I would wait to see how it actually performs but otherwise I might. I have gotten used to the 48" but it's still a large screen and the 42" might be a better sweet spot and would also be easier to pair with a side monitor. In my current setup I have to put my Genelec speakers on the very edge of my desk to get them next to the screen rather than in front of it.
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LG 48CX
- Thread starter gan7114
- Start date
I am going to switch to the 42" for sure as long as it's at parity with the CX/C1 48" and up models spec/feature wise. I still think 48" is too big both in physical size and pixel density. Playing city builders or ARPG's with UI elements you have to constantly reference at the corners is tiresome. The pixel density increase is also welcome.
- Joined
- May 5, 2006
- Messages
- 5,781
Pixel density as is perceived by your eyes is relative to viewing distance. Even with a 42" OLED you'd have to sit pretty far away to be at a proper viewing distance.
You have to sit to where the 20/20 vision threshold starts at 60PPD or beyond on any screen or you will have more jumbo pixels and subpixels. People try to use different kinds of cleartype alternatives and more aggressive AA in games (with a performance hit) but it won't ever be as good as sitting at an appropriate distance. I suspect a lot of people aren't sitting far enough away which exacerbates text fringing and graphics/pixel aliasing as well as pushing the HUD elements far into the periphery.
For the 48" 4k CX, the 60PPD ~ 20/20 vision threshold starts at 33.5" .. and starts at 1.5' away for 27" 4k. At those two distances the screens will look the same (60 PPD).
If you sit ~48" away from a 48" 4k screen you get into the 20/15 range though and require very little AA. You can even get away w/o AA for the most part if you wanted to.
==========================================
48" 4k at 33" or less viewing distance:
59.3 ppd is below 20/20 vision; most everyone can see individual pixels. You likely need strong anti-aliasing to hide artifacts.
= jumbo pixels to your eyes, bad text fringing
-------------------------------
48" 4k at 33.5" viewing distance:
60 ppd is above the 20/20 vision threshold of 60 ppd, but below the average vision of ~20/15. You likely need moderate anti-aliasing.
= moderate aliasing that can be more or less compensated for with AA (usually at the cost of some frame rate loss) and sub-sampling on text
-----------------------------------
48" 4k at 47"+ viewing distance:
Anti-aliasing is only necessary in medium- and high-contrast areas.
----------------------------------
I typically sit 38" to 48" away. If I find I'm not looking at my HUD enough to my detriment in some games I'll kick back to near 48"
When you sit around the same distance away as the monitor's diagonal measurement you are making a more or less equilateral triangle out of your viewing angle and the screen width. Any closer it's a squashed fat triangle (or pyramid) with a more extreme angle to view the corners which can affect how easily you can view your HUD elements.
==========================================
Viewing distances in regard to a 43" 4k come out to:
-- Less than 30" viewing distance = below 20/20 vision; most everyone can see individual pixels. You likely need strong anti-aliasing to hide artifacts.
= jumbo pixels to your eyes, bad text fringing
-- 30" + viewing distance = 60 ppd is above the 20/20 vision threshold of 60 ppd, but below the average vision of ~20/15. You likely need moderate anti-aliasing
= moderate aliasing that can be more or less compensated for with AA (usually at the cost of some frame rate loss) and sub-sampling on text
-- 42"+ viewing distance = 80 ppd is moderate, slightly above the average visual acuity; few can see individual pixels. Anti-aliasing is only necessary in medium- and high-contrast areas.
==================================
For a 42" 4k the viewing distances are:
--- ~ 29" or less viewing distance = lower than 60 PPD, below 20/20 vision; most everyone can see individual pixels. You likely need strong anti-aliasing to hide artifacts.
= jumbo pixels to your eyes, aliased graphics, bad text fringing
--- Over 29" viewing distance = above the 20/20 vision threshold of 60 ppd, but below the average vision of ~20/15. You likely need moderate anti-aliasing.
--- ~ 41" viewing distance = 80 PPD which is is moderate, slightly above the average visual acuity; few can see individual pixels. Anti-aliasing only necessary in medium- and high-contrast areas.
==================================
27" 4k :
18" and less = less than 60PPD, below 20/20 vision threshold, bad graphics aliasing and text fringing
19"+ = 60PPD+ , above the 20/20 vision threshold, need moderate AA, text subsampling
26.5"+ = 80PPD+ ,above the 20/15 visual acuity threshold, few can see individual pixels, AA only necessary in medium and high contrast areas.
You have to sit to where the 20/20 vision threshold starts at 60PPD or beyond on any screen or you will have more jumbo pixels and subpixels. People try to use different kinds of cleartype alternatives and more aggressive AA in games (with a performance hit) but it won't ever be as good as sitting at an appropriate distance. I suspect a lot of people aren't sitting far enough away which exacerbates text fringing and graphics/pixel aliasing as well as pushing the HUD elements far into the periphery.
For the 48" 4k CX, the 60PPD ~ 20/20 vision threshold starts at 33.5" .. and starts at 1.5' away for 27" 4k. At those two distances the screens will look the same (60 PPD).
If you sit ~48" away from a 48" 4k screen you get into the 20/15 range though and require very little AA. You can even get away w/o AA for the most part if you wanted to.
==========================================
48" 4k at 33" or less viewing distance:
59.3 ppd is below 20/20 vision; most everyone can see individual pixels. You likely need strong anti-aliasing to hide artifacts.
= jumbo pixels to your eyes, bad text fringing
-------------------------------
48" 4k at 33.5" viewing distance:
60 ppd is above the 20/20 vision threshold of 60 ppd, but below the average vision of ~20/15. You likely need moderate anti-aliasing.
= moderate aliasing that can be more or less compensated for with AA (usually at the cost of some frame rate loss) and sub-sampling on text
-----------------------------------
48" 4k at 47"+ viewing distance:
Anti-aliasing is only necessary in medium- and high-contrast areas.
----------------------------------
I typically sit 38" to 48" away. If I find I'm not looking at my HUD enough to my detriment in some games I'll kick back to near 48"
When you sit around the same distance away as the monitor's diagonal measurement you are making a more or less equilateral triangle out of your viewing angle and the screen width. Any closer it's a squashed fat triangle (or pyramid) with a more extreme angle to view the corners which can affect how easily you can view your HUD elements.
==========================================
Viewing distances in regard to a 43" 4k come out to:
-- Less than 30" viewing distance = below 20/20 vision; most everyone can see individual pixels. You likely need strong anti-aliasing to hide artifacts.
= jumbo pixels to your eyes, bad text fringing
-- 30" + viewing distance = 60 ppd is above the 20/20 vision threshold of 60 ppd, but below the average vision of ~20/15. You likely need moderate anti-aliasing
= moderate aliasing that can be more or less compensated for with AA (usually at the cost of some frame rate loss) and sub-sampling on text
-- 42"+ viewing distance = 80 ppd is moderate, slightly above the average visual acuity; few can see individual pixels. Anti-aliasing is only necessary in medium- and high-contrast areas.
