mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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If you want whites in Windows to sear your retinas just enable HDR and don't turn the SDR content slider in the HDR options down, lol.
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
- Start date
I thought you want to keep "Play hadr games and apps" slider to on? Where is the SDR content slider?
This is what I'm running:
Picture mode - Game
Oled Light 100, Contrast 100, Brightness 60, Sharpness 5, Color 55, Tint 0, Dynamic Contrast Low, Dynamic Tone Mapping Off, Super Res Off, Color Gamut Auto, White Balance Warm 1
In Picture Options, I seem to like Black Level High
Energy Saving Off
Eye Comfort Off
HDMI UHD Deep Color On
What font size scale are you running? 100%?150%?
Lateralus
More [H]uman than Human
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- Aug 7, 2004
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- 18,494
100% here. I'll only use scaling if I have to (like a 15" 4K laptop screen).
What was your previous LCD? It might help to compare the brightness/luminance levels that it's capable of vs. the CX. Personally, I think those higher OLED light settings are REALLY bright. I've been running the Dark windows theme along with dark browser modes/extensions where possible, so maybe I've just acclimated myself to the point where the windows that you're talking about appear very bright and white because there's such an extreme contrast from my desktop background and other windows.
What was your previous LCD? It might help to compare the brightness/luminance levels that it's capable of vs. the CX. Personally, I think those higher OLED light settings are REALLY bright. I've been running the Dark windows theme along with dark browser modes/extensions where possible, so maybe I've just acclimated myself to the point where the windows that you're talking about appear very bright and white because there's such an extreme contrast from my desktop background and other windows.
Do you still have oled blacks at 60 brightness? If so which model? Or do you sacrifice the blacks for calibration?
I also run 100 contrast game mode (this seems necessary to mitigate black crush), and then brightness 51. brightness 52 and up no longer provide total black on my 55cx, but rather dark grey, similar to plasma. (which is probably fine in a somewhat bright room).
This is for the just received cx 48" and I'm using it purely as monitor for gaming.
I'm just curious if you really have oled blacks over 51 brightness? I don't. 100 contrast 52 brightness for me kills blacks. 100 contrast 51 brightness still has oled blacks.
(and to be very precise, if I turn the room pitch black, and set a full black screen, 100 contrast 49 brightness is the blackest black, 50-51 adds nearly imperceptible light that will still appear as perfect black in any content, while improving dark scene precision. 52 is simply not black).
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I've got the same issue....was using a B7 with a C9 and now a C9 with a CX in the same room. I switched to using Alexa to power on/off the "tv" and i just press the button on the bottom of the "monitor".
You can set different IDs for the different remotes so that most functionality is separated........uses bluetooth............but the Power On/Off is infrared and just powers on anything LG.
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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Black level has a correct answer (although LG reverses the names for some reason) and you should check whether you're sending full range (0 = black, black level high) or limited range (16 = black, black level low), or just leave it Auto because the TV knows what it's doing. If you do black level high on a limited range signal black will be grey, if you do black level low on a full range signal 0-16 will be crushed to black.
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I was almost set to buy one of these but I think I'll wait for confirmation of a fully functional firmware. If it can't do ALL the features on at once with no drama (4k, 4:4:4, 120hz, GSync VRR, Low Latency) there's no reason for me to fork over $1500. If it WILL, then absolutely. They need to get all of this sorted out because frankly if they want high end enthusiast users to adopt OLED and risk burn-in longevity issue then EVERYTHING else needs to be working properly.
Again, this also happens on a 2070Super for me on .20 and .25FW if I mess with VSync on/off after starting a full screen game.
It looks like it switches to Half-VSync and duplicates frames like crazy. Once I toggle vsync back on it usually goes back to normal after a few seconds.
This starts to look like an hdmi-handshake problem or something..
We'll see in a couple of weeks if it's an LG issue is the same bugs start appearing on AMD Big Navi or Next Gen consoles or if it's LG's problem.. my guess still is a driver problem on nvidia's side.. or Win10..
Monstieur
Limp Gawd
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I've calculated the formula for the HDR / SDR brightness balance slider in Windows.
A slider value of 10 is 120 nits. From the TFTCentral review, an OLED Light value of 36 on the TV in SDR mode is approximately 120 nits.
Code:
Slider = ((Target Nits * 1000 / 80 ) - 1000) / 5000 * 100I used a calibrator and for me 7% was about 120 nits. 10% was something like 130-140 nits. So you cannot directly just calculate it. If you don't have a calibrator I would aim for values under 10% and compare with your desired SDR mode setting.
Try to press "windows key + p" + 1 x arrow down then enter.
Just received my CX48 after a couple of months waiting for the preorder. What a beast.
Still waiting on my 3080FTW3 so currently running on a 2080Super at 4K 60hz RGB.
At first glance, anyone else uses HDR even in the desktop ? Seems like the colors are much more vivid ?
