Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

re: multi input overclocking...

Another OCN guy says it lets hime clock it high, but it drops frames like crazy.

Sounds like a pipe dream, any more.

BB
 
BB Gun said:
re: multi input overclocking...

Another OCN guy says it lets hime clock it high, but it drops frames like crazy.

Sounds like a pipe dream, any more.

BB
Click to expand...

That was me. I can run any other tests if anybody wants to see anything specific, but nothing is smooth when pushing anything over 70hz. At first I was crazy excited, then I started playing a couple games and went :confused::(
 
NCX said:
The yellow tinting is normal for IPS. Sometimes each side can be tinted differently ex: left pink, right green.

There was some one on [H] who went through 10x HP LP2475's before he received a tint free unit.
Click to expand...

Add me to the list, I went through 3x U2711's to get one that didn't have yellowing from the left/right. Then I had a U2412 that also had yellow tinting on the left. The only perfectly uniform colour monitor I had is a Benq 24" VA panel.

My catleap just passed customs, should be here in a day or two I guess o_o
 
Does anyone have a profile that creates a more natural warm tone/white point. All three profiles are way to cool to use everyday. Other then this, I love my catleap monitor.
 
Phishy714 said:
Now, this is the power brick that I am currently using for my CrossOver that came in the box:

POWER.jpg



Can anyone point me in the right direction in getting a correct power brick for my monitor? I do have have an Xbox 360 - which I can probably just use that in the mean time (correct me if I'm wrong on this), but I definitely need an extra one. Thanks!
Click to expand...

I am not sure if you already have this resolved but from the image above (sorry I needed to refer to the image so that is why I didn't cut from this reply), the power brick works for AC 220V 50-60Hz 1.2A to bring out DC 24V 5A. Since our line power is AC 110V 60Hz, the output voltage may become lower than 24V DC given on the brick spec, and thus your monitor may be underpowered.

One item that seems to be suggested (over at the OC forum) is this one
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1675393&page=58

From the specs it seems the voltage input range of this is AC 100V-240V 50-60Hz for an output voltage of 24V 5A DC. Which falls into the line voltage capability for the US.

For all I know, the brick you have may be able to take an input line voltage of 100V-240V as well but only is designated for 240V. However, this is speculation and if you go by the rating of the brick it is not compatible with the line power for this country.
 
Just got my Catleap, it is INSANE!! Need to hold back from buying more... I ordered it Tuesday night and got it Friday from dcsamsungmall. Fortunately I did get a glossy panel and if I do order more will ask to make sure I get glossy.

Now to work on getting a better stand... I still can't believe this deal. Anyone holding back needs to just go for it. I don't think we will see prices like these anytime soon from Apple, Dell, HP etc.
 
zxfreese said:
Welp Dream-Seller accidently sent me a Crossover instead of the PB2700. He now wants me to pay up an extra 50 for the monitor or deny the UPS man and then he will resend the monitor. To make it even better(?), he said if i dont do either he will fire his entire staff and his company will be in shambles... WTF DID I JUST WAKE UP TO!?

Ughghg. Is the Crossover worth the extra 50?
Click to expand...

poindexter said:
wow, he must operating on some very slim margins for this to bankrupt the "company"... or he's just bullshitting you.
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Inside info from an internet acquintance in Korea:
Most of his staff are actually North Koreans who get around $1.40 a day...
 
Maybe you should take the monitor and not pay him just to screw him over for trying a tactic as lame as guilt tripping a customer.
 
I got mine today, it looks good but the right side is noticeably brighter than the left side. Sounds like it's a common issue with these monitors. I also have a dead pixel an inch from the left, it's in the corner so it's not a big deal.
 
araman said:
How are you getting these to work? I've loaded these ICMs and have set, in Windows 7, Catleap-native.icm as the default profile for my Crossover and nothing appears to be changing?

I'm far too used to on-screen calibration, so I must be doing something wrong here...
Click to expand...

Loaded them inside win7 calibration utility and set as default.

Check your vid card setting, it may be overriding the color scheme.
 
BDV said:
Loaded them inside win7 calibration utility and set as default.

Check your vid card setting, it may be overriding the color scheme.
Click to expand...
Yeah, thought that might be the problem, but I disabled Catalyst Control Center from loading and even with that off, not seeing any changes. I don't get it.
 
Usually I was able to toggle between uncalibrated and calibrated by clicking the checkbox on "Use my settings for this device," but ever since I reinstalled Windows it doesn't toggle and stays calibrated. If I reactivate ATI's color control then it's able to return to uncalibrated, and if I go back into Control Panel > Color Management, go into the Advanced tab, and click "Reload current calibration," then I get calibration back with the respective icc profile.
 
My calibrations don't stick for long; once I open a fullscreen game, and exit, it'll screw up my colour profiles and go to no profile. Can't get 'em to stick. (doesn't have anything to do with the Catleap in particular)
 
ShinyFalcon said:
Usually I was able to toggle between uncalibrated and calibrated by clicking the checkbox on "Use my settings for this device," but ever since I reinstalled Windows it doesn't toggle and stays calibrated. If I reactivate ATI's color control then it's able to return to uncalibrated, and if I go back into Control Panel > Color Management, go into the Advanced tab, and click "Reload current calibration," then I get calibration back with the respective icc profile.
Click to expand...
Don't know what I did to get it to work, but I'm just going to chalk this up to a MS product quirk. Working now, thanks for your help.
 
