LG 48CX

[elvn]

yeah I realize what you were getting at


..but I hate to see the ppi figure get parroted as being low when the screen size demands a farther view distance for both the viewing angle and the ppd. Some people might see that PPI number in the comment and only go by that ignoring the fact that the PPD is the same or even higher (than a near desktop 4k) at proper viewing distances.

like the original recent reply and a few others have commented before:

Man after using the Aorus FI27Q-X for some time with its 109ppi it's really hard to play games on the 48CX with its mere 93ppi. The extra pixel density is so sharp and nice to look at.

93ppi 48" 4k at 33.5" = 163 ppi 27" 4k at 18.85"

Same sharpness and density, Pixels Per Degree on your eyeballs. Sitting farther it will be even higher density per degree.

So he and some other people who complain about the ppi (and I suspect even text subsampling to a large degree) - are almost certainly sitting too close, perhaps much too close for this screen.

 

[spintroniX]

So for those of you running with the adapter on an older RTX 2xxx series GPU, are you just running 4k 120 Hz HDR with vsync enabled? Perhaps a stupid question, but nobody specified vsync on or off.

 

[kasakka]

Read that HDR would be disabled in the comments unless you (unverified) disable G-Sync. Seems like a huge trade off to me.

Not my experience. I've been able to run custom resolutions with HDR. But my Club3D adapter does not support G-Sync so that might be the kicker. Personally I haven't been too bothered by not having G-Sync.

 

[shadow2761]

yeah I realize what you were getting at


..but I hate to see the ppi figure get parroted as being low when the screen size demands a farther view distance for both the viewing angle and the ppd. Some people might see that PPI number in the comment and only go by that ignoring the fact that the PPD is the same or even higher (than a near desktop 4k) at proper viewing distances.

like the original recent reply and a few others have commented before:



93ppi 48" 4k at 33.5" = 163 ppi 27" 4k at 18.85"

Same sharpness and density, Pixels Per Degree on your eyeballs. Sitting farther it will be even higher density per degree.

So he and some other people who complain about the ppi (and I suspect even text subsampling to a large degree) - are almost certainly sitting too close, perhaps much too close for this screen.

Well I tried sitting further, like 1.5m from the screen, and I even used DSR 2.0x and these made a big improvement to my resolution quality viewing on the CX.

But after going back on forth between the CX and the FI27Q-X testing out Divinity OS2, I hate to say it, I much preffered the Aorus because the ppi and hence image quality feels tons more sharper still. And the colors are far more vibrant.

Maybe the next saving grace would be to calibrate the CX, then compare but I don't have any calibrating tools.

Even then, I'm starting to feel that the 48CX is still too large. It's shame for me, because HDR gaming on it looks so good! But HDR aside, I prefer my Aorus monitor for gaming.

 

[kasakka]

yeah I realize what you were getting at


..but I hate to see the ppi figure get parroted as being low when the screen size demands a farther view distance for both the viewing angle and the ppd. Some people might see that PPI number in the comment and only go by that ignoring the fact that the PPD is the same or even higher (than a near desktop 4k) at proper viewing distances.

like the original recent reply and a few others have commented before:



93ppi 48" 4k at 33.5" = 163 ppi 27" 4k at 18.85"

Same sharpness and density, Pixels Per Degree on your eyeballs. Sitting farther it will be even higher density per degree.

So he and some other people who complain about the ppi (and I suspect even text subsampling to a large degree) - are almost certainly sitting too close, perhaps much too close for this screen.

I would add that scaling used will have an effect in desktop use. At 100-110 cm viewing distance I use 120-125% scaling (MacOS vs Windows) for a text size that I feel is comfortable. But if I was using a 27" monitor I would probably want to use 150% to have a comfortable reading experience. That of course ends up with sharper text due to the scaling but decreased desktop space. On the CX that is a bit uncomfortably large for my tastes without adding a good chunk more viewing distance.

Games just ignore this of course. Then it becomes just a case of display size and viewing distance. Even Switch games running at 1080p with crap or non-existent AA look super sharp on my 65" LG C9 in the living room if I am standing behind my sofa, at something like 3-4 meter viewing distance.

 

[elvn]

I think he's just not set up for the viewing distance. He keeps saying the ppi is bad even though he now claims to have viewed it from far enough away to pass the 20/20 threshold ~ 60 PPD. Yet the CX at the proper viewing distances is actually a much higher PPD than the desktop monitor he is using. So at 33.5" viewing distance or greater it is in effect the same density to your eyeballs as a 163ppi 4k 27" screen (at 1.5') and much higher if viewing the 48 CX at 38" - 48" away. He's comparing the 48 CX to a 109ppi desktop monitor so what he is claiming does not compute at all.

Regarding "pop" ... if you like a slightly oversaturated look for some games, like I said you can either:
...... set up one of the named settings in the 48 CX OSD specifically for more saturated gaming. Then you can use the mic or navigate with the remote to switch to that named setting when you are gaming and back when you are done.
......or you can use nvidia freestyle or reshade to adjust a bunch of game filter parmeters easily with overlay sliders that will be remembered on a per game basis without affecting your TV OSD settings at all.

