New Samsung 4k for everyone.

Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:

a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc

Thank you.
 
Also consider that LEDs take some time to bed in before the final colour spectrum sets.

For example, I am using 2 point source LED lights for my fish tank, rated at 6500K.
When I first got them, they had a slightly green hue and were lacking in red.
After 6 months they gave a lovely colour, plenty of red and the green was no longer dominant.
Its now 2 years later and they are just as good.
 
Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:

a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc

Thank you.

a) 48" Curved
b) 36 inches from eyes to center
c) 100%

I withheld (didn't need) to adjust the DPI higher because I came from a Dell 30" which I had left at 100%, and the size is about the same with the 48" being 3-feet away versus the Dell 30" was at 2-feet away. Seeing 143 rows in Excel at one time is too juicy haha.

Definitely sure though that if I had the 40", and had it at 36-inches away or more, that I'd need to bump it to 125% though.
 
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Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:

a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc

Thank you.

a) 40"
b) 3' with KB/mouse, with an Xbox controller, I scoot even further back; playing on a big screen on a couch is much more relaxing than up close; the further back from LED lights the better for less eye fatigue
c) 125%, it's readable at 100% but I like my font big
 
Also consider that LEDs take some time to bed in before the final colour spectrum sets.

For example, I am using 2 point source LED lights for my fish tank, rated at 6500K.
When I first got them, they had a slightly green hue and were lacking in red.
After 6 months they gave a lovely colour, plenty of red and the green was no longer dominant.
Its now 2 years later and they are just as good.

According to who? Overdriven/damaged LEDs, or unstable phosphors, may shift, but LEDs in general will only tint-shift over many thousands of hours due to decreased output. Purchase two white LEDs, run one for a year straight at max rated current (8700 hours), compare to the second white LED that was left untouched - unless damaged, the only difference will be the used-LED will be dimmer, having a very small color shift due to a dropped output going through the same phosphor.

The forward-Voltage may drop a very small amount on an LED in the first few hours of use, which could increase its output depending on how it is being driven/limited, making it push a different amount of light through the phosphor coating. Beyond this small shift, any quality LED is stable.

LEDs aren't like most other light sources that do tint-shift quite a bit during their lifetime. LEDs are pretty damn stable.
 
Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:

a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc

Thank you.

48" curved
32-36 (depending on sitting up straight or slightly leaning forward)
100%

Like Mako I came from Dell 30" 1600p monitors, so this feels the same to me.
 
Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:

a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc

Thank you.

a) 40"
b) 2.5 feet to 3 feet
c) Desktop DPI 125%. Browser default page zoom set to 150%.
 
I got a call from the store about my wish to return the TV. I told them I was feeling fatigue and headache, they asked me if I tried different settings, I said "yes I tried but it did not help", then they said that the standard TV settings out of box is not good and I have to change them, and I told them once again that I tried everything and it did not help, but then they said how every TV will be like that. I then tried to explain that I think a very low PWM is the cause but they did not seem to understand and at the end they said "ok... you have the right to return the TV ofc, ship it back to us".

Ofc they were not happy to hear that I will return it, because they will lose money now but I can not keep something that I can't use without getting headache :(
 
48" curved
32-36 (depending on sitting up straight or slightly leaning forward)
100%

Like Mako I came from Dell 30" 1600p monitors, so this feels the same to me.

Exactly the same for me. Same distance, same scaling etc. I used 3x 30" Dell 3007WFP-HC 2560x1600 monitors for years and then breifly went to 3x ROG Swift 27" 25601440 monitors.
 
Can a few of you that own the Samsung 40 or 48 share the following please:

a) 40" or 48"
b) Your distance from screen
c) Desktop DPI scaling, 100%, 125%, 150% etc

Thank you.

  • 40" (curved)
  • ~3'
  • Desktop 100%, Browser 125%
 
1st post...

I've been lurking here the past couple of week thinking about getting one of these primarily for programming.

Well, Crutchfield just sent me this...

yKovqko.jpg


That's a 40" 6700.

The box and packaging looks perfect.
I'm guessing these curved screens are just prone to cracking easier. Better be careful if you ever move with one of these.

Crutchfield was good about it on the phone. But now I gotta wait for UPS to contact me about returning the damaged item.
Gah.
 
1st post...

I've been lurking here the past couple of week thinking about getting one of these primarily for programming.

Well, Crutchfield just sent me this...

That's a 40" 6700.

The box and packaging looks perfect.
I'm guessing these curved screens are just prone to cracking easier. Better be careful if you ever move with one of these.

Crutchfield was good about it on the phone. But now I gotta wait for UPS to contact me about returning the damaged item.
Gah.

Oh geez, that sucks. It's weird that the screen gets cracked but the box is fine, I received a damaged box but the TV was fine. I have to return mine to the store and I am afraid that it might get damaged on it's way to them, I really really hope it will be fine when they get it. Ordering monitors and TVs over the internet is always risky.
 
That's been the general consensus in this thread. At 48" it isn't such a gimmick when talking about using this display as a monitor. At 40" it is unnecessary and possibly undesirable.

The 48 is the same angular size as the 40 at 29in vs 24in away. What a world of difference that 5 inches must make.

