Project: Stargate SG-1

[Sobek]

Update time. Went to Home Depot tonight. Spent $18 for some PVC pipe and pieces for the reservior.

Here is what I got:

Isn't my bedspread lovely!

10ft of 2" PVC pipe - $4.78
PVC Primer & Glue - $3.97
2- endcaps - $0.88 each
T-fitting - $1.97
threaded cap - $0.52 (cashier didn't charge me for the threaded fitting, they must've forgot)
2- 5/8"x 1/2" barbs - $1.94 each
Did I get the right size barbs? Someone let me know please.

Here's what it should look like when it is completed and the reactor pic again for reference. Gotta love my M$ Paint skills.

I've got to get some metal bowls to use as the round parts and to hide the top of the res. I'll start construction this weekend since I get paid Friday.

 

[rogue_jedi]

this looks like it is getting very interesting... definitely gonna watch this one. (still)

that pvc cement rocks, too. i used it to fix my pump still holding.

 

[Sobek]

Any tips Jedi for using the cement? I read the directions but they are kinda vague. I have about 7ft of pipe I didn't cut if I screw up. I only made those cuts as a test. Didn't even measure them.

 

[rogue_jedi]

umm... i think all i did was put the purple one on one piece, and the clear/brown (forget which color it is) on the other, then put them together and held it together for about a minute or two. worked out alright. i think that's pretty much what the instructions say, but the seal can be broken with a concerted effort (i think - that may have been the not-too-well done JB Weld i tried first tho) if need be.

good luck.

 

[Sobek]

Thanks. Did I get the correct sized barbs for 1/2" tubing?

 

[RobAGD]

Sobek -

A few things. Those round things are Vacuume cans from some cars. They are mold injected and by them selves would make good res for your cooling tanks. You could find them in salvage yards cheap.

As to cases for it - try here Case link

I just got my own lian-li case and so far love it. I am planing out my mod now, the first is wires, I hate them

An idea for your hyroglyphs is to have someone actually mill them into lexan then you paint them gold. Too keep cost down find a student that wants a project challenge

Hope this helped you out a bit.

-Robert

 

[rogue_jedi]

i think you got the right size. the 5/8x1/2 means it has 5/8" barb and a 1/2" thread. however, that'll give a better seal if you can stretch the 1/2" hose over the bigger barb. i'm using those same barbs on my waterblocks are you planning to drill/tap holes, or just glue them in? if you're gonna tap holes, i think you want to use an 11/16" drill bit. i can get you the tap size as well if you don't already have that (assuming i can find it... i hope i didn't lose it. that would suck... i'm borrowing it)

 

[Sobek]

Sobek -

A few things. Those round things are Vacuume cans from some cars. They are mold injected and by them selves would make good res for your cooling tanks. You could find them in salvage yards cheap.

As to cases for it - try here Case link

An idea for your hyroglyphs is to have someone actually mill them into lexan then you paint them gold. Too keep cost down find a student that wants a project challenge

I googled Vaccum Cans/Canisters and came up with very little. What I did find looked nothing like the sphere parts on the generator. I was going to get 4 metal mixing bowls at Walmart and attach them somehow.

Thanks for the case link. I'll check it out more later on. I may need one larger than those. I like the style of those though and that has been what I've been looking for.

For the hieroglyhics, I think I am going to do like Tailin did here:
http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=780322&page=1&pp=20
He put a thin layer of clay over his case and then put resin over it. I could put some clay over some precut plexi or sheet metal and then after I have all the details shaped out, coat it in resin.

jedi, I was planning on drilling the holes for the barbs and then just adding some glue to ensure they are tight. Thanks for the response and drill bit size.

 

[CrimandEvil]

I was just over at looking at Bit Tech looking at PilouX's HL2 case and saw this and thought it might give you some ideas.

 

[Sobek]

^^ That's pretty sweet. I really liked the other HL2 case PilouX was working on. I'm actually thinking about having a valve to turn off the flow so that I can remove the Res if I need to.

Time for another update:

I got paid today which means I have money to continue. Went to Wallmart and got some more supplies.

Big ass can of Bondo for $5, some primer, Black and Gold Spraypaint (tested it in Wallmart and it looks very close to the color I want), clearcoat, 220, 320, 400, 600, & 1000 grit sandpaper, cheap sandblock, and 1.5" painters tape.

