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Discussion in 'Displays' started by mathesar, Sep 13, 2005.
Could you post a link to your guide, MightyJoe?
Actually, it can do 2456x1536@75Hz. Or at least mine will. It's not in the specs, but 2048x1536 is. Horizonal resolution is actually pretty much meaningless on a CRT aside from dot pitch concerns, so 2456x1536 works just fine. You could push it higher, but you'll have to give a bit on the refresh rate. Personally I can't stand 75Hz on the desktop, but it doesn't bother me in a game. For some reason I see the flicker on the desktop, but very rarely when gaming.
CRTs are limited by VSync and HSync. The practical limit is generally in the vertical dimension, as every added line at a given refresh rate pushes the HSync higher. VSync just limits refresh rate. There's a high end, but that doesn't come into play at all at max res. Then there's a low end. Usually it's about 50Hz. As for horizontal resolution, the screen really just doesn't care.
Once you get past 1920x1200 on these screens the dot pitch is larger than the pixels, so things start to get a bit blurry. Personally I find this a rather pleasant effect in some games. It's basically free AA. Usually it works best in FPS games where everything is scaled to the monitor resolution. You get more detail, but the monitor smears it a bit so jaggies aren't really noticeable. It's my preferred way to run an FPS if the game & my system can handle a mode higher than 1920x1200.
Alright, first off let me say that I in no way recommend that you mess around with the innards of a monitor without first understanding that if you mess up you can and will get seriously hurt. You should be experienced around electricity and be able to keep a level head around it. Having said that, here is how I went about adjusting the focus (again, attempt this at your own risk). This guide is mainly to help with getting the case apart easily as that is what caught me up the most.
Start off by unplugging all connections from the monitor. Notice that the capacitors will still hold a charge large enough to kill you dead even while unplugged, so again, do not mess with this if you don’t know what to look out for.
Next, pop of the covers over the upper case screws
Take out 2 upper and 2 lower case screws
This next part is what had me stumped for a while. The case is held together with these tabs even after the screws are removed, and believe me when I say even shaking and pulling won’t get the case halves apart. What you do is look very closely on the seam and you will see very faint marks that show where these tabs are. There are two tabs on each of the sides and two tabs along the top. I used a flat-bladed screwdriver to slip into these tabs and gently pry the case apart, starting at one bottom corner and working my way around the top of the case and down.
Releasing tabs… notice the faint markings on either side of the tab hole
Once all 6 tabs have been gently removed, the case back will freely slide off and this is what you’ll see
Remove the 4 screws holding the top of the metal cage in place, then slide towards the rear to unlock and remove
Now you will be able to see a black box with two pots on top labeled focus 1 and focus 2. One pot adjusts the horizontal focus and one adjusts the vertical focus. DO NOT AT ANY TIME TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE THE MONITOR BUT THE KNOB ON THE BLACK BOX WHILE YOU HAVE IT APART
If you look closely at the pots, you will see that they have a dab of white glue holding their position. Turn the pot in one direction enough to tear this rubbery glue off of the adjustment knob. I didn’t do this at first and made the adjustments only to have it slowly creep back to the starting point.
At this point you have to CAREFULLY power on the monitor after hooking up the necessary power and video cables. You will need to let the monitor warm up for at least 30 minutes to stabilize. From here you turn the pots until the image is clear. I alternated back and forth between the two, fine-tuning each time. These pots are very sensitive so you will need a light touch. I’m saying that just a degree or so of rotation is the difference between unreadable text and crystal clear, so if you do not have that fine of dexterity do not mess with the focus! Do not slip off the knob and touch something else in the case as everything is live... you will be sorry. Once you are satisfied with your results, reassemble the monitor in reverse and enjoy your razor sharp text.
If there are any questions regarding this procedure, let me know.
Edit: My hosting expired and I have rehosted my pics due to popular demand... sorry for the lapse guys!
Also - it is possible to access the pots through the vents on the top rear of the monitor (for the HP version at least). I chose to remove the case in order to see what I was doing better. If you do go the vent route, be sure to over-rotate the pot at first to tear the glue or it will slowly return back to its original position. Also have a very light touch in terms of how much you turn the pot for fine adjustment as it is very sensitive... other than that, good luck guys!
nice post mightyjoe.