==================================
For a 42" 4k the viewing distances are:
--- ~ 29" or less viewing distance = lower than 60 PPD, below 20/20 vision; most everyone can see individual pixels. You likely need strong anti-aliasing to hide artifacts.
= jumbo pixels to your eyes, aliased graphics, bad text fringing
--- Over 29" viewing distance = above the 20/20 vision threshold of 60 ppd, but below the average vision of ~20/15. You likely need moderate anti-aliasing.
--- ~ 41" viewing distance = 80 PPD which is is moderate, slightly above the average visual acuity; few can see individual pixels. Anti-aliasing only necessary in medium- and high-contrast areas.
==================================
27" 4k :
18" and less = less than 60PPD, below 20/20 vision threshold, bad graphics aliasing and text fringing
19"+ = 60PPD+ , above the 20/20 vision threshold, need moderate AA, text subsampling
26.5"+ = 80PPD+ ,above the 20/15 visual acuity threshold, few can see individual pixels, AA only necessary in medium and high contrast areas.
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 5, 2006
- Messages
- 5,781
My living room vizio M low density FALD VA tv from late 2015 is on the way out, dying, so I am going to replace it by xmas.
As much as I would love a huge OLED in the living room, I don't think the usage scenario is there for it. It can be a brightly lit room at times with a large/picture window, but mostly I can't rely on or put the expectation on other people to not fall asleep with static material on the screen or leave youtube paused forgetting about it, to be religious about using the "turn of the screen" trick when they are afk every single time, and other safe use practices I use on my 48 CX - so I'd always be concerned in the back of my mind.. At my pc, it's just me in control of the usage practices and I also generally don't fall asleep at my pc.
Considering that, I'm probably going to buy the best reasonable FALD VA that compares to OLED which is currently the QN90A Neo "QLED" (75" version). It only has one hdmi 2.1 120hz VRR port but that's enough for one console or one pc so should be good enough if I ever get a PS5 or if I ever decide to run a pc hdmi 2.1 gpu's cable to the big tv someday. I don't think the tv does 24hz content x5 on the 120hz port for movies by default (not certain) .. but if it did I could just use a hdmi 2.1 console for streaming apps or whenever a hdmi 2.1 nvidia shield gets released. You could use the smart tv versions if they worked well enough but notably the ethernet port on the samsung is 10/100 and not gigabit though.. just like the LG OLED's ethernet..
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/qn90a-qled
As much as I would love a huge OLED in the living room, I don't think the usage scenario is there for it. It can be a brightly lit room at times with a large/picture window, but mostly I can't rely on or put the expectation on other people to not fall asleep with static material on the screen or leave youtube paused forgetting about it, to be religious about using the "turn of the screen" trick when they are afk every single time, and other safe use practices I use on my 48 CX - so I'd always be concerned in the back of my mind.. At my pc, it's just me in control of the usage practices and I also generally don't fall asleep at my pc.
Considering that, I'm probably going to buy the best reasonable FALD VA that compares to OLED which is currently the QN90A Neo "QLED" (75" version). It only has one hdmi 2.1 120hz VRR port but that's enough for one console or one pc so should be good enough if I ever get a PS5 or if I ever decide to run a pc hdmi 2.1 gpu's cable to the big tv someday. I don't think the tv does 24hz content x5 on the 120hz port for movies by default (not certain) .. but if it did I could just use a hdmi 2.1 console for streaming apps or whenever a hdmi 2.1 nvidia shield gets released. You could use the smart tv versions if they worked well enough but notably the ethernet port on the samsung is 10/100 and not gigabit though.. just like the LG OLED's ethernet..
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/qn90a-qled
I'd be keeping an eye on pricing for the 48C1 to replace my 55B6 in my office and shopmyexchange seemed to have the best deal at 1199 but then they put the 55C1 on sale for 1199 this week and couldn't pass it up. Oh well, I guess I'll just wait for 8k for a true monitor replacement at this point.
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2004
- Messages
- 19,612
If you get the QN90A, definitely let us know how it compares to the CX. In another thread here, one member said that he bought a C1 and returned it. Some time afterwards, he ended up buying a QN90A and claims that blacks on it were just as black as the C1. I am extremely skeptical of that and you've had way more time with your CX by now, so I'd be very curious to know how the QN90A stacks up against the LG OLED TVs in that regard as well as all other aspects. Not that I am looking to make the switch; I just keep hearing that the newer top-end LCDs are extremely good and I'd like to know if the best of them can indeed match or beat an OLED. I don't doubt at all that some of them are very good, but I've never gotten anywhere close to OLED blacks from an LCD. I also haven't used a high-end LCD since Samsung's 2015 quantum dot flagship, though, and I figure that things may have changed a bit since then.My living room vizio M low density FALD VA tv from late 2015 is on the way out, dying, so I am going to replace it by xmas.
As much as I would love a huge OLED in the living room, I don't think the usage scenario is there for it. It can be a brightly lit room at times with a large/picture window, but mostly I can't rely on or put the expectation on other people to not fall asleep with static material on the screen or leave youtube paused forgetting about it, to be religious about using the "turn of the screen" trick when they are afk every single time, and other safe use practices I use on my 48 CX - so I'd always be concerned in the back of my mind.. At my pc, it's just me in control of the usage practices and I also generally don't fall asleep at my pc.
Considering that, I'm probably going to buy the best reasonable FALD VA that compares to OLED which is currently the QN90A Neo "QLED" (75" version). It only has one hdmi 2.1 120hz VRR port but that's enough for one console or one pc so should be good enough if I ever get a PS5 or if I ever decide to run a pc hdmi 2.1 gpu's cable to the big tv someday. I don't think the tv does 24hz content x5 on the 120hz port for movies by default (not certain) .. but if it did I could just use a hdmi 2.1 console for streaming apps or whenever a hdmi 2.1 nvidia shield gets released. You could use the smart tv versions if they worked well enough but notably the ethernet port on the samsung is 10/100 and not gigabit though.. just like the LG OLED's ethernet..
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/qn90a-qled
I've got a Q90R which is a few models old now, and the blacks are definitely black... as long as there is nothing around it. If you view a dark scene head-on, the blacks look very deep, but if you view it off-angle, those blacks turn decidedly grey. What's worse is that in dark scenes, the picture was very washed out and overly dark. This is obviously not an issue with OLED as each point of brightness is setup exactly as it should be.
