New Samsung 4k for everyone.

[Zarathustra[H]]

The freight driver swaps them in one stop. I'm not sure the freight driver would wait for the packaging to be opened, swapped and boxed up. They're on a schedule and lose money by the minute. Let us know how it goes.

I actually thought the above would be the case as well, but I spoke to the UPS freight coordinator. She told me when to expect them, and I asked if I could do the swap, if I prepared my old panel so it was a simple drop in. She radioed the driver and said it was OK.

One of those "asking doesn't hurt" things... Worst that can happen is they say no.

Maybe tomorrow is a light day or something.

 

[XxDaRkReAp3rxXdOtCoM]

FWIW. Checklist of things to do.

click source on remote. go to HDMI 1, push down arrow on remote. select "edit device type" and scroll down and select PC.

Click menu on remote, select"menu" then"picture" then scroll down to "picture option" and turn "HDMI UHD color" to "on".

Also under "picture option" scroll to "hdmi black level" and select "normal"

Go back to menu, select "smart hub" then turn "smart hub auto start" to "off"

Go back to menu, select "system", scroll down to "general" and turn"instant on" to "off"

My current picture setting in PC mode:

Backlight 12
Contrast 85
Brightness 30-35
Sharpness 50

I also went into "menu" "system" "eco solution" and turned "eco sensor" to "on" and set min backlight at 6

Unless you're extremely sensitive to lag, I would update the firmware to the latest version. There are a lot of improvements made since first release.

Thanks. Is sharpness supposed to be set to 0 though? I thought I remember reading that somewhere on this thread. I will have to find some input lag information on tftcentral for the old monitors I used to use (like 226BW, BL3200PT, and S2440L) to see how they were. I've never had any issue with input lag on any of my monitors so I might just be fine but I will double check that, thanks.

I would say that depends on what firmware version yours comes with. If it comes with 1204 or earlier, I probably wouldn't. My testing showed that firmware 1004 and 1006 (factory firmwares) were still faster than today's. Granted that was on a JU7500, but I feel like the same may apply with the 6700. I believe the extra processing lag came to be in game mode and somehow PC mode after 1207 since they increased chroma levels in game mode. It's really not easy to say for certain though since I haven't tested firmware 1201, 1202, 1203, 1204. But that is my guess... Things could always get better, and they certainly weren't "bad" by any means. But when I had updated my JU7500 to 1215 and compared it directly to my JS9000 running the latest, the JU7500 got slower than what it was on the stock firmware by about 1-2 frames depending on the settings.

Optimal settings... backlight, contrast, brightness are all dependent on you. I run mine a backlight 20 and it doesn't bother me. Brightness is at 45 and contrast 100. You may want to turn the color setting up about 10 points or so to increase saturation since its a bit lacking on the 6000 and 7000 series TV's compared to the quantom dot ones. Game mode is identical to PC mode for actual gaming. Text is the only place that fuzziness can appear, and on the latest firmwares, it's only on certain colored text. To turn on game mode, goto SYSTEM and GENERAL. For PC mode, you select it under device options of your source selection. You can turn on/off whatever else you like. I run with Smart LED and black levels set to dark for a bit more contrast and better blacks - this has never added processing time for me. HDMI black level should be set to NORMAL, not auto/low - be weary of it resetting sometimes because you may prefer the look of low/auto, but it is meant for TV/movies since it kills dark detail levels by making everything black and oversaturating colors big time.

What do the increased chroma levels in game mode mean? Thanks for the info, I will have to give normal and auto/low a try.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

Thanks. Is sharpness supposed to be set to 0 though? I thought I remember reading that somewhere on this thread.

Each TV mode setting (PC mode, game mode, etc. etc.) has its own picture settings profile that it remembers.

Not only are they individually configurable, and the individual settings are remembered, but they also have different defaults, and the settings mean different things.

For instance, a sharpness of 0 in game mode, is apparently the same as a sharpness of 50 in PC mode (correct me if I am wrong here guys)

These are really all recommendations of what has worked for others though. For each mode, you can fiddle with it until you find a setting you like.

