mirkendargen
Limp Gawd
- Joined
- Dec 29, 2006
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That's like watching a commercial for a 1080p flatscreen "showing how great the picture is" on a 480i CRT TV
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
- Start date
That's like watching a commercial for a 1080p flatscreen "showing how great the picture is" on a 480i CRT TV
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Oh yeah. Only thing that sucks is when you run across old games that weren't designed to run above 60fps and stuff like physics gets wonky above that, but there are usually fixes or workarounds...and IME, those games are somewhat rare anyway. At least out of the ones that I play. And even if you're forced to cap the framerate to 60Hz, you still get all the other benefits and the amazing image quality.
I need to do another System Shock 2 run sometime.
What is still nice about 60fps limited games that are a little older is that you can usually crank the graphics settings up a lot and (usually) still get 60 fps MINIMUM, where back when the games were "new" your rig probably couldn't maintain that. 60fps minimum is a lot different than fluctuating down to 30 or 40 fps throughout the game. Some games also have mods that can make them at least get higher graphics for the lower frame rate cap, but you'd be surprised how demanding some games can still be vs a 60fps minimum with everything cranked up/modded on a high rez screen. For example GTA V's graphics ceiling modded (high textures, logos, sky, lighting, skeletons/ragdoll ~ physics, new models, AA, etc.) could crush your frame rate if you didn't moderate how extreme you went with it, and at 4k that would be even more demanding. In some cases you can also force supersampling on older games or downscale 5k, 8k, 16k if you have to system power vs game demand to play with. Some rpg/mmo/open world games with the view distance limitations blown away (maxed or modded) showing far view distances and animated objects in those distances are also frame rate crushing even if the character models are stylized or less complex.
I love dark souls type games like Dark Souls 3 and Nioh, Sekiro, and some more adventure styled ones like Shadow of Mordor/War, Witcher3, Assassin's creed odyssey, Horizon Zero, Ghosts of Tsushima, etc.. Some of those are 60fps capped. I'm definitely looking forward to playing those on an OLED once I get one.
Wherever I can, I aim for a 100fps average (or higher) using g-sync/VRR on a high Hz screen. That gives me 70/85 <<< 100 >> 115/130 fps range (on games that aren't 60fps capped)... well at least now on my 1440p screen. I'm looking forward to getting a 3080Ti with hdmi 2.1 and a 4k hdmi 2.1 OLED. Hopefully DLSS 2.0 (and someday 3.0) will help a lot with some titles (and AI upscaling should come to consoles and VR eventually too).
Looks neat. Coincidentally I checked humble bundle yesterday and saw an arcade style game that uses music tracks called "Beat Hazard 2" in the bundle. I claimed it in the bundle after I watched the video but haven't played it. Just thought I'd mention it.
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This will be one of those silly questions but here goes. I noticed The 48CX on Amazon has Alexa built in LG 48CXPUB I think is the model naming. Anyway I havent heard anyone here mention Alexa so I'm curious is this the same model that others have already bought?
Yes. It's the same one.
I use Alexa to turn my "monitor" on since I have 2 LG tvs in the same room. (the remote is IR for Power On/Off and acts on both tvs) One issue I had on my CX was that Alexa couldn't power it on......the wifi turns off when the power is off. There is a specific setting named "Turn on via Wi-Fi" but it did not work for me....everything is fine with an ethernet cable and my C7 and C9 oleds work just fine over wifi.
It introduces more problems than it solves.
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- 4,098
My iphone is oled...That's like watching a commercial for a 1080p flatscreen "showing how great the picture is" on a 480i CRT TV
Honestly there isn't anything you won't see looking at reviews of the larger TV models. It's a large black slab and only thing unboxing will show you is LG's ridiculous stand design and awkward packaging. My old Samsung TV involved laying the package on its side, opening the bottom, taking out two metal legs, pressing them in and lifting the display out of the package. LG C9 and CX were by comparison a lot more complicated to just get out, stand installed and lifted in place.
