upgraded CR-10S4 version which has 2 Z Axis motors and lead screws, has filament out detection which pauses your print and allows you to resume after changing filament (and it also recovers from power outages!) and it does 15.7" x 15.7" x 15.7" prints. It's a couple hundred more expensive but it stomps the crap out of my Rostock Max V2 (which I may just disassemble to make room for this one, lol.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078V91ST6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1UP0MDHCHSRWP&psc=1



Edited to add: Defect in CR-10 is:

IMAG0338.jpg
 

Jorona

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I'm running a Monoprice Ultimate. Its been solid from day one. Upgraded it to a all metal Microswiss hot end with a .3mm nozzle. Prints come out great.
IMG_20180104_192031.jpg
 

notarat

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35 centimeter * to test the bed leveling on the new CR10-S4. Straight glass. no additives. Filament is 2yr old translucent yellow from hatchbox. Had to blow off 8months of dust from it but it laid down perfectly, though he camera flash makes it look like there were defects. Absolutely gorgeous results so far.

Currently using the Rep2 to print larger feet for the S4 so that I can start designing the replacement control box. (using the rep 2 because it's tweaked for fastest possible printing)

I'm going to gut the control box of the CR-10 and move all components under the bed/frame with a Raspberry Pi and 5.5" touchscreen to run Octoprint for print controls
IMAG0353.jpg
 
Joined
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Flashforge Creator Pro (in the skin of a PowerSpec 3D Pro), MP Mini Select V2, and Original Prusa i3 MK2s.
Replacing the hotend thermistor on the Prusa tonight :D
 

notarat

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Mar 28, 2010
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Flashforge Creator Pro (in the skin of a PowerSpec 3D Pro), MP Mini Select V2, and Original Prusa i3 MK2s.
Replacing the hotend thermistor on the Prusa tonight :D

Replacing the thermistor...That's always a fun task.

I've got my CR-10 completely gutted right now and mock fitting the guts from the control box into a metal box I plan to mount underneath the frame.

I sold my modded MP Mini Select V1 today to a friend from work. Once I get this CR-10 modded like I want I'll likely get another mini. They're great little printers.
 

Lalau2

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Jan 10, 2012
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Ordered a Wanhao Dupicator 9 Mark 1 300mm. Just waiting on it to ship from China to me.
 
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Jayy88

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Mar 9, 2018
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Hell you gonna use it for? hadn't had one in years....print some coupons lol
 

Lalau2

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Well Jayy88 the reason you haven't seen one in years is because it just came out this year! Search it up before you flame somebody. To answer your question because of a build size of 300mm*300mm*400mm.
I have a lot of options on what I am going to print from casters on the bed to a decent size drones!
By the way can you list your 3d printer or printers you use as the title of the post states?
 

notarat

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Well Jayy88 the reason you haven't seen one in years is because it just came out this year! Search it up before you flame somebody. To answer your question because of a build size of 300mm*300mm*400mm.
I have a lot of options on what I am going to print from casters on the bed to a decent size drones!
By the way can you list your 3d printer or printers you use as the title of the post states?

I'm modding my CR-10 S4 this weekend so it's 8 days old and in about 80 pieces, lol. The intake and exhaust holes look rouogh but they are not. I can run my finger around the cut without a scratch. Still have to mouont the power switch, cut the holes for the wiring going to the printer, and cut the USB/MicroSD slots

After that's done I can actually wire it back up and test it.

IMAG0396.jpg
IMAG0397.jpg
 

workshop35

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Nov 24, 2013
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Makerfarm Prusa I3V with an auto bed-leveling mod. Currently working through an overextrusion issue, needs some more firmware tweaks
 

notarat

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Updating my list

Makerbot Replicator 2 (last of the Open Source Design)
Flashforge Creator Pro
Flashforge Creator X
Rostock Max V2
Creality-branded CR-10S
Creality-branded CR-10 S4

Sold the mini and bought another CR-10S
 

danc3

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Jan 13, 2015
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Currently using the Flashforge Creator X. Does its job for the price.
 
