NCASE M1 version changelog and suggestions thread

Yeah i know. But if the pins are welded, anodizing could looks bad on that area. Thats why i had that question ;)
 
ipuoL said:
Yeah i know. But if the pins are welded, anodizing could looks bad on that area. Thats why i had that question ;)
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That's not in anything you asked. Explain what you mean by looking bad. Can you tell it's welded? Yes. Is it a differen't color? No.

But I don't know why anyone would care what it looked like. It could be neon pink for all it really matters because it's not visible when using the case and is only visible for the short moments you have a panel pulled off.
 
I think you do not understand which pins i mean. I mean the pins on the sidepanels. When you are anodizing the sidepanels, the whole panel have to be put in the fluid. If you pull it out you will see different colors in the welded area of the pins. Thats why you could see it on the outside of the panel all the time the case stands on you table.

Hopefully you understand what i mean. After your last post I suggest you thing i mean the pinholder in the frame or so?!
 
ipuoL said:
I think you do not understand which pins i mean. I mean the pins on the sidepanels. When you are anodizing the sidepanels, the whole panel have to be put in the fluid. If you pull it out you will see different colors in the welded area of the pins. Thats why you could see it on the outside of the panel all the time the case stands on you table.

Hopefully you understand what i mean. After your last post I suggest you thing i mean the pinholder in the frame or so?!
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I know what you are talking about. I don't know what your asking. In fact you still haven't asked a real question since you asked if the sides were being anodized (or could be). As I answered about the anodizing seems to be run after the pins are welded on the sides as there is not a real visible change in color between the pins, the weld area, and the panels themselves. My point was why would it matter at all as those are always hidden (because they are pins that go into a socket on the inside)?

Though rereading this last point I am thinking that you are asking about the front side of the panel having it's color change because of the welding. Again I would suggest that the anodizing happens after the welding because if that was normal (the color change) then it doesn't happen here. Honestly that should be apparent that it isn't the case from all the shots of peoples systems here and the fact that this is all being done by Lian Li, the masters of Aluminum case construction. With Necere digging through every process of theirs to get us the best case possible. There is an elegance to this case that would be destroyed by multiple shades on the exterior. People here wouldn't be so happy with it.
 
It would be great if the extra 3.5 HDD bracket can be brought, so I can fit 4x 3.5 sized Hard drives on to the side for my RAID 5.
Also I'm planning to put 2.5 SSD in RAID 1 in the front of the case.

I'm making an max redundancy build because the computer will be stored in a Salt mine for about 500-1000 years
 
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Tankerton said:
:confused: RAID 5 isn't really recommended by anyone these days.
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There is no other alternative that combines redundancy with capacity. Archival space is limited so I need it all to fit inside the Small NCASE enclosure. The failure of the mechanical disks are accounted for, the hope is future technology (500-1000 years) may still able to retrieve data from the Magnetic disks or SSDs.
 
FaDBh#R3Uu7La said:
the hope is future technology (500-1000 years) may still able to retrieve data from the Magnetic disks or SSDs.
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Just wondering.. what data are you archiving on the M1 in a salt mine for 1000 years?

And how will you even know if it's still preserved past the year 2100? :eek:

Heck, I feel lucky if I can get a mechanical drive to last longer than a decade, let alone hundreds of years :D
 
I still think a handle would be the neatest 'improvement/suggestion.' I read that it would be too much trouble but what about the Lian Li TU-200? I read reviews on that case and the handle was not one of the issues. In fact, it was very popular with owners/buyers.

I noticed on one site, someone putting a handle on a SG05, I think? Can't recall which case but I think the M1 is light enough to have one. But, I guess if custom water coolers and other complex parts are going into it? I dunno... just seemed like a good practical bonus but it must create more problems. It just seemed like the TU-200 was a similar size/foot print.
 
Isn't a handle basically impossible since you just pull the panels off or the handle would have to be at the back which wouldn't be the same IMO
 
I think Necere said this case isn't rigid enough and I agree. The M1 does seems to be a bit flimsy.
 
pavel said:
I still think a handle would be the neatest 'improvement/suggestion.' I read that it would be too much trouble but what about the Lian Li TU-200? I read reviews on that case and the handle was not one of the issues. In fact, it was very popular with owners/buyers.

I noticed on one site, someone putting a handle on a SG05, I think? Can't recall which case but I think the M1 is light enough to have one. But, I guess if custom water coolers and other complex parts are going into it? I dunno... just seemed like a good practical bonus but it must create more problems. It just seemed like the TU-200 was a similar size/foot print.
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I answered you directly last time you mentioned this:

Do you realise that the top panel of the M1 pops off? It's not fixed. If you attach a handle, and you pick up the case, then all that will happen is that you remove the top cover...