I similarly keep specific sets of named settings on my living room 4k FALD VA tv just for gaming, anime/animation (more saturated and different interpolation settings), daytime bright, a few middle level contrast/gamma, and one for dark viewing. I've used freestyle in the past on a few games and it can really help with some genres, especially on va screens. I haven't felt the need to use freestyle/reshade on the CX at all so far (when viewing in medium lighting to dim lighting environments that OLED is suited for) .. so again, what he is saying does not compute. I was playing mostly HDR games since I got it (jedi: fallen order on jedi master difficulty with no HUD mod, a full playthrough of Nioh2) and they looked incredible.. but now I've been playing darksiders III in SDR and it still looks great and very colorful.

==================================

Regarding scaling - for me viewing at at 33.5" distance at times but more often at the 38" to 48" viewing distances I use I'm not scaling at all on my 48" 4k CX. I have both of my 43" 4k screens at 125% scaling though. On my 15" 4k laptop I use 150% scaling but I'm sitting a lot closer at the built in laptop keyboard when using that obviously. Of course people have their own personal preferences (and eyesight if not corrected with lenses).

 

[MistaSparkul]

109 ppi is hardly even impressive lol. If it was at least a 27 inch 4k monitor with over 150 ppi then sure maybe I can believe it. But like elvn said, a 27 inch 1440p monitor looking sharper than the CX doesn't add up. I still have a 27 inch 1440p screen too (HP Omen X27 240Hz) and that definitely doesn't look sharper than my CX.

 

[elvn]

...
even though the panel of the OLED is superior on paper to IPS panels, the Aorus SS-IPS is extremly vibrant to my eyes and yet again makes the image very appealing to the point I am finding it hard to want to go back and game on the CX. Yes call me krazi, but I am almost preferring the Aorus for gaming over the CX.

Well I tried sitting further, like 1.5m from the screen, and I even used DSR 2.0x and these made a big improvement to my resolution quality viewing on the CX.

But after going back on forth between the CX and the FI27Q-X testing out Divinity OS2, I hate to say it, I much preffered the Aorus because the ppi and hence image quality feels tons more sharper still. And the colors are far more vibrant.

I took a little time to mess with a TV setting to make it more saturated and brighter for games. That won't be accurate and could end up crushing some colors at the far end but I definitely made it pop more in darksiders 3. Give it a try if you get a chance.

I didn't tweak it too much yet but so far I did this...

Set the TV to VIVID Mode.. it will end up being Vivid (Custom) once you edit it.
It will look like torch mode at first so turn down the brightness to 47. Still bright but the end result will be tempered somewhat. You can turn it down to 45 or lower if you still find it too bright. That's what I settled on for now. You could try 38 and see how that looks but you'd have to change some of the other numbers at that point.

OLED Light = 100
Contrast = 100
Brightness = 38 - 47
sharpness = 20
Color = 70
tint = 0
Color Temp = C50
**** DO NOT CLICK --> APPLY TO ALL INPUTS****

Picture Options: Turn them all off. Black level = auto

Additional Settings:
..instant game response on for the hdmi input from the gaming machine
..hdmi deep color on for that same input

----------------------------------------------
Nvidia Freestyle
....geforce experience running before you launch the game
...access via ALT+Z for the main overlay or alt+F3 to go directly to the freestyle overlay

+ Add Filter
---> Add Color Filter
Color Filter settings
Tint Color: 20%
Tint Intensity: 11%
Temperature: 0
Vibrance: 20

+Add Filter
---> Add Brightness/Contrast Filter
Brightness/Contrast Filter Settings
Exposure: 0%
Contrast: +5%
Highlights: +20%
Shadows: -18% (minus)
Gamma: 0%

---------------------------------

You could probably match the same tint and vibrance the filter is doing in the LG CX OSD but it's nice to be able to change things on a per game basis in freestyle or reshade.

The end result could still use some tweaking but it's definitely more console saturated looking. You can adjust a lot of things to taste.

I can tell the remote to swap back and forth between game mode and vivid mode whenever I want to go back to my normal settings.

Disclaimer ---- running higher brightness settings could lower the lifespan of your oled potentially , but then so could HDR material .

 

[HiCZoK]

Is there a way to check what software blocks screensaver from activating?
I've got it set to blank after 1 minute. It works most of time. Even when I leave a movie paused or yt video.
But sometimes it does not work. But I can't see anything really activated that could block it

 

[shadow2761]

elvn

My apologies, but I have finally got the CX to be vivid and saturated in Game mode in PC games.

I followed some suggestions from here:

And that did wonders for me. Now my CX is vibrant as ever.

