LG 48CX

You can just not connect your TV to your network.
Indeed I’ll probably do that now that I have a shield.
I like it so far but I only use it for 1080p content so I'm not using it that often. Compared to the original 1080p it's way better. Some people prefer a more softened look though. You might be able to make a named set of settings on the tv itself that are less sharp for when you are using ai upscaling. I've never tried doing that myself, at least not yet.
Maybe. I was comparing scenes and just feel it oversharpens a bit much. With subtitles on it creates fringes around the letters too. Disappointing since I know ai/ml based up scaling can be much better. Maybe the shield isn’t powerful enough for the better shaders.
 
TIL the Live+ feature on the LG CX is a glorified screen logger. It captures images from your TV and sends them to remote servers to be matched for ad tracking purposes. Can't believe such a feature exists, wtf. Anyways, make sure you turn it off.

You can turn it off under:

General -> Live Plus -> go in and turn all sliders off, click "delete all information"
-> Who.Where.What (slider off)
-> Content Recommendations (slider off)
..Delete all information

Next time you go there the main slider will be off under
General -> Live Plus

Then under general again...

General ->
-> Additional settings -> Do not sell my information

====================================================

I wouldn't disconnect from the network because the youtube HDR app works nicely on the LG. My shield doesn't have the chip for the youtube VP9 codec HDR method.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VP9#Hardware_implementations

I also use the voice assistant. It's very handy and requires network connection to be used fully.

In my case I'm using the Lg CX in a multi monitor array where it's being used as a media/gaming stage so it's not displaying any desktop windows that would be captured normally either. Just videos, games (and maybe some art slideshows once in awhile).

If you aren't using script blockers on your pc, phone, tablet, etc (and if you are using voice assistants like alexa, google assistant, samsung) you all getting data aggregation already but I can see where you would be even more concerned with screenshots of a pc that could have sensitive financial information etc. Consider how many images are stored in the cache of a single pc at times then imagine a full network of LG and other TV's with even an intermittent screenshot repository. I'm pretty sure it's just AI skimming for themes so they can pump you with advertising and suggested next videos/links and to fill in wildcard frames of sites with targeted advertising rather than someone actually going through all of those screenshots with human eyes. (Not that they couldn't AI skim for financial/personal info if they wanted to code for it). Still I turn all that stuff off and I use script blockers to block facebook, google, twitter etc scripts that are in the background on a lot of web sites wherever possible.
 
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Indeed I’ll probably do that now that I have a shield.

Maybe. I was comparing scenes and just feel it oversharpens a bit much. With subtitles on it creates fringes around the letters too. Disappointing since I know ai/ml based up scaling can be much better. Maybe the shield isn’t powerful enough for the better shaders.

I'll mess with it eventually. I'm pretty sure I could take a named setting on the TV and unsharpen it to a slight anti-aliasing effect for a slightly less aggressive sharpening look as an end result. I wouldn't want to go too far to where it would muddy anything else to where it was obvious though.

....I'd just tell the LG remote to switch to that unsharpened named setting on the tv whenever I was running 1080p content on the shield then tell it to go back to the regular setting for the shield when I launch 4k. So two settings for shield. When I tell it to go back to PC it would go back to the original PC settings and pc hdmi input automatically.
 
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For me it looks great but I can see how your personal taste could prefer it less sharp. When I get a chance I'll mess with the named TV setting sometime like I said and I'll report back but I think you doing it yourself would probably be a better test since it is your personal taste regarding the sharpening amount.

Another contributing factor to things like text subsampling and graphics/video aliasing is how far you sit from the screen. The 20/20 vision threshold for 4k 48" starts at
33.5" viewing distance and 64 degree viewing angle for a 48" 16:9 4k screen.

(from my other replies):

Sitting any closer will be much poorer text and aliasing. You can try to compensate with aggressive AA and try to tweak subpixel sampling on text but it's still not optimal.

While
33.5" - 60 PPD - 64deg is the nearest you can sit while still within the 20/20 vision threshold, personally I think what's best for this screen is:

38" -- 41" - 44.4" - 48" view distance
66.6 - 72 -- 76 - -- 81.5 PPD
58 - - 54 -- 50 --- 47 degree horizontal viewing angle

https://www.talkandroid.com/guides/android-tv-guides/nvidia-shield-tv-ai-upscaling/
Worth it?
The short answer? Usually, yes, NVIDIA’s AI-upscaling does a pretty good job of taking old or lower resolution content and sharpening it to look better on modern TVs. I’ve tested everything on a Sony Bravia X900F, which is a pretty nice TV that can do its own upscaling reasonably well. NVIDIA still does it better.
But most importantly, it also does it without ruining the image. Sometimes upscaling just oversharpens everything and makes it pretty gross looking, but this machine learning methodology behind the AI upscaling seems like it keeps things looking a little more natural.
 
You can turn it off under:

General -> Live Plus -> go in and turn all sliders off, click "delete all information"
-> Who.Where.What (slider off)
-> Content Recommendations (slider off)
..Delete all information

Next time you go there the main slider will be off under
General -> Live Plus

Then under general again...