I couldn't find the bowls I want at Wallmart or the $1 Store. I want to get some like these these I have in my kitchen:

One is 7" ID, the other is 8" ID. Either would work perfectly. I need 4 of them. If anyone knows where I may be able to find these, let me know. I can't continue on the Res untill I get them.

I just finished masking up the case. No time to resize and upload pics cause Stargate SG-1 and Atlantis start in a few minutes. Should I sand it before I use primer to make it adhere better it or just wipe it clean and then primer it? I'll be doing this in the morning.

 

[gigglebyte]

have you tried a local kitchen supply place? I know they are around and usually you can find stuff like that....maybe a bed bath and beyond would have them

 

[gigglebyte]

some searching did come up with THIS and something else you could use is PLASTIC bowls!! just use a little epoxy and they will stay together just fine

 

[Sobek]

some searching did come up with THIS and something else you could use is PLASTIC bowls!! just use a little epoxy and they will stay together just fine

I would rather use platic bowls but so far I haven't found any that look close enough to what I need. I'm also not willing to spend $8 a bowl for a mod. I'll keep looking though.

Update:

Primed the cages, Mobo tray, and case today. Sanded some afterward to apply a second coat but I ran out of primer. I figgured I'd need 2 cans but didn't buy them at the time. I'll have to go back to Wallmart and get some more. I'll pick up 2 more cans of paint while I'm at it since it is likely I'll run out of those as well.
I'll post some pics later on. Don't feel like it right now.

Last night after SG1 and Atlantis, I starting drawing up plans for the Stargate to go on the side panel. I'm thinking I could cut out the basic circles and then cover them with bondo. After the bondo dries, I could then carve out all the details, sand it and lastly paint and clearcoat it. Does this sound like it would work. I'd like a response from someone who has worked with bondo a lot.

 

[emorphien]

I would rather use platic bowls but so far I haven't found any that look close enough to what I need. I'm also not willing to spend $8 a bowl for a mod. I'll keep looking though.

Update:

Primed the cages, Mobo tray, and case today. Sanded some afterward to apply a second coat but I ran out of primer. I figgured I'd need 2 cans but didn't buy them at the time. I'll have to go back to Wallmart and get some more. I'll pick up 2 more cans of paint while I'm at it since it is likely I'll run out of those as well.
I'll post some pics later on. Don't feel like it right now.

Last night after SG1 and Atlantis, I starting drawing up plans for the Stargate to go on the side panel. I'm thinking I could cut out the basic circles and then cover them with bondo. After the bondo dries, I could then carve out all the details, sand it and lastly paint and clearcoat it. Does this sound like it would work. I'd like a response from someone who has worked with bondo a lot.

I presume these spheres are just going to be used to create the image of the reactor. Why not go to a craft store and get some bigass styrofoam balls, and then just coat them with a harder material (bondo, something. i dunno what).

maybe its a stupid question but I had to ask.

 

[Sobek]

I presume these spheres are just going to be used to create the image of the reactor. Why not go to a craft store and get some bigass styrofoam balls, and then just coat them with a harder material (bondo, something. i dunno what).

maybe its a stupid question but I had to ask.

That is a very good idea. I just fiqured bowls would be easy to get and work with. The Res has to fit inside though but I can cut out the inside of a foam ball. I'll have to look into getting some when I'm out buying supplies (heatercore from Autozone, more paint and primer) on Monday.

 

[Mad Machinist]

The vac canisters come on Volkswagen products.....I'll look in Alldata monday and see if I can identify some more common makes and models that have them. The blue/purple bottle is the primer/cleaner....goes on both parts........then put the cement on the inside of the fittings.

 

[emorphien]

That is a very good idea. I just fiqured bowls would be easy to get and work with. The Res has to fit inside though but I can cut out the inside of a foam ball. I'll have to look into getting some when I'm out buying supplies (heatercore from Autozone, more paint and primer) on Monday.

I'm sure they come in sizes up to 12" or bigger maybe. I've never shopped for them but i have seen them at treasure island before.

edit: i just googled it quicky for fun... 12" styrofoam balls seem to be easy enough to get. donno about bigger. They're not that cheap but they'd be easier to modifiy and rounder than using a bowl.

 

[Sobek]

I'm sure they come in sizes up to 12" or bigger maybe. I've never shopped for them but i have seen them at treasure island before.

edit: i just googled it quicky for fun... 12" styrofoam balls seem to be easy enough to get. donno about bigger. They're not that cheap but they'd be easier to modifiy and rounder than using a bowl.

