New Samsung 4k for everyone.

I'm in the same boat with the second GPU...I know I'm going to need it, it's only a matter of time. Trying to hold off the massive temptation Brahmzy and the others are providing for swapping the 6700 for a 7500 because of the $450 I can then put towards another Titan lol...

Another Titan X? I'm still waiting on purchasing my first one. I have 3 (original) Titans. No way am I going to spend 3k on GPUs again. I'm waiting on the 390x or 980ti before I upgrade.
 
Another Titan X? I'm still waiting on purchasing my first one. I have 3 (original) Titans. No way am I going to spend 3k on GPUs again. I'm waiting on the 390x or 980ti before I upgrade.

Agree, I've had Tri-SLI a couple different times, 280 and 580, and swear I'll never do it again.

Agent00F's "diminishing returns" thought has never been more apparent than with the fps boost from that third GPU.

Instead of say a perfect 3.0x boost in an ideal fantasy world you're sitting there at 2.25x the framerate that the original single card can do alone.

Quick math means you only picked up say 50%, or half of what the third card is able to do alone, from adding it to the trio. Sucks.

Quad is even worse, usually 2.5x to 3.0x tops, from four goddamned cards! All those kilowatts wasted...sigh, like I said, never again.

Just vanilla dual SLI comes in right around 1.75-1.8x, or even a little higher as its pretty good these days, so a second card is something I still like to run. But now I'm thinking about adding one of those feisty Samsung SM951 M.2 SSD gumsticks to the system...Christ it never ends. :p
 
IMO it's a bit crazier that people pay several fold more for GPUs with marginally better realism at best in sharpness or detail yet opt to instead reduce realistic motion blur (ie. increase animation jerkiness).

I'm still not sure how I feel about this whole blur thing that you're arguing for. Yes, devs sometimes incorporate it intentionally and it can be effective when done right, but not everything is supposed to blur. Motion blur after you activate the nitrous oxide in a car in Need for Speed or after you hit the afterburners in a jet in an aircraft combat sim is reasonable. But motion blur on every moving surface in the game (as is caused by slower LCD panels) is not.

In real life, if I'm riding at 100mph on my motorcycle, sure I expect the dashed lines in the middle of the road to blur together. But if I just walk past a tree or a telephone pole, they do not blur or leave a trailing image. If I'm walking on a gravel road, it doesn't blur either. All of these things will blur in a game if the panel isn't fast enough, and it takes away from the experience a bit. In fact, it reminds you that you are playing a game, which is the opposite of what you're claiming. I don't see motion blur in a game and proclaim "Boy, gee whiz this feels just like real life!" It's more like "Meh...oh yeah, I'm playing on an LCD screen. Too bad that blur is there."

You may be the only person that I've ever seen on these forums that says blur is desirable. I've owned a 120Hz TN and I know how nice the gameplay experience is when things DON'T blur. Other people realize this too, and that's why there has generally been the push towards faster panels over the years...because no one wants to play a game that feels like the screen is covered in molasses. That's why CRTs and plasmas are so heavily favored by some who resisted the transition to LCD.
 
That is a point I just noticed. I thought both panels were glossy, but the 6000 series is semi-gloss. They were chat reps. At first I figured since the rep knew what I was talking about, they had good information... but obviously that wasn't the case.

Glossy is a huge deal, and wins every time in my eyes. This may be worth the extra price tag alone. I am tempted right now to buy the 7500 and try them side-by-side. Better color, clarity, contrast, and motion blur may make it all worth it. But the question is, how much are they different... if it is negligible, then perhaps not so.

imyourzero, are you receiving your 7500 on Thursday? Please please please, do a great comparison! Image quality is most important, with motion blur being second (in my opinion). I can't wait to see your findings :D.

EDIT: Cyph, Brahmzy, imyourzero, are any of you able to do comparisons of the motion blur with both screen either duplicated and taking a picture, or run the UFO blur tests and compare pictures of each display individually?

I'm not sure yet when it will be here. My 6700 arrived via normal UPS, but I found out that the 7500 is shipping via freight, which sucks if I decide to return it because they don't provide the $10 shipping label for items that ship via freight and so it will cost much more to send back. Why the 48" 6700 shipped regular UPS and the 7500 didn't, I have no clue.

