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LG 48CX

kasakka said:
Just note that at the time of writing the Club3D adapter does not support VRR and is not perfect but works pretty decently as long as you have the latest firmware. Long cry from requiring constant power cycling for every resolution change like when it was released. I just thought to mention it as evidence that the LG CX should support 3840x1600 at 120 Hz custom resolutions. Interested to see if the adapter performs any differently on 3080 vs 2080 Ti though.
Click to expand...

Roger that -- Thanks for the info. Gaming at 3840x1600 @ 60hz is not bad at all by any stretch but if the display is capable of 120hz, I'd like to run at that. I'll be sure to post results between the 2080 Ti and 3080 testing for sure. Also, depending on when LG firmware hits for CX as well.
 
digitalforce said:
Thanks for the helpful reply!

  • I don't have the Vizio hooked up at the same time as the CX, I've just been testing them both off and on and stunned at how good the Vizio is for the price. In fact, I had it a week before the CX and it's so surprising, it made the jump to OLED less impactful as I was coming from IPS panels with horrid black levels.

  • I read about the CLub3D adapter and almost picked it up but the shipping was like a week out. So, I know that creating 3840x1600 60+hz is possible in NVCP with the adapter but not sure why it isn't working straight to the CX without the adapter. Also, the reason why I prefer custom resolution and higher refresh rate is because a bunch of games like World of Warcraft, Elder Scrolls Online and even the new MS Flight Simulator do not Window correctly when your fullscreen resolution is set to 3840x2160 and you want to run at ultrawide 3840x1600. If I DO set the desktop resolution to 3840x1600 and run the games at that res, they all work perfectly. Since so many games are skipping out on true exclusive fullscreen, it messes up me trying to run custom resolutions. EDIT: I went ahead and ordered an adapter just now for testing. Won't be here til end of next week.

  • Looks like the C9 got firmware. Hopefully the CX is incoming as I truly would love to settle on a display. Also, if I can just get the Club3D adapter working right with custom res @ 60+hz, I might sell the 3080 while it's hot and stick with the 2080 Ti.
Click to expand...


LG OLED C9 did NOT get any firmware. I called and was told no and there is no update in the TV menu system.
 
BFI test guy is back with comments on the capacitor issues. I didn't wanna put this in the "issues" thread as I don't think users outside of this thread will be familiar him, but thought some here may be interested.

 
MissJ84 said:
BFI test guy is back with comments on the capacitor issues. I didn't wanna put this in the "issues" thread as I don't think users outside of this thread will be familiar him, but thought some here may be interested.

Click to expand...


Happy to report my Gigabyte Eagle 3080 has shown no issues or crashes running above 2ghz for extended periods of time in multiple games. Phew!
 
l88bastard said:
Hooked up my 3080 to the 48cx today and its a BIG improvement vs the 2080ti's 420.
I am using the 6's Club 3D 8k60 / 4k120 hdmi cable and things look freakin great.

Yes, that flickering black is caused by gsync malfunctioning....gotta turn that off for now.
Can't wait for new LG firmware and new Nvidia drivers.....but so far I am impressed and have not played one game yet lol.
Click to expand...

Is that Club 3D HDMI cable better/different than any other 2.1 cable that is 48 Gbps, such as from Monoprice or Ruipro?
 
MAN...BFV as a battlefield is one of my least favorite.....but MY GAWD it looks incredible on this display matched with a 3080 @ 4k120 HDR full ultra settings....WOWOWOWOWOW

Can't wait till LG & Nvidia fix gsync and the other issues!
 
Just bought this TV and I'm just wondering if there's any recommendations that I need to do first setting it up. I don't have 3000 series card but I'll be using it as a TV for now and for ps5 when it comes out.
 
4RunnerTE said:
Is that Club 3D HDMI cable better/different than any other 2.1 cable that is 48 Gbps, such as from Monoprice or Ruipro?
Click to expand...

I don't know how but it's worse, it doesn't even work for me with the club3d adapter, and i've tried 2 of them from amazon.

My belkin cable works ok at 4k120hz though.
 
4RunnerTE said:
Is that Club 3D HDMI cable better/different than any other 2.1 cable that is 48 Gbps, such as from Monoprice or Ruipro?
Click to expand...

At least the one I have does not perform any different from the CableMatters "4K 120 Hz" cable I have when using the Club3D adapter.
 