Thanks Deetox, the link at Short-Media looks interesting, gonna read more stuff over there. I ordered that cable for WinDAS but I hope the pins are alright, I don't have too much experience making cables but I guess I can figure it out if I need to. When the cable comes in I'm going to try the G2 adjustment and see what it does. I think the issue with picture quality seems to be those retrace lines that you mentioned, its not very noticable but it is visible looking hard at the the bottom right corner on a gray background. It seems to be like a 'grid' of very tightly packed horizontal lines that the picture is projected onto, they appear to be scrolling upward with the refresh cycle at some resolutions. If I press the reset button to get the original picture geometry, then these horizontal lines are hardly visible, but after stretching the width to the sides of the screen then the horizonal lines become much more visible, more visible in the corners than in the center. So these very fine horizontal lines are retrace lines right? Other than the horizontal lines on the picture, my blacks are very black, and they don't seem to get brighter on their own yet.
My main issue is that I'm definitely getting some flicker at 1920x1200@85Hz, its not immediately noticable, easier to see looking closely at the edges of the picture. Rarely the whole screen will flicker for about half a second. At 1920x1200@75,72,70Hz the flicker is even worse than at 85Hz, but 1920x1200@60Hz seems to give the most 'solid' picture, the edges don't move around at all, but 60Hz hurts the eyes.
I've tried swapping the VGA cable with a high quality one that came with a Viewsonic monitor, it has these ferrite blocks on either ends of the cable, supposedly ferrites filter out high frequency interference but I saw no difference with this cable over the first cable without ferrites.
Other than a problem with the FW900 itself (flickering at 85Hz would be a bad high voltage circuit?), I'm thinking either my power is noisy or my video card is outputting a noisy signal. I have a Belkin UPS with 'AVR power conditioning' but it just broke(sucks), If I plugged the monitor into that I'm sure it would've ruled out noisy power. I have a PCIe video card coming in, I'm still using the onboard Geforce 6150 on my MSI K8NGM2-FID motherboard, It's sold as an HTPC motherboard so It's supposed to have high quality video and audio, but I guess it might be underpowered to drive FW900s. From what I understand about motherboards, any integrated components such as audio and video will always get some noise from the other lower quality components on the motherboard. A separate audio card and video card is supposed to isolate them from the noisy motherboard components so they output a better quality signal.
I'm interested in that geometry problem with the picture 'hooking' outward in the upper-right corner, mine was always like that, it only showed up for you after some time? I'm still running this FW900 with the case off but I didn't try adjusting the convergence magnets yet, haven't read enough about adjusting these magnets to be confident messing around with them. The geometry magnets seem even trickier than the convergence magnets, they are actual loose magnets that you have to move around til the geometry straightens out? I wonder if anyone has experience adjusting geometry magnets in FW900s. The service manual only has about 3 lines and 1 diagram about magnets. I'm probably gonna wait for the RS232 cable to come in and see if WinDAS can fix it via software, but I gather WinDAS can't affect geometry at all right?
Good information, thanks!
Oh, and nice post Joe!
I'm a FW900 owner since two days. So far, I'm quite confident with the monitor. The technical condition is quite good, no serious color or geometry errors. Text is a bit blurry, I will try MightyJoe's guide in the next few days
But there's a problem that can be quite annoying sometimes. The antireflective coat is damaged in the lower middle of the screen which is visible on bright backgrounds.
I've taken a picture:
From what I've read so far, it is impossible to repair the coat. It is a good idea to remove the whole coat?
Or perhaps someone owns a defective unit and could sell the front glass?
thanks in advance
Just a FYI for anyone considering this monitor...
I have had mine for over several months now and have used it as my main PC monitor and for Xbox 360. It has worked flawless and I cannot say enough about it. Im moving up to a 42" 1080p Westinghouse LCD soon for the 360 and PS3 but I will still be using this for daily work. Great monitor and very well put together!
My beloved FW900 may be dead
The power indicator light just flashes orange, and the screen is blank. How much would repair for this cost? What could be wrong?
