QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll 27" 1440p $289 on Ebay Free Shipping

samduhman

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Is this still a hot deal? This thread started over a month ago and its starting to become a monitor recommendation/discussion on the monitor. Also the original link is no longer valid.

Maybe it should be moved to "Hot Discussions" or "Displays".
 

WaTaGuMp

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Is this still a hot deal? This thread started over a month ago and its starting to become a monitor recommendation/discussion on the monitor. Also the original link is no longer valid.

Maybe it should be moved to "Hot Discussions" or "Displays".

Thats a pretty valid point.
 

Justintoxicated

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Is this still a hot deal? This thread started over a month ago and its starting to become a monitor recommendation/discussion on the monitor. Also the original link is no longer valid.

Maybe it should be moved to "Hot Discussions" or "Displays".

The deals keep coming back and people keep posting new links. I guess we could start a new thread every 2 weeks if that would be better though.
 

StoleMyOwnCar

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The original post simply needs to be edited with the new links imo. ie this thread is fine if someone does upkeep on it.
 

Champ

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1 DEAD PIXEL little backbleed full glossy <3 this monitor so far

Dead Pixel fixer is running and it is barely noticeable. Haven't tried OCing yet. :D

Edit: 120HZ OC STABLE

So 1 small dead pixel unnoticed top rightmost corner + glossy + 120 HZ + 1440p = :)
 
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Sodapopjones

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I'm pretty sure this thread is more important than the actual Korean monitor thread in the display section, as it has actual up to date information within.
 

okashira

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Mine came in. It looks real glossy, how can I tell if there is glass? It has one dead pixel in top right, otherwise looks great. Backlight bleeding.... Non existint!! I was shocked how uniform it is. Also tested at 120hz success. There is some uneven ness and shimering when looking at a grey background at 120hz. Solid at 60hz. Not really noticeable gaming.
 

Sodapopjones

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Mine came in. It looks real glossy, how can I tell if there is glass? It has one dead pixel in top right, otherwise looks great. Backlight bleeding.... Non existint!! I was shocked how uniform it is. Also tested at 120hz success. There is some uneven ness and shimering when looking at a grey background at 120hz. Solid at 60hz. Not really noticeable gaming.

Knock on it, if it sounds like glass and doesn't leave an impression, there's a piece of glass on top.

Its usually easy to tell, non tempered you can see the gaps and push on the actual panel itself.
 

NCX

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Mine came in. It looks real glossy, how can I tell if there is glass? It has one dead pixel in top right, otherwise looks great. Back-light bleeding.... Non existent!! I was shocked how uniform it is. Also tested at 120hz success. There is some uneven ness and shimmering when looking at a grey background at 120hz. Solid at 60hz. Not really noticeable gaming.

Not my picture...the Overlord on the far right is glossy while the Qnix on the left uses Glass. Source.

My pictures: Left glass vs. right glossy displaying black. This is a slightly over exposed cellphone picture.

Left glass vs. semi-glossy NEC (same-ish coating as the matte PLS panels)

Coating Comparisons.
 

okashira

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Not my picture...the Overlord on the far right is glossy while the Qnix on the left uses Glass. Source.

My pictures: Left glass vs. right glossy displaying black. This is a slightly over exposed cellphone picture.

Left glass vs. semi-glossy NEC (same-ish coating as the matte PLS panels)

Coating Comparisons.

Thanks. I will post up some pictures of mine later.
Unfortunatly my video card is out of commission at the moment. The aftermarket cooler I bought doesnt have the square hole pattern for the GPU so I need to work out some mods.
I had to bring the monitor to a friends house to test it out.
 

NCX

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The Jupiter can't overclock (multi-input 1440p+ can't without dropping frames), the multi-input monitors have +/-20ms delays, and some lack proper brightness controls (Achievas. Crossovers are fine while no multi-input Yamaksi and Qnix's have been properly tested) so they have awful black levels. The Jupiter is matte btw (I asked).
 

okashira

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Got my video card up and running.

