Project: Stargate SG-1

[emorphien]

FYI emorphien and others, gclg2000's case is the Doom 3 one in the worklogs.

Ahh, I think i've heard of it. I just hoped he'd have a link to a thread/pics about it.

 

[flat4]

Ahh, I think i've heard of it. I just hoped he'd have a link to a thread/pics about it.

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=785831

 

[Sobek]

Update Time, Yeah!!!!:

I mentioned before that I got some better pics of the Naquada Reactor from Fri. nights episode, Avatar. I didn't notice at first but it appears that there is another version of the Naquada Reactor that was used in this episode. I guess the prop guys seem to get bored.

This "new" version is longer and lights up with white light. I never noticed before, but the other version lit up white as well. Here are the pics of both versions.

This one is the one I am modeling mine after since it is smaller. Notice in the second pic how the middle glows white when it is turned on. I never noticed this before. These were taken from Stargate Atlantis.

These shots were taken from Avatar. Notice how much longer the Reactor is compared to the other one. I'd like to make mine this long but I don't have the space. If I did I will have even more trouble finding a case for it to fit in. This version also doesn't have the grooves cut into the base like mine does.

If you look closely at the middle of the reactor (esp. the last 2 pics), you can see that it has a 4" or 6" white CCFL. I would love to be able to put a dual White CCFL into mine but so far I have been unable to find any white CCFL of this size. SVC, Newegg, and FrozenCPU don't carry them. I would appreciate any help in finding some (cheap of course).

I'd also like to be able to make the middle (where the long things extend out to the ball ends) light up white but this would be a lot more difficult. White EL wire or tape is a possibility though.

It isn't absolutely necessary to make the reactor glow white I just think it will make it look even more authentic. In the Avatar ep., the Reactor was glowing because it was about to overload whereas in the Atlantis episode, it glowed just from being turned on.
The things on top of the Reactor glow blue but I'm not going to worry about trying to do that.

I'm considering making my reactor have the sides open up where the hoses connect to the barbs. Notice in the 3rd pic where the hatch is.

 

[Sobek]

I had to go to Home Depot today to get a few more supplies.

Two new endcaps to replace the ones I fucked up, a 5/8 wood booring bit (I later found out it was too small), a new face mask, and some aluminum rods I didn't take pics of.

I finally got around to putting on the clear coat today. After a week of shitty weather it was finally sunny today. This first pic is the Mobo panel, USB port, and PSU backplate before I added clearcoat. I sanded with 1000 grit paper to get out all the rough spots and I am very pleased with the results.

Here are the PSU and USB parts. First pic is without flash, second pic with flash to show the detail.

Here are the drive cages after I added clearcoat. I forgot to take pics of the black parts after clearcoating. Sorry. I should mention that I started to use the 1000 grit paper on one of the cages to smooth out any small imperfections. This was a huge mistake especially since I am out of the gold paint and wasn't about to go back and get more today, muchless repaint and wait a few days to add clearcoat. The sanding made it look horrible. I was smart enough to do this to a side that would not be seen though so it wasn't a big deal. The gold paint is really glossy and didn't need sanding anyway. I just wasn't thinking.

Here is the case after I added the clearcoat. You can see my new $4 face mask and the Res as well.

I appologize if these pics aren't the greatest but the lighting is difficult to work with and I am trying to keep my camera clean while taking pics with dirty hands.

 

[flat4]

looks really good so far. lemme guess where did u get that fedex box? newegg maybe?

 

[Sobek]

I also did a little work on the Res today. I used those endcaps I fucked up to make sure the holes I was going to drill were the right size. They weren't. Once again I wasn't thinking properly and I baught the wrong size bit. The 5/8 bit was only big enough for the tube portion of the barb to go over. I went to Ace Hardware a mile from my house (rather than 5-10mi to HD) and spent $4 on a 13/16 bit.

First I drilled a guide hole for the 13/16 bit follwed by the hole for the barb. I went slow to minimize the chance of fucking up again. The battery in my cordless drill started to die so I was only able to get one hole drilled.

Here is one endcap with the barb in place.

There are a few tiny gaps that will need to be filled in if this thing is ever going to hold water. Any suggestions on the best thing to use (not bondo!). I was thinking maybe the PVC glue might seal it up and then use some hot glue or perhaps some other glue. Teflon tape is pretty much useless since the threads go almost all the way through to the inside. Let me know what you guys think I should use.