To lift the M1, you need something that holds it from underneath, like nylon straps or a carry bag.
 
If I would add a suggestion, a slightly more minimalistic radiator/fan mount/bracket. Some narrow bars with screw holes are all that is required. It would open up more tubing routes with a rad like the EX240 and I feel that my currently planned out build would require less elbow grease if it could be done.
 
pavel said:
I still think a handle would be the neatest 'improvement/suggestion.' I read that it would be too much trouble but what about the Lian Li TU-200? I read reviews on that case and the handle was not one of the issues. In fact, it was very popular with owners/buyers.

I noticed on one site, someone putting a handle on a SG05, I think? Can't recall which case but I think the M1 is light enough to have one. But, I guess if custom water coolers and other complex parts are going into it? I dunno... just seemed like a good practical bonus but it must create more problems. It just seemed like the TU-200 was a similar size/foot print.
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The TU-200 has a reinforced unibody chassis. It's designed from the ground up to be carried from the top, and to be stronger in general for transporting.

In contrast, every exterior panel on the M1 is removable without tools. This makes it easier to work in, but at the cost of not having the same structural rigidity of a closed unibody design. That's not to say it doesn't feel rigid in the hands - it does, it just isn't designed to survive a lot of abuse (but why would you be doing that to your nice brushed aluminum case in the first place?).

Since the top panel is removable and the top support beams aren't intended for load bearing, there's no place for a handle to go.
 
Phuncz said:
http://www.frozencpu.com/han-08.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26829

$ 14,99, no need to completely redesign the Ncase for that.
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Although I haven't used these products specifically, I have a pair of straps and handles (which are functionally identical) that made it easy to carry a heavy, bulky Antec P180 around. I'd be confident in using one strap to carry anything you could put in the M1, so long as the chassis isn't terribly flimsy.
 
Phuncz said:
http://www.frozencpu.com/han-08.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=26829

$ 14,99, no need to completely redesign the Ncase for that.
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Looks like you can put on the strap before mounting the side panels for a nice "integrated" look. Anyone want to try that and post results? :)

Although I'd worry about the top frame support beams bowing in from the pressure exerted by the strap combined with the weight of the system.
 
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You should read Necere's reply a few posts up:

Necere said:
The TU-200 has a reinforced unibody chassis. It's designed from the ground up to be carried from the top, and to be stronger in general for transporting.

In contrast, every exterior panel on the M1 is removable without tools. This makes it easier to work in, but at the cost of not having the same structural rigidity of a closed unibody design. That's not to say it doesn't feel rigid in the hands - it does, it just isn't designed to survive a lot of abuse (but why would you be doing that to your nice brushed aluminum case in the first place?).

Since the top panel is removable and the top support beams aren't intended for load bearing, there's no place for a handle to go.
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I certainly did read Necere's post before.

I was not talking about having the top support beams (and/or top panel) bearing the entire weight of the system. Do you even understand what I was talking about?
 
vipz said:
I was not talking about having the top support beams (and/or top panel) bearing the entire weight of the system. Do you even understand what I was talking about?
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I thought it was a good idea, if doable. Use the straps that Phuncz posted, but put them on with everything installed but the side panels, then install the side panels last, over the straps. The GearGrip straps would only be visible running across the bottom and top, right?
 
vipz said:
I certainly did read Necere's post before.

I was not talking about having the top support beams (and/or top panel) bearing the entire weight of the system. Do you even understand what I was talking about?
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You don't need to get defensive but your own words are misleading:

vipz said:
Looks like you can put on the strap before mounting the side panels for a nice "integrated" look. Anyone want to try that and post results? :)

Although I'd worry about the top frame support beams bowing in from the pressure exerted by the strap combined with the weight of the system.
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Necere said:
Since the top panel is removable and the top support beams aren't intended for load bearing, there's no place for a handle to go.
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Either way, the straps would not fit without cutting the panels. I can just barely put my fingernail in between them and those straps are atleast 2mm thick. Since the panels would push the straps inward, exerting force on the handle would pop off the panels because the straps would be stretched.
 
Phuncz said:
You don't need to get defensive but your own words are misleading:
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I'm fine with being told that I'm not being clear, but when you accused me of not reading the post right above the one that I originally quoted, that's something else completely.

I'm not sure what exactly I wrote was misleading. You can explain better what you find misleading instead of just quoting me back because that doesn't help me understand either. I'm going to for now assume that something I said about the top support beams isn't quite clear.

