GA-G33M-DS2R

kirbyrj said:
Isn't there a jumper on the motherboard or a setting in bios to deny write access to the bios? Sounds like if you just move the jumper or change the setting the error message will go away.
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i8088 said:
The earlier DS2R BIOSes have a flash protection setting in bios. Make sure you dont have this enabled.
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Thanks!
However, I've already updated the bios from the original f2 to f4d when that one was announced. I haven't enabled any kind of write protection in neither the bios nor any jumper. I only changed the bios settings to oc a E4300 to the max my ram would alllow with the :mad: 3:5 divider. Unless such write protection should be somehow enabled by default in the f4d bios, I can positively say that it is not enabled. I don't really want to reboot to check for such a setting, though.
I'm afraid that the bios has become corrupted by my initial bios flashing attempt (used the 1.20 first, then the 1.21 - and then again the 1.20). In the first attempt the utility failed to role back to the previous version - it just gave the error message. In the next attempt it did role back, but I'm afraid that it is now to a corrupted version. Can it be that a failed bios flashing attempt somehow write protects the bios (now 'protecting' a bad bios)? If that is the case, any ideas how to unlock it? Will q-flash still work if the bios is fubr?? Thanks again.
 
When I attempted to flash my DS2R with 2 of these recently modded F6 bios it completely failed. At reboot it gave a couple of beeps then rebooted again only to display the onboard bios recovery reflashing stock F6 from the HD (I guess it makes a backup, not sure if backs up while flashing with @BIOS or done after a successful post??)

So even with a completely fubar'd bios the board was able to recover itself from its HD backup, though the 2nd time with a failed modded bios it was not able to complete its recovery several times before finally passing through 100%. I thought I had brick walled the mobo that 2nd time around but it still came through luckily for me.

I would probably take it back to F2 then flash to F7. There might be something in that beta bios causing this??
 
I rebooted with impunity during my own bios problems. I had @bios v1.21 bomb out a number of times during writes, never had a corrupted bios upon reboot.

Your mileage may vary.

Good luck.
 
CO_Hoya said:
I rebooted with impunity during my own bios problems. I had @bios v1.21 bomb out a number of times during writes, never had a corrupted bios upon reboot.

Your mileage may vary.

Good luck.
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Thanks!! I took the chance and rebooted and everything worked! :):) Beforehand I had figured out how to make a usb flash drive bootable - just in case... Flashed to f7 successfully. I'll play more with oc the next few days. The 2.66 divider for 800 fsb cpus is cool!

Thanks kirbyrj, i8088 and CO_Hoya for the help! :cool:
 
Is the new F7 bios working pretty good? I have a GA-G33M-DSR2 on the way from NewEgg along with an E2180 to play with in my MicroFly build.
 
Finally some good news on Gigabyte boards! I was wondering we'll be stuck with the multis... Now I'm one step closer to get one of these babies :D

Just for the record, now 800MHz CPUs have the 2,66x memory divider. That's great, you can make a lot of damage with that one alone. Maybe someday we'll get 1:1 or strap manipulation. But for now, that will do.

Now, can anybody tell me which dividers are available for 1066MHz CPUs with the F7 BIOS? It seems to me it's dumb not to have 1:1 for those, since the 2.66x divider for 800MHz CPUs is basically 1:1 on 1066MHz CPUs... Anyone care to confirm that, please?

Oh, one last thing. Please try NOT using Windows-based software to update your BIOS. Windows doesn't like direct low-level access to hardware, and sometimes thing can go very wrong. Right now, most BIOS have an auto-update feature, or can use a very simple and efficient DOS-based utility. My recomendation is to use those features.

Cheers.

Miguel
 
W6FO said:
Is the new F7 bios working pretty good? I have a GA-G33M-DSR2 on the way from NewEgg along with an E2180 to play with in my MicroFly build.
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I've got the same config. And with old bios F4 with 3.33 divider I managed to aim 3600mhz with ram 1200mhz. Now I am going to get 4000mhz. I hope...
 
__Miguel_ said:
Please try NOT using Windows-based software to update your BIOS. Windows doesn't like direct low-level access to hardware, and sometimes thing can go very wrong. Right now, most BIOS have an auto-update feature, or can use a very simple and efficient DOS-based utility. My recomendation is to use those features.
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Yeah, qflash is probably a safer bet. I wrote Gigabyte asking for the 1:1 divider for 800 cpus for x-mas a week ago (no response - well, fair enough, probably I've sent like 4-5 mails about it so far). The F7 bios seems to work just fine. I now finally can run a e4300 at the 9x333 which I had hoped for when I first bought my present rig ½ a year ago... Just required a small voltage bump to 1.4 and the f7 bios. Nice not having to push the ram to the max. S3 sleep and eist, etc. still works.

