NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

You could also call it 'natural flowing' ;)

But I think looks are deceiving. If you look on at Cimator's other picture then you see that the wires and sleeving fit nicely in the space between MB, PSU and radiator.

It's hard to tell from just that picture because the fan seem to be obscuring a good amount of cabling.

I have never handled individually-sleeved PSU cables myself so my impression from the photos alone can be very wrong. However, from my experience with de-sleeving a factory-sleeved mouse cable, the sleeving does significantly alter the thickness of the cable. Hand-made cables appear to be to be even worse in that regard since it's near impossible to have the sleeving pulled 100% tight so it doesn't appear sloppy.

So yeah, not a fan of individually-sleeved cable here.

Personally I can't wait for the flat cable set from SS. It is about as minimalist as you can get and that appeals to me a lot more. I'm hoping it is thin enough to be routed and/or stowed between the mobo and the tray.
 
Love this case, would have gotten one for my HTPC if it weren't a half an inch too tall for the shelves on my TV stand.

Went with a Silverstone SG06 instead.
 
I'm starting to stress badly. I am in Brisbane (one days drive from Sydney) and the cases came into Sydney on like Monday and I still haven't gotten mine yet whereas the ones for WA have arrived already to their owners! WA is around 4 000 kms from Sydney (a bit shy of 2 500 miles)

If it doesn't show up today I'll be sad. Other Aussies (particularly QLD/Brisbane) who delivered your case? Aus Post?

EDIT: I should note I was also meant to be on the early shipment list. From what I gather that got thrown out the window by the Taiwan post guys but it's still disappointing to see people who weren't early backers yet living in the same city/state as me already having their M1's
 
Technically speaking, I'm not a backer seeing I pre-ordered from NCASES.com but only because I just missed out on the initial 600 units on the IGG. I feel for you though, it should be in the mail but if you want to make sure, go to your local AusPost office and give them the tracking number emailed to you.

On a happier side note, the second H220 I ordered from thekoolroom.com has arrived :D I did cancel the first one I ordered from NCIX.com and in the process saved around $50. Might use that savings to get replace the stock fans with a pair of CF-V12HP, NF-F12 or AP-15s. Not sure which to get so I'll run those stock fans for now.
 
Are you loading the CPU too? Regardless, 335 at the wall means 300 out of the PSU for everything. Thats a fairly comfortable. You are using a lower voltage on your CPU, and not yet fully loading your GPU yet, but Depending on how you got your 85% load, a prime and furmark test could be doable. (with care of course, assuming your meter is accurate)

My "test suite" consists of

Guild Wars 2, max settings, supersampling on
Battlefield 4, ultra preset (haven't toyed with the settings a lot yet)
Mechwarrior Online, everything maxed, motion blur on high
Natural Selection 2, everything maxed, directX 11 (beta) activated

Man I love how my skills interact with my hobbies.

Anyways, as my worklog hints at, other than watching my wattage to make sure everything was kosher, my other goal was to watch the interaction between the CPU and the GPU. I already had a basic understanding of how they would interact, like how if the CPU is the bottleneck, the GPU will generally be underutilized in the sensor log, and an artificial ceiling will exist. Likewise if the GPU is the bottleneck, then performance is generally just poor, and it's easier to identify as such by playing with the graphics settings. I just wanted to see it in action, and I got to yesterday, when I took the 4670k up to 4ghz. A mild overclock, but I definitely want to see where my limits are at, and safely.

I ended up with 1.100 on the Vcore, and it only bumped up the wattage in all my runs by about 20 watts on average. (Battlefield 4 saw a peak of 371, in multiplayer.)

In guild wars 2, I got to see the performance boost first hand as GPU utilization went up to 98%, and FPS with it. Battlefield 4 was much the same as well.

I will continue to stay on these parts and update my worklog with GPU results as well so I can allay some fears in this thread about high power equipment on the silverstone 450w supply. I've worked around some very difficult power delivery problems before, and I'm confident this setup will work for anyone, and even have a tiny bit of headroom to boot.
 