I marked the hole where the PVC will go through using a scap piece of pipe.
You can see my Sony Clie TG-50 PDA I've been using to show pics from the show for reference while I work. It's a lot easier than working at my computer or printing pics off.

The foam removed after some Dremel cuts. I used my hand hacksaw for cutting the rest out along with a round metal file. I forgot to take pics of the rest of the progress of removing the foam. Use your imagination for that part.

These two show one possible way I could make the Res. The endcaps fit the curve of the styrofoam ball almost perfectly.

If I make the Res as realistic as possible, this is how the endcaps will go (further back though so that the barbs are completely hidden inside the ball) and I would have the "lid" of styrofoam able to close over them when the hoses aren't connected.

These last two pics are with an endcap on the PVC pipe to show how the Res will connect to the balls. I'll have to Bondo them some more when the time comes.

 

[Sobek]

looks really good so far. lemme guess where did u get that fedex box? newegg maybe?

Yes but it's from Aug 2003!
It's from when I got my blue CCFL for my current PC and stuck the box in my closet cause I thought I might use the shipping peanuts when I moved. I forgot about it till I cleaned out my closet last month and it was in my garage wating to be thrown out with other boxes. I didn't want to use the same boxes I was painting on out of concern I may mess up the clearcoat.

 

[Sobek]

After some searching I found both 4" and 6" CCFL's at http://www.elwirecheap.com/index.html. I'm thinking of getting several of the tubes from here and get the inverters from SVC. The inverters from this site are in an Aluminum casing and I just don't feel like they are very good quality for some reason.

 

[Mad Machinist]

Try drilling the caps 3/4 inch and then threading with a pipe tap......looks like 1/2 pipe you are using.

 

[Sobek]

Try drilling the caps 3/4 inch and then threading with a pipe tap......looks like 1/2 pipe you are using.

What's a pipe tap? I'm not a machinist such as yourself so my tool expertise is limited.
The drill bit works fine for now. I just need a good way to seal it in there so that it doesn't leak.

 

[rogue_jedi]

i believe he's talking about a little thing that cuts threads into the sides of the hole you drilled so you can screw in a thread or screw or the like. i think you should recess the barb. it looks neater imo.

 

[cgrant26]

I think the easiest way to deal with this is to do what I did on my plexi reservior. The plexi was too thin and brittle to hold a threaded barb fitting on it's own so I used a flare nut. I also did the same thing on my first reservior, which I posted a pic of.
What I did was cover the threads and seating surface with plumbers goop, insert it into the plastic wall, apply more goop to the other side of the plastic wall and screwed on the flare nut. It works great, doesn't restrict flow, sealed the fitting and strengthened the spot.

 

[Mad Machinist]

Pipe tap is a tool for cutting threads........most any machine shop will have one....the cap you are using appears thich enough to tap threads into......hell if you'll pay shipping and the cost of a couple of caps.....I'll drill 'em and thread 'em for you.

Rudy

 

[CrimandEvil]

Pipe tap is a tool for cutting threads........most any machine shop will have one....the cap you are using appears thich enough to tap threads into......hell if you'll pay shipping and the cost of a couple of caps.....I'll drill 'em and thread 'em for you.

Rudy

Really? I'm designing my own waterblock and would need something like that later when I start on it.

Sorry for the thread crap Sobek.

 

[Sobek]

I mentioned before that I got some better pics of the Naquada Reactor from Fri. nights episode, Avatar. I didn't notice at first but it appears that there is another version of the Naquada Reactor that was used in this episode. I guess the prop guys seem to get bored.

This "new" version is longer and lights up with white light. I never noticed before, but the other version lit up white as well.

I was going through some episodes last night to get screencaps for design ideas, particualry for the heiroglyphic walls in the ships. That was when I noticed that I was wrong when I said there were two versions. Appearently, the ends of the Reactor slide out so that it is longer. I think I can make mine do the same. Here are 2 pics that show this and a larger pic of the reactor than my other ones.

Sorry for the thread crap Sobek.

<sarcasm> You get the hell out of my thread! <sarcasm>
It's no a problem. I don't really consider that thread crapping. If there are like 10 posts about him helping you out then it would be thread crapping.

