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That's weird, your settings are correct. I could set that resolution on CRU 1.2.6. with an HD5850 / Windows 7 x64 if that helps.i can't do the 1920x900 mode for VDC alignment in CRU
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but i guess it's the same as 1920x1200 but with top and bottom 150rows black.
Well I was just trying to play the game at 800x600 at 144hz, which worked before when I had the 980ti. But I guess the converter and the game dont believe the "lcd vga" could possibly rin at that hz?
nop it told me to do 1920x900, which is not possible in that version of CRUflod, is WinDAS complaining about the resolution?
That's not unusual, the monitor might detect a slight difference between mode 5 and the signal it receives, and calls that a different mode, despite being the same. That can be often prevented by erasing all display settings with a long push on the reset button before using Windas.also: in the factory preset part, i couldn't do mode 5 (gtf_107 or something). it would say the monitor is in mode 10 (which i assume is prime mode?) and gtf_107 is the same settings as prime mode
Good luck ! But it may be faster to actually replace all capacitors since you'll have to desolder them for testing. On the top of that, if one (electrolytic ?) is completely gone, there are probably others pretty worn out, so replacing just one isn't the most durable fix.So a little off topic, but CRT related. I emailed the PVM tech in California with a question regarding a PVM-9L3 issue I'm having. Basically, the monitor lets out a squeal when I turn it on from a cold boot, about 8/10 times. He told me that it's a bad cap in the power supply. So today, I disassembled the thing and have pulled out the G-Block assembly (the assembly that houses the power supply) and tomorrow I'll take said assembly apart and test the caps with my ESR meter. Thoughts and prayers / wish me luck! Hopefully I can find the bad cap, change it, and put it all back together and have it still work - hopefully better than when I disassembled it!
Yeah, that's the problem. I created the custom resolution before I even started the game. I guess I should either redownload it or check if I can check the game's ini settings.You just need a custom resolution utility like CRU or use the custom resolution panel of your graphic card to set the resolution you want,the adapter has no problems with 144 Hz or more.
Yeah, that's the problem. I created the custom resolution before I even started the game. I guess I should either redownload it or check if I can check the game's ini settings.
mystery solveddddd
apparently if you start off in sRGB mode in the OSD menu, you can't adjust settings except for g2 in wpb
wouldn't have spent all afternoon starting from an MPU and doing all the alignments if i knew that
Good luck ! But it may be faster to actually replace all capacitors since you'll have to desolder them for testing. On the top of that, if one (electrolytic ?) is completely gone, there are probably others pretty worn out, so replacing just one isn't the most durable fix.
mystery solveddddd
apparently if you start off in sRGB mode in the OSD menu, you can't adjust settings except for g2 in wpb
wouldn't have spent all afternoon starting from an MPU and doing all the alignments if i knew that
Yeah, that's the problem. I created the custom resolution before I even started the game. I guess I should either redownload it or check if I can check the game's ini settings.
I don't think so.So dumb question... I'm using an ESR meter. They are able to test in-circuit, correct? So far I have only found one suspect/bad electrolytic.
le. But then Sekiro, Monster Hunter World, Wreckfest and Vanquish show black borders no matter what i do
An early observation some of you might interest: i mostly looked forward to playing games like Outrun 2 & F-Zero GX in Dolphin, but the results on a G-Sync screen in 1440p are much smoother, they have no visible stutter at all. They look and play far worse on the crt. No such thing with more recent games or older fps, motion clarity and smoothness are fantastic there.
... on a G-Sync screen in 1440p are much smoother, they have no visible stutter at all. They look and play far worse on the crt.
thanks for the monitors models info,
just for curiosity, and of course if you want, can you please test the following motion clarity test site on those 144hz 1440p monitors, and tell if you can clearly read the text on that map image while the map is moving? if posible, also do the test with those at 60hz as well? thanks
https://www.testufo.com/photo#photo=toronto-map.png&pps=1440&pursuit=0&height=0
I could only check the Acer, but since the LG has a slightly slower response time I presume results are similar. I tried 144, 122 and 60Hz with Gsync enabled and I can safely say all of them are a blur. 144Hz Is best, but I could only read larger fonts such as 'Queens''. I did the same test with ULMB mode on and even at 85Hz results are perfect, everything is legible.
Nice test btw, much easier to see results compared to the UFO ; )
ps: I got a reply from someone still calibrating CRT`s; saying I`d be better off purchasing an X-Rite i1 Display Studio and regularly calibrate the monitor myself. The calibration guide in this thread recommends the X-Rite i1 Display Pro. Any benefits from the Pro over the Studio version or vice versa?
And (is there such a thing as) the best place to find a WinDas cable nowadays?
Well, actually I do not think spacediver's issue is really bad focus, rather bad convergence making the display less accurate. I've quite a bunch of trinitrons and I've yet to see any with focus problems in any area of the display, dynamic focus is absolutely excellent on these. On contrary focus seems to often get bad in the corners on Mitsubishi / Iiyama screens when they age.
by the way for convergence, i think it might be better to use rgb colors like 100,0,255 because blue is harder to see than red with 255,0,255. has anyone tried this before?
Don't get the studio, it's a somewhat neutered version of the pro.
More details here
My recommendation is the OEM rev b (one caveat is that I don't think that version will work with the Xrite software, but you won't be needing that software anyway).
WinDAS cable is not a special cable, it's just a usb to ttl cable. The PL2303HX chipset is the one I use, and I think has been tried and tested successfully by others here.
... i guess you did not test ULMB at 60hz because the monitor did not allow you, did it? from what i have read, modern strobing (ULMB) monitors still suck at strobing at refreshes lower to 85hz due to severe flicker worse than CRT at 60hz, and for that matter, monitor manufaturers decided to lock the option arround minimum 85hz.
also from what i have seen and read, on modern monitors even latest ones a lot of brigtness is reduced when enabling ULMB, and on some monitors trying to overcome that issue brightess becomes higher when strobing, but way too high without the user being able to adjust brigthtness level. did you experience any of these issues with brigntess while using ULMB? ...
Thanks for the recommendation, according to this link https://www.lightillusion.com/i1_display_pro.html the OEM version has the exact same firmware as the Pro Plus version, along with the exact hardware specifications as well. So as I understand it, no harm in going higher spec for CRT, as the Pro Plus version states it has a wider range for brighter HDR screens?
Thanks for clearing out my WinDAS cable confusion as well, any good guides covering that prerequisite process, including setting up WinDAS and eeprom files are more than welcome!