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2004
- Messages
- 19,612
I have that same issue with the Sharp AQUOS that's in the bedroom. It is extremely difficult to make out detail in dark scenes. I attributed that to the fact that it's an older panel though; probably from ~2005-2007 or so. Sucks that's still an issue. I'm really looking forward to replacing it with an OLED or some other type of display but the thing just keeps on working. It's been a great set in terms of reliability.
sharknice
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2012
- Messages
- 4,883
My living room vizio M low density FALD VA tv from late 2015 is on the way out, dying, so I am going to replace it by xmas.
As much as I would love a huge OLED in the living room, I don't think the usage scenario is there for it. It can be a brightly lit room at times with a large/picture window, but mostly I can't rely on or put the expectation on other people to not fall asleep with static material on the screen or leave youtube paused forgetting about it, to be religious about using the "turn of the screen" trick when they are afk every single time, and other safe use practices I use on my 48 CX - so I'd always be concerned in the back of my mind.. At my pc, it's just me in control of the usage practices and I also generally don't fall asleep at my pc.
Considering that, I'm probably going to buy the best reasonable FALD VA that compares to OLED which is currently the QN90A Neo "QLED" (75" version). It only has one hdmi 2.1 120hz VRR port but that's enough for one console or one pc so should be good enough if I ever get a PS5 or if I ever decide to run a pc hdmi 2.1 gpu's cable to the big tv someday. I don't think the tv does 24hz content x5 on the 120hz port for movies by default (not certain) .. but if it did I could just use a hdmi 2.1 console for streaming apps or whenever a hdmi 2.1 nvidia shield gets released. You could use the smart tv versions if they worked well enough but notably the ethernet port on the samsung is 10/100 and not gigabit though.. just like the LG OLED's ethernet..
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/qn90a-qled
If the majority of the TV watching is done while the room is brightly lit I wouldn't even bother getting an expensive TV. Just get the cheapest biggest screen you can. Samsung has the best anti-glare coating, but it's still doesn't look good in a brightly lit room. The only reason I wouldn't go OLED is price and potentially burn in worries. If you're using the built in apps there really is no worry about pausing on static screens because the screen saver will kick in, but if you're using an external device to watch stuff maybe it could.
- Joined
- May 5, 2006
- Messages
- 5,781
The black areas will be black like you said but Zones will always have to offset against each other with whatever the firmware's bias is compared to per pixel emissive OLED. OLED just doesn't seem like it would be a good bet for my shared living room viewing. As far as viewing angles goes, I'm the most critical and I'm almost always sitting in the middle of the couch watching head on. Sitting off center is also bad for surround sound.
Rtings Review:
So there are some major tradeoffs but still seems like the best option vs OLED currently.
More from Rtings:
...
It might not be until closer to xmas because I want to flip my whole room around and put couch on the opposite wall Moving the surround system and other things in the living room is going to be a pita. I'd like to rip the carpet out and put a new floor in at some point actually.
The majority is not in brightly lit room. We often watch tv in the evening and after the sun goes down and blinds are pulled we just use bias lighting behind he tv and maybe a side floor lamp or two, each in line with the wall the tv is near. That or lights out except for the soft bias light behind the tv. However there are times we are viewing in the daytime where the blinds aren't drawn, especially weekends so it is bright then (especially in the summer).
I don't want a cheap screen. I want the closest to OLED I can get quality wise as I intend on keeping the TV for a handful of years.
The burn in is the worry on the OLED in the living room and on such a higher priced screen b/c my wife honestly does not want to give a fuck about burn in on a tv and her screen care etiquette will reflect that.
Then I am the polar opposite of that - taking extra care that some people who more or less wing it don't even bother to do.Essentially we both have concerns about burn in but coming from different mindsets. She doesn't want to have to worry about a glass cannon and I want to take extra care with all of my electronics.
The 5yr best buy warranty which covers burn in on the 77" LG OLED is $625 so it's not as appealing as when I got the warranty on the 48" CX to me either. It takes a $2999+tax ($3225) 77" OLED which is just above my ~ $3k window I wanted and ends up being $3850 after tax with the warranty.
So I see a few options:
....Get a 77" OLED with no warranty and end up nitpicking my wife's viewing habits which she would feel she shouldn't have to give a fuck about on a tv.... then if it actually burned in It would be a case where I'd be pissed off that it got burn in and I would end up thinking she is to blame. Meanwhile she'd be pissed off that I bought a susceptible to burn-in screen for $3300 to start with so would feel that I am to blame (which really wouldn't be wrong ultimately).
....prevent catastrophe by biting the bullet and sucking up the + ~$625 warranty cost for peace of mind. <<<<<<
.... Get the best FALD tv I can get in the same near $3k price range and never really have to consider burn in.
The 75" samsung is in the price neighborhood that the LG 77" OLED is... about $200 cheaper sticker price. Sans warranty the samsung comes out to be $3010 after tax while the LG C1 OLED with warranty after tax is $3850.
------------------------
Incidentally, my oculus quest (1) just died after 2 years so was outside of warranty. I went through all the support ticket agent's recommended steps but the unit is bricked, stuck on the boot screen oculus icon - so they left me holding a dead unit. I had bought the $450 model that had higher memory and had spent probably another $200 - $250 on quality of life peripherals .. headstrap, different face shields for exercise and padded pillowcase covered ones for other gaming, controller covers, etc etc. plus vr specific games. Now I'm stuck with a brick. The quest warranty is only 1 yr (2 years in UK), so if it dies on you it's bascially a pricey disposable. This left a very bad taste in my mouth about 1 yr warranties.
The LG C1 is also only a 1 yr warranty by default. The higher Tier LG's have a 5 yr warranty but that is probably at least as much as the best buy one I'm guessing in the overall price. Yeah, just checked and the 77" G1 is $4000 + tax (~ $4350).
-----------------------
I'll mull it over some more and discuss it with the wife. I might want to spring for OLED + warranty because otherwise either way (samsung fald vs non-warrantied OLED) I'd be making compromises that I am not happy with. It would take the pricing up a good tier higher than I had wanted to spend amongst all of my other purchases this year though. Maybe I'm just being stubborn about the ~ $3000 price point.
We have a 70" tv now and we don't want to downgrade size wise to 65" either. Modern tv lines force you into a higher pricing tier for 75" - 77" models since they don't offer a 70".
Last edited:
QN90A in the day time with ambient light looks pretty good and I'd say is only marginally worse in terms of contrast. In a dark/dim environment though there is no comparison.
You also have to consider that a QN90A outside of game mode is a completely different display compared to in game mode. I would have personally accepted a 3-5ms input lag penalty for retaining better local dimming or better yet give the user the option of gimping local dimming for input lag / preserving it for image quality.
Samsungs MO the past few years across TV/Monitors has been almost Apple like in that they want you to use their products exactly as they intend without deviation. LG gives the user some flexibility at least.
You also have to consider that a QN90A outside of game mode is a completely different display compared to in game mode. I would have personally accepted a 3-5ms input lag penalty for retaining better local dimming or better yet give the user the option of gimping local dimming for input lag / preserving it for image quality.