I have a problem with neutral greys on this monitor that I see when I run something like the nokia monitor test and decide to tweak it. Though I have windas, I have no idea how to do the white balance procedure even though I have a colorimeter (I have no way to get readings with a spyder2express) to do it. Does anyone here know of any tricks I can do with expert rgb tweaks to get rid of this purple tinge I have to the greys.
Purple is Red and Blue, so I would go into your display driver options, look for the color curves box and pull the Red and Blue curves down and to the right a bit until you get a neutral gray. Alternately (and better), find a manufacturer's ICC profile and assign it to your display, then run a software calibration program on it (like Adobe Gamma)
According to this post parts are still available.
Yeah, that's why some people don't like 9300K temperature color.. because it makes the greys too blue or purplish...
IMHO, I think that my colors are just as perfect as it can be on my monitor.. the settings in the monitor control panel (go to Expert tab under Color settings, then customize the 9300K or whichever one) ...
It might vary slightly with each monitor, as the next monitor could have slightly more green-ish greys or more purplish greys.
If you think that the Green is too much, turn G Bias down... and/or turn down Blue Bias if it's still too purple. Everybody has different tastes and different eyes (needless to say, a few are colorblind)! I just hate sRGB---it's too dirty Reddish/yellow!
Note that when I turn the Gain all the way up to 100, it greatly increases the brightness of light colors to the point where it can cause bloom over nearby dark areas on the screen. You might want to turn the contrast down for 2-D applications like browsing the web or viewing desktop, but turn it up to like 85 or 90 when playing games! It DOES make the games look that much better. Now it's just as bright and vibrant as the newest LCD's out there. Movies still look better on this CRT than I have ever seen on an LCD (and I also have an extremely bright Dell 2405FPW 24" LCD).
Just make sure that you use a screensaver with CRT's, especially if you increase the contrast/brightness (GAINS, etc..) to the near maximum.
Yep, UrielDagda and I have compared notes on this before. I too have the blurring/popping issue and we both came to the same conclusion: Leave it on and make sure the Windows screen saver doesn't actually power off the monitor. As long as I do this, I no longer have the problem. But if I turn it off and let it cool down, my monitor will freak out intermittently for the next 24-48 hours.
I too have also noticed that my G2 voltage may need an adjustment via Windas again. So, leaving the darn thing on 24/7 does indeed seem to accelerate the "over brightness" issue. Good thing we have Windas to fix it. I wonder if it'll ever get so bad that even Windas can't save me though.
P.S. I'm 3 pages away from being fully caught up in this thread again! I'm almost giddy! And there have been a lot of cool new developments just recently! Focus pots guide. . . Deetox working on a Windas guide with dynamic convergence (looks like what I did for my Sony 53" RPTV!), etc. Good stuff!
Both of my FW900s have some flickeriness at 1920x1200 @ 85Hz. In both cases, "adding" 95Hz as a refresh rate for 1920x1200 in the NVIDIA "Custom Resolutions" control panel, and then running at that (95) solves the problem. I'd never considered going "down" in refresh rate to try to solve flickering/image stability. Sounds sorta counter-intuitive to me.
BTW, both my monitors also have that "hooking right" in the upper-right corner of the screen as well. And, having just read 50 pages of this thread to get all caught up, I can say we're definitely not alone.
If you're running an NVIDIA card, you don't need the monitor driver or any special program to lock refresh rates. Indeed, you don't even need to lock refresh rates at all even with the built-in NVIDIA utility for doing so.
Since all the widescreen resolutions aren't standard or included in the NVIDIA driver, you need to add them.
Under "Screen Resolutions & Refresh Rates", click "Add" and add the following:
1280x800 @ 130Hz
1360x850 @ 125Hz
1440x900 @ 120Hz
1520x950 @ 115Hz
1600x1000 @ 110Hz
1680x1050 @ 105Hz
1760x1100 @ 100Hz
1840x1150 @ 95Hz
1920x1200 @ 95Hz (this one already exists by default, just add the higher refresh rate)
So, because all of those (except the last one - 1920x1200) didn't yet exist before you added them, the only refresh rate that Windows "knows" for those resolutions will be the on you gave it. Pretty much all (modern) games will detect all those resolutions, and when they change to them, they'll use those assigned refresh rates.