Still waiting on my 3080FTW3 so currently running on a 2080Super at 4K 60hz RGB.
At first glance, anyone else uses HDR even in the desktop ? Seems like the colors are much more vivid ?
chimera991
[H]ard|Gawd
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Jut press windows button or the windows icon and type cursor. From there it should be cursor & pointer.
If you want to run HDR mode on the desktop then you should configure it to actually show SDR at the appropriate brightness. That's what the Windows SDR slider is for. SDR in HDR mode should look pretty much the same as SDR without HDR. If it looks more vivid then you probably have wide gamut or some other stuff reducing color accuracy.
t1337duder
Gawd
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Might not be a great idea to have brightness cranked for general desktop use. Having Energy Saving turned off and brightness set to 100 all the time is tempting fate I think in regards to potentially suffering visible burn-in. Also wears the TV out quicker. I generally use a combination of Energy Saving and keeping brightness around ~40. Playing a game or watching a movie? Then I'll turn up the brightness.
To be clear I don't think it's worth fear mongering about burn in, but being negible when using these TV's is what leads to burn in for the few that do end up experiencing it, so it's worth keeping in mind. Regular desktop use is a scenario commonly thought to lead to potential burn-in so the least someone could do to exhibit any sort of caution is to merely reduce brightness during occasions it matters least.
To be clear I don't think it's worth fear mongering about burn in, but being negible when using these TV's is what leads to burn in for the few that do end up experiencing it, so it's worth keeping in mind. Regular desktop use is a scenario commonly thought to lead to potential burn-in so the least someone could do to exhibit any sort of caution is to merely reduce brightness during occasions it matters least.
MistaSparkul
2[H]4U
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Burn in on this display will happen if you do not take precautions. If you don't want to take precautions then just get another monitor for your desktop work ffs.
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elvn
Supreme [H]ardness
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I agree.
HDR content is designed and mastered for viewing in a dim to dark theater or home theater environment and so are OLED tvs. When I get mine, it is going to be a dedicated media and gaming "stage" display. When I'm not gaming on it, it will run movies or fullscreen streams, youtube, twitch , etc or do a 4k+ slideshow or audio visualization, etc. I'll have a 43" 4k VA on each side like bookends for everything else.
Think of it like the mainscreen in star trek.. they aren't doing all of their engineering and science work and experiments on their main viewer typically. All of their data is on other workstation screens while the main screen is the big show.
Monstieur
Limp Gawd
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The slider determines the absolute PQ value Windows sends to the TV for white in SDR content - it's independent of any calibration. If the measured brightness is not correct, the TV is not correctly calibrated. You will have the same error with any other source. Try a white level test pattern from a known accurate source like a Blu-ray player or pattern generator.
0% on the slider is 80 nits white in SDR content, and 100% is 480 nits.
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Get a non-LG 55" or get closer to it with the remote when you turn it off. If you're also turning off a device that's hdmi-cec enabled, just turn it off and the TV will turn off as well.
https://www.audioholics.com/news/bug-in-hdmi-2.1-chipsets
Not directly LG CX, but that sounds too familiar... Let's hope this isn't the same buggy HDMI 2.1 chipset in our TVs..
//Edit: according to heise.de this isn't even FW fixable... https://www.heise.de/news/Bug-in-HD...nsole-und-Grafikkarten-betroffen-4935888.html
Not directly LG CX, but that sounds too familiar... Let's hope this isn't the same buggy HDMI 2.1 chipset in our TVs..
//Edit: according to heise.de this isn't even FW fixable... https://www.heise.de/news/Bug-in-HD...nsole-und-Grafikkarten-betroffen-4935888.html
This would have no bearing on the TV itself as it seems to be an issue with passthrough instead.
A real bummer as I was considering upgrading my 10 year old Denon AVR1610 to a HDMI 2.1 compatible model. With LG TVs having issues with eARC seems like the best course of action is to wait until next year for that.
Anyone have access to the backside of their 48" CX and can measure the rear protrusion of the stand? Mainly looking for width and height at it's max. In other words width up close to the tv where it's widest and height from your desk or what ever to the thickest point up close to the tv since it tapers back. Thoughts are to have a corner table behind it on my desk for statues and want to make sure I get something that the leg span and bottom shelf will clear the backside of the stand since it's so freakin big.
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Not sure about the Windows setting but there is/was a bug where having Quick Start+ on would turn on Screen Shift even though Screen Shift would show as off. The next time you see blurry text, just turn Screen Shift on and then back off and see if your text clears up. If so, just turn off Quick Start+.
equinox654
Gawd
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- Apr 7, 2005
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- 888
After learning about the LG CX series the other day. I listed my PG348Q ultra wide and iPad pro 11 on Facebook. The monitor had a buyer after 20 minutes lol.
What I'm wanting to do is get a cx 48 or cx 55 since it is the same price and when 3080s come back into stock pick one up and the ps5 as well.
