Achieva Shimian QH270| $400 IPS 2560x1440 Korean Monitor

Because of these shipment accidents with expensive monitors, the loss of your company is unmeasurable, and our staff who is in charge of shipment is in great danger. If we don’t receive any response from you, the staff will be fired and lose his job. Please help us and the staff out. We really really need your great help. Please send a message back to us ASAP. The wrongly dispatched product will arrive in a few days.

Again, we sincerely apologize for this shipment accident. We beg your deep understanding in advance. We’ll wait for your reply. If you have any other question, please feel free to ask. We’ll try our best to help you out as far as we can. Thanks in advance.

Dreamseller isn't saying that he will fire the entire staff of his company. He is using the word "staff" to mean one guy. He is saying that the one specific guy who was in charge of fulfilling your order is in danger of losing his job over the mistake. It doesn't sound like dreamseller is the person who will fire him either.

IMHO, the polite thing to do is refuse the package. Let him resend the correct one. If you run into problems with the replacement paypal will help you out. Ebay/Payal policies are very much in favor of the buyer.

Dreamseller has proven that he is in business to deliver monitors fast and cheap. He isn't some scammy fly by night seller. How many monitors has this guy sold already? Hundreds? A thousand?
 
I have a theory that the timing controller on the 10-bit LG panels is the one that supports 100hz and that for whatever reason, they were on the Catleap 2Bs.

The NEC PA271W is a 10-bit IPS monitor and uses the same t-con as the Catleap 2B, as seen here http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-MultiSync-PA27W-T-CON-BOARD-6870C-0300B-/37054864546?
I'm researching the same topic myself and i'm pretty sure that's not the Catleap 2B 100hz T-Con board.

I'm not having much luck either, a couple of people have posted the serial number and i think they are getting a digit wrong, which messes up my search results. My search began with Scribby's post here, he has it posted as 68705-0922A, but i believe that #5 is wrong, i replaced it with an "S" and still nothing.

If anyone stumbles upon related info, please post it here, i posted a couple of inquiries over at the Overclock forums as well.
 
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So I unboxed my Catleap Q270SE from Green-Sum today and I need some help. The backlight turns on, my computer recognizes it as a dual-link DVI but it doesn't get a picture. I have tried both an EVGA 9800 GX2, a XFX 5770 and a Sapphire 3850 (thats all I got for Graphics cards around the house). I have tried these all in two different systems (old and new build). All the results are the same. What should I do? Send it back? Pry it open? Advice and quick would be very useful! thanks!

Wings

I've read a couple other reports of this happening. It seems the LVDS cable inside the monitor is coming loose during shipping and somebody said taking the back of the monitor off and replugging it in solved the problem. Another person said using a better quality DVI cable fixed it.
 
Just a heads up, I've seen two people report getting a matte version of the catleap from dcsamsungmall:

vnJ12.jpg


Picture from: http://forums.somethingawful.com/sh...372494&perpage=40&pagenumber=89#post401771623
 
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I can make a custom resolutions up to 2560x1440@95hz on my Catleap Multi, but I can tell it's definitely dropping frames like its still running at 60hz. How can I tell for sure what the max refresh rate is without it dropping frames?

Using the tool here: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433 the monitor doesn't light up all the boxes like it should if it wasn't dropping frames. Also tried Quakelive out and it was AWFUL at 95hz.
 
The multi has a different controller, so it probably can't handle anything other than 60 Hz (and maybe 50 Hz for PAL). Most monitors I've used that drop frames will drop frames at any refresh rate other than 60 Hz.
 
Just a heads up, I've seen two people report getting a matte version of the catleap from dcsamsungmall:

I wonder if that was something that happened at the factory or if there is a matte model that got thrown into the mix somehow.
 
It almost seems like they are just throwing in any 2560x1440 IPS panel they can find. Several people have opened the catleap and found different panel revisions, and a couple even said "For evaluation use only" on the model sticker. Maybe the matte panels are "leftovers" from the HP ZR2740w.

(SD)(A2) with single connector:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/340#post_16696411

(SD)(A2) with two connectors:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16705183

(SD)(B1) with single connector:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16704944

(SD)(B1) with "For evaluation use only" on the sticker:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/890#post_16737761

(SD)(E3) with two connectors:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/400#post_16699758

I get the feeling the (SD)(E3) revision is the one that can get 1100-1200:1 contrast.
 
He had me check the voltage again, pushing a very nice 24.3-24.4 volts (even after I accidently bridged the pins with my multimeter... opps... no black marks so its good right...). Anyway, it won't turn on at all now and I'm beginning to suspect there is something loose near the power button (since it doesn't even get the LED light on and I swear it was there before I moved it). Could someone take pictures of the button area opened up so I can compare them if/when I get daring and open my case. I kind of want to wait and see what green-sum says back but if its something simple and it doesn't void his DOA warranty it saves us all some hassle
 
It almost seems like they are just throwing in any 2560x1440 IPS panel they can find. Several people have opened the catleap and found different panel revisions, and a couple even said "For evaluation use only" on the model sticker. Maybe the matte panels are "leftovers" from the HP ZR2740w.