Samsungs MO the past few years across TV/Monitors has been almost Apple like in that they want you to use their products exactly as they intend without deviation. LG gives the user some flexibility at least.
Last edited:
sharknice
Supreme [H]ardness
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2012
- Messages
- 4,883
The black areas will be black like you said but Zones will always have to offset against each other with whatever the firmware's bias is compared to per pixel emissive OLED. OLED just doesn't seem like it would be a good bet for my shared living room viewing. As far as viewing angles goes, I'm the most critical and I'm almost always sitting in the middle of the couch watching head on. Sitting off center is also bad for surround sound.
Rtings Review:
So there are some major tradeoffs but still seems like the best option vs OLED currently.
More from Rtings:
View attachment 400140
...
It might not be until closer to xmas because I want to flip my whole room around and put couch on the opposite wall Moving the surround system and other things in the living room is going to be a pita. I'd actually like to rip the carpet out and put a new floor in at some point actually.
The majority is not in brightly lit room. We often watch tv in the evening and after the sun goes down and blinds are pulled we just use bias lighting behind he tv and maybe a side floor lamp or two, each in line with the wall the tv is near. That or lights out except for the soft bias light behind the tv. However there are times we are viewing in the daytime where the blinds aren't drawn, especially weekends so it is bright then (especially in the summer).
I don't want a cheap screen. I want the closest to OLED I can get quality wise as I intend on keeping the TV for a handful of years.
The burn in is the worry on the OLED in the living room and on such a higher priced screen b/c my wife honestly does not want to give a fuck about burn in on a tv and her screen care etiquette will reflect that.
Essentially we both have concerns about burn in but coming from different mindsets. She doesn't want to have to worry about a glass cannon and I want to take extra care with all of my electronics.
The 5yr best buy warranty which covers burn in on the 77" LG OLED is $625 so it's not as appealing as when I got the warranty on the 48" CX to me either. It takes a $2999+tax ($3225) 77" OLED which is just above my ~ $3k window I wanted and ends up being $3850 after tax with the warranty.
So I see a few options:
....Get a 77" OLED with no warranty and end up nitpicking my wife's viewing habits which she would feel she shouldn't have to give a fuck about on a tv.... then if it actually burned in It would be a case where I'd be pissed off that it got burn in and I would end up thinking she is to blame. Meanwhile she'd be pissed off that I bought a susceptible to burn-in screen for $3300 to start with so would feel that I am to blame (which really wouldn't be wrong ultimately).
....prevent catastrophe by biting the bullet and sucking up the + ~$625 warranty cost for peace of mind. <<<<<<
.... Get the best FALD tv I can get in the same near $3k price range and never really have to consider burn in.
The 75" samsung is in the price neighborhood that the LG 77" OLED is... about $200 cheaper sticker price. Sans warranty the samsung comes out to be $3010 after tax while the LG C1 OLED with warranty after tax is $3850.
------------------------
Incidentally, my oculus quest (1) just died after 2 years so was outside of warranty. I went through all the support ticket agent's recommended steps but the unit is bricked, stuck on the boot screen oculus icon - so they left me holding a dead unit. I had bought the $450 model that had higher memory and had spent probably another $200 - $250 on quality of life peripherals .. headstrap, different face shields for exercise and padded pillowcase covered ones for other gaming, controller covers, etc etc. plus vr specific games. Now I'm stuck with a brick. The quest warranty is only 1 yr (2 years in UK), so if it dies on you it's bascially a pricey disposable. This left a very bad taste in my mouth about 1 yr warranties.
The LG C1 is also only a 1 yr warranty by default. The higher Tier LG's have a 5 yr warranty but that is probably at least as much as the best buy one I'm guessing in the overall price. Yeah, just checked and the 77" G1 is $4000 + tax (~ $4350).
-----------------------
I'll mull it over some more and discuss it with the wife. I might want to spring for OLED + warranty because otherwise either way (samsung fald vs non-warrantied OLED) I'd be making compromises that I am not happy with. It would take the pricing up a good tier higher than I had wanted to spend amongst all of my other purchases this year though. Maybe I'm just being stubborn about the ~ $3000 price point.
We have a 70" tv now and we don't want to downgrade size wise to 65" either. Modern tv lines force you into a higher pricing tier for 75" - 77" models since they don't offer a 70".
Yeah it's a tough decision to make. You can go with an LCD and basically have no worries, but a big sacrifice in image quality, and you're not really spending any less which sucks.
I have a 65" B7 upstairs that we have nothing connected but an antenna, we just use the built in apps to watch netflix, disney+, etc. Same for the 77" GX downstairs. Since we only use the built in apps the screen saver kicks in.
The worst thing that happens when it's left unattended is the receiver connected via ARC auto-powers off which means you have to manually turn the receiver back on or you end up getting sound from the TV's built in speakers.
I also have tons of light coming in from the outside during the day and the TVs still look great, but they look amazing when it's night time or the curtains are closed. Dark room viewing is a night and day difference between OLED and LCD while the daytime viewing advantage the Samsung LCDs have is debatable or marginal at best.
I would feel pretty bad about having to sacrifice the OLED nighttime viewing experience. The only way I personally would consider an LCD is if you know your wife is going to use it as a monitor or abuse it in some way.
If you can stick to the built in apps I don't think you need to worry, I would really push for that if you can and go for the OLED.
A video from a youtuber about OLED issues:
I do not agree with the conclusion that OLED displays need to be replaced often. I haven't replaced my C7 since 2017 and it gets heavy use almost daily. Except for several months of summer breaks.
I did replaced the panel once, but it was most likely due to the excessive use of the Pixel Refresher procedure from my part. Need I say there was no permanent burn-in for all these years?
The only precaution I follow - no desktop icons and all black backgound. I don't run screensavers and the taskbar is up.
I do not agree with the conclusion that OLED displays need to be replaced often. I haven't replaced my C7 since 2017 and it gets heavy use almost daily. Except for several months of summer breaks.
I did replaced the panel once, but it was most likely due to the excessive use of the Pixel Refresher procedure from my part. Need I say there was no permanent burn-in for all these years?
The only precaution I follow - no desktop icons and all black backgound. I don't run screensavers and the taskbar is up.
pippenainteasy
[H]ard|Gawd
- Joined
- May 20, 2016
- Messages
- 1,207
So is there a difference between OLED brightness/contrast/screen brightness on which ones are more likely to cause burn in? I've seen youtube videos where people claim cranking contrast is the worst, some claim its oled brightness, and other claim don't touch brightness and just crank oled brightness. Opinions are all over the place.
I have my screen currently set at 60 OLED brightness, 85 contrast, 60 brightness. Going lower than this seems too dim for me, compared to my IPS monitors.