But I remember doing these kind of settings a while back when I first got the CX, and then for the last 2 months I did not touch my CX and it seems all my settings reverted to stock. That's why when I was comparing my Aorus to it, I was comparing it to the factory crappy settings for colour on the CX and it was looking so dull. Now that it is all set up and proper, I can safely say I am definitely in love with my OLED screen again.

Still wish they would hurry up and release the 42" version though.

Anyhows, I have a question. What input label has the lowest input latency for PC gaming?

I always though it was suppose to be labeled PC, but it seems if I switch the label to game console it feels noticeably quicker.

Is this correct?

 

[kasakka]

Anyhows, I have a question. What input label has the lowest input latency for PC gaming?

Input label does not matter, but its icon should be set to PC if connected to a PC.

The lowest input lag setting is using Picture mode: Game. Even with the Instant Game Response enabled I find the game mode has a slight input lag advantage.

Personally I don't even bother swapping picture presets and just use the Game mode all the time. I have it configured similar to one of the IFS Expert modes.

 

[elvn]

It's probably not a huge input lag difference compared to game picture mode but I'd be interested to know how much difference there is in other picture modes while they are named PC and with instant game response turned on. That is, once you also turn off all of the other picture option settings manually on the other picture mode - which game mode does by default automatically. If you leave those on it will be way worse obviously.

I had been using game picture mode all along prior for games. I used vivid mode as a starting point yesterday to experiment with more vivid/saturated color and brightness. You could edit your regular game picture mode to look similar once you found a look you liked and then set vivid back to default. (You can't have two different easily swap-able sets of settings for game mode afaik). I'm more interested in keeping my normal and cinema picture modes more accurate than my game mode. Editing game mode differently than a default calibration's guidelines would probably be worth it for the vibrancy/saturation/brightness as long as it didn't crush colors too obviously/horribly on the high end. At least for SDR games. HDR mode probably overrides your OSD settings when it kicks in after you launch a HDR game anyway.

 

[elvn]

I always though it was suppose to be labeled PC, but it seems if I switch the label to game console it feels noticeably quicker.

Is this correct?

From Rtings:

With an Xbox plugged in, it automatically enables the Auto Low Latency Mode and it turns on HDMI Deep Color Mode, but you have to enable Instant Game Response first for ALLM to work.

Consoles might identify differently in order for that to kick in automatically idk.

 

[HiCZoK]

Another c1 quesiton here . I am only using media player classic home cinema with madvr to play movies on pc and the camera panning scenes show visible JUDDER.
But there is no way to reduce it on pc. Gsync and everything is enabled but I don't think it is used by mpc hc. Anyway - either 24 or 30 is an integer of 120hz so I don't think it's the issue.
When I watch movies through the netflix app build in the TV, there is "cinema screen" and separate true motion with "cinematic movement", natural, smooth and user settings.
The cinema screen and cinematic movement in trumotion looks the same to me and don't seem to do much to the image.
Other options smooth out the movement like magic but of course introduce soap opera effect.
What de-judder value are people using? I am trying 5 now and it seems ok.

But the intended way is to watch with ever of this stuff disabled, right? Like on pc ?

edit: Also - wheather watching 30/24 fps movie or playing 60fps locked ps5 game, The tv is best to be set to locked 120hz to achieve proper gamma too... right?! I am overthinking this shit way too much Btw the screen is absolutely amazing! grab it !

 

[NM64]

Read that HDR would be disabled in the comments unless you (unverified) disable G-Sync. Seems like a huge trade off to me.

What if you try making the custom resolution via CRU, making sure to add the necessary data blocks for "HDR static metadata" and "HDMI 2.x" (for VRR)?

There's also the option of black frame insertion which is something that's only available on the CX when not using VRR.

Another c1 quesiton here . I am only using media player classic home cinema with madvr to play movies on pc and the camera panning scenes show visible JUDDER.
But there is no way to reduce it on pc. Gsync and everything is enabled but I don't think it is used by mpc hc. Anyway - either 24 or 30 is an integer of 120hz so I don't think it's the issue.

Without trying to use software like SVP* configured to subtle settings, one option would be to use the automatic resolution/refresh rate changer that is built into both madvr and MPC-HC (only configure one of them; configuring both may cause issues) to switch to 24Hz for 24fps video content, 30Hz or 60Hz for 30fps video content, 25Hz or 50Hz for 25fps content, etc.

From there use the "cinematic movement" function built into the TV and theoretically everything should work well... emphasis on "theoretically" since I don't have access to any OLED TV newer than an E9.


*I just want to say that, as a long-time SVP user, you can always try using the older SVP 3.1 if you don't want to pay money or deal with a 30 day trial. Similarly the Linux version of SVP4 is completely free if that's an option for you (though I've also had issues getting newer versions of the installer even running so instead I had to use an older installer and then use the built-in software updater to upgrade to the newest version)

 

[kasakka]

Another c1 quesiton here . I am only using media player classic home cinema with madvr to play movies on pc and the camera panning scenes show visible JUDDER.
But there is no way to reduce it on pc. Gsync and everything is enabled but I don't think it is used by mpc hc. Anyway - either 24 or 30 is an integer of 120hz so I don't think it's the issue.
When I watch movies through the netflix app build in the TV, there is "cinema screen" and separate true motion with "cinematic movement", natural, smooth and user settings.
The cinema screen and cinematic movement in trumotion looks the same to me and don't seem to do much to the image.
Other options smooth out the movement like magic but of course introduce soap opera effect.
What de-judder value are people using? I am trying 5 now and it seems ok.

