24" Widescreen CRT (FW900) From Ebay arrived,Comments.

ranch2

n00b
Joined
Mar 26, 2019
Messages
5
My FW900 has started doing something that’s like “breathing”, every second or so the picture will become slightly blurry and move down a few pixels, then become clear and move back up. What is this a symptom of? It only happens at certain resolutions it seems.
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,022
My FW900 has started doing something that’s like “breathing”, every second or so the picture will become slightly blurry and move down a few pixels, then become clear and move back up. What is this a symptom of? It only happens at certain resolutions it seems.
Are you using an external DAC?
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,022
Yes, Sunix DPU3000.
That can sometimes get a jittery or wobbly picture, especially at 75hz.

Also, it can't really display resolutions between 2048x1536 and 2304x1728, for some reason. Like, those two resolutions are fine, but resolutions in between them can screw up and have the left and right margins switched.

Really, Sunix is the holdover until the HD Fury 5, *crosses fingers
 

ranch2

n00b
Joined
Mar 26, 2019
Messages
5
That can sometimes get a jittery or wobbly picture, especially at 75hz.

Also, it can't really display resolutions between 2048x1536 and 2304x1728, for some reason. Like, those two resolutions are fine, but resolutions in between them can screw up and have the left and right margins switched.

Really, Sunix is the holdover until the HD Fury 5, *crosses fingers
That’s interesting. I remember reading that people have had problems using refresh rates that aren’t even numbers so I only use even numbers. I was trying 1600x1200 at 90hz on the FW900 today and noticed it. I’ve also noticed this same jittery picture at 1440x1080 at 120hz on the Diamondtron 2070SB monitor. It makes sense because when using the DAC on the GTX980ti instead of the Sunix, I don’t experience these problems. Thanks for letting me know.
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,022
That’s interesting. I remember reading that people have had problems using refresh rates that aren’t even numbers so I only use even numbers. I was trying 1600x1200 at 90hz on the FW900 today and noticed it. I’ve also noticed this same jittery picture at 1440x1080 at 120hz on the Diamondtron 2070SB monitor. It makes sense because when using the DAC on the GTX980ti instead of the Sunix, I don’t experience these problems. Thanks for letting me know.
It's really only a rule of thumb. I play Apex Legends at 2304x1728 @ 75hz and looks fine. But 1920x1440 @ 75 would jitter quite a bit.
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
61
After getting a high-end CRT Monitor I can confirm the delock 87685 is capable of 1920x1440 @92hz or 2304x1728 @70hz. Same as sunix
My Sunix is a mess above 1920x1440. Are you sure the Delock is stable at those two resolutions? No occasional loss of signal and monitor going to standby, no image jittering (trembling) and shifting (right side goes to the left side of the screen)?
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,022
My Sunix is a mess above 1920x1440. Are you sure the Delock is stable at those two resolutions? No occasional loss of signal and monitor going to standby, no image jittering (trembling) and shifting (right side goes to the left side of the screen)?
The Sunix doesn't do well in a small range between 2048x1536 and 2304x1728. Like if you were to create a resolution of, say 2176x1632, the Sunix could screw up and swap right and left margins of the image. But hit 2304x1728 or higher, and it gets stable, likewise with 2048x1536 and lower.

Also, the resolutions he mentioned were close to the 140kHz limit of his monitor. Your monitor might not be able to scan that fast. It may have a limit below 130kHz like the FW900.
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
61
The Sunix doesn't do well in a small range between 2048x1536 and 2304x1728. Like if you were to create a resolution of, say 2176x1632, the Sunix could screw up and swap right and left margins of the image. But hit 2304x1728 or higher, and it gets stable, likewise with 2048x1536 and lower.