I'll probably wall mount it in front of my desk and scoot my desk back a foot or so.
I have a samsung 55" q60fn that I used for a few days at 1440p 120hz and 4k 60 and it blew me away. Even being a mid range tv to my eyes looked better than any monitor that I've ever seen. Even using solidworks on it was pleasant.
I can't wait to see what the cx looks like.
I work from home 2 days a week doing solidworks design. I'm keeping my side monitor for notepad++ outlook and explorer windows.
Do you guys think ill be able to get a few years out of it with 16-20 hours a week of solidworks and 0-20 hours a week of gaming?
I plan on using dark themes on everything and keeping the brightness down and autohiding the task bar.
What I'm wanting to do is get a cx 48 or cx 55 since it is the same price and when 3080s come back into stock pick one up and the ps5 as well.
I'll probably wall mount it in front of my desk and scoot my desk back a foot or so.
I have a samsung 55" q60fn that I used for a few days at 1440p 120hz and 4k 60 and it blew me away. Even being a mid range tv to my eyes looked better than any monitor that I've ever seen. Even using solidworks on it was pleasant.
I can't wait to see what the cx looks like.
I work from home 2 days a week doing solidworks design. I'm keeping my side monitor for notepad++ outlook and explorer windows.
Do you guys think ill be able to get a few years out of it with 16-20 hours a week of solidworks and 0-20 hours a week of gaming?
I plan on using dark themes on everything and keeping the brightness down and autohiding the task bar.
mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
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- Dec 29, 2006
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- 435
No problem at all.
That 5.5Hz bug was exactly what I was able to force upon my 2070S setup too. I just can't replicate it anymore, but I think it was a weird combination if Alt+Tab out of the game, disable G-Sync jump back in and play around with V-Sync settings ingame. Maybe it also was LFC kicking in additionally, i honestly don't know anymore..
I need to look up youtube videos and see if I was actually experiencing the same thing or if it was something different showing the same symptoms in the hidden VRR OSD..
//Edit: this also may have been in the old .20 firmware..
Monstieur
Limp Gawd
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My CX / 3090 stays on 5.5 Hz when G-SYNC is working with a 118 fps cap.
Are you constantly on that 118fps cap framerate wise? I'd suspect gsync not working at all, just a tear- and stutterfree experience due to the high fps and refresh rate..
The benefits of higher Hz is complicated and can be extremely easily confounded by input lag and other things. Benefit of Higher Hz is also not going to be exactly equivalent on LCD vs OLED tech.
For casual gaming I just want my shit to work which right now is nothing that uses hdmi 2.1.
I feel there's actually some hope for big navi using 2.1 properly as amd tends to have less shenanigans with their launch drivers (but also less optimized, aka lower fps).
Good to know I was right about denon 2.1 being trash. Or is it good...
Waiting game continues until my CX can function properly for video, sound, gaming. At least the upscaling is great so I can enjoy watching old stuff on it in the mean time. 4k 120hz HDR, gsync, atmos still a big nope.
For casual gaming I just want my shit to work which right now is nothing that uses hdmi 2.1.
I feel there's actually some hope for big navi using 2.1 properly as amd tends to have less shenanigans with their launch drivers (but also less optimized, aka lower fps).
Good to know I was right about denon 2.1 being trash. Or is it good...
Waiting game continues until my CX can function properly for video, sound, gaming. At least the upscaling is great so I can enjoy watching old stuff on it in the mean time. 4k 120hz HDR, gsync, atmos still a big nope.
elvn
Supreme [H]ardness
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I have a 43" 4k samsung on each side of my gaming monitor. I had to stand close to the IR sensor with my body blocking the line of sight to the other screen when I first set them up but once they were on the same page it was actually more convenient to operate them at the same time off of a single remote, mostly just to turn them on and off.
You could get an IR repeater. They have an IR sensor that sends the signal using wireless radio signals to a repeater unit you keep at/in front of the TV. Theoretically you could have the sensor in a different direction from your wife so her remote isn't pointing anywhere toward your computer screen. She'd just have to get used to pointing at the repeater's sensor instead of at the tv itself.
You could also mask/tape or otherwise cover the IR sensor on your monitor so it can't receive those signals at all. You could use black marker on a few layers of painter's tape which is less abusive to the screen's sensor plastic if you end up removing it someday. Otherwise you could cut a little square of velcro base and apply it to each side of the sensor, then put a strip of the other side of the velcro across the whole sensor. You could stick something to the back of that velcro peice too, like a slat of plastic, black wood, or flat black cupboard/tool drawer material that comes in rolls. That way you could easily remove and replace the cover if you ever wanted to use the IR on your screen.
Of course this doesn't work for things that use radio signals rather than IR. A lot of things that use radio have an antenna wire throughout the body or frame so it wouldn't be feasible to mask those off. However most screens still use IR. Some set top stuff like consoles and nvidia shields, logitech remote control systems, etc. use wireless though for example.
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