LG 48CX

Hmm, it seems the pixel shift feature has some bug that causes blurry picture especially at 4K 120 Hz 4:2:0. If you toggle pixel shift on, the picture becomes blurry. Toggle it off, picture is sharp.

LG has still not fixed the issue where despite pixel shift being disabled, it will re-enable itself when the display is restarted but the UI still says its disabled. Toggling it on and back off again fixes this.

Ah yes I forgot to follow up with the solution on that when I complained about it earlier last week...lol can't believe the solution was as simple as turning it back on then off.
 
Ah yes I forgot to follow up with the solution on that when I complained about it earlier last week...lol can't believe the solution was as simple as turning it back on then off.

It seems like it does not apply to 60 Hz mode though, just 120 Hz for some reason. Weird.
 
So depsite i1 Pro saying all three screens are at 6500k, there is clearly a visible difference between the three. Now, the question is if the OLED is miscalibrated by the i1 Pro? I'd say likely no because I had the very same issue back in the day trying to get CCFL and LED monitors to match and GB-r LED and W-LED ones to match as well. For some reason, different backlight types end up producing different 'looking' whites though after calorimeter corrections images do look very close, despite this issue. Thoughts? The side screens are very close/identical since both are WLED sRGB screens.
 

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So depsite i1 Pro saying all three screens are at 6500k, there is clearly a visible difference between the three. Now, the question is if the OLED is miscalibrated by the i1 Pro? I'd say likely no because I had the very same issue back in the day trying to get CCFL and LED monitors to match and GB-r LED and W-LED ones to match as well. For some reason, different backlight types end up producing different 'looking' whites though after calorimeter corrections images do look very close, despite this issue. Thoughts? The side screens are very close/identical since both are WLED sRGB screens.

Looking at the picture only the display on the left looks like correct whites to me while the right one is reddish, probably due to viewing angles. The OLED does look very blue. Have you tried what the i1 Pro thinks it is seeing if you try to calibrate it just visually? You could also try different placement of the calibrator and see if that has an effect.

For me just running on a single display in Game mode with Warm 2, contrast 90, OLED light 30-40 looks visually alright to me, grayscale does not look tinted to my eyes but I will see if I can improve the situation with a Spyder 5 Pro I have from work.
 
So depsite i1 Pro saying all three screens are at 6500k, there is clearly a visible difference between the three. Now, the question is if the OLED is miscalibrated by the i1 Pro? I'd say likely no because I had the very same issue back in the day trying to get CCFL and LED monitors to match and GB-r LED and W-LED ones to match as well. For some reason, different backlight types end up producing different 'looking' whites though after calorimeter corrections images do look very close, despite this issue. Thoughts? The side screens are very close/identical since both are WLED sRGB screens.
That is definitely blue. You don't need the other two monitors to notice. You probably need to correct for WOLED since the colorimeter is calibrated for standard RGB/BGR pixels. The extra white subpixel in the LG is probably throwing it off. Just for shiggles try turning the blue component of the white balance on the TV down by 10-20.
 
The blue was adjusted to -10 during profiling and the picture above is after that change. Same thing I remember from calibrating GBr LEDs back in 2013, whites just look different.
 
The blue was adjusted to -10 during profiling and the picture above is after that change. Same thing I remember from calibrating GBr LEDs back in 2013, whites just look different.

It seems like all our CX's are definitely too blue, at least that's what I got in Game Mode picture. I also had to dial down the blue to -11 and red up +3 just to get my white point balanced out to 6500k.
 
Did you use WLED or OLED as the backlight while profiling? Thinking of reprofiling using WLED ...

I used the WOLED for LG 6 Series that SoCali and Hardwareunboxed said to use. However my results came out looking like ass so something clearly went wrong, I'll try again sometime but after wasting over an hour on the first attempt I'm not really too eager to give it another shot.
 
Eyeballing my EA274Wmi which is calibrated via a hardware LUT (left screen in my pic), it seems greens are way too high as well, need R,G,B values of 2, -15 and -20 comes close.
 
Hmm, it seems the pixel shift feature has some bug that causes blurry picture especially at 4K 120 Hz 4:2:0. If you toggle pixel shift on, the picture becomes blurry. Toggle it off, picture is sharp.

LG has still not fixed the issue where despite pixel shift being disabled, it will re-enable itself when the display is restarted but the UI still says its disabled. Toggling it on and back off again fixes this.

Well I will be danged....digger dang dang de danged.....your right. Turing pixel shift off has cleaned up the picture quality of 4k120 420 immensly. Damn, no need for the craptastic club 3d adapter now
 
Using a 'generic' light source in i1 pro gets RGB settings of -5, -19, -20 for 2 point High settings and seems much better. Will probably increase the red a bit more given the known blue bias.
 
