The highly rated HP Pavilion Slimline PC thread

[yousuckstoo]

Hello again,i post new pictures, now everything its plugged correctly,card reader works as be expected.
Was worried about temps , but everything looks ok using HW Monitor
Max temps playing games was 60°C on the Ryzen 5 1600 using stock cooler, im impressed with the noise levels, isnt audible
If you planning use this case with a ITX project, Ryzen its a perfect choice, excellent performance and a money saver
The hotest part its the GTX 750Ti, locked at 75°C using Afterburner, the case feels warm to the touch, but nothing to be worried.
Added a 92mm fan on the bottom to keep cool the SSD and have some airflow,
I dont recommend Adata SU650 , stays at 55-60°C all the time, dont matter if its idle or gaming
My next steps its wait to a more powerfull card , Nvidia or AMD and maybe a Disc drive

I

 

[Archaea]

75*C for your 750TI will be fine.

 

[yousuckstoo]

Hello again, i keep modifying my slimline, trying to get best airflow
I removed stock 92mm cooler master fan of the heatsink and put a silverstone ar06 92mm low profile fan which i cannot use
because silverstone never offered a am4 mounting kit
Cooler master stock cooler now im using it to keep fresh the SSD
Temps seems little worse on the 1600, but i did this to have some clearance to mount an additional fan
Today arrived my Artic P12 fan ,which i glued on the side door
Clearance are minimal, but its ok, fan blades and wires doesnt get obstructed
Temps dropped to low 50°C on the 1600, VRM temps from mid 60°C to mid 50°C
PSU fan runs a lot quieter and the case feels cold, which i expected with this modifications
By the way , i modded the shuttle stock PSU fan to a premium 40mm x20 mm Noctua fan, a really recommended upgrade
Artic and stock ryzen fan are plugged on a 4pin conector using a 7volt adapter to reduce noise and keeping a decent airflow.

 

[winger0037]

Just wanted to pop in and let y’all know I got her mostly finished. Gotta create something better than tape to block airflow and drill new holes in the primary cover for the video card. But she runs pretty good (and cool with the main cover off!)

 

[winger0037]

Hello again,i post new pictures, now everything its plugged correctly,card reader works as be expected.
Was worried about temps , but everything looks ok using HW Monitor
Max temps playing games was 60°C on the Ryzen 5 1600 using stock cooler, im impressed with the noise levels, isnt audible
If you planning use this case with a ITX project, Ryzen its a perfect choice, excellent performance and a money saver
The hotest part its the GTX 750Ti, locked at 75°C using Afterburner, the case feels warm to the touch, but nothing to be worried.
Added a 92mm fan on the bottom to keep cool the SSD and have some airflow,
I dont recommend Adata SU650 , stays at 55-60°C all the time, dont matter if its idle or gaming
My next steps its wait to a more powerfull card , Nvidia or AMD and maybe a Disc drive
View attachment 217216

IView attachment 217217
View attachment 217218

nice! I’m running a Ryzen 5 2600 in mine and a GT1030

 

[yousuckstoo]

Your build looks nice

Im happy but not satisfied because the stock amd ryzen cooler isnt enough quiet to my expectations
So i decided change the cpu cooler
Looking for a decent and not expensive cooler (top class low profile coolers are to expensive to my budget) i found this gamemax gamma 300 on wish, cost me 24 bucks with shipping using a first buy coupon.
Looks decent, 5 heatpipes with 120mm fan and 85mm tall give me clearance to put it on the hp case
When this cooler arrives i gonna take some pictures to show you the upgrade, the gamemax website shows its compatible with am4 socket.
If you can make the holes on the side Door, Will help you to keep a lot cooler the procesor and vrms, on my rig cpu and vrm stays at 45-60 degress.

 

[GMANZD]

Hello All,
I just recently came across an old HP Slimeline S3600f. It was my grandparents but they got a new comp cause this one wasn't working. It's been sitting in a garage for about 4 years. I recently picked it up and tried to fix it up. Turns out it was just a bad HD. I picked up a new HD and a new CPU, Q9500. It's not on the official list of supported CPU's for the original Irving GL6E mobo, but i saw a forum somewhere that said it's doable. I've update the bios to v 5.23, upgrade RAM to 4GB, got WIN 10 running with the original CPU but can't seem to get the Q9500 cpu to work. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance

 

[kakawak]

Hi Guys,

I recently installed an Asus 1030gt card into my slimline however, it seems to take about 5 mins to boot up into windows 10 whereas before using my k600 quadro it was about 1 min. Any ideas what to do here? the last thing i want to do is another re-install of win 10. Any quick fixes?

