drklu
2[H]4U
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You may have a chance to pick one up on ebay. Also, W360 will have leftovers from the extra they ordered for returns I would imagine.
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NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)
- Thread starter wahaha360
- Start date
You may have a chance to pick one up on ebay. Also, W360 will have leftovers from the extra they ordered for returns I would imagine.
Just remember that code is only good for 72 hours. No idea if they'll do another round of discounts. Hopefully they will.
I noticed on the spreadsheet "AdtEU" said the H100i was a tight fit, and looking at pics of his build, I can see why:
With the tubing towards the front, there's not much space for it to bend before it hits the PSU. Instead, I would recommend installing it with the tubing at the back, like I did with the H60i:
The H100i is a 240mm version of the H60i, so it should fit just the same.
With the tubing towards the front, there's not much space for it to bend before it hits the PSU. Instead, I would recommend installing it with the tubing at the back, like I did with the H60i:
The H100i is a 240mm version of the H60i, so it should fit just the same.
I've also been eyeing up one of these, but it's a fair bit more expensive. I think red fans with red coolant would look pretty good though.
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-020-TL
It's all warrantied like a Corsair or Antec one would be, as well.
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-020-TL
It's all warrantied like a Corsair or Antec one would be, as well.
AT did one back in March this year as well.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/6830/...ers-from-noctua-silverstone-and-cooler-master
I noticed on the spreadsheet "AdtEU" said the H100i was a tight fit, and looking at pics of his build, I can see why:
With the tubing towards the front, there's not much space for it to bend before it hits the PSU. Instead, I would recommend installing it with the tubing at the back, like I did with the H60i:
The H100i is a 240mm version of the H60i, so it should fit just the same.
Wow, that looks tight in there. I may go with the NH-L12. I'm not going to be doing any serious OCing anyway. I need to get the case first and see how everyone is doing theirs. Decisions..decisions..
Aftermath101
Weaksauce
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- Aug 11, 2013
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- 65
Probably holiday/Christmas sale?
I still have some major components yet to grab... mainly video card, SSD, monitor, and PSU (which I hope I can be patient for as long as possible trying to see if there's a new SFX PSU beefier than the ST45SF-G)
Won't fit I'm afraid. The block is ~66mm tall, but the ports are on top so you'd need right angle fittings. Shortest ones you can find are probably these Koolance low profile elbows, which are ~20mm. Assuming you choose the slimmer XSPC EX rad with the kit, it's 36mm for the rad, then 25mm for the fans. You're at 146mm tall. There's only around 130mm to the side bracket.
The only way to make it work with that pump is to drop down to a thinner rad (e.g., the Alphacool ST30 @ 30mm), and slim fans (<=15mm thick).
I don't know if these are from the same supplier or not, but they look identical as far as I can tell. I don't see any reason they wouldn't be a straight swap with the stock feet.
I expect to see sales from now till Xmas but whether it will be the exact model of whatever you want is harder to say. 10% off is the lowest sale offer so may see something higher but again no guarantee. A lot depends on consumer shoppers too. If they splurge not many high sales discounts but if the consumers hold off or elect to not participate then could see some deep discounts.
Let the bidding war begin.
adamantium
Limp Gawd
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- Jun 8, 2013
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- 266
If you don't mind going with a short GPU and want two SSDs and two full size HDDs, this is what I am planning:
I am going with the Koolance CPU 380i block, a Black Ice GTX Extreme Gen Two 120mm dual-pass radiator (54mm thick), a single 120mm x 25mm fan, and two Koolance 90 degree low profile rotary barbs. I just got the barbs today and they look great. I replaced the swiftech 90 degree low profile rotary fittings I originally purchased with these because they are lower profile by about 4 or 5 mm and eliminate the need for compression fittings. They are also about half the price of swiftech.