Betauser said:
Just bought this TV and I'm just wondering if there's any recommendations that I need to do first setting it up. I don't have 3000 series card but I'll be using it as a TV for now and for ps5 when it comes out.
Click to expand...
  • Use Game mode for consoles to get the lowest input lag and note that there is a separate Game HDR mode you should select for HDR gaming.
  • Use the Expert (bright room) or Expert (dark room) modes for SDR movie/TV content.
  • Set white balance to Warm 2 as that's the closest to accurate 6500K color temp without calibration.
  • Mess with the TruMotion settings for movie/TV content so you don't have judder in panning shots but also avoid that "soap opera" motion look.
  • Make sure HDMI Ultra Deep Color is on for every input and Instant Gaming Response is on for consoles.
 
Ultimately becoming more and more upset over this purchase.

1) OLED motion is inferior to plasma and CRT without BFI. BFI only functions well enough to give you a taste of what could be on CX
2) raised dolby vision blacks
3) nonfunctioning HDR because HDMI 2.1 not working
4) can't purchase receiver yet because HDMI 2.1 not working
5) true blacks on OLED is only a thing if you like them crushed
6) banding ruining many shows and movies because HDMI 2.1 not working and no ampere cards available (halo bands not vertical bands)
7) input lag while very good in some settings can skyrocket (4k resolutions) and no idea if this will be fixed by hdmi 2.1 because HDMI 2.1 not working

At least the sound coming of the TV is reasonable and my panel uniformity is reasonable. At this point I feel dumb for not just buying a used OLED as the CX is still not fully functional with no light at the end of the tunnel.

Highly recommend waiting if you are thinking about buying.
 
flegg said:
Ultimately becoming more and more upset over this purchase.

1) OLED motion is inferior to plasma and CRT without BFI. BFI only functions well enough to give you a taste of what could be on CX
2) raised dolby vision blacks
3) nonfunctioning HDR because HDMI 2.1 not working
4) can't purchase receiver yet because HDMI 2.1 not working
5) true blacks on OLED is only a thing if you like them crushed
6) banding ruining many shows and movies because HDMI 2.1 not working and no ampere cards available (halo bands not vertical bands)
7) input lag while very good in some settings can skyrocket (4k resolutions) and no idea if this will be fixed by hdmi 2.1 because HDMI 2.1 not working

At least the sound coming of the TV is reasonable and my panel uniformity is reasonable. At this point I feel dumb for not just buying a used OLED as the CX is still not fully functional with no light at the end of the tunnel.

Highly recommend waiting if you are thinking about buying.
Click to expand...

makes anxious if I made a mistake buying this TV. This will be my first OLED screen this big. Although, this TV will mainly for console gaming and movies. Hopefully I wont regret it, otherwise, my wife is gonna kill me 🤦‍♂️
 
Not sure what he is talking about for the most part though. HDR works fine with HDMI 2.0. True blacks are a reality you just need to use the display in a dark room (and possibly calibrate it, depends on your unit) because we are all used to the crappy LCD blacks where we can see all the details even in a bright room. A lot of those details we are not supposed to see in the first place (or barely).

I have no banding issues at all, other than content related ones. But those I can see on ANY display unless I apply some heavy processing to get rid of it. Which I'm not going to do because you lose a bit of details then.

Input lag with game mode + PC mode is best in class at 4k (7ms with 120hz, not sure why Rtings measured higher, maybe their laptop GPU?) so I don't know what he is talking about either.
 
flegg said:
Ultimately becoming more and more upset over this purchase.

1) OLED motion is inferior to plasma and CRT without BFI. BFI only functions well enough to give you a taste of what could be on CX
2) raised dolby vision blacks
3) nonfunctioning HDR because HDMI 2.1 not working
4) can't purchase receiver yet because HDMI 2.1 not working
5) true blacks on OLED is only a thing if you like them crushed
6) banding ruining many shows and movies because HDMI 2.1 not working and no ampere cards available (halo bands not vertical bands)
7) input lag while very good in some settings can skyrocket (4k resolutions) and no idea if this will be fixed by hdmi 2.1 because HDMI 2.1 not working

At least the sound coming of the TV is reasonable and my panel uniformity is reasonable. At this point I feel dumb for not just buying a used OLED as the CX is still not fully functional with no light at the end of the tunnel.

Highly recommend waiting if you are thinking about buying.
Click to expand...
That's pretty much how everyone sees this display if one is not part of the OLED cult. Except the spiking lag, that I haven't heard before about... But I am not surprised.
 
