Are you seeing banding on this page?: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gradient.phpIFirst of all, I've been seeing some pretty bad banding in gradients with this monitor. However, the funny thing is that this does not seem to be due to the monitor! I can actually take a screenshot of the picture I see the banding in, and zoom in on the banding in Photoshop. I'm not 100% sure, but I do believe that means that the banding I'm seeing is not due to the monitor.
I don't think they'll just send it to just send it, if you know what I mean. But if we tell them we're having a particular problem that is known to be fixed with the newer firmware maybe they would? I'll give it a try if you tell me what problem to say I"m having.damn, thanks for trying, maybe LG would send us if we emailed.
I should have mentioned this in my last message b/c I thought it was also a scaling issue, but that's what I have it set to as well. In fact, that's the default and that section is grayed-out anyway unless I connect my Dell too. It does report the correct native resolution, but it's just not outputting that. I also tried fiddling with Rivatuner, but I didn't have any luck. Is there some specific setting or another place I can make some changes? I won't be able to tinker until I get back from work tonight, but I appreciate your help and any help from others.What about the flat panel scaling in the Nvidia control panel. I have it set to "Use my display's built in scaling"
If I recall correctly, I believe the EDID for this monitor is write-protected.Some people have had more success with this process listed here and Powerstrip/Phoenix EDID designer:
Don't ask me about it, as I haven't tried it yet. But I might on another monitor for $h1t$ and gigglez.
I think it is the driver.I think that everyone with an 8800 series card is ok. I remember someone with an 8600 that was doing the same thing. Now it looks like the 9800 are plagued as well. I unfortunately do not know if there was a resolution to the user who was running an 8600. Perhaps there is someone else who has a 9800 series who could chime in.
As an owner of an L245WP, Soyo DYLM24D6 and a 2407WFP (non HC) I can concur this. The dell is great for Photoshop and I love it, but for gaming in dark areas and dark movies, the P-MVAs triump. The L245WP is a pinch better than the Soyo in these regards, but the Soyos price made all forgiven.The differences between S-PVA and P-MVA are exactly what you read in the description of the LG - less muting of dark colors in areas.
S-PVA has good contrast specs but in reality some parts of the screen (depending on your viewing angle) crush the blacks. At first it seems like glare because if you view it from the side, you can see the dark details better. But if you turn all the lights out the problem remains. It is one thing I don't like about my 2407 (S-PVA).
S-IPS overall have the best viewing angles regardless of what the specs say. 176 on a S-PVA is not the same as 176 on a S-IPS because at wide viewing angles the colors aren't as washed out as PVA.
All LCDs have noticeable sparkling when viewing movies, but the P-MVAs I've seen are usually better in this aspect than other LCD monitors, including S-IPS.
Thats the spring for the lift mechanism.Ok, got L245WP-BN now. Rev802 manufactured in Poland like the one Voetsjoeba reported couple of week ago. Interesting indeed that they are still manufacturing this monitor - I really thought it had been discontinued.
Service menu shows 0 hours of usage and package too was in pretty good shape. However, I noticed this while assembling the stand and it somewhat bothers me:
That is where the vertical stand and actual resting platter are connected. The component inside looks like capacitor or some other part of the internal power supply - something that should be well insulated for safety reasons. Of course this part is visible only when platter is not yet mounted, but to me it still looks like there shouldn't be an open hole even then.
I had rev706 of this monitor couple of months ago and I don't remember noticing anything like this when assembling it. Maybe I just didn't pay attention or maybe they did some slight changes to the design for newer versions. Can't be sure so I would need some help from other owners of this monitor. It'd be great if someone else with relatively new L245WP-BN, preferably manufactured in Poland, could tell me if his / her monitor looked like this too. Or even go as far as dismount the platter and check just to be sure.
Yes, they're the same. Looks like Newegg must have got a new shipment in.Are the L246WP and the L246WP-BN the same thing or 2 different models? The reason I ask is, I thought they were discontinued... now I see Newegg has changed the status frpm Deactivated Item to In Stock!
From what I've read, the NVIDIA aspect scaling feature doesn't work and never will under Windows Vista for the 8800 series cards. People said it used to work on the older 97.xx drivers but I find that hard to believe. Setting up a custom screen resolution under the latest 174.74 driver doesn't resolve the problem.I have a MSI 8800gt.
The nvidia scaling thing works fine for me using the MSI driver.
Can't see much on that picture cause it's not in focus. But AFAIR that's a part of the stand's lift mechanism.
Ok, thanks. So at least I won't get an electrical shock from the stand. Question still remains though whether or not this part should normally be visible. How is it on your monitors?Thats the spring for the lift mechanism.
Ok, thanks. So at least I won't get an electrical shock from the stand. Question still remains though whether or not this part should normally be visible. How is it on your monitors?
After using this monitor for some time I've noticed that there appears to be one hot pixel. Or it might not be completely hot pixel, but two stuck sub pixels. Can't really notice it during daily use, but just knowing that it's there is rather annoying. I've already tested couple of pixel reviver software (UDPixel, JScreenFix) and gently tapping / applying pressure to stuck pixel, but nothing seems to help. I was wondering if anyone here knew more tricks for fixing stuck pixels?
Well no, it shouldn't normally be visible. You are to screw on the base. I know mine looks the same (April 07). They most likely just left it exposed since it makes for easier manufacturing and saves an extra part on the BOM. Since you are covering it with the base, it really doesn't make sense to put another cover on it.Ok, thanks. So at least I won't get an electrical shock from the stand. Question still remains though whether or not this part should normally be visible. How is it on your monitors?
You need to set it to FULL on the monitor. The monitor should then upscale 720p to 1080p if you're using the DVI to HDMI cable.Hello! I have been trying to get a correct aspect ratio on my monitor, a L245WP-BN, together with a Playstation 3 (pixel mapping). I tried to pick 1:1 in the ACN menu and it at first it looked correct, with black bars on the top and bottom of the monitor. But, when I start a game (720p), the picture get's really small. I understand why (1280x720 res. looks small on a 1920x1200 monitor..), but I would like to "stretch" the picture, so it fill the whole screen, exept for the black bars on top and bottom (16:9 instead of 16:10).
Is this a possibility?
Thanks in advance.
What color temp setting are you using on the monitor? I recommend using sRGB and then set the brightness on the monitor between 20-40 (higher if you use it in a bright room). You need to adjust contrast and gamma via your video card control panel. In both cases, I needed to lower gamma and contrast a bit to bring out more shadow detail in games and images. Use this site as a guide to help you:I've had mine for several months now and can say it's proven to be pretty good, no problems here.
My question is...
Can some of you post what brightness setting you're using?