I borrowed a Spyder5 and did a calibration. ISF dark room (and the RTings settings applied to the Game profile) are both very close to accurate, but slightly green on my panel. Now I'm just debating whether to pay up for the Calman license to be able to really calibrate it...
 
Yeah, it's coming here this week anyway. Couple more days and I'll be sitting in front of one.

They've been ok when it comes to firmware updates, I wouldn't give LG a perfect 10/10 but maybe a 8/10 for firmware support? There have been issues in the past that they finally resolved, even if it did take some time.
 
Got mine in a week or so ago and am loving it!

Couple questions:

Doesn't GSYNC just work if you enable the checkbox in Nvidia Control Panel? I saw a few pages back people were saying you had to hard force VSYNC in Nvidia and cap frame rate. Is this just for games that don't natively support it? I would swear I've seen no tearing and pendelum demo enabled GSYNC just fine.

Second, how do you enable BFI? Is that just the TRUMOTION setting? If so, in GAME mode it seems disabled. Do I have to disable INSTANT GAME RESPONSE or something? I've never really been bothered by motion clarity but wanted to check it out for fun.
 
I gave in and bought a Calman Home license...it's calibrating now, we'll see how it goes.

...anyone in the Seattle area want their C9/CX calibrated for like $50 for me to recoup my costs? ;)
 
Got mine in a week or so ago and am loving it!

Couple questions:

Doesn't GSYNC just work if you enable the checkbox in Nvidia Control Panel? I saw a few pages back people were saying you had to hard force VSYNC in Nvidia and cap frame rate. Is this just for games that don't natively support it? I would swear I've seen no tearing and pendelum demo enabled GSYNC just fine.

G-sync works fine when you tick the box. But all monitors have limited refresh rate capabilities (they can't go from 0hz to infinity hz) which means a limited VRR range. So v-sync on + FPS cap is just to ensure that you always stay in that range no matter what, because GPUs can output much more (and also much less) frames than your screen is physically capable of displaying.
 
Got mine in a week or so ago and am loving it!

Couple questions:

Doesn't GSYNC just work if you enable the checkbox in Nvidia Control Panel? I saw a few pages back people were saying you had to hard force VSYNC in Nvidia and cap frame rate. Is this just for games that don't natively support it? I would swear I've seen no tearing and pendelum demo enabled GSYNC just fine.

Second, how do you enable BFI? Is that just the TRUMOTION setting? If so, in GAME mode it seems disabled. Do I have to disable INSTANT GAME RESPONSE or something? I've never really been bothered by motion clarity but wanted to check it out for fun.

TruMotion is BFI yes. Game Mode does not disable it, but Instant Game Response does. Just turn that off and you will be able to use BFI. In order to get the BEST results from BFI you need to match the frame rate to the refresh rate, so 120FPS for 120Hz and 100FPS for 100Hz. It's not for everyone but I personally LOOOOOVE BFI and use it whenever I can.
 
TruMotion is BFI yes. Game Mode does not disable it, but Instant Game Response does. Just turn that off and you will be able to use BFI. In order to get the BEST results from BFI you need to match the frame rate to the refresh rate, so 120FPS for 120Hz and 100FPS for 100Hz. It's not for everyone but I personally LOOOOOVE BFI and use it whenever I can.

There are actually two parts of TruMotion, BFI and motion interpolation. Game mode disables the motion interpolation part but not the BFI part, and then VRR does indeed disable BFI. I haven't tried non-game mode VRR on with motion interpolation, that just sounds weird and even if it lets you I can't imagine it being a good result.
 
G-sync works fine when you tick the box. But all monitors have limited refresh rate capabilities (they can't go from 0hz to infinity hz) which means a limited VRR range. So v-sync on + FPS cap is just to ensure that you always stay in that range no matter what, because GPUs can output much more (and also much less) frames than your screen is physically capable of displaying.

Hey thanks!

So to be clear - if I have GSYNC on but the game goes about 120 FPS I could see some tearing (odd that I have not). I was under the mistaken impression that GSYNC just handled this and there would be no tearing regardless of framerate.
If you cap your FPS below 120, so you are always in the GSYNC range, why do you have to force VSYNC on in the control panel?
 
TruMotion is BFI yes. Game Mode does not disable it, but Instant Game Response does. Just turn that off and you will be able to use BFI. In order to get the BEST results from BFI you need to match the frame rate to the refresh rate, so 120FPS for 120Hz and 100FPS for 100Hz. It's not for everyone but I personally LOOOOOVE BFI and use it whenever I can.

Awesome - can't wait to check it out!

Instant Game Response is just turning off some processing that adds to input lag right? I've actually never been sensitive to that. I've used a 43 Dell IPS for gaming for a while and never noticed input lag (even though it's supposed to be pretty high on that model) and I even (used to) switch to a 27" Predator for high frame rate games which was supposed to have great input lag. Odd that I don't seem to notice input lag, but I can tell the difference between 60 and 144 in a second.