The key things to remember is that for game mode to work, you first have to set the HDMI input to "game" bu going to the source screen, and holding the button over the desired HDMI input until the options menu appears. After that you have to go into the settings menu and enable game mode.

The defaults are atrocious (very bright, high sharpness and contrast). Change these to settings you like better. Then when you are ready to go back to PC mode, just change the HDMI input (no need to go into settings to toggle game mode on or off).

You will find that it remembered your PC mode settings.

In the future, any time you want to switch back to game mode, just go to your source again, pull up the config menu and change it from PC back to game mode. again, it will have remembered your game mode settings from last time.

The configuration settings for these TV's are a little convoluted before you learn them.

What do the increased chroma levels in game mode mean? Thanks for the info, I will have to give normal and auto/low a try.

This should explain it better than I can.

 

[Wag]

http://demo-uhd3d.com/categorie.php?tag=hdr

Downloaded these 2 HDR demos and put them on a USB stick and popped them in my 48JU6700 and gave them a try. Wow! I'm impressed. I know my TV doesn't support HDR but it's doing something. They certainly look better than a standard UHD clip. I recommend other people try them out. They're short.

 

[Tyler-Durden]

I apologize if this is a question with a painfully obvious answer, but here it comes: Do these TVs default to PC mode when connected to a computer? I ask because I can't find anything on any menu that allows an HDMI input to be assigned PC mode.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I apologize if this is a question with a painfully obvious answer, but here it comes: Do these TVs default to PC mode when connected to a computer? I ask because I can't find anything on any menu that allows an HDMI input to be assigned PC mode.

1.) Hit the source button on your remote.
2.) Use the remote directional buttons to move the highlight over the HDMI input you want to change.
3.) Hold the select button. A menu will appear.
4.) The top menu entry allows you to change the input mode.

At least this is how it works on my JS9000

Definitely not intuitive, but it works once you get used to it.

 

[Tyler-Durden]

1.) Hit the source button on your remote.
2.) Use the remote directional buttons to move the highlight over the HDMI input you want to change.
3.) Hold the select button. A menu will appear.
4.) The top menu entry allows you to change the input mode.

At least this is how it works on my JS9000

Definitely not intuitive, but it works once you get used to it.

Thanks, man!! I never used the SmartRemote again after I programmed my Logitech remote to turn on/off the TV.

Holy fucknuts the picture looks so much better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

Thanks, man!! I never used the SmartRemote again after I programmed my Logitech remote to turn it on/off.

Holy fucknuts the picture looks so much better!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No problem!

Don't forget to go into the nvidia control panel and change mode from RGB to Y'CbCr444. This should also have a further improvement. Also, you should (if you havent yet) enable UHD mode for the HDMI port you are using in the setup menu. This should further improve picture.

To switch back and forth to game mode, just do the same thing you did to select PC mode. Then go into the TV setup screen and enable Game mode. This only has to be done once, then you can switch back and forth between PC and game mode in the source menu.

 

[Wag]

I get my 980Ti today. Game Mode does not support 4:4:4, correct? Will I notice a difference? I imagine PC mode is a bit slower to game in?

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I get my 980Ti today. Game Mode does not support 4:4:4, correct? Will I notice a difference? I imagine PC mode is a bit slower to game in?

Correct.

On all of these screens PC Mode (When UHD mode in TV settings is enabled and you have an HDMI2 connection) results in 4:4:4 Chroma. For best results change Nvidia control panel (on resolution tab) from RGB mode to Y'CbCr444 to match.

Game mode (I believe) runs in 4:2:2.

Here's where the various models are slightly different.

On my JS9000 with the latest 1217 firmware, once properly set up, PC Mode and Game mode are very very similar in game, from an appearance perspective. Game mode has significantly lower lag, but small text can suffer in quality. Everything else looks pretty much the same to me. I can pick out minute differences in color clarity if I do a side by side test, but without it, I'd never know the difference, unless I was trying to read fine print.