I don't really like the design of the LG C9/CX. It's inputs are located so that hiding the cables is more awkward as is mounting it right against a wall if you want to use HDMI 4, Ethernet or optical out. Fixed power cord on the opposite side is just as ridiculous. But these are not things that are going to bother you.
My iPhone is LCD. Fight me bro.
I think it's weird that I have my display tech completely backwards. I have an iPhone XR with a sub-1080p LCD, and an LG CX 55 OLED 4k with all the cool bells and whistles. Where did I go wrong?!?!?!
SixFootDuo
Supreme [H]ardness
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- Oct 5, 2004
- Messages
- 5,839
And I am sure COD Warzone looks amazing on it.
charlywiggin
Weaksauce
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2008
- Messages
- 126
Hi guys,
Quick question: I've got a 1080Ti hooked to my cx48... however I can't do 120hz 4k and HDR simultaneously in windows....is this a limitation with the GPU??
Quick question: I've got a 1080Ti hooked to my cx48... however I can't do 120hz 4k and HDR simultaneously in windows....is this a limitation with the GPU??
That's a limitation of HDMI 2.0b.
4k 120hz
4k HDR
120hz HDR
Any of those combinations "should" work.
GPU and HDMI 2.0. 4K 60 Hz 8-bit 4:4:4 or 10-bit 4:2:0 works with HDR. 1080p and 1440p work at 120 Hz with HDR. 4K 120 Hz 8-bit 4:2:0 SDR is possible too.
charlywiggin
Weaksauce
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- Jul 18, 2008
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- 126
That's what I figured .....sighs....gotta wait for the 3xxx release now.
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- May 5, 2006
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- 5,912
My samsung s2 tablet and my note phone are OLED. I made a bunch of screen caps from various sources back when that whole game of thrones finale quality issue happened and viewed them on the OLED tablet. Of course It was horrible compression and not inadquate screens like they claimed.
I have a very low density (32 or 64 zone) 70" FALD VA tv in my living room and a few 4000 and 6100:1 contrast edge lit 4k TVs at my pc, with a 2500 - 3000:1 g-sync 1440p LG VA gaming screen in the middle. None of those are oled level but the black levels on the ~ 6000:1 tvs are better than the gaming one for video media and pictures at least.
I check things out firing links off to my OLED tablet on the side when trying to actually compare any oled reviews or photos for now. However even viewing oled to oled - people's cameras have their own biases which are further affected by the ambient lighting levels as well as image and video compression in most cases so even then it's not really accurate, especially from the camera biases. Then the settings of the screen you are viewing the media on and the ambient lighting levels vs those settings there, in relation to the way your eyes and brain process contrast and saturation too. OLED to OLED would be best though of course. Like trying to show someone 120hz on a 60hz monitor, g-sync, real HDR, or real VR , etc.. you really won't get it until you actually see it on capable hardware for yourself.
I'm looking forward to getting a 48" or 55" hdmi 2.1 OLED in november to be be used as my media and gaming "stage".
I use a 3rd party youtube app so that should work out well with my window management software and hardware scheme. With that setup I'll be able to use the 3rd party youtube app on the oled and have youtube links automatically open there when I click them rather than moving the regular web browser off of my other desktop/app dedicated screens and back or using extra browser instances. Using independent apps also isolates the apps better by name for my windows management software+hardware and midi board volume faders.
Now I just need to eventually figure out a way to have images in firefox automatically open on a 3rd party image viewing app on the oled when I click on the image or using a right click menu addon (from within firefox) if I can find one that allows that. Otherwise I could just do file association in the firefox options to a 3rd party viewer I guess, or figure out a way to send certain links to a different browser that is locked to the OLED tv.
DrekkenRidge
Weaksauce
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- Apr 13, 2020
- Messages
- 84
Yep, you and the rest of us. "Only" a month to 6 weeks away supposedly for the top cards.