Thanks in advance!

 

[jeremyshaw]

Where is it getting stuck? BIOS? Windows load screen?

 

[kakawak]

thanks for quick reply, its on the boot screen where you see the 5 dots spinning around underneath the blue windows logo before it gets to splash screen if that makes sense. i also updated the card with latest drivers from nvidia but it's still the same

 

[pendragon1]

thanks for quick reply, its on the boot screen where you see the 5 dots spinning around underneath the blue windows logo before it gets to splash screen if that makes sense. i also updated the card with latest drivers from nvidia but it's still the same

disconnect any usb drives. my ext HP drive causes my system to at least triple the boot time.

 

[kakawak]

it seemed to be a loose connection on the internal (original) hard drive as it kept disappearing where C: drive and all the other drives are. I don't use this drive for my OS only storage. It's all fixed now anyways.

Thanks guys....theres still life in this old beast yet!

 

[yousuckstoo]

Hello again,after waited 2 months i gave up with the cooler (dont use national post to import products at this moment
They lost my package,the last tracking update was on april 30 and no one knows what happended
I ordered again the cooler using DHL and finally arrived today (5 days to be precise)
The cooler looks pretty cool, but the clearance its minimal, you cannot close the side panel tight or the blades start touching the metal enclosure and making a disturbing noise)
Temps seems pretty good, with the stock cooler the temps was 67°C with a warm weather
After installing the cooler, max temps stays in the low 50c or mid 40 depending the game.
I used the stock ryzen cooler to provide some airflow to the ssd as you can see

 

[yousuckstoo]

After 6 months i can say my Slimline its now 100% like i wanted
I removed the stock fan of the CPU heatsink (Gamemax Gama 300 if someone want to know the exact model)
Because Gamemax stock fan was noisy under load, so i take the Arctic fan i bought it before and fits perfect,
now the noise its minimum and the temps stays the same

The graphics card fans was replaced, because one of them stop running and the temps rises up to 90c
I bought a cheap Gigabyte GT 430 to take the fan , fits good on the heatsink

Other upgrade i made it, its add a second HDD, a toshiba 640gb 7200rpm HDD, and 3.5 to 2.5 braket to mount both drives on the HP stock 3.5 Bay Tray.
If someone plans use this case for build a gaming low profile pc, i highly recommend put a 92mm fan under hdd bay tray
Without the fan , the SSD reach 70C and the heat stay on that zone
The fan drops the temps 20c and the entire case feels cold.

 

[SamirD]

Wow, I had no idea these has such a following--I've had one sitting that needs restoration and imaging for years now. Great to know about the ins and outs of these!

 

[yousuckstoo]

Hello again,im keep doing moddifications to my slimline
I got some extra earnings and i decided upgrade the fan (again) to a Noctua P12 PWM
Artic fan its great, but the weather feels warmer and the fan started spinning at higher rpm and the noise become noticeable, isnt disturbing at all, but i dont like the pitch which produce.
So i bought this P12 , i know the A12 X 25 its better in overall performance, but cost almost the double and the F12 some people says its noisy, i choosed this fan because max dBa is low (18.9)
The P12 spins at low RPM (1300 rpm max) , keeping good air pressure, the pitch of noctua fans its more confortable, i cannot hear it playing games, the fans of the GPU its the noisy part right now.
I bought a cheap X470 board to have the chance to upgrade to a 4000 Ryzen upcoming CPU (i found good B550 boards for a little more, but the newer chipsets dont supports 1st gen Ryzen.so i cannot use it until 4th gen arrives)
I expect to updrage to a 4700 or 4600 ,depending of the costs, 32gb On dual channel, and a ¿2650? or RX 6xx , i hope we can get a full gen mid range graphics card like the 750ti or 7850, both card played all the games of this console generation , i expect the replacement do the same thing.