It really depends on the LED. Due to the phosphor coating, less light should have it get warmed up a bit by the consistent phosphor thickness, but I have seen some weird behaviors with white LEDs at different power levels. I wouldn't consider a green-shift to be useable.

I know what you're saying, but the green-shift is only substantial at order(s) of magnitude current differences. A minor shift is pretty easily corrected by the panel. Due to the color of the output we know it's fairly standard white leds.

According to who? Overdriven/damaged LEDs, or unstable phosphors, may shift, but LEDs in general will only tint-shift over many thousands of hours due to decreased output. Purchase two white LEDs, run one for a year straight at max rated current (8700 hours), compare to the second white LED that was left untouched - unless damaged, the only difference will be the used-LED will be dimmer, having a very small color shift due to a dropped output going through the same phosphor.

The forward-Voltage may drop a very small amount on an LED in the first few hours of use, which could increase its output depending on how it is being driven/limited, making it push a different amount of light through the phosphor coating. Beyond this small shift, any quality LED is stable.

LEDs aren't like most other light sources that do tint-shift quite a bit during their lifetime. LEDs are pretty damn stable.

This is right due to how LEDs work. The blue light emitted by the semiconducting part is fixed. The phosphor to make it not completely blue is also more or less fixed (and if it deteriorates only makes things more blue). The only other thing that possibly changes is any mechanical optics used, like for CREE XP type emitters the output nearer the center is supposed warmer if the dome falls off.
 
I got a call from the store about my wish to return the TV. I told them I was feeling fatigue and headache, they asked me if I tried different settings, I said "yes I tried but it did not help", then they said that the standard TV settings out of box is not good and I have to change them, and I told them once again that I tried everything and it did not help, but then they said how every TV will be like that. I then tried to explain that I think a very low PWM is the cause but they did not seem to understand and at the end they said "ok... you have the right to return the TV ofc, ship it back to us".

Ofc they were not happy to hear that I will return it, because they will lose money now but I can not keep something that I can't use without getting headache :(

Who was the seller? I've gotta call Crutchfield and tell em' I've got TWO to ship back! :(
Hopefully some of this makes it back to Samsung concerning future PWM/bottom-line $ decisions. Probably not.
 
Who was the seller? I've gotta call Crutchfield and tell em' I've got TWO to ship back! :(
Hopefully some of this makes it back to Samsung concerning future PWM/bottom-line $ decisions. Probably not.

I don't live in US, I live in EU, so it's not a US store like Crutchfield.

You have to return 2, that's even worse, but according to the law they have to take it back without you even having to provide a reason, even thought they will get unhappy because they might have to sell it at 30% less or whatever and lose cash. It's always a bad idea to buy stuff to try out and then return. Amazon is banning customers that keeps returning stuff "a lot".

It really sucks that the manufacturers do no tell about PWM. That's because it's a negative thing and if they did mention it maybe not many people would buy it so they simply leave out such information.

Does anyone know any TV manufacturer that does not use PWM? I still plan to buy a 48-50" TV if everything goes well with this return, so I would like to know which TV is expected to not have PWM, or at least not have terribly low PWM, because I don't really want to go through more return processes.

I can stare at my Benq for 12 hours and my eyes does not get tired so much, but I stare at the Sammy for 15 min and I can already feel fatigue.
 
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Also, I played some more BF4 this morning with fresh eyes and the 7500 is really an amazingly good gaming monitor for it's size. There is a substantial difference in how fast it is over the 6700. Not trying to beat the dead horse even more, just sayin'. I have zero issues with the level of blur from the 7500.

Why you little... :D

The only thing that worries me is the possible panel lottery that someone mentioned earlier. It would suck to order a 7500 and receive a different panel than the one you and Cyph got. I wish that we could get some confirmation on this, rather than just speculation like "Well they've done it in the past."

How can we tell what brand and model of panels these are using? The AVS guys are usually all over that sort of thing, but I really don't feel like slogging through the huge threads over there.
 
Now that I've had a day at work, and revisted the 48" I am coming around on it. I have another 29 days to decide but I'm leaning towards keeping it.
 
I think it's more than fair to say Crutchfield is off the map for someone you want to order from.
 
Now that I've had a day at work, and revisted the 48" I am coming around on it. I have another 29 days to decide but I'm leaning towards keeping it.

I wasn't sure either while getting used to it. I did a motherboard review and switched between it and the Dell 3007WFP-HC on my test bench and realized they were largely similar in many areas.
 
Why you little... :D

The only thing that worries me is the possible panel lottery that someone mentioned earlier. It would suck to order a 7500 and receive a different panel than the one you and Cyph got. I wish that we could get some confirmation on this, rather than just speculation like "Well they've done it in the past."

How can we tell what brand and model of panels these are using? The AVS guys are usually all over that sort of thing, but I really don't feel like slogging through the huge threads over there.

BART! DOH!!! :D

There's no panel lottery going on - any person that has had experience with both has consistently said the 7500 is faster. Straight up. The "lottery" comes down to people's differing ability to perceive blur - mostly among the 6700 crowd.
 
