- Nov 13, 2006
This is precisely why I opted to pay a bit more and go with the Prusa MK2S as my first printer. Exact opposite experience building their kit, took about 8 hour to assemble (I took my time, spread it over two days), it has auto bed leveling and has been printing flawlessly since day one.I have a Tevo Tarantula, probably the worst 3D printer in existence.
It took three days to assemble from a kit of something like a thousand parts with a piss poor excuse for an assembly book that didn't bother labeling which parts when where. Basically had a complete diagram of every step and left the reader to figure out which fastener/part in the described bag went where. Later steps in the book required redoing previous steps several times because they somehow missed putting parts in when they needed to be.
The originally included firmware before I flashed it was improperly configured so the front 1/3 of the build plate was unusable, as well as it badly missed steps so printing out a complete part was impossible.
The original build plate went up in smoke within a week and I had to fight with the seller on banggood for a month to get a replacement. They tried to get me to perform diagnostics that would clearly void the warranty so they wouldn't have to honor it. I eventually got a second hot bed out of them. After I got it, I carefully cut into the burned one to find out a manufacturing defect where the insulation on the legs of the thermistor was missing, causing it to short against the bed and burn.
Leveling the bed is a nightmare, and it almost always requires re-leveling before every print.
Despite the frame being made from aluminum, it's extremely wobbly on the X/Y axes and requires significant external bracing to avoid print artifacts.
I've not yet been able to make ripple-free print on the Z axis, no matter whether PLA or ABS was used.
Knowing what you know now, would you have taken a different route?