Pipe tap is a tool for cutting threads........most any machine shop will have one....the cap you are using appears thich enough to tap threads into......hell if you'll pay shipping and the cost of a couple of caps.....I'll drill 'em and thread 'em for you.
Rudy

Thanks for the offer. I'm gonna see if I can seal the barbs on my own. They are pretty tightly screwed in and I think that once I get them glued in it should be fine. My neighbor may even have a pipe tap in his shop I can use.

I think the easiest way to deal with this is to do what I did on my plexi reservior. The plexi was too thin and brittle to hold a threaded barb fitting on it's own so I used a flare nut. I also did the same thing on my first reservior, which I posted a pic of.
What I did was cover the threads and seating surface with plumbers goop, insert it into the plastic wall, apply more goop to the other side of the plastic wall and screwed on the flare nut. It works great, doesn't restrict flow, sealed the fitting and strengthened the spot.

Thanks for the help. I'll stop by Ace Hardware to see if they have any fittings that will work. Otherwise I will have to go back to HD. I need to return some pipe fittings anyway that I didn't use that I forgot to return yesterday. I assume that Plumbers Goop acts like a glue as well as a sealant when it dries?

 

[CrimandEvil]

BTW what card are you using for TV? Those screen caps are pretty damn dark and little grainy (I use a Hauppauge 250MCE), I'm having a hard time making out some of the details.

 

[Sobek]

BTW what card are you using for TV? Those screen caps are pretty damn dark and little grainy (I use a Hauppauge 250MCE), I'm having a hard time making out some of the details.

Leadtec XP 2000 Deluxe. The 3 pics I just posted above your post I took from a HQ rip of the episode. The others like the 7 I posted last night were taken from the episode I recorded on my TV tuner. They're only 352x240 resolution and the episode was dark. They are a bit grainy as well but that's to be expected from a budget TV card. One day I'd like to get a HQ TV tuner and build my own HTPC around it. That will probably be the next PC I build in the next year or so.

 

[CrimandEvil]

That probably why, the first ones were actually pretty good.

 

[cgrant26]

I assume that Plumbers Goop acts like a glue as well as a sealant when it dries?

Yes. But the nice thing about Goop, if you decide to take it apart later, it won't be impossible to break the stuff loose unlike most other sealants/glues but it is still plenty strong.

 

[nontoxic]

not sure if you had decided on a solution for this, but from reading the thread i got the impression that you needed a way to spin the stargate. although it would take some time to do this, if you could notch out the back of the ring such that you could use a small gear to turn it you could probably get away with using some kind of lego or k'nex motor or something similar. it would take up only a little bit of space inside the case and the center of the ring would be left open.

 

[cgrant26]

not sure if you had decided on a solution for this, but from reading the thread i got the impression that you needed a way to spin the stargate. although it would take some time to do this, if you could notch out the back of the ring such that you could use a small gear to turn it you could probably get away with using some kind of lego or k'nex motor or something similar. it would take up only a little bit of space inside the case and the center of the ring would be left open.

Instead of using a gear, (too much work) use a rubber roller against a flat surface on the ring. You could get the roller and motor out of a tape deck.

 

[nontoxic]

Instead of using a gear, (too much work) use a rubber roller against a flat surface on the ring. You could get the roller and motor out of a tape deck.

^^^^an even better idea^^^^^ i knew mine would make for a lot of work but it was the first thing that i could think of

 

[Sobek]

Instead of using a gear, (too much work) use a rubber roller against a flat surface on the ring. You could get the roller and motor out of a tape deck.

I had actually been thinking of this since I still have an old walkman I took apart a few years ago after it broke. I found it recently while cleaning my closet and thought that I might be able to use the gears and parts for a casemod.

Small update w/o pics:

I added a second coat of clearcoat on Wednesday. I wish I hadn't used 1500 grit sandpaper on the gold parts because I think it messed it up a little. The black parts look great. I'm not really worried about the gold stuff though since most of it will be covered by the heiroglyphic panels.
I've been thinking of some great ideas for the actual heiroglyphs to use. I'm thinking of using the original passage that was in the movie where Daniel first translated the heiroglyphics of the Stargate. Other parts will have Stargate addresses, Goa'uld system lord emblems (including my name, Sobek), and other sysmbols I will throw in as hidden "Easter Eggs" I've been going through my Egyptian Book of the Dead (Papyrus of Ani) reading the translation along with the hyroglyphs to find any other cool little prayers or things I can add or modify slightly.