Also, the resolutions he mentioned were close to the 140kHz limit of his monitor. Your monitor might not be able to scan that fast. It may have a limit below 130kHz like the FW900.
On my Dell P1130 (131kHz) and F520 (137kHz) absolutely nothing is stable above 1920x1440 including the resolutions you mentioned.
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,022
On my Dell P1130 (131kHz) and F520 (137kHz) absolutely nothing is stable above 1920x1440 including the resolutions you mentioned.
Yeah, don't know why that would be. Some things to try:

You could try CRU instead of Nvidia CP to create the custom resolution, or vice versa. Try CVT timings in Nvidia, and "CRT Standard Timings" in CRU. Make sure you're supplying power to the Sunix via the microUSB port. Also check your link rate to make sure it is DP 1.2. If you have a shitty cable it might not be running at the full 5.4Gbpsx4 for DP 1.2
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,022
I tried all of that. I posted about this awhile ago with pictures included. Maybe is my particular Sunix splitter.
Actually, I'm having some issues with 2048x1536 now that I've experimented with it a little. Running at 60hz, it takes a second to switch to the picture. Then eventually, the monitor blanks out, and I have to restart my computer. This is literally the only resolution this happens at. I think there is something about the number 2048 or 1536 that is screwing with the Sunix.

But, like I said, 2304x1728@75hz, CRT Standard Timings, works fine for me. As does 2560x1920@60hz and so on. So we are still haven't different experiences with our adapters.

Haven't tried 85hz, though. And I can't just make the custom resolution right now because AMD drivers are limiting me to 350mHz my 5700xt>Sunix combo. I'll have to reprogram my external EDID spoofer when I get a chance, because if AMD reads the resolution off an external EDID, it will let me display it.
 
Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
61
Actually, I'm having some issues with 2048x1536 now that I've experimented with it a little. Running at 60hz, it takes a second to switch to the picture. Then eventually, the monitor blanks out, and I have to restart my computer. This is literally the only resolution this happens at. I think there is something about the number 2048 or 1536 that is screwing with the Sunix.

But, like I said, 2304x1728@75hz, CRT Standard Timings, works fine for me. As does 2560x1920@60hz and so on. So we are still haven't different experiences with our adapters.

Haven't tried 85hz, though. And I can't just make the custom resolution right now because AMD drivers are limiting me to 350mHz my 5700xt>Sunix combo. I'll have to reprogram my external EDID spoofer when I get a chance, because if AMD reads the resolution off an external EDID, it will let me display it.
All refresh rates from 60 to 85 on 2048x1536 DO NOT work properly (jittering, screen displacent and the most frequent, monitor loses sync and goes to standby). Played with increasing and decreasing the resolution by a pixel at a time around 2048x1536, same thing.
Very high resolutions (which are very blurry and never use them) exhibit only jittering and screen displacement but no sync loss.
All in all if you're content with using it up until 1920x1440 (with the very occasional jitter and screen displacement) the Sunix is ok, otherwise for higher resolutions such as 2048x1536 or higher (any 21" Trinitron can handle that) the Sunix is crap.
Anyway I don't use it at all. I am curious about the Delock version though...
 
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,022
Very high resolutions (which are very blurry and never use them) exhibit only jittering and screen displacement but no sync loss.
...
High resolutions like 2560x1920 and 2880x2160 look fine on my Lacie, even through the Sunix. Not perfectly sharp of course, due to the aperture grille, but definitely nice resolutions for 60fps locked games
 

3dfan

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2016
Messages
153
Yes, brightness goes way down on the Acer, but the panel tech is from around 2015. And it doesn't enable at 60 Hz, 85 Hz minimum. The LG didn't have ULMB.
thanks again, then sadly with no doubt, a 2003 CRT tech still had the edge on those modern monitors, with no brightness issues, no dumb ULMB 85hz min lock, etc... and now with things like scanline sync doing similar things as gsync reducing input lag and hiding tearing with vsync off, makes me thing those modern monitor are still not a worth upgrade jet against a CRT such the FW900.

let me suggest you to play fzero GX at 60fps and with emulator at its default 100% speed, playing this at higher speed will allow you to play the game at higher framerate, but at the expense of the game being too fast which was not designet to run at , (maybe because of this you felt the game faster and harder) set the CRT monitor to 60hz with scanline sync value -1 (vertical sync off from control panel from your GPU for this game emulator) and you will enjoy a nicer quality game experience i doubt you will be able to on those modern monitors.

dont know how old is your computer, but i tested this on a old PC with i7 4770k cpu, geforce GTX 760 (1920 x 1200 screen set to widescreen) old midrange card with no issues at all, regardless the scanline sync GPU overhead utilization since fzero GX is not that demanding, wont hurt to try on your own system.