What is the same on all models though is that input lag is higher in PC mode than in game mode. How significantly different depends on the model and your sensitivity to it.

Game mode also needs to be selected in two places to be active, first in the source for the HDMI port mode, and then in the settings page. Once this is donwe picture will look TERRIBLE, but that's because the default game mode settings are crap. Adjust them and iot looks pretty damned good.

 

[Mr. Neverbicker]

I actually thought the above would be the case as well, but I spoke to the UPS freight coordinator. She told me when to expect them, and I asked if I could do the swap, if I prepared my old panel so it was a simple drop in. She radioed the driver and said it was OK.

One of those "asking doesn't hurt" things... Worst that can happen is they say no.

Maybe tomorrow is a light day or something.

Great to hear. One day left sure is a tough wait for the exchange. Best of luck with the new one.

 

[XxDaRkReAp3rxXdOtCoM]

Each TV mode setting (PC mode, game mode, etc. etc.) has its own picture settings profile that it remembers.

Not only are they individually configurable, and the individual settings are remembered, but they also have different defaults, and the settings mean different things.

For instance, a sharpness of 0 in game mode, is apparently the same as a sharpness of 50 in PC mode (correct me if I am wrong here guys)

These are really all recommendations of what has worked for others though. For each mode, you can fiddle with it until you find a setting you like.

The key things to remember is that for game mode to work, you first have to set the HDMI input to "game" bu going to the source screen, and holding the button over the desired HDMI input until the options menu appears. After that you have to go into the settings menu and enable game mode.

The defaults are atrocious (very bright, high sharpness and contrast). Change these to settings you like better. Then when you are ready to go back to PC mode, just change the HDMI input (no need to go into settings to toggle game mode on or off).

You will find that it remembered your PC mode settings.

In the future, any time you want to switch back to game mode, just go to your source again, pull up the config menu and change it from PC back to game mode. again, it will have remembered your game mode settings from last time.

The configuration settings for these TV's are a little convoluted before you learn them.



This should explain it better than I can.

Ahh I see. Yes, I was aware of the 4:4:4 thing from some posts in here and how TVs without this high setting (like 4:2:2) will look like crap for text. So essentially, game mode will lower it from 4:4:4 and that's the primary reason for text looking like crap?

e.g.

vs

I guess I won't use game mode as it would be a PITA switching back and forth.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

Great to hear. One day left sure is a tough wait for the exchange. Best of luck with the new one.

Thank you!

I'm taking off for the weekend to visit my grandmother for her 96th birthday too, so I won't have a chance to check it for defects until (probably) Monday evening. The wait to find out if I got a good one or not is going to drive me nuts.

 

[Wiz33]

Thanks. Is sharpness supposed to be set to 0 though? I thought I remember reading that somewhere on this thread. I will have to find some input lag information on tftcentral for the old monitors I used to use (like 226BW, BL3200PT, and S2440L) to see how they were. I've never had any issue with input lag on any of my monitors so I might just be fine but I will double check that, thanks.



What do the increased chroma levels in game mode mean? Thanks for the info, I will have to give normal and auto/low a try.

For game mode, Sharpness should be at 0 but in PC mode it should be at 50.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

I guess I won't use game mode as it would be a PITA switching back and forth.

It really isn't bad. I do it in the time it takes a game to load.

That being said, I consider PC mode to be fully playable in the games I play, but in FPS:es game mode just feels a little better.

 

[SixFootDuo]

Anyone who is on the fence, here is your chance.

40" 4K JU6500 for $699

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung...lack/3953157.p?id=1219609307257&skuId=3953157

 

[XxDaRkReAp3rxXdOtCoM]

Anyone who is on the fence, here is your chance.

40" 4K JU6500 for $699

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/samsung...lack/3953157.p?id=1219609307257&skuId=3953157

That's the same price as Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889354956 and Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-UN40JU6500-40-Inch-Ultra-Smart/dp/B00TWFHDAO

 

[Tyler-Durden]

No problem!

