Post your "Ghetto Mod" pics

  • Thread starter Deleted member 96510
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Boy do I have a surprise for you all... those of you who know me on here, know my tendency to do odd things to odd things, like modding a trash can and such. But today, I pulled out all the stops. I modded... a Chinese eBay LED Watch :eek:

Our story begins about a year ago, when I fell over a site called LED Watch Stop which sells LED Watches to people who have $100-$200 to waste on such things. I watch that place pretty carefully and there's just nothing for the rest of us.

So the lightbulb goes off over my head one day, about two weeks ago. "You DUMB***! Go to eBay!" A slap to the forehead and two ibuprofen later, I find THE MOST PERFECT LED WATCH DESIGN EVAR for $8.77. I didn't have that much in my Paypal, but I had a $10 in my wallet and I happened to be visiting my father that day, so I handed over the tenner for the privilege of him ordering for me.

It got here about a week later, arriving in a bubble mailer with a poorly designed flyer and a Ziploc-style baggie as extra padding. No instructions :mad: After another week of emails in bad English, I got my "indtructions" (their repeated spelling) and instructions for the instructions -- they refer to S1 and S2 as buttons in their instructions, yet they do not specify which of the four buttons are S1 and S2 !! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

So 48 hours or so later, I take the watch off to go to bed, and the spring bar holding one side of the strap on... fails. So now I can't wear it. Great. Three days of emails later, they say that they'll let me keep the broken one (whoopeedo) and they'll send me a new one, all costs on them (including postage).

Got it this evening, coming back from another visit with my father. It broke within seconds of me putting it on -- this model seems to have real trouble with spring bars. Now I get mad ;) especially after I break the other two pair of spring bars trying to make it work right again :mad: :mad: :mad:

Lightbulb time again... "I know how I can fix this so that it'll NEVER fall apart again!" Next thing you know, I'm out on the front porch with the watch wrapped in masking tape, picking up a nice friend of mine by the name of Rockwell the Grey.

Rockwell is the closest thing I'll ever get to a raygun. He's great at poking holes in things. I've never had him stall out on me, and he's quite precise (except for my first time feeding him a spade bit). Yep, Rockwell is my drill.

Here's the victim in pre-op masking tape garb --


Meanwhile, in an effort to make the band a little bit more amicable to working with me, I had introduced it (really them, as it's two pieces that buckle together like a belt) to my friend the "exacto" knife. It's fairly exact, but how much so depends on who's holding it. All of my dexterity rolls came out in my favor, so I didn't get a knife in my hand today :D

Pix of the aftermath of knifing the band (wow, that sounds a lot more deadly than it was) --


Then I found some silvered copper wire, and used it appropriately ;) Won't last forever, but then again, neither will the watch! Especially since it's made of the same material, silvered copper... some of the finish came off through the masking tape. Next time I'll use vinyl electrical tape. Pix of the finished product --


By the way... to set the time on this thing...

(1) Hold the watch, face up, so that the words "LED WATCH" at the bottom are right side up.
(2) Press the upper-right button.
(3) Press and hold the lower-right button until the hour blinks.
(4) Press the upper-right button repeatedly until the hour display is where you want it.
(5) Press the lower-right button to set minutes.
(6) Repeat (4).
(7) Repeat (5) and (4) (in that order) to set the month, day, and year.
(8) Press the lower-right button one last time to lock.

What the buttons do:
BOTH left buttons are the same. They display "88:88" until you release them, at which point the time is displayed.
The upper-right button displays (1st) HH:MM, (2nd) MO:DY, (3rd) :SS
The lower-right button is disabled unless the time is being displayed via the upper-right button, at which point it can be used to set the time if you hold it down long enough (~1-2sec).

So there you have it. That's all I'm gonna write, folks.
 
...and here's an update to my uberfail mod, Paper Tiger. (See earlier in this very thread for the original post on this system.)

Tried to cut it on the other day, only to find out that the on-mobo video had gone PTHBBBBBBBB. The CD drive blinked, and although I didn't hear a POST *beep* sound from the speaker, I didn't see the screen doing anything... so I figured it must be the video. What luck. Some very significant clearance and structural support issues precluded adding a discrete video card -- not to mention the significant effect that even five dollars or so would have on my discretionary funding for the month -- so I made a hard decision.