 

[kakawak]

It looks like i'm going to either sell or possibly keep my slimline for archaic reasons. It will be a sad day as this has been the best small PC i've ever owned considering the 12 years i've had it for sadly it's just past it's sell by date and due to a business closing down i have acquired a job lot of Lenovo ThinkCentre Mini Tower and SFF computers for free so i'm in the process of shunting the GPU to the Lenovo and upgrading the Memory & SSD with a possible upgrade to the i7 4770 processor to max it out in the near future. It is by nowhere near aesthetically pleasing to the eye like the HP Slimline or as small but i need to keep up with the ever changing times of PC's in general. I suppose i could've upgraded the motherboard and kept the main chassis like winger did but the cost of doing so would have escalated the price too much!

Should i keep it or sell it and if the latter, what is the going rate for my spec of slimline?

Thanks in Advance!

 

[yousuckstoo]

I made some changes, Noctua P12 fan start making a strange noise and got for a refund
This fan was replaced with Noiseblocker B12P Bionic Fan, set it to 1500rpm its inaudible and the performace increased (The diference between pull cold air insiode the case, the temperatures on the CPU are better, with one consecuence, the heat stay on the case and the vrm and PSU overheats)
I really recommend set the fan of the cpu cooler pushing the warm air outside, you "lose" 2 or 3 degrees on CPU temps, but the PSU and VRM stays fresh
The PSU fan was replaced too , for the same reason, but it was my fault
When i tried to remove the metal shroud of the psu to improve the airflow , the plastic base of the fan was destroyed as you can see
I bought a SilenX 40mm fan, set to 7 volts and seems runs ok
In the past my old Athena Power PSU shutted down multiple times to prevent overheating , this not the case
I hope Nvidia releases a RTX 3050 Ti Low Profile on the upcoming months, or maybe AMD releases somthing decent for the LP market
I can afford the 1650 LP but i dont like the performance, thinking keep the GC for at least 5 years like the 750ti i have right now

 

[yousuckstoo]

I added a thermalpad to the SSD NAND's and controller, and now the temps dropped 10c (before 55c- after 45c)

Plus i put 4 cooper pads to the motherboard's VRM, Biostar heatsink only covers 4 VRM , 1 of the left side and 2 of the top dont have any heatsink
With the pads now all the VRM are covered , temps reduced by 3c, not much but its something

 

[yousuckstoo]

I received today thermakright TFX thermal paste
The results was insane,considering my previous TP isnt a bad one CM Master Gel Maker
(but now thinking maybe i got a dry unit of the Gel Maker, because the CPU and the cooler glued together when i reaplace the thermal paste, and the last apply was recently two months if i remember well)
I need use some tricks to split it without damage the pins

Before , the CM Master Gel reachs 58-61c on Battlefield 1
Now stays on 50°C
I used on the GPU too, temps dropped to 73-75°c to 66-67°C
The reviews says the TFX TP needs some days to reach max performance, so maybe the temps drops a little more
I recommend this thermal paste, cost me 15 dollars on aliexpress with shipping,seems autenthic looking the results
The only bad thing about this paste, the application is so frustating, you need so much patience to spread the paste on the CPU
On the GPU is simple because a little application was enought to cover all the GPU chip

 

[pendragon1]

need use some tricks to split it without damage the pins

sit in bios for 5 minutes. it will warm it up, then twist it off.

 

[yousuckstoo]

sit in bios for 5 minutes. it will warm it up, then twist it off.

I use dental floss with alcohol, with some force the proccesor thankfully came out with success
And all pins are ok.

 

[pendragon1]

I use dental floss with alcohol, with some force the proccesor thankfully came out with success
And all pins are ok.

i guess that would work. try the warm up method next time, much easier.

 

[AirCool2]

Folks, I need some advice on CPU upgrade.

I have the s5150t:

https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c01793056

using the Pegatron IPIEL-LA3 / Eureka3-GL8 motherboard. Currently running a E5300 Dual Core CPU. I thought of upgrading to Quad Core. Without enough research, I bought a modified Xeon E5450. Sure enough, it didn't boot. 1 short, 1 long beep. Black screen.

After checking some forums, it seems my motherboard is not compatible with the Xeon processor.

https://www.delidded.com/lga-771-to-775-adapter/3/#pegatron
https://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=3643&cpuList=HP IPIEL-LA3 (Eureka3)
https://www.bios-mods.com/forum/Thread-IPIEL-LA3-Request-to-inject-Xeon-microcode-to-HP-BIOS

Based on the last thread, it does not look like there is a BIOS that can support the CPU. I will accept my loss. I still want to upgrade my CPU. What would be a good alternative? The Q9550 has a TDP of 95W. Even though it is within spec of Slimline, I am concerned if my P/S can handle it. Please advice.

