DAN A4-SFX: The smallest gaming case in the world

No because you need some left space for the front I/O. (arround 12-20mm)
 
Urelure said:
That would be very misleading for anyone just skimming through the thread that might get the idea this is supported. Don't think it's a good idea.
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I think its a fine idea as long as there is a disclaimer.

Knowing that an AIO cooler will fit with technically no modification required, is an amazing bonus. The vent holes could likely be the mounting spot for a radiator or fan, so it is in a way, unoficially supported.
 
JoeOnePack said:
I think its a fine idea as long as there is a disclaimer.

Knowing that an AIO cooler will fit with technically no modification required, is an amazing bonus. Technically the vent holes can be the mounting spot for a radiator or fan, so it is technically unofficially supported.
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I see your point, but still...
 
Urelure said:
I see your point, but still...
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Seeing a rendering of an unofficially supported 120mm AIO in this wonderful >7liter case doesn't interest you? :)

I know this would tickle the fancy of a bunch of people who might be underwhelmed by the CPU cooler support. Also the fact that this option would allow users overclocking support?

Mark me down for a rendering because I'm intrigued!
 
Hi,

here is a picture of the case with a SFX-L PSU. It's looks so heavy :D.
As you can see i change one thing on the case. I shorted the top borderline on the right side in the area of the SFX PSU. The reason for it is, that you can now push the SFX with mounting adapter directly in the right position.
In the last version you have to push the PSU a bit down, than you can push it in the case and move it up to the final position. The advantage of the change is, that we need 10mm less space for the mounting process. In the last version, SFX-L would only fit, if you remove the bottom plate, mount the PSU and remount the bottom plate.

I am sorry for the quality of the SFX-PSU (Screws, FAN and FAN-grill) in the rendered pictures, but actually i haven't the time to made a better one. Between SFX-L and HDD are 28mm left space. (measurement between topside HDD and Topside modular connector)

On new thing that you can see on the picture is a single HDD mounted without a HDD-Bay. It is you choice, if you want to mount it single or in the bay. Both variation are supporting mounting with rubber spacers.




@JoeOnePack: Maybe i can make a rendered picture of your wish next week.
 
dondan said:
Hi,

here is a picture of the case with a SFX-L PSU. It's looks so heavy :D.
As you can see i change one thing on the case. I shorted the top borderline on the right side in the area of the SFX PSU. The reason for it is, that you can now push the SFX with mounting adapter directly in the right position.
Click to expand...

So, is there now an additional 10mm of space between the left side panel and the SFX PSU? For a total of 56mm~?

@JoeOnePack: Maybe i can make a rendered picture of your wish next week
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Thank you so much Dondan. I think it would be good publicity for your campaign anyways. ;)
 
No only for the process of mounting you have 10mm more space in the height. I dont change the size of the case.

sfxm3ug3.jpg
 
What's the distance between the edge of the top mobo and the top of the case? Could an SSD fit in there, by bending the pci-express riser a bit more to make room for it?
 
nice! i need maximum one 2.5 drive for SSD (might be replaced with an M2 SSD)

so SFX-L is fully compatible now!
 
nbaraka said:
I use their lower-power power supply and it simply works out of the box and is stable. I can't say anything about their higher end boards, but they have rather positive user rating in their aliexpress shop.
There is also kind of review available in german forum:
http://www.computerbase.de/forum/showthread.php?t=1294120
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Checkout this Pico Box 500W monster DC-DC psu.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-Shipping-X7-ATX-400-400W-High-Power-24PIN-DC-ATX-Power-Supply/211500_747813627.html
 
Siba said:
The URL says 400w, but the page says 500w. Which one can we trust? :D
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I'm sure it just lost something in the translation ;)

The PSU they show there and specs are different from the 400W on Pico's website, where they don't show the 500W. As far as who or what to trust? Buyer beware on aliexpress.
 
Be aware that for that board to run a full 400-500W, you'll want two 19V bricks. But for most cases and configs an HDPLEX with the Dell 330W will be enough.
 