Anyone planning to use the NZXT G10 cooler on a GPU? Will it work in this case? Could be a great way to keep GPU's like the R9 290/290x cooler and quieter in such a small case. Thoughts?

I'm considering it for sure; I only need my 4770k (when it arrives) to run at 4ghz flat, and can hopefully do that at stock volts so I only need some mediocre CPU cooler. But it's the GPU that always has the issue... That said my current 670 DCUII is quiet and cool almost always, but more thinking of when I upgrade that...
 
I return with grave news; Swiftech H220 + ASRock Z77E-ITX = :(

I encountered CPU block inlet clearance issues:

1. Not enough clearance for discrete GPU with CPU block in horizontal position (moving GPU down one slot via riser is the only solution)

2. RAM (incl low-profile) with CPU block in upright position (impossible).

lUhG3Mrl.jpg



Not sure what to do next. I'll think it over after the weekend since I have to work and all.
 
I return with grave news; Swiftech H220 + ASRock Z77E-ITX = :(

I encountered CPU block inlet clearance issues:

1. Not enough clearance for discrete GPU with CPU block in horizontal position (moving GPU down one slot via riser is the only solution)

2. RAM (incl low-profile) with CPU block in upright position (impossible).

lUhG3Mrl.jpg



Not sure what to do next. I'll think it over after the weekend since I have to work and all.
Can't you turn it 90° ?
 
That said my current 670 DCUII is quiet and cool almost always, but more thinking of when I upgrade that...

Love my DCUII on the 670. An excellent cooler on a lower TDP cold GPU gives super quiet performance. Unfortunately the card is bent downards (due to gravity, weight of cables, and most importantly, a manufacturing error where my card was made with a pre-sag between the PCI bracket and the PCB.

Because of that it won't fit!! But I have taken the fans off, and currently cooling it with 2x GT120s, currently at 1440 RPM, keeping the card at 63 degrees, ambient 27, so thats 36 degrees above ambient. Found that raising the feet of the case by 3-4mm gives significantly superior air intake performance for the GPU, allowing the fans to breath easier. Without raising the case, GPU temps are 68 degrees, or 41 above ambient.

Still amazing how the less than ideal thermal layout of a graphic card can keep the 180 watt GPU at almost the same temperature as my CPU of 70 watts even though the CPU has fresh air and a C14 cooler!!

Just need to re-mount the GTs with more dampening than they are now, hard mounting with bolts and spacers.



The G10 looks neat, its something that I would be considering the first things to water-cool, certainly before the CPU imo. (well for my needs anyway). I have already decided against watercooling in the M1 due to the PSU fan on the ST45SFG psu being so noisy and requiring the 120mm side fan mod (photos comming), so aircooling is what I am focusing on at the moment.
 
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is it different than AD2 ?

I have AD2 on same mobo on my prodigy and no clearance issues.
 
Use the notches as an indicator:


1291122586.jpeg

"Regular" DDR3 RAM these days

1528862-a.jpg

"Low Profile"

LD0001248442_1.jpg

Very Low Profile

And what that gives you:

HPDFLKr.jpg

A lot less issues.
 
I has G.Skill Ares, so similar to those low profile Vengeance. Those "VLP" DIMMs looks like they'll fit.
 
For those of you interested(and who haven't seen it yet), and/or are still eagerly awaiting your case, there's a build log thread(which I have updated with new pics) Here
 
Just a suggestion here, the H220 tubing is probably on the long side for the M1. It's probably a good idea to shorten both tubes.
 
Use the notches as an indicator:


1291122586.jpeg

"Regular" DDR3 RAM these days

1528862-a.jpg

"Low Profile"

LD0001248442_1.jpg

Very Low Profile

And what that gives you:

HPDFLKr.jpg

A lot less issues.


I think you missed the Very Low Profile sticks with slightly taller heatsinks... but are still lower than regular low profile. The sports version of the Crucial I believe.
 