 

[yousuckstoo]

Folks, I need some advice on CPU upgrade.

I have the s5150t:

https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c01793056

using the Pegatron IPIEL-LA3 / Eureka3-GL8 motherboard. Currently running a E5300 Dual Core CPU. I thought of upgrading to Quad Core. Without enough research, I bought a modified Xeon E5450. Sure enough, it didn't boot. 1 short, 1 long beep. Black screen.

After checking some forums, it seems my motherboard is not compatible with the Xeon processor.

https://www.delidded.com/lga-771-to-775-adapter/3/#pegatron
https://www.game-debate.com/motherboard/index.php?mot_id=3643&cpuList=HP IPIEL-LA3 (Eureka3)
https://www.bios-mods.com/forum/Thread-IPIEL-LA3-Request-to-inject-Xeon-microcode-to-HP-BIOS

Based on the last thread, it does not look like there is a BIOS that can support the CPU. I will accept my loss. I still want to upgrade my CPU. What would be a good alternative? The Q9550 has a TDP of 95W. Even though it is within spec of Slimline, I am concerned if my P/S can handle it. Please advice.

With the stock cooler
you gonna fry the CPU and VRM's if you put a 95 watts TDP procesor inside this tiny case

To keep VRM on safe temps with a 65 watts TDP processor, i spent 40 bucks on a high performance cooler,
Because with the stock Ryzen cooler, altough the CPU temps stays safe, the VRM's just heat up to a toasty 90°C , all the heat stays on the VRM and PSU zones
If i touched the case on the VRM zone, my fingers literally burns instantly.
This case isnt built to put a high TDP procesor and graphics cards.

I dont know whats your full config , but.
Why you dont try speed up your config with a SATA 3 SSD?
Maybe its a better idea because you can recycle the SSD on a newer build on the future
Now a decent ssd for the Main OS (120 or 240gb) are really cheap
All C2Q processors are obsolete at this point , you can do a better multitask thanks to the 4 cores, i accept, but thats all
For basic HTPC tasks you Dual Core can be enough .
A SSD speed up the daily usage a lot , even with low specs hardware, and old SATA versions.
A Second upgrade you should consider : A RAM stick
You can do all basic tasks with 8gb
So if you have 4 or less GB, try to buy a cheap used ram stick to increase the max ram available.
If you insist to upgrade the processor, you can consider the "S" versions of the Core 2 Quad, with 65 watts TDP.

 

[AirCool2]

With the stock cooler
you gonna fry the CPU and VRM's if you put a 95 watts TDP procesor inside this tiny case

To keep VRM on safe temps with a 65 watts TDP processor, i spent 40 bucks on a high performance cooler,
Because with the stock Ryzen cooler, altough the CPU temps stays safe, the VRM's just heat up to a toasty 90°C , all the heat stays on the VRM and PSU zones
If i touched the case on the VRM zone, my fingers literally burns instantly.
This case isnt built to put a high TDP procesor and graphics cards.

I dont know whats your full config , but.
Why you dont try speed up your config with a SATA 3 SSD?
Maybe its a better idea because you can recycle the SSD on a newer build on the future
Now a decent ssd for the Main OS (120 or 240gb) are really cheap
All C2Q processors are obsolete at this point , you can do a better multitask thanks to the 4 cores, i accept, but thats all
For basic HTPC tasks you Dual Core can be enough .
A SSD speed up the daily usage a lot , even with low specs hardware, and old SATA versions.
A Second upgrade you should consider : A RAM stick
You can do all basic tasks with 8gb
So if you have 4 or less GB, try to buy a cheap used ram stick to increase the max ram available.
If you insist to upgrade the processor, you can consider the "S" versions of the Core 2 Quad, with 65 watts TDP.

I am already using SSD in my Slimline and upgraded RAM. I am using onboard graphics so far as I don't want to put too much load on my PC. I want to upgrade CPU because it seems everyday browsing appears to be slowing down (most noticeable being Amazon.com).

I have previously upgraded a similar, lower spec'd 775 board with E5430 and the result was very good. Everything run smoother.

I am thinking of getting Q9550 as this slimline model can be ordered with a Q9300 which is also 95W TDP, although I am not sure if it comes with the same HeatSink Fan. Are there any downside of using the Q9550S instead? It appears to sport the same performance including the same amount of cache. But it costs almost 3x as the Q9550.