But I will definitely be putting the 7500 through some scrutiny when it arrives. Is it better? If so, how much? Is it $450 better? Can I feel good knowing that I made the best reasonable choice with the 6700 the first time around, or will I be spoiled by the 7500 and now unable to go back?

But I agree with Cyph...ideally you'll want to try both for yourself no matter what I or anyone else says. I was like you early in the thread, in that I thought the 7500 would only be worth it for TV use and that for PC use there would be little or no difference. But after the 7500 series owners all said that it was superior, that seed was planted in my mind and kept growing. I had to find out for myself. One thing that I noticed was that Brahmzy was going to send his 7500 back due to his sensitivity to PWM, but ended up being so impressed by it that he took its virginity by taking the plastic off of the bezels. :D And also, most everyone who proclaimed that the 7500 wasn't worth it did not own it or did not get to use it for any length of time. So there's that. I can say that the BMW 335i isn't worth the extra price over a 325i, but does that statement have merit if I've never driven anything besides my 325i?

So I will try to provide the thread with any further insight between the two if it's wanted, but I really think that you should try them both if possible. For me, it was the only way to know for sure, even if it ends up costing me a bit of coin to test drive them all.
 
Hey guys question on calibration ñ

1. Have any of you calibrated your Models? If so I got the 9000 and am trying to figure out how to optimise it.

2. Is there a difference with HDMI 2.0 cables. The guys at the store tried selling me on 300+$ cables saying I needed it for hdmi 2.0 which makes 0 sense. How do you test if one cable is better?

Or if someone could please link good hdmi 2.0 cables that don't cost like a new car, hate those sales reps.
 
I read that with DX12 multiple gpus will no longer be processing the same data at any given time, but will work more like a single card.
Today,if you have two 4Gb cards, you essentially don't get the usable 8Gb, but only 4Gb, since they are both mirroring their workload.

But DX12 will apparently change that, so two 4Gb cards will truly mean 8Gb..

So those of you who are concerned about the amount of VRAM, there will soon be no need for that.. Even two GTX 970/980 or two upcoming 380x cards should do wonders with DX12 games in 4k..

If that's true, it will be an absolutely groundbreaking feature.

Like Mako said, I'm not going to get too hyped up about it yet, and even if it does happen there could be some kinks to work out. But even the mere promise of this is enough to be exciting, and those of us with 4GB cards could remain viable for a lot longer than the VRAM doomsayers are predicting.
 
Hey guys question on calibration ñ

1. Have any of you calibrated your Models? If so I got the 9000 and am trying to figure out how to optimise it.

2. Is there a difference with HDMI 2.0 cables. The guys at the store tried selling me on 300+$ cables saying I needed it for hdmi 2.0 which makes 0 sense. How do you test if one cable is better?

Or if someone could please link good hdmi 2.0 cables that don't cost like a new car, hate those sales reps.

I did but I used a Spyder3 Elite, so it's only going to be good under windows. It won't work for TV. Also I can't figure out where the color profiles are stored. Plus I am using a Titan which only supports 4:2:0 @ 60Hz anyways. But it does look much better to my eyes on my 6700.
 
Agree, I've had Tri-SLI a couple different times, 280 and 580, and swear I'll never do it again.

Agent00F's "diminishing returns" thought has never been more apparent than with the fps boost from that third GPU.

Instead of say a perfect 3.0x boost in an ideal fantasy world you're sitting there at 2.25x the framerate that the original single card can do alone.

Quick math means you only picked up say 50%, or half of what the third card is able to do alone, from adding it to the trio. Sucks.

Quad is even worse, usually 2.5x to 3.0x tops, from four goddamned cards! All those kilowatts wasted...sigh, like I said, never again.

Just vanilla dual SLI comes in right around 1.75-1.8x, or even a little higher as its pretty good these days, so a second card is something I still like to run. But now I'm thinking about adding one of those feisty Samsung SM951 M.2 SSD gumsticks to the system...Christ it never ends. :p


It also applies to rendering quality. Going from 100 to 1k polygons/texture/what-have-you per character does a lot, going from 1k to 10k much less so; and going beyond won't do much at all.

