NCASE M1: a crowdfunded Mini-ITX case (updates in first post)

Here is a photo of the reservoir prototype. More images should be coming today.

jd56.jpg
 
I received the email regarding data centre loss but cant recover the password for my ncase account. How can I do this?
 
That looks ideal Adamantium :)

Anthony Vu said:
Can we get more photos? Mayhaps you can post it with something next to it for size reference. Something along the line of a ruler or a coin ;)
Click to expand...

Res fits exactly over the 92mm fan so perhaps this is a good reference.

m1_back.jpg
 
WiSK said:
That looks ideal Adamantium :)
Click to expand...

Seriously!!! Looks great ! Few questions, I plan on cooling the cpu/gpu with a H220. Would there be anything wrong with running this reservoir in conjunction with the one on the H220's rad? I guess I could try and fit a pump in there and use a regular cpu block but it just seems like a bad idea considering the space constraints. I like the idea of being able to add liquid easily and monitor fluid levels at a glance (let alone its sexy good looks). What are you guys running as far as a custom loops (what radiator, pump, blocks)?
 
drklu said:
Seriously!!! Looks great ! Few questions, I plan on cooling the cpu/gpu with a H220. Would there be anything wrong with running this reservoir in conjunction with the one on the H220's rad? I guess I could try and fit a pump in there and use a regular cpu block but it just seems like a bad idea considering the space constraints. I like the idea of being able to add liquid easily and monitor fluid levels at a glance (let alone its sexy good looks). What are you guys running as far as a custom loops (what radiator, pump, blocks)?
Click to expand...

You can add Adamantium's res to a H220 loop as long as it (A's res) is directly connected to the H220 pump intake.

On other rigs I use Apogee Drive II because it's an efficient place to put the pump in small form factor cases. On the family rig I use a single XSPC AX120 rad and a universal block on the GPU, and on my folding rig I have EK PE240 and PE120 rads and Heatkiller fullcover block. Probably will go with Apogee Drive II again for the M1 build.
 
Here are four additional images from Alex. He is still working on testing it in a loop and may provide some additional pictures. What I need from anyone who is interested in purchasing the reservoir, is any feedback for changes you might have on the prototype. Alex has made some minor changes to the design to accommodate his manufacturing process and tools. For example, the screw recesses on the front plate don't look exactly the same as the drawing, the side walls are a little thicker, the bevel is thicker a little shorter and on more of an angle, he has added brass inserts on the back for the mounting screws, and as mentioned before, the new single block design has been used which provides the stop plugs in the bottom. Please let me know if any of these minor changes/improvements create a problem for you. At this point I am happy with the outcome as long as it performs as expected. Now is the time to voice any concerns.

ylxv.jpg

jtt9.jpg

6hgf.jpg

67s4.jpg
 
If the res is mounted on the 92mm fan mount, how does the case exhaust air out?
Would the rad exhaust?
I'm a water cooling noob so I don't understand everything yet in terms of setup.
 
JMcQueen said:
I received the email regarding data centre loss but cant recover the password for my ncase account. How can I do this?
Click to expand...

You should have received a new password in the email. Use your existing email address and use the new password and you should get in. If that doesn't work you'll need to email Waha I guess.
 
lettuceman44 said:
If the res is mounted on the 92mm fan mount, how does the case exhaust air out?
Would the rad exhaust?
I'm a water cooling noob so I don't understand everything yet in terms of setup.
Click to expand...

A couple of answers. First the reservoir can be mounted on offsets if you want to extend the reservoir out from the back 3/8in or 1/2in. That way you can still have the fan internally and get air out with it. Second in many cases there won't be room for the 92mm fan inside. The M1 is designed to exhaust air out through the vents on the side and top (positive pressure).

If I remember right, Necere mentioned a while back that with the 92mm fan exhausting though temps were a little better.
 
adamantium said:
Now is the time to voice any concerns.
Click to expand...

The stop plugs on the bottom would be ideal place for some LEDs, but I see that the ports are recessed? Can I ask what is the diameter of the stop plugs? Monsoon do 17mm diameter LED plugs, would it be wide enough for these?
 