But the intended way is to watch with ever of this stuff disabled, right? Like on pc ?

edit: Also - wheather watching 30/24 fps movie or playing 60fps locked ps5 game, The tv is best to be set to locked 120hz to achieve proper gamma too... right?! I am overthinking this shit way too much Btw the screen is absolutely amazing! grab it !

Anything with a low framerate will be problematic on OLED because of its near instant response times. Try different dejudder settings for movies and TV and just use what works best to you.

 

[elvn]

Another c1 quesiton here . I am only using media player classic home cinema with madvr to play movies on pc and the camera panning scenes show visible JUDDER.
But there is no way to reduce it on pc. Gsync and everything is enabled but I don't think it is used by mpc hc. Anyway - either 24 or 30 is an integer of 120hz so I don't think it's the issue.
When I watch movies through the netflix app build in the TV, there is "cinema screen" and separate true motion with "cinematic movement", natural, smooth and user settings.
The cinema screen and cinematic movement in trumotion looks the same to me and don't seem to do much to the image.
Other options smooth out the movement like magic but of course introduce soap opera effect.
What de-judder value are people using? I am trying 5 now and it seems ok.

But the intended way is to watch with ever of this stuff disabled, right? Like on pc ?

edit: Also - wheather watching 30/24 fps movie or playing 60fps locked ps5 game, The tv is best to be set to locked 120hz to achieve proper gamma too... right?! I am overthinking this shit way too much Btw the screen is absolutely amazing! grab it !

I switched to using a nvidia shield for everything other than the LG WebOS Youtube app because the shield doesn't have hardware support for youtube HDR (Youtube HDR content often has static channel logos though so I don't watch HDR that much on youtube anyway). Although when I first got the CX I did mess with mpc-hc and madVR. You have to use the HDR tone mapping option in madVR for HDR content and map it to near the limits of the LG CX OLED if you weren't aware because pc/mpc-hc doesn't read any HDR metadata from HDR files on windows. So if not using MadVR's hdr metadata feature you'd otherwise end up at the default color curve which would be an incorrect curve for the OLED(which I found out from user Monstieur in this thread). That would mean that though you would still be getting HDR video shown - a lot more of the last portion of high nits in your curve would be compressed than should be so you'd lose more color detail and some highlights would be cut off.

The curves are arbitrarily decided by LG and don't follow a standard roll-off. There does exist the BT.2390 standard for tone mapping which madVR supports (when using HGIG mode).

LG's 1000-nit curve is accurate up to 560 nits, and squeezes 560 - 1000 nits into 560 - 800 nits.
LG's 4000-nit curve is accurate up to 480 nits, and squeezes 480 - 4000 nits into 480 - 800 nits.
LG's 10000-nit curve is accurate up to 400 nits, and squeezes 400 - 10000 nits into 400 - 800 nits.

I would use only the 1000-nit curve or HGIG for all movies, even if the content is mastered at 4000+ nits. All moves are previewed on a reference monitor and are designed to look good at even 1000 nits. It's fine to clip 1000+ nit highlights. HGIG would clip 800+ nit highlights.

LG defaults to the 4000-nit curve when there is no HDR metadata, which a PC never sends.

MadVR also has a pretty good interpolation feature which I had been using because the PC mode hdmi doesn't allow smooth motion~interpolation on the LG CX to start with. OLED response times are so fast that they can make frame rates and judder more obvious, like kasakka said. I think videos look way better interpolated for uhd videos once tweaked personally, almost 3d... but I understand that some people don't like the look. As long as interpolation method is quality and isn't overdone by the user (doesn't cause artifacts or obvious dark halos, trailing, etc.). I prefer that over judder any day even if it makes some backgrounds look more like a movie set or a play in some scenes. As you said, the PC mode on your pc's hdmi in to the tv doesn't have the option to use the TV's smoothing - but you can get it in the built in apps since they aren't running off of your pc or any input. You'd also get it on any of the other hdmi inputs if you didn't make them PC like I am doing with my nvidia shield.

The best bet for playing movies/videos on the LG CX imo, other than using an external player, is to use plex or emby WebOS apps on the tv instead of using windows to play videos. You can use the remote to navigate to the apps or if the voice control is enabled you can just hold the mic button down and tell it to open the app, then tell it to "go to PC" or "Go to hdmi<#>" (where # is the hdmi number that the pc is on) when you want to go back to PC.

