Teh Uber L33t Aqua-Computer Thread :)

[ShoNuff]

Anyone else had trouble getting the A-C temp probes out of their G 1/8 push-fit connectors? I think the probe bodies may be oversize or the groove on the probe is not made to spec. I sure hope that they weren't designed to not come out I'm glad I planned on using Innovatek temp probes with my Aquaero.

Added: I got it out, but jeez I had to pry it out with a flat bladed screwdriver !

I've never tried to get one out. Maybe AC did design those to be permanent? A few bucks for the sensor and a couple bucks for the legris fitting...I could see that.

I thought you were going to use the 6/8mm tubing with your setup? Well, I guess not if you are going to use the Innovatek temp monitor. Anyway, I am looking forward to all of that shinny silver. What you are using 10, 11 silver blocks now?

 

[Top Nurse]

Not sure about the "no extra cost" thing since it appears that the sharka one is almost 20 bucks more than the one from 'other dealers'. Mine also included the G1/8 fittings - I did not have to pay extra. The "1/4" and "1/8" does not actually refer to the physical size of the fitting so the "1/4" is not twice as big as the "1/8". Considering the fact that the AC pump is twice as much as the standard 1046 pump I would not recommend it unless you are building a AC system. Unless you plan on using your Aquastream with a Aquaero display you can save 50 dollars just by getting the standard 1046 and then getting adapters that fit your pump, either 1/2, 3/8 barb, P&C or compression.

Well I was just basing it on looking at the two websites and one had the G 1/8 Eheim adapters for $10 as an extra cost so perhaps you got yours as a freebie or a special deal You are correct about the size difference being not linear. However, the G 1/4 option just gives you considerably more choices if say you wanted to pair it up to an Aquaero and Innovatek coolers for example or you wanted to run a 3/8 ID. If you look at both a G 1/8 and a G 1/4 8/6mm push-fit fitting it should be obvious that you are going to get better flow out of the G 1/4 fitting due to the internal hole size through the fitting being less restrictive.

I was kind of leery of putting a standard Eheim 1046 pump in my case as I didn't want any 60 cycle hum problems from running a 110 AC line inside my case. And yes the Aquastream pump is a little pricey, but the flow can be adjusted, it has some nice bells and whistles, and just looks cooler IMHO.

As far as the pricing goes I noticed that somethings are higher and some things are lower between different distributors. I was never one to quibble over a few bucks when the service is there and they have the stuff I want in stock But the bottom line is that more distributors of A-C products will only lead to more choices for the Aqua-Fanz's, which is what this difference appears to be.

 

[Top Nurse]

If you don't have the black faceplate already pm me and I'll hook you up.

Thanks for the offer but when I ordered my stuff from Sharka he wasn't sure if he was actually going to take the line on so I ordered all the extra plates for everything I thought I could dream up In fact my black Aquastream and Aquaero plates should be leaving Austria Monday morning if they haven't already left.

I was going to use the black faceplate covered with a piece of UV Green acrylic on top of it. I just don't have the skills with acrylic to cut it. I tried but it just didn't come out right. I used a whole piece of 11x17 acrylic trying to make a decent cut.

I was never good with acrylic or plexi either, but my brother seems to have just the right artistic and engineering qualities to do it for me. He used to use the stuff to make underwater camera cases.

When you cut the hole make sure you use the metric size so that you don't have to go back and widen the hole. It was a bear to enlarge evenly. I would have rather just used the right hole saw from the beginning.

Well I was looking around and metric hole saws in that size seem far and few between. I think I may have found a 3.125" hole saw from McMaster Carr on page 2209 unless someone knows where I can obtain an 80mm hole saw? Thought about asking Franz to send me one over, but I want to cut this week sometime

 

[modsquad2]

Anyone else had trouble getting the A-C temp probes out of their G 1/8 push-fit connectors? I think the probe bodies may be oversize or the groove on the probe is not made to spec. I sure hope that they weren't designed to not come out I'm glad I planned on using Innovatek temp probes with my Aquaero.

Added: I got it out, but jeez I had to pry it out with a flat bladed screwdriver !

Yes same problem. They are hard to get out..Don't have to worry about them leaking with a "tight-fit" like that I guess..