I replaced the motherboard with a spare... which actually wound up solving another problem I was having with a different mod, but that one's not done yet -- so it's a story for another day ;)

I pulled apart another pile-o-crap computer, a Gateway of unknown model and history that earned the nickname "Igor" when I wound up "repairing" it... by replacing freaking everything other than case and PSU :eek: ya'll don't know how many expletives I wore out on that system.

I was too lazy to bother with moving over the CPU as well (they're both Athlons; the old one runs at 1150 MHz, and the new one's "only" 900 MHz) so that was a slight downgrade, but I really don't care. However, I did upgrade the RAM (mostly since I couldn't find the original sticks!) I also put on a new OS at the time -- Wary Puppy 511, one of the newest in the Puppy Linux family. This hunk of scrap runs faster than ever as a result :D

Today I decided to fix two other problems. I never really liked the original front panel, as it actually looked too crappy for the system somehow! I also had noticed the power supply running hot while I was putting the OS on. Like, really hot. Like, why is this fan on a computer power supply when what's coming out of it feels like jet fighter exhaust? Not good.

So today, I cut away some (about half) of the cardboard that was essentially enclosing the PSU. I also made a new (slightly nicer) front panel.

New specs:
Allied (came with an Apex case) 300W PSU
Unlabeled Socket A/462 MicroATX Motherboard (see below)
900 MHz Athlon XP (I think it's supposed to be an 1800+...)
ThermalTake Volcano 5 HSF
1GB PC133 SDRAM (2x512, mixed brands)
80GB HDD in a 3.5"-->5.25" bay adapter
CD-R/RW/DVD-ROM Combo Drive (I think it came from a Dell)
Floppy Drive (I think it came out of a POS 486 that I got for free)

About the motherboard... I originally got it, with a second identical board and some other stuff that I don't remember, off of a fellow [H]'er for a steal, because both boards had busted caps. This was about five or six years ago. Both boards came with Athlon XP 1800+ CPUs, one of which is still working (the other one was busted). If the original seller would contact me, I'd like to hear from them again. Whoever you are, I've long forgotten your name (sorry!) but I remember your kindness, and I would like to thank you for it. PM me if you're still around and you see this.

Now for a picture of the (slight) modifications:


That's all for now, although I'll keep ya'll posted if I make any more changes.
 
...and here's an update to my uberfail mod, Paper Tiger. (See earlier in this very thread for the original post on this system.)

Tried to cut it on the other day, only to find out that the on-mobo video had gone PTHBBBBBBBB. The CD drive blinked, and although I didn't hear a POST *beep* sound from the speaker, I didn't see the screen doing anything... so I figured it must be the video. What luck. Some very significant clearance and structural support issues precluded adding a discrete video card -- not to mention the significant effect that even five dollars or so would have on my discretionary funding for the month -- so I made a hard decision.

I replaced the motherboard with a spare... which actually wound up solving another problem I was having with a different mod, but that one's not done yet -- so it's a story for another day ;)

I pulled apart another pile-o-crap computer, a Gateway of unknown model and history that earned the nickname "Igor" when I wound up "repairing" it... by replacing freaking everything other than case and PSU :eek: ya'll don't know how many expletives I wore out on that system.

I was too lazy to bother with moving over the CPU as well (they're both Athlons; the old one runs at 1150 MHz, and the new one's "only" 900 MHz) so that was a slight downgrade, but I really don't care. However, I did upgrade the RAM (mostly since I couldn't find the original sticks!) I also put on a new OS at the time -- Wary Puppy 511, one of the newest in the Puppy Linux family. This hunk of scrap runs faster than ever as a result :D

Today I decided to fix two other problems. I never really liked the original front panel, as it actually looked too crappy for the system somehow! I also had noticed the power supply running hot while I was putting the OS on. Like, really hot. Like, why is this fan on a computer power supply when what's coming out of it feels like jet fighter exhaust? Not good.

So today, I cut away some (about half) of the cardboard that was essentially enclosing the PSU. I also made a new (slightly nicer) front panel.