Even with the strap installed outside the panels, there will be some amount force exerted on the top support beams when the case is lifted up by the strap. That's what I meant when I said "bowing in." Although the panels should help spread that force over a larger area.

Phuncz said:
Either way, the straps would not fit without cutting the panels. I can just barely put my fingernail in between them and those straps are atleast 2mm thick. Since the panels would push the straps inward, exerting force on the handle would pop off the panels because the straps would be stretched.
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That makes sense. Do you have any pictures showing where the buckles are located on the straps?
 
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As you can see it's not possible because the panel is hugging the sides, the strap is very thick, especially around the buckle area.
Buckle is around the center of the side bracket. If I put the buckle on the opposite side, there is even less space between the motherboard and the panel.
 
So.......... $90 for silver panels + shipping to spain. I suggest you write

IN SUPER HUGE VERY BIG LETTERS

How the things work together.

For instance, does the V1 top panel work with V2 front panel?
 
prava said:
So.......... $90 for silver panels + shipping to spain. I suggest you write

IN SUPER HUGE VERY BIG LETTERS

How the things work together.

For instance, does the V1 top panel work with V2 front panel?
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Yes, the V1 top and V2 front are compatible. The incompatibility noted on the site is the only one between all the different panel combinations.
 
i really wish the case frame was powder coated, saw so many picture of paint scratch and chip on the ncase really put me off. even so i still went ahead with the preorder. the case nearly perfect.
 
Perhaps you can find a local powdercoater who will do your panels for you?
 
I have yet to find a single scratch on mine, inside and outside. Treat it well and don't keep unused tools in your hands when working on it. I find it better than Lian Li's unpainted interiors, those scratch from looking at it the wrong way...
 
Just a heads up: we're changing the internal AC cable to a left-angle version, which will allow for compatibility with some ATX PSUs, including Seasonics (which previously had the problem described in this pic). This also means a few ATX PSUs that were compatible won't be anymore, but that's how it goes. The inlet orientation is actually part of the ATX PSU spec, and the left-angle plug is a more correct choice in that regard.

We'll be ordering extras of both types, as well, so if you need the other type we'll have them available.
 
Pretty important info. Be sure to communicate this, preferably with pictures, to all buyers to avoid issues post-delivery.
Won't this prohibit the use of the Silverstone SFX PSU's ? It's not clear from your post that both are included when I read that first part.
 
yea that's a big change. i really hope this doesn't mess up the silverstone sfx and wouldn't this make the ac cable management untidy for the sfx user? i think we need some pic
 
I plan on picking up one of SilverStone's new SFX PSUs (the one w/ the 120mm fan). I hope this change in internal AC cable doesn't make cable management more difficult w/ regards to that internal AC cable...
 
Phuncz said:
Won't this prohibit the use of the Silverstone SFX PSU's ? It's not clear from your post that both are included when I read that first part.
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zstormz said:
yea that's a big change. i really hope this doesn't mess up the silverstone sfx and wouldn't this make the ac cable management untidy for the sfx user? i think we need some pic
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Synomenon said:
I plan on picking up one of SilverStone's new SFX PSUs (the one w/ the 120mm fan). I hope this change in internal AC cable doesn't make cable management more difficult w/ regards to that internal AC cable...
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Changing to left-angle is better for the ST45SF-G with fan-inward and an ODD mounted, since it won't push against the ODD. OTOH, the older ST45SF will have pretty much the same issue, except when fan-outward.

As far as the upcoming units, if this pic is any indication, the 600W will be the same as the ST45SF-G so left-angle is also preferable. But then again all they've shown so far is what appears to be a ST45SF-G with the sticker for the 600W, so it's hard to say. If the inlet orientation is like the new Enhance units then left-angle will fit like right-angle does on the ST45SF-G, except when it's fan-out instead. There looks to be a little more clearance between the inlet and edge of the PSU though, so it should be a little better.

The 500W should be better off with the left-angle, at least in fan-out orientation. Right-angle looks like it wouldn't even fit in fan-out (and possibly fan-in). The inlet oriented across the PSU, rather than lengthwise, makes both right and left-angle problematic.

Honestly, it'd be nice if they could settle on something, or just put the inlet as close to the middle as possible (which I realize is easier said than done).
 
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What would be the perfect length for PSU cables? Would 300 or 500 mm be the perfect length for the 24x connector and GPU (I plan on getting the SFX PSU at a later date but want to pre-sleeve cables while I wait since that stuff takes time).

Cheers
 
Depends on where the 24-pin ATX connector is on your motherboard, doesn't it?
 
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