What app do you use?
MelonSplitter
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2006
- Messages
- 1,137
Call me a pessimist or whatever you want to, but doesn't it seem a little odd that their's not even
a mention from Nvidia or any other leakster confirming that the 3000 series card will have hdmi 2.1? The only thing I ever hear is
"will most likely have it". That doesn't reassure me. JM2C
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- May 5, 2006
- Messages
- 5,912
I was using a different one for awhile but now I'm just using Awesometube, available on the microsoft store.
there are a bunch of other ones though:
https://windowsloop.com/best-youtube-apps-windows-10/ (article from may, 2020)
I can click on youtube links and they'll automatically launch on the app.
I'd like to figure out a way to port images from web pages to an independent image viewer with as few clicks as possible eventually too.
Edit: this seems to work somewhat to dump images from a web page to a folder at least. It's not a perfect solution but something:
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/save-all-images-webextension/
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Yeah, but I'd be shocked if they didn't, especially given that LG had them backport features into the 2000 series.
I just set up my CX48 alongside my Acer 38” IPS and am simply blown away with how good the LG looks. Unfortunately the Acer now looks a bit washed out. Not sure if this is simply in comparison to the OLED or if I need to change something on my set up. The Acer had been running on HDMI but I moved it over to DP as I needed the HDMI port for the LG. Would switching from HDMI to DP mess up the settings on the monito?
The Acer has a significantly lower contrast ratio. The rest is comparing it to OLED.
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Welp that's IPS vs OLED for you. I don't care how good viewing angles are on an IPS, all that means to me is that you can have your crappy picture quality at any angle.
LCD vs OLED. That's what happens.
Your IPS isn't washed out. The OLED is just has crazy good contrast by comparison.
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Yeah. I turn 40 later this month, and I don't have the time nor desire to game like I used to. Don't get me wrong; I still LOVE playing video games. But now that I have to do something called adulting, other things take priority...and I just have more varied interests. 15 or 20 years ago I'd have spent an entire weekend cooped up in the house playing my modded XBOX. Not so much these days, but the point I'm getting to is that because I don't dedicate dozens of hours per week to gaming, the quantity of games that I'm interested in playing makes it so that I am constantly backlogged (this is not a unique problem, I know!). That means that I am often finally starting to play a game that was released two or three years prior...if not longer. While this means that I'm usually not playing the latest and greatest hyped up games as soon as they are released (there are edge cases - I purchased GTA V on day 1 and would do so again in the case of something I'm REALLY looking forward to, for example System Shock 3), it has several benefits that work in my favor:
- I'm paying way less for games (I pick up a lot via Steam sales, which usually don't occur immediately) which lets me spend more on hardware, which will then be used to play currently-expensive games later on down the road when they're cheaper and will run better
- Gives time for any early bugs or performance issues to be ironed out, like what happened with Arkham Knight, AC Unity, etc. or for features to be added and gameplay improved (No Man's Sky)
- The main thing though, is that since I'm part of the smaller group who prefers large 4K gaming for the visual fidelity and immersion...being so backlogged means that by the time I get to a game, chances are my setup is going to be able to run it well with max detail because I'll most likely have upgraded my GPU and/or CPU/mobo since the game came out. This is even more important when trying to achieve 60Hz+! RDR2 is a perfect example. I launched it and toggled the "quality" preset, which cranked up the graphics settings. Started playing the game and after playing Dusk and Amid Evil (awesome old-school style shooters btw) and Doom Eternal, it felt like I was moving through molasses. Part of that is the gameplay style not being as fast paced, but even when panning the camera around I could tell that my rig will need an upgrade (or several) to really be able to run that game well at those settings. But, that's no big deal. I don't have to play the game right now (and if I did want to I could lower the settings, but it's such a long game that if I only play through it once I want max visuals).