Don't forget to go into the nvidia control panel and change mode from RGB to Y'CbCr444. This should also have a further improvement. Also, you should (if you havent yet) enable UHD mode for the HDMI port you are using in the setup menu. This should further improve picture.

To switch back and forth to game mode, just do the same thing you did to select PC mode. Then go into the TV setup screen and enable Game mode. This only has to be done once, then you can switch back and forth between PC and game mode in the source menu.

I'd already done just about everything you mentioned and I liked the picture. It really wasn't until I read more about changing HDMI inputs to PC mode that I began wondering what I was missing. Turns out I was missing a lot. I'm in total love with my Sammy TV, now!

 

[Wag]

OK, I installed my 980Ti but I still don't have access to such settings as HDMI Black Levels on my 48JU6700. It's locked out and it says "Auto". The only thing I can change on the Picture Options page is HDMI UHD and it's ON.

 

[MrPix]

OK, I installed my 980Ti but I still don't have access to such settings as HDMI Black Levels on my 48JU6700. It's locked out and it says "Auto". The only thing I can change on the Picture Options page is HDMI UHD and it's ON.

This should be available if you are in RGB (Full or limited) mode in the Change Resolution > Output color format options in Nvidia CP. In the YCbCr444 mode it is not by default.

 

[vorpel]

So, my replacement JS9000 from Critchfield should be arriving tomorrow.

I figure to save myself the hassle of rebuilding the old box and packing all the accessories, I'll just take the screen out of the new box, and replace it with the old one and give it back to UPS Freight.

Does anyone know how I can reset the Bluetooth pairing on the existing remote, so it works with the replacement screen?

Don't the boxes have the serial number info on them? If they do, I think it would be unwise to just swap the panel out.

 

[Lateralus]

Thank you!

I'm taking off for the weekend to visit my grandmother for her 96th birthday too, so I won't have a chance to check it for defects until (probably) Monday evening. The wait to find out if I got a good one or not is going to drive me nuts.

Wow, 96? That's awesome! Hopefully you inherited some of her genes.

I'd already done just about everything you mentioned and I liked the picture. It really wasn't until I read more about changing HDMI inputs to PC mode that I began wondering what I was missing. Turns out I was missing a lot. I'm in total love with my Sammy TV, now!

Another victim I see

OK, I installed my 980Ti but I still don't have access to such settings as HDMI Black Levels on my 48JU6700. It's locked out and it says "Auto". The only thing I can change on the Picture Options page is HDMI UHD and it's ON.

This happens when YCbCr444 is selected as the output color format in nVidia Control Panel. When it's set to RGB, the setting on the TV is unlocked and you can manually change it. I guess when YCbCr444 is selected, it sends a signal to the TV that automatically selects and tells the TV which format to use.

 

[Wag]

I did. It's still not on.

OK, when I select RGB I can select HDMI Black Level options but when I pick YCbCr444 it's locked out. Is that how it's supposed to be? Ahh, beaten.

Ok, so is YCbCr444 the preferred format?

BTW: After using my OG 6GB Titans for over 2mos I realize how crappy 4:2:0 4k 60Hz looked.

 

[Wiz33]

OK, I installed my 980Ti but I still don't have access to such settings as HDMI Black Levels on my 48JU6700. It's locked out and it says "Auto". The only thing I can change on the Picture Options page is HDMI UHD and it's ON.

Although it's grey out on "Auto" if you set YCbCr444 on the nVidia control panel. It's actually default to "Normal" on HDMI Black level.

 

[nothinglitup]

Did you see this video of DAI running in 4K on a TitanX with pretty much everything maxed. Might want to try his settings and see. Even with only a 980 you should still get over 20fps, not what you're experiencing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6YYaJnQ2bw

OK. I just tried DAI on my home system. All settings under Graphic Options are Ultra or High with Vegetation Quantity at Medium and both Anti-aliasing option turned off and I'm running OK. I don't have a fps counter but it was fairly smooth running around the keep and shooting some arrows. Have not venture out as I have totally forgotten all the key binds so it may drop a bit more in combat and such. BTW, I'm using 353.30 driver.