WiSK said:
The stop plugs on the bottom would be ideal place for some LEDs, but I see that the ports are recessed? Can I ask what is the diameter of the stop plugs? Monsoon do 17mm diameter LED plugs, would it be wide enough for these?
Click to expand...

Yes, the diameter of the recess is 7/8in (22.225mm). You should be able to fit most fittings, accessories, extenders, and adapters, even those that are somewhat large in diameter. This is true for all six stop plugs. On the back side, the fittings mount flush without a recess of course and you will be limited by the 1in (25.4mm) pass-through holes on the M1 case.
 
WiSK said:
That looks ideal Adamantium :)
Res fits exactly over the 92mm fan so perhaps this is a good reference.
]
Click to expand...

Thanks! The solo pix threw me off, giving the illusion that the unit appeared smaller, but it actually takes up a good amount of overall surface area since it covers the 92mm fan.

Cltnqef.jpg

z4jdBIF.jpg
 
I'm confused about the inlet and outlet ports on the res: In Anthony Vu's placing it on the M1, it looks as though the 1 inch openings in the m1 are covered by the back of the res- are the in/out ports on the res through the back of it?

I'm sure the answer is very obvious- I'm just feeling stoopid tonight :rolleyes:
 
adamantium said:
Yes, the diameter of the recess is 7/8in (22.225mm). You should be able to fit most fittings, accessories, extenders, and adapters, even those that are somewhat large in diameter. This is true for all six stop plugs. On the back side, the fittings mount flush without a recess of course and you will be limited by the 1in (25.4mm) pass-through holes on the M1 case.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thank you :)

slabhatnik said:
I'm confused about the inlet and outlet ports on the res: In Anthony Vu's placing it on the M1, it looks as though the 1 inch openings in the m1 are covered by the back of the res- are the in/out ports on the res through the back of it?
Click to expand...

It has in/out ports on both sides. There's a total of 8 ports. (Incidentally, Koolance make simple black brass stop plugs if you would want to replace the shiny nickel plated ones.)
 
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slabhatnik said:
I'm confused about the inlet and outlet ports on the res: In Anthony Vu's placing it on the M1, it looks as though the 1 inch openings in the m1 are covered by the back of the res- are the in/out ports on the res through the back of it?

I'm sure the answer is very obvious- I'm just feeling stoopid tonight :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Yes Anthony's picture is correct. The in and out are on the back. Take a look at the last picture above. You can see where you put your fittings.
 
Got it! Fills and drains from the bottom back... thanks! But what's the purpose of the front ports just under the frozen q logo? (yeah, I know..... noobies... but we gotta learn sometime:)
 
slabhatnik said:
Got it! Fills and drains from the bottom back... thanks! But what's the purpose of the front ports just under the frozen q logo? (yeah, I know..... noobies... but we gotta learn sometime:)
Click to expand...

Purpose is to have options. For example, if you stopper the inside left port, then you could make a pass through going to an external crossflow rad.
 
WiSK said:
Purpose is to have options. For example, if you stopper the inside left port, then you could make a pass through going to an external crossflow rad.
Click to expand...

Ok, that helps. Thanks WiSK.

I guess I should just stop and write all my questions in one post- probably will have more to come, but here I go anyway:

If I'm using the AD2, I'd go from the outlet on it to the inlet on the rad, the outlet on the rad to the inlet on the res, outlet on the res back to the pump- simple closed loop right? Having not done this before I'm wondering things like whether there is a specific 'inlet' and 'outlet' on the radiator (and res)- they appear to be on the side of my radiator (at least on the Alphacool ST30) - should the top port (as installed on its side) of the radiator be the inlet, the bottom port on the radiator the outlet, does it matter in a closed system like this? Also is the res similar, no inlet/outlet, just whatever configuration works with the other components and space available? Does this res have a vent to let any air trapped in the loop out, or is that a port add-on? Upon filling the loop, should there be air space at the top of the reservoir?

Sorry for all the questions, but again, I wanna get it straight and for you more experienced and [h]ardend this is yes or no stuff mostly- for us new to it, this is potentially critical to having a high performance cooling system.

