LG 48CX

hhkb · Nov 20, 2020

shadow2761 said:
Just recieved my 48" CX.
I also have a 38" LG 38GL950G UltraGaming monitor.

I have some concerns regarding SDR PC gaming.

Now, for some reason my CX 'game (user)' picture setting is very dull in color and Dim. I have followed mostly all the settings instructions here:
https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/ixhy39/lg_cx_gamingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/
I also have the latest Australian firmware installed 03.11.25.

Yet still, my 'Game (user)' is very very dull and dim in comparison to my LG 38GL950G. I tried to stuff around with settings and could not get any desirable image quality.

But when I select 'Vivid' picture setting, everything looks absolutely gorgeous! I feel a massive difference in image quality.

But my concern is that I don't think SDR PC gaming was intended to be done with Vivid picture setting. Am I suppose to be using game picture instead? I don't feel much difference in input delay when I use Vivid, and I also still get the notification 'instant game response' when I launch a game in Vivid setting.

Can anyone chime in here, Am I doing something wrong?

I am using RTX 3090.

Yes you should use Gaming mode for minimal latency (although there is some evidence it doesn't matter if you set HDMI to PC mode).

Hard to know what "dull and dim" means. Like not very bright? It's possible you are used to oversaturated colors and high brightness, which is the default setting on many monitors (showroom or vivid mode), so maybe you just need to get used to normal colors and normal brightness.

El3c · Nov 20, 2020

Sometimes when i boot up my pc, the default settings switches to 1024x768 if i then choose UHD, Windows sets the display to 119.997Hz insteaed of 120Hz. If that happens, VRR is stuck at 120Hz. You can enable the freesync menu while hitting the green button 5 times.

Seems like a Bug on Windows or Nvidias end

elvn · Nov 20, 2020

El3c said:
A Second HDMI oder DP to HDMI would not work, i ve tried that... VRR isn´t working when a second hdmi device is attached that doesnt support VRR.

You can try this. Mine came in but I don't have the LG OLED yet to test it with. The specs, promotional material and reviews say it works with VRR active. So it will work with 4k 10bit 444 VRR on the display while sending anything audio-wise including atmos to your receiver on the other hdmi line. This is made to work with receivers without an eARC connection, porting the audio into one of the hdmi inputs on the non eARC receiver. Since it would be bypassing your LG CX audio-wise, it should work with DTS also which would eliminate another issue (or at least avoid the need to transcode dts to pcm).

https://www.amazon.com/Thenaudio-SHARC-Converter-Processor-384kHz/dp/B083QPCNQN/

madpistol · Nov 20, 2020

phinix said:
Thanks for confirming.
I'm planning to use RTX 3070 - well, once I'll be able to buy one

So it sounds like it is really the best PC monitor money can get right now?

The CX is the leader as far as Picture Quality and pixels response goes. If you're looking for a large PC Monitor, the LG CX is king.

As hhkb pointed out, though, there are monitors out there with faster response times and faster refresh rates. If you're a competitive gamer, a 240hz or 360hz monitor will serve you better.

El3c · Nov 20, 2020

elvn said:
You can try this. Mine came in but I don't have the LG OLED yet to test it with. The specs, promotional material and reviews say it works with VRR active. So it will work with 4k 10bit 444 VRR on the display while sending anything audio-wise including atmos to your receiver on the other hdmi line. This is made to work with receivers without an eARC connection, porting the audio into one of the hdmi inputs on the non eARC receiver. Since it would be bypassing your LG CX audio-wise, it should work with DTS also which would eliminate another issue (or at least avoid the need to transcode dts to pcm).

https://www.amazon.com/Thenaudio-SHARC-Converter-Processor-384kHz/dp/B083QPCNQN/

As i said, it does not work! I ve tried it... But my solution with toslink and realtek Audio Chip works fine.

Skott · Nov 20, 2020

Didnt see it asked yet and guessing the answer will be no but did anyone get their hands on a AMD 6800 or 6800XT and try it on the 48CX yet? I'm curious how the tv performance will be when compared to AMD's cards.