The only complicated one is 1920x1200. Because it pre-existed, a game will run this at 60Hz by default (the lowest/safe one). You can work around this one annoyance however by first switching to 1920x1200 and manually setting the refresh to 95Hz. If you launch a game that is set to 1920x1200 as its in-game resolution while running your desktop at that resolution, it will use the refresh rate that you were using for your desktop (which, as above, should be already at 95Hz before launching the game).
This is the best way I've found to manage refresh rates and resolutions so far. Except for games set to 1920x1200, it's hassle-free. And even in that case, it's easy to work around that one instance.
Edit: You may (probably?) need to remove the FW900 driver for this technique to work! Just revert your monitor back to the "Default Monitor" driver.
Great info I'm going to give it a shot on my next day off , when comparing the sharpness on my Sony G520P I notice my FW900 has a slightly less focused look to it (really only noticeable with text) so I'm pretty sure ill benefit from this adjustment, Thanks
Nice, 95Hz helps a lot, the picture is solid now.
I wonder what was making the picture jump and flicker at 85Hz? If the monitor is working properly it should give a solid picture at 1920x1200@85Hz right?
I found a way to get a solid picture at 85Hz, but it may be only temporary fix. I noticed the picture jumps around the worst when its stretched to fill the full screen. I held down the reset button for 3 seconds to get default geometry and color. Then I set the vertical and horizontal stretch both to 0. I had the smallest possible picture area so I guess the electron gun was firing narrowly focused without any up scaling applied?
Anyway, then I raised the contrast to 90 and the brightness to 80 to get rid of the green-tinge to grays like the first post says, then I hit `Image Restore`. After the Image Restore the edges of the picture were very solid at 85Hz, where the picture edges were jumping around before. I did the Image Restore a bunch of times before with properly scaled geometry to fill the screen and it had no effect on the jumpy picture edges.
I don't know exactly why doing an Image Restore with 0 vertical and 0 horizontal scaling would make the picture more solid, but it seems to have worked. 90Hz is great and had a solid not-jumpy picture even before the Image Restore.
The last problem I can see is at 85Hz and 90Hz there are these fine horizontal lines that are most visible in the bottom corners of the picture, they seem to be connected to whatever magnet gets adjusted when you mess with the landing controls. I'm hoping WinDAS may have a correction for these fine horizontal lines in the corners. I'm still not sure, but these fine horizontal lines in the picture are called retrace lines?
I was just about to try it too tonight. But I was adjusting brightness (etc.) again tonight and by the time I got done, I was already pretty happy with how sharp things are. Text could probably be a bit more defined. . . but I don't want to mess with a good thing.
Still, it's nice to know we have the option!
Surprisingly, I didn't have to Windas the G2 setting again. Just adjusted Brightness ad Contrast in the front-end. It might have benefited a bit from another G2 tweak. But I want to reserve that for when it's absolutely necessary since it may be necessary more often for my unit (cuz it's on 24/7).
Question: Has anyone else noticed that green is a bit more unfocused than the other colors? It's readily apparent in the Nokia Monitor Test program while in the "focus" test. Not a big deal. . . just curious.
I wonder what precisely causes the brightness issue.. I haven't really seen anything definitive said about that.. If it is the monitor overcompensating for some reason, maybe there is a setting somewhere in WinDAS that can affect it...
Also I am testing out a theory that the darker the monitor is set, the faster it gets brighter. When I had the problem get so bad that I was a 0 brightness, it seemed that it got to a certain point and stopped getting any brighter. I also set it really dark one night last week and it seemed to get +2 brightness overnight.
I just know that set at the darkness I keep it now, my G2 will reach zero within 2 years. I would hope that perhaps there might be a better solution by then.. I am not too keen on being forced into LCD technology. I am hoping this thing lasts until something like SED takes off and gets a generation or two under it's belt!
I see no difference in clarity when viewing the green focus pattern vs. the other colors. currently running at 1600x1024 @ 85hz.