General ->
-> Additional settings -> Do not sell my information
I don't have those options on my CX 48 at all. No Live Plus option. Perhaps they are not legal under Finnish laws.
 
I don't have those options on my CX 48 at all. No Live Plus option. Perhaps they are not legal under Finnish laws.

some of those are under "general/ AI Service / AI Recommendation"
..Who.Where.What (on/off slider)
..content recommendations (on/off slider)
..Network-Based Personalization Recommendations (on/off slider)
..[Delete Usage Data]... (button)

Also under "General-->AI Service ---> Voice Recognition settings --> Voice Response (Voice search results and TV responses are spoken aloud) ---> on/off toggle slider
... that is if you don't want the TV to reply to you audibly (it's loud on my system)

-------------------------------------

General --> Additional Settings --> Live Plus (on/off toggle slider)
.... that turns off the screen capturing, "spying"

Scroll down farther from
General--> additional settings,,, to get to ----> " Do Not Sell My Personal Information"

There is an "Advertisement" setting if you scroll down under "Additional settings" past the bottom of the menu list .. (on the usa one at least).. "Activating this option will stop tracking of ad-related personal data from this smart TV. Turning on the toggle may impact the types of ads you see going forward, but it will not stop you from receiving ads"




and "Link to Google Account" if you want it tied to your google (e.g. you have another google assistant at home for example) and youtube but I think you can log in to youtube separately on the app anyway.



--------------------------------

So you can turn all of the more invasive stuff off. You do have to be connected online in order to use the google assistant/voice commands though I think and any time you are using an assistant you are getting data aggregation from your commands/searches. You can delete that history though (you can also delete it on amazon alexa/echo accounts/devices). The benefit of using the mic and having an assistant on the tv is very good so I am all about using that. I turned all of the other stuff off though.
Also, like I said before, I only use the LG CX as a media and gaming screen so I don't have web browsers and apps with financial/personal information on the LG to start with.

https://support.google.com/assistant/answer/7108295?co=GENIE.Platform=Android&hl=en

Delete your Google Assistant activity​

Your Google Assistant stores your past activity to do things like remember your interests and give more personalized responses. You can find or delete your past activity at any time.
Learn more about how we secure and protect your data in the Google Safety Center.
..

Delete activity with your voice​

You can ask your Google Assistant to delete activity from your account.
For example, you can say:
  • “Hey Google, delete my last conversation.”
  • “Hey Google, delete today’s activity.”
  • “Hey Google, delete this week’s activity.”
  • "Hey Google, that wasn't for you" to delete the last thing you said.
Learn more about how your activity is deleted.
Android iPhone & iPad

Delete a specific activity​

You can delete an individual item, like something you asked your Google Assistant to remember.
In your conversation (phone only)
In your Google Account

Delete all Assistant activity at once​

Important: When you delete all activity, it can take a day before the activity is deleted from your other devices.
  1. Go to your Google Account's Assistant activity page. If you haven't already, sign in to your Google Account.
  2. At the top right, on the "Google Assistant" banner, tap More Delete activity by.
  3. Under "Delete activity by," choose All time.
  4. Tap Delete.
  5. To confirm, tap Delete.
 
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Are you running the TV in PC mode with black level at full range? Does the color space in the NVIDIA control panel show RGB or YCbCr444 when HDR is enabled? Is the dynamic range set to full?
I never use HDR because it always looks like crap to me. I tried it with this game and no different. No matter what color settings I use, the game has super saturated blues and reds and it looks awful. I don't know if it's a Windows HDR thing or what.

So far setting Black Level in the TV settings to "Low" seems to be the best fix.
 
some of those are under "general/ AI Service / AI Recommendation"
..Who.Where.What (on/off slider)
..content recommendations (on/off slider)
..Network-Based Personalization Recommendations (on/off slider)
..[Delete Usage Data]... (button)

Also under "General-->AI Service ---> Voice Recognition settings --> Voice Response (Voice search results and TV responses are spoken aloud) ---> on/off toggle slider
... that is if you don't want the TV to reply to you audibly (it's loud on my system)

-------------------------------------

General --> Additional Settings --> Live Plus (on/off toggle slider)
.... that turns off the screen capturing, "spying"

Scroll down farther from
General--> additional settings,,, to get to ----> " Do Not Sell My Personal Information"

There is an "Advertisement" setting if you scroll down under "Additional settings" past the bottom of the menu list .. (on the usa one at least).. "Activating this option will stop tracking of ad-related personal data from this smart TV. Turning on the toggle may impact the types of ads you see going forward, but it will not stop you from receiving ads"
I have never accepted the terms for voice so maybe that's why I don't have some of these things. I only have a "Content recommendations" toggle "based on your app usage". Live plus does not exist and advertisement section just lets me reset the ID and toggle a "do not track" setting.

I'm guessing this might be some regional difference.
 
I never use HDR because it always looks like crap to me. I tried it with this game and no different. No matter what color settings I use, the game has super saturated blues and reds and it looks awful. I don't know if it's a Windows HDR thing or what.