I have my screen currently set at 60 OLED brightness, 85 contrast, 60 brightness. Going lower than this seems too dim for me, compared to my IPS monitors.
harvindhillon
n00b
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- Aug 6, 2021
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OLED brightness is the actual brightness of the screen. The higher it is the higher the chance of burn in due to static images.
It very much depends on your room. I have an IPS screen next to mine to display stats and icons, it have it set to 70 brightness. For my OLED I have it set to 25-30 OLED Brightness in SDR and 80 in HDR. My room has direct sunlight though one window but it to the right of the screen so doesnt wash out the screen.
I would leave brightness and contrast untouched.
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Posted on the previous page.
https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/page-193#post-1045152114
Commentary on his video can be found in the posts following.
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I have a little time to figure it out which TV I go with because I have to redo the whole room and I'm in the middle of other projects at the moment. I think one of the reasons the vizio FALD is dying after 5 - 6 yrs is that it was on "all of the time". Working from home with it on, sleeping with it on in a times and out of sleep after work, leaving it on while cooking and eating etc. Also us having different schedules sometimes so having it on one after the other, etc.. It got a lot of on time.
However the thing that really beat it up is that I had it's back facing the picture window. It would get very hot with the sun cycle and then cool off with the air vents behind it in the floor shooting cold central AC air up. Also when the room cooled as the sun went down. I could hear the housing of the TV actually pop at times. A black rear housing facing direct sunlight was not a good room plan in hindsight. I did it that way in order to avoid the direct sunlight hitting the face of the screen though. Heat like that is bad on any tv and would be worse on an oled's organics vs burn in.
So no matter what I choose I will need to swap my huge sectional couch and long same-height hutches I set behind it along with a few other things to the window wall and move my large low-bench style tv stand and my whole surround system around to the other wall where the couch is now. I'll have to use the vertical blinds on the big window that will end up behind the couch more to control the light.
---------------------------------
Regarding the HDR/ OLED brightness convo going on:
Having my first HDR screen in getting my 48CX OLED at my pc, I prioritize getting and playing well implemented HDR games. I also use reshade with a fakeHDR filter and a lightroom filter to push SDR games into higher color volumes and black depths. Windows 11 will do something similar automatically, bumping SDR range games into a slightly higher color volume. I also play some HDR movies on the 48cx at times off of my nvidia shield. HDR content loads it's own metadata almost like switching resolution, so it doesn't matter what you set your (windows HDR) brightness to once that content kicks in. If you overrride hdr metadata of a game or movie (in order to watch it in an unsuitably bright environment for example) - you are going to clip or crush on the ends of the scale.
My point is that if you are using it for HDR content you are going to be using high luminance / color volumes which lick the screen like flames even if you have your windows/desktop settings lower. I'm not avoiding that though. HDR is one of the main reasons that I love OLED. I'm just bringing it up because people are talking about keeping their desktop brightness setting lower or lowering it on the TV. Of course my usage scenario is different because I'm not using my oled for desktop/apps. I'm using it for media and gaming and that includes a lot of HDR content. It's been mostly HDR content since I got it actually and like I said I even bump up SDR games into higher color volume with reshade and will continue to do that with windows 11's "auto HDR" at some later date. So almost all of my usage will be HDR and quasi-HDR color volumes / color brightnesses in scenes. That said, in majority of scenes the HDR color volumes are in the highlights and light sources while the bulk of the scene is in SDR color volume/brightness.
However the thing that really beat it up is that I had it's back facing the picture window. It would get very hot with the sun cycle and then cool off with the air vents behind it in the floor shooting cold central AC air up. Also when the room cooled as the sun went down. I could hear the housing of the TV actually pop at times. A black rear housing facing direct sunlight was not a good room plan in hindsight. I did it that way in order to avoid the direct sunlight hitting the face of the screen though. Heat like that is bad on any tv and would be worse on an oled's organics vs burn in.
So no matter what I choose I will need to swap my huge sectional couch and long same-height hutches I set behind it along with a few other things to the window wall and move my large low-bench style tv stand and my whole surround system around to the other wall where the couch is now. I'll have to use the vertical blinds on the big window that will end up behind the couch more to control the light.
---------------------------------
Regarding the HDR/ OLED brightness convo going on:
Having my first HDR screen in getting my 48CX OLED at my pc, I prioritize getting and playing well implemented HDR games. I also use reshade with a fakeHDR filter and a lightroom filter to push SDR games into higher color volumes and black depths. Windows 11 will do something similar automatically, bumping SDR range games into a slightly higher color volume. I also play some HDR movies on the 48cx at times off of my nvidia shield. HDR content loads it's own metadata almost like switching resolution, so it doesn't matter what you set your (windows HDR) brightness to once that content kicks in. If you overrride hdr metadata of a game or movie (in order to watch it in an unsuitably bright environment for example) - you are going to clip or crush on the ends of the scale.
My point is that if you are using it for HDR content you are going to be using high luminance / color volumes which lick the screen like flames even if you have your windows/desktop settings lower. I'm not avoiding that though. HDR is one of the main reasons that I love OLED. I'm just bringing it up because people are talking about keeping their desktop brightness setting lower or lowering it on the TV. Of course my usage scenario is different because I'm not using my oled for desktop/apps. I'm using it for media and gaming and that includes a lot of HDR content. It's been mostly HDR content since I got it actually and like I said I even bump up SDR games into higher color volume with reshade and will continue to do that with windows 11's "auto HDR" at some later date. So almost all of my usage will be HDR and quasi-HDR color volumes / color brightnesses in scenes. That said, in majority of scenes the HDR color volumes are in the highlights and light sources while the bulk of the scene is in SDR color volume/brightness.
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pippenainteasy
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Also one major problem I see with lowering brightness on the OLED is the color shift caused by the anti reflective coating on the glossy surface causing whites to look light cyan/greyish blue on the off angles/corners is incredibly distracting in a dark room. During daytime when there's lots of ambient light it doesn't matter much, but during nighttime if I turn off the lights and its the only light source the white to tinted cyan/grey color shift when I look at the corners of my C1 is incredibly distracting. There is some darkening of colors QN85A too on the off angles with whites becoming greyish in the corners but I can just just raise the brightness in a dark room and overpower that completely, and its not as distracting because its more greyish of a color rather cyan/blueish. So using the display at lower brightness means you are unable to overcome any visual problems from the glossy display or anti reflective coating that you normally could just ignore and crank up the brightness on a typical monitor.
So yeah I agree OLEDs make great TVs, but for a PC monitor, I'm actually leaning towards the FALD IPS display for less issues displaying text and also lighter colors like white which really needs higher brightness with a panel like this. I guess if you just run dark mode on everything and never look at white or light colors that's fine, but then you are basically trading off white performance for black performance lol.