Thank you very much, I'll take a look at the video and my settings. It must be something odd I've set incorrectly somewhere.

 

[bulbrook]

Been watching Mozart in the Jungle on Amazon prime. It is one of two shows available to stream in HDR on the JS9000. The picture is amazing straight on. Overall I still prefer my f8500 plasma for its inky blacks and jaw dropping picture, but this is by far the best led picture for movies and tv I have ever seen. Maybe oled in hdr will top it down the road.

It's cool to have an amazing computer monitor for games and work that is also an amazing TV. Man I wish I had this in my dorm room in college.

 

[seanclayton]

Samsung is about to release a new SUHD JS7000. It has quantum dot with size of 50", 55", and 60". If js8500 48" is $1499, then this should be around low 1k. Hold those wallets guys. Quantum dot for everybody is almost possible.
http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN60JS7000FXZA

 

[WorldExclusive]

Samsung is about to release a new SUHD JS7000. It has quantum dot with size of 50", 55", and 60". If js8500 48" is $1499, then this should be around low 1k. Hold those wallets guys. Quantum dot for everybody is almost possible.
http://www.samsung.com/us/video/tvs/UN60JS7000FXZA

I like this, but from what I see it doesn't have a curve. At 50", I would want a curve.
It's listed for $1300.
http://www.abt.com/product/92613/Samsung-UN50JS7000FXZA.html

I really would like to see a curved 40-48" QD.

 

[seanclayton]

Maybe there will be A JS7500 in the future. Either way. Quantum dot wide color gamut is hitting mainstream and will most likely be a standard feat in all tvs next year.

 

[Mako360]

I did. It's still not on.

OK, when I select RGB I can select HDMI Black Level options but when I pick YCbCr444 it's locked out. Is that how it's supposed to be? Ahh, beaten.

Ok, so is YCbCr444 the preferred format?

BTW: After using my OG 6GB Titans for over 2mos I realize how crappy 4:2:0 4k 60Hz looked.

Remember also that anything other than "Normal" Black Level typically crushes blacks badly depending on your other settings.

Test it here: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

If you can't count all of the squares, you're missing significant black detail. Set it to Normal and leave it.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

Don't the boxes have the serial number info on them? If they do, I think it would be unwise to just swap the panel out.

Hmm. I checked, and yes they do.

Mayube I will ahve to pack the whole thing up anyway, and reassemble the box. damn.

(Or maybe I could rip the sticker off one, and put it on the other )

 

[rawbogm]

Well I'm 3 for 3 on 40JU6500's with dust/dirt trapped in the screen. All from the same Best Buy. Not sure if they got a bad batch or what. Keeping this one as it only has one spot about 2" from the right side of the screen and I have to sit closer than I normally do to really notice it.

Also has a bulge in the top bezel like someone put a screw in too deep at the factory.

 

[WorldExclusive]

Was it shipped to you or did you walk in?

I had to walk in to get mine and inspect on the spot. I wouldn't consider another option.

 

[El-Dubya]

Alright, after many days I finally got this tv the way I like it (also thank you Cyph for your help). Although I hardly hear it mentioned here much (if at all) after reading countless pages, I really enjoy having the auto motion plus setting on clear, and so that means I can't have PC mode or Game mode on. Therefore I've been trying hard using test pages here: www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ to configure full black levels and not screw up white saturation.

For anyone interested this is what I came up with for the UN55JU7100 for mainly PC gaming (via Titan X, 353.06 driver):

device type: Game
picture mode: Movie
15, 100, 46, 0, 60, g50/r50
Adv. settings:
off, off, 4, auto, (all white levels @ 0), 0
Pic. Options:
standard, off, off, normal, UHD Color (on), clear, off

Nvidia control panel:
RGB, full
Desktop color: "use Nv settings" all default (must be ticked on for white saturation not to screw up, and still show all squares in black level test).