Truly, I appreciate all the information guys....
 
i've never had something shipped from a different country before, so when changing the address for shipping, where should i include the country of origin? before the zip code? after? on a separate line under all of it? or does it matter if it is there or not? and originally all it said was "us" not usa
 
illli said:
i've never had something shipped from a different country before, so when changing the address for shipping, where should i include the country of origin? before the zip code? after? on a separate line under all of it? or does it matter if it is there or not? and originally all it said was "us" not usa
Click to expand...

Same here. Pretty sure country should go right under your city, state zip line; with telephone number on the next line below country.

Not sure whether US, USA, or spelled out is proper (I put US)..

Just put 'Murika, f*#& yeah! somewhere in the shipping label box and I'm certain they'll know exactly where to send it, from anywhere in the world :D
 
adamantium said:
Here are four additional images from Alex. He is still working on testing it in a loop and may provide some additional pictures. What I need from anyone who is interested in purchasing the reservoir, is any feedback for changes you might have on the prototype. Alex has made some minor changes to the design to accommodate his manufacturing process and tools. For example, the screw recesses on the front plate don't look exactly the same as the drawing, the side walls are a little thicker, the bevel is thicker a little shorter and on more of an angle, he has added brass inserts on the back for the mounting screws, and as mentioned before, the new single block design has been used which provides the stop plugs in the bottom. Please let me know if any of these minor changes/improvements create a problem for you. At this point I am happy with the outcome as long as it performs as expected. Now is the time to voice any concerns.

ylxv.jpg

jtt9.jpg

6hgf.jpg

67s4.jpg
Click to expand...
Yay! I'm so happy right now! :eek::D
 
slabhatnik said:
If I'm using the AD2, I'd go from the outlet on it to the inlet on the rad, the outlet on the rad to the inlet on the res, outlet on the res back to the pump- simple closed loop right? Having not done this before I'm wondering things like whether there is a specific 'inlet' and 'outlet' on the radiator (and res)- they appear to be on the side of my radiator (at least on the Alphacool ST30) - should the top port (as installed on its side) of the radiator be the inlet, the bottom port on the radiator the outlet, does it matter in a closed system like this? Also is the res similar, no inlet/outlet, just whatever configuration works with the other components and space available? Does this res have a vent to let any air trapped in the loop out, or is that a port add-on? Upon filling the loop, should there be air space at the top of the reservoir?
Click to expand...

The AD2 has a port market IN. That needs to be connected directly to the reservoir. Apart from this, none of the other ports in the system are specifically inlet nor outlets. (Even the baffle in the res will work either way around.) The res doesn't need to be completely full, as long as the waterline is higher than the top of the baffle.

Adamantium's res has ports on the top for filling. Those will be great for topping up, but from experience I don't think there will be enough weight of water to flow through the whole system and ensure the pump impeller is thoroughly wetted for the initial filling . As soon as you turn on the pump, all the water in the res will be pushed into the rad, and then the res is empty and the pump runs dry. Bad idea!

So I suggest, if you put the case on its front face, the reservoir will definitely be the highest point in the loop. You can fill the loop almost completely like this. (Using the front ports they will be face up - you asked, what's their purpose? - now we know). Close all ports then turn on the pump very briefly to wet the impeller. Top up reservoir and turn on pump briefly again. Now you can set the case back down and fill the reservoir as normal, making sure to switch off the pump if the reservoir ever isn't full.

Things you need for filling:
Squeezy bottle http://www.frozencpu.com/products/1...ng_Bottle_-_500mL_.html?id=NLqkg7xQ&mv_pc=523
Pump jump start http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5...mp_Start_Connector.html?id=NLqkg7xQ&mv_pc=658
 
Good tips WiSK, I agree with the people above me :)
hopefully the Ncase M1 is flat enough so it won't tumble over.
 
@adamantium

I like the res, and will definitely get one.

As for feedback, I have one suggestion, if it does not interfere with fabrication or function

Can the lower portion of the res, just below the lexan/plexi be extruded up to lexan face ?
so that the front of the unit is uniform flush fascia ?

thanks.
 