I can see variances because that's just the way the display industry works especially if the manufacturer is scrambling to keep up with orders/demand. Putting a matte finish panel in something specifically being sold as not being matte though is dicey at best. Perhaps the competition is stiff enough to warrant that but I would think one would have to be in serious jeopardy of losing their market share from the "down time" to source glossy panels to do something like that. Or am I just mistaken and that it just appears to be marketed as a glossy display because that's what everyone was getting?
 
2% chance? Yeah, no thanks. The glossy screen is a huge selling point for any buyer. That's just nuts. I understand about dead pixels or a poorly designed stand but yeah, not with taking a chance on getting a matte finish. I've always thought matte / agressive anti-glare coatings on screens destroyed the end user viewing experience. I want the colors to jump out at me along with the deep blacks. I've personally dealt with many many people telling me and letting it be known that they hated glossy screens and come to find out, they never had one. And when they finally sat down in front of one and used it, they were like, wow, this is really nice. A good example to this is my girlfriend. She had a crappy old ass 20" Acer LCD she got ripped off from Tiger Direct that sold it to her for $189 dollars in 2010 and no where on the main screen did they mention it was refurbished. Anyways. Last year, they had these new de-branded HP 2511x 25" LCD's with glossy screens on sale for $160 - $169 shipped. So we bought a few. But, she didn't want one cause it had a glossy screen. She was really bitching. I was like. Where have you ever seen a glossy screen? She couldn't give me a straight answer. She then said, well, I don't want one because I don't want the light glare or reflections. I told her that it doesn't work that way that the eyes naturally adjust for that and that she would see through any glare or reflections after a few seconds of her eyes focusing as long as the light in the room wasn't extreme. Anyways, long story short, she loved it and to this day will apologize for acting a fool about it once in a great while.
 
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Just don't buy the Catleap, problem solved. With the high chance of not getting a Catleap with extra hz capabilities and the fact that it has the worst stand one might as well get a nicer looking screen (Shimian/Crossover) or the best reviewed one (PCB by Playerwares).

I would pay the 100$ return shipping fee and get a different model vs potentially wrecking my display if I received a matte Catleap.
 
Hey Keevo, I just ordered a Achieva Shimian QH300-IPSMS and only paid $799 shipped.

These 30" monitors are only about 700,000 - 700,500 Korean Won or about $620 - $650 dollars + shipping. Whoever you are doing your pre-order through, you might want to negotiate a bit more aggressively.

Those Korean sellers are charging a huge premium on that display because it's 30".

This will help you out. This is a web site that has a list of many Korean PC part sellers that sell that monitor along with the price. You can click through and it will take you directly to those web sites where you can see the price first hand. You can then provide the link to the re-seller, like I did to negotiate a better price. $50 - $75 dollar profit is better than nothing to these guys and they will take your money if the choice is not taking any of your money at all.

It also helps lower the price if you go around eBay which I did. I'm still protected through paypal.

http://blog.danawa.com/prod/?prod_c=1513288
 
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I got my crossover today. I dont see any dead/stuck pixels which is awesome! It doesnt show the bios with a gigabyte 7970 though :(

That's weird, because I'm using a stock/reference Gigabyte 7970 and the BIOS on my Asus P8P67 is showing up just fine, including post screens for built-in HD controller etc...

But I have the Shimian.
 
So I just got this email from Dcsamsungmall


Hi,

Thank you for shopping from us.

We believe you are using our crossover monitor without problem.

But some customer who are live in USA $ CANADA has complaint regarding A/C Adapter.

We believe you are using this monitor with correct A/C adapter (110v) , but if you are still using A/C Adapter for Korea (220v).

It could be trouble in the future. So we recommend you to change to appropriated adaptor.

If you have inquiry please feel free contact me.

Dcsamsungmall

Best regards

Now, this is the power brick that I am currently using for my CrossOver that came in the box:

POWER.jpg



Can anyone point me in the right direction in getting a correct power brick for my monitor? I do have have an Xbox 360 - which I can probably just use that in the mean time (correct me if I'm wrong on this), but I definitely need an extra one. Thanks!
 
dcSamusungMall is sending me an adapter for free.......unfortunately, I already bought another one. :p
 
dcSamusungMall is sending me an adapter for free.......unfortunately, I already bought another one. :p

I wonder if I can ask him to send me one too lol.. Either that or I can pay you for shipping that brick to me :)
 
For those of you with 2B monitors capable of higher refresh rates, is there any buzzing associated with your monitor running at >60hz?
 
Hooked up my crossover.

Amazing. Slight backlight bleed where the power button is. I don't see any dead or stuck pixels.

The power brick is working fine. Crazy how huge this thing is.
 
crap.
I'll have to buy a new video card. My 480 GTX is struggling at this res.
 
Hooked up my crossover.

Amazing. Slight backlight bleed where the power button is. I don't see any dead or stuck pixels.