 

[Top Nurse]

Yes same problem. They are hard to get out..Don't have to worry about them leaking with a "tight-fit" like that I guess..

I think I would rather have a push-fit fitting that works the way it is supposed to be. I got a call in to a Parker engineer to see what they can come up with. I *think* the issue might be with the groove on the temp probe not being to spec.

 

[Top Nurse]

I've never tried to get one out. Maybe AC did design those to be permanent? A few bucks for the sensor and a couple bucks for the legris fitting...I could see that.

I thought you were going to use the 6/8mm tubing with your setup? Well, I guess not if you are going to use the Innovatek temp monitor. Anyway, I am looking forward to all of that shinny silver. What you are using 10, 11 silver blocks now?

Not me as I like things to work the way they are supposed to. Actually I plan on using the Innovatek sensors for several different reasons. Primarily I think it is a better design though after I get this A-C one I bought apart I will have a better answer. The Innovatek design allows for unscrewing the sensor from the union, thus allowing the enterprising modder to make their own sensors for whatever tubing size you want. But for those who don't want to go to that kind of trouble the 6/8mm tubing does go onto the Innovatek fitting if you heat the tube up a little bit first. The other reason is that the wires come stock a hell of a lot longer than those short little devils on the A-C probes.

Sorry but I ain't no rich bitch yet so I have to limit myself down to only 3 silver blocks (XT and Twinplex x 2). But I was thinking of a gold plated Aquatube and Aquajet... lol

BTW, you planning on picking it up when it comes in or having it shipped?

 

[ShoNuff]

BTW, you planning on picking it up when it comes in or having it shipped?

I've never been to HB so I might just have to roll on' down there and pick things up live and in person. The downside to that is that I will see more stuff I want and end up spending way more than I planned on.

Well it's only money right?

edit: Mapquest shows it's a little less than an hours drive to Sharka. Chances are I will pick it up as I will probably be leaving from Santa Monica. As long as I can get down there and back before the knuckle heads get on the 405 it's all good.

 

[dgkulzer]

Well I was just basing it on looking at the two websites and one had the G 1/8 Eheim adapters for $10 as an extra cost so perhaps you got yours as a freebie or a special deal You are correct about the size difference being not linear. However, the G 1/4 option just gives you considerably more choices if say you wanted to pair it up to an Aquaero and Innovatek coolers for example or you wanted to run a 3/8 ID. If you look at both a G 1/8 and a G 1/4 8/6mm push-fit fitting it should be obvious that you are going to get better flow out of the G 1/4 fitting due to the internal hole size through the fitting being less restrictive.

I was kind of leery of putting a standard Eheim 1046 pump in my case as I didn't want any 60 cycle hum problems from running a 110 AC line inside my case. And yes the Aquastream pump is a little pricey, but the flow can be adjusted, it has some nice bells and whistles, and just looks cooler IMHO.

As far as the pricing goes I noticed that somethings are higher and some things are lower between different distributors. I was never one to quibble over a few bucks when the service is there and they have the stuff I want in stock But the bottom line is that more distributors of A-C products will only lead to more choices for the Aqua-Fanz's, which is what this difference appears to be.

I just broke out my caliper and measured the inside of one of my G1/8 fittings and it was a touch under 5mm. I had previously thought that the G1/8 was closer to 6mm which is the inside diameter of the AC hose. The adapter itself is about 5.7 mm internal so having the larger G1/4 fitting on the outlet would probably help make the WC circuit less restrictive. Since all of my blocks are AC and use G1/8 fittings it wouldnt really help me much.

The inlet itself is just a 3/8" BSPP, I bought a 3/8" BSPP push-fit fitting from mcmaster so I could run a larger tube size from my external res to the pump. The outlet fitting is more 'goofy', not really sure what it is.

Modsquad (I think he is using Modsquad2 on this forum) used a standard 1046 in his recent build. From his pics on bit-tech he did use a steel cover from AC to cut out EMI and the like. I bought one for my setup also but only because I thought it would look cool.

 

[ShoNuff]

Modsquad (I think he is using Modsquad2 on this forum) used a standard 1046 in his recent build. From his pics on bit-tech he did use a steel cover from AC to cut out EMI and the like. I bought one for my setup also but only because I thought it would look cool.