Murzilka said:
That's pretty much how everyone sees this display if one is not part of the OLED cult. Except the spiking lag, that I haven't heard before about... But I am not surprised.
Click to expand...
I have one. And its amazing. I’m not part of an oled cult. And every display has upsides/downsides. I’ve had a CRG9, x34 and LG38GN950 and its better than all those except for the widescreen/curve imo. So we know things can be better - but that is not available yet.
 
antonlissone said:
I have one. And its amazing. I’m not part of an oled cult. And every display has upsides/downsides. I’ve had a CRG9, x34 and LG38GN950 and its better than all those except for the widescreen/curve imo. So we know things can be better - but that is not available yet.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Did you find it better in SDR or HDR? Because in SDR I couldn't tell the difference between the 55" c7 and Predator X38. In HDR, unless you have fald and 500+ zones with fast IPS, it is not contest.
For me currently the ideal monitor is the 37,5 LG panel with advanced fald. It doesn't exist but I have hope that maybe it will appear next year.
 
Murzilka said:
Interesting. Did you find it better in SDR or HDR? Because in SDR I couldn't tell the difference between the 55" c7 and Predator X38. In HDR, unless you have fald and 500+ zones with fast IPS, it is not contest.
For me currently the ideal monitor is the 37,5 LG panel with advanced fald. It doesn't exist but I have hope that maybe it will appear next year.
Click to expand...
I’m a black junky and vivid colors. Those are just better on oled. And the image is smoother imo. Especially in fast paced games such as doom or cs:go. For slower single player the delta is less - but still there. But it’s probably personal.
 
antonlissone said:
I’m a black junky and vivid colors. Those are just better on oled. And the image is smoother imo. Especially in fast paced games such as doom or cs:go. For slower single player the delta is less - but still there. But it’s probably personal.
Click to expand...
Ah. Black junky - that explains it, thank you.
 
For LG9/CX owners, what settings are you guys using to distinguish the squares on the first row of Lagom's test:

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

By doing gradual ramp up in Adjusting Luminance values on a 22 Points IRE (similar to this method), at Gamma 2.2, Black Level High/Auto, OLED Light 50, I'm able to just barely see square 3, but practically only square 5 is readily visible.

Is anyone able to get squares 1 and 2 to be distinguishable?
 
Anyone got 3840x1600 resolution working with 120Hz? If so what settings are you using? I want to run it for some specific games but I just get no signal when clicking Test.
1601226232501.png
 
CajunAzn said:
For LG9/CX owners, what settings are you guys using to distinguish the squares on the first row of Lagom's test:

http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/black.php

By doing gradual ramp up in Adjusting Luminance values on a 22 Points IRE (similar to this method), at Gamma 2.2, Black Level High/Auto, OLED Light 50, I'm able to just barely see square 3, but practically only square 5 is readily visible.

Is anyone able to get squares 1 and 2 to be distinguishable?
Click to expand...

In a dark room, I can see even 1,2,3. Remember that they are going to be far harder to see than on a LCD though, because of the infinite contrast. Zoom in or you use your hands/arms around your eyes to block the blinding areas around it (that white square is the biggest culprit). Limitation of our eyes.

My settings:

game mode, PC mode, 4k 60hz RGB (for desktop use and films)

Warm 2, Gamma 2.2, OLED light 20, contrast 85, brightness 50, sharpness 0 (I can't see a difference between 10 and 0), colour 50

Every unit has a bit different factory calibration though.

On white saturation test I miss the last square however.
 
flegg said:
Ultimately becoming more and more upset over this purchase.

1) OLED motion is inferior to plasma and CRT without BFI. BFI only functions well enough to give you a taste of what could be on CX
2) raised dolby vision blacks
3) nonfunctioning HDR because HDMI 2.1 not working
4) can't purchase receiver yet because HDMI 2.1 not working
5) true blacks on OLED is only a thing if you like them crushed
6) banding ruining many shows and movies because HDMI 2.1 not working and no ampere cards available (halo bands not vertical bands)
7) input lag while very good in some settings can skyrocket (4k resolutions) and no idea if this will be fixed by hdmi 2.1 because HDMI 2.1 not working

At least the sound coming of the TV is reasonable and my panel uniformity is reasonable. At this point I feel dumb for not just buying a used OLED as the CX is still not fully functional with no light at the end of the tunnel.

Highly recommend waiting if you are thinking about buying.
Click to expand...

To me none of these are big enough issues to make a big deal about. Let's break them down.

1) OLED has only sample and hold blur really so for this type of display it does a great job. I don't feel motion is an issue on it at all. I gave my Panasonic plasma to my parents and sure it does look great but it's only 1080p and does not do HDR.
2) May get fixed eventually.
3) HDMI 2.1 does work and HDR does work, with some chroma subsampling issues at the time of writing. Again not an issue for games or movies when movies are generally 10-bit 4:2:0 and you won't notice 4:2:2 in games.
4) Same as above. As long as a receiver has HDMI 2.1 ports you should be good.
5) Don't know about this one. Looks fine to me.
6) Again haven't seen this be an issue. I would expect banding issues to be more prevalent on streaming services due to the crappy bitrates of some of them.
7) I can't tell any difference in input lag when running in game mode between 1080p, 1440p or 4K. It's just not worth worrying about and certainly does not "skyrocket". If you can feel a difference then you have keener senses than I do.