Went to Michael's (craft store) and they had 12'' styrofoam spheres but they were $12 apiece. Went to Wallmart and in the craft section they had some 8'' half spheres for $4 apiece. Got 4 of them, some more spray paint and some other foam. Thanks for the idea.

Those DVD's were in the $5 bin but Stark Raving Mad was $15 and I didn't realise till I got home and looked at my reciept. I hate fuckers who don't put shit back where it goes and instead just toss things anywhere.
I threw the 8" metal bowl in there for reference. The spheres are the kind of foam that is like fine powder and comes off easily. I have use this stuff before so I took a scrap piece and sprayed some clearcoat on it. The clearcoat made it harder on the outside so it wouldn't come apart as easily. I think a little clearcoat sprayed on and then covered in Bondo will work fine.

 

[Sobek]

As promised here are some pics of the ongoing primer/painting of the case.

These two are of the case being taped up.

Here is the case after I lightly sanded w/ 220 grit wet/dry sandpaper:

Second layer of primer:

First layer of Primer on bottom of case:

I added a second coat of primer tonight and it looks a lot better. I can't see any shiny aluminum anywhere. I'll lightly sand and add the first layer of paint tomorrow afternoon on the drive cages since they are done with the primer.

 

[CrimandEvil]

I really can't wait to see how this turns out.

 

[omega-x]

how bout doing a circle window framed by a small *8-10"ish* gate ring too.
hehe

 

[Sobek]

(more updates at end of page 3 before this one were posted at same time)

I took a pic of what the Naquada Generator/Reservior will look kinda like.

After some long thinking and some more measuring I have decided that I am not going to go with making the Res look like this version of the Naquada Generator. There are several reasons:
1) Too fucking big
-Hard to find a case large enough to fit it in. It was going to be approx 35" long.
-May mess up my WC loop, limit flow, etc.
-Won't fit on my desk so it would have to be further away causing WC flow problems.

2) Doesn't fit my theme well enough.
-Not proportional (again too fucking big) to the size of the planned Stargate Side panel.
-Doesn't fit theme well. I'm planning to have the right (Mobo) panel have an Atlantis Stargate and style a the newer version of the NG is used on Atlantis.

The good news is that I can still use all the pipe and fittings I baught. I need to get some more peices though and will have to return those larger styrofaom balls I baught for some smaller ones.
I am still planning to have the switches in the Res case like in the first version though. I'm just blending the two ideas together.
I took a pic of what the Res will basically look like and v2 of the Naquada Generator once again for reference:

I'm planning to go by Auto Zone tomorrow and get the '77 Boneville Heatercore and Home Depot for more pipe fittings I need and lastly Wallmart again to return those large balls.

 

[emorphien]

I'm real curious to see how it turns out now that my suggestion has made its way in to the project.

or not. nevermind. lol

 

[Sobek]

Thanks again for the suggestion emorphien!

The other night I also began to start some sketches for the side panel. Here they are after printing a small detailed Stargate and then approximating the sizes of all the circles.

I thought about how I can make the inner track spin. I can use the mentioned suggestion of the small motor and have the power switch (and battery?) for it in a small Dial Home Device I can carve out of styrofoam.

 

[CrimandEvil]

Did you draw that by hand? That looks nice.

 

[Sobek]

how bout doing a circle window framed by a small *8-10"ish* gate ring too.
hehe

I'm going to do a huge window the size of the panel. The gate will be in the center as if it were freestanding. This also will allow anyone to see the other details inside the case. There wouldn't be much point in making the inside detailed if it couldn't be seen.
I'll put some other nice additions on the side panel as well. (still forming ideas and I don't want to give everything away)

The other side panel (as of now) will get an identical Atlantis Stargate and some matching themes.

I want to have orange LED's in 7 out of the 9 chevrons as if it were an activated Stargate. I'll prob just backlight the Atlantis Stargate with the Blue CCFL's from my current case.

 

[Sobek]

Did you draw that by hand? That looks nice.

It's amazing what you actually use from school math class, i.e. compass, protractor, #2 mechanical pencil.

 

[Sobek]

I thought that I'd mention that I get most of my pictures for the details either from screencaps of episodes I have taken/continue to take, Ed Giddings artwork (link on first page of log) and from Google searching.