I agree, the chromed FMJ that Modsquad uses for his project on Bit-Tech is very nice. For that reason alone I would also use one. I was curious to see if swapping out pumps would effect my overclock and system stability between an Eheim 1048 (background) and a 1046 as I heard other speak of EMI having an impact on system stability. Both pumps were approx 2 inches from my CPU for both tests.

For me, there was no difference and the impact of any EMI could not be measured. My old system allowed me to take a 3.2EE cpu to 4.1GHz with both pumps. Granted I did not shield either pump, I think we would agree that this "anecdotal" test establishes that EMI is probably not a big issue with the smaller Eheim pumps.

 

[Vlad335]

SnoNuff.

More pics! I gots sum cream in my jeans! Lets see some more of that system.

Btw... Was that your aquatube that was in the pic I posted earlier? If it was I would like to personally thank you for sending me down the road of future financial ruin.

 

[modsquad2]

I agree with Sho. The Aqua-Computer Full Metal Jacket is designed to help with EMI, but what it really does is make there AquaStream pumps more attractive (they aslo make a FMJ for the 1048). Stock from AC the FMJ comes in a "strange black-greenish" color. It would need to be painted or chrome plated.
A few pictures of the FMJ as well as the latest version of the P/C fittings for the AquaStream/Eheim 1046 pump mentioned a few posts back.

 

[Shoggy]

Good news: the problem with updating the Aquaeros is found. Now they are adjusting the software.
I guess at beginnig of the week there should be new files for updating.

 

[Aviddigi]

What about the people that have already damaged thier aquaeros lol
I spent 100.00 to ship my stuff back to Gleichen, aquaero/aquastream/ a bunch of candy because im a nice guy. But i think out of everything i sell these two items i will probably keep for my next setup.

 

[ShoNuff]

ShoNuff.

More pics! I gots sum cream in my jeans! Lets see some more of that system.

Btw... Was that your aquatube that was in the pic I posted earlier? If it was I would like to personally thank you for sending me down the road of future financial ruin.

Yep that was my Aquatube. LOL. I am going to do another project log. The linked PL is difficult to follow. The next one will be better. Everything in this log has changed. You will like the upcoming project log. I have a lot of new toys!

 

[Vlad335]

Attempted to mount my grill this afternoon. Lets just say it didn't go very well...

The Evo360 grill does not line up with my Asetek radiator. Whats perplexing is the screw holes not only don't fit in-line down the side, the grill is off slightly in width as well. To top it all! The holes are not completely out of line, Just enough so you can't drill and tap new ones!

<rant>Damn Germans! Denmark is just north of you for petes sake! Why do you have to do everything completely different from everyone else and refuse to follow a standard?
</rant>

Ok... I surrender. Call off the Stukas. Its time to buy an Airplex 360.

Deutschland uber alles!

 

[R1ckCa1n]

I've never been to HB so I might just have to roll on' down there and pick things up live and in person. The downside to that is that I will see more stuff I want and end up spending way more than I planned on.

Well it's only money right?

edit: Mapquest shows it's a little less than an hours drive to Sharka. Chances are I will pick it up as I will probably be leaving from Santa Monica. As long as I can get down there and back before the knuckle heads get on the 405 it's all good.

You can figure 35 minutes from LAX (with no traffic) is a good gage of how long it takes to get to Sharka. The good part is they are only a mile or so off the 405.

Just plan on leaving Sharka by 2pm to avoid any traffic.

 

[R1ckCa1n]

Good news: the problem with updating the Aquaeros is found. Now they are adjusting the software.
I guess at beginnig of the week there should be new files for updating.

You can email it to me and I will test it!!!!!!!!

 

[Vlad335]

Dude. Why do you do this? Do you have no sympathy?

Taunt me no further!

 

[Aviddigi]

Attempted to mount my grill this afternoon. Lets just say it didn't go very well...

The Evo360 grill does not line up with my Asetek radiator. Whats perplexing is the screw holes not only don't fit in-line down the side, the grill is off slightly in width as well. To top it all! The holes are not completely out of line, Just enough so you can't drill and tap new ones!

<rant>Damn Germans! Denmark is just north of you for petes sake! Why do you have to do everything completely different from everyone else and refuse to follow a standard?
</rant>

Ok... I surrender. Call off the Stukas. Its time to buy an Airplex 360.