Has anyone tried that out yet? Only useful right now for the RTX cards and maybe a handful of others that have USB-C
WARNING!, not all RTX cards have the USB type C port, nvidia seems to have removed it on their own "RTX super" products graphics boards, checking at the specs here: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/20-series/ none of the "RTX super" series list USB type C.

other partners like asus seems to include it in few of theirs "RTX super" models like this though:
https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/ROG-STRIX-RTX2070S-A8G-GAMING/specifications/
so users getting RTX cards with USB type C in mind, should carefully check partners about that support.
 
Joined
Oct 4, 2019
Messages
6
From your link:

Note: The OEM version of i1 Display Pro is exactly the same hardware & firmware as the more expensive i1 Display Pro PLUS retail version, with exactly the same measurement capabilities.

In other words, it looks like the OEM has same measurement capabilities as the Pro PLUS, including the wider range. Also see this thread

There is something that the Pro Plus advertises called "black current subtraction technology", which is aimed at low luminance displays, but it's unclear if this is a hardware upgrade, a firmware upgrade, or a software feature of the bundled i1 profiler software.

Industry insiders are claiming that the OEM rev B (which you can buy online, but not retail) is identical to the Pro Plus, which is available retail, so it's unlikely that there is a hardware upgrade.

The disadvantage of Pro Plus is that it isn't as widely supported. Leading software products, such as CalMAN, will not work with the retail Pro Plus, if I'm not mistaken, and according to Graeme (creator of argyllCMS), it's unclear whether his software will work with it at this point, although I have confidence he'll add support for it eventually.


Here's an excerpt of an email I recently sent someone (was it you, by any chance?)
...
Thank you very much for your reply, covering the basics isn't quite as simple among specialists : ) That email wasn't addressed to me btw, but feel free to forward it anyway ; )
I look forward digging into this stuff, and plan to fully calibrate the monitor (by the end of the year probably).

Another silly question: do you have to calibrate the FW900 for every resolution and refresh rate (you intend to use), or do only some parts of the process transfer (i.e. the geometry)?


BTW: The OEM rev B version isn't as easy to come by; I inquired a specialised retailer about availability and the specs as well. I'll let you know *should* they have more detailed info.
 

spacediver

2[H]4U
Joined
Mar 14, 2013
Messages
2,604
You're welcome!

Another silly question: do you have to calibrate the FW900 for every resolution and refresh rate (you intend to use), or do only some parts of the process transfer (i.e. the geometry)?
If you're doing geometry adjustments, there are some resolutions/refresh rates that WinDAS asks you to run while going through the process. For the white point balance adjustment, it's all done in prime mode (1920x1200 @ 85 hz) (and the white point balance adjustment will apply to all possible resolutions).


BTW: The OEM rev B version isn't as easy to come by; I inquired a specialised retailer about availability and the specs as well. I'll let you know *should* they have more detailed info.
If you can't find it on ebay/amazon/etc., there are some resellers, such as the one you linked to earlier. Here's one (which has some detailed info about the different versions of the i1 display pro). You might be able to order one off x-rite, but not sure. Also, might be worth posting in the display calibration forum on avsforums.
 

Derupter

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
190
WARNING!, not all RTX cards have the USB type C port, nvidia seems to have removed it on their own "RTX super" products graphics boards, checking at the specs here: https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/20-series/ none of the "RTX super" series list USB type C.

other partners like asus seems to include it in few of theirs "RTX super" models like this though:
https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/ROG-STRIX-RTX2070S-A8G-GAMING/specifications/
so users getting RTX cards with USB type C in mind, should carefully check partners about that support.
I don't know why they don't list the USB-C output but actually all Nvidia RTX reference cards (Super or not) have it, the controller is inside the GPU.
From what i have seen most of the custom RTX 2070-2080 have the USB-C connector while most of the custom RTX 2060 do not.
Anyway with cards like Sunix UPD2018 or Delock 89582 we can connect any graphic card with a displayport output to USB-C adapters.
 

marvin5881

n00b
Joined
Apr 8, 2018
Messages
12
I actually have noticed a lot of screen jittering with my delock 87685, this usually happens and 1920x1440 @85hz and above. I can trigger it fast by switching resolutions a bunch of times, but it also occurs when using my monitor for over an hour or so (But some days it works perfectly fine). Can't really tell if it's the monitor or the adapter though, I guess I can see next time by pulling up the OSD when it happens.
 