The other part of this is that due to my age, I'm in the demographic that was part of the earlier years of PC gaming and I have a real fondness for going back and playing some of those games from the mid 90s through the early 2000s. It's a real joy to go back and experience some of those at 4K/120Hz and like you said, even if they are 60fps limited, you're still getting all of the other benefits that weren't even a thing back then, as well as OLED image quality. Going back and playing something like No One Lives Forever on this panel is a really, really cool experience. And of course there are a TON of games in between that still look awesome despite not being a new game, that run at 120fps+ and are an absolute joy to experience on this set.
It's honestly one of the best computer purchases/upgrades I've ever made. For anyone coming from a 60Hz LCD monitor or TV to this 120Hz OLED, I would compare the experience to going from using traditional hard drives all your life to getting your first SSD. It would be that profound. Heck, I came from another LG OLED and still consider it to be one heck of an impressive upgrade.
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Speaking of going back to older games, I went back to Dying Light while I wait for Dying Light 2. Yeah ok it's not THAT old of a game, but still. Performance at 4k on a 2080 Ti is great.
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I don't know wtf you are talking about. OLED has the same image quality as IPS, only the black color is different. The 38" Acer that I had was even sharper due to higher PPI. Other than the black color and lack of IPS glow it's all exactly the same.
Probably you are viewing your OLEDs in wide gamut, thinking that oversaturated colors are popping more, or it's because LG OLEDs by default have slightly higher gamma which is more like 2.3, while usually monitors have gamma at around 2.2 or below. If it is real sRGB gamma, then it might look washed out even compared to flat 2.2 ... I don't know, but there is really no difference in image quality between OLED and IPS other than what I already mentioned.
I forgot to mention also, that for HDR, OLED is the top, of course. Comparing only the HDR performance, IPS is trash, but for SDR... the difference is slight, unless you are some kind of die hard black color fan. Oh...
Probably you are viewing your OLEDs in wide gamut, thinking that oversaturated colors are popping more, or it's because LG OLEDs by default have slightly higher gamma which is more like 2.3, while usually monitors have gamma at around 2.2 or below. If it is real sRGB gamma, then it might look washed out even compared to flat 2.2 ... I don't know, but there is really no difference in image quality between OLED and IPS other than what I already mentioned.
I forgot to mention also, that for HDR, OLED is the top, of course. Comparing only the HDR performance, IPS is trash, but for SDR... the difference is slight, unless you are some kind of die hard black color fan. Oh...
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You're unbelievably wrong. The contrast difference is insane on its own.
AdmiralBolty
n00b
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- Jun 27, 2020
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So right after I pick up an X27 after LG told me the 48CX was not hitting, I get this sent to me today by a mate. Might be of interest to any other Australian folks floating around in here. It will now be coming to AU and expressions of interest are now open.
https://www.lg.com/au/lg-48-inch-oled-tv
That being said, I do not regret the X27. It was a barely used 2nd hand unit and I picked it up for 1100AUD and its the LEAST non trash PC panel I have seen in the last ten years and makes me able to at least TOLERATE leaving the OLED in the lounge room and sitting at my PC for games and trust me, I have been through about as many panels as Vega and a number of the other 'regulars' I see here and around overclockers etc. Though, id not have picked it up had I known it would arrive this shortly. Last time I reached out to LG I was told "There are no plans at this time to bring the unit to AU."
https://www.lg.com/au/lg-48-inch-oled-tv
That being said, I do not regret the X27. It was a barely used 2nd hand unit and I picked it up for 1100AUD and its the LEAST non trash PC panel I have seen in the last ten years and makes me able to at least TOLERATE leaving the OLED in the lounge room and sitting at my PC for games and trust me, I have been through about as many panels as Vega and a number of the other 'regulars' I see here and around overclockers etc. Though, id not have picked it up had I known it would arrive this shortly. Last time I reached out to LG I was told "There are no plans at this time to bring the unit to AU."