The power brick is working fine. Crazy how huge this thing is.

most new lcd of this size have that backlight bleed there have no idea why . . . even the apple i had had it
 
From a friend who got his Shimian Tuesday -

Got it situated and DUal DVI in and......................black screen. Switched ports on the ATI 5870 and................. black screen. Yes backlight was showing and blue on with data present steady on. Heart sinking.
Switched to secondary card ATI 5770 and DVI port only with different DUal Cord............... black screen. Went online to the overclock url (thanks BB) and tried to find where I remembered reading some guy with same issue. The subject is about 500 pages now so held off after 200 or so. One guy said he opened it up and re-seated all ribbons etc. Made sense, was about to do that (didn't want to) when I said to myself, "Ok, let's just try all my best DUal DVI known good cords. Took the 5 all top rated and in use known good and tried first 3 with a no go. Took the 4th which is a 20 foot double sheilded thick wrapped monster and coiled it through. BANG!, works immediately. Tried 5th that was just yer average DUal DVI looking rather like the other 3 7 footers, worked fine.

So she is a bit picky on the cord........make a note.

So if you get one and it appears dead - don't give up hope.

BB
 
From a friend who got his Shimian Tuesday -



So if you get one and it appears dead - don't give up hope.

BB

Sweet jesus. I may have this issue also. I have many DVI cords, but I only tried like 2 of them. Maybe I can scare up another cord somewhere thats better. That's some really sketchy sounding info...
 
My Catleap had problems after I disassembled it to put a new stand on it. Same thing, powered up, no picture. Checked the cables 10 times, no go.

Fixed it by not plugging the power into the monitor with the brick powered on. It worked fine if I plugged the brick in after connecting to the monitor but not before.
 
Have had my Catleap for a few days and I LOVE IT. Its matte... apparently there is a small chance you might get matte. For me it was a very pleasant surprise as I hate glossy and was already prepared for it.
 
Haha wow, I would have been extremely pissed off had I gotten one of these.

Actually, I am the one who took that picture and I am not extremely pissed. I am HAPPY!!!

The finish is perfect. It has no anti glare coating. Its just a very clean matte. I hate glossy because I cant stand glare. I wanna see my screen, not my reflection.

So in my opinion this matte version is the best version and I consider myself very lucky I got it.

I dont get the matte hate on this thread. It has NO disadvantages. No anti glare coating. No reflection. Its just beautiful.
 
The finish is perfect. It has no anti glare coating. Its just a very clean matte. I hate glossy because I cant stand glare. I wanna see my screen, not my reflection.

It's just we have no way of trusting your subjective opinion on how grainy it is, because there are plenty of people who claim Dell U2711 is not grainy. I too prefer a matte screen that is not grainy. But glossy is definitely far superior to grainy. But really, all a matte screen really does is turn specular reflection into a diffuse one. It doesn't actually make your blacks blacker during the day. You still get reflections they are just big soft blobs (diffuse).

You are the second person now who has gotten a matte catleap from dcsamsungmall. If anyone wants to avoid getting a matte, maybe don't buy from dcsamsungmall?
 
You assume my subjective opinion is ignorant. Its not nearly as grainy as the Dell U2711. Picture that without the aggressive anti glare coating.

Its basically between the Dell and the Apple (both which are the same panel)

Is it really that hard to imagine? Its just the screen without gloss and without anti glare coating. Whatever, no sweat off my back. I have a screen that in my opinion is better than the Apple, and better than the Dell's, at half the price. I do agree that if you want glossy and you dont get it its wrong. You should get what you pay for. I was just lucky enough for getting something that to me is better than I paid for.
 
Its basically between the Dell and the Apple (both which are the same panel)

Hmm...have you ever seen a benq bl2400pt/EW2420 (VA panel) or Samsung SA850 (PLS panel)? Those have matte but no grain, and no one has every complained about those. If you could verify it is no worse than those then I would imagine the matte catleaps would become quite popular.
 
I have not seen those but I have seen the Dell and its aggressive AG coating. Those two panels sound just like this is.
 
Are those getting dead/stuck pixels getting them in clumps? My 24" has a bright subpixel which shows up as red on a black background and black on a red background. I don't notice it unless my face is inches from the screen.

If a cluster of pixels are dead/stuck I can see it being a problem.
 
Are those getting dead/stuck pixels getting them in clumps? My 24" has a bright subpixel which shows up as red on a black background and black on a red background. I don't notice it unless my face is inches from the screen.

If a cluster of pixels are dead/stuck I can see it being a problem.

A few people have, but not many I think. Most stuck or dead pixels seem to be single and towards the edges.
 
I keep seeing reports of backlight bleed in the lower righthand corner, and a number of people mentioning how bright the LED from the power button is. Is it possible that there is a connection? Has anyone taken theirs apart to debezel it and seen anything that would indicate the LED from the power button has anything to do with the backlight bleed in that corner? Is backlight bleed typically just a function of how close the layers of the various components of the screen itself are?
 
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