When dealing with the 90 degree rotaries you need to take into account the diameter of your tube, clamps or compression fittings. Most if not all compression fittings will work with the Swiftech 90s, but the Koolance rotary barbs are even lower profile and eliminate the need for the other fittings. The problem with the Koolance psuedo-rotary cubes mentioned a couple of time now is that they mount flush with the block surface. Therefore if your tubing, clamps, or compression fittings are larger in diameter than the cube height (17mm) you won't be able to install them. Therefore you will have to use barbs anyway with the cubes since a 5/8in OD tube will be all that fits without a clamp, and that is without a barb inside.
The rotary barbs are nearly the same height as the cubes (+2mm, ~1/16in) and have the barbs already installed. Since the barbs an integrated part of the fitting they can make it shorter than a rotary that must support G1/4 threads and an o-ring seal. The barbs come with nice looking compression clamps, however with the PrimoChill Advanced LRT 3/8 x 5/8 tubing, they are very tight and don't need them (I'll use the clamps anyway). Beware that the clamp size that comes with the barbs is for thin wall tubing 3/8in x 1/2in OD for example, but you can buy 5/8in clamps for an additional $0.99/clamp. And as I mentioned before the barbs are inexpensive too at only $5.49 with thin wall clamp included at the source Koolance 90 barb.
The CPU 380i plus rotary barbs installed is about 42mm thick. Combined with the 54mm Black Ice GTX Xtreme and 25mm fan it totals 121mm. This should leave around 9mm of clearance according to the 130mm number. Once I get my M1s, I will mount everything and measure the clearance to see if a 38mm delta fan will fit. I believe it will if the fan is mounted on the side opposite the block since the radiator is actually about 5mm recessed on the fitting side. 252CFM (and the sound of a radio controlled jet) yea!
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slabhatnik
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Sep 19, 2013
- Messages
- 133
If you don't mind going with a short GPU and want two SSDs and two full size HDDs, this is what I am planning:
I am going with the Koolance CPU 380i block, a Black Ice GTX Extreme Gen Two 120mm dual-pass radiator (54mm thick), a single 120mm x 25mm fan, and two Koolance 90 degree low profile rotary barbs. I just got the barbs today and they look great. I replaced the swiftech 90 degree low profile rotary fittings I originally purchased with these because they are lower profile by about 4 or 5 mm and eliminate the need for compression fittings. They are also about half the price of swiftech.
When dealing with the 90 degree rotaries you need to take into account the diameter of your tube, clamps or compression fittings. Most if not all compression fittings will work with the Swiftech 90s, but the Koolance rotary barbs are even lower profile and eliminate the need for the other fittings. The problem with the Koolance psuedo-rotary cubes mentioned a couple of time now is that they mount flush with the block surface. Therefore if your tubing, clamps, or compression fittings are larger in diameter than the cube height (17mm) you won't be able to install them. Therefore you will have to use barbs anyway with the cubes since a 5/8in OD tube will be all that fits without a clamp, and that is without a barb inside.
The rotary barbs are nearly the same height as the cubes (+4.4mm, ~1/8in) and have the barbs already installed. Since the barbs an integrated part of the fitting they can make it shorter than a rotary that must support G1/4 threads and an o-ring seal. The barbs come with nice looking compression clamps, however with the PrimoChill Advanced LRT 3/8 x 5/8 tubing, they are very tight and don't need them (I'll use the clamps anyway). Beware that the clamp size that comes with the barbs is for thin wall tubing 3/8in x 1/2in OD for example, but you can buy 5/8in clamps for an additional $0.99/clamp. And as I mentioned before the barbs are inexpensive too at only $5.49 with thin wall clamp included at the source Koolance 90 barb.
The CPU 380i plus rotary barbs installed is about 42mm thick. Combined with the 54mm Black Ice GTX Xtreme and 25mm fan it totals 121mm. This should leave around 9mm of clearance according to the 130mm number. Once I get my M1s, I will mount everything and measure the clearance to see if a 38mm delta fan will fit. I believe it will if the fan is mounted on the side opposite the block since the radiator is actually about 5mm recessed on the fitting side. 252CFM (and the sound of a radio controlled jet) yea!