3dfan

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2016
Messages
153
you are right Derupter , watching some youtube unboxing videos of the RTX super reference have USB type C indeed

but also for some partners, for example, according to this giygabyte site, this RTX 2070 super version does not have USB type C https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N207SWF3OC-8GD/sp#sp, they only list DisplayPort 1.4 *3 HDMI 2.0b *1 ports and in "key feaetures" where you see the card images, there is no USB type C is as well...but in this video ot that same product it does have it:


so what the hell?

i have contacted nvidia via chat, and they confirmed their USB type C is present on their RTX super products, but the chat attender did not know why that missinformation, sound like a nvidia marketing mistake but also weird the same happening with others like gigabyte as well
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 23, 2013
Messages
1,022
I actually have noticed a lot of screen jittering with my delock 87685...
.... Can't really tell if it's the monitor or the adapter though....
It's definitely the adapter. It's a bug in the Synaptics VM2322 chip

But word on the street is HD Fury 5 is still in development. Maybe HDMI 2.0, maybe HDMI 2.1?!?

hdfury 5.jpg


After 5 years, I'm trying not to get my hopes up anymore, but maybe they're taking a long time because they want to get it right?
 

Derupter

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
190
you are right Derupter , watching some youtube unboxing videos of the RTX super reference have USB type C indeed

but also for some partners, for example, according to this giygabyte site, this RTX 2070 super version does not have USB type C https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N207SWF3OC-8GD/sp#sp, they only list DisplayPort 1.4 *3 HDMI 2.0b *1 ports and in "key feaetures" where you see the card images, there is no USB type C is as well...but in this video ot that same product it does have it:


so what the hell?

i have contacted nvidia via chat, and they confirmed their USB type C is present on their RTX super products, but the chat attender did not know why that missinformation, sound like a nvidia marketing mistake but also weird the same happening with others like gigabyte as well
It is important to check the specific model code of any card because with their names it's a mess.
Example with Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super:

GV-N207SAORUS-8GC with USB-C
GV-N207SGAMINGOC WHITE-8GD no
GV-N207SGAMINGOC WHITE-8GC yes
GV-N207SGAMING OC-8GD no
GV-N207SGAMING OC-8GC yes
GV-N207SWF3OC-8GD no
GV-N207SWF3OC-8GC yes
GV-N207SWF3-8GC yes

Well at least here all the card with USB-C end with GC, with motherboards the mess is even worse.
The card you linked is the WINDFORCE OC 3X 8G without USB-C, but the WINDFORCE OC 8G has it.
There are 3 fans for both models so that 3X is for ?
In that video there are different models presented and it's easy to make mistakes, it's better to check name and model code before buy a card.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 3dfan
like this

3dfan

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jun 2, 2016
Messages
153
thanks again Derupter, definitelly better to do what you suggest, nvidia marketing department is definitely a mess, and now they sent me an email confirming that USB-C on their RTX super is supported, but also confirming USB C NOT being supported on their regular RTX 2070 non super products, and at the moment of writing this , their site list exactly the opposite :hungover:


marvin5881,

why dont you try powering your splitter the way some people have done as mentioned here? https://hardforum.com/threads/24-wi...ived-comments.952788/page-413#post-1044215804 there are many people in that group using the sunix and they dont seem to have as much issues as people report here but well, who knows how sincere they are being?? ,,it may help making your adapter more stable or maybe not, wont hurt to try.