 

[elvn]

I was playing some darksiders3 last night and tried vivid mode again. I ended up turning the brightness down to around 35 and then using nvidia freestyle to adjust the contrast and shadows down -30% each to brighten their level up enough. It could still use some tweaking but it looked good and vibrant at night. I'm still curious what the input lag difference is between game picture mode and other modes when the additional picture options are all turned off manually (which game mode does automatically by default), with both on hdmi input pc icon/label and game instant response.

Eventually I'll settle on some settings I like outside of freestyle to start with and I'll probably end up adjusting game picture mode to match it, adjusting values and swapping between modes until they look the same.

---------------------------

I also found this in case anyone wasn't aware. I have been using the "turn off the screen" trick , holding the mic button and saying that to turn off the emitters without powering down the screen to standby. I do that any time I leave my keyboard or page off a paused game for awhile. If I hit the windows key while in game I get my mouse cursor back when windowed+fullscreen without minimizing windows like alt-tab tends to do.

There is a a way to "turn of the screen" (emitters) drilling down in the menus of the tv but this way I looked up is a lot faster:

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/j0mia1/quick_tip_for_a_fast_way_to_turn_off_the_screen/

Quick Tip for a fast way to turn off the screen without voice commands or deep menu selection.​

Discussion
This option seems to only be for the LG CX, BX and GX unfortunately.. Would be nice for LG to add this to previous models with enough requests.
I notice many people have been going all the way through the settings or using voice commands to turn the screen off. Screen off comes in handy for many things like Spotify and podcasts with a static image while still hearing sound (the tv isn't actually off). There is a very quick and convenient way to simply add a screen off button to your quick settings when you press the settings button once (not holding as that will take you to main settings)
So you want to press the settings cog button once and then scroll to the bottom pencil button aka edit. You may have to delete a less used button to make room and then press the + button and find 'screen off'. This will add it to your quick menu which is really fast and doesn't require you to find it deep in settings or talk into your remote and wait for the countdown (it's instant). You can add a bunch of other stuff to quick menu via + but screen off was the big one for me.
I hope this helps! I've noticed many users didn't know this when I've commented so I figured it may help some of you worried about static images.

 

[shadow2761]

So all you guys gaming outside of 'game' picture mode, some of you guys said you use 'vivid', doesn't that increase input latency when outside of 'game' picture mode?

 

[Vega]

Yes, anything outside of game picture mode increases latency.

 

[elvn]

So all you guys gaming outside of 'game' picture mode, some of you guys said you use 'vivid', doesn't that increase input latency when outside of 'game' picture mode?

People say there is some slight input lag difference outside of game picture mode. In default settings on each mode its probably something like 13ms game picture mode vs 20ms outside of game picture mode.

I'm curious what pc mode (pc icon on input) + instant game response on but with all of the addtional picture options off has for input lag when not on game picture mode (any of the others --- cinema, normal/standard, vivid, etc).

Picture/Picture Mode Settings
..Noise Reduction: off
..MPEG Noise Reduction: off
..Smooth Gradation: Off
..Black Level: Auto
..Real Cinema: Off
..Motion Eye Care: Off
..Truemotion: Off
..etc.


That is, what is the input lag difference in PC mode(icon) + instant game response on comparing :

.....game picture mode which by default automatically turns off all of the additional picture options

-----VS.------

....vivid picture mode(with brightness turned down and edited) with all of the additional picture options turned off manually

========================

I've been using vivid to experiment with more saturated colors without messing up my current game picture mode settings. You could edit game picture mode to the same result more or less eventually if you still found a small input lag difference.

 

[DF-1]

Is there a way to check what software blocks screensaver from activating?
I've got it set to blank after 1 minute. It works most of time. Even when I leave a movie paused or yt video.
But sometimes it does not work. But I can't see anything really activated that could block it

i get that on my B7 too with my 1080 or 3080.

 

[elvn]

Game mode by default is terribly unsaturated outside of HDR games so I can see why shadow2761 was complaining about the default settings. I have been playing HDR games since I got the TV so desaturated SDR games in game mode was new to me.

I set my game picture mode OSD color setting to 95 at the moment. The rest of the OSD settings are pretty normal --> brightness 50 (OLED bright 100) , contrast 100

Then in Nvidia Freestyle (running darksiders 3) for now I set:

+Brightness/Contrast Filter
...Contrast +5% (more inky)
...Highlights +20%
...Shadows -30% (minus to show detail in darks)
...Gamma = zero

+Color Filter
...Tint +20%
...Tint Intensity +30%
...Vibrance 0% to +10% or wherever you like +/- depending how high you left your color slider in the TV OSD to start with and what kind of game you are setting up filters on

Optionally
+Details Filter
...Sharpen +0% (+/- might be useful on some games)
...Clarity +20%
...HDR Toning +10%

I can adjust the TV OSD (esp. color) differently if needed but it's nice to be able to adjust on a per game basis in Freestyle for more saturation or not, along with other freestyle filters. The ability to change overall brightness/contrast on a game instantly is appreciated day to night in my room for example. Unfortunately the LG CX does not allow for the full game mode in more than one picture mode or set of named OSD settings. Otherwise I'd have one mode or name for game high color/vivid day, one for high color/vivid night, one for game natural day, one for game natural night, etc. Changing more than one parameter in the OSD on a per game or per time of day basis would be a pita but I guess it's doable if you had to. Using filter methods instead - once you get your game profile of filters set up in freestyle (or reshade), the specific filter set you made per game will load every time you play a particular game and unload when you quit.