 

[AirCool2]

This sucks. I bought a Q9550 and tried it. Once again, it is not booting.

My board says IPIEL-LA3 but it is Rev 1.01 instead of Rev 1.02. I am out of ideas. My current BIOS is 5.05. Does anyone know where to find the latest BIOS? HP's site isn't giving me any help. Looks like they completely dropped the support for it.

https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c01793056

I managed to find a couple of BIOS sp46434.exe (rev 6.07) and sp56794.exe (rev 6.09). The 6.07 get blocked by my Windows 10. The 6.09 runs but once it started updating the BIOS, it throws an error of "incorrect bios for your system (253), please download patch again ". I don't know if it is related to me using Windows 10 instead of the required Windows 7 or if my model is different and it refuses to update.

(Edit: my current BIOS is 5.05, not 5.09)

 

[yousuckstoo]

This sucks. I bought a Q9550 and tried it. Once again, it is not booting.

My board says IPIEL-LA3 but it is Rev 1.01 instead of Rev 1.02. I am out of ideas. My current BIOS is 5.09. Does anyone know where to find the latest BIOS? HP's site isn't giving me any help. Looks like they completely dropped the support for it.

https://support.hp.com/us-en/document/c01793056

I managed to find a couple of BIOS sp46434.exe (rev 6.07) and sp56794.exe (rev 6.09). The 6.07 get blocked by my Windows 10. The 6.09 runs but once it started updating the BIOS, it throws an error of "incorrect bios for your system (253), please download patch again ". I don't know if it is related to me using Windows 10 instead of the required Windows 7 or if my model is different and it refuses to update.

Just leave it there, you gonna brick / fry the BIOS , on that case can only be recovered with a usb programmer and some special programs.
And that will cost you more money.
Windows version isnt the factor you cant install the updated BIOS,
If the the meta info inside the BIOS update doesnt match the revision of the chip
Thats why shows that message , to prevent a BIOS brick.

 

[AirCool2]

So I still haven't given up. I tried a Q9300.

And... it has the same exact behavior! I am at loss. How can the model that officially specifically listed to support Q9300, not POST with a Q9300?

(edit: found someone with a similar experience:
https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Deskt...5uk-slimline-cpu-upgrade-problem/td-p/6686670
https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/pc-not-booting-after-cpu-change.3232242/
)

 

[yousuckstoo]

So I still haven't given up. I tried a Q9300.

And... it has the same exact behavior! I am at loss. How can the model that officially specifically listed to support Q9300, not POST with a Q9300?

(edit: found someone with a similar experience: https://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Deskt...5uk-slimline-cpu-upgrade-problem/td-p/6686670)

How much you spent at this point?
I dont undertand the insistence to upgrade a obsolete platform
With the S5000 case ,you can install easily a Micro ATX Motherboard
A cheap AM4/ Intel motherboard with a budget CPU could be a better idea
Instead wasting the money trying to make work this project.
Got that case on the past, with 80 bucks i build a decent gaming pc with i5 2400s+h61 motherboard+8gb ram
I told you the warnings about getting a 95 watts TDP CPU on this case, becasue before this build
choosed AMD FX 6300 (95 watts TDP procesor) and some ECS Motherboard , and one day playing GTA V the VRM's caught fire
After that day i never put a 95 watts TDP procesor on the this slimlines cases, only 65 watts or less.

 

[AirCool2]

Spent $60 so far.

Years ago, I had very good experience upgrading CPU on my other 775 motherboard. It was a relatively painless upgrade and it breaths new life on old hardware. I thought this Slimline with more RAM (12GB) and SSD would be perfect for upgrade. You should not discount the benefit of time saved to transfer/reinstall everything. I will also need to get new RAM since there is no way the DDR3 will be compatible. Of course, it is all a moot point given the time I spent so far. In fact, I almost had a heart attack when my Windows is not booting after I reset the BIOS (turns out it defaults to IDE, I switched to AHCI after installing SSD). I wish I could go back in time and give myself a good slap before I bought my first Xeon processor.

No ideas what HP did but it is not happy about me changing its CPU.

