LG L246W

can someone who has the latest firmware try to extract it and post it?

I have the latest firmware and I could do it if you guys tell me how to do it. I downloaded softMCCS and installed it. What would I have to do next to retreave the firmware?
 
Well.....I just clicked on File, Flash Update Firmware, in SoftMCCS to see if it would search for a file, etc. Unfortunately it said "this cability is not available in public version of SoftMCCS."
 
IFirst of all, I've been seeing some pretty bad banding in gradients with this monitor. However, the funny thing is that this does not seem to be due to the monitor! I can actually take a screenshot of the picture I see the banding in, and zoom in on the banding in Photoshop. I'm not 100% sure, but I do believe that means that the banding I'm seeing is not due to the monitor.

Are you seeing banding on this page?: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/gradient.php

When I look at that page, I get no banding at all.
 
damn, thanks for trying, maybe LG would send us if we emailed.

I don't think they'll just send it to just send it, if you know what I mean. But if we tell them we're having a particular problem that is known to be fixed with the newer firmware maybe they would? I'll give it a try if you tell me what problem to say I"m having.
 
So I set the luminance to 63 instead of 64 with softMCCS and it does indeed remove the blueish tint, but am I gonna have to open softMCCS and manually set this every time I start my computer?
 
I just got the 246 today from a fellow [H] member. I've poured through this thread and seen a couple people with my problem, but nobody responded to them directly. Has anyone ever heard of someone who couldn't get the HDMI to work? Literally, as soon as I plug in the HDMI->DVI cable, the monitor shuts off and goes into power-saving mode where I can't even use the OSD. Even when component and VGA aren't plugged in, I can still use the OSD. Strangely, the display works perfectly all the way from the BIOS post to the end of the Vista x64 loading screen. Then, it shuts off and goes into power-saving mode as if there's no source. This occurs on my XP laptop as well. Do you think this is driver/firmware or cable issue? i don't have the original software CD, so I didn't install any monitor drivers. Any links I found to drivers seemed slightly dubious, so, if this might be the problem, would someone please send me in the right direction?

FYI, I have a 9800gtx, and both PC and TV mode in HDMI don't work. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for the help.
 
I'm running Vista 64 with an 8800gtx. I never installed any monitor drivers, seems like the nvidia control panel recognized it correctly. Drivers are 169.32. I have never had any HDMI issues. If you can find another HDMI device to try it with, say a console or a DVD player I would suggest that. Otherwise all I can guess at is the drivers for the GFX card. Try to open a support ticket with you gfx card manufacturer and see if they have had similar problems. Hope you can get it all worked out.
 
Thanks, after some more trial-and-error, it's clearly a driver issue. In the Nvidia control panel, I made sure to select the LG monitor because for some reason it kept trying to connect to my old Dell 2005fpw. That at least allowed me to display an image on the after Vista loaded. However, there are black bars at the top and bottom and the monitor appears to be stretching 1650x1050 across the screen, only showing the right half of the source (desktop) with a very blurry and stretched quality. This occurs even when I boot up the computer without the Dell dvi plugged in and when the Nvidia control panel shows one available monitor. It seems like something still thinks my Dell might be connected. The drivers correctly recognize a 1920x1200 native resolution on the LG. Interestingly, after I uninstalled and cleaned the 174.74 driver, leaving only the default microsoft display driver, I was able to get it to work. The 174.85 beta gives me the same new issue as the 174.74. I'm unaware of any other drivers out there, but it really sounds like a driver problem. And yes, I used driver sweeper and driver cleaner pro after uninstalling. Currently, I'm just running it without a display driver, but I'd obviously like to be able to play some games etc.

I'm sure I'm missing something really basic, but adjusting every control panel and OSD setting hasn't worked. Any ideas?
 