I received my Crossover LED-P: no back-light bleeding at maximum brightness and no dead pixels or dust under the glossy screen.

Colour temperature was 8300k out of the box,(strong blue dominance, it did not destroy skin tones though) max brightness was 277cdm/2 and the black level was 0.33cdm/2 for a contrast ratio of 834:1. This type of variance (Playerwares measured 1100=1200:1) is typical for LG panels because LG sucks.

defaultpng.png


Calibrated

capng.png


I am pretty disappointed, but being an LG panel I should have expected this. I will try and calibrate it by adjusting the blue in the Nvidia Control panel and see if that prevents such a large contrast reduction.

Here it is
crossover002.jpg
 
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kevinsbane said:
My calibrations don't stick for long; once I open a fullscreen game, and exit, it'll screw up my colour profiles and go to no profile. Can't get 'em to stick. (doesn't have anything to do with the Catleap in particular)
Click to expand...
follow these instructions: Link

This link will take you to a thread at OC.net See first post in section color adjustments. It tells you how to apply custom color profiles and to make them stick.
 
Just got the catleap a couple hours ago. Conclusion: superior to the Dell U2711 in every way, except for the stand which wobbles as I am typing this message :(

Now there is one dead green sub pixel in the bottom right quadrant of the screen. I am not concerned though as it is not noticeable unless I go looking for it. On the upside the screen uniformity on my unit is quite good; no major colour temperature shift when reading text on a white background across the screen. That is of more importance to me than the dead sub pixel.

The colour, contrast and gamma is very good out of the box. I don't even feel it really needs a calibration, but I'll do one anyway. No backlight bleeding either, but obviously there is a bit of IPS glow as expected.

Resolution and text readability is absolutely superb. On the U2711 I couldn't read text and had to increase the DPI, on this I don't need to increase it at all, it is just crystal clear. Just beautiful. No issues with reflections either. Compared to my glossy laptop screen it is actually less reflective than that. There is no way I would ever go back to a matte screen after this.

I give this monitor a thumbs up, except for the wobbly stand which is borderline intolerable. YMMV.
 
I just compared to the 10bit lut loader that Toasty posted and it definitely makes an improvement :)

Gray scale ramp is now perfectly linear and perceptually uniform. Amazing stuff :)

I only wish there was a way to enforce it when games try and take it over. For that I have to use MCW which is 8-bit.

What we need is a version of dispwin.exe that monitors the LUT for any changes and enforces it like MCW does.
 
Vengance_01 said:
follow these instructions: Link

This link will take you to a thread at OC.net See first post in section color adjustments. It tells you how to apply custom color profiles and to make them stick.
Click to expand...

I could not get that to work. Even with my settings exactly the same as in that post, my calibration would not stick.

sonic_blue said:
Use Monitor Calibration Wizard. It sits in the tray and enforces your LUT when games try and reset it. Plus you can see your LUT and edit it :)
Click to expand...

I tried that, and I couldn't get it to work with my setup. I have a dual-monitor setup, the primary reason for my calibration.

I think I might have found a solution in Powerstrip, but I haven't validated it yet.
 
kevinsbane said:
I could not get that to work. Even with my settings exactly the same as in that post, my calibration would not stick.



I tried that, and I couldn't get it to work with my setup. I have a dual-monitor setup, the primary reason for my calibration.

I think I might have found a solution in Powerstrip, but I haven't validated it yet.
Click to expand...

Did you check the boxes "load at windows startup" and "persistent profile, don't let the current profile change"?

Also go into msconfig and remove i1match's lut loader and profile reminder from the startup, and also disable windows colour management in the control panel if you are using that too.

Maybe you have lots of lut loaders conflicting with eachother, but it shouldn't matter because MCW just overrides them all anyway.

Overall it's a 2 step process: first you must get your profile loaded into the LUT of the video card, then you must save it in MCW by typing in a profile name and clicking save. That will save the contents of the video card's LUT into a file in MCW's folder , so you can load it or edit it at any time. In MCW you should see the little picture of the RGB curves changed from its default if your LUT is currently loaded. If its just a straight diagonal line that means your LUT is at its default setting and no calibration is loaded.

The overall process for me is: run a calibration in i1Match, to which i1 Match will load it into the LUT, then once that is done I save it in MCW. Then I disable all other load loaders.

If you are on an AMD card you might want to look at using the 10 bit lut loader as gradients are smoother but honesly you can't actually notice the difference on actual content. But its nice to have anyway :D
 
sonic_blue said:
Did you check the boxes "load at windows startup" and "persistent profile, don't let the current profile change"?
Click to expand...
Yes.

Also go into msconfig and remove i1match's lut loader and profile reminder from the startup, and also disable windows colour management in the control panel if you are using that too.