So I went to inspect on black screen.
No backlight bleeding..
But there are numerous stuck bright pixels. maybe not stuck, but they look like pixels... areas where u can see white little dots on a black background. like 25-30 total. some are brighter then the rest. There's a streak of them toward the center of the screen , looks like physical damage .....
 
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Jeffxsee

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I'm in the market for one of these. I'm so confused on which one to get. Do I get the QNIX, Yamasaki, or Crossover?
 

tenub

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Got my video card up and running.

So I went to inspect on black screen.
No backlight bleeding..
But there are numerous stuck bright pixels. maybe not stuck, but they look like pixels... areas where u can see white little dots on a black background. like 25-30 total. some are brighter then the rest. There's a streak of them toward the center of the screen , looks like physical damage .....

get a replacement for free asap
 

NCX

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Glass=grayish blacks+internal+vastly increased external reflections.
 

beowulf7

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So tempered glass is the worst, followed by matte, followed by glossy as the best? If reflection is an issue, then matte would be the best?

I wish [H] had a Wiki post like the way SD does so that everyone can aggregate their knowledge in a single post instead of them being spread out over hundreds of posts.
 

NCX

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So tempered glass is the worst, followed by matte, followed by glossy as the best? If reflection is an issue, then matte would be the best?

Tempered glass is garbage and gloss vs. semi-glossy (technically matte but the coating 1440p PLS use is nearly grainy free) is determined by personal preference. I compared most coatings under the same lighting conditions once calibrated here.

-----

My glossy X-Star from dream-seller arrived today, it is indeed glossy as well as PWM free (simple PWM test) and I think it is BLB free at the default (maximum) brightness. Either going to keep it or my PWM+glow free semi-glossy Qnix. My 560ti can't OC past 96hz with my current drivers from spring 2013...newer drivers [up to December 2013] make my PC freeze every few seconds after an hour of use and eventually crash. I have tons of homework (papers) to complete, won't risk trying 2014 drivers.
 
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texuspete00

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That sucks man, mine came today too but I missed the shipment.

Yeah mine came yesterday. I usually get things UPS. Not by choice, but just it is what it is. The FedEx site was much easier to pick either leave without signing (internet accept counts as "signing") or to leave it at the FedEx facility. UPS would have left a note for me to sign though. I had to check FedEx site to know they were there. Oh well, I'm going to watch my tracking and split to throw it inside when it comes. I don't know maybe this is common knowledge, but it's really just the last two monitors I'm getting where they have wanted signing. One monitor from each shipper now. This and the Zr30w I've been using about a month.

edit: It's here woot.. Just ran home to throw it inside when I got the notification. (x-Star matte). 6 days to get here once it shipped but that was like 8 days. Whatever.
 
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okashira

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That sucks man, mine came today too but I missed the shipment.

Please inspect yours in full brightness for the pixel defects like mine. There ate so many of them on mine, its almost hard to believe that they are no more common.

Dream seller said that there are no more glossy's so I brought up the idea of partial refund, given how expensive shipping is.

Does dream seller cover return shipping? (I asked him to comment on that...)
 

Sodapopjones

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Please inspect yours in full brightness for the pixel defects like mine. There ate so many of them on mine, its almost hard to believe that they are no more common.

Dream seller said that there are no more glossy's so I brought up the idea of partial refund, given how expensive shipping is.

Does dream seller cover return shipping? (I asked him to comment on that...)

On defective items, he pays return shipping. He will give you his Fedex account number, you will need to fill out a commercial invoice and the Fedex waybill/form deal. I'd recommend going to a Fedex location to do it. I would also make sure they keep the original documentation on the box with the new set, and when you fill out the commercial invoice write in the description "DP2710 returned for repairs" or something along those lines.
 

okashira

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On defective items, he pays return shipping. He will give you his Fedex account number, you will need to fill out a commercial invoice and the Fedex waybill/form deal. I'd recommend going to a Fedex location to do it. I would also make sure they keep the original documentation on the box with the new set, and when you fill out the commercial invoice write in the description "DP2710 returned for repairs" or something along those lines.