What about the flat panel scaling in the Nvidia control panel. I have it set to "Use my display's built in scaling"
 
What about the flat panel scaling in the Nvidia control panel. I have it set to "Use my display's built in scaling"

I should have mentioned this in my last message b/c I thought it was also a scaling issue, but that's what I have it set to as well. In fact, that's the default and that section is grayed-out anyway unless I connect my Dell too. It does report the correct native resolution, but it's just not outputting that. I also tried fiddling with Rivatuner, but I didn't have any luck. Is there some specific setting or another place I can make some changes? I won't be able to tinker until I get back from work tonight, but I appreciate your help and any help from others.
 
I have a MSI 8800gt.
The nvidia scaling thing works fine for me using the MSI driver.
 
I think that everyone with an 8800 series card is ok. I remember someone with an 8600 that was doing the same thing. Now it looks like the 9800 are plagued as well. I unfortunately do not know if there was a resolution to the user who was running an 8600. Perhaps there is someone else who has a 9800 series who could chime in.
 
I think that everyone with an 8800 series card is ok. I remember someone with an 8600 that was doing the same thing. Now it looks like the 9800 are plagued as well. I unfortunately do not know if there was a resolution to the user who was running an 8600. Perhaps there is someone else who has a 9800 series who could chime in.

I think it is the driver.
It doesn't work if i use another driver.
Have to stick with the one from my MSI driver disc.;)
 
I am sorry im jumping into this thread with very little knowledge. But have you guys tried creating custom profiles in the nvidia control panel for your monitor's resolution and refresh rate and forcing it to boot on that and stick to that? Also, what happens if you try lower resolutions?
 
I am looking for rev 706 (manufactured June 2007) or newer L245WP-BN / L246WP-BN since it's supposed to have some of the original faults fixed. Anyways, I know that revision marking is printed somewhere on the retail box but where exactly? Would be great if someone who already has this monitor could check his / her box and give some instruction where to look for that revision marking.
 
Hey guys. I have a problem with the monitor and the new 1.31 update for Warhawk for the Playstation 3. After installing the update and loading up the game the screen turns black. I can hear the game running in the background. Whens tarting the PS3 back up after the update, I also get a black screen (without launching the game).

I took the PS3 into my living room and plugged it into my Westy 37" and it worked fine. So far the only workaround I can find is to disable the 1080p setting before starting up Warhawk.

Anyone with this monitor have a PS3 and Warhawk?
 
Never mind, I found a workaround that I can live with. If you launch the game and then turn the monitor off and then back on, the picture will show up.

Hopefully this helps anyone with a similar problem.
 
Ok, got L245WP-BN now. Rev802 manufactured in Poland like the one Voetsjoeba reported couple of week ago. Interesting indeed that they are still manufacturing this monitor - I really thought it had been discontinued.

Service menu shows 0 hours of usage and package too was in pretty good shape. However, I noticed this while assembling the stand and it somewhat bothers me:

IMG_3115.jpg


That is where the vertical stand and actual resting platter are connected. The component inside looks like capacitor or some other part of the internal power supply - something that should be well insulated for safety reasons. Of course this part is visible only when platter is not yet mounted, but to me it still looks like there shouldn't be an open hole even then.

I had rev706 of this monitor couple of months ago and I don't remember noticing anything like this when assembling it. Maybe I just didn't pay attention or maybe they did some slight changes to the design for newer versions. Can't be sure so I would need some help from other owners of this monitor. It'd be great if someone else with relatively new L245WP-BN, preferably manufactured in Poland, could tell me if his / her monitor looked like this too. Or even go as far as dismount the platter and check just to be sure.
 
I don't remember seeing anything like that when assembling mine, and I'm pretty sure I would have because it took me a minute to figure out how to attach the base to the stand properly. I think what you're seeing is part of the height-adjustment mechanism and not a part of the power supply, because the power connector is plugged into the panel and not into the base.

I'd play it safe and contact LG to get a replacement.
 
The differences between S-PVA and P-MVA are exactly what you read in the description of the LG - less muting of dark colors in areas.
S-PVA has good contrast specs but in reality some parts of the screen (depending on your viewing angle) crush the blacks. At first it seems like glare because if you view it from the side, you can see the dark details better. But if you turn all the lights out the problem remains. It is one thing I don't like about my 2407 (S-PVA).