Excellent and informative post. Parts lists with links are forthcoming for various configurations I am sure.... (or at least hopeful!)
Thanks adamantium- this helps me as I rethink my fittings for an AD2 on a Gigabyte z77 wifi board.
It looks almost exactly as on Neceres render.
I'm running the config you want with 4670k, SE14 fan on the C12P plus 92x92x14mm Noctua as outtake.
There is about 2-3cm space between the SE14 fan and side fan panel bracket, can measure it later if you want.
I started with testing and o/c yesterday. No other fans (except the one in PSU). At default the ROG puts 3.8GHz on all 4 cores. After 1 hour of LinX (with All RAM checked) max temp in Core Temp about 60-62 degrees (Celsius) with SE14 fan at about 750 rpm max and 92mm fan about 1150rpm max.
The PSU fan in SilverStone ST45SF-G v2.0 is the loudest part (I'm running my config for now only with integrated gpu).
Planning to delid the CPU, because it's unstable on 4.2G at ~1.2V with top temps about 75-76 degrees C in burn with LinX (SE14 at ~900rpm, outtake ~1150-1200rpm).
[edit]
Proglin:
No problem with that with NH C12P
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With a Intel stock cooler (until I find something better) and an EVGA GTX 770 reference blower and no case fans, the ST45SF-G is by far the loudest item in the build.
Would better airflow towards the PSU (e.g. by mounting extra fans in the fan bracket in front of the PSU) lower the RPM's of the stock fan in the PSU? Or is it only linked to the load?
Also, have anyone tested the diffences the PSU orientation does with respect to noise and/or performance? My ST45SF-G is really loud with the fan pointing inwards.
Would better airflow towards the PSU (e.g. by mounting extra fans in the fan bracket in front of the PSU) lower the RPM's of the stock fan in the PSU? Or is it only linked to the load?
Also, have anyone tested the diffences the PSU orientation does with respect to noise and/or performance? My ST45SF-G is really loud with the fan pointing inwards.
Fan speed is based on internal temperature and load. So the cooler you keep it, the quieter it will be.
There is a lot of good info here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1297303/replacing-psu-fan-in-silverstone-sfx-450w
and starting here: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1039872604#post1039872604
including info on replacing the stock PSU fan.
I don't know if I am comfortable exchanging the fan, as I'm not sure I understand the technology and risks associated with it.
I would much rather be able to keep it quiet by having it in a cooler environment, e.g. by using case fans if possible. Also, if it really is that simple to get it silent, then why wouldn't Silverstone have done that from the start. Cost cast be the only reason, I guess.
the SF-45SF-G has its fan speed linked to temperature. Load the PSU and the temps go up, causing speeds to go up. Unloading the PSU doesn't result in an instantaneous fan speed drop because the temps take a very long time to come back down. (have been watching my PSU fan RPM over the last few weeks of operation, and along load testing) Did a prime/gpu test a half hour ago, and its only around now that the fan RPMs have dropped back down to idle speeds)
Giving the PSU fresh Cold air helps. But IMO, the stock PSU fan is loud regardless, even at a cold start, its already quite loud.
The Noiseblocker mod I tried and was slightly quieter, but not THAT much quieter.
A Noctua R8 was then installed outside the PSU case (the noiseblocker that was inside was removed), and the R8 is noticeably quieter, but not dead silent. It too has a degree of clickyness and turbulence noise, but realistically might be good enough for most users. Interesting that the Noctua R8 is noticeably louder than their R9. I bought the R8 based on my happiness with the B9, but the R8 was a totally different sounding fan, especially at low RPMs.
For the silent freaks, its still not a silent solution, so I went with a 120mm with adapter.
Another question for the Asrock Z87 and a C12P. How much room is there between the back of the case and the start of the heatsink (or the centre of CPU). Want to decide if I need to order a slim 92mm, or a normal 92mm fan
Giving the PSU fresh Cold air helps. But IMO, the stock PSU fan is loud regardless, even at a cold start, its already quite loud.
The Noiseblocker mod I tried and was slightly quieter, but not THAT much quieter.