If there are any pics you want me to post to show for reference that I haven't posted already, ask me and I'll post them.

 

[Tangent]

I thought about how I can make the inner track spin. I can use the mentioned suggestion of the small motor and have the power switch (and battery?) for it in a small Dial Home Device I can carve out of styrofoam.

How about modeling the gate itself after the Atlantis type gate? If you want to get really slick, use a grid of small LEDs for each symbol location and have them flash symbols in sequence as if it was dialing out at random intervals. It might be more complicated, but you'd avoid having to mess with any moving parts.

One of the things I've thought about for a long time is a custom active desktop that mimics the stargate control monitor, the one that shows the symbols as they are locked in place, shows the incoming GDO signal, or unscheduled offworld activation, etc... A desktop like that would be a perfect complement to the case your building.

 

[Morphes]

you could have the actual gate be your LCD with a cool moving background or sumthin, could be very cool

 

[Sobek]

How about modeling the gate itself after the Atlantis type gate? If you want to get really slick, use a grid of small LEDs for each symbol location and have them flash symbols in sequence as if it was dialing out at random intervals. It might be more complicated, but you'd avoid having to mess with any moving parts.

One of the things I've thought about for a long time is a custom active desktop that mimics the stargate control monitor, the one that shows the symbols as they are locked in place, shows the incoming GDO signal, or unscheduled offworld activation, etc... A desktop like that would be a perfect complement to the case your building.

I'm modeling the Atlantis Gate but it will be on the Mobo Side Panel. The other side panel will be a normal Stargate. I'd love to make it digital like the Atlantis get using small leds but it would be a major bitch for me to do since I have very little experiance working with LED's and wiring complicated things like that.

I have a few pics of the control monitor that I found on Google but I have no way to make them an active desktop. They are a shitty resolution as well. I'll think of something after I get all the mods done.

I just returned from 2 hours of supply gathering. I'll post more later on tonight. I'm about to go paint and start on the Res.

 

[Mad Machinist]

you might search for a surplus stepper motor.......use it to power the rings........that way you could spin in clocwise and counter clockwise like a combination lock.......too bad you aren't closer to me.......wouldnt be too big a deal to turn the rings out of aluminum.....and have one spin inside the other.

 

[Sobek]

you might search for a surplus stepper motor.......use it to power the rings........that way you could spin in clocwise and counter clockwise like a combination lock.......too bad you aren't closer to me.......wouldnt be too big a deal to turn the rings out of aluminum.....and have one spin inside the other.

I wish you were closer. It'd be nice to have someone do that for me. I'll look into the stepper motor thing later when it comes time to work on the panels.

 

[Sobek]

Major update:

Today after waking up around 1pm, I went out shopping for supplies for the Mod. My first stop was Home Depot. Here's what I got:

Rivot Gun - $20
100 1/8: rivots
1" 90* bend Aluminum
4" to 2" pipe fittings
other pipe fitting
Aluminum Ducting Tape

My next stop was Wallmart to return those 8" styrofoam balls.

I got some more primer (glad I did too)
Rust-Oleum Silver Metallic SP
4x 5" styrofoam balls (2 extra just in case I fuxor the others)
2 extra pieces of styrofoam I may need
Bondo spot putty
Extra tube of Bondo hardener
bunch of tiny zip ties (they were cheap and figgured I may need them)
3 automotive funnels

My last stop was at AutoZone.

Got my copper 1977 Pontiac Bonneville Heater Core (w/ A/C vers) for $19.25 incl tax. Woot! Take that Danger Den for your overpriced radiator's.

Now let me tell you what everything is for.
The 1" Aluminum rod, rivot gun, and Aluminum Ducting Tape are for making the fan shroud for the Heater Core.
The styrofoam balls, primer/paint, and Bondo are for the Res.
The pipe fittings are for the base and curved parts of the Res. They were about $5 each though. I saw the blue funnels at Wallmart for less than $1 each and figured I would try to use them instead and could return 2 of the pipe fittings.

 

[Sobek]

Case Updates:

Here is a quick pic I took to show how much smaller (and better) this version of the Res. will look in proporting to the case.

As soon as I returned home from shopping, I light sanded the primed pieces.
I added the last of the 2nd can of primer to the case. Then I started the first coat of Metallic Gold on the drive cages. Remember that this is supposed to match the Gold walls found on the inside of Goa'uld ships. This Gold paint looks awesome. These pics do not do it justice and this is only the first coat. I'll add at least one, maybe two more light coats of paint.