That's how I have it for the darksiders 3 profile #2 during the daytime. I can hit alt+f3 (or alt+z then mouse click) and swap between 3 sets of filters per game in the freestyle overlay. I have a different profile #1 for night/dim room lighting. I might try to duplicate this in reshade at some point but freestyle is convenient to experiment with for now.

Just a FYI that some online games might block or ban using filters because people use them to cheese shooters by lighting up dark areas, adjusting other settings that essentially remove fog, etc. (People still use in game graphics settings limitations and monitor OSD settings to cheeze too).

 

[elvn]

i get that on my B7 too with my 1080 or 3080.

I'd never rely on system screensavers. They can crash, something crashing or crash notification window could take top layer over the screensaver, your whole gpu could crash leaving noise on the screen (rare but still) .. your system could spontaneously reboot and get stuck on a bios/logon/update screen , etc.

I have been using the "turn off the screen" trick , holding the mic button and saying that to turn off the emitters without powering down the screen to standby. I do that any time I leave my keyboard or page off a paused game for awhile. If I hit the windows key while in game I get my mouse cursor back when windowed+fullscreen without minimizing windows like alt-tab tends to do so I can page my mouse off to another screen in my multi monitor array.

There is a a way to "turn of the screen" (emitters) drilling down in the menus of the tv but this way I looked up is a lot faster:

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED/comments/j0mia1/quick_tip_for_a_fast_way_to_turn_off_the_screen/

Quick Tip for a fast way to turn off the screen without voice commands or deep menu selection.​

View attachment 359096
Discussion
This option seems to only be for the LG CX, BX and GX unfortunately.. Would be nice for LG to add this to previous models with enough requests.
I notice many people have been going all the way through the settings or using voice commands to turn the screen off. Screen off comes in handy for many things like Spotify and podcasts with a static image while still hearing sound (the tv isn't actually off). There is a very quick and convenient way to simply add a screen off button to your quick settings when you press the settings button once (not holding as that will take you to main settings)
So you want to press the settings cog button once and then scroll to the bottom pencil button aka edit. You may have to delete a less used button to make room and then press the + button and find 'screen off'. This will add it to your quick menu which is really fast and doesn't require you to find it deep in settings or talk into your remote and wait for the countdown (it's instant). You can add a bunch of other stuff to quick menu via + but screen off was the big one for me.
I hope this helps! I've noticed many users didn't know this when I've commented so I figured it may help some of you worried about static images.

With that setup I linked you just quick-press the cog button then move the OSD mouse cursor over to the TV icon(that has a round power icon in it) and press the remote wheel "mouse click" to turn off the screen. It's very fast. Quick press cog wheel , move the OSD mouse over, click.

Turning "off" the screen using these methods only turns the emitters off. It doesn't drop the screen from the array causing window shuffling or on a multi monitor setup swapping the running game to a different screen or other messy effects. To the system the screen is still on and not in standy. The emitters are just off. Everything is still running (including sound). A touch of any button on the remote lights the emitters back up instantly. I press the side of the wheel to do that personally.

The only risk with the remote turn off the screen method is if your remote gets hit while it is off .. falls, cats, you throw the remote down after you turn it off and it hits the keypad.. whatever but I haven't had any problem. Any key hit will wake the screen back up - so you could still use a screensaver to be extra safe.

As long as you don't disable the built in protections the TV has it will go very dim after several minutes when on a static screen and that should cut down a lot of burn in risk in the first place but turning off the emitters is quick and easy and it's become my easy routine almost like minimizing a window.

 

[HiCZoK]

Anyone inspected what BOOST prevent input delay option does really? Does it have any negative effects on VRR or gamma? Or should it only be used at 60hz?

 

[elvn]

I messed around in reshade a bit so that I could turn the geforce experience overlay off. You turn that off in the main geforce experience app window, not the overlay. Hit cog wheel in that window, turn the overlay slider off. You can uninstall geforce experience entirely of course but I still use it for a few things.

I'm not an expert reshade tweaker but I settled on something I like for now, at least for the somewhat cartoony darksiders3 game.