New specs:
Allied (came with an Apex case) 300W PSU
Unlabeled Socket A/462 MicroATX Motherboard (see below)
900 MHz Athlon XP (I think it's supposed to be an 1800+...)
ThermalTake Volcano 5 HSF
1GB PC133 SDRAM (2x512, mixed brands)
80GB HDD in a 3.5"-->5.25" bay adapter
CD-R/RW/DVD-ROM Combo Drive (I think it came from a Dell)
Floppy Drive (I think it came out of a POS 486 that I got for free)

About the motherboard... I originally got it, with a second identical board and some other stuff that I don't remember, off of a fellow [H]'er for a steal, because both boards had busted caps. This was about five or six years ago. Both boards came with Athlon XP 1800+ CPUs, one of which is still working (the other one was busted). If the original seller would contact me, I'd like to hear from them again. Whoever you are, I've long forgotten your name (sorry!) but I remember your kindness, and I would like to thank you for it. PM me if you're still around and you see this.

Now for a picture of the (slight) modifications:


That's all for now, although I'll keep ya'll posted if I make any more changes.

Thermaltake level 0.2?:D
 
Ha. More like ThermalTake Level 0.01 ;)

EDIT: the cabling job is an absolute disaster. Think I should post in the "rate my cables" thread just for sh*ts & giggles?

EDIT 2: Alas, the poor old power supply is on its way to the dump. I'm getting mondo system instability after replacing the CPU with the earlier, more powerful one (which was never this finicky before). I think the PSU is a little underpowered for this system. My two choices right now are (a) repair an Antec Truepower II 430 PSU (which I would prefer) or find a new one -- but I can't really afford a new one unless someone wants to send it to me for cost of shipping (yeah right).
 
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I used zip ties.... :'(

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Didn't feel like going to the store a getting a wall mount for my 24" for my other desk. So I made one :p

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Didn't feel like going to the store a getting a wall mount for my 24" for my other desk. So I made one :p

Lol the only thing that would have made it more ghetto is if the poster was holding it up..


(Bart Simpsons Load Bearing Poster)
 
Not the most ghetto mod out there but after having installed my Accelero Twin Turbo onto my 5850 and finding out the fans were no longer functional, I decided to slap on 2 120mm fans. Zip ties are like the duct tape of the computer world.

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Damn, my fans are dead on my Twin Turbo as well. Never buying an Arctic Cooling product again.
 
I did this back in 2007. My friend needed a video card to play Counter Strike: Source and all I had was an mx400...and stock cooler off an AMD X2 4200+ :D

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Not exactly a case mod, but figured I'd post it here:

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I used silicone caulk to glue that, so I have no idea how well that will last, but we'll see. I wired it internally so the fan goes on when I turn the unit on. I put it on 5v as 12v was kinda overkill. Just need enough air blowing on the drive to cool it off. So far so good. I found the Hitachi drives got very hot when in there overnight.
 
Here's what you do when you have a Barton 2600+ and no heatsink good enough for it -- and your local tech shop, wizards though they be, have nothing old enough to help out (and, to top it all off, your paypal is on "E" at the moment)...



[skywalker] WHAT A PIECE OF JUNK!! [/skywalker]

It is the heatsink and fan mount (but not fan) from an old Thermaltake Volcano 5 cooler (Socket 462/A) mounted to the most powerful fan in my house (I think -- it's a 92mm red LED fan from FrozenCPU, Galaxy brand). The white plastic is from one of those nice-looking binders you get at Staples. It's about 1/16" thick. I drilled it and then cut it up. I used sheet metal screws to attach it to the heatsink, and stove bolts and nuts to attach the fan. The fan grille is the "blade" style, also from FrozenCPU.

I haven't tested it yet, since I got sweat all over the bottom of the heatsink, and I'm all out of coffee filters to use with ArctiClean... but if I actually test it, it will have Arctic Silver Ceramique between it and the CPU.

In related news, does anyone have a Socket 462/A cooler that they actually /trust/ to work on an Athlon XP 2600+ and will let go for cost of shipping?
 
Slight update... remembered I had a Thermaltake HSF for socket 1366 with even more CFM... unfortunately TT was a dick with the fan and made the holes for the 92mm fan at the 80mm size. AARGH!!