A Noctua R8 was then installed outside the PSU case (the noiseblocker that was inside was removed), and the R8 is noticeably quieter, but not dead silent. It too has a degree of clickyness and turbulence noise, but realistically might be good enough for most users. Interesting that the Noctua R8 is noticeably louder than their R9. I bought the R8 based on my happiness with the B9, but the R8 was a totally different sounding fan, especially at low RPMs.
For the silent freaks, its still not a silent solution, so I went with a 120mm with adapter.
Another question for the Asrock Z87 and a C12P. How much room is there between the back of the case and the start of the heatsink (or the centre of CPU). Want to decide if I need to order a slim 92mm, or a normal 92mm fan
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Building a silent PC with an aluminum chassis is hard enough as it is, this one with all the holes is even less ideal. I've given up on the pursuit on silence performance and just learned to live with it a bit of noise, plus having a Lian-Li D8000 loaded with HDDs in the same room helps mask the noise of everything else.
adamantium
Limp Gawd
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- Jun 8, 2013
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wahaha360, any details you can share about this? How did the call go?
Any chance of a picture to show us the mod you did. The lack of a "proper" psu is the only thing holding me back in terms of buying all the components.
Thought about the noise blocker mod and the noctua outside, but I really want a whisper quiet system. I'm even gonna lap the NH-C14 to make sure that the cpu stays as cool as possible to avoid high rpm.
AFD
2[H]4U
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- Aug 7, 2013
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LAST CALL: The Digistor deal for slot-load Panasonic Bluray or DVD writers should be ending sometime today! Just checked, and the coupon codes and free US shipping (over $75) are still working..
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040314284&postcount=6277
I'm getting excited.. just need to get an SFX PSU and a secondary storage HDD and my initial parts list is complete! And the M1.. yeah, I might need that as well
http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1040314284&postcount=6277
I'm getting excited.. just need to get an SFX PSU and a secondary storage HDD and my initial parts list is complete! And the M1.. yeah, I might need that as well
Not a great photo, but this was my temporary solution. You can see that its just a cardboard box that adapts the 120 fan into the 80mm hole. I have blocked the top 20% of the hole for the 80mm fan opening to encourage the air to flow through the PSU rather than straight through the exit vents of the PSU. Also, the fan is currently offset to give room for the SSDs, but in the real case, I will be re-making this adapter to better fit the NCase M1 when it arrives.
Currently powered by the internal fan output, with a Noctua L.N.A. in series (it was handy from my U9B). Idle RPM at this time is 650-700 RPM, full load RPM is 1000-1100 RPM. With a 120mm fan at 1K rpm, its practically silent enough
[OT]
Guys, I have to make a confession. I almost shat myself a few moments ago
I took IHS from my 4670k of (razor method), cleaned all, applied CLU, put all together and at ASUS Impact default (3800MHz all cores) Core Temp showed 140W power usage and temperatures hitting 60 degrees C at idle. In burn it gone to about 190W and 95 °C... (tried also clear CMOS etc..., nothing helped).
Don't know where the problem was, disassembled/cleaned/put together again and it looks temperatures are gone about 8-10 degrees down from normal/new state. So for now I'm hitting 54°C max at 3800MHz all cores in LinX.
[/OT]
Back on topic ->
ASUS Impact + NH C12P with SE14 fan -> There is exactly 2cm gap/space between SE14 fan and side fan/hdd bracket.
Guys, I have to make a confession. I almost shat myself a few moments ago
I took IHS from my 4670k of (razor method), cleaned all, applied CLU, put all together and at ASUS Impact default (3800MHz all cores) Core Temp showed 140W power usage and temperatures hitting 60 degrees C at idle. In burn it gone to about 190W and 95 °C... (tried also clear CMOS etc..., nothing helped).
Don't know where the problem was, disassembled/cleaned/put together again and it looks temperatures are gone about 8-10 degrees down from normal/new state. So for now I'm hitting 54°C max at 3800MHz all cores in LinX.