Unfortunately what it takes to really make things look good at the next level isn't sold in a box because it requires fundamental improvements to the underlying engine instead of "more" of something.

To make things worse, a lot of engine development has also plateaued. DX12 has some pretty neat features, but the point there is you'll have to buy new hardware to take advantage of it anyway.
 
Hey guys question on calibration ñ

1. Have any of you calibrated your Models? If so I got the 9000 and am trying to figure out how to optimise it.

2. Is there a difference with HDMI 2.0 cables. The guys at the store tried selling me on 300+$ cables saying I needed it for hdmi 2.0 which makes 0 sense. How do you test if one cable is better?

Or if someone could please link good hdmi 2.0 cables that don't cost like a new car, hate those sales reps.

Here you go. I just saved you $300.

Edit: You probably have a spare 6ft HDMI cable lying around. Try it first.
 
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Hey guys question on calibration ñ

1. Have any of you calibrated your Models? If so I got the 9000 and am trying to figure out how to optimise it.

2. Is there a difference with HDMI 2.0 cables. The guys at the store tried selling me on 300+$ cables saying I needed it for hdmi 2.0 which makes 0 sense. How do you test if one cable is better?

Or if someone could please link good hdmi 2.0 cables that don't cost like a new car, hate those sales reps.

The Amazon Basic ones will work fine below 10ft. Technically there are no "HDMI 2.0" cables, cable manufactures aren't even supposed to advertise as such, anything that supports 1.4 will work...
 
I'm still not sure how I feel about this whole blur thing that you're arguing for. Yes, devs sometimes incorporate it intentionally and it can be effective when done right, but not everything is supposed to blur. Motion blur after you activate the nitrous oxide in a car in Need for Speed or after you hit the afterburners in a jet in an aircraft combat sim is reasonable. But motion blur on every moving surface in the game (as is caused by slower LCD panels) is not.

In real life, if I'm riding at 100mph on my motorcycle, sure I expect the dashed lines in the middle of the road to blur together. But if I just walk past a tree or a telephone pole, they do not blur or leave a trailing image. If I'm walking on a gravel road, it doesn't blur either. All of these things will blur in a game if the panel isn't fast enough, and it takes away from the experience a bit. In fact, it reminds you that you are playing a game, which is the opposite of what you're claiming. I don't see motion blur in a game and proclaim "Boy, gee whiz this feels just like real life!" It's more like "Meh...oh yeah, I'm playing on an LCD screen. Too bad that blur is there."

You may be the only person that I've ever seen on these forums that says blur is desirable. I've owned a 120Hz TN and I know how nice the gameplay experience is when things DON'T blur. Other people realize this too, and that's why there has generally been the push towards faster panels over the years...because no one wants to play a game that feels like the screen is covered in molasses. That's why CRTs and plasmas are so heavily favored by some who resisted the transition to LCD.


As mentioned before its realism depends on the type of game, or more precisely the camera angle shown. For a FPS type camera where you eyes focus more or less near the middle any incidental motion blur from the display correlates to real blur. For a Pacman style camera the moving items focused on shouldn't be blurred. This latter type is what that blurbuster site fixates on, even if the author isn't exactly quick to reveal this. The amount of blur on the 6700 is visible from the rtings.com test (the short darker smudge to the left of the CG letters) certainly isn't much, and if anything low for the amount of motion implied.

Also as mentioned the reason why ub3r l33t g4m3rs prefer less realism in this sense is because there's a small advantage to a more clear instead of naturally blurred target or whatever. If you 360 no scope IRL as quickly as can be done in games the resulting view wouldn't be so flawless. The corresponding unnatural jerky over-sharp animation effect is an inherent flaw of the CG source (and faithfuly displayed on CRT), and just because some people prefer it doesn't mean it's realistic.
 
I'm not sure yet when it will be here. My 6700 arrived via normal UPS, but I found out that the 7500 is shipping via freight, which sucks if I decide to return it because they don't provide the $10 shipping label for items that ship via freight and so it will cost much more to send back. Why the 48" 6700 shipped regular UPS and the 7500 didn't, I have no clue.