Lateralus · Nov 20, 2020

6 months in and most of the kinks have been worked out through firmware updates with more to come I'm sure...I'm still at 4K/120Hz/4:2:0 and continue to be impressed with this display every day. I use it all day for work and always look forward to how stunning games and video content looks. This is one hell of a gift to PC enthusiasts. I had adapted to my 55B7 but have to say the 48 is much more practical for PC distances when viewing full screen content. I actually paid more for the 48CX than my 55B7 but it's worth it for the size and additional features. Thanks to everyone for their input in terms of issues you've had as well as what's working well now after firmware fixes. It's been a lot to keep up with but this thread has been a great source of info. Once I'm able to score an HDMI 2.1 GPU it's end game for me. I hope they continue the 48" size with the C11 and wonder what improvements it'll bring besides a new processor. It's hard to see how they can improve much on what's here other than minor tweaks.

zippy23 · Nov 20, 2020

Does anyone know how to use a custom resolution for ultrawide on this and have the portion that is being displayed moved up or down so the black bars are either completely on top or below?

Here is what it currently does and below is what I'd like it to do. Ignore the resolutions it was taken from another post about another display.

Currently

Would like

dpoverlord · Nov 20, 2020

hhkb said:
Yes you should use Gaming mode for minimal latency (although there is some evidence it doesn't matter if you set HDMI to PC mode).

Hard to know what "dull and dim" means. Like not very bright? It's possible you are used to oversaturated colors and high brightness, which is the default setting on many monitors (showroom or vivid mode), so maybe you just need to get used to normal colors and normal brightness.

elvn said:
You can try this. Mine came in but I don't have the LG OLED yet to test it with. The specs, promotional material and reviews say it works with VRR active. So it will work with 4k 10bit 444 VRR on the display while sending anything audio-wise including atmos to your receiver on the other hdmi line. This is made to work with receivers without an eARC connection, porting the audio into one of the hdmi inputs on the non eARC receiver. Since it would be bypassing your LG CX audio-wise, it should work with DTS also which would eliminate another issue (or at least avoid the need to transcode dts to pcm).

https://www.amazon.com/Thenaudio-SHARC-Converter-Processor-384kHz/dp/B083QPCNQN/

Having the SAME issues.

My issues which I spent the last 2 days trying to figure out

1. Game mode looks VERY dull, my old Samsung JS9000 had a brighter picture in gaming. On Game mode, it almost looks Dull with HDR set to on in windows 10.
Check this thread:
AV Forum Audio Delay - LG C9 / CX Gsync Surround Sound ISSUES

They seem to be helping me figuring this out but crossing my fingers. I tried the rtRatings and TF settings but when I utilize game mode the brightness plummets. While if you use film mode or an option I forgot the oled brightens up.

I also can't seem to get G-Sync or any games to play at 120FPS. Overwatch, for example it is locked at 70FPS. That thread gave some ideas so will try it out but I cannot be the only person with an Nvidia 3090 + CX 55" + Atmos sound bar.

I set Nvidia Control Panel:
FAST Vsync
Performance Mode
Max Frame set to 120FPS

In Overwatch I have to set it to Custom Frame Rate but it feels no different to how my Samsung was, if anything it has more tearing so I know I am doing something wrong. I thought I would have this feeling of smoothness everyone mentioned and brighter colors so I 1000% have to be doing something wrong.

2. MAJOR Audio Lag wtf!? Had no issues with my Samsung 2015 with HDMI converting to DOlby Atmos. At one point there was lag but I made it negative value and #ProblemSolved.
So now it seems the issue is that LG is 'notorious' for having audio delay problems.

Solution: Zone-2 eArc Audio box I am not so pleased that I need to spend another $200 to not have an Audio Delay.
When the HDMI from the TV to Creative Sonic Carrier receiver is set there is a HUGE Audio Delay. I don't want to use the speaker on the TV so at a loss but I guess I will fork over more money

.

Scottyl48 · Nov 20, 2020

I have a asus pg34 ultrawide 100hz. Is this monitor an upgrade? Im thinking about this monitor or the lg 38950.

elvn · Nov 20, 2020

I'm just going by reviews but the SHARC audio device splits off before the TV and sends one HDMI cable to your (non eARC capable) audio receiver and the other cable to your TV for video. The reviewers have said it works fine with VRR even from an xbox's VRR.

It's not passing audio through the TV at all so idk why it would have any issue from the TV. It's splitting the signal from the GPU itself when running off of a PC.

from a reddit reply:

The main thing people get wrong is they put the sharc into the arc port on their avr. It should actually be put into a regular hdmi in port, not arc in. Should be - > Tv - arc/e-arc - sharc - hdmi in - avr.

You can also go into your AVR's settings and disable ARC entirely if it has it since the SHARC uses regular hdmi input and isn't using arc/eARC at all.