I got paid today so these are things I may order this weekend as well:

Dual White 12" CCFL (to show details)
Dual UV 12" CCFL (to make WC dye glow)
(these will be alternately turned on, never at same time)
Ton's of sleeving
2x 120mm fans for heatercore (if anyone can recommend some great silent ones for a decent price I would appreciate it.)
Dual White 6" CCFL (for Naq. Reactor Res)
Orange LED's (for Stargate)
White LED's (for interior lighting and misc things)
Blue LED's (for Naq ReactorRes and possibly for Atlantis Stargate)
Ton's of black sleeving from SVC
Water blocks, clearflex tubing and Pump*

I'm going with SVC for as much of this stuff as possble. The LED's I'll order from LSDiodes.com since they have great prices and the 6" CCFL's from Elwirecheap.com. White size LED's should I get?

*I still haven't decided what pump and waterblocks to get. This is one of the most important decisions I have to make. I need a pump that gives great head ( ) since the Res and HC will be external and possibly up to 2-3 ft (at most) from my PC. I'm considering the Via 1300 since it seems great and is less than $30.
I've almost decided on the Whitewater block for the CPU but am willing to reconsider and am stuck between the Maze 4 and the Swiftech block for my Radeon 9800np. I'll leave the NB alone for now but possibly add a block later on down the road.

I want to OC both my CPU and GPU as high as I can so the blocks and pump have to be great but not overly expensive as well. I'd like to spend no more than $150 for the block and pump total. Cheaper is better for me though. I'll probably repost this as one of those "help me choose" threads in the WC forum later but if anyone can help me choose now it will save me the trouble.

Sorry I don't have pics of the clearcoat progress posted. My Cable modem died Wed night before I had a chance to upload and post them. I just got it replaced todoay. I''ll just wait till I do more work on the mod this weekend or Monday and post them then. TIA for any WC or other help anyone can offer.

 

[CrimsonSky]

Wow just got finished browsing the thread--very ambitious mod you have going on--looks great so far, a big fan of custom resevoirs too. Plumber's epoxy on the inside of that endcap and around the threads will seal the barb just fine. Rough up the PVC a bit with sandpaper so it sticks even better. If you want to be 110% just mix up some marine epoxy (the liquid kind) and pour it into the res over the plumber's epoxy..will never leak. I think that stuff has a 500,000 year half-life.

 

[gclg2000]

looking great man...i can't say anything else but its shaping up just right.

 

[CrimandEvil]

Looking good there. I was watching the opening to Atlantis last night and then a mod idea came. I really wish I could get my hands on one of those Shuttle XPCs and mod it into a puddle jumper.

 

[cgrant26]

^^^^an even better idea^^^^^ i knew mine would make for a lot of work but it was the first thing that i could think of

Haha, ironically enough, when I was stationed in Germany (Army tank mechanic) my nick name was MacGuyver. Only instead of a swiss army knife, I weilded a leatherman and I DID always have a roll of duct tape in my car.
Theres like 4 mods I can't stop checking on every day now. (this one being one of them)

 

[Marklar]

Lovin the mod so far and I love the show, I though Id give you a heads up for some stuff for your case Ebay heres some SG-1 props thier kinda expensive but thier actual props so for a real fan thier well worth every penny. Also check out http://www.stargateprops.com they got some good stuff there I know I could spend alot of money there hehe

 

[Strikemaster]

Yeah, I know, "fear my l33t MSPaint skilz!"... , but it's all I have.

A suggestion for the moving ring, SG-1 style 'Gate.

First off, all the chevrons should be removable. They will be the symbol ring ("symbol track") retainers, so you can keep the inner and outer rails (your "inner" and "outer tracks") stationary and in guage in relation to each other. The symbol ring rides in a groove cut between the inner and outer rails.

To propel the ring, I'd fall back on the tried and true: a belt, riding the outer circumference of the symbol ring, driven by a slow RPM stepper motor. If you make it a full belt, you can drive the ring continuously in either direction (Maintenance mode in the series) and, with a little programming, actually stop on symbols and reverse, lighting LEDs under each chevron as you go. The "puddle effect", you're on your own!