Deutschland uber alles!

Dont do that i have a water cool HTF x 3 triple rev stainless all the way around, and i can send you the hardware i used. One bad thing is you will have to drill out the holes on your 360 grill one size bigger so the hardware will work PICS http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=881561 Also the water cool rads let you use fans on both sides, AC does not.

The FS thread http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=900348
Heres the RAD at it trade http://www.it-trade.at/newshop/prod...d=412&osCsid=8d1dc51054e26a478a6500b09a7c0866

 

[Top Nurse]

...The downside to that is that I will see more stuff I want and end up spending way more than I planned on.

You should talk to R1ckCa1n about that little "problem."

 

[Top Nurse]

...as I heard other speak of EMI having an impact on system stability. Both pumps were approx 2 inches from my CPU for both tests.

For me, there was no difference and the impact of any EMI could not be measured. My old system allowed me to take a 3.2EE cpu to 4.1GHz with both pumps. Granted I did not shield either pump, I think we would agree that this "anecdotal" test establishes that EMI is probably not a big issue with the smaller Eheim pumps.

I don't think you would have a problem where you located the pump in your case as the problem isn't interference with the CPU. The problem is when you have to run an AC cord near any data lines or magnetic media like hard drives. When you look at 60 cycle hum or interference on a scope it looks very similar to a medical condition called ventricular fibrilation (VF). You don't want VF and you don't want what it can do to your data.

 

[Vlad335]

Dont do that i have a water cool HTF x 3 triple rev stainless all the way around, and i can send you the hardware i used. One bad thing is you will have to drill out the holes on your 360 grill one size bigger so the hardware will work PICS http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=881561 Also the water cool rads let you use fans on both sides, AC does not.

The FS thread http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=900348
Heres the RAD at it trade http://www.it-trade.at/newshop/prod...d=412&osCsid=8d1dc51054e26a478a6500b09a7c0866

YGPM!

 

[R1ckCa1n]

You should talk to R1ckCa1n about that little "problem."

Easy there,,,,, you spent more than me!

 

[Top Nurse]

Attempted to mount my grill this afternoon. Lets just say it didn't go very well...

The Evo360 grill does not line up with my Asetek radiator. Whats perplexing is the screw holes not only don't fit in-line down the side, the grill is off slightly in width as well. To top it all! The holes are not completely out of line, Just enough so you can't drill and tap new ones!

Ok... I surrender. Call off the Stukas. Its time to buy an Airplex 360.

Before you go and get an Evo 360 sit back, have a beer, and think about this a bit. Others have done the same thing you are attempting to do.

What about taking a trip to the auto parts store and picking up some stuff called JB Weld. You mix it kind of like epoxy and press it in to the holes that don't line up and wait till it cures. You will want to prep the part first by taking some of the paint off with a Dremel rotary brush. It is then totally machinable

 

[Aviddigi]

Before you go and get an Evo 360 sit back, have a beer, and think about this a bit. Others have done the same thing you are attempting to do.

What about taking a trip to the auto parts store and picking up some stuff called JB Weld. You mix it kind of like epoxy and press it in to the holes that don't line up and wait till it cures. You will want to prep the part first by taking some of the paint off with a Dremel rotary brush. It is then totally machinable

I would not want to hear JB weld and aquacomputer in the same breath, but yes it can be done

 

[Top Nurse]

Good news: the problem with updating the Aquaeros is found. Now they are adjusting the software.
I guess at beginnig of the week there should be new files for updating.

That is like the 240Z....Totally awesome! So what was wrong? And thank you for the update Shoggy!

 

[Top Nurse]

I would not want to hear JB weld and aquacomputer in the same breath, but yes it can be done

A smart American fix for a silly German problem.

 

[Master Ninja]

Two questions, both fitting related:

- Can I use Plug&Cool connectors with anything other than Plug&Cool tubing? Seems kind of limiting...
- I love the look of compression fittings, and it seems that most of the parts I'm planning on allow them to be installed. But they only list one measurement, and from what I know of the fittings, both the ID and OD of the tube factor into whether they'll fit. How can I find out if I'm getting all of the right sizes?

 

[Top Nurse]

Easy there,,,,, you spent more than me!

Yeah but I ordered it! Not picking it up off the table because it looked like a good deal.