The contrast is just the black level. It doesn't impact anything else. The usable white level is approximately the same... You wont be running your oled at 600nits in SDR. You will be running it at the same 100-200 nits as a regular IPS display. So, it's just the black level that is different. All other colors are identical, when properly calibrated.
AdmiralBolty
n00b
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- Jun 27, 2020
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- 18
To re-iterate GoldenTiger's statement somewhat, you are incredibly, incredibly wrong. A repeating pattern it would seem given your hilarious thread regarding the X38 in which you praise a monitor that displays the same trash qualities as any other IPS panel on the market with a lack of FALD backlighting.
If you want to keep being wrong, maybe you could just keep being wrong in that thread? It is not even objective, IPS is trash let alone comparing it to OLED. It's not even in the same realm of comparison.
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If you are talking about edge lit you are wrong. No offense, you seem like a good personable commenter in these threads.
The uniformity of lighting those colors is large flashlighting sheets across the back of the panel. Even FALD has to offset a glow halo vs a dim halo on adjacent brightness areas and edges in scenes which is a big trade-off but on an edge lit it's doing it across edge to edge (or edge segments depending if it has dimming without a full FALD array). So edge lit either has to keep the whole scene in a poor contrast dim color volume range or blow out 1/3 or more of the screen with flashlighting while compromising the rest of the scene and screen area. A high density FALD display will still have dim/glow offsets so will bloom brightness or dimness into areas that it shouldn't, losing detail-in-colors and accurate per pixel color values as well as limiting what it's specified peak % color volumes/brightnesses are in practice in real scenes rather than static tests. To be fair, OLED, especially in HDR, will also lose on the whole screen similarly, at least temporarily or intermittently, when ABL kicks on dropping it to 140nit color volume ("detail-in-color ceiling"). However the OLED will have per pixel color values while even what is considered a "high density" FALD LCD of today will have soft zone balancing with dim/glow halos and besides that the zones already cover large areas of pixels that should each have their own separate luminance but can't with that kind of backlighting being behind such a large number of them.
OLED not only has black depth but has detail-in-(much, much darker)-blacks .. while it's per pixel emissive display can do per pixel detail-in-color to high color volume /color ceilings on it's up to ~800nit HDR color. When a display hit's it's lowest black, everything past that turns to the same field of black (or on LCD, usually grey-chalkboard black) blob . When a display hit's it's peak color volume ceiling it will either clip to white or roll down to the best color it can do, leaving a blob of color that loses details-in-color. All of that happening dynamically in scenes with moving camera and light sources, new light sources introduced and removed, reflections, etc. too. Otherwise some modern displays optionally can use some software/hardware that attempts to "hack" otherwise lost details, remapping some of the detail up or down dynamically ~ tone mapping, if you enable it but it's not a perfect solution and it's not accurate to the original more realistic version of the content. You have to remap it somewhat to begin with when viewing HDR1000 material on displays that can't do 1000 or that can't do 1000, 4000, or 10000 absolutely due to their % (of screen) color brightness limitations, which can apply to both flagship FALD LCDs and OLEDs though OLED are in the 750 - 800 range so it's more important for them. However as I said, the real average scene color brightnesses and accuracy due to FALD's dim and glow halos offsetting areas ends up limiting their overall appearance - color volume/color brightnesses and therefore color accuracy.. and dynamically in scenes, so details (detail-in-colors and detail-in-blacks) are lost.