Once again, excuse the scribbles on your drawing. At 12 o'clock, under the chevron and on the bottom of the groove, I'd put Teflon guide buttons to keep the ring from dragging. Down at 4 and 8 o'clock, two idler wheels keep the ring from rubbing due to the belt tension. At 6 o'clock would be the stepper motor, or a drive pulley with a relay belt running to the stepper motor positioned outside the viewing window. For the ring itself, I'd have it milled out of aluminum, and have a shallow recess cut in the outer circumference to hide the belt. That way, you can keep the groove dimensions very tight and not show the propulsion system. The rest can be cast resin, carved Bondo, whatever you think will hold up and keep the detailing.

You've got yourself one helluva project! I can't wait to see the finished item, and good luck to you.

 

[Sobek]

Just ordered some stuff from Xoxide including X-hour deals. Just thought I'd post this for now. I'll edit it in the morning and repond to the posts. I'm too tired and hungry to do it now. The PSU is for testing out LED's, fans, and CCFL's instead of removing the one from my PC and taking it out to the garage. I would never use such a POS in my PC.


Qty Item Name SubTotal

1 400W Novia PSU 6.00
2 120mm Aluminum Case Fan 25.98
30 UV Reactive 18 AWG Wire (Blue) 4.50
3 Black Steel Thumbscrews (10 pk) 4.47
1 Dual UV Cold Cathode Kit 6.99
1 Bawls (2 Bottles) 2.00
5 Caffeine Energy Mints 5.30
2 Spearmint Jolt Gum (12 Piece Pack) 1.90
5 Caffeine Energy Chocolate 1.30
5 Turbo Truffles - Chocolate Mint Madness 1.30
1 Techflex Wire Sleeving Kit (Black) 11.99

Subtotal: 71.73
Shipping: 8.04
Tax: 0.00
Total: 79.77

edit: got some other stuff at elwirecheap.com

QTY Item Name SubTotal

10 BLOWOUT SALE: Rocker and Molex 5.00
1 Dual 6inch White CCFL 12.50
1 Dual 12inch White CCFL 12.50
8 Lead Wire (By the foot) 2.00

Subtotal: 32.00
Shipping: 6.50
Total: 38.50

At only $.50 apiece, those Rocker switches with molex were too good to pass up. I was planning on getting some LED ones but that is something minor I can overlook. I'll probably use most of them anyway.

 

[Mad Machinist]

How about a plasma disk for the center of the stargate....not really a puddle...but it'd be sharp as hell..... http://www.coolstuffcheap.com/luminglass.html

 

[emorphien]

How about a plasma disk for the center of the stargate....dot really a puddle...but it'd be sharp as hell..... http://www.coolstuffcheap.com/luminglass.html

star trek SG1 lol

 

[Sobek]

How about a plasma disk for the center of the stargate....dot really a puddle...but it'd be sharp as hell..... http://www.coolstuffcheap.com/luminglass.html

I thought about that at first but I need to find one that fits, is blue, and most important...
Is cheap!

I'll respond to the other posts later, I'm off to watch Adult Swim and eat!

 

[Mad Machinist]

Hope i posted the right link....that one is blue....now cheap...depends on your definition

 

[Sobek]

Looking good there. I was watching the opening to Atlantis last night and then a mod idea came. I really wish I could get my hands on one of those Shuttle XPCs and mod it into a puddle jumper.

I've been thinking about how I might make a small PJ out of styrofoam or something for the Atlantis side of the case. I haven't decided for sure yet and will worry about it after I get al the other stuff done.

cgrant26, gclg2000, and CrimsonSky; thanks for the comments and advice.

Marklar, thanks for those links. I saved the pics since I can use them to see more details than I could get from screencaps and to get a few more ideas. If I had the money I would totally buy some of that stuff.

Strikemaster, thanks for the advice. I'll see what I can do. As I have said before, I will do what I can to make the Stargate fully movable and as detailed as possible. I am not going to start on it untill I am finished with everything else. This way all I have to do is remove the panels and cut them. I'll go ahead and wire up the orange LED's so that they will be ready whenever I start.

Mad Machinist, that disk is blue. I knew what you were talking about before I opened the link so I went ahead and posted first. I define cheap at around $20 for one of those. I have looked at Spencer's Gifts (B&M, not online) but they never have any blue ones or that are small. I'm not sure if I want anything in the middle of the gate since it would cover up even more of the inside where all the details are.