So far setting Black Level in the TV settings to "Low" seems to be the best fix.
If it looks super saturated then something might be going wrong and it's not correctly activating HDR. I've had this sort of thing happen in RDR2 a few times.
 
I never use HDR because it always looks like crap to me. I tried it with this game and no different. No matter what color settings I use, the game has super saturated blues and reds and it looks awful. I don't know if it's a Windows HDR thing or what.

So far setting Black Level in the TV settings to "Low" seems to be the best fix.
Agree with kasakka that you should not be seeing this kind of saturation. Note that you have to calibrate the color for the TV separately with HDR turned on.
 
Agree with kasakka that you should not be seeing this kind of saturation. Note that you have to calibrate the color for the TV separately with HDR turned on.
If it looks super saturated then something might be going wrong and it's not correctly activating HDR. I've had this sort of thing happen in RDR2 a few times.

Yep, I have not properly calibrated the TV. Everything SDR looks so great to me that I haven't bothered. Perhaps an investment into a good calibrator is in order, if proper HDR will look that much better. Thanks for the help fellas.
 
Yep, I have not properly calibrated the TV. Everything SDR looks so great to me that I haven't bothered. Perhaps an investment into a good calibrator is in order, if proper HDR will look that much better. Thanks for the help fellas.
It should not require anything more than using the Warm 2 color preset really. The oversaturation mainly happens if the GPU is sending the TV a signal and the TV thinks it's receiving a different color space, black level etc. First thing I would try is toggling the black level. Usually the easiest way to see that it's doing something weird is if white seem to blow out or blacks are not blending to the bezel.

Spam the green button or go to HDMI diagnostics to see what it's receiving.
 
I've had my LG CX for roughly a year, so hopefully I am well qualified to post my thoughts on it at this point.

I've done numerous comparisons between it and my old Dell 27" 1440P 144hz GSYNC monitor. The conclusion is... there is no comparison. The LG CX blows it away in all areas. Motion handling, brightness, contrast, color... the list goes on. The LG CX wipes the floor with my old GSYNC monitor.

The more interesting comparison happens when you compare the LG CX to an LCD-based tech. In this case, I am comparing the LG CX vs Samsung Q90R, the 2019 Samsung competitor to the LG C9. I will cover the high points on each.



LG CX:
  • PC Gaming - This thing is a gaming BEAST! Input lag is minimal, GSYNC is incredible, Pixel response is nearly instantaneous, etc. For gaming, the LG CX goes head-to-head with some of the best gaming monitors out there.
  • HDR - For HDR content, this thing pops. Absolute brightness is not the highest of any TV out there, but what makes it so incredible is its contrast; you can have one pixel at 0 and another pixel right next to it all full brightness. When you see it, it's painfully beautiful.
  • Tech Support - LG should be given an award for post-purchase support. This TV had major issues with HDMI 2.1, and they corrected all of them, and did so fairly quickly. That's what I want in a SmartTV, and as long as LG continues that level of support, I will GLADLY buy their products.

Samsung Q90R:
  • Console Gaming - I don't know why, but all consoles I've tried on the Q90R just look better, even in game mode, compared to the CX. It's obvious that Samsung designed the Q90R with console gaming in mind; it all works really well.
  • SDR - NOW HOLD ON A SECOND!!! How is this possible?!?!?! The LG CX only gets up to 750-nits, while the Q90R gets up to an eye-watering 1500-nits peak brightness. That makes no sense!!! Actually, it does because, IMO, nits are a useless measurement when comparing a TV's ability to output HDR content. What you should be looking for is contrast between the darkest and brightest points, and the fact is that an FALD LCD display will never be able to match the contrast of an OLED panel. Because of this, HDR pops harder in high contrast areas on the LG CX. But we're talking about SDR, and in this case, the Samsung Q90R has more natural looking color. It's not as punchy as the LG CX, but it is much more pleasing and, dare I say, realistic on the Q90R.
  • Upscaling - This goes back to console gaming. The built-in resolution upscaler on the Q90R is really good. It gets very close to making a 1080P image look like Native 4K with some AA on top of it. My stock PS4 looks like a blurry mess on my LG CX, but the picture is clean and beautiful on the Q90R. The Q90R also handles macro-blocking far better in super dark scenes (although in absolute black, the LG CX is the champ by far).

The LG CX does really good at being a computer monitor, but I dare say that the Q90R does a better job at being a TV. It stings a little to admit that because the LG CX has a wow factor about it that is lacking in the Q90R.... but the Q90R still sits in my living room and I have absolutely no plans to replace it with an OLED. It's a gorgeous display, one that is most definitely a Samsung flagship QLED TV.
 