My question is, as I'm also replacing my 70" Sharp soon is what is the state of PWM in the big screens? If I drop $4500 on a new 80" 4K UH30 Sharp, will it have PWM? If so, what freq?

Samsung's 88" $23,000 JS9500 set - does it have PWM? FALD, of course, but what does it use to dim? I cannot imagine 88 inches of low-freq PWM in my face. I think I'd start having seizures and soil myself.
 
I wasn't sure either while getting used to it. I did a motherboard review and switched between it and the Dell 3007WFP-HC on my test bench and realized they were largely similar in many areas.

Yea, I am coming from a Dell 3007WFP-HC myself. On one hand it is a definitely upgrade in size and resolution, but I am not WOWed by it like I was when I got the Dell. At the time the 1600p resolution was so much better than what I was used to it was a definite WOW.

Part of me wants to return it and wait for the mythical OLED 4K monitor, but realistically I don't think such a product will be at a good price point for at least 2 years.
 
Also, when I boot my computer I didn't notice the BIOS being displayed. Is this normal with using a TV as a monitor, or is there something I can change to allow me to see the BIOS on bootup?
 
It's hit and miss with me - sometimes I'll see the BIOS screen, sometimes not (usually not). I'm not sure what I'm doing to be able to see it.
 
Why you little... :D

The only thing that worries me is the possible panel lottery that someone mentioned earlier. It would suck to order a 7500 and receive a different panel than the one you and Cyph got. I wish that we could get some confirmation on this, rather than just speculation like "Well they've done it in the past."

How can we tell what brand and model of panels these are using? The AVS guys are usually all over that sort of thing, but I really don't feel like slogging through the huge threads over there.

I got a TS01 48JU7500... made by Samsung. The panel lottery will be more an issue as the months go on and they have other plants make them and cheaper...
 
Also, when I boot my computer I didn't notice the BIOS being displayed. Is this normal with using a TV as a monitor, or is there something I can change to allow me to see the BIOS on bootup?

I did not have that problem on this Samsung, but on another Samsung from last year I did experience it, it tends to happen when UHD color is on.
 
My question is, as I'm also replacing my 70" Sharp soon is what is the state of PWM in the big screens? If I drop $4500 on a new 80" 4K UH30 Sharp, will it have PWM? If so, what freq?

Samsung's 88" $23,000 JS9500 set - does it have PWM? FALD, of course, but what does it use to dim? I cannot imagine 88 inches of low-freq PWM in my face. I think I'd start having seizures and soil myself.

Wait, you want to spend $23.000 on a TV? Why not buy OLED then?

I myself will be looking at LG or Panasonic later, although I don't like the look of Firefox OS on the Panasonics.
 
Oh I'm not dropping $23K on a set, lol. I'm just asking is if POS crappy 120hz PWM dimming is what they put in their $23K sets, lol.

No, I've got a $5K TV budget - which means a Sharp UH30 80" (need bigger than 70".)
 
For those that have gotten the 40" 6700, did the packing material include a styrofoam piece in front of the screen? My 48" did, but the 40" did not. I wonder if that is a contributing factor to the shipped screen damages where the box looks great.
 
For those that have gotten the 40" 6700, did the packing material include a styrofoam piece in front of the screen? My 48" did, but the 40" did not. I wonder if that is a contributing factor to the shipped screen damages where the box looks great.

On my 48" there was no foam in front of the screen, just bottom and top.
 
Oh I'm not dropping $23K on a set, lol. I'm just asking is if POS crappy 120hz PWM dimming is what they put in their $23K sets, lol.

No, I've got a $5K TV budget - which means a Sharp UH30 80" (need bigger than 70".)

The bigger size sets are usually identical in specs so most likely.

I also think 4K OLED will be somewhat affordable by next year, but probably not in 75+ size. I expect the 55" and 65" to drop to around $2K and $5K respectively.
 
The bigger size sets are usually identical in specs so most likely.

I also think 4K OLED will be somewhat affordable by next year, but probably not in 75+ size. I expect the 55" and 65" to drop to around $2K and $5K respectively.

It will be a LONG time (if ever) OLED is affordable ($5K-ish) in an ~80" size) Life's short and I don't do small TVs, that means big edge-lit LCDs for me, lol.
 
I also think 4K OLED will be somewhat affordable by next year, but probably not in 75+ size. I expect the 55" and 65" to drop to around $2K and $5K respectively.

And by that time decent edge-lit 4k units will be $750 and $1500, and OLED sets won't be worth that premium.

You'll never go OLED, no one will ever go OLED, OLED is a mythical unicorn that we nerds keep saying "next year" about.

There is no next year.

Buy today, enjoy today, worry about tomorrow....tomorrow. :D

It will be a LONG time (if ever) OLED is affordable ($5K-ish) in an ~80" size) Life's short and I don't do small TVs, that means big edge-lit LCDs for me, lol.

This.
 
For those that have gotten the 40" 6700, did the packing material include a styrofoam piece in front of the screen? My 48" did, but the 40" did not. I wonder if that is a contributing factor to the shipped screen damages where the box looks great.

Exact same experience here with my 48" & 40".
 
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