Sorry, should have mentioned resolution. I don't see much difference at 1600x1000 either. But at 1920x1200, green does seem to be a bit more out of focus than the others. This would explain why I've always felt green text looks just slightly "off" on my monitor. But, definitely nothing worth complaining about (and I consider myself a perfectionist about these types of things).
I'm curious, with so much helpful information why doesn't this thread have a sticky?
Edit: Also, with the new guides or information on "focus" problems, "brightness" issues, using Windas kits, how quality of household electrical wiring can have effects on the monitor or even the "popping/blurrying" issue (which I never heard of until the last few pages in this thread) could all that stuff be posted on the first page of collected info that mathesar has?
Would have been really nice to know about some this stuff beforehand...
It takes a lot of time to sift through 100+ pages of rambling posts to sperate the wheat from the chaffe. I originally did so when this thread was only 30 pages long or so (I think).
I bought a used CPD-G520 about 7 months ago. I hooked it up and it worked perfectly for about 3 or 4 months. After about 4 months, I noticed it would become blurry and stay like that for about 5 to 10 minutes and then it would "pop" into focus. Almost as if it had a power surge. I replaced the power cord and the monitor cable and even switched inputs but nothing changed. Is there any way to fix this?
Well i have an issue simillar to yours but no way as bad. The G520 which i have when i turn it on it becomes very bright, But after 10 min blacks are real black. And yes the text does seem out of focus for like 2-3 min but then becomes normal. I still would not change this monitor out for any LCD on the market. I bought mine from accurate it services new overstock.
Condition is outstanding.
oh i forgot to add. I run 1280x1024 at 85hertz on the desktop and text is as sharp as an LCD. Going to 1600x1200 on the desktop is kinda small and is slightly not as focused as an LCD. However in games 1600x1024 and above i believe 2048x1024 is sharp and outstanding. This monitor will kick any LCDs but on the market. I will not move to an LCD until LCDs have at least 10000:1 or 15000:1 contrast ratio with a size of 21-24inchs and have less then 5ms response time. Until this happens you will keep on seeing people constantly bringing back LCDs left and right due to black levels, color reproduction or response times and banding. The only reason i see myself getting a LCD in the future is HDMI. Do yourself a favor and just go buy a new overstock G520 or diamondtron tube and keep it for another 1-2 years. Because everything that is out now sucks hardcore.
I've read a lot more and it seems the lines I'm seeing on this monitor are raster lines not rescan lines.
I can see the grid of fine horizontal lines that the picture is being projected onto, the refresh rate is visible over the grid to make the fine lines seem as if they are scrolling upwards. Its quite visible on a white background, less visible on a black background. Running 1920x1200@95Hz.
I noticed it more once I used the focus pots to sharpen up the picture, as the picture gets sharper with clearer text etc, then the raster lines become more visibile, most noticable on the bottom parts of the screen.
If I use the focus pots to defocus the picture enough then the raster lines become harder to see but the picture becomes way too blurry.
I read that messing with the contrast, ie. the white-intensity of the electron gun, can make these raster lines blend in a bit more, but I haven't seen much of a change with the contrast all the way down or all the way up.
Messing with the OSD convergence has a slight effect but then it throws the colors out of alignment on convergence test patterns, like the one that comes with the Nokia test or the ones in the DisplayMate program.
There are atleast 5-6 more pots and knobs near the tube itself, but the service manual linked in the first post hardly describes them let alone explain them. I'm wondering if anyone knows which physical pots/knobs can minimize the effect of visible raster lines on white backgrounds. Does WinDAS have an adjustment to blend visible raster lines?
I still haven't found an explanation for what exactly causes raster lines to be visible, the most I've read is that its connected to the focus, but I'm still not clear about what pots inside the monitor are misaligned or which components might be faulty to actually cause raster lines to become visible.
My only other clue about what might be wrong with this unit is that the picture edges are slightly jumpy, not solid, at various resolutions including 1920x1200@85Hz which I understand is the Sony-recommended resolution. I read the proper term for a jumping picture on a crt is called "jitter" but I still haven't been able to to find an explanation for why jitter happens. I'm running a new PCIe videocard and the VGA cable is also new, I don't think the jitter is being caused by EM interference or a noisy video signal.