I appreciate your replies. But I disagree with you that the TDP could be an issue. I have CPU temp monitoring running from time to time to make sure I don't overheat. I am not using it for gaming and I am not running discrete graphics and given that the stock configuration lists Q9300 as an option, I don't think the s5150t would have trouble with a 95W TDP CPU.

I am throwing in the towel. Not going to try to upgrade this Slimline any more. I will leave this thread here to serve as a warning for someone in the future.

I will take some rest now. When I recovered from this trauma, I may try reusing the X5450 on my other board since the X5450 is slightly faster.

 

[jeremyshaw]

It may not be true for the ol' Slimline, but some OEMs do use different MB or different VRM configurations for higher wattage CPUs. Lenovo, for instance, does this. Newer HPs have unpopulated VRMs on their walmart models, so I have to assume they did this as well.

That being said, I'm happy to see this thread is still seeing some activity over the years. It's what attracted me to [H] after all Too bad your Slimline project didn't work out I still have a tiny soft spot for these machines.

 

[yousuckstoo]

Spent $60 so far.

Years ago, I had very good experience upgrading CPU on my other 775 motherboard. It was a relatively painless upgrade and it breaths new life on old hardware. I thought this Slimline with more RAM (12GB) and SSD would be perfect for upgrade. You should not discount the benefit of time saved to transfer/reinstall everything. I will also need to get new RAM since there is no way the DDR3 will be compatible. Of course, it is all a moot point given the time I spent so far. In fact, I almost had a heart attack when my Windows is not booting after I reset the BIOS (turns out it defaults to IDE, I switched to AHCI after installing SSD). I wish I could go back in time and give myself a good slap before I bought my first Xeon processor.

No ideas what HP did but it is not happy about me changing its CPU.

I appreciate your replies. But I disagree with you that the TDP could be an issue. I have CPU temp monitoring running from time to time to make sure I don't overheat. I am not using it for gaming and I am not running discrete graphics and given that the stock configuration lists Q9300 as an option, I don't think the s5150t would have trouble with a 95W TDP CPU.

I am throwing in the towel. Not going to try to upgrade this Slimline any more. I will leave this thread here to serve as a warning for someone in the future.

I will take some rest now. When I recovered from this trauma, I may try reusing the X5450 on my other board since the X5450 is slightly faster.

Look on Aliexpress , you can find cheap but decent motherboards for Xeon processors if you wanna try on the future a new build.
The VRM s on this case suffers if they arent cooled with a decent heasink, my X470NH motherboard shows 58-63°C with a copper heasink playing games
I set the cpu fan pushing hot air outside, if i leave on the opposite direction (pushing cold air inside the case)
The CPU runs cooler but the VRM temps reachs 90°C and the case burns to the touch, on the VRM zone.
And this is only with the Ryzen 1600 65 watts TDP processor on stock frecuencies and a high performance cooler.
A recurrent problem with the stock motherboard on the slimline was the poorly made Southbridge
The integrated video just dies , thanks to the crappy heatsink they used it.
With a 95 watts TDP processors the heat on the MB gonna increases and if you got a bad MB at some point gonna fail
I always bought this slimline cases really cheap cases
because the people just want to recover some money , most of the S3000 slimlines are dead at this point
Plus the stock PSU isnt the best they can put, and the crappy motherboard (on some models , no at all) at some point start failing and the people dont wanna pay 50 bucks for a special PSU or Motherboard

 

[AirCool2]

At this point, there is no reason to invest in a 775 motherboard. Something from the last 3 years would make more sense.

I also have the s3000 slimline. The motherboard failed but the case is still good. The key to reuse is finding the adapter to convert the mini power to standard 20/24 pin. The other issue is finding a motherboard that does not require CPU power or come up with an adapter for that. Back then, I used an AMD E350 APU motherboard. It works fine for video playback. Not sure if there are modern motherboard that would still fit.

 

[jeremyshaw]

We experimented a lot with other PSUs, if you check the OP. But since that time, there have been other advancements in PSU land. Internal DC-DC PSUs have grown quite a bit more popular for SFF PCs, as have FlexATX PSUs (I don't remember if Flex ATX fit or not - I think it didn't, based on my testing, somewhere in the OP). One could now use a DC-DC board with a regular mITX or mDTX board and rig a laptop power brick internally.

If you want to keep the original PSU (it's really old, now, with likely aging capacitors), then the adapter was a mini fit adapter (Molex name was Mini fit Jr, iirc). Here is an ebay link to a current listing ATX 24 Pin PSU to HP SLIMLINE Mini 24 Pin Converter Adapter Cable Length 6" | eBay

I have one of the adaptors, somewhere.