 

[Aviddigi]

Datsun 240Z if thats what your talking

You can use any tubing that is 5/16 O.D 1/4 I.D
I use mazzerpur tubing as it is like tygon and more clear than the AC plug and cool hose.

1/4" fittings are used for Aqua-Computer Airplex Evo series of radiators. 1/8" fittings are designed for everything else from the AC and Alphacool

 

[Top Nurse]

Two questions, both fitting related:

- Can I use Plug&Cool connectors with anything other than Plug&Cool tubing? Seems kind of limiting...
- I love the look of compression fittings, and it seems that most of the parts I'm planning on allow them to be installed. But they only list one measurement, and from what I know of the fittings, both the ID and OD of the tube factor into whether they'll fit. How can I find out if I'm getting all of the right sizes?

Well first you have to understand that the term "Plug & Cool" is a proprietary Trade name by Aqua Computer for a standard off the shelf fitting called a push-fit fitting. These fittings are made by many companies worldwide. Legris and Parker are the two biggest players in this type of fitting. If you go back a few pages in this thread you will find quite a bit of info on this subject with lots of links to various sites of interest. The A-C P&C tubing is 6mm ID x 8mm OD so you have to have a fitting that fits the OD because that is the part of the tubing that it seals on. Oh and yes you can most certainly use P&C tubing on any appropriate sized compression or barbed fitting.

 

[Top Nurse]

Hey guys how about helping me out on my FS thread? Need some bumps See my sig for the thread

 

[Top Nurse]

Datsun 240Z if thats what your talking

I use mazzerpur tubing as it is like tygon and more clear than the AC plug and cool

Uhh.. do you have some place I can buy this mazzerpur tubing?

 

[Aviddigi]

Uhh.. do you have some place I can buy this mazzerpur tubing?

There is a place here in san diego but they do not have a web site. Marshalls hardware off of miramar road.

 

[modsquad2]

Well first you have to understand that the term "Plug & Cool" is a proprietary Trade name by Aqua Computer for a standard off the shelf fitting called a push-fit fitting. These fittings are made by many companies worldwide. Legris and Parker are the two biggest players in this type of fitting. If you go back a few pages in this thread you will find quite a bit of info on this subject with lots of links to various sites of interest. The A-C P&C tubing is 6mm ID x 8mm OD so you have to have a fitting that fits the OD because that is the part of the tubing that it seals on. Oh and yes you can most certainly use P&C tubing on any appropriate sized compression or barbed fitting.

I remember reading somewhere that the G1/8" straight fittings with the "ribbed" barrel are made by Aqua-Computer. Notice they have a deeper barrel (about 5mm) that the Legris ones..

In theory that 5mm should give you a better (read: leak-free) connection.

 

[Top Nurse]

I remember reading somewhere that the G1/8" straight fittings with the "ribbed" barrel are made by Aqua-Computer. Notice they have a deeper barrel (about 5mm) that the Legris ones..

In theory that 5mm should give you a better (read: leak-free) connection.

Yes I had heard the same thing, but I sincerely doubt if they are making push-fits. They might be having them made by someone else or getting the blanks to machine their own possibly. That is not an easy part to make. I have taken them apart and I wasn't as impressed with them. The gripping collet is much chessier than the other fittings I have seen and the release buttons don't work as well IMHO. Actually if you look into the way they work on the Parker or Legris site you will see that doesn't have much bearing <no pun intended> on how well the tubing fits or seals.

However, I think the main reason they did the ribbed barrel was to give their stuff some bling.

 

[Vlad335]

Before you go and get an Evo 360 sit back, have a beer, and think about this a bit. Others have done the same thing you are attempting to do.

What about taking a trip to the auto parts store and picking up some stuff called JB Weld. You mix it kind of like epoxy and press it in to the holes that don't line up and wait till it cures. You will want to prep the part first by taking some of the paint off with a Dremel rotary brush. It is then totally machinable

Nevermind

 

[Top Nurse]

Please don't make fun of me.

Who's making fun? I always learned to measure 3 times and cut once. When your making one of a kind parts it pays to really mull things over before doing anything.

I think about every possible way to do something before doing it which is why I'm a lot slower than most.

BTW, why did you bold up the JB Weld? It's real stuff and works great!