NXXN said:
Sandblasted and anodized like Streacom.

st-f1c-evo-ws-both.jpg
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I have a black Streacom case (FC5 Evo) with that sandblasted finish, and it's horrible! It attracts dust like crazy and it's almost impossible to wipe it clean because it's just like fine sandpaper. It's the only thing I really hate with the Streacom cases. :(

You have been warned. :D
 
Hey guys a little Update from me:

My last change eleminating the bend on the SFX mountingare was not as good as i thought. The case will lose stability if i short this bend, so i made the decision to add it but make it shorter in the SFX mounting area from 10 to 5mm. Now the case is stable again. And we have enough space for easily mounting a SFX-L PSU.
Furthermore the best thing i found out, that you must not install the SFX-L with premounted cables. You have enough space to mount them afterwards.
solidmrusu.jpg
 
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The top left hand corner of the side panel could maybe do with a bit more security, so maybe an extra clip on the front edge near the top would be useful.

You could move the existing one in the middle down a bit.
 
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dondan said:
My last change eleminating the bend on the SFX mountingare was not as good as i thought. The case will lose stability if i short this bend, so i made the decision to add it but make it shorter in the SFX mounting area from 10 to 5mm.
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Just a heads up, the flanges on the M1 are 12mm (inside measure)/13.5mm (outside), which I believe is the minimum is required if you don't want to notch the bend. The reason for the notching is that the cutouts for the toolless plastic clips that hold the side panel are too close to the bend and there's a risk of it not bending correctly. The first M1 prototype had slightly shorter flanges at the top and required notching, which you can see here (look just above the clips on the top rail). They weren't really a problem in the M1 (though I modified the design anyway to get rid of them), but in your design these notches would be visible from the outside.
 
Necere said:
Just a heads up, the flanges on the M1 are 12mm (inside measure)/13.5mm (outside), which I believe is the minimum is required if you don't want to notch the bend. The reason for the notching is that the cutouts for the toolless plastic clips that hold the side panel are too close to the bend and there's a risk of it not bending correctly. The first M1 prototype had slightly shorter flanges at the top and required notching, which you can see here (look just above the clips on the top rail). They weren't really a problem in the M1 (though I modified the design anyway to get rid of them), but in your design these notches would be visible from the outside.
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Could it be different between aluminum and steel?
 
Necere said:
Not sure, but steel is stiffer and can therefore be thinner than aluminum, so that by itself can save a couple mm in the design.
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True, but aluminum being softer means it's easier to bend, and maybe it's more forgiving in terms of the required flange... I'm interested to find out since I need the information for my case design.
 
Necere said:
Just a heads up, the flanges on the M1 are 12mm (inside measure)/13.5mm (outside), which I believe is the minimum is required if you don't want to notch the bend. The reason for the notching is that the cutouts for the toolless plastic clips that hold the side panel are too close to the bend and there's a risk of it not bending correctly. The first M1 prototype had slightly shorter flanges at the top and required notching, which you can see here (look just above the clips on the top rail). They weren't really a problem in the M1 (though I modified the design anyway to get rid of them), but in your design these notches would be visible from the outside.
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Thanks for that information. I will discuss this with LianLi. If they agree i have two possibilities 1. I will add these notches or making the case 2mm longer and 4mm higher. The last option will increase the volume to 7.14L (316x200x113). You are right these notches will be visible from the outside, but i don't know if it will be bad for the optic. Option 3. would be switching from clips to skrews.
 
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nekrosoft13 said:
its available :)

http://www.amazon.com/Id-cooling-Is-vc45-Chamber-Profile-Tdp130w/dp/B00Q8RM1WE

anyone know how tall is the cooler with fan attached?
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It's 45mm. Just a heads up though, I got mine on Wed (ordered from ebay) and unless I'm doing something very wrong (or this thing is defective), it's barely as good or even slightly worse than the NH-L9i.
I've re-seated the thing 5 times already because I still can't believe the underwhelming results I'm getting considering it's rated for 130W TDP. You'd figure there'd be reviews by now so I can confirm my results but i can't find anything yet.
 
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El-Dubya said:
It's 45mm. Just a heads up though, I got mine on Wed (ordered from ebay) and unless I'm doing something very wrong (or this thing is defective), it's barely as good or even slightly worse than the NH-L9i.
I've re-seated the thing 5 times already because I still can't believe the underwhelming results I'm getting considering it's rated for 130W TDP. You'd figure there'd be reviews by now so I can confirm my results but i can't find anything yet.
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As Silent PC Review keep repeating, it's extremely important with good contact between heatsink and heat spreader, and a slightly convex base surface on the heatsink usually works out best. How's the base on this one? Flat or convex (or perish the thought: concave)?

Also, have you tried the same fan on both (NH-L9i and this one) as a comparison?
 
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