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What can I do aside from autohide taskbar, minute on 1min rotation and Blank 1 minute screensaver?
-Is there a way to speed up and down the terrible taskbar autohide?
-Is there a way to autohide whole top of chrome (tabs, bookmarks, search bar) and reappear on mouse over or something ?
Yeah, I use dark theme where possible
 
What can I do aside from autohide taskbar, minute on 1min rotation and Blank 1 minute screensaver?
-Is there a way to speed up and down the terrible taskbar autohide?
-Is there a way to autohide whole top of chrome (tabs, bookmarks, search bar) and reappear on mouse over or something ?
Yeah, I use dark theme where possible
Windows dark theme
Black background (no rotating pictures)
Dark reader addon for your browser
If you have small second monitor move your taskbar and icons there.
If no 2nd monitor autohide taskbar and remove all static icons from desktop
Auto turn off monitor if computer is inactive for a few minutes

The basic idea is simple. Do not light up any pixels you are not using. Every pixel has a finite lifetime so do not waste it.
 
Windows dark theme
Black background (no rotating pictures)
Dark reader addon for your browser
If you have small second monitor move your taskbar and icons there.
If no 2nd monitor autohide taskbar and remove all static icons from desktop
Auto turn off monitor if computer is inactive for a few minutes

The basic idea is simple. Do not light up any pixels you are not using. Every pixel has a finite lifetime so do not waste it.
What about that 1 pixel strip when the taskbar is hiding?
 
I just leave the one pixel strip and ignore it. Make the taskbar a darker shade and just go with it.

Be common sense here... since the 1 pixel strip is the LAST strip on the bottom, you won't ever really be able to see damage to those pixels even IF it happens. Which it won't in any meaningful timeframe if you keep your SDR brightness sane.
 
I've had my LG CX for roughly a year, so hopefully I am well qualified to post my thoughts on it at this point.

I've done numerous comparisons between it and my old Dell 27" 1440P 144hz GSYNC monitor. The conclusion is... there is no comparison. The LG CX blows it away in all areas. Motion handling, brightness, contrast, color... the list goes on. The LG CX wipes the floor with my old GSYNC monitor.

The more interesting comparison happens when you compare the LG CX to an LCD-based tech. In this case, I am comparing the LG CX vs Samsung Q90R, the 2019 Samsung competitor to the LG C9. I will cover the high points on each.



LG CX:
  • PC Gaming - This thing is a gaming BEAST! Input lag is minimal, GSYNC is incredible, Pixel response is nearly instantaneous, etc. For gaming, the LG CX goes head-to-head with some of the best gaming monitors out there.
  • HDR - For HDR content, this thing pops. Absolute brightness is not the highest of any TV out there, but what makes it so incredible is its contrast; you can have one pixel at 0 and another pixel right next to it all full brightness. When you see it, it's painfully beautiful.
  • Tech Support - LG should be given an award for post-purchase support. This TV had major issues with HDMI 2.1, and they corrected all of them, and did so fairly quickly. That's what I want in a SmartTV, and as long as LG continues that level of support, I will GLADLY buy their products.

Samsung Q90R:
  • Console Gaming - I don't know why, but all consoles I've tried on the Q90R just look better, even in game mode, compared to the CX. It's obvious that Samsung designed the Q90R with console gaming in mind; it all works really well.
  • SDR - NOW HOLD ON A SECOND!!! How is this possible?!?!?! The LG CX only gets up to 750-nits, while the Q90R gets up to an eye-watering 1500-nits peak brightness. That makes no sense!!! Actually, it does because, IMO, nits are a useless measurement when comparing a TV's ability to output HDR content. What you should be looking for is contrast between the darkest and brightest points, and the fact is that an FALD LCD display will never be able to match the contrast of an OLED panel. Because of this, HDR pops harder in high contrast areas on the LG CX. But we're talking about SDR, and in this case, the Samsung Q90R has more natural looking color. It's not as punchy as the LG CX, but it is much more pleasing and, dare I say, realistic on the Q90R.
  • Upscaling - This goes back to console gaming. The built-in resolution upscaler on the Q90R is really good. It gets very close to making a 1080P image look like Native 4K with some AA on top of it. My stock PS4 looks like a blurry mess on my LG CX, but the picture is clean and beautiful on the Q90R. The Q90R also handles macro-blocking far better in super dark scenes (although in absolute black, the LG CX is the champ by far).

The LG CX does really good at being a computer monitor, but I dare say that the Q90R does a better job at being a TV. It stings a little to admit that because the LG CX has a wow factor about it that is lacking in the Q90R.... but the Q90R still sits in my living room and I have absolutely no plans to replace it with an OLED. It's a gorgeous display, one that is most definitely a Samsung flagship QLED TV.

I get a lot of sunlight on the back of my living room tv and my wife's usage habits aren't really OLED friendly. OLED are more sensitive to heat since they are organic. Eventually I'll remodel/re-arrange the room so the tv is on the opposite wall but all things considered I might not put an oled in the living room whenever I get around to upgrading that tv.

LCD are brighter but you trade-off for zone lighting with glow/dim halos which end up losing details and detail in colors. That is especially where their quoted nits would otherwise matter more in HDR but since each zone can't overpower the other it ends up actually losing and muting details and not operating at that full nit range outside of a few overall bright scenes.. Also LCD response times are poor compared to OLED. Some of the more recent LCD models also have a viewing angle filter layer on them which destroys there contrast ratios.