I also started painting the Motherboard Tray, front USB slot holder and rear PSU Cover. This black paint isn't that great but it does well enough. I think after sanding, more light coats and clearcoat it will look great. Here is a pic of the Mobo tray after the first coat of paint.

 

[Sobek]

I spent 4 hours working on the base for the Res tonight.
First thing I had to do was cut the 2" connection lip off off. I went slow and kept rotating the base to keep from having an uneven cut like I have been getting when using the hacksaw on the test peices of 2" PVC pipe. The result was an even cut.

The next step was to remove part of the base so that the T-Fitting would fit in. I made some markings with a Sharpie and began by making a straight cut along the inner opening with my Dremel. I used the standard cuttoff disk (#409 IIRC) (I used the same disk the entire time, it's still usable!) to make the cuts. It literally cuts "like a hot knife through butter" through the PVC.

I became amused watching the PVC melt and curl up and then fly towards my eyes. Stupid plastic can't penetrate my Safety Goggles and Mask. Use a mask when cutting PVC. You do not want fine plastic dust in your lungs especially when you start using a sanding disk. I did all these cuts on the floor of my room cause it was hotter than two rats fucking in a wool sock outside and I wanted to watch TV at the same time. I had my Vacume Cleaner nearby as well. Here is a test fitting after the cuts and sanding.

Testing to make sure it is level.

It's coming together nicely. The screenshots in the background were there for my reference.

The base still needed some more cutting done. Looking closely at screenshots I've taken, I noted that the bottom of the base is jagged like this: |_|-|_|-|_|.
I started by putting painter's tape around the base level with the bottom. I then measured half an inch up and placed normal masking tape along this edge to know where to stop.

I began by using a ruler to mark out where I wanted the cuts. I then used the hacksaw to begin the cuts. I switched over to my mini hacksaw since it was faster and easier.

I then used the Dremel to cut along the edge of the tape to remove the pieces for the cutouts. This was really easy.
I never went above level 8 on my 35,00 RPM Dremel during any cuts of the PVC.

Final pic of the completed base (except gluing). You can see the cuts in the base on the actual Naquada Reactor just above the threaded cap on the monitor in this pic.

edit: After looking closer at the pics in the background, I may go back and shorten the length of the base. It looks taller than it should. This shouldn't take very long to do. I just have to extend the hacksaw and Dremel cuts and then cut someof the bottom off.

Once again making sure it is level. (close enough anyway)

I'll be working (job, not the mod) a lot the next few days and will try to work on the mod as much as I can. I am going to give the paint 2-3 days to cure between layers so it will take some time. Meanwhile, I will work primarily on the Res, details for inside the case, and maybe the side panels.

 

[rogue_jedi]

damn... that is really starting to come together. getting the little details into it is going to be 'fun', though. good luck!

wrt the rotating rings, you could probably find someone at a machine shop or the local college (if you have one) who could at least give you some advice or do it for you for free/cheap. shouldn't be too hard to find someone with a bit of searching.

 

[CrimandEvil]

Starting to look really cool.
While your at Walmart you might want to stop over at the automotive section and checkout the swtiched that they have.
I found these there to my suprise for the same price.

 

[Sobek]

Starting to look really cool.
While your at Walmart you might want to stop over at the automotive section and checkout the swtiched that they have.
I found these there to my suprise for the same price.

I noticed those the other day when I was in there as well. I looked through all the stuff for ideas in the Automotive section. I also just saw your suggestion for them in the Aphex log. They are the same price at SVC IIRC. I want to use the red LED ones for the control panel in the Resevoir case. I'll hold off on getting them till I'm ready to start working on that portion of the project. Thanks anyway CrimandEvil.

 

[Sobek]

I just sprayed some clearcoat on 2 of the styrofoam balls to make them hard on the outside so that the bondo will stick better. I was afraid the clearcoat might eat through the styrofoam since I've seen it happen before. It didn't though so all is good.

I also turned the drive cages over and painted the bottoms gold. I'll let them cure for the next 2 days before I add another coat. I added the last bit of primer to the case. I have to sand it later tonight or tomorrow and then tape it up some more. Some parts of it are going to be gold, other parts such as the bottom, front, and back are going to be black. I have to paint the gold first since it is easier to cover gold with black.