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Just received my second PRUSA, this time the Mk3 kit, all in black. Ordered back in late January. They've really ramped up production - should be caught up by the end of April. I'm still amazed with how well the kit is laid out and how good the documentation is. It's pretty rare these days for a company to pay that much attention to detail and quality.
 

Lalau2

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Jan 10, 2012
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Nice! That was my first choice but I really wanted a larger build space. So I choose the D9 and very glad I did.
 

smithkt

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Just received my second PRUSA, this time the Mk3 kit, all in black. Ordered back in late January. They've really ramped up production - should be caught up by the end of April. I'm still amazed with how well the kit is laid out and how good the documentation is. It's pretty rare these days for a company to pay that much attention to detail and quality.

Lucky you. I ordered the same kit week 2 and am still waiting.
 

liqdfire

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Mar 28, 2002
Messages
878
I have a Maker Gear M2, one of their originals, heavily modified, and a Form Labs Form 2
 

SPARTAN VI

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Jun 12, 2004
Messages
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  • Turnigy Fabrikator Mini V1.5
  • Monoprice Maker Select V2
  • Prusa i3 MK2S
Was rocking a Turnigy (aka Tinyboy) Fabrikator Mini V1.5, until something on it borked and it wouldn't respond to repetier commands. Hobby King honored the warranty, but they took so long to diagnose the issue that they couldn't refund me. So I had to use their store credit to buy a fuckton of filament.

So I got a Monoprice Maker Select V2 nearly 2 years ago and it's been better in every possibly way. One struggle that's been consistent with these past 2 printers has been bed leveling. I usually spend the first few minutes of each print adjusting the Z axis to get that perfect 1st layer adhesion, I just wish it wasn't so finicky. Enter the Prusa i3 MK2S, which I assembled with my sister last week. She's never 3D printed in her life, and she was up and running on the MK2S within minutes. Pretty sure I'll never recommend a printer without auto bed leveling (exception: budget restrictions) again.
 

XViper

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Aug 24, 2012
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3x MK2 Prusas. I have a MK3 on order. Just waiting for it to arrive.
I have a Pegasus Makerfarm as well.
 

Logan321

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Oct 9, 2003
Messages
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I got a Flsun Prusa i3 clone that is going to be heavily modified in the near future, as soon as I can ensure it'll print ABS without too many problems.

There are a number of issues with it, including mounting the z motors at the top which causes strain on the under-supported top structure.

It also relies too much on acrylic pieces, which I've had a few break already.
 

MrFuzzy

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Aug 18, 2005
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I just got the Anet A8 waiting for it to arrive not sure what to make first
 

WheresWaldo

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Dec 7, 2004
Messages
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Currently have a heavily modified Robo R1, a custom Marlin firmware based Robo R2, and a cheap Chinese LCD based resin printer.

Thinking of getting a delta just to play with, something small like a Monoprice or similar.
 

GiGaBiTe

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Apr 26, 2013
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I have a Tevo Tarantula, probably the worst 3D printer in existence.

It took three days to assemble from a kit of something like a thousand parts with a piss poor excuse for an assembly book that didn't bother labeling which parts when where. Basically had a complete diagram of every step and left the reader to figure out which fastener/part in the described bag went where. Later steps in the book required redoing previous steps several times because they somehow missed putting parts in when they needed to be.

The originally included firmware before I flashed it was improperly configured so the front 1/3 of the build plate was unusable, as well as it badly missed steps so printing out a complete part was impossible.

The original build plate went up in smoke within a week and I had to fight with the seller on banggood for a month to get a replacement. They tried to get me to perform diagnostics that would clearly void the warranty so they wouldn't have to honor it. I eventually got a second hot bed out of them. After I got it, I carefully cut into the burned one to find out a manufacturing defect where the insulation on the legs of the thermistor was missing, causing it to short against the bed and burn.

Leveling the bed is a nightmare, and it almost always requires re-leveling before every print.

Despite the frame being made from aluminum, it's extremely wobbly on the X/Y axes and requires significant external bracing to avoid print artifacts.

I've not yet been able to make ripple-free print on the Z axis, no matter whether PLA or ABS was used.
 
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