But I will definitely be putting the 7500 through some scrutiny when it arrives. Is it better? If so, how much? Is it $450 better? Can I feel good knowing that I made the best reasonable choice with the 6700 the first time around, or will I be spoiled by the 7500 and now unable to go back?

But I agree with Cyph...ideally you'll want to try both for yourself no matter what I or anyone else says. I was like you early in the thread, in that I thought the 7500 would only be worth it for TV use and that for PC use there would be little or no difference. But after the 7500 series owners all said that it was superior, that seed was planted in my mind and kept growing. I had to find out for myself. One thing that I noticed was that Brahmzy was going to send his 7500 back due to his sensitivity to PWM, but ended up being so impressed by it that he took its virginity by taking the plastic off of the bezels. :D And also, most everyone who proclaimed that the 7500 wasn't worth it did not own it or did not get to use it for any length of time. So there's that. I can say that the BMW 335i isn't worth the extra price over a 325i, but does that statement have merit if I've never driven anything besides my 325i?

So I will try to provide the thread with any further insight between the two if it's wanted, but I really think that you should try them both if possible. For me, it was the only way to know for sure, even if it ends up costing me a bit of coin to test drive them all.

The more I think about it, the more I want to try them both... which is why I ordered them both. Should be here Friday. Wish I had my tripod for my camera (only going to use my Note 4 and with a macro lens, but still can be pretty decent), but maybe I can work something up for steady motion shots and such. I'm tempted to just say screw the 6700 because I know the glossy panel is going to be better... but again, the semi-gloss is nothing like a monitor from what I can tell, so maybe it's not bad at all and not worth the $450. I think my bigger dilemma is deciding between 40" and 48". I'd be sitting fairly close with the desk I have now, but that could change later. Plus when I get another display later on, this one would goto TV duty and 48" would be much better.

If that's true, it will be an absolutely groundbreaking feature.

Like Mako said, I'm not going to get too hyped up about it yet, and even if it does happen there could be some kinks to work out. But even the mere promise of this is enough to be exciting, and those of us with 4GB cards could remain viable for a lot longer than the VRAM doomsayers are predicting.

The game developers have to work that in as well. I just don't see it being widely support, especially not at first, so don't bank on it too much.

Here you go. I just saved you $300.

Edit: You probably have a spare 6ft HDMI cable lying around. Try it first.

Dang, wish I'd have known that. Just ordered two cables on Amazon for a great price, and they look solidly built. I might need the 10 footer, but I grabbed a 6 just in case I don't... always feel like it's better to have less cable than more.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI8A1NW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Hey guys question on calibration ñ

1. Have any of you calibrated your Models? If so I got the 9000 and am trying to figure out how to optimise it.

2. Is there a difference with HDMI 2.0 cables. The guys at the store tried selling me on 300+$ cables saying I needed it for hdmi 2.0 which makes 0 sense. How do you test if one cable is better?

Or if someone could please link good hdmi 2.0 cables that don't cost like a new car, hate those sales reps.

Go back to the guy and offer him a challenge.
Tell him that if there is a tangible difference between cheap and expensive cables on a demo with standard equipment, that can be photographed and compared, you will buy one.
But if there isnt, choose his poison pill.

ie
forfeit the cable for free
pay you $300
...

See if he will stand up for his pitch :p

ps you dont need to go through with it, just see his reaction.
 
You don't need imyourzero, or anyone else, to do anything. It's already been done in the thread by 7500 owners who have returned their 6700s and are happy.

You know you're a display elitist, you prefer perfection over slop, and every little thing has to be exactly right or you're not happy...fair to say no? So why screw with the 6700 knowing this?

The 6700s are slop?

Maximum Innuendo
 
Man, something happened to my Samsung JU6500. Not sure what, how or when but my mouse has a slight laggy spongy feel.

To make sure I wasn't going crazy I hooked up my old 1080p display and my mouse was very smooth, tight and crisp. Initially and up until the 1207 firmware, my mouse was smooth and crisp. I can't say for sure what happened but it's driving me crazy.

I tried to reset the set but it's asking for a pin. I never set a pin number so not sure what that's about.