So i got this Ecs Cable from austrailia and i read some guide on Windas posted here http://www.geocities.com/gregua/windas/ but 1 thing im not clear on...
How does the cable connect to the monitor if at all?
I mean everything i have read and there is not 1 comment so far on what this cable connects too!!
can someone show me a picture or something?
Thanks in advance
From the back on the right hand side of the monitor is a cover. Take the cover off and you should see 4 pins to connect your adapter to.
Yea to stay with CRT until SED comes out, since SED is just like flat CRT. but I'm afraid of SED prices for probably 2 years..
Only very top quality LCDs are any good and they still have inherent blacklevel problem. Its bad design for display, color mesh ontop of backlight, whatever. SED makes picture using direct electron illumination of phosphor color, so you get the good CRT colors and contrast but in flat form with 1ms response time, and with no chance of geometry problems because of the new electron technology. So it was one big gun that project electrons into a tube with phosphor colors at the end, now its a flat plate of electron emitters directly illuminating a flat plate of phosphor colors. SED looks like good technology but they should make it cheaper.
Worsin heres a picture of the connector, its on the back of the monitor, you can flip the little plastic cover and you will see it.
Is that on a G520?
thats fw900 with the plastic casing off of it.
Most likely youre gonna have to take the case off. Its a huge pain in the ass to get the cable on with the case on. Seriously big.
Thanks for the sticky whoever added it!
I realize that someone with extenuating physical and mental circumstances had some trouble getting the cable onto the connector. . . but it's definitely not true that it's that difficult for everyone.
Personally, I'm able to do it in seconds without removing the casing. I just grip the connector by its wires and lay it in there until it's against the pins properly. . . then shove it on the rest of the way with my index finger.
I would definitely not recommend people remove the case simply to get this cable on there. Use a screwdriver to press it on. . . tweezers, etc.
Well depending on the cable you get it definitely is. The one i have has a connector on each individual wire and is a huge pain in the ass to get on correctly, and trust me i tried all kinds of crap to get them on all at once. Additionally, the wires had to be reversed for it to work correctly (either pcb or wires were labelled wrong, forget which). If you have a one piece connector that is configured properly it probably can be done relatively easily, but if its the individual wire thing i recommend taking the casing off. It only takes like 5 seconds to take it off if you know how (you need a long skinny phillips-head screw driver as well if memory serves).
All true. Good points. Though, I wonder if you could tape all the pin connectors together to make a connector much like the one I've got (looks like a 4-pin fan connector). I used to do that with USB connectors that came with each pin seperate before I connected them to the motherboard.
Thats what i meant by trying all kinds of crap . I tried taping all four to a thin knife but still couldnt get it to go on. Plus the whole thing of troubleshooting if the wires are out of order would be an even bigger pain in the ass if you have individual wires and need to retape each time. If you KNOW that you have the right configuration, then its probably worth trying to get it plugged in with the case on, though.
Do i keep the regular monitor cable plugged into it also? or do i have to disconnect the monitor cable from the computer?
I just dont want to short something out or make a mistake with this bad boy!!!
Don't laugh at me :
I got my VGA-to-BNC cable from monoprice last week and hooked up the secondary input on this to my 333mhz Celeron Win98/DOS box. For some reason 1024x768 via my Voodoo3 card looked absolutely beautiful. I may try stepping down my resolution a bit from 1920x1200. For some reason the picture just looked way crisper at 1024x768.
Yes, that's how it is with CRT's... this GDM-FW900 is so good that 1024x768 looks amazingly crisp due to the low dot pitch, near-perfect geometry and colors, solid whites and blacks with no raster lines like the cheaper CRT's, etc...
Also, keep in mind that the horizontal refresh rate (KHz) is greatly lessened unless you turn up the vertical refresh rate (Hz) to the monitor's maximum. When the screen is being drawn at such a high KHz rate, which is required for high resolutions even it is only 85 Hz or less (as long as the horizontal is near or at ~120 KHz), it does make things look a little more blurry due to less precision at high speeds. That's my theory or hypothesis after closely studying all the different refresh rates, aspect ratios, contrast/brightness levels, resolutions, etc..