So yeah I agree OLEDs make great TVs, but for a PC monitor, I'm actually leaning towards the FALD IPS display for less issues displaying text and also lighter colors like white which really needs higher brightness with a panel like this. I guess if you just run dark mode on everything and never look at white or light colors that's fine, but then you are basically trading off white performance for black performance lol.
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Or , space and budget permitting, you could use OLED as a media and gaming "stage" while using other screen(s) for desktop/app use. Either in an over/under or sbs setup.
equinox654
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I don't notice any color shifting on mine at low oled light. What I do notice is crushed blacks, fortunately that is irrelevant for my uses. Text is perfectly legible to me as well. Though I did mess will clear type when I got it and I'm using 200% ui scale.
Now days I use solidworks 8 hours a day Monday and Tuesday and the rest of the time it is pc gaming. Also have a 27" 144hz side monitor. I wouldn't mind getting some kind of arm for the oled and another monitor for my cad work. Just to save the panel to enjoy the things I bought it for.
Now days I use solidworks 8 hours a day Monday and Tuesday and the rest of the time it is pc gaming. Also have a 27" 144hz side monitor. I wouldn't mind getting some kind of arm for the oled and another monitor for my cad work. Just to save the panel to enjoy the things I bought it for.
I can’t understand in any way where this is supposed to be "incredibly distracting".
pippenainteasy
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That's why we have capitalism, for people who have different preferences right? There are people who don't understand the draw of a Mercedes, others a Tesla. There's something for everyone.
harvindhillon
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I do notice the tinting towards the edges but thats just because at a sitting distance, the edges are at an angle.
Sitting further away, I dont notice them
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I have zero problems at my viewing distance because it's beyond 60PPD.
.....
equinox654
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I have around 3' from my eyes to the panel.
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That’s legit.
I’ve heard other stories of LG being overly generous with panel replacements/warranty work. That wasn’t my experience when it came to the “business” version of their first 34” ultrawide which was supposed to have a better warranty than the consumer model.
Maybe it only applies to their OLED TVs, or they’ve improved their warranty policies since 2015. Either way, that’s awesome.
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I sprung for the best buy warranty when I purchased my LG CX since it's one of the only ext. warranties verified to cover burn in. Over 5 yrs it comes out to around $60 insurance/year for the 48" CX. If I end up getting an oled tv for the living room I'll probably do the same thing even though the warranty is a lot more expensive and harder to swallow on larger models (prob wait for a bestbuy black friday deal to offset that cost a little). Worth it for peace of mind - especially on a screen that isn't solely used by me in the living room.
I'll mention again that my oculus quest (1) died just around the 2 year mark, stuck on the boot screen no matter what I did .. I went through the ticket process and all of the resets etc but I'm left with a ($450 higher memory model at the time I purchased) brick and a bunch of quality of life peripherals/head set mods (~ $250+) and also some VR specific games I bought that are useless now. I know a quest 2 is "only" $300 but still, companies don't back up fragile electronics much so the more the price tag is and how fragile the electronics are the more I look at ext. warranty. Quest1 is 1 yr mfg warranty in usa and 2 yrs mfg warranty in UK btw. The last 8 months of my quest 1 use has been mostly sit down gaming on occasion and some demoing of things, nothing extreme or violent. Other than that it's been on a shelf. There are some better vr headsets in the works so I'm going to wait it out on that front now. Not very happy with the whole FB thing anyway.
-------------------------------------------------------
Not sure if anyone posted this here before. It's another video showcasing LG OLEDs in ultrawide modes I saw posted on reddit. I'm not a fan of shrinking it to 32:9 (1080h) but still pretty cool options. 21:9 is more viable/useful to me for some games.
Edit:
Perhaps in the future with a larger 8k (7680 x 4320) screen we could do:
21:9 resolution as 7680 x 3290
and
32:9 as 7680 x 2160 resolution.
As that video said, you'd actually want a much larger screen than 48" to do 32:9 with and imo higher than 1080px tall.
With a 48" screen, 32:9 is the full screen width of 42.1" by only 11.8" high according to that vid.
Roughly based on screen dimensions, probably a little smaller in actual screen viewable:
65" 16:9 TV ~ 56.7" wide x 31.9" high
.............. 60 PPD 20/20 vision threshold starts at: 14.6" viewing distance for 8k ,... 45.3" viewing distance for 4k
.................80 PPD 20/15 vision threshold starts at: 26.9" viewing distance for 8k .... 63.6" viewing distance for 4k
................ 8k would allow much nearer even for 20/15 but you still wouldn't see the extents and HUD best until you approached the screen diagonal as the view distance (though you might want somewhat closer to get peripheral immersion for driving and flight games in uw modes)
-------> 21:9 ~ 61.5" diagonal at 24.1" high
-------> 32:9 ~ 58" diagonal at 16" high
55" 16:9 TV ~ 47.9" wide x 27" high
.............. 60 PPD 20/20 vision threshold starts at: 12.3" viewing distance for 8k.... 38.4" viewing distance for 4k
.................80 PPD 20/15 vision threshold starts at: 22.8" viewing distance for 8k.....53.8" viewing distance for 4k
................ 8k would allow much nearer even for 20/15 but you still wouldn't see the extents and HUD best until you approached the screen diagonal as the view distance (though you might want somewhat closer to get peripheral immersion for driving and flight games in uw modes)
--------> 21:9 ~ 52" diagonal at 20.5" high
--------> 32:9 ~ 49.5" diagonal at 13.4" high
I think for now the 3840 x1620 uw is a great option physical size wise on the 48" though and resolution wise considering gpu power, along with 16:9 4k at 33.5" to 38"-40" distance.
In the future we might have a larger wall of screen resolution and need to letterbox all 4 sides ... at least until mixed reality gets high enough resolution. You could do that on a large 8k screen even, putting 4k resolution or 3840x1600 21:9 version in the middle letterboxed on all 4 sides for gaming but it would have to be a big 8k screen to start with.
I'll mention again that my oculus quest (1) died just around the 2 year mark, stuck on the boot screen no matter what I did .. I went through the ticket process and all of the resets etc but I'm left with a ($450 higher memory model at the time I purchased) brick and a bunch of quality of life peripherals/head set mods (~ $250+) and also some VR specific games I bought that are useless now. I know a quest 2 is "only" $300 but still, companies don't back up fragile electronics much so the more the price tag is and how fragile the electronics are the more I look at ext. warranty. Quest1 is 1 yr mfg warranty in usa and 2 yrs mfg warranty in UK btw. The last 8 months of my quest 1 use has been mostly sit down gaming on occasion and some demoing of things, nothing extreme or violent. Other than that it's been on a shelf. There are some better vr headsets in the works so I'm going to wait it out on that front now. Not very happy with the whole FB thing anyway.