And yes I checked that I'm 60hz and that all of the settings are correct for PC and Game Mode as per the advice of this thread.

I'm going to pack it back up and return it to Microcenter in the next few days.
 
The 6700s are slop?

To him it will be. But for me sloppy joes are fine dining! :D

Like Brahmzy said, what you don't know can't hurt you, as long as you never take a bite of that filet mignon your ground chuck tastes like heaven haha, which is definitely my situation coming off the horrid (for gaming) Dell 3008 and Sharp's low-end 2011-2012 3D 1080p televisions.

The blur on the 6700 is actually reduced versus what I was using prior lol.

Man, something happened to my Samsung JU6500. Not sure what, how or when but my mouse has a slight laggy spongy feel.

To make sure I wasn't going crazy I hooked up my old 1080p display and my mouse was very smooth, tight and crisp. Initially and up until the 1207 firmware, my mouse was smooth and crisp. I can't say for sure what happened but it's driving me crazy.

I tried to reset the set but it's asking for a pin. I never set a pin number so not sure what that's about.

And yes I checked that I'm 60hz and that all of the settings are correct for PC and Game Mode as per the advice of this thread.

I'm going to pack it back up and return it to Microcenter in the next few days.

Tough break SFD, sorry to hear it. Glad it's still in the 30 day return timeframe though, can get it solved quickly.
 
After hours of looking and debate, I pretty much sold myself on the 7xxx over the 6xxx... but now I'm beginning to question if the curve is worth a $200 premium.

In the 6xxx series, the curved model was actually brighter with better contrast. Wonder if this will be true with the 7xxx series. The 7500 also has two woofers accompanying the speakers unlike the 7100, for those who care.
 
After hours of looking and debate, I pretty much sold myself on the 7xxx over the 6xxx... but now I'm beginning to question if the curve is worth a $200 premium.

In the 6xxx series, the curved model was actually brighter with better contrast. Wonder if this will be true with the 7xxx series. The 7500 also has two woofers accompanying the speakers unlike the 7100, for those who care.

I think others have said it best on the curve, agree with them as a 6700 owner, basically it depends on view distance.

If you're at 36" or less from the screen, and the 48" is what you're thinking about, I would say go for it. It does add a little bit to the experience with that width. I never tried the 40", but I don't think at that same distance it would be worth it on the smaller model. Seems like it wouldn't be wide enough to matter unless you were on top of it at a sub-24" view distance or something.

But if you're putting the 48" model four feet away or something on a large desk or a wall, I'm not sure you're going to get anything out of it in that scenario either.

I'm now using my 48" at a 30" view distance and it's a nice sweet spot for the curve. Originally I had it 36" away, and as the days passed I moved it closer as I got used to its dimensions.

SixFootDuo had a 48" curved and then got a better deal on a flat 50" and returned it and seemingly hasn't regretted it.

Also the curved models are thicker of course, not as cosmetically pleasing on the wall if you ever decide to put one there.

Overall I'd say it's worth that premium, but only if you're planning on sitting close to it.
 
So I just got my 40JU6500 setup:

It is enorrmous. Then again I'm about 2' away.

Took me some deciphering because I forgot all the details to get 60FPS 444 going; forgot to change to PC mode, then to enable 60hz 3840x2160 on the computer. Was getting pure red sparkles on black for a bit.

Now it's up and running but I think cable quality is bad, as I'm getting full image but lots of red sparkles on black (and cyan on white, but I can't see that as well.) I'm assuming it's cable quality as the 30hz options do not have this.

I wanted to know though, re calibration, what the optimal sharpness settings are? I turned it from 50 to 0 out of instinct; I assumed that 0 would be "natural" and that 50 would introduce sharpening artifacts but I'm gathering from some old posts that 50 is "natural" and then 0 is...??? intentional blurring?

Also noticing most color settings are greyed out now. Is that unique to PC mode?
 
Could you pls. explain how to activate Game Mode with the PC?
I specified PC as device connected to HDMI2 of my JU7100 but Game Mode is greyed out...