People typically watch living room tvs in a lot of sunlight during the day too.. where HDR material is really designed for a dark home theatre and movie theater environment and OLEDs look best in dim to dark viewing conditions to start with. There are settings you can change to make up for this on modern OLED TVs but you are are modifying to suit a poorer viewing environment.

If you watch HDRtest's heat map videos of star wars and other movies you'd see that a lot of a scene remains in the "monochrome" sdr range and also within the 750-800nit and lower range for HDR highlights. That's not saying that a 10k nit OLED or superminimicro-nano LED at pixel level lighting/emitting would not look more realistic overall with 10k nit content showing color detail that scales higher in the > 800 nit ranges but it's something to consider when talking about HDR along with, like you said, emissive based per pixel side by side contrast and ultimate/"infinitie" black depth.

7X2ncu9.png




kaag2Cm.jpg

some movie scenes and highlights in particular movies (bladerunner 2049 is one of the few mastered to 10k nit) and scenes in some games can technically map higher but there are no 10k displays yet to do what this image below is showing so it would still be tone mapped and after a set nit cutoff then compressed in a short range above that to the peak nits of whatever display. I still look forward to future HDR 10k screens with per pixel contrast someday though.

jE1pSgZ.jpg
 
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What can I do aside from autohide taskbar, minute on 1min rotation and Blank 1 minute screensaver?
-Is there a way to speed up and down the terrible taskbar autohide?
-Is there a way to autohide whole top of chrome (tabs, bookmarks, search bar) and reappear on mouse over or something ?
Yeah, I use dark theme where possible

you can also use the taskbarhider app and put the recycle bin on the taskbar itself, toggling the taskbar to show/hide with a hotkey.

taskbarhider
http://www.itsamples.com/taskbar-hider.html

translucent taskbar
https://github.com/TranslucentTB/TranslucentTB

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/translucenttb/9pf4kz2vn4w9?activetab=pivot:overviewtab



How to Pin Fully Functional Recycle Bin to the Taskbar in Windows 10

https://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/29497-pin-recycle-bin-taskbar-windows-10-a.html
taskbar-windows-10-a-pin_to_taskbar_recycle_bin-7b.png


or

https://technastic.com/pin-recycle-bin-to-taskbar-in-windows/

If using multiple monitors you can also unlock and drag the taskbar to a side monitor. I keep mine on the top of my tall portrait mode monitor on the right side of the LG CX. When I turn all my monitors~TVs on for the first time I have to re-drag the taskbar over though which is a little annoying. I still toggle hide/show it with the taskbarhider hotkey and it is translucent.

===================================================

To save me from digging through 180+ pages

Here I dug up a few replies of mine that give my take on a few things. I waited to buy until most of the issues (all the major ones really) were fixed with firmware patches. This is by far the best multimedia and gaming oriented screen I've owned I'm extremely happy with it.

There are a lot of repeat Q & A's in this thread as more people interested in buying are making inquiries. Which is fine but if you do a search on this thread for things like text, viewing distance, screensaver, burn in , burn-in etc you'd find most of the answers you are looking for.and people's opinions in the surrounding replies.

I wouldn't trust operating system screen savers.

From about one page back in this thread::

screen savers / avoiding static content where possible

https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/post-1044971422
...Taskbar hider set to a hotkey to lock the taskbar away (show/hide toggle). Translucent taskbar app to make it and it's edge see-through.

...Dark themes in windows and browsers/browser add-ons ("color changer", "turn off the lights") to make the backgrounds dark on a per site basis..
...True black (empty of art) desktop wallpaper.

...Low (relatively low to SDR levels) HDR brightness on desktop using the HDR color control menu slider.
...Keep all the burn-in reduction tech on (like Derangel said), including ABL, ASBL, logo dimming, etc.

...Activate the remote's voice functions so that you can hold down the mic button and tell it to "turn off the screen" (which leaves everything running and just turns off the emitters after a 5 second countdown). I do that any time I walk away from my pc (afk) even if just for a minute because I can get sidetracked and/or forget that I left a game running in a static/paused state on the tv.

...Don't rely on pc/android etc system screensavers because systems/apps/video device itself can crash/freeze rarely. Crashed app notifaction windows can take top layer above a screen saver. Stuck on bios screen (or even just the log on screen) on a spontaneous reboot can happen too. You might want to change your logon screen too for this reason. A lot of 3rd party apps let you customize the logon screen.

...I think the best thing you can do besides that (other than buying at bestbuy and adding the bestbuy warranty that reportedly covers burn-in for ~ $66/yr over 5 yrs) is to use a 2nd monitor for static desktop/apps and keep the OLED usage scenario as a gaming/video/multimedia "stage".

Screen dimming will turn on by default if you leave a static screen on for too long though and it's pretty dim so that would will definitely help already aside from doing all of the above. That doesn't happen the same when people turn off dimming when trying to use the OLED as a static app/desktop monitor. If you keep a set of settings just for desktop that is well below the ABL level then you will avoid ABL but you won't avoid ASBL unless you go into the service menu and disable it.