For others who might end up with a failed attempt to flash the bios using @bios in windows here is the answer I got from gigabyte (the 7 steps are of course worth trying as well if the failed attempt was from using dos or qflash):

Please try again and follow these instructions(Shut down all programs and so on.) as closely as you can without rebooting:
http://www.gigabyte.eu/FileList/NewTech/old_motherboard_newtech/tech_a_bios.htm

If it still doesn't work there isn't anything else you can do. Reboot and see if it starts, if it doesn't then it's either the BIOS or the CMOS that is dead so try clearing the CMOS:

Take off the on-board battery to leak voltage to clear CMOS. Please refer to the steps below:
1. Turn off power.
2. Disconnect the power cord from MB.
3. Take out the battery gently and put it aside use a metal object to connect the positive and negative pins in the battery holder to make them short for at least one minute (if it doesn't help try shorting them longer, maybe 15 minutes to be sure).
4. Re-insert the battery to the battery holder.
5. Connect power cord to MB again and turn on power.
6. Press Del to enter BIOS and load Fail-Safe Defaults or Optimized Defaults.
7. Save changes and reboot the system.

If it still won't start then the BIOS is dead.
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I got the answer from gigabyte after my problem was solved but still wanted to share it if others should ever be in that situation. Thanks again to the helpful souls here...
 
hey guys. I am seeing a Fail message in the bios under DDR18v in my bios. what is this? should I replace psu?

seems like a rail problem. machine is not booting windows. hanging in the please wait in vista.

I tought it was just a OS corruption but I went looking through the bios and saw this.
 
Setting your DDR voltage to + 0.4 (2.2) will show FAIL under BIOS diagnostic as it is physically past 2.2V. If it was a rail problem I dont think the system would boot.
 
Hey guys.

Flashed F7, no problems. Didn't need no jumper or write protection change.

Download F7, use the self-extractor to save the files onto a USB stick.
Go into BIOS, go into QFlash, go find the F7 file.

Let it run, voila!

Memory speed and ratio aren't detected by CPUZ anymore, but the 2.66 multiplier makes up for it.

Running 333x8 right now, DDR2-885. I hope it'll be a memory limit this time.
 
I got my Q6600 and GA-G33M-S2 from the Egg and put a mini ninja on it and two 2 GB sticks of G.Skill PC6400.

If there are OC BIOS options missing from the -S2, i can't imagine what they could be. There are a whole bunch of memory timing settings and voltage settings.

I bumped the system up to 333 MHz FSB with the memory divider still at 3 and the default Voltage, and then dropped the Voltage a bit. It's reported as 1.23 V now (and set to 1.28 V IIRC). The memory defaulted to 1.9V and 5-5-5-15 as specified. The system has been running Orthos without errors for a few hours now.

So 1 GHz RAM and 3 GHz CPU with minor undervolting...not too shabby. :D

I really don't have any interest in running it hotter and faster than that, but I might play around with it to see how high it will go tomorrow -- after i put a fan on the mini ninja. That thing is amazing!

So, to anyone hesitating to get the -S2 instead of the -DS2R (thereby saving themselves $25 or so), you don't give up much (besides the RAID and ESATA).
 
aldam said:
I've got the same config. And with old bios F4 with 3.33 divider I managed to aim 3600mhz with ram 1200mhz. Now I am going to get 4000mhz. I hope...
Click to expand...


For me F7 has been a worthwhile upgrade. More stable overclock. I get my E6400 from 266 to 400 with everything at default bar memory at 2x multiplier. It was a bit hit and miss with F4a BIOS (which I have saved in case I wanna go back). This just seems solid and stable.

So now I am considering a 2nd DS2R and E2180. As long as I buy DDR-1066 memory I could run it at 400mhz FSB and ram at 1066 with 2.66 multi yes? Seems a no-brainer to do that as DDR-1066 isn't expensive. :cool:
 
Hmm... I have the S2 board with F6 and already have the 2.66 multi? Is the F7 bios only for the DS2R board?
 
I have try to use SpeedFan to control the two Fans in this mobo. But Speedfan detects them but I can increase or reduce the speed of the CPU and System FAN. Anyone with this problem?

I have modified the Speed option in the bios but the result is the same!!

Could you control the speed of the fans with SpeedFan?
 
comuneros said:
I have try to use SpeedFan to control the two Fans in this mobo. But Speedfan detects them but I can increase or reduce the speed of the CPU and System FAN. Anyone with this problem?

I have modified the Speed option in the bios but the result is the same!!

Could you control the speed of the fans with SpeedFan?
Click to expand...

You have to click Configure->advanced->chip and change fan mode to software controlled.
 
Methanoid said:
So now I am considering a 2nd DS2R and E2180. As long as I buy DDR-1066 memory I could run it at 400mhz FSB and ram at 1066 with 2.66 multi yes? Seems a no-brainer to do that as DDR-1066 isn't expensive. :cool:
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Yes.
But you must remember that fsb400 with E2180 gives you 4000mhz. Not every cpu achieve this result.
For 24/7 config with e2180@4000mhz you would have to install a good WC system.
 