Thanks
M_C
 
Could you pls. explain how to activate Game Mode with the PC?
I specified PC as device connected to HDMI2 of my JU7100 but Game Mode is greyed out...

Thanks
M_C

You cant enable game mode when the input is labeled pc. If you would like to try game mode, first make sure your on 1207 firmware then go to general settings and choose game mode on . Then go back to picture settings and turn off smart led and dynamic contrast and turn sharpness to 0.

So I just got my 40JU6500 setup:

It is enorrmous. Then again I'm about 2' away.

Took me some deciphering because I forgot all the details to get 60FPS 444 going; forgot to change to PC mode, then to enable 60hz 3840x2160 on the computer. Was getting pure red sparkles on black for a bit.

Now it's up and running but I think cable quality is bad, as I'm getting full image but lots of red sparkles on black (and cyan on white, but I can't see that as well.) I'm assuming it's cable quality as the 30hz options do not have this.

I wanted to know though, re calibration, what the optimal sharpness settings are? I turned it from 50 to 0 out of instinct; I assumed that 0 would be "natural" and that 50 would introduce sharpening artifacts but I'm gathering from some old posts that 50 is "natural" and then 0 is...??? intentional blurring?

Also noticing most color settings are greyed out now. Is that unique to PC mode?

Pc mode the sharpness should be 50.Below 50 actually artificially softens the picture, 0 in game mode is 50 in pc mode.

Man, something happened to my Samsung JU6500. Not sure what, how or when but my mouse has a slight laggy spongy feel.

To make sure I wasn't going crazy I hooked up my old 1080p display and my mouse was very smooth, tight and crisp. Initially and up until the 1207 firmware, my mouse was smooth and crisp. I can't say for sure what happened but it's driving me crazy.

I tried to reset the set but it's asking for a pin. I never set a pin number so not sure what that's about.

And yes I checked that I'm 60hz and that all of the settings are correct for PC and Game Mode as per the advice of this thread.

I'm going to pack it back up and return it to Microcenter in the next few days.


Use pin number 0 0 0 0 . This will reset the tv, make sure if your using game mode that smart led and dynamic contrast are off, those add alot of lag to the picture according to my leo bodnar.
 
Hey guys question on calibration ñ

1. Have any of you calibrated your Models? If so I got the 9000 and am trying to figure out how to optimise it.

2. Is there a difference with HDMI 2.0 cables. The guys at the store tried selling me on 300+$ cables saying I needed it for hdmi 2.0 which makes 0 sense. How do you test if one cable is better?

Or if someone could please link good hdmi 2.0 cables that don't cost like a new car, hate those sales reps.

You need a cable that can handle the bandwidth requirements for HDMI 2.0. Nothing more.

Could you pls. explain how to activate Game Mode with the PC?
I specified PC as device connected to HDMI2 of my JU7100 but Game Mode is greyed out...

Thanks
M_C

You cannot activate game mode while the device input is configured as "PC." You have to change the input type to something else. In which case you can enable game mode. Unfortunaely your display may or may not handle 4:4:4 chroma subsampling while in game mode. Some users report firmware 1206 and 1207 allow for it but not all of us have had that experience. On my JU6700 I can't enable UHD (4:4:4 chroma) while in game mode. The menus allow it but the image tests confirm it doesn't actually work.
 
It has been confirmed FW 1207 allows for 4:2:2 in Game mode, not 4:4:4. However, initially, it's tough to tell the difference. I do know all settings being equal, Game mode is slightly darker, and slightly more saturated, color wise. Text is very clear though.
 
Yes, ghosting. Perhaps the word that I should have been using all along. I think it's a more accurate term than blur, since it's less of a smearing effect and more like you can see a trailing "ghost" of an object when you quickly move past it. This is probably not a big deal for RTS/strategy games but for action/adventure or FPS it's easy to see the effect.

I played some more on my 6700 last night and was definitely able to reproduce it. It's kind of funny, because it was something that I didn't really notice until we started talking about it. One of those things that when you look for it, it's there. I could probably tone it out by ignoring it, but it's kind of hard to unsee now that I've seen it.