S-IPS overall have the best viewing angles regardless of what the specs say. 176 on a S-PVA is not the same as 176 on a S-IPS because at wide viewing angles the colors aren't as washed out as PVA.

All LCDs have noticeable sparkling when viewing movies, but the P-MVAs I've seen are usually better in this aspect than other LCD monitors, including S-IPS.

As an owner of an L245WP, Soyo DYLM24D6 and a 2407WFP (non HC) I can concur this. The dell is great for Photoshop and I love it, but for gaming in dark areas and dark movies, the P-MVAs triump. The L245WP is a pinch better than the Soyo in these regards, but the Soyos price made all forgiven.

And the award for worlds oldest quote made when I thought I was on the last page in a given thread goes;
 
Can't see much on that picture cause it's not in focus. But AFAIR that's a part of the stand's lift mechanism.
 
Ok, got L245WP-BN now. Rev802 manufactured in Poland like the one Voetsjoeba reported couple of week ago. Interesting indeed that they are still manufacturing this monitor - I really thought it had been discontinued.

Service menu shows 0 hours of usage and package too was in pretty good shape. However, I noticed this while assembling the stand and it somewhat bothers me:

IMG_3115.jpg


That is where the vertical stand and actual resting platter are connected. The component inside looks like capacitor or some other part of the internal power supply - something that should be well insulated for safety reasons. Of course this part is visible only when platter is not yet mounted, but to me it still looks like there shouldn't be an open hole even then.

I had rev706 of this monitor couple of months ago and I don't remember noticing anything like this when assembling it. Maybe I just didn't pay attention or maybe they did some slight changes to the design for newer versions. Can't be sure so I would need some help from other owners of this monitor. It'd be great if someone else with relatively new L245WP-BN, preferably manufactured in Poland, could tell me if his / her monitor looked like this too. Or even go as far as dismount the platter and check just to be sure.

Thats the spring for the lift mechanism. :p
 
Are the L246WP and the L246WP-BN the same thing or 2 different models? The reason I ask is, I thought they were discontinued... now I see Newegg has changed the status frpm Deactivated Item to In Stock!

Yes, they're the same. Looks like Newegg must have got a new shipment in.
 
Just got myself a new L246wp last week. It was the last one CDW had in stock. I must say this is one nice LCD. I really though it was going to be hard to give up on my 19" NEC 1970GX with it's glossy screen but I've just about forgot all about it now haha.

So far.... No dead pixels,no BLB, No banding when running on SRGB, Color was just about dead on right out of the box, no buzzing and no problems with coming out of sleep mode... :D

Some pic's...

PIC_00001-1.jpg

IMG_3066.jpg

IMG_3064.jpg

PIC_00006.jpg

PIC_00007.jpg
 
I have a MSI 8800gt.
The nvidia scaling thing works fine for me using the MSI driver.
From what I've read, the NVIDIA aspect scaling feature doesn't work and never will under Windows Vista for the 8800 series cards. People said it used to work on the older 97.xx drivers but I find that hard to believe. Setting up a custom screen resolution under the latest 174.74 driver doesn't resolve the problem.

The only workaround that I've found is to use the 1:1 feature on this monitor if you don't want 4:3 screen resolutions getting stretched. 1600x1200 works well with the 1:1 option and only shows black bars on the sides.
 
Can't see much on that picture cause it's not in focus. But AFAIR that's a part of the stand's lift mechanism.

Thats the spring for the lift mechanism. :p

Ok, thanks. So at least I won't get an electrical shock from the stand. Question still remains though whether or not this part should normally be visible. How is it on your monitors?

After using this monitor for some time I've noticed that there appears to be one hot pixel. Or it might not be completely hot pixel, but two stuck sub pixels. Can't really notice it during daily use, but just knowing that it's there is rather annoying. I've already tested couple of pixel reviver software (UDPixel, JScreenFix) and gently tapping / applying pressure to stuck pixel, but nothing seems to help. I was wondering if anyone here knew more tricks for fixing stuck pixels?
 
There may be,

Keep in mind that this only works for stuck pixels. I've never in my life fixed a dead pixel.