-------------------------------------------------------
Not sure if anyone posted this here before. It's another video showcasing LG OLEDs in ultrawide modes I saw posted on reddit. I'm not a fan of shrinking it to 32:9 (1080h) but still pretty cool options. 21:9 is more viable/useful to me for some games.
Edit:
Perhaps in the future with a larger 8k (7680 x 4320) screen we could do:
21:9 resolution as 7680 x 3290
and
32:9 as 7680 x 2160 resolution.
As that video said, you'd actually want a much larger screen than 48" to do 32:9 with and imo higher than 1080px tall.
With a 48" screen, 32:9 is the full screen width of 42.1" by only 11.8" high according to that vid.
Roughly based on screen dimensions, probably a little smaller in actual screen viewable:
65" 16:9 TV ~ 56.7" wide x 31.9" high
.............. 60 PPD 20/20 vision threshold starts at: 14.6" viewing distance for 8k ,... 45.3" viewing distance for 4k
.................80 PPD 20/15 vision threshold starts at: 26.9" viewing distance for 8k .... 63.6" viewing distance for 4k
................ 8k would allow much nearer even for 20/15 but you still wouldn't see the extents and HUD best until you approached the screen diagonal as the view distance (though you might want somewhat closer to get peripheral immersion for driving and flight games in uw modes)
-------> 21:9 ~ 61.5" diagonal at 24.1" high
-------> 32:9 ~ 58" diagonal at 16" high
55" 16:9 TV ~ 47.9" wide x 27" high
.............. 60 PPD 20/20 vision threshold starts at: 12.3" viewing distance for 8k.... 38.4" viewing distance for 4k
.................80 PPD 20/15 vision threshold starts at: 22.8" viewing distance for 8k.....53.8" viewing distance for 4k
................ 8k would allow much nearer even for 20/15 but you still wouldn't see the extents and HUD best until you approached the screen diagonal as the view distance (though you might want somewhat closer to get peripheral immersion for driving and flight games in uw modes)
--------> 21:9 ~ 52" diagonal at 20.5" high
--------> 32:9 ~ 49.5" diagonal at 13.4" high
I think for now the 3840 x1620 uw is a great option physical size wise on the 48" though and resolution wise considering gpu power, along with 16:9 4k at 33.5" to 38"-40" distance.
In the future we might have a larger wall of screen resolution and need to letterbox all 4 sides ... at least until mixed reality gets high enough resolution. You could do that on a large 8k screen even, putting 4k resolution or 3840x1600 21:9 version in the middle letterboxed on all 4 sides for gaming but it would have to be a big 8k screen to start with.
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Running at 32:9 becomes more an issue of not having curvature on the screen so it's awkward to use. Though the 3840x1080 resolution in that situation does not help either. I think the CX works best as an ultrawide using 3840x1600.
Maybe 3840x1200 would be worth a try as well? I tried one of the 43" Samsungs with that res and thought it worked much better than the 49" 3840x1080 model.
Maybe 3840x1200 would be worth a try as well? I tried one of the 43" Samsungs with that res and thought it worked much better than the 49" 3840x1080 model.
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harvindhillon
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Yea I usually have the 3840x1600 on RPGs like cyberpunk and horizon zero dawn, and the extra real-estate does help. I think 1080p would be too wide and distorted.
B6 owner here, I've definitely run into burn in, the worst of it was done early back when I was still blasting the backlight. In my case, it was the Taskbar that did me in. But after years of very heavy use (including two years plus WFH) I do so other areas starting to degrade (specifically, I can see areas where the panel simply can't drive the pixels as bright, which corresponds to where I put my Windows while I'm WFH). Granted, the B6 was before most of the anti-burn in tech went into the sets, and blasting the OLED backlight didn't help. But I would say that if you use OLED heavily you *will* likely need one panel replacement over the sets lifetime, which isn't ideal. And that's something people just aren't used to.
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Yeah, your situation is a bit unique when presented in this thread considering the generational panel improvements and increased knowledge about OLED best practices (when used as a monitor, anyway).
1 - Your B6 is what, 5+ years old at this point? As you've said, LG has improved their panel tech to make newer ones less susceptible to burn-in.
2 - You admittedly blasted the backlight, possibly combined with #3 below
3 - As far as your WFH and window placement, did you tend to keep your windows in the same position on screen? I try to vary this, myself.
At the end of the day, as I've stated before, I'd rather replace my screen every 5 years than deal with LCD shortcomings. But, here's the thing...I don't think that will be necessary. There are several factors to take into account here. If you had taken the appropriate precautions with your B6, you might not have experienced any burn-in. Or, if you had a newer improved panel and used it the same way you did then, you might not have had burn-in. My point is that if you have a newer panel -and- you don't blast the backlight -and- you make an effort to reduce static content, these should last years without noticeable image degradation. I used my B7 for 2.5 years (with 1.5 years of that being WFH) and now my CX is going on 1.5 years old of daily WFH 10+ hour a day use and it is as beautiful and uniform as ever if I throw up a light grey full screen fill in MS Paint.
I didn't opt for an extended warranty, but the people who did should sleep soundly knowing that should something happen within several years of owning the thing, they'll be covered. I'm personally not worried about it after my B7 ownership experience. If I get 5 years of 8-10 hour per day monitor use out of the CX, I'll just replace it with whatever's better then. Every display is a compromise and these OLEDs have had the least amount of drawbacks out of any monitor I've used in 25 years of PC gaming so I'll do my best to take care of them and make them last until a superior display tech is mainstream.
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People overstate burn in. There are asbl and abl auto brightness limiters that kick in and there is also a wear evening routine that the (LG) screens do every so often (intelligently based on wear/use) in standby. The highest brightness ranges (outside of what you are able to utilize yourself normally) are reserved for this so you have a buffer that will last a long time depending on your usage scenario. They also use a pixel shift tech and a static logo dimming tech.
LG oleds are not like phone and tablet handhelds either. They use an all white array of emitters that go through color filters (instead of a different color oled for each color) - which helps with wear evening. The extra blank subpixel they include in WRGB shows pure white which also allows them to cheat a higher brightness color to your eyes at lower OLED energy states/heat than otherwise .. with minimal color pollution vs accuracy by the white.
--------------
In regard to running 21:10 material: utilizing the wear-evening routine, the bars will be worn down to the same levels as the rest of the screen you are using. That should last for a long time - until the whole screen ran out of the reserved brightness range buffer. Basically, the wear evening routine would make it so that it is as if you had been using the whole screen (16:9) even if you mainly used 21:10 mode.
It will only have worn the emitters out to below the stock levels when the whole screen runs down beneath the wear-evening buffer.