I've considered looking at videos on how to notice input lag, but maybe ignorance is bliss. Cannot unsee sort of thing.
 
Hey thanks!

So to be clear - if I have GSYNC on but the game goes about 120 FPS I could see some tearing (odd that I have not). I was under the mistaken impression that GSYNC just handled this and there would be no tearing regardless of framerate.
If you cap your FPS below 120, so you are always in the GSYNC range, why do you have to force VSYNC on in the control panel?

If you cap the framerate without forcing v-sync you can get some rare tearing because the v-sync option adds a frametime compensation mechanism to g-sync. That being said, it may or may not be noticeable so does not matter too much. But enabling v-sync doesn't hurt at all, so may as well just do it.

Check out https://blurbusters.com/ if you want more in depth explanations.
 
They've been ok when it comes to firmware updates, I wouldn't give LG a perfect 10/10 but maybe a 8/10 for firmware support? There have been issues in the past that they finally resolved, even if it did take some time.

Yeah, based on my B6 firmware updates came every few months for the first year or so. Problems got fixed but it may take a few months to get to that point.
 
Just started Death Stranding on this puppy.

Using DLSS is best here, looks better than native 4K, better jaggies and shimmering reduction than TAA. Add 40% sharpness in the NV settings and it's litterally perfect. Also you don't want to play in SDR with this game.
 
So many software bugs! How good is LG at dealing with those anyway?

They fix them if/when they fix them. Like all display manufacturers they are kinda crappy about it and there is usually no release notes etc. If you buy a LG OLED they are usually supported for 2 years with software updates.
 
Awesome - can't wait to check it out!

Instant Game Response is just turning off some processing that adds to input lag right? I've actually never been sensitive to that. I've used a 43 Dell IPS for gaming for a while and never noticed input lag (even though it's supposed to be pretty high on that model) and I even (used to) switch to a 27" Predator for high frame rate games which was supposed to have great input lag. Odd that I don't seem to notice input lag, but I can tell the difference between 60 and 144 in a second.

I've considered looking at videos on how to notice input lag, but maybe ignorance is bliss. Cannot unsee sort of thing.

Input lag is more felt than seen until it is very noticeable. You find yourself missing things like timing dependent events on games (like say a parry in Dark Souls) and moving your viewpoint in first person games seems to lag behind a bit.
 
Just started Death Stranding on this puppy.

I can't wait to give it a go but I have such a big HDR game backlog and am currently getting through The Last Of Us Part 2 so it will have to wait. Kind of good because I don't want to pay $60 for it.
 
I got 420 tolerable for desktop use on the 48cx. Its nowhere nearly as crisp as my Alienware oled with native 4k120 Full RGB, but will work fine for what i need until 3000 series gpus. 60hz gives me carpel tunnel sydrome for desktop productivity use

How can a monitor give carpel tunnel syndrome?
 
Anyone upgrading from an older oled? I have a 55" B8 i'm using as a desktop monitor but find it a little too big. I've always had a Gsync 100+ HZ monitor so I'm definately missing that. I'll be using it for current/next gen consoles as well. 2080ti currently. Just wondering if its worth the upgrade for the new features right now.
 
Anyone upgrading from an older oled? I have a 55" B8 i'm using as a desktop monitor but find it a little too big. I've always had a Gsync 100+ HZ monitor so I'm definately missing that. I'll be using it for current/next gen consoles as well. 2080ti currently. Just wondering if its worth the upgrade for the new features right now.
I'd wait until next year, when HDMI 2.1 graphics cards become easily accessible on the market and LG presents the new CXI series with updates made to the current 48"s. Who knows maybe they will announce even smaller OLED size. Unlikely of course, but who knows for sure.
 
Anyone upgrading from an older oled? I have a 55" B8 i'm using as a desktop monitor but find it a little too big. I've always had a Gsync 100+ HZ monitor so I'm definately missing that. I'll be using it for current/next gen consoles as well. 2080ti currently. Just wondering if its worth the upgrade for the new features right now.

I upgraded from a 55" B7. The CX is a significant upgrade IMO. Gaming on the B7 was awesome, but going to 120Hz alone was extremely noticeable. Add to that VRR, BFI, G-Sync, better input lag, and a more reasonable size (for most). I haven't had the first inkling of buyer's remorse, but the good news is, even if you wait until next year...you're still gaming on an OLED, so the situation could be far worse. :)
 
How can a monitor give carpel tunnel syndrome?

I have to make lots of sharp precise mouse movements with my work and 60hz feels like hand HIV.

I'd wait until next year, when HDMI 2.1 graphics cards become easily accessible on the market and LG presents the new CXI series with updates made to the current 48"s. Who knows maybe they will announce even smaller OLED size. Unlikely of course, but who knows for sure.

He should wait at least TEN years to be safe!
 
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