LG CX TV OSD
-----------------------
hdmi input set to PC name and icon
Game Picture Mode (User)
OLED Light: 100
Contrast:100
Brightness: 50
Sharpness:10
Color: 75

Advanced Controls: off (color gamut:auto)

Picture Options: all off (black level: auto)

Additional Settings: HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color=On, Instant Game Response = On

=======================================

Reshade Filters
----------------------

Lightroom [qUINT_lightroom.fx]
Curves......
Global Exposure: 0.050 (subtle.. lights up without crushing white)
Global Gamma: 0.120
Global Shadows Curve: 0.225 (shows more detail in darks)
Color & Saturation..............
Global Saturation: 0.125
Global Vibrance: 0.150

HDR [fakeHDR.fx]
Power: 1.900
Radius1: 0.793
Radius2: 0.870


LumaSharpen [LumaSharpen.fx]... at defaults for now
Sharpening Strength: 0.650
Sharpening Limit: 0.035
Sample Pattern: normal
Offset bias: 1.00

=========================================

The fakeHDR settings change the result of the Lightroom filter a lot so these settings do not look good separately. I think the end restult looks pretty good as it is but I can definitely spend time tweaking it more.

You can set up a lot of different game profiles so I'm going to keep my OSD color fairly high on game picture mode because I can always reduce it/shape it with filters if I want to for some games.

 

[elvn]

Anyone inspected what BOOST prevent input delay option does really? Does it have any negative effects on VRR or gamma? Or should it only be used at 60hz?

Only what a google search provided.. a reddit thread claiming it's only useful for 60hz content to mimic 120hz response times along with a few youtube vid links including hdtvtest:

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...prevent_input_delay_input_lag_option_on_c1g1/

Timestamped at the input lag part:



So if you are playing a 60fps game or running a gpu that only does 60hz on the tv it might still be useful. Vincent said it looks like it's doubling the frames for a slight input lag reduction on 60fps content(12.5ms vs 9.6ms) and is not useful at 120fps. In fact I think he said it makes the input lag worse at 120fps so you should still use standard mode for that.

 

[HiCZoK]

Only what a google search provided.. a reddit thread claiming it's only useful for 60hz content to mimic 120hz response times along with a few youtube vid links including hdtvtest:

https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...prevent_input_delay_input_lag_option_on_c1g1/

Timestamped at the input lag part:



So if you are playing a 60fps game or running a gpu that only does 60hz on the tv it might still be useful. Vincent said it looks like it's doubling the frames for a slight input lag reduction on 60fps content(12.5ms vs 9.6ms) and is not useful at 120fps. In fact I think he said it makes the input lag worse at 120fps so you should still use standard mode for that.

hmmm sounds like it will ONLY work for 60hz content. So for ps5 since most stuff on pc is running with vrr, so it should not engage.
Doubling of frames sounds like it could be troublesome so I think I will avoid it.
But what is also interesting - I wonder how gamma measures at 60hz, 120hz and 60hz boost option. We know that vrr framerates below 120hz, lower the gamma visibly. But If I set LOCKED 60hz like on ps5 (so the tv reports 4k 60hz fixed), is the gamma lower than that at 120hz or 60hz boost

 

[elvn]

Idk but you can prob adjust for that somewhat either in your OSD or using reshade with a named profile for 60hz if you had to. I've tweaked my darksiders 3 profile a little more now and copied it to a new profile name that I set up and tweaked for daytime. I'll re-adjust the base one I made later to another profile for night/dim room conditions. Brightness/contrast/gamma/saturation are all relative to the viewing environment to your eyes and brain. Your frame rate can also affect the gamma on the LG OLEDs like you said.

It sounds to me like the frame doubling of 60hz would bring the gamma back to the 120fps-hz the TV is calibrated for since it is based on the timing/frequency not the content in each frame.

Frame doubling is not the same as interpolation though. It's not adding any more in between frames of action to make more points on a path or more unique pages in an animation flip book. It's just doubling a frozen frame/page of action. So for more motion definition you'd still be much better off running a higher framerate if your gpu/adapter and game engine allows you to go to 120hz max.

Otherwise I believe your gamma and your input lag are both affected slightly by your frame rate. So if using VRR and a 3000 series hdmi2.1 gpu (or 2000 with 120hz hdmi 2.1 adapter w/o vrr) I'd guess that you'd have more accurate and less noticeably variable gamma if you kept your frame rate roller coaster to the higher range.. maybe somewhere around:

(60) 75fps <<< 90 fpsHz avg >>> 105 (117capped)
(65) 80fps <<< 95 fpsHz average >>> 110 (117capped)
(75) 90fps <<< 105 fpsHz avg >>> 117capped

 

[elvn]

Screenshot of darksiders 3 with normal play settings I timed. It was tricky to get the timing on it.





====================
====================

Another screenshot I timed here. You'd need an oled with same osd settings to see it like I do when I'm playing but I still thought the screenshots looked good on the 4k va tv next to my LG CX. That is with in game "performance" settings I use with only a few things not maxed (shadows on medium ,etc). Nothing amped up differently than I play the game with just for screenshot's sake that is.