 

[rawbogm]

Was it shipped to you or did you walk in?

I had to walk in to get mine and inspect on the spot. I wouldn't consider another option.

Walked in. They let me inspect the 2nd one but I just had the setup screen to look at. Didn't notice it had a dust spot in the middle of the screen until I got it home. Should have brought a flash drive with test images.

 

[Zarathustra[H]]

Don't the boxes have the serial number info on them? If they do, I think it would be unwise to just swap the panel out.

Yeah, I wound up packing the old one up because of this.

I had some extra time before hitting the road for the weekend, so I decided to open the box and check it out right away.


Immediately I noticed something was awry. The styrofoam was slightly damaged, the black box containing the "smart connect" box didn't have any shrink wrap on it, and the foam sleeve covering the TV was disheveled and caught on the smart connect box.

When I opened it up, the screw holes for the stand were obviously disturbed, so I knew it had been set up before.

The most concerning part I found was what I found taped to the back of the screen when I took the sleeve off of it.

My Spanish is a little non-existent, but it is obviously a "non-conforming label", and the motivo (=which I assume means "reason") says Panel quebrado, which Google translate tells me means "broken panel".

The Spanish part makes sense, as Samsung manufactures these in Mexico.

I'm already pretty peeved at this point, but I decided to set it up and see how broken it was.

Everything appears to be working normally. There are no stuck or dead pixels that I can find. The biggest problem seems to be a little light bleed on black screens in the bottom left corner, but now I don't know if I am getting over-sensitive as I am looking for faults due to the "panel quebrado" note.

I am pretty pissed at this point. This is the second afternoon I have taken off from work in order to be here when the UPS Freight guy comes, and now I get one that has already been identified at the factory as defective...

Before I let my normal calm and cool self send an angry note to Crutchfield, any of you guys care to give me your opinions on how to handle this?

I kind of feel uncomfortable keeping a panel that has a label on it that says it is broken, especially when I have no idea what it was referring to. For all I know, it could be something intermittent that I'm not seeing now, that's going to blow up on me down the road. Were they talking about the bottom left color bleed? Or am I overreacting to that one.

I also CERTAINLY don't want to be here a third afternoon, to pack up and send back a second bad panel...

Also, my office smells like glue / solvents. Makes me wonder if some shoddy repair was done to this unit at the plant.

The thing is, I just spent TWO THOUSAND dollars on a TV brand new from a trusted retailer. I didn't go to an outlet shop and pick up an irregular or a Korean Off Brand model. I shouldn't have to be going through this...

Appreciate any input.

--Matt

 

[messier83]

I actually had to register here to comment on this discussion. I have tested two Samsung models so far. One was 48" JU6475 (not sure what non-european model it equals to) and the other was 48" JU7005 which I suppose is equal to JU7100. As for reference, I have compared them to my current 32” Samsung ES6800 (2011-2012? model).

To my surprise both new samsungs offered inferior black level and contrast ratio compared to ES6800 when tuned to similar brightness level. Naturally JU7005 was a bit better than JU6475, but still left a lot to be desired for me. This is a bit shocking as I expected new 2015 models, especially the 7000 series to be a step up in this regards. My old ES6800 offers deeper blacks even when comparing it local dimming disabled to JU7005 smart led enabled (this is not a HDMI 16-235 level issue). I don’t see much complaints here about the black level with these new 2015 models. So I wonder if most of the folks here might be coming from PC monitor land where smaller contrast ratios are a standard? Of course, I appreciate that it’s everyone’s personal taste what aspects to esteem and what not.

I have a question regarding the input lag of the game mode discussed here. I assume that when you are speaking about the game mode, you mean the one that is located at the input port device type menu.

I’m not very sensitive to input lag and the game mode of JU7005 offered very acceptable latency at 3840 x 2160 resolution. BUT... when I set the resolution to 1080p as my display adapter can’t run games at 4k, a horrible input lag appears. I can literally move my mouse and watch the cursor to catch it up. When I select the PC mode, this doesn’t happen. I can run any resolution without extra lag.