 

[ShoNuff]

Dude. Why do you do this? Do you have no sympathy?

Taunt me no further!

II'm still going to use the LIon. That is the heart of the project. I've modified it such that it flows with the central color theme of the project.

If you really want to be taunted check this out. It gets better with each page. Link...

 

[Shoggy]

New OS loader, firmware and Aquasuite is ready.

The problem was (as mentioned before) the usb-controller of some mainboards in combination with specific usb-drivers. They got the PC of a customer to detect and solve the problem in detail.

At first: if you have already updated your Aquaero to OS 2.02 and firmware 4.05a the following text is unimportant to you! You are not able to flash the new OS 2.03 or firmware 4.05c and above! The only thing you can use is a new version of the Aquasuite.
You will have to wait for a new OS loader that will arrive at the end of this month.

(you may stop reading now)

For all others who want to update their Aquaero with firmware 3.xx:

The files
You have to download the following files:

&#8226; aquasuite BETA 4.31
&#8226; aquaero OS-Update 2.03
&#8226; Microsoft .NET Framework 1.1

Preparation of Aquaero
The new OS loader contains a new manual. Here is a short translation of all (and following) steps.

1.) Turn off your computer and remove the power cable.
2.) Remove all connected devices (sensors, fans, aquastream etc.) from you Aquaero. The only exception ist the power cable of course
(You can connect your aquastream directly to the PSU; no connection to aquaero at all!)
3.) If you are using the standby-power you will have to remove it too and make sure that the jumper is correctly set for normal power and not using standby.
4.) If you are using the 'aquaero power connect cable' you also have to remove it and connect your motherboard directly with the PSU.
5.) Connect the power cable of your computer and start it.

Preparation in Windows
1.) If you are using the tool 'SetAquaero Clock' deinstall it (it won't work anymore).
2.) If you are using jalcds make sure it will not start automatically at windows startup and is not running while updating your Aquaero.
3.) Install Microsofts .NET Framework 1.1 and restart your computer.
4.) Back in windows you install the Aquasuite.

Updating your Aquaero to OS 2.03 and firmware 4.07a
1.) Close all unnecessary programs (virus-scanner, messenger etc.)
2.) Start the 'aquaero os loader.exe' and select english (Sprache => english). Make sure that you have connection to your Aquaero. You can check this at the lower left corner.
3.) Click on the button 'flash firmware'
4.) Read all the bla bla and confirm it
5.) On your Aquaero you have to hold the set button for around two seconds to start the update.
6.) After updating shut down your computer, remove the power cable of the PSU and wait for 20 seconds before you plug it back. Start your computer.
(If you want to be 101% sure I recommend that you remove the power cable directly from your Aquaero and wait for a few seconds)
7.) While the pc is starting the Aquaero will load its new OS and is displaying 'load new OS'. If this procedure is finished the display will show 'neues OS geladen, bitte neu starten!' (maybe in english too, I don't know). When this message is comming up you have to shut down your computer again and remove the power cable for 20 seconds again (remember my tip; do it directly at your aquaero).
8.) Start your computer and in Windows you should wait some seconds because Windows should find a new device. Start the Aquasuite if everything is ready.
9.) Close all unnecessary programs (virus-scanner, messenger etc.)
10.) If your Aquaero is connected you will see a window called 'aquaero' below the menu.
11.) Select english (Sprache => english) and then go to aquaero and choose flash firmware.
12.) Select the file 'aquaero firmware 407a.afd4' and continue. Confirm bla bla again and press set button at your aquaero for around two seconds.
13.) After flashing you will have to shutdown your pc and remove the power cable (did you remember my tip? *g*). Plug back all sensors, fans, aquastream and whatever was connected to your Aquaero before.
14.) Did you wait the 20 seconds before pluging back the power cable? If not: do it! Start your computer and now a bit tricky thing: if your Aquaero is connected via standby you have to choose with up and down which function the relais should have and cofirm it with the set button. If the relais is connected to the ATX-break you also have to press the power-button of your computer once.
15.) Congratulations, your aquaero is ready for take off

-------

Little update on the software. The tool SetAquaeroClock and jaLCDs are available in a new version for series 4 firmware.

&#8226; SetAquaeroClock 1.1
&#8226; jaLCDs 3.2