Settings currently:

LG CX TV OSD
-----------------------
hdmi input set to PC name and icon
Game Picture Mode (User)
OLED Light: 100
Contrast:100
Brightness: 50
Sharpness:10
Color: 75

Advanced Controls: off (color gamut:auto)

Picture Options: all off (black level: auto)

Additional Settings: HDMI Ultra HD Deep Color=On, Instant Game Response = On

=======================================

Reshade Filters
----------------------

Lightroom [qUINT_lightroom.fx]
Curves......
Global Exposure: 1.30 (subtle.. lights up without crushing white)
Global Gamma: 0.130
Global Shadows Curve: 0.225 (shows more detail in darks)
Color & Saturation..............
Global Saturation: -0.159 (minus b/c I have the OSD color of the TV relatively high at 75 to start with)
Global Vibrance: 0.150

HDR [fakeHDR.fx]
Power: 1.900
Radius1: 0.793
Radius2: 0.870


LumaSharpen [LumaSharpen.fx]... at defaults for now
Sharpening Strength: 0.650
Sharpening Limit: 0.035
Sample Pattern: normal
Offset bias: 1.00

 

[causticspill]

Picked a CX up from Costco, scheduled to be delivered today- hopefully not too beat up (please be kind, UPS). I had the option and considered a microcenter refurb, but knowing my luck I'd get a dud with 2000 hours on it already and have to drive it back; time is money. Much easier to test drive with Costco's 90 day return window.

Very excited, but not sure if it is going to work with my setup of a motorized desk with only a depth of 27.5". Looking through the thread though, some people have made similar desks work. Might take some experimentation with stands/arms to fine tune the viewing distance. Or I guess installing a sliding keyboard tray could be an option too. Going to be the only monitor so it needs to work for productivity and gaming (PC and Series X). Definitely appreciate all the information hiding in this thread- getting the CX48 set up and dialed in sounds very daunting, but nice to know others have done the heavy lifting already.

 

[Perscitus]

Version 03.21.21 is out for the CX series boxes.

Released a few days ago (dated 24-May-21) and available on the US site and perhaps beyond (CA, UK, etc). KR site still stuck on old Feb/Mar dark ages build - guess they moved on to focus on CXI aka C1 series.

Change-log shows the generic cross-industry release note: [03.21.21] Software update contains minor bug fixes

 

[elvn]

I redid all of my settings after adjusting back to HDR on in windows all of the time so none of those values I posted are applicable to my HDR mode. When I first started playing SDR games again I had turned it off. I have desktop HDR always on again now and the desktop HDR slider in windows is set to 17.

I was able to match the look I was getting before but with different values.

The point I was getting at is that since you can't use multiple named picture modes in the TV OSD you can instead make one or multiple named loadouts/edits on reshade profiles per game instead. FakeHDR level, global exposure, global gamma, global shadows curve, global saturation, global vibrance and anything else you feel like tweaking +/-. I keep the TV's own OSD color slider in game picture mode higher than I'd use in a game because it seems easier to subtract saturation than to add it in reshade.

 

[MelonSplitter]

On the Home page I can't view videos or photos from my phone . I get a pop-up saying Please approve content access on your mobile device. Am I missing something

 

[elvn]

I haven't tried that one yet. You are saying that you get that pop-up on your tv it sounds like. Maybe your mobile device (android I'm assuming) has security built into it or have to go into settings somewhere to allow it (or enable dev mode, etc). Did you try linking your phone directly to the TV? I did have mine hooked up so I could use it as a remote at one point but I never tried sending pictures.

My main gripe is that with my setup running pc in to the tv and then e-ARC out to my receiver - switching to the LG WebOS Youtube app won't play sound unless I hold the gog wheel down on the remote and go into the sound settings and switch it to PCM. Then every time I go back to PC I switch it back to "pass through". Annoying and less streamlined switching but doable. At least I can get sound.

 

[MelonSplitter]

My Note 10 is paired in the app and on the TV. All permissions are granted on my phone. I gotta be missing something. It's frustrating not allowing me to do this. I know I can use Smarview from my phone but it's a little wonky.

 

[HiCZoK]

Anyone treid god of war ? Highlights in the clouds for example are super overblown even at default 50/50 in game settings.
That's with lg c1 on hgig or dtm. no matter.
3rd image is with brightness ingame set to 25

 

[TwistedMetalGear]

Anyone know the odds of a CX/C1 box fitting in a small 2 door coupe? It looks like a pretty small box. I guess my concern is whether or not the front seat will tilt forward enough to get it back there.

Also is this easy for one person to carry?

 

[sharknice]

Pretty easy to carry for one person. It will probably fit, it might be hard to maneuver it to fit as one person.

 

[Deleted member 312202]

Anyone know the odds of a CX/C1 box fitting in a small 2 door coupe? It looks like a pretty small box. I guess my concern is whether or not the front seat will tilt forward enough to get it back there.

Also is this easy for one person to carry?

The 48" version box is decent size but should fit in a coupe with little issues. I didn't have a problem carrying the box out myself, but I'm 6'3" and have pretty long arms so the ability to carry the box alone will differ from person to person of course.