I've played more with my Q6600 and G33M-S2 box. It was able to overclock stably (orthos + superpi + atitool + file copy) to 3.3 GHz without much trouble (1.34V setting). To reach 3.4 GHz stably, i had to push up the Vcore more than was sensible for a fanless CPU HSF, but i did get it there by setting the Vcore to around 1.37V. I tried 400*9 (3.6 GHz) @ 1.4V with the 2 divider on a whim, and was able to mess around at the Windows desktop, but it (not surprisingly) errored out right away in orthos when i ran it. The other component voltages seem to be stable for these overclocks, so with better cooling, i'm pretty sure i could run stably at 3.6 GHz.

My goal was to find a point a bit lower on the steep power/performance curve, so after I measured an idle power at the wall of 71W @ 3GHz/1.3V, I dropped back to 2.7 GHz and 1.2V. The idle power was 60W and the load was 124W. In addition, the CPU stayed below 65°C with the passively cooled mini ninja. At 1.17V, the system errored out immediately in Orthos, so I will leave it at 2.7GHz core, 900 MHz RAM, 300 MHz FSB, and 1.2V vcore. It's still an overclock, and also a healthy undervolt. It's also extremely quiet. Not exactly the [H] cup of vodka-spiked tea, but that's the way i swing these days.

My old duallie P3 Tualatin 1.26 GHz with Geforce4 Ti 4200 and two fast SCSI drives idles at ~140W and makes a racket -- and has less than half the performance of this system -- so i'm impressed.
 
aldam said:
Yes.
But you must remember that fsb400 with E2180 gives you 4000mhz. Not every cpu achieve this result.
For 24/7 config with e2180@4000mhz you would have to install a good WC system.
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Drop the multi....??? 8x400=3200 with good mem bandwidth
 
Or you could run high multi, low mem speed to leave your timings tight.

I'm going to go for CAS3 @ 9x311, or CAS4 @ 8x350. Can't go higher than 2.8GHz ;_;
 
Hi, I have this motherbord and a apevia X-qpack 2 case with a E6750 stock clocked cpu. The stock cooler that came along with my cpu does not go to its full RPM when the CPU gets hot, it stays at 800 rpm all the time. My cpu core temps goes to 68 C. This is alot.

Does anyone have a fix for this? I have the bios version F7.

Thanks
 
heyra said:
Hi, I have this motherbord and a apevia X-qpack 2 case with a E6750 stock clocked cpu. The stock cooler that came along with my cpu does not go to its full RPM when the CPU gets hot, it stays at 800 rpm all the time. My cpu core temps goes to 68 C. This is alot.

Does anyone have a fix for this? I have the bios version F7.

Thanks
Click to expand...
You can disable fan speed control in PC Health Options.
 
Yeah, but i dont want the fan to be on max rpm all the time. The noise goes up. But thanks anyway
 
ok forget about the fan, I am new to this kind of thing but not very new.

I have a E6750, running at 2,66 Ghz with Corsair TWIN2X 6400 DDR2 ram, running at 800 Mhz. So now i want to overclock the cpu to 3 Ghz. I want to know one simple thing, is the only thing i need to do is to change to FSB from 333 Mhz to 375 Mhz? Do i have to change the ram divider? it does not have 1:1 so i dont know what to do here. I know that i dont need to change any volts and so untill the system becomes unstable, it is only a 333 Mhz overclock. Do i need to change anything else?

Any help would be much appriciated.

Thanks
 
All DS2R BIOS' have access to a 1:1 divider with a FSB1333 processor.

In case you were actually looking for a "1:1", you're actually looking for the multiplier "2.00x" in the MIT.
 
ok i got it,i set the multiplier to 2 in MIT and now CPU-Z is showing 1:1 for the memory. Thanks. I hope the system dont crash on me now.

Thanks
 
I have this board set up now and working great - except after I flashed the F7 bios it no longer booted with 4 GB of memory. I have 4x1 GB sticks of A-Data Vitesta DDR2-800. Not a terrible problem since a 32-bit OS can't use it all anyway, but still annoying. I thought I had bricked it when it didn't post... until the thought of removing a stick occurred. The memory (and other) voltages were stock 1.8 V. Any ideas? Could it just be that the board no longer likes these sticks?

I don't recall what the original bios version was, but it just now occurred to me that maybe it was trying to run the memories at some odd speed/divider after the flashing since I have an E6600, and adding the stick back now just might work. I guess I'll get back to you on that...

Anyway, it undervolts nicely. Initial test of FSB & (G)MCH undervolted one notch dropped system idle&load temps about 5 degrees. Not that it varies much with an HR-05 on the NB though (never even tried the stock heatsink). 1.1500 vcore dropped CPU load temps 10 degrees, by the way.
 
I was using them in the previous build for a year right before changing the motherboard (from P5B Deluxe). Well, two of them at least, I bought and added two more during that year. They should all work fine - at least memtest86 runs long time ago never revealed anything. Can't recall when I did those tests, though. I could shuffle the sticks around when I get to it.
 
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