The good news is that it doesn't seem to affect everything. In third person games, for example, if I make my character run straight ahead, there's no ghosting in the environment in front of me (presumably because it's moving more slowly). But if I pan the camera 90* so that I'm looking at my character from the side, and I run past an object in the game world, it definitely leaves a trailing image which is especially evident on certain color transitions (like when running past a light colored object against a dark background).

I'll try to get a couple of photos or a video tonight and see how well I can capture the effect. I don't want to call too much more attention to it, as it won't be a big deal for some, but for anyone deciding between 6xxx and 7xxx they can at least see if the ghosting on the 6xxx will be acceptable to them.
 
Last edited:
So for PC is better PC Mode with UDH enabled but for PS4 do I have to enable UHD setting without Game Mode or is better to leave it in Game Mode?
 
Ok. Just to be clear on my own UN40JU6500. This is the status.

Device Type - PC - Firmware 1206 (I have no image for it, but 1207 looks the same)

http://i.imgur.com/DfSOYlx.jpg

Device Type - Game - Firmware 1206

http://i.imgur.com/d0f3nPJ.jpg

Device Type = Game - Firmware 1207

http://i.imgur.com/8SpSKxh.jpg

I do notice ghosting in one or two games, but a $400 jump is not worth it for me.

I'll have to check and compare when I get home. I could swear mine was clearer than that. It could be my mind playing tricks.

So for PC is better PC Mode with UDH enabled but for PS4 do I have to enable UHD setting without Game Mode or is better to leave it in Game Mode?

PS4 doesn't support 444. Don't worry about it. Only PC's support it. Bluray, Xbox, PS4, nada.

Yes, ghosting. Perhaps the word that I should have been using all along. I think it's a more accurate term than blur, since it's less of a smearing effect and more like you can see a trailing "ghost" of an object when you quickly move past it. This is probably not a big deal for RTS/strategy games but for action/adventure or FPS it's easy to see the effect.

You see it in RTS/strategy. Starcraft was the game I noticed it on. With RTS, you have to quickly pan the screen back and forth. It's a doozy.
 
I can see it in just about everything. [H] forums scrolling too. Anytime you've got an extreme contrast like white text on a black background, dark trees against a bight sky etc. there's ghosting.
Others don't see it at all, and others see it and don't care, and others like myself can spot it instantly and are driven half insane by it. And others call it natural and 'realistic' blurring, LOL.
 
Ya know, after I ordered the JU7500 I was kind of like "Ugh, what did I do?" because I was content with the 6700. But the more I read about it, the more excited I am. The fact that it'll presumably reduce ghosting is only one benefit (albeit the main one).

I just hope that A) it doesn't arrive broken and B) Samsung doesn't screw these up with firmware updates. I too am somewhat concerned that they'll break features or increase lag. I really have to wonder what happened with SixFootDuo's unit...
 
Depending on the lighting in your room, you may find, like I did, the full gloss panel of the 7500 to be a HUGE benefit. I actually would prefer a quality matte finish, but the full gloss is the next best thing because the 6700's semi-gloss finish really just reflected a huge amount of ambient light across the entire screen, for me. I've got a bright maple-colored desk and that thing would reflect bigtime into the 6700 - don't even see it in the 7500. Weird.
 
Plus the bullet point about being able to mix/match different card models in SLI or Crossfire...or even between different vendors (yeah right, Nvidia would probably install firmware code that requires a $99 unlock fee just to add an old AMD card haha).

DX12 is exciting, but the old guys on the board have been through DirectX launch PR campaigns all the way back to...DX7? Was that the first "go to the press and hype" DirectX release where MS's marketing department finally thought to promote these?

I can't remember, but with every DX generation they promise the moon and we're left a bit underwhelmed. Maybe this time it's different, very much hope so, good stuff.

That could also be the reason why AMD seems to be actually pursuing a higher 395X model with just 8GB total for the Fall (dual Fiji GPU on one PCB, with just 4GB framebuffer VRAM for each GPU) because they know the stackable vram concept actually works and that $1250-$1500 card will have longer legs than it would seem today (meaning no one would ever spend that much on a 4GB card without stackable vram).

But who knows, hard to call all this as early as it is.