[/OT]
Back on topic ->
ASUS Impact + NH C12P with SE14 fan -> There is exactly 2cm gap/space between SE14 fan and side fan/hdd bracket.
Currently powered by the internal fan output, with a Noctua L.N.A. in series (it was handy from my U9B). Idle RPM at this time is 650-700 RPM, full load RPM is 1000-1100 RPM. With a 120mm fan at 1K rpm, its practically silent enough
How do you make sure that the PSU indeed does get cooled down enough, and this is working as intended?
ThreeEyedFish
n00b
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2013
- Messages
- 12
Ok, this is gonna sound stupid, but i forgot to order the no-ODD panel.
Is there anybody out there that ordered a panel too many or is there a way to still order one ??
-- a desperate ThreeEyedFish
Is there anybody out there that ordered a panel too many or is there a way to still order one ??
-- a desperate ThreeEyedFish
A subjective comparison of the airflow out of the PSU has me comfortable that the achieved airflow is sufficient at idle.
Temperature probes stuck to the exhaust of the PSU has been used to monitor the exhaust temps, and the temps are certainly no worse than the original temperatures achieved with the stock fan. I am currently getting somewhere between 30-40 degrees C at idle to load, depending on ambient. Currently ambient is around 25. I am comfortable that the airflow is more than sufficient, especially with a 120 down to a 80, there is significant pressure behind the 120 causing air to escape at the joints, and a strong airflow out of the PSU. More significantly though, I am pulling in fresh cold air from the side of the case, rather than feeding it warm/hot air from the case. Especailly with my non-blower GPU, having the load of the GPU, and the ambient case temperature of 35 degrees, the PSU really really warms up.
The modded 80mm fans I put in before (noise blocker and Noctua R8) do produce a similar amount of airflow to stock. I did not however test them long enough to compare temps, as I was concentrating more on the fact that they were still loud and certainly not going to stay.
Measuring my Exhaust temp at idle, I am getting 32 deg C, for a 27 deg ambient, 670rpm.
Temperature probes stuck to the exhaust of the PSU has been used to monitor the exhaust temps, and the temps are certainly no worse than the original temperatures achieved with the stock fan. I am currently getting somewhere between 30-40 degrees C at idle to load, depending on ambient. Currently ambient is around 25. I am comfortable that the airflow is more than sufficient, especially with a 120 down to a 80, there is significant pressure behind the 120 causing air to escape at the joints, and a strong airflow out of the PSU. More significantly though, I am pulling in fresh cold air from the side of the case, rather than feeding it warm/hot air from the case. Especailly with my non-blower GPU, having the load of the GPU, and the ambient case temperature of 35 degrees, the PSU really really warms up.
The modded 80mm fans I put in before (noise blocker and Noctua R8) do produce a similar amount of airflow to stock. I did not however test them long enough to compare temps, as I was concentrating more on the fact that they were still loud and certainly not going to stay.
Measuring my Exhaust temp at idle, I am getting 32 deg C, for a 27 deg ambient, 670rpm.
Not a great photo, but this was my temporary solution. You can see that its just a cardboard box that adapts the 120 fan into the 80mm hole. I have blocked the top 20% of the hole for the 80mm fan opening to encourage the air to flow through the PSU rather than straight through the exit vents of the PSU. Also, the fan is currently offset to give room for the SSDs, but in the real case, I will be re-making this adapter to better fit the NCase M1 when it arrives.
Currently powered by the internal fan output, with a Noctua L.N.A. in series (it was handy from my U9B). Idle RPM at this time is 650-700 RPM, full load RPM is 1000-1100 RPM. With a 120mm fan at 1K rpm, its practically silent enough
This would never work for me as I'll be using the NH-C14 and it will conflict with that spacing.
Its a heavily compromised situation, I have essentially occupied More space than a full ATX PSU in doing this. Its a very case specific solution. I will need to rebuild my fan adapter when I do try out the C12P
So the C12P with the SE14 fan, top of the fan to the Inside of the inside bracket is 20mm. Thats more than I was expecting. (about 15mm), but calculating the dimensions.. im sure im doing something wrong.