The uniformity of lighting those colors is large flashlighting sheets across the back of the panel. Even FALD has to offset a glow halo vs a dim halo on adjacent brightness areas and edges in scenes which is a big trade-off but on an edge lit it's doing it across edge to edge (or edge segments depending if it has dimming without a full FALD array). So edge lit either has to keep the whole scene in a poor contrast dim color volume range or blow out 1/3 or more of the screen with flashlighting while compromising the rest of the scene and screen area. A high density FALD display will still have dim/glow offsets so will bloom brightness or dimness into areas that it shouldn't, losing detail-in-colors and accurate per pixel color values as well as limiting what it's specified peak % color volumes/brightnesses are in practice in real scenes rather than static tests. To be fair, OLED, especially in HDR, will also lose on the whole screen similarly, at least temporarily or intermittently, when ABL kicks on dropping it to 140nit color volume ("detail-in-color ceiling"). However the OLED will have per pixel color values while even what is considered a "high density" FALD LCD of today will have soft zone balancing with dim/glow halos and besides that the zones already cover large areas of pixels that should each have their own separate luminance but can't with that kind of backlighting being behind such a large number of them.
OLED not only has black depth but has detail-in-(much, much darker)-blacks .. while it's per pixel emissive display can do per pixel detail-in-color to high color volume /color ceilings on it's up to ~800nit HDR color. When a display hit's it's lowest black, everything past that turns to the same field of black (or on LCD, usually grey-chalkboard black) blob . When a display hit's it's peak color volume ceiling it will either clip to white or roll down to the best color it can do, leaving a blob of color that loses details-in-color. All of that happening dynamically in scenes with moving camera and light sources, new light sources introduced and removed, reflections, etc. too. Otherwise some modern displays optionally can use some software/hardware that attempts to "hack" otherwise lost details, remapping some of the detail up or down dynamically ~ tone mapping, if you enable it but it's not a perfect solution and it's not accurate to the original more realistic version of the content. You have to remap it somewhat to begin with when viewing HDR1000 material on displays that can't do 1000 or that can't do 1000, 4000, or 10000 absolutely due to their % (of screen) color brightness limitations, which can apply to both flagship FALD LCDs and OLEDs though OLED are in the 750 - 800 range so it's more important for them. However as I said, the real average scene color brightnesses and accuracy due to FALD's dim and glow halos offsetting areas ends up limiting their overall appearance - color volume/color brightnesses and therefore color accuracy.. and dynamically in scenes, so details (detail-in-colors and detail-in-blacks) are lost.
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The difference in SDR is huge between OLED and IPS when I play World of Warcraft and World of Warcraft Classic
FALD also affects only the black and white levels. Doesn't affect anything else.
And believe me, I'm not even trying.
Only because of different calibration settings and real blacks.
If you calibrate displays to the same sRGB standard, they all look the same. The only difference is panel specifics. IPS have glow, backlight bleed and low contrast. TNs have tiny viewing angle within which they don't shift colors and gamma and have low contrast, VAs have their own specifics and OLEDs don't have those negatives, only slight color shift and huge size as a negative. And image retention problem. The ABL is also a problem. But they are free from backlight bleed or glow and have infinite contrast and that's about it. All colors, tones, shades etc look exactly the same across all panels when calibrated to the same color standards.
Even the 17" TN 120hz display attached to my gaming notebook looks just as good as the OLED, or any other display with the more or less correct colors. Apart form insane color shift and increased gamma, making things look "punchier". It's just the panel specs that differ, colors are the same.
I will not bother you further. Just couldn't hold it anymore reading all these "OLED is so much better than my IPS (or whatever)". You want to believe that SDR quality is better on OLED than on anything else - okay. Just know that you are wrong.
The only way in which OLED beats anything else hands down, without contest, in games - is HDR. o7
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FALD affects detail in colors. It loses detail in both fields of colors and detail in blacks in scenes. It's been shown in slow motion shots on HDTVTest several times when comparing different TVs. And that is just FALD zones offsetting their dim and glow areas with a darkening or glowing halo, as well as pixels that should have more color brightness variation being stuck within a particular lighting zone "cell".. let alone whole swaths of edge lighting.
Yes it's way more obvious in HDR because the color brightnesses (double or more the brighter and brighter rows of colored crayons in a crayon box's height.. 100nit or 350nit compared to up to 800nit of color variation) . Those colors are such a larger range, and the side by side detail in variegated fields color and detail in blacks, sometimes right next to each other which can not be done accurately with zone lighting. All of that dynamically in moving scenes with varying light sources and not static test images.