I do agree, 775 is pretty dated and not really worth the cost of getting it up to speed, anymore.

S3000 series case is still a nice enough case, IMO (I have s3430f), but with the 5.25" drive installed, heatsink choice is limited.

In the end, I was happy for the case's service, put it aside (still pulled it out every once in a while when I required another PC, though ever since I've gotten a few Raspberry Pis, I haven't used the old Slimline), and moved onto other setups. It was still my first serious entry into PCs and [H], so I'm still thankful for what was ultimately a near arbitrary PC purchasing decision at Fry's.


EDIT: I also sometimes favor Archaea's posts a bit more over others.

 

[yousuckstoo]

My Shuttle PC60 start failing some days ago
No matter which game i tried to play the system reboots instantly
Thankfully i kept the Shuttle PC63J , used on a older pc build
With the stock shroud the PC63J dont let me put back the motherboard, the PSU its too big and block one screw hole for the motherboard
But if i remove the PC60 shroud and put in the PC63J , theres enough clerarance to install in the S3000 case without blocking the motherboard holes
Now i got a 500 watts PSU on my rig
I think now i can install a RTX 3050 or RX 6600 without be worried about energy requierements (new GPU uses more energy)
So im waiting for a decent low profile mid range GPU to upgrade my old GTX 750ti.

 

[yousuckstoo]

Hello again, i bought a new cpu cooler,
The fan started making some annoying noises and someone told me its caused by the fan, its too close to the side panel this produce turbuleces which amplifies the DBa of the fan.
So i choosed the Thermalright AXP 100 Full Cooper, its only 44mm tall (vs 60mm of the Gamemax) with the 120mm Eloop fan the tall will increase to 69mm
With 15mm clearence will be enogh to avoid the turbulences

Im thinking buy too a 1TB NVME, delaying the new GPU for a couple weeks or even a month considering the low stock of the lastest High end gpu
Its 99% secure the low stock for the RTX 3050Ti and we know not all manufacturers produces low profile variants (Zotac, MSI and Gigabyte are the most common which releases high performance low profile cards)
Plus i dont wanna pay the Overprice for a mid range card (i have 400 USD on credit, some leakers put the cost around 250, so im not gonna spend more than 300USD on it)
The 750Ti keeps fighting but im dissapointed i cannot run Valhalla and some newer games requieres a better Gpu (Cold War runs ok on 720p at lowest settings but looks awful and blurry)

 

[Chry]

Just wanted to pop in and let y’all know I got her mostly finished. Gotta create something better than tape to block airflow and drill new holes in the primary cover for the video card. But she runs pretty good (and cool with the main cover off!)

Great stuff and great cable management! Thanks for sharing.

If you do put the cover back on, consider an extension to the fan shroud (so it is flush with the side of the case) to ensure it pulls fresh air from outside. Similar for the GPU. (I know it may be intolerable heat with the side on anyway...)

Also the CD drive sides could be cut out (if inclined) (could play well with a intake fan in front bottom to pair with the one you have top back for throughflow)

Just ideas, great work, happy new year

 

[Chry]

Hello again, i bought a new cpu cooler,
The fan started making some annoying noises and someone told me its caused by the fan, its too close to the side panel this produce turbuleces which amplifies the DBa of the fan.
So i choosed the Thermalright AXP 100 Full Cooper, its only 44mm tall (vs 60mm of the Gamemax) with the 120mm Eloop fan the tall will increase to 69mm
With 15mm clearence will be enogh to avoid the turbulences

Im thinking buy too a 1TB NVME, delaying the new GPU for a couple weeks or even a month considering the low stock of the lastest High end gpu
Its 99% secure the low stock for the RTX 3050Ti and we know not all manufacturers produces low profile variants (Zotac, MSI and Gigabyte are the most common which releases high performance low profile cards)
Plus i dont wanna pay the Overprice for a mid range card (i have 400 USD on credit, some leakers put the cost around 250, so im not gonna spend more than 300USD on it)
The 750Ti keeps fighting but im dissapointed i cannot run Valhalla and some newer games requieres a better Gpu (Cold War runs ok on 720p at lowest settings but looks awful and blurry)

I like your work and returning to this thread to see your improvements each time! Thanks for sharing!