Hence the second adapter... here's the pic:

 
i'll dig around to see if my old socket A HS is still around, but no promises as I haven't seen it in years :)
 
I made a stock i5-2500k heatsink fit onto a Core2Quad motherboard by bending the shit out of a few fins. Also made a p8 motherboard connector by taking an old p4 connector, turning it 90* counter clockwise, soldering an old female molex onto it, and doing some trimming.
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i found 4 stock heatsinks for AMD processors, but dont remember what socket they are... >.< been storing them for years and they have no labels... lol :D
 
ghetto gfx card repair.
it has some other error as well,so i might try baking it as well.
but the new caps work well.

brlm35qv0h23fhwtp.jpg

Haha, that reminds me... I blew a cap in my Swans speakers and replaced it with the largest capacitor I could find in the lab. Maybe I'll take pics and post it here.
 
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Stupid frisbee/ufo router that my room mate had when I moved in the other day is the suck, so I have to rig up this fan till we can get a wrt54g. I'd use mine, but, it's currently my wireless bridge down stairs. At least the internet cuts out every few hours now instead of every 20 minutes.

So, old PSU, shorted on, hooked to spare 120mm fan. I don't care if it blows up, or what ever, I use it for this kind of stuff only.
 
I got the oil from ENZoil, a place which deals with transformer oil near where i live (Wellington, NZ). Its effectively recycled transformer oil... Which means its cheap! :D ($70NZD/20L)

I haven't tried stress testing it, etc, as the heatsink is poorly attached, and the plastic bin is cheap, so I'd run the risk of it melting and flooding the house with hot oil if i tried to get it too hot.
I've been lazy with measurements, but the temperature has gotten over 60C before. I've heard that with a more suitable case, its safe to get the oil over 90C in systems like this, as the setup eliminates hot spots.
I've been meaning to design and build a custom acrylic case for it (With a few metal sides, etc to get the heat out somehow), but, as a student, i have neither the time nor money, and it works as it is, so.
 
you might also look into adding something like a powerhead to circulate the oil (depending on its thickness) and aerate it some. <not based on any fact or experience, but if it works for fish tanks...I'd assume it works here too. lol
 
I got the oil from ENZoil, a place which deals with transformer oil near where i live (Wellington, NZ). Its effectively recycled transformer oil... Which means its cheap! :D ($70NZD/20L)

I haven't tried stress testing it, etc, as the heatsink is poorly attached, and the plastic bin is cheap, so I'd run the risk of it melting and flooding the house with hot oil if i tried to get it too hot.
I've been lazy with measurements, but the temperature has gotten over 60C before. I've heard that with a more suitable case, its safe to get the oil over 90C in systems like this, as the setup eliminates hot spots.
I've been meaning to design and build a custom acrylic case for it (With a few metal sides, etc to get the heat out somehow), but, as a student, i have neither the time nor money, and it works as it is, so.

Thanks a lot...
This is very interesting...
I'm doing some research to see what kind of oil to buy, and how much money I would need to invest in something similar :) Very cool..
 
as previously mentioned, use an aerator to drop temps by a good bit. Also you can throw in a submersible pump and add a radiator too.
 
you might also look into adding something like a powerhead to circulate the oil (depending on its thickness) and aerate it some. <not based on any fact or experience, but if it works for fish tanks...I'd assume it works here too. lol

Turns out I don't really need to. Ever seen a deep fryer warm up? I get the same rather impressive looking convection currents off the heatsink, and checking with a thermometer shows all the areas are pretty close in temperature, so the oil is well circulated.

As for the aerator, well, ideally I'd have the case sealed off so oil vapors stop stinking up my room. And to stop the other 'vapors' stinking up my room from getting into the pc :D

As for radiator, etc, again, I'd like to build a custom case with at least one of the sides make out of metal, and effectively have a massive on the case. Since the oil submersion prevents hotspots, the pc can withstand higher temperatures, and the convection effect will be greater, so I might be able to be able to get away with just relying on that., keep in mind, the goal of this is for it to be noiseless.

At any rate, when i get the time to visit a mate of mine who lives out in the wops, I'll be upgrading the system to an i5 setup pulled out of a smashed up laptop... So I'll have no need for extra cooling any time soon
 
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