I sometimes feel like some of you can't be satisfied with anything except a non-existing ideal display. Everything has its compromises and you can freely pick which ones are ok to you.
 
Vighi said:
Anyone got 3840x1600 resolution working with 120Hz? If so what settings are you using? I want to run it for some specific games but I just get no signal when clicking Test.
View attachment 283377
Click to expand...

For me these exact settings work perfectly fine for adding 3840x1600 @ 120 Hz using the Club3D adapter. I would wait for firmware or driver fixes. Setting the desktop to that resolution tends to drop it out of HDR though but you can get 3840x1600 and HDR working together in games just fine.
 
kalston said:
In a dark room, I can see even 1,2,3. Remember that they are going to be far harder to see than on a LCD though, because of the infinite contrast.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the tip about blocking ambient light from the brighter squares. I'll try that in the evening.

I don't quite get this point about true blacks making it more difficult than LCD for the darkest squares though.

Is this because human eyes have lower sensitivity at low light values (ie. close shades of gray are easier to distinguish than close shades of black)?
 
kasakka said:
For me these exact settings work perfectly fine for adding 3840x1600 @ 120 Hz using the Club3D adapter. I would wait for firmware or driver fixes. Setting the desktop to that resolution tends to drop it out of HDR though but you can get 3840x1600 and HDR working together in games just fine.
Click to expand...

Does the adapter support gsync? If not, do you know if there are plans to?
 
Svengali said:
Does the adapter support gsync? If not, do you know if there are plans to?
Click to expand...

It does not but Club3D posted a "G-Sync works!" pic on Twitter then a bit later said "no wait, our mistake, not working". So I guess they are actually working on it and have gotten to the point that they can enable it but it does not actually work. It might needs the LG CX firmware update first. G-Sync is just not an option with the adapter at the moment and the reported EDID says VRR range is zero when it is 40-120 Hz over HDMI 2.0.

So fingers crossed they can get it working and issue a firmware update.
 
kasakka said:
For me these exact settings work perfectly fine for adding 3840x1600 @ 120 Hz using the Club3D adapter. I would wait for firmware or driver fixes. Setting the desktop to that resolution tends to drop it out of HDR though but you can get 3840x1600 and HDR working together in games just fine.
[/QUOT
Click to expand...
Then it should work with HDMI 2.1 also? I'm running 8bit(chroma subsampling issue with 10bit) and without HDR.
 
Vighi said:
Then it should work with HDMI 2.1 also? I'm running 8bit(chroma subsampling issue with 10bit) and without HDR.
Click to expand...

Yes it should, no idea why you get a blank screen. Also chroma subsampling issue exists at 8-bit too. Basically any 100-120 Hz resolution except 1440p has the problem. 8 vs 10 bit does not matter.
 
Anyone have recommendations for HDR PC games that look incredible on the CX? My 48" arrives Wednesday, and I’m really looking for something with that “wow” factor. Will be running @ 4K with an RTX 3090 that I just installed this weekend.

Also, is there a difference between selecting 4:4:4 or RGB when gaming?
 
es-wi said:
Anyone have recommendations for HDR PC games that look incredible on the CX? My 48" arrives Wednesday, and I’m really looking for something with that “wow” factor. Will be running @ 4K with an RTX 3090 that I just installed this weekend.

Also, is there a difference between selecting 4:4:4 or RGB when gaming?
Click to expand...

I love how Doom Eternal looks in HDR.
 
kasakka said:
Yes it should, no idea why you get a blank screen. Also chroma subsampling issue exists at 8-bit too. Basically any 100-120 Hz resolution except 1440p has the problem. 8 vs 10 bit does not matter.
Click to expand...
Guess I'll wait for the new firmware and new Nvidia drivers then. When running with 8bit instead of 10 text does look better for me in Windows right now.
 
CajunAzn said:
Thanks for the tip about blocking ambient light from the brighter squares. I'll try that in the evening.

I don't quite get this point about true blacks making it more difficult than LCD for the darkest squares though.

Is this because human eyes have lower sensitivity at low light values (ie. close shades of gray are easier to distinguish than close shades of black)?
Click to expand...