160 wide case, minus material thickness ~4mm = 156
156 minus 10mm for mobo spacer and 2mm for board thickness= 144
144 minus 8mm for CPU thickness = 136mm
136 minus 114 for C12 = 22mm gap. (to case walls)
I could be over-estimating the mobo spacer, or the CPU thickness, and we could have a gap of 23-24mm, but minus the Fan bracket and we end up with 20mm.
This is why the C14 is the Perfect height at 130mm, giving you a 4mm gap to the bracket based on your measurement. Necere's photos disagree with this, because his photos show practically 0-1mm gap between the fan and the cooler, however I do not know if there has been an extra 3mm added by the fan filters.
So the C12P with the SE14 fan, top of the fan to the Inside of the inside bracket is 20mm. Thats more than I was expecting. (about 15mm), but calculating the dimensions.. im sure im doing something wrong.
160 wide case, minus material thickness ~4mm = 156
156 minus 10mm for mobo spacer and 2mm for board thickness= 144
144 minus 8mm for CPU thickness = 136mm
136 minus 114 for C12 = 22mm gap. (to case walls)
I could be over-estimating the mobo spacer, or the CPU thickness, and we could have a gap of 23-24mm, but minus the Fan bracket and we end up with 20mm.
This is why the C14 is the Perfect height at 130mm, giving you a 4mm gap to the bracket based on your measurement. Necere's photos disagree with this, because his photos show practically 0-1mm gap between the fan and the cooler, however I do not know if there has been an extra 3mm added by the fan filters.
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thefivetheory
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Jul 29, 2013
- Messages
- 74
I emailed [email protected] about the same thing. There will possibly be some spares available after all deliveries are made (extras were ordered in case of defects) -- check back with them in January.
Firstly - Thanks so much for asking about and posting the install order a few pages back. That was incredibly helpful.
Secondly - You aren't alone in wishing you'd ordered a No-ODD top panel. I'd buy one too, if there was an option, but I expect that option is gone.
Thirdly - I'm planning to install my SSD behind the front panel, since I don't have an optical drive. Will it be obvious how to do this? If someone with a case has already done this and could post a picture, I'd be grateful!
Secondly - You aren't alone in wishing you'd ordered a No-ODD top panel. I'd buy one too, if there was an option, but I expect that option is gone.
Thirdly - I'm planning to install my SSD behind the front panel, since I don't have an optical drive. Will it be obvious how to do this? If someone with a case has already done this and could post a picture, I'd be grateful!
okwchin:
Yes, its 22mm to to case wall, the side fan/hdd bracket is about 1mm thick and it is about 1mm bend to inside.
On the other side from C12P secufirm cpu backplate bellow MoBo to the M1 plate to which is MoBo secured its about 3mm and this M1 plate is about 1mm to right case wall. I'm using the optional washers between backplate and MoBo (included in MoBo package), thats another cca 1mm.
Yes, its 22mm to to case wall, the side fan/hdd bracket is about 1mm thick and it is about 1mm bend to inside.
On the other side from C12P secufirm cpu backplate bellow MoBo to the M1 plate to which is MoBo secured its about 3mm and this M1 plate is about 1mm to right case wall. I'm using the optional washers between backplate and MoBo (included in MoBo package), thats another cca 1mm.
wahaha360
Gawd
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2012
- Messages
- 943
Rest of Europe get their cases? Think again, look at your friendly neighbours the Dutch
Imagine, there is a boat leaving for Germany. Taiwan post office reserves X containers. They fill those up with parcels and letters. If there is space left at the end for one package, it will go in the container.
Loupi was lucky, that's all
All packages are shipped.
The one person that received it in Germany was VIP.
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drklu
2[H]4U
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2013
- Messages
- 2,894
or order panels kits from ncases.com? EHH??? C'mon wahaha360 <elbow nudge>
I really want a set of silver panels and will continue to pester on this matter.