WiSK said:
So I suggest, if you put the case on its front face, the reservoir will definitely be the highest point in the loop. You can fill the loop almost completely like this. (Using the front ports they will be face up - you asked, what's their purpose? - now we know). Close all ports then turn on the pump very briefly to wet the impeller. Top up reservoir and turn on pump briefly again. Now you can set the case back down and fill the reservoir as normal, making sure to switch off the pump if the reservoir ever isn't full.
Click to expand...

The front plugs can also be used for draining. You put the case on its face again, replace one or both plugs with drains, then tilt the case back down and drain. This way your don't need bulky drain valves/barbs/tubes connected all the time on the outside.
 
One other thing I forgot to mention is that when you are done using the M1 as a computer case, the front plugs can be used as juice dispensers.
 
ptrout said:
@adamantium

I like the res, and will definitely get one.

As for feedback, I have one suggestion, if it does not interfere with fabrication or function

Can the lower portion of the res, just below the lexan/plexi be extruded up to lexan face ?
so that the front of the unit is uniform flush fascia ?

thanks.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion. Alex mentioned to me originally that the maximum thickness he could do was 1.25in which is what we are using. He would have to be able to go to 1.5in to do it. Its about 20% more in material cost from what I can determine. I will ask.

Correction: Make that 1.75in and 52% increase in material cost. I don't think it can be justified at that cost.
 
adamantium said:
One other thing I forgot to mention is that when you are done using the M1 as a computer case, the front plugs can be used as juice dispensers.
Click to expand...

Makes me wonder how well dopplebock would work as coolant... somebody surely has studied this- will begin some new searches right now.
 
adamantium said:
Thanks for the suggestion. Alex mentioned to me originally that the maximum thickness he could do was 1.25in which is what we are using. He would have to be able to go to 1.5in to do it. Its about 20% more in material cost from what I can determine. I will ask.

Correction: Make that 1.75in and 52% increase in material cost. I don't think it can be justified at that cost.
Click to expand...

I see then then he is milling out of of single block....sorry I was thinking from 3d printed perspective. Yeah it would be lots of wasted material.

Suggestion: He could do a separate top piece that goes over the single piece and maybe attach using three hex bolts. If not I could probably print one out myself, but just asking.
 
WiSK said:
You can add Adamantium's res to a H220 loop as long as it (A's res) is directly connected to the H220 pump intake.

On other rigs I use Apogee Drive II because it's an efficient place to put the pump in small form factor cases. On the family rig I use a single XSPC AX120 rad and a universal block on the GPU, and on my folding rig I have EK PE240 and PE120 rads and Heatkiller fullcover block. Probably will go with Apogee Drive II again for the M1 build.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info once again wisk, any ideas for a radiator besides the h220's that will fit? Trying to decide to go with the h220 or a custom loop or would the EK pe240 you mentioned fit?

Edit: Is anyone planning on using that full cover block for the Asus Impact mobo? If so what pump are you planning on using ? Where are you going to put it?
 
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Thats what i am thinking about, too ... Saw the bitspower block for impact board and cpu but i really can not imagine to realise it because of the pump
 
adamantium said:
One other thing I forgot to mention is that when you are done using the M1 as a computer case, the front plugs can be used as juice dispensers.
Click to expand...

:D

drklu said:
Thanks for the info once again wisk, any ideas for a radiator besides the h220's that will fit? Trying to decide to go with the h220 or a custom loop or would the EK pe240 you mentioned fit?
Click to expand...

PE240 probably too fat. I'm favouring the Alphacool ST30 because it's very slim, quiet, and good at low fan speeds. Plus it's all-copper. But I don't think it's the best performer at high fan speeds.

If you're not sure, go with H220, because at least we know it fits well and performs okay.
 
I'm thinking of building a system with a gtx790 when it comes out, and was wondering, do you think I should use a low restriction rad like the black ice or a higher restriction one like the koolance. I am thinking the koolance may be overkill, but was wanting a second opinion.
 
The new card is the GTX 780Ti, BTW and will be available mid-november, according to Nvidia.
 
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