I woke up at noon today and was like "oh shit, I only have two hours to work on the mod before work!" Then I realized it was Monday and I was off.
I'm about to go to Wallmart and HD for supplies like plumbers goop, those barb thingies mentioned on the previous page, more gold paint, and clearcoat. Some of the things I'll try to work on today are:
finish clearcoating
work on heiroglyphic panels
make custom fan grill for rear 80mm fan
work on Res (waiting for 6" dual white CCFL before I can do much more on it though)

I also have to clean out both of my fish tanks so that will eat up about 2 hours of my time as well. I'll update with pics tonight assuming my internet doesn't die again.
I edited my post from last night as well so that it is easier to read.

 

[Regelos]

I've been watching this thread I hope there will be some updates soon its been pretty cool..

 

[Sobek]

I also have to clean out both of my fish tanks so that will eat up about 2 hours of my time as well. I'll update with pics tonight assuming my internet doesn't die again.

Sorry I didn't update with pics like I said I would. I've been very busy with work, looking for a new job, and for a few days last week I thought I was getting appendicitus but I wasn't and am fine.
Here are the pics from last week.

Here is the mobo tray, cages, USB, and PSU back plate almost done clearcoating.

I returned the PVC I didn't need and picked up some barbs, putty, and thread sealant at HD.

I finsihed clearcoating everything. Remember that most of the cages will be covered with the heiroglyphic panels so any spots or "fuckups" should be hidden really well.

Here is the completed Mobo tray both without and with my camera flash on.

I cut another piece of plexi for the Mobo tray side. I will paint it so that it matches the Atlantis theme. It will also hide wiring and the gold from being seen. Both peices of plexi are in place in these shots.

I screwed the barbs onto the inside of the endcaps and sealed with putty. There is no way for water to leak through this shit. It hardens in about 5 min and I put a lot of it on both sides just to make sure it was sealed. I also put some of the thread sealant on the inside of the barb thread before I screwed it on and it was fully tightened.

Here are some pics of my clean fish tanks that ate up about 3 hours of my time. I posted these just for amusement and in case anyone wanted to see them. I have a 6 gal and a 3 gal Eclipse Tanks. There are 2 Medium Bala Sharks and my huge Pleco in the 6 gal and a Tetra, African Dwarf Frog, Silver Scissor Tail, and some other fish in the 3 gal. Both have a ton of those tiny algae eating snails in them.
Yes those are Lego men in the 3 gal. One from my Space sets plus some decapitated heads and another I got at Toys R Us last summer from the Underwater collection. I baught most of the underwater sets since they were on clearance for around 75% off with the thought of putting them in a fish tank. Most were too big so only this one went in.

Today I spent about 90min removing the tape from the case and then retaping over the gold parts. Then I added the first layer of black paint. I started to work on the heiroglyphic panels but got hot and tired so I gave up for today.

I finally got an email from Xoxide saying that my stuff was shipped today. I've been waiting over a week but I guess something was backordered. It should get here around Thursday, Friday at the lastest. Once it gets here I will start on the Heater Core fan shroud. I'm still waiting for my 6" CCFL's from Elwirecheap.com to ship. I can't continue on the Res untill
then. In the meantime, I will try to continue as much as I can while working and looking for another job.

 

[jimowens]

I know you have this done already, but ANother good product to seal things like that reservoir is LPS Strong Steel Stick. We sell it at the welding supply company I work for. Ive used it for all kinds of stuff. It actually looks to be almost the same stuff you used.

heres a link to the mfg web site for future reference.

http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/AdditionalMRO/SSSRenew.asp


you can even machine it sand it paint it. and its very good stuff.

 

[Sobek]

I know you have this done already, but ANother good product to seal things like that reservoir is LPS Strong Steel Stick. We sell it at the welding supply company I work for. Ive used it for all kinds of stuff. It actually looks to be almost the same stuff you used.

heres a link to the mfg web site for future reference.

http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/AdditionalMRO/SSSRenew.asp


you can even machine it sand it paint it. and its very good stuff.

The stuff I used is almost the exact same as that stuff. You have to knead it by hand to get the two componds to join. It gets really warm and goes from a clay like consistancy to metal in just about an hour. It can be sanded and painted as well. I got it at Home Depot in the plumbing section for abut $2.00. Thanks anyway.

 

[cgrant26]

Haha, my first thought at seeing this pic was Stargate Atlantis.