i have a sunix dpu3000 spiltter but with just with a week of testing with it some months ago with GTX 760 DP( RTX cards pricing / dollar currency in my country have currently skyrocketed :cry:). and in my limited test, i remember having the lost signal stability issue frecuently using the default USB power cable that came with the spitter, i orderer another cable in the following link, in case the sunix would not come with it and when i started to use the ordered cable to power the adapter which really have a braided and physical better quality appearance than the cheap coming with the adapter, i did not have any lost signal stability issues anymore:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Double-Braided-Nylon-Micro/dp/B074VM7J5Z?th=1

maybe was a coincidence, maybe not, since the cable has a cheap price you may try it if you want



also i used this mini DP to DP cable since my sunix did not come with that cable:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics...-XHEi6gx-HXNPrrc9dzjvvYWHmJOjtx0FdPHO3z48izTA
 

spacediver

2[H]4U
Joined
Mar 14, 2013
Messages
2,604
The chipset on my adapter is a Silicon labs CP2102 and it works fine as well. :)
I'm trying to help someone out with their WinDAS calibration, and he's having issues with windas slowing down to a crawl at some point during the WPB adjustment, and then producing errors. We suspect it may be a USB-TTL cable issue. Can you provide a link to the particular cable you're using?

(btw, I got windas to work in windows 10 just fine).
 

Strat_84

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Messages
398
I'm trying to help someone out with their WinDAS calibration, and he's having issues with windas slowing down to a crawl at some point during the WPB adjustment, and then producing errors. We suspect it may be a USB-TTL cable issue. Can you provide a link to the particular cable you're using?

(btw, I got windas to work in windows 10 just fine).
Here it is. Fortunately it's still sold 3 years after I bought it. ;)

https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00AFRXKFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Drivers can be found here:
https://www.silabs.com/products/development-tools/software/usb-to-uart-bridge-vcp-drivers
 

spacediver

2[H]4U
Joined
Mar 14, 2013
Messages
2,604
Agreed. I believe there are other models where you can find out that info using the OSD. This was discussed in this thread within the last month I believe.
 

Yuriy83

n00b
Joined
Oct 19, 2019
Messages
24
Yep, F520 does that. You need to hold OK button (not Menu button, it initializes some sort of procedure showing bright white screen) for a few seconds while no active input is present, in case anyone is curious.

It seems like F520 has more advanced electronics by the way: it warms up much faster, doesn't click when resolution is changed and has different menu layout. Is that so?
 

spacediver

2[H]4U
Joined
Mar 14, 2013
Messages
2,604
I believe the F520 is definitely newer than FW900, so wouldn't surprise me if it has more advanced electronics and a more advanced electron optics too.
 

jbltecnicspro

Supreme [H]ardness
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
5,804
Yep, F520 does that. You need to hold OK button (not Menu button, it initializes some sort of procedure showing bright white screen) for a few seconds while no active input is present, in case anyone is curious.

It seems like F520 has more advanced electronics by the way: it warms up much faster, doesn't click when resolution is changed and has different menu layout. Is that so?
Yes. F520 and Artisan both don't click when you change resolutions. Not sure if this is a sign of them being more advanced or not, but that's how they behave.
 

spacediver

2[H]4U
Joined
Mar 14, 2013
Messages
2,604
Just did another dynamic convergence adjustment. Still haven't mastered it, but learned what all four controls do.

HAMP adjusts the separation of the blue and red vertical lines
HMC adjusts how well centered the blue and red vertical lines are with respect to the green line.

VAMP and VMC do the same but with horizontal lines.

So none of these controls affect the position of the green lines. And you should only use the white crosshatch pattern when making these adjustments, especially the HMC and VMC adjustments.

Also, very handy to use pgup and pgdown to control the sliders (and then up and down arrow if you want to fine tune).
 

Strat_84

Limp Gawd
Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Messages
398
Interesting tip with the keyboard keys, I didn't know it. (y)

I prefer to use a magenta crosshair for blue/red convergence, and then a cyan or yellow crosshair to adjust convergence with the green though. Using a white crosshair during the entire process isn't accurate enough in my opinion.
 

Yuriy83

n00b
Joined
Oct 19, 2019
Messages
24
Also, very handy to use pgup and pgdown to control the sliders (and then up and down arrow if you want to fine tune).
Thanks for the tip, using mouse while looking through a magnifying glass is tedious. I wish I knew it a couple days ago when I did dynamic convergence on mine )
 
Top