Maybe you have lots of lut loaders conflicting with eachother, but it shouldn't matter because MCW just overrides them all anyway.
Click to expand...

This sounds like a bad idea...

Overall it's a 2 step process: first you must get your profile loaded into the LUT of the video card, then you must save it in MCW by typing in a profile name and clicking save. That will save the contents of the video card's LUT into a file in MCW's folder , so you can load it or edit it at any time. In MCW you should see the little picture of the RGB curves changed from its default if your LUT is currently loaded. If its just a straight diagonal line that means your LUT is at its default setting and no calibration is loaded.

The overall process for me is: run a calibration in i1Match, to which i1 Match will load it into the LUT, then once that is done I save it in MCW. Then I disable all other load loaders.

If you are on an AMD card you might want to look at using the 10 bit lut loader as gradients are smoother but honesly you can't actually notice the difference on actual content. But its nice to have anyway :D
Click to expand...

I saw the RGB curves the first time I tried MCW. Then after I tried the first time (and it screwed up my colours) it stopped working. Wouldn't save my calibration. And it didn't seem to work anyways when I tried it the first time; when I exited SC2, my profiles were unloaded.

I ended up trying Powerstrip, and it seems to be working.... so far. Will keep trying that for the next few days and see if that keeps on working.
 
NCX said:
I received my Crossover LED-P: no back-light bleeding at maximum brightness and no dead pixels or dust under the glossy screen.

Colour temperature was 8300k out of the box,(strong blue dominance, it did not destroy skin tones though) max brightness was 277cdm/2 and the black level was 0.33cdm/2 for a contrast ratio of 834:1. This type of variance (Playerwares measured 1100=1200:1) is typical for LG panels because LG sucks.


Calibrated

I am pretty disappointed, but being an LG panel I should have expected this. I will try and calibrate it by adjusting the blue in the Nvidia Control panel and see if that prevents such a large contrast reduction.

Here it is
Click to expand...

You keep saying LG sucks and their panels suck, but let's keep in mind this is an approximately $400.00 monitor with an A- panel so you should look on the bright side that you received one that is defect free otherwise. If they were A panels that we paid more for then yeah, I'd agree with the "LG sucks" statement.

Otherwise thanks for the photos and info.

When I calibrated my Achieva with the Eye One Display Pro and BCC 5.0.3 I found the whites turned a pinkish yellow, how does your's compare to (let's say) the S27A850 after calibration? With my older NEC (I1D2 tuned) sensor I found that it was a bit more pinkish, but closer to desired.

The Eye One Display Pro showed a native temp of 6800K and the older I1D2 showed 6280 - 6300K.

I'm going to try again tonight with a bunch of colorimeters and software and post my ICM files for others with the Achieva to try.
 
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I saw a Chinese guide on how to transplant the LG panel to nearly any 27" frame and stand. It was all in Chinese. I lost the link. Can someone post this link for others? The guy used a Asus Frame and Stand.
 
How do you guys usually measure contrast ratios? I've got an i1d2, but I don't know how to get it to give me contrast.
 
I'm guessing there are more than a few people out there that have upgraded to the Catleap from a lesser quality 27" display but one that had a better stand. That's the premises for the upgraded. To transplant the better panel to the frame that has the better stand that doesn't wobble.

The Korean, or Chinese guy put a bubble level at the top of the Catleap with the cheap stand and of course it wasn't level. He then went on to drop the LG panel into an Asus Frame / Stand and then put the Asus panel back into the cheap Catleap case / stand and selling the Catleap ( I assume )

It also makes me think, what a great use for those cheap broken Dell 2711 displays on Ebay and or other really nice 27" Frames / Stands with busted panels that you see on eBay for real cheap. For those of you not wanting to go with a Vesa Mount. This is a viable option. Yes, a bit of extra work but one with real results that in the end, are worth it.
 
10e said:
You keep saying LG sucks and their panels suck, but let's keep in mind this is an approximately $400.00 monitor with an A- panel so you should look on the bright side that you received one that is defect free otherwise. If they were A panels that we paid more for then yeah, I'd agree with the "LG sucks" statement.

Otherwise thanks for the photos and info.

When I calibrated my Achieva with the Eye One Display Pro and BCC 5.0.3 I found the whites turned a pinkish yellow, how does your's compare to (let's say) the S27A850 after calibration? With my older NEC (I1D2 tuned) sensor I found that it was a bit more pinkish, but closer to desired.

The Eye One Display Pro showed a native temp of 6800K and the older I1D2 showed 6280 - 6300K.

I'm going to try again tonight with a bunch of colorimeters and software and post my ICM files for others with the Achieva to try.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I look forward to your post. Like I said, the whites just have to much of a blue tint to them, though its much much better then default.
 
The stand on the Catleap is pretty bad but it's not that hard to put it on a VESA mount.
After taking the original stand off, it mounts pretty nicely on a 3M MS110MB stand,
and you can even rotate it to portrait if you want.
 
Has anyone taken a picture of the back of a Catleap AFTER removing its original stand and mounting via VESA? Because if so, I missed it, and I'm curious to know how decent it looks (just in case I ever have to look at the monitor from the side)...
 
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