There is a reason the $25,000 and more sony, eizo, and panasonic reference monitors were all oled, (and that the top ones now are dual layer LCD which is more down to the pixel level of backlighting without suffering from ABL or burn in concerns nor as limited % screen brightnesses).
Yes it's way more obvious in HDR because the color brightnesses (double or more the brighter and brighter rows of colored crayons in a crayon box's height.. 100nit or 350nit compared to up to 800nit of color variation) . Those colors are such a larger range, and the side by side detail in variegated fields color and detail in blacks, sometimes right next to each other which can not be done accurately with zone lighting. All of that dynamically in moving scenes with varying light sources and not static test images.
There is a reason the $25,000 and more sony, eizo, and panasonic reference monitors were all oled, (and that the top ones now are dual layer LCD which is more down to the pixel level of backlighting without suffering from ABL or burn in concerns nor as limited % screen brightnesses).
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AdmiralBolty
n00b
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- Jun 27, 2020
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- 18
It's called contrast and its one of the most important determining factors in image quality and depth to the displayed image.
We are all entitled to our opinions however you are not presenting an opinion, you are presenting completely inaccurate, non-factual arguments that honestly with each post, just drive home a significant lack of understanding in display technology.
FALD also affects only the black and white levels. Doesn't affect anything else.
And believe me, I'm not even trying.
Only because of different calibration settings and real blacks.
If you calibrate displays to the same sRGB standard, they all look the same. The only difference is panel specifics. IPS have glow, backlight bleed and low contrast. TNs have tiny viewing angle within which they don't shift colors and gamma and have low contrast, VAs have their own specifics and OLEDs don't have those negatives, only slight color shift and huge size as a negative. And image retention problem. The ABL is also a problem. But they are free from backlight bleed or glow and have infinite contrast and that's about it. All colors, tones, shades etc look exactly the same across all panels when calibrated to the same color standards.
Even the 17" TN 120hz display attached to my gaming notebook looks just as good as the OLED, or any other display with the more or less correct colors. Apart form insane color shift and increased gamma, making things look "punchier". It's just the panel specs that differ, colors are the same.
I will not bother you further. Just couldn't hold it anymore reading all these "OLED is so much better than my IPS (or whatever)". You want to believe that SDR quality is better on OLED than on anything else - okay. Just know that you are wrong.
The only way in which OLED beats anything else hands down, without contest, in games - is HDR. o7
All display techs have their own properties, upsides, downsides, etc.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_display_technology
Different LCD panel types.
https://www.pchardwarehelp.com/guides/lcd-panel-types.php
And of course, LCD vs OLED
https://www.trustedreviews.com/opinion/oled-vs-led-lcd-2924602
Now, I'm not going to claim to be the best expert on these techs by any stretch, but I have done my research over the years, and this is what I have found.
TN: Weak colors, Weak contrast, fast response. Incredible gaming monitors (IPS seems to have caught up in response times recently).
IPS: Accurate colors, Ok contrast, good response (excellent response on higher-end models)
VA: High color volume (can be calibrated to accurate color), Excellent contrast, OK response.
OLED: Extremely high color volume (can be calibrated to accurate color), Perfect contrast, Incredible response.
So why isn't OLED the prevalent tech nowadays? Well, they still cost a ton in TVs, they don't get as bright as LCD, and there's still a "fear" of burn-in. I say "fear" because a lot has been done in recent years to make OLED much more hardy and resist burn-in; you have to abuse the TV to the extreme in order to get burn-in to show up in any meaningful capacity within the first couple of years of ownership.
Why do I consider myself an expert? Well, I have an LG CX (OLED), Samsung Q90R (VA w/ Quantum Dot filter), Dell 27" s2716dg (TN, high refresh), iPhone XR (IPS), and AOC 34" Ultrawide (AH-IPS).