--------------
So the newer OLEDs have better protections from burn in than the older ones. They reserve a relatively large brightness range (the last 25% I believe) for screen wear evening, have logo dimming feature (static image after 5 mins I think). There is also a "turn of the screen" emitters without going into standby feature you can use whenever you go afk or aren't actively using the screen (sort of like minimizing the screen contents but emitters entirely off). The screen doesn't drop out of the array and as far as the system and running content is concerned the screen is still "on". One touch of the remote wakes the emitters up. If you utilize that every time you aren't giving the screen face time you should extend the lifespan considerably.
You can also spring for the bestbuy warranty at purchase, which for a 48" screen came out to around $60 a year for 5 yrs insurance vs burn in and any other issues. So you'd be in the clear for at least 5 years (maybe more if you had to get a replacement late in the 5 yr period). That's what I did with mine.
That said, user etiquette and people potentially bypassing recommended safety features and brightness settings, overriding things or just being sloppy can increase the odds. OLED are also susceptible to heat so having sunlight blast one can be bad (e.g. the TV's back against a window with sun exposure), non-air conditioned very hot summer environments, etc.. In the same vein, some of the panasonic oleds in the UK came with a full sheet of metal heatsink on the back of the oled screen internally which allowed them to hit higher peak color volumes safely.
---------------------------------------------
I use mine as a media and gaming "stage" with a different screen on the side for desktop/app use.
Even so, I use ultra black wallpaper and keep all of my icons in a favorited/bookmarked folder in my file manager. Win button opens start menu if you need it. Win+S and typing 2 keys + enter opens practically anything. Win+Tab switches between apps. Little reason to use a taskbar outside of the system tray for certain apps really. If you have a streamdeck , even less reason. So I use a show/hide hotkey toggle in taskbarhider app to lock the taskbar away as well as using translucent taskbar app to make it's background clear. I can also drag it to a secondary monitor if I want to.
And like I said, I have the 5 yr best buy warranty which covers burn-in so I'm pretty much covered. It came out to around $60 a year insurance. I still use good screen etiquette though. By the time 5 years or so is up, if not a bit sooner, I'll be likely be looking for a different screen.
--------------------------------------------
LG oleds are not like phone and tablet handhelds either. They use an all white array of emitters that go through color filters (instead of a different color oled for each color) - which helps with wear evening. The extra blank subpixel they include in WRGB shows pure white which also allows them to cheat a higher brightness color to your eyes at lower OLED energy states/heat than otherwise .. with minimal color pollution vs accuracy by the white.
--------------
In regard to running 21:10 material: utilizing the wear-evening routine, the bars will be worn down to the same levels as the rest of the screen you are using. That should last for a long time - until the whole screen ran out of the reserved brightness range buffer. Basically, the wear evening routine would make it so that it is as if you had been using the whole screen (16:9) even if you mainly used 21:10 mode.
It will only have worn the emitters out to below the stock levels when the whole screen runs down beneath the wear-evening buffer.
--------------
So the newer OLEDs have better protections from burn in than the older ones. They reserve a relatively large brightness range (the last 25% I believe) for screen wear evening, have logo dimming feature (static image after 5 mins I think). There is also a "turn of the screen" emitters without going into standby feature you can use whenever you go afk or aren't actively using the screen (sort of like minimizing the screen contents but emitters entirely off). The screen doesn't drop out of the array and as far as the system and running content is concerned the screen is still "on". One touch of the remote wakes the emitters up. If you utilize that every time you aren't giving the screen face time you should extend the lifespan considerably.
You can also spring for the bestbuy warranty at purchase, which for a 48" screen came out to around $60 a year for 5 yrs insurance vs burn in and any other issues. So you'd be in the clear for at least 5 years (maybe more if you had to get a replacement late in the 5 yr period). That's what I did with mine.
That said, user etiquette and people potentially bypassing recommended safety features and brightness settings, overriding things or just being sloppy can increase the odds. OLED are also susceptible to heat so having sunlight blast one can be bad (e.g. the TV's back against a window with sun exposure), non-air conditioned very hot summer environments, etc.. In the same vein, some of the panasonic oleds in the UK came with a full sheet of metal heatsink on the back of the oled screen internally which allowed them to hit higher peak color volumes safely.
---------------------------------------------
I use mine as a media and gaming "stage" with a different screen on the side for desktop/app use.
Even so, I use ultra black wallpaper and keep all of my icons in a favorited/bookmarked folder in my file manager. Win button opens start menu if you need it. Win+S and typing 2 keys + enter opens practically anything. Win+Tab switches between apps. Little reason to use a taskbar outside of the system tray for certain apps really. If you have a streamdeck , even less reason. So I use a show/hide hotkey toggle in taskbarhider app to lock the taskbar away as well as using translucent taskbar app to make it's background clear. I can also drag it to a secondary monitor if I want to.
And like I said, I have the 5 yr best buy warranty which covers burn-in so I'm pretty much covered. It came out to around $60 a year insurance. I still use good screen etiquette though. By the time 5 years or so is up, if not a bit sooner, I'll be likely be looking for a different screen.
--------------------------------------------
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sharknice
Supreme [H]ardness
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- 4,883
The panel tech itself and the firmware were both drastically improved to prevent burn in.
They were fine for TVs before, but I don't think they were ready for monitor use until the 2019 models with regard to burn-in, unless you wanted to take a lot of extra precautions. Whereas with 2019 and newer models won't get burn in unless you abuse them.
Personally I would think it's still worth buying an OLED for a monitor even if it was expected to only last 5 years (but I think it will last much longer). High end "comparable" LCD monitors are more expensive and still have vastly inferior image quality. The only advantage an LCD has is longevity. That's very low on the priority list for someone buying the absolute highest end best technology, because something much better will be out 10 years, 5 years, 3 years, sometimes even a year later.
That's why I think if you're in the market for the highest end display you can get OLED is by far the best option. If you're worried about spending that much and it only lasting 3 years you probably shouldn't be spending that much to begin with and instead going with a mid-range LCD.
Oh, I'm not disagreeing. Barring a 55" MicroLED, I'm going OLED again. But it *is* something you need to be honest about when recommending people get OLEDs. And I'm *always* cautious to remind people my B6 was before a lot of the anti-burn in tech started to make its way into the panels.
Yep, OLED is amazing and will serve a lot of people well but it is definitely not for everyone in its current iteration. I don't know how much the tech can be refined but I guess it will never be ideal for monitor use in bright rooms for example.
HDR will also gain more and more traction and super bright highlights will most likely remain challenging. It doesn't matter to me right now but once high quality HDR is everywhere and LCDs have a gazillion zones it will be a different story and I think that future is not very far off. OLED will still have some strengths even then but it may not be as much of a winner as it is now.
HDR will also gain more and more traction and super bright highlights will most likely remain challenging. It doesn't matter to me right now but once high quality HDR is everywhere and LCDs have a gazillion zones it will be a different story and I think that future is not very far off. OLED will still have some strengths even then but it may not be as much of a winner as it is now.