For me I believe that a pair of used Titan Xs will resell a bit higher than a pair of 980 Ti cards a few years from now so the net loss of paying a premium for Titan X now and enjoying the perks it brings isn't as bad as the $500 loss it appears to be at the cash register. Might lose say $250 total on both cards when all is said and done, possibly even less...which over that much time is nothing amortized.

Fun to speculate though.

The main problem is that DirectX may deliver on the features but game companies don't implement them due to either their complexity, the long development cycle of games now or the performance hit the feature may cause. They do build these games to the lowest common denominator.
 
To him it will be. But for me sloppy joes are fine dining! :D

Like Brahmzy said, what you don't know can't hurt you, as long as you never take a bite of that filet mignon your ground chuck tastes like heaven haha,

Yeah, but the difference between the two meats is not $450.
I'll come back when the blur/ghosting convo calms down. Hopefully by post 2500.
 
Yeah, but the difference between the two meats is not $450.
I'll come back when the blur/ghosting convo calms down. Hopefully by post 2500.

I think the discussion is good. Better that buyers have more information than less about possible drawbacks.

For people still on the fence about this monitor, consider that you are looking for a good 4k monitor in the $750-$1000 price range. There will be compromises this early in the tech life-cycle. You have to decide what would be a deal breaker for you. After using this for a week now, I personally think that the JU6500 40" is a great value. And considering the experience I had with trying to find post-warranty support for my rather more expensive U3011, I am never spending that much for a monitor again.
 
Ya know, after I ordered the JU7500 I was kind of like "Ugh, what did I do?" because I was content with the 6700. But the more I read about it, the more excited I am. The fact that it'll presumably reduce ghosting is only one benefit (albeit the main one).

I just hope that A) it doesn't arrive broken and B) Samsung doesn't screw these up with firmware updates. I too am somewhat concerned that they'll break features or increase lag. I really have to wonder what happened with SixFootDuo's unit...

I have already purchased and returned a 6700 and I am waiting anxiously for your perceptions of the 7500. I had a nearly identical experience with my 6700, at first I didn't notice the ghosting, likely because I was still in awe of the size and still picture clarity. Once I recognized it, I couldn't get past the effect. I can't find a local vendor with the 7500 in stock or I would try it myself.
 
How do you set the desktop at 2160p? I tried 100% with my 55JU7100 but everything is too small!!! Instead, if you zoom in 150% or more it seems that games are zoomed in too...
 
I've still been reading about these displays for hours. I called Crutchfield earlier today and cancelled the 6700 order before it got sent out. My 7500 will be here Friday.

If I'm not blown away by the 7500, I certainly won't be by the 6700. But I'm pretty sure the 7500 won't disappoint. Hopefully the 4:2:2 isn't a big deal, and I can tolerate the PC input lag. I'm still in a pickle debating the 40" vs 48" and curved vs flat. Though if I can handle the 48", curved is likely the only way to go. But I doubt when using it later as an actual television that curved will be the best way to go.

My BenQ monitor has pretty good response time, but the Acer B326HK I tried before it (same panel) was TERRIBLE. I can't find consistent review times, but Tomshardware claims the BenQ has a pixel response time (full BtW) of 23ms and absolute lag (input + full transition BtW) of 64 ms. I think the BenQ is perfect, and it refreshes just as fast as my Catleap and 4K TN Acer G-Sync seem to according to the Blurbusters frame skip test. I plan on duplicating the screens of my BenQ, Acer TN, and Samsung 7500 with the same test running. I hope that there is no additional latency caused by using multiple ports, or DP and HDMI together. If there is, that test is useless... but I can try to do some blur comparisons as well as color. I'll notice the input lag for sure if it's worse than my other displays though.

On another note, does anyone know for certain if the 7xxx are edge or direct lit? This review http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/ue48ju7500-201504074038.htm seems to think the 7500 is direct lit from its superb uniformity. That would be great... Maybe Samsung just claims edge-lit to push more enthusiasts towards the higher end displays?
 
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Eh, that stinks as I was hoping you could aid me in some comparos but it's understandable that you want to avoid the hassle of returning it. :) I only have an iPhone 6 and will do the best I can, but the more equipment we can capture results on, the better.
 
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