Do you have a picture? I need to make sure it is height adjustable enough that I can fit my Z5500 center speaker under it.
Dunno if this image from amazon helps or not.
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Do you have a picture? I need to make sure it is height adjustable enough that I can fit my Z5500 center speaker under it.
Dunno if this image from amazon helps or not.
I noticed there was signficant brightness uniformity issues when overclocked.. so I did an investigation. It only affects colors/greys, and it gets worse as the overclock is higher. There is a sweet spot between overclock and uniformity issues
I took a picture of a grey screen with a camera at 60Hz, 62Hz, 64Hz ... 126Hz, 128Hz, 130Hz. You can compare them here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ipxb5wq9dx40nfx/UvxYS0Rb1C
All pics were taken at the same locked exposure and fixed manual focus, but the camera is pretty old so no guarantee of perfect consistency.
Feel free to download and scroll through them
Another observation: Image retention occurs in the darker areas, not in the lighter areas.
Based on my results, I'll stick with 90-96Hz. I suspect other PLS overclock monitors will be similar.
Edit: this is my glossy x-star
Do you have a picture?
I just got the monitor that I bought from Storewithstory last week. My offer of $350 was accepted for one of their "ultimate perfect pixel" monitors (guaranteed 0 dead pixels). To me, it was worth the little bit extra to make sure I didn't have any bad pixels because they really bother me. A big bonus is the fact that my monitor doesn't have any noticeable bleed. It even came with the NA power cable instead of the crappy converter that some sellers send. I'd definitely recommend Storewithstory to anyone looking to buy one of the Korean monitors.
Congrats. But I thought multi-input monitors couldn't be OC'ed, yet that link you mentioned said it's OC'able to 120 Hz.My QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution ll DPmulti TRUE10 (Jesus, what a mouthful) was delivered yesterday. Great monitor, flawless. Not using it for gaming so I haven't tried beyond 60Hz nor have I measured input lag, but it's beautiful and for coding, web browsing and photo editing it's a big step up from my Dell U2211.
You and I have the same speaker (Logitech Z-5500). I measured the center speaker to be 5.25" tall. But in theory, the bottom of the monitor can be a little lower since the speaker (at least for me) won't be flush against the monitor, so the downward angle at the bottom of the monitor gives it a little more space.lol nope I could guestimate enough I saw a picture of it using this stand though. Maybe I should just get the monoprice stand since that one will fit for sure, although I don't like that the vertical adjustment requires an allen wrench....
That gateway stand on Amazon's site says it can accommodate 24" LCDs, but you've tested it with the Korean 27" LCDs.Yes, avoid.
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SE issues have already been discussed in this thread a few pages back.
This Gateway stand is amazing, I use one for my Qnix. Use [H]'s commission earning Amazon Link and search for "Gateway 8015480R," it costs 39.99$.
Just got my QX2710 in. So far I'm neither happy nor sad. Although it's certainly large, the blacks are nothing compared to my calibrated TN Acer G235H. Maybe it's the matte coating, but blacks in fact look entirely grey. I may be able to fix this via calibration... hopefully. Also, there are no dead pixels but one stuck green pixel. Running jscreenfix now; will try massaging if it doesn't fix it.
Just got my QX2710 in. So far I'm neither happy nor sad. Although it's certainly large, the blacks are nothing compared to my calibrated TN Acer G235H. Maybe it's the matte coating, but blacks in fact look entirely grey. I may be able to fix this via calibration... hopefully. Also, there are no dead pixels but one stuck green pixel. Running jscreenfix now; will try massaging if it doesn't fix it.
Just got my QX2710 in. So far I'm neither happy nor sad. Although it's certainly large, the blacks are nothing compared to my calibrated TN Acer G235H. Maybe it's the matte coating, but blacks in fact look entirely grey. I may be able to fix this via calibration... hopefully. Also, there are no dead pixels but one stuck green pixel. Running jscreenfix now; will try massaging if it doesn't fix it.
backlight bleed... i've never heard anyone refer to that as blacks being gray.
That gateway stand on Amazon's site says it can accommodate 24" LCDs, but you've tested it with the Korean 27" LCDs.![]()
Black color label is different from the monitor.
It is not back light bleeding.
As I see the photo, your monitor is perfect.
I think you ACER monitor use TN panel, that is not bright panel.
Qnix monitor panel is Samsung PLS panel.
Panel type is different.
Then, black color label is also different.
Your monitor is quite normal.
27" Slim Qnix QX2710 Evolution II LED PLS 2560x1440 QHD Monitor
Is this the correct model thats generally gotten to overclock? I dont remember seeing Slim listed in the title before. I just want to make sure this isnt some newer model that doesnt overclock as well or not at all.
I think I'm going to stick with my ZR30w. It was a recent upgrade, and my first ips or pls monitor. I had seen the suggestions for the 27", and went ahead with the Zr30w anyway. Then of course having gone against suggestion, and being new to the glow, it was irritating me. I bought the xstar matte, but between either the glow and some BLB, and missing size, it was definitely a downgrade I wanted to try and fix. Well, I broke it. Urgh. Really wish the monitor space wasn't so "pick your desired flaw." I guess the only thing I'll miss from the xstar was the OC to 96Hz.