My thoughts on each of these items is as follows.
AOC 34" Ultrawide (AH-IPS): Incredible color, HORRIBLE input lag, tons of pixel smear in motion. Not good for gaming.
iPhone XR: Accurate color, can see a lot of the backlight on dark backgrounds.
Dell s2716dg (TN): Really fast response time, dingy color and contrast (I've tried calibrating the color on this, it's just not good.)
Samsung Q90R (VA with QD): Extremely high color volume and brightness, but high brightness blows up the gamma. Can see some backlight in dark scenes (FALD w/ 480 dimming zones)
LG CX OLED: Vibrant, accurate color on Warm2 Gamma profile, decent brightness, perfect contrast, beats all of them on response times and motion handling, even the dell monitor.
My conclusion: The LG CX OLED is EASILY the closest to a perfect display I've ever had, full stop. Colors are vibrant and accurate, contrast really helps this, and the response times and cleanness of the image in motion is on another level; LCD tech cannot compete.
Again, I'm not a professional by any means, but I think I've seen enough monitors at this point to very clearly say that OLED is a better tech than IPS or VA LCD. The reason? The backlights, no matter how good they are, are going to distort the color of the LCD panel a little bit, even on AH-IPS. OLED does not have this issue, and based on what I've seen so far, LG has nearly perfected color handling in their OLED panels. It's stunning to say the least.
For what it looks, it sounds like Ampere will release at the end of the month:
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/nvidia-ampere-countdown-august-31
So hopefully, we'll finally be able to see how the CX works with a proper HDMI 2.1 source.
https://www.tomshardware.com/news/nvidia-ampere-countdown-august-31
So hopefully, we'll finally be able to see how the CX works with a proper HDMI 2.1 source.
Contrast is just the difference between white and black. Nothing else. At least know some basics before arguing ffs.
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I agree with that.
OLED is my target and should last me awhile... but I'm not going to ignore the fact that:
-while edge lit does big flashlights from the edges affecting or limiting wide areas of color brightness, detail in fields of colors, detail in fields of darkness, contrast
-while FALD's zones do darkening and glowing "halos" on the fringes of areas and try to balance those shaped arrays against each other dynamically in "moving" content, losing details, and while pixels within the core of a fald zone don't get per pixel color luminance difference like they should
---> OLED still gets the color luminance trade-offs all at once when ABL kicks on ... and in step downs with more restricted screen brightness limits vs % of screen (though even FALD LCDs have % screen brightness limits). ABL can be avoided running lower brightness settings in SDR but overall it's still a tradeoff and always for HDR.
Still ,considering all the trade-offs, burn in was always my biggest concern. The limitations and trade-offs of OLED are now the very reason that burn in is less likely though. I'll still do a black desktop background, lock away my primary taskbar entirely, show no icons, and dedicate the OLED to a gaming/dynamic media display just to be safe. Hopefully the logo identification and dimming tech will help with game HUDs too.
While that is true, I don't agree with you that FALD (let alone edge lighting) only affects blacks. FALD affects color luminance just like it affects the white to black scale. FALD causes "unintended areas to be darker or brighter", which means those colors in those areas will be lighter or darker than they should be. Not only do you lose detail-in-blacks but you lose detail in fields of colors and get dimming of colors, dynamically across scenes with moving player/camera and dynamic light sources. It's almost like localized omnidirectional ABL cells and localized omnidirectional flashlighting cells but the cells are too big covering a lot of pixels in each cell as well as casting their glow/bloom/dim effect into surrounding areas at various intensities in an attempt at balancing based on the particular firmware.
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Yes, it affects luminance. I meant it by saying "brightness"... Not much difference if at all. FALD can be nice and personally I am looking forward to the X32 and its Asus version. I believe the halos will be tolerable. Just don't say anything about the price...