---------------------------------------------------------------

I'm pretty sure this info from Rtings.com 's C9 OLED review would still work:
The C9 has a new Peak Brightness setting, which adjusts how the ABL performs. Setting this to 'Off' results in most scenes being displayed at around 303 cd/m², unless the entire screen is bright, in which case the luminosity drops to around 139 cd/m². Increasing this setting to 'Low', 'Med', or 'High' increases the peak brightness of small highlights. If ABL bothers you, setting the contrast to '80' and setting Peak Brightness to 'Off' essentially disables ABL, but the peak brightness is quite a bit lower (246-258 cd/m² in all scenes).

Otherwise just keeping HDR on all of the time on the desktop and turning the HDR Color slider down low enough should do similar and wouldn't affect the color brightness scaling for HDR content/metadata - so that is what most people do I think. I keep the HDR slider down to where SDR images still pop, so more like a SDR image level of color brightness/nits but some people set this brightness slider very low because they use a lot of static text based stuff on their screen since it is usually their only screen in that case.
-----------
-----------
View distance vs. text quality and AA

https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/post-1044972495
20/20 vision threshold is 60 PPD which starts at (meaning no closer than)
33.5" viewing distance and 64 degree viewing angle for a 48" 16:9 4k screen (and starts at ~1.5' on a 27" 4k)

Sitting any closer will be much poorer text and aliasing. You can try to compensate with aggressive AA and try to tweak subpixel sampling on text but it's still not optimal.

While
33.5" - 60 PPD - 64deg is the nearest you can sit while still within the 20/20 vision threshold, personally I think what's best for this screen is:

38" -- 41" - 44.4" - 48" view distance
66.6 - 72 -- 76 - -- 81.5 PPD
58 - - 54 -- 50 --- 47 degree horizontal viewing angle

--------

WOLED contributes to text issues like others have said but if you are sitting closer than the 20/20 vision threshold your text/subsampling and graphics aliasing are going to be bad regardless to start with - requiring more aggressive attempts at cleartype work arounds and more aggressive AA in games just attempting to get back to what you'd be seeing at 33.5" to 48" away .
 
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-Is there a way to autohide whole top of chrome (tabs, bookmarks, search bar) and reappear on mouse over or something ?
If you make chrome fullscreen it will hide it's interface/bars. You could probably use the F11 hotkey to pop it back and forth from fullscreen and set that to a mouse button or a streamdeck button if you have one. Might be able to remap that hotkey to something else too if you look into it. The problem with that is that it would be the whole width of the screen when fullscreen which isn't optimal imo.
You can use F11 to enter the fullscreen view which allows you to hide the address bar and the tabs easily. And you can change tabs in the fullscreen mode by pressing CTRL+TAB(change to the right tab) and CTRL+SHIFT+TAB(change to the left tab).

---------------------------

This addon also removes the interface when you open a tab or a link as a pop-out. Unfortunately it leaves a black named bar at the top of the window (plus min/restore/X) .. but you can set it to auto open fullscreen or you can try to set up a window position that keeps that top bar scrolled off of the top of the screen but even by default with the black bar it's better than having the whole chrome UI on top.

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/open-as-popup/ncppfjladdkdaemaghochfikpmghbcpc/related

Open-as-Popup settings​

Please read my settings introduction where I explain all the settings in detail.

Position and size of the new popup window​

Let the browser internal window manager define position and size.
Copy the position and size of the previous window.
Only if previous window state was normal (not maximized or fullscreen).
Copy previous window state (normal, maximized, fullscreen)

Tab index when attached back to a normal window​

Before the first tab.
After the last tab.
After the current active tab.

Keyboard shortcut​

Define a keyboard shortcut to toggle to and back from a popup window. The default is "Alt + 0".

There might be a few other addons that would help but would take a little searching.


If you want to get a little more creative you could use displayfusion app to set up a few positions for chrome that place the window so that the top of the browser is off screen and then back again. Set up a function to move a chrome window's top bars offscreen and back as a toggle with a hotkey tied to it. That way you wouldn't have to use full browser width in fullscreen but it takes a little tinkering with pre-built functions in displayfusion pro.

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I use side monitors so I don't bother with having app windows on my OLED much but hope that might help a little.
 
I also neglected to mention that if you use firefox full screen, it will hide the interface/top bars automatically and when you mouse over they will pop back down so that is probably your easiest fix. Chrome doesn't behave the same way. It still doesn't solve the full frame full screen width issue but otherwise works well. I use both firefox and chrome with select addons on my system incidentally.
 
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Man after using the Aorus FI27Q-X for some time with its 109ppi it's really hard to play games on the 48CX with its mere 93ppi. The extra pixel density is so sharp and nice to look at.

Furthermore, even though the panel of the OLED is superior on paper to IPS panels, the Aorus SS-IPS is extremly vibrant to my eyes and yet again makes the image very appealing to the point I am finding it hard to want to go back and game on the CX. Yes call me krazi, but I am almost preferring the Aorus for gaming over the CX.

Only let down is the Arous is a mere 27". Where the hell are all the (16:9) 32+ inch 4K panels with high quality IPS panels (nano or SS) and atleast 144hz?? There literally is none?