Yeah because OLED blacks are so deep (goes down to absolute black). The human eye is not so good at distinguishing very dark details if you have lights blasting in your eyes at the same time. With LCD it's not just blacks that are raised but also the (very) near black to some extent.
 
I was exaggerating a bit out of frustration in my last post. But the bottom line is we have been waiting some time for fixes and compatible tech..... And those that have come have revealed more and more problems

Maybe a firmware since fixed the 4k input lag since I last tried gaming on this.... but considering you can't even use VRR right now and test it.... Well.... more waiting and seeing.

Being disappointed with OLED motion is partly on me for not doing my due diligence first, but I thought BFI would be more functional than it is. I really notice the sample and hold artifacting in most content... And really anyone can go observe it with the UFO test. Turn on BFI and you'll see close to what CRT and plasma deliver. BFI both darkens and adds input lag (not TOO terribly admittedly) and you cant even use it in many gaming settings.

Yes there is never a perfect display (except for the FW900 if you disregard it's weight). However at least with tech like plasma etc you knew what you were buying and could use it for the appropriate need. With the CX series there's been both false promises (48gpbs) and greatly delayed promises.

Until HDMI 2.1 is hooked up there's a lot of sacrificing one feature to gain another (banding in 4k 120hz), and considering the issues going on with ampere right now..... I'm not about to fork over cash for a video card that's also having issues.... Just to maybe get a few things working on 2.1.

Is this a solid display with likely little risk of burn in with great input lag when it isn't bugging out? Yes. Were features like BFI and 48gps way and basically falsely overhyped? Yes


Might as well add to the gripe list while I'm at it
8) cant permanently turn off pixel shift
9) latest firmware update causes TV to keep popping up a menu asking me if my htpc is an apple device......
 
Last edited:
Vighi said:
Anyone got 3840x1600 resolution working with 120Hz? If so what settings are you using? I want to run it for some specific games but I just get no signal when clicking Test.
View attachment 283377
Click to expand...

This is the exact same thing I am fighting. Not interested in running the display at 3840x2160 until PS5 comes. I want 3840x1600@120hz full time during PC gaming. I ordered a Club3D adapter to test with my 2080 Ti and 3080 but I am sure things will change (hopefully for the better) when the CX firmware fixes start hitting!
 
The lack of gsync support & the instant gaming response sucks, but all you can do is be patient.
It is nice to know that LG & Nvidia are aware of the issue and working on it.

The improved image clarity with the RTX 3080 @ 4k120 RGB 10bit has been real nice and works
a million times better than the club 3d adapter did with my 2080ti.

Most of the negative comments about the 48CX from unsatisfied owners seems to be coming from the
Ultra Wide crowd who are just weird people to begin with anyway....I mean really, no big surprise there honestly....with their freakish hammerheads and such!

1601253751075.png
 
flegg said:
Yes there is never a perfect display (except for the FW900 if you disregard it's weight).
Click to expand...

And it's very small screen which is a huge issue. The is no way I'd go back to such a tiny screen. Even a 27" LCD and the comparable ultrawides only have a 13" tall screen... the fw900 22.5" viewable and is only around 12" tall. Triniton CRTs also have aligment/damper lines in them. The FW900 also has convergence issues, focus issues - having to crack open the massive high energy capacitor and electronics laden chasis to tweak internally to keep tight as the settings "loosen" . Lack of per pixel cripsness as they age ("fuzzy/blob edges" like playing consoles on an old CRT TV)... They age into blooming and/or fading over time as they age and there's nothing you can do about it (without replacing parts or the whole CRT) until they eventually die. Also power suck on startup and a blast like a EMP, they are very sensitive to electric noise in the lines, sensitive to magnetic interference (like speakers) and have other issues like radiation, eye fatigue, and no HDR and HDR's much extended color volume pallete which will be more important as time goes on. Also potential signal support considerations from gpus. They also have a fairly long warm up period before their full saturation, contrast, and sharpness are their best again after they've been off or in standby.

So I wouldn't call them perfect by a long shot. What they do have is 1px of motion blur for essentially "zero" blur during high speed FoV movement / controller panning / camera movement but that is a lot of tradeoffs.

At 120fps on 120hz LCD/OLED you get 50% blur reduction down to a "fuzzy" vibration type blur during FoV movement now instead of the smearing blur you get with 60hz and low frame rate gameplay scenarios. That up to 8ms/8px of "fuzzy blur inside of the lines" is most evident when moving the FoV at high speed so how much clarity is lost is in relation to how fast you are moving your FoV around at any given time. It's also depending on staying at 120fps (solid). At different frame rate spans of frame rate averages, you aren't going to be staying at the 50% blur reduction (vs 60hz baseline) level or motion clarity.
 
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