I think I broke the xstar in the final phase of assembly. It would have been nice to have some more experience actually using it, to experience it's pros some more. When I put the metal frame back on there was still some significant gap on the bottom left (it's main trouble spot). So I pushed on the frame with it on top of the panel. I ended up with vertical lines in the aread and just general flashing colors. My mistake. I didn't have that much time to get used to the 96Hz (it wouldn't do 120 without artifacts). Oh well, going back to the 30", I really would have missed the size. Either way what I bought the xstar for was a no go. Blacks were "polluted" for lack of a better term. Whether glow or BLB, it doesnt really matter.
Most of us are getting this monitor for the 96htz otherwise there are better (although more expensive) options with less QC issues. But that 96 htz is phenomenal in games. Granted I have to turn the graphics down a bit in many games to get 96htz with my single 290x, the smoothness really does make a difference! 120Htz with lightboost would be even better if I had more GPU's but then my monitor would likely suck at everything except for gaming.
Most of us are getting this monitor for the 96htz otherwise there are better (although more expensive) options with less QC issues. But that 96 htz is phenomenal in games. Granted I have to turn the graphics down a bit in many games to get 96htz with my single 290x, the smoothness really does make a difference! 120Htz with lightboost would be even better if I had more GPU's but then my monitor would likely suck at everything except for gaming.
the problem is getting that "One" monitor that doesn't suck.![]()
I had decent luck going with dream-sellers pixel perfect. The monitor I received had a little blb on the top but besides that no issues. Oc'ed to 96hz no problem as well. Now if my system could push that fps. . .
This is my fun.
I got my second QX2710 after the first one developed vertical lines on half the screen. This time I got an ultimate perfect pixel from excellent castle, and I will admit that there are no dead pixels and damn near no backlight bleed that I can see from this monitor.
Unfortunately the monitor spontaneously shut off on its own after about five minutes. It turns out the DC jack is loose... now I have to pull up on the plug going in so it makes better contact. I took a picture to show this:
![]()
Anyone had this issue before? I emailed excellent castle to see if they can just send me a new input board since the DVI and power supply are probably on the same one. Anyone just replaced the DC input jack? I am good with soldering so I would be comfortable with doing the work. I'd rather not send this back to S. Korea.
Had my Qnix for a few months now. Have been pretty happy with it but in the past few weeks the glossy glass panel is delaminating at the top of the screen and getting progressively worse.
Had my Qnix for a few months now. Have been pretty happy with it but in the past few weeks the glossy glass panel is delaminating at the top of the screen and getting progressively worse.
Maybe you could just resolder the loose connection? I think those connectors are usually only 2 prongs power and ground. Or maybe it's the cable that is bad?
Don't know why you would want tempered glass to begin with![]()
Yeah, it ended up that there was a thin strip of metal that the prong mates with in the back that got loose. I ended up soldering to fix it but the monitor is now trashed due to the following:
I broke the LED back light power connector when I removed it from the LCD panel (I pulled out the whole connector instead of the small plug, which took an insignificant amount of force to do).
After I had taken the LCD panel apart to attempt a repair of the back light LED connector my cat jumped onto my work bench *onto* the panels and left paw prints all over them. I believe she wrecked the light diffuser as this panel only has edge light LEDs on the bottom.
And to make insult to injury I developed a bloody nose while I was trying to repair everything and got blood all over my pixel perfect LED display. This did not clean off.
So now I have $400 piece of fucking trash sitting in my basement, and since this was my third try with Korean monitors I'm saying a big FUCK THIS to the whole mess of cheap piece of shit A- grade trash and waiting for the 27" 1440p 120 Hz ROG to come out.
At least my Eizo FG2421 didn't sell yet so I still have a nice monitor to use. I just miss the 27" screen size and 1440p resolution.
I'm done. Back to your normal daily routines. If someone wants a DVI controller board I have one for sale.
Holy shit. Terrible story lol. Sorry man.Yeah, it ended up that there was a thin strip of metal that the prong mates with in the back that got loose. I ended up soldering to fix it but the monitor is now trashed due to the following:
I broke the LED back light power connector when I removed it from the LCD panel (I pulled out the whole connector instead of the small plug, which took an insignificant amount of force to do).
After I had taken the LCD panel apart to attempt a repair of the back light LED connector my cat jumped onto my work bench *onto* the panels and left paw prints all over them. I believe she wrecked the light diffuser as this panel only has edge light LEDs on the bottom.
And to make insult to injury I developed a bloody nose while I was trying to repair everything and got blood all over my pixel perfect LED display. This did not clean off.
So now I have $400 piece of fucking trash sitting in my basement, and since this was my third try with Korean monitors I'm saying a big FUCK THIS to the whole mess of cheap piece of shit A- grade trash and waiting for the 27" 1440p 120 Hz ROG to come out.
At least my Eizo FG2421 didn't sell yet so I still have a nice monitor to use. I just miss the 27" screen size and 1440p resolution.
I'm done. Back to your normal daily routines. If someone wants a DVI controller board I have one for sale.