On my BenQ FP241VW (which is a newer revision of this panel) I had a stuck green subpixel in the middle of the screen. It would light up on black, but die on white (so the white was purple).

I grabbed a microfibre cloth and rubbed it with gentle pressure with my finger inside to no avail. I then started going out in widening circles and the pixel blinked into white, and then back again.

I then went in angles out from that pixel, and then found that when pressing on the left side of the screen, I would get the pixel back, and it would stay fine until I cleaned the monitor and pressed on the right side of the screen.

I then did it a few more times. About a week after the pixel stayed in shape, and I haven't had an issue since, even though I've cleaned it a number of times since, so I guess the pixel is now ok.

So try that, and see if that helps. I'm drawing parallels because the BenQ and LG have basically the same panel.

Regards,

10e

Ok, thanks. So at least I won't get an electrical shock from the stand. Question still remains though whether or not this part should normally be visible. How is it on your monitors?

After using this monitor for some time I've noticed that there appears to be one hot pixel. Or it might not be completely hot pixel, but two stuck sub pixels. Can't really notice it during daily use, but just knowing that it's there is rather annoying. I've already tested couple of pixel reviver software (UDPixel, JScreenFix) and gently tapping / applying pressure to stuck pixel, but nothing seems to help. I was wondering if anyone here knew more tricks for fixing stuck pixels?
 
Hello! I have been trying to get a correct aspect ratio on my monitor, a L245WP-BN, together with a Playstation 3 (pixel mapping). I tried to pick 1:1 in the ACN menu and it at first it looked correct, with black bars on the top and bottom of the monitor. But, when I start a game (720p), the picture get's really small. I understand why (1280x720 res. looks small on a 1920x1200 monitor..), but I would like to "stretch" the picture, so it fill the whole screen, exept for the black bars on top and bottom (16:9 instead of 16:10).

Is this a possibility?

Thanks in advance.
 
Ok, thanks. So at least I won't get an electrical shock from the stand. Question still remains though whether or not this part should normally be visible. How is it on your monitors?

Well no, it shouldn't normally be visible. You are to screw on the base. :p I know mine looks the same (April 07). They most likely just left it exposed since it makes for easier manufacturing and saves an extra part on the BOM. Since you are covering it with the base, it really doesn't make sense to put another cover on it.
 
I've had mine for several months now and can say it's proven to be pretty good, no problems here.

My question is...

Can some of you post what brightness setting you're using? I'm calibrating with a Spyder Express, and I've calibrated a few times already (fails to find me some SpyderPro software :eek: ) My little issue is, although I'm calibrated, photos look a smidge darker on any other monitor I look at. Also, my prints look a little darker than I'm seeing on the screen too. I've reached the limit with using ICC profiles etc to correct this (Canon MP970).

So basically I'm thinking my brightness is just too high and my Express software tells me nothing about where my brightness level should be :mad:

Thanks
 
Hello! I have been trying to get a correct aspect ratio on my monitor, a L245WP-BN, together with a Playstation 3 (pixel mapping). I tried to pick 1:1 in the ACN menu and it at first it looked correct, with black bars on the top and bottom of the monitor. But, when I start a game (720p), the picture get's really small. I understand why (1280x720 res. looks small on a 1920x1200 monitor..), but I would like to "stretch" the picture, so it fill the whole screen, exept for the black bars on top and bottom (16:9 instead of 16:10).

Is this a possibility?

Thanks in advance.
You need to set it to FULL on the monitor. The monitor should then upscale 720p to 1080p if you're using the DVI to HDMI cable.
 
I've had mine for several months now and can say it's proven to be pretty good, no problems here.

My question is...

Can some of you post what brightness setting you're using?

What color temp setting are you using on the monitor? I recommend using sRGB and then set the brightness on the monitor between 20-40 (higher if you use it in a bright room). You need to adjust contrast and gamma via your video card control panel. In both cases, I needed to lower gamma and contrast a bit to bring out more shadow detail in games and images. Use this site as a guide to help you:

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
 
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