Only ones I can think of are the yet to be released PG32UQX and Acer X32 and the Gigabyte FI32U. There seems to be a massive gap in the market.
 
Man after using the Aorus FI27Q-X for some time with its 109ppi it's really hard to play games on the 48CX with its mere 93ppi. The extra pixel density is so sharp and nice to look at.

Furthermore, even though the panel of the OLED is superior on paper to IPS panels, the Aorus SS-IPS is extremly vibrant to my eyes and yet again makes the image very appealing to the point I am finding it hard to want to go back and game on the CX. Yes call me krazi, but I am almost preferring the Aorus for gaming over the CX.

Only let down is the Arous is a mere 27". Where the hell are all the (16:9) 32+ inch 4K panels with high quality IPS panels (nano or SS) and atleast 144hz?? There literally is none?

Only ones I can think of are the yet to be released PG32UQX and Acer X32 and the Gigabyte FI32U. There seems to be a massive gap in the market.

I recommend investing in having your setup capable of sitting farther from the CX comfortably (using different desk, tv floor stand, etc. whatever it takes). 48" screens are not suited for sitting up against a wall like a bookshelf or reading sheet music on top of an upright piano.

The PPD of a 48" 4k viewed at 33.5" to your eyeballs is exactly the same as a 27" 4k at 1.5'.
Any closer than that and text subsampling and graphics aliasing is going to be poorer than normal.

33.5" distance on a 48" 4k = 1.5" distance on a 27" 4k = 60 PPD.

I sit 38" to 48" away which is 72 to 81.5 PPD so I am getting in effect a higher pixel density than a 27" 4k at 1.5' viewing distance.

20/20 vision threshold is 60 PPD which starts at (meaning no closer than)
33.5" viewing distance and 64 degree viewing angle for a 48" 16:9 4k screen (and starts at ~1.5' on a 27" 4k)

Sitting any closer will be much poorer text and aliasing. You can try to compensate with aggressive AA and try to tweak subpixel sampling on text but it's still not optimal.

While
33.5" - 60 PPD - 64deg is the nearest you can sit while still within the 20/20 vision threshold, personally I think what's best for this screen is:

38" -- 41" - 44.4" - 48" view distance
66.6 - 72 -- 76 - -- 81.5 PPD
58 - - 54 -- 50 --- 47 degree horizontal viewing angle

--------
WOLED contributes to text issues like others have said but if you are sitting closer than the 20/20 vision threshold your text/subsampling and graphics aliasing are going to be bad regardless to start with - requiring more aggressive attempts at cleartype work arounds and more aggressive AA in games just attempting to get back to what you'd be seeing at 33.5" to 48" away .
 
There are these being developed that would probably be better suited to people who have near seating limitation:

https://www.tftcentral.co.uk/blog/a...gies-including-4k-144hz-oled-and-8k4k-panels/

32″ 4K inkjet printing OLED panel with 144Hz​

While pursuing innovation in display technology, AUO commits to energy conservation and environmental sustainability, and continues to develop inkjet printing OLED technology, which has a higher material utilization rate than traditional evaporation techniques. AUO’s 32-inch UHD 4K inkjet printing OLED panel is driven by oxide backplane and offers industry-leading ultra-high frame rate of 144Hz with 4K 140 PPI resolution. The inkjet printing OLED technology will meet the increasing demand for high image quality and high

they are using an antiglare of some type though

... and idk if HDR and on same level as LG HDR tvs feature wise. I didn't see any mention of HDR at all at this point.
 
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Man after using the Aorus FI27Q-X for some time with its 109ppi it's really hard to play games on the 48CX with its mere 93ppi. The extra pixel density is so sharp and nice to look at.

Furthermore, even though the panel of the OLED is superior on paper to IPS panels, the Aorus SS-IPS is extremly vibrant to my eyes and yet again makes the image very appealing to the point I am finding it hard to want to go back and game on the CX. Yes call me krazi, but I am almost preferring the Aorus for gaming over the CX.

Only let down is the Arous is a mere 27". Where the hell are all the (16:9) 32+ inch 4K panels with high quality IPS panels (nano or SS) and atleast 144hz?? There literally is none?

Only ones I can think of are the yet to be released PG32UQX and Acer X32 and the Gigabyte FI32U. There seems to be a massive gap in the market.
You sure you were not running the FI27Q-X with oversaturated color? Were both displays calibrated?
 
You can make different named sets of settings on TVs so even if you didn't accurately calibrate them you could fiddle around and match them to how you'd like to see them in games on one throw-away named setting.

I'd also recommend first trying nvidia freestyle which is an easy overlay of sliders that control shaders like reshade. It can add vibrancy and a ton of other adjustments in games. For games not supported you could probably still use reshade which is still pretty easy to use itself. Freestyle (or reshade) remembers the settings on a per game basis so you can have different settings for a cell shaded/simple textured or platformer, high detail game, dark game, etc. It goes back to your normal desktop settings once you exit the game so you aren't messing with your standard setup for desktop/images/videos outside of games. In fact you couldn't if you wanted to b/c it only works on directX rendering but it's nice to be able to alter games without changing your display settings.