Some ideas that I never got round to on my slimline for your consideration:

• For your situation of the fan clashing with the side of the case (I know you have changed fan (twice since then and this is no longer an issue) some spacer (marked purple below) might have ensured fan had some tiny clearance (if the lid could still shut!)
• You may want to try and remove the CD sides (marked blue below) - the DVD is presumably never going back in and I am pretty sure they are half blocking your intake fan at the bottom ?
• My other idea was the bit marked orange -- might it be possible to bridge to this from the SSD /HDD with thermal pad and thus use it as a bit of a heatsink/heatspreader for these devices? (again, I think you might have fixed these already with your mods!)

Just ideas, like your innovation so far and look forward to your plans also, happy new year

 

[yousuckstoo]

I like your work and returning to this thread to see your improvements each time! Thanks for sharing!

Some ideas that I never got round to on my slimline for your consideration:

• For your situation of the fan clashing with the side of the case (I know you have changed fan (twice since then and this is no longer an issue) some spacer (marked purple below) might have ensured fan had some tiny clearance (if the lid could still shut!)
• You may want to try and remove the CD sides (marked blue below) - the DVD is presumably never going back in and I am pretty sure they are half blocking your intake fan at the bottom ?
• My other idea was the bit marked orange -- might it be possible to bridge to this from the SSD /HDD with thermal pad and thus use it as a bit of a heatsink/heatspreader for these devices? (again, I think you might have fixed these already with your mods!)

Just ideas, like your innovation so far and look forward to your plans also, happy new year

View attachment 314981

Hi

I replaced the Gammax 300 cooler, because there no clearance with the side door and that produces turbulence , increasing the real dB fan noise.
My repleacement was a Thermalright AXP 100 Full Copper with Eloop B12P 120mm fan locked @1400rpm, 17dB and 50-58°C on CPU intesive games
Its really expensive but justify every cent in this case, the total height of the AXP 100 its 68mm vs 85mm of the Gamma 300, turbulence noise dissapear entirely.
I dont have anymore the stock 92mm AMD fan, sadly i cut the fan wires trying to remove it some time ago
( im gonna buy it again because its 25mm thick and focus on air presure which works better on this small cases, locked a 1600 rpm keep the SSD and HDD cold and remains silent)
The Thermalright 100mm x 15mm fan which came with the heatsink its now the replacement, i need to push it to the limit the DVD Caddy, but fits
Sadly dont move a lot of air, my SSD and HDD temps are worse, but its better than nothing
About the DVD Drive caddy, i dont have the tools to cut that part, i keep it because the bottom part works to install the SSD and HDD and the temps was really good with the AMD fan
(48°C SSD and 42°C HDD. Now im getting 55-57°C on the SSD and 48°c on HDD).
You can install 2 SSD 2.5 on the top of the caddy, you only need double side tape
I bought a 1TB Nvme SSD , but i dont use it yet, im saving money to adquire Thermalright Oddysey 1.5mm thermalpads to use the case as a heatsink
(SSD its installed on the back of the motherboard)
The PSU of the picture died some months ago, now i managed to fit a 500 watts Shuttle PC63J
This PSU uses 2 fans searching produce the minimum noise as possible
A SilentX Xtrema 40mm x 25mm fan to push hot air outside locked at 7 volts (probably makes around 11-12dB)
On the other side i put a Delta 50 x 15mm fan , to bring cold air , locked at 7 volts too
I share you a picture showing the mods i applied at this point and the considerations of this case to get the best temps possible
If you put the fan of the cpu heatsink pushing cold air from the outside, the caddy zone and the PSU receives the hot air of rthe aluminum fins ,
Without the AMD Stock fan installed the dvd drive zone gets really hot (SSD reach 73°C and the case on that zone burns to the touch)
If you flip the cpu cooler fan (pushing hot air outside), cpu temps gets worse by 3-5°C but the entire case keeps fresh
Saddly 99% of the fans makes more noise pushing hot air (i heard about fans desingned to push hot air, but they are thick and super expensive (35mm against 25mm)
I hope someone helps this mods to build a best build without waste money trying diferent parts
My lasts planed upgrades are
Upgrade AMD ryzen 1600 to 5600/5800 (non x)
A decent low profile graphics card (6700/6600XT or RTX 3050tI)
And buy a second stick of ram to apply dual channel (2 x 16gb)