Has anyone noticed this? I suppose there is no way to fix it? I have checked every processing options in picture menu and there wasn't anything that could possible cause it.

 

[Cyph]

I actually had to register here to comment on this discussion. I have tested two Samsung models so far. One was 48" JU6475 (not sure what non-european model it equals to) and the other was 48" JU7005 which I suppose is equal to JU7100. As for reference, I have compared them to my current 32” Samsung ES6800 (2011-2012? model).

To my surprise both new samsungs offered inferior black level and contrast ratio compared to ES6800 when tuned to similar brightness level. Naturally JU7005 was a bit better than JU6475, but still left a lot to be desired for me. This is a bit shocking as I expected new 2015 models, especially the 7000 series to be a step up in this regards. My old ES6800 offers deeper blacks even when comparing it local dimming disabled to JU7005 smart led enabled (this is not a HDMI 16-235 level issue). I don’t see much complaints here about the black level with these new 2015 models. So I wonder if most of the folks here might be coming from PC monitor land where smaller contrast ratios are a standard? Of course, I appreciate that it’s everyone’s personal taste what aspects to esteem and what not.

I have a question regarding the input lag of the game mode discussed here. I assume that when you are speaking about the game mode, you mean the one that is located at the input port device type menu.

I’m not very sensitive to input lag and the game mode of JU7005 offered very acceptable latency at 3840 x 2160 resolution. BUT... when I set the resolution to 1080p as my display adapter can’t run games at 4k, a horrible input lag appears. I can literally move my mouse and watch the cursor to catch it up. When I select the PC mode, this doesn’t happen. I can run any resolution without extra lag.

Has anyone noticed this? I suppose there is no way to fix it? I have checked every processing options in picture menu and there wasn't anything that could possible cause it.

You need to set it to PC mode to eliminate lag. Regular TV mode will have bad input lag.

The ES series are known to have grayish blacks so I'm surprised to see you find that it is better. Not sure what's going on there. Are you saying that when viewing Hard Forum, the black portions are blacker on your ES? That's surprising as it looks really good on my 7100.

 

[Honeydew]

I did. It's still not on.

OK, when I select RGB I can select HDMI Black Level options but when I pick YCbCr444 it's locked out. Is that how it's supposed to be? Ahh, beaten.

Ok, so is YCbCr444 the preferred format?

BTW: After using my OG 6GB Titans for over 2mos I realize how crappy 4:2:0 4k 60Hz looked.

I would advise you to consider sticking with RGB. Those providing support for YCbCr444 are expressing a preference that shouldn't be confused with a consensus. I tried them both and preferred RGB. Season to your individual tastes, but don't feel compelled to do so because it has the aura of being the correct mode. Your display, your choice.

 

[messier83]

You need to set it to PC mode to eliminate lag. Regular TV mode will have bad input lag.

The ES series are known to have grayish blacks so I'm surprised to see you find that it is better. Not sure what's going on there. Are you saying that when viewing Hard Forum, the black portions are blacker on your ES? That's surprising as it looks really good on my 7100.

Greetings Cyph,

What I meant that why there is no noticeable lag when running game mode at 4k, but lots of lag when running it at 1080p? It feels quite unexpected.

Yes, my ES6800 really offers fantastic blacks. Back then I compared it with ES6575 and that one did fit easily into "grayish black" category you mentioned.

My testing methods were:

1. Simply set a black screen and compare both screens local dimming features off, similar back light brightness and dark room. There was a huge difference favoring ES6800. The back light of JU7005 was acceptable even, but simply it's more prominent.

2. Compare with a movie sample with dark scenes. With and without local dimming features. With JU7005 they looked more washed out, while ES6800 maintained punchy, near perfect blacks. And again, both screens were using similar brightness, HDMI level of 0-255 (all dark tones represented correctly).

I'm surprised you see the opposite with your screen. scratching my head...