DTHOWsNXUAEknDk.jpg

Using either a screen OSD's named settings or with freestyle/reshade filters you can tweak to a custom look you might be aiming for while still being able to keep other settings or your default settings available for viewing other material/desktop.
 
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Yes, but it does not change PPI. You would be running a resolution like 3840x1600 which would be just narrower vertically.
Read that HDR would be disabled in the comments unless you (unverified) disable G-Sync. Seems like a huge trade off to me.
 
You sure you were not running the FI27Q-X with oversaturated color? Were both displays calibrated?
No, but I did increase the vibrance setting in NVCP by 10%.

Both displays out of the box, i think the Aorus is factory calibrated. The image just looks so sharp and pretty compared to the CX. Obviously a fully blown HDR game like Resident Evil 2 Remake or Horizon Zero Dawn craps all over the Aorus, but HDR aside I kind of prefer the Aorus image.
 
No, but I did increase the vibrance setting in NVCP by 10%.

Both displays out of the box, i think the Aorus is factory calibrated. The image just looks so sharp and pretty compared to the CX. Obviously a fully blown HDR game like Resident Evil 2 Remake or Horizon Zero Dawn craps all over the Aorus, but HDR aside I kind of prefer the Aorus image.
The example Rtings reviewed showed the out-of-the-box settings on the CX to be out of whack. All the colors were inaccurate, the gamma curve was way off, and the white point was too warm.

1621538608518.png


The Gigabyte on the other hand benefitted from its factory calibration, only being too cool on the white point.
 
Man after using the Aorus FI27Q-X for some time with its 109ppi it's really hard to play games on the 48CX with its mere 93ppi. The extra pixel density is so sharp and nice to look at.

Furthermore, even though the panel of the OLED is superior on paper to IPS panels, the Aorus SS-IPS is extremly vibrant to my eyes and yet again makes the image very appealing to the point I am finding it hard to want to go back and game on the CX. Yes call me krazi, but I am almost preferring the Aorus for gaming over the CX.

Only let down is the Arous is a mere 27". Where the hell are all the (16:9) 32+ inch 4K panels with high quality IPS panels (nano or SS) and atleast 144hz?? There literally is none?

Only ones I can think of are the yet to be released PG32UQX and Acer X32 and the Gigabyte FI32U. There seems to be a massive gap in the market.

Lol the Nintendo Switch has over 230 PPI, do games look insanely sharp and crisp on that?
 
Actually, they kind of do ;)

Some games like BOTW has insane jaggies for being on a >230PPI screen. And I believe handheld mode runs at it's native 720p resolution too. Meanwhile, running the same game on CEMU at 4k on a "measly" 93ppi screen, game looks WAY sharper.
 
It's not measely at all. You have to go by PPD.

At 33.5" viewing distance the pixels are just as tight to your eyes and brain on a 48" 4k as they are at ~ 1.5' away on a 27" 4k screen.

The viewing angle is also the same of course. The 20/20 vision threshold starts there. Any closer will be compromised pixel subsampling and graphics aliasing compared to that. Pixels will look too large like running 1440p on a 31.5" screen up close. So the key is having a computer and room setup, desk, tv stand etc that allows you to view the 48 CX properly.

In addition to 33.5" starting point for 20/20..
At 38" viewing distance you get the same PPD on a 48"4k as a 27" 4k looks at ~ 21.4" away.
At 48" viewing distance you get the same PPD on a 48" 4k as a 27" 4k looks at 27" away.

So the ppi of the 48 CX at the proper distance is not an issue at all. At 33.5", the 20/20 vision threshold, it appears exactly the same as 27" 4k at 1.5' viewing distance. In fact the PPD and effective pixel density to your eyes can be higher than a 27" 4k (at 1.5') when viewing the 48 CX at 38" - 48".
 
It's not measely at all. You have to go by PPD.

At 33.5" viewing distance the pixels are just as tight to your eyes and brain on a 48" 4k as they are at ~ 1.5' away on a 27" 4k screen.

The viewing angle is also the same of course. The 20/20 vision threshold starts there. Any closer will be compromised pixel subsampling and graphics aliasing compared to that. Pixels will look too large like running 1440p on a 31.5" screen up close. So the key is having a computer and room setup, desk, tv stand etc that allows you to view the 48 CX properly.

In addition to 33.5" starting point for 20/20..
At 38" viewing distance you get the same PPD on a 48"4k as a 27" 4k looks at ~ 21.4" away.
At 48" viewing distance you get the same PPD on a 48" 4k as a 27" 4k looks at 27" away.

So the ppi of the 48 CX at the proper distance is not an issue at all. At 33.5", the 20/20 vision threshold, it appears exactly the same as 27" 4k at 1.5' viewing distance. In fact the PPD and effective pixel density to your eyes can be higher than a 27" 4k (at 1.5') when viewing the 48 CX at 38" - 48".

I meant measely in a sarcastic sense hence the quotes lol 😅
 
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