Thanks. If he does off a discount of sort, i will consider depending on the amount, otherwise... refund
 

Sodapopjones

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Thanks. If he does off a discount of sort, i will consider depending on the amount, otherwise... refund

No prob, it does look like some of those specs are what we like to call "Korean dust" and not dead pixels... It is possible to take the top layer off and get under it, I personally don't know if I would have the balls to do it lol.
 

Justintoxicated

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Got my X-star today, it was part of the new shipment. I was not able to find any dead pixels but there is a tiny tiny piece of dust between the LCD and coating or something that is the size of a pixel or two, it makes them slightly darker. I did have to put my head about 8 inches from the screen to really see it, mostly visible on an all white screen and located in a bottom corner. It was hard to find though, but there you have it not absolutely godly perfect! I'd take a picture but it would still be hard to really show, I'm being VERY critical here even mentioning it.

Screen is pretty amazing, but it's a big change from the 37" Legendary westinghouse I was using before. The westinghouse had much deeper blacks and I miss the larger font (it was easy on my eyes after coding on a 24" screen all day. Of course I haven't calibrated this one yet either, but I'm pretty sure the MVA non LED monitor is just going to have better blacks period.

Backlight bleed: nothing that I can see, but there might be something that a camera can pick up. If I turn all the lights out and set an all black screen, the left is a smidgen brighter than the right side I think but it is very hard to tell for certain., I guess that would be some bleed, but nothing like the horror pictures I see online. I mean we are talking super super picky. Actually I'm not even 100% that the left side is brighter, it could be an illusion. Again this is something 99.5% of the population wouldn't notice unless they are obsessive compulsive like me.

Matte Coating: I'm Happy with it, although I am curious what the glossy would look like. Compared to my other matte screens I can say I can see why some people say matte is slightly grainy (Because the other screens are, not the x-star though). I am very happy with the matte finish so far!

I was going to wait and get a second 1440p 120htz TN lightboost panel as a second screen for gaming on, but if these come back down to 279 I think I'm just going to get a second one and have a very very nice dual screen setup on the cheap.

The only negative I can really give it so far is the stand, but I knew that going in so it's not really a negative.

Now to figure out how to overclock it and see what the 290x can deliver.
 
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NCX

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Completed my glossy X-Star preset and calibration measurements, it is essentially the same as the glossy Qnix I tested, which is slightly worse than my matte Qnix in terms of color preset quality, but still excellent. The pixel response times (ghosting) are exactly the same as the glossy and matte Qnix. The X-Star and Monex's stand neck can be pulled out while the Qnix's and Crossover 2720MDP I've owned needed to be taken apart to remove the stand.

I'm 99% sure it is blb free (need to examine closely still), I have not been able to find any dead/stuck pixels issues and it has a 900:1 contrast ratio and glows normally vs. my glow free matte Qnix's 1100:1. The glossy Monex M27QSM I tested exhibited far less glow and the blacks were obviously deeper, even though they have similar contrast @100cdm/2. Samsung must be putting a superior glossy coating or polarizer on the glossy Monex's. It's to bad the Monex has a 175hz PWM frequency.

The future of PLS panels is far more exciting vs. IPS and AHVA since Samsung is making nearly glow free 27" 1440p glossy PLS and glow free matte PLS.
 
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Justintoxicated

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edit: So it maxed out at 105 on desktop without any artifacting. At 110 I get a line at the top of the screen. The difference is quite significant. Now I need to decide if 96Hz is good enough or if I really need to buy a 120 Hz display for gaming in addition to this one. I did have to turn some graphics down in BF4 to hold a steady 96Hz, but a second 290x might take care of that. The biggest problem I'm having other than unfortunately not being able to reach 120htz is that if I connect a second monitor up, all the smoothness I was getting in the desktop goes away and it appears to be back to acting like 60 Hz. Is that because my other monitor is only 60?
 
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