I think you missed the Very Low Profile sticks with slightly taller heatsinks... but are still lower than regular low profile. The sports version of the Crucial I believe.

The last two photos show Crucials Ballistix Sport VLP which is the lowest you will find. They also have LP Ballistix Tracer which does indeed have extended ram sinks(and LEDs) but is still lower than standard ram overall.
 
Those "Ballistix Tactical" aren't VLP in my book, with higher heatsinks then need be. Since they offer nothing in return for the increased size, just get the "Sport".
 
Miami, FL here, Early Shipment 2, nothing yet and I can't look at my tracking number cause www.ncases.com is down ><

Nobody in the US, regardless of priority, has an actual tracking number atm; just the tracking number for the container ship which has not been updated since it left port.
 
Now that it's very clear that - even after more than a month - these will not be delivered, let alone arrive in the United States within the next week, does the USPS offer any way to change delivery address at this stage? I have my doubts, but from early shipment lists being invalidated to shipment speed being incalculably slow, perhaps I'll find this a redeeming quality in the process.
 
I return with grave news; Swiftech H220 + ASRock Z77E-ITX = :(

I encountered CPU block inlet clearance issues:

1. Not enough clearance for discrete GPU with CPU block in horizontal position (moving GPU down one slot via riser is the only solution)

2. RAM (incl low-profile) with CPU block in upright position (impossible).

lUhG3Mrl.jpg



Not sure what to do next. I'll think it over after the weekend since I have to work and all.

Yer you have to watch some itx boards they dont support larger coolers thats another reason i went with a asus board they makes them so they do.

Will the reference 780 fit in this case? www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUIVTCS/

I'm trying to find a good blower-style 780 for my build. Any suggestions?

Yes they fit I'm using a EVGA GTX 780 TI with a ACX cooler.
 
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Those "Ballistix Tactical" aren't VLP in my book, with higher heatsinks then need be. Since they offer nothing in return for the increased size, just get the "Sport".

Crucial Ballistix Tactical LP aren't VLP, just low-profile (and lower than most other LP). And they do offer better timing out of the box at 8-8-8-24 vs the Sport VLP's 9-9-9-24. Both are low-voltage and 1600MHz, but the Tactical LP is supposed to have better OC. Remove the useless heatspreaders from either set (if needed), and again, the Tactical is the better kit at the exact same size as the Sport. The only reason to get the Sport VLP over the Tactical LP is because they are usually cheaper.

66MQaDS.jpg
 
Then why even consider a CLC ?

The H220 is made so you can link up other water blocks its not a CLC the water still needs changing evey 3 years unlike a H100.


You can replaced it with a Swiftech Apogee Drive II mite fit better, i wont be getting a H220 instead ill be getting the Swiftech Apogee Drive II plus the rad thats used on the H220, Will see what the H100i temps are like plus my GPU temps 1st.
 
The H220 is made so you can link up other water blocks its not a CLC the water still needs changing evey 3 years unlike a H100.
The main advantage to get a CLC is because of the block with pump integrated. If you want to change the block, you could just as easily get a custom configuration that fits better.
 
The main advantage to get a CLC is because of the block with pump integrated. If you want to change the block, you could just as easily get a custom configuration that fits better.

I know that that's why i said the Swiftech Apogee Drive II which is notch up for the H220 waterblock/pump.
 
I've actually started to think about water cooling now and I'm very much interested in the Cooler Master Glacer 240L as it appears to be an improved version of the H220 and I like the fact that you can add the water block for the gpu with minimal fuss.
I'm just not sure if it will fit on the Asus Impact VI. Does anybody own the Glacer 240L or the H220 to confirm it works without problems?
 
I know that that's why i said the Swiftech Apogee Drive II which is notch up for the H220 waterblock/pump.
But why even get an H220 if you're replacing more than half of it's value with more expensive parts, when you can just get a good radiator and the Apogee II Drive ?
 
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