El3c said:
As i said, it does not work! I ve tried it... But my solution with toslink and realtek Audio Chip works fine.

You can not get uncompressed HDMI audio formats like dolby TrueHD or dolby Atmos (dolby TrueHD + atmos metadata added) when running toslink/spdif optical. You have to run HDMI for uncompressed audio formats.

kasakka · Nov 20, 2020

Lateralus said:
6 months in and most of the kinks have been worked out through firmware updates with more to come I'm sure...I'm still at 4K/120Hz/4:2:0 and continue to be impressed with this display every day. I use it all day for work and always look forward to how stunning games and video content looks. This is one hell of a gift to PC enthusiasts. I had adapted to my 55B7 but have to say the 48 is much more practical for PC distances when viewing full screen content. I actually paid more for the 48CX than my 55B7 but it's worth it for the size and additional features. Thanks to everyone for their input in terms of issues you've had as well as what's working well now after firmware fixes. It's been a lot to keep up with but this thread has been a great source of info. Once I'm able to score an HDMI 2.1 GPU it's end game for me. I hope they continue the 48" size with the C11 and wonder what improvements it'll bring besides a new processor. It's hard to see how they can improve much on what's here other than minor tweaks.

I have the same experience. While it has not been exactly a smooth ride with difficulties on mounting, viewing distance, Club3D adapter, firmware problems...at this point I like using it everyday for work and for personal things.

dpoverlord · Nov 20, 2020

dpoverlord said:
Having the SAME issues.

My issues which I spent the last 2 days trying to figure out

1. Game mode looks VERY dull, my old Samsung JS9000 had a brighter picture in gaming. On Game mode, it almost looks Dull with HDR set to on in windows 10.
Check this thread:
AV Forum Audio Delay - LG C9 / CX Gsync Surround Sound ISSUES

They seem to be helping me figuring this out but crossing my fingers. I tried the rtRatings and TF settings but when I utilize game mode the brightness plummets. While if you use film mode or an option I forgot the oled brightens up.

I also can't seem to get G-Sync or any games to play at 120FPS. Overwatch, for example it is locked at 70FPS. That thread gave some ideas so will try it out but I cannot be the only person with an Nvidia 3090 + CX 55" + Atmos sound bar.

I set Nvidia Control Panel:
FAST Vsync
Performance Mode
Max Frame set to 120FPS

In Overwatch I have to set it to Custom Frame Rate but it feels no different to how my Samsung was, if anything it has more tearing so I know I am doing something wrong. I thought I would have this feeling of smoothness everyone mentioned and brighter colors so I 1000% have to be doing something wrong.

2. MAJOR Audio Lag wtf!? Had no issues with my Samsung 2015 with HDMI converting to DOlby Atmos. At one point there was lag but I made it negative value and #ProblemSolved.
So now it seems the issue is that LG is 'notorious' for having audio delay problems.

Solution: Zone-2 eArc Audio box I am not so pleased that I need to spend another $200 to not have an Audio Delay.
When the HDMI from the TV to Creative Sonic Carrier receiver is set there is a HUGE Audio Delay. I don't want to use the speaker on the TV so at a loss but I guess I will fork over more money .

elvn said:
I'm just going by reviews but the SHARC audio device splits off before the TV and sends one HDMI cable to your (non eARC capable) audio receiver and the other cable to your TV for video. The reviewers have said it works fine with VRR even from an xbox's VRR.

It's not passing audio through the TV at all so idk why it would have any issue from the TV. It's splitting the signal from the GPU itself when running off of a PC.

You can not get uncompressed HDMI audio formats like dolby TrueHD or dolby Atmos (dolby TrueHD + atmos metadata added) when running toslink/spdif optical. You have to run HDMI for uncompressed audio formats.

Right but we want to keep Gsync so
PC 4k HDMI Cable ----> LG TV

HDMI from LG TV ---> Shark eArc Box ----> HDMI OUT Sonic Carrier?

Or should we have:

PC HDMI ---> LG HDMI
PC Displayport ---> Displayport / Hdmi Adaptor -----> Creative Sonic Carrier
LG CX HDMI ---> Shark EArc Box ---> HDMI OUT Sonic Carrier

Only because I have a Nintendo Switch, Xbox X, ChromeCast in the Sonic Carrier. They would need to output their Video to the LG TV.
If that is the case I need HDMI video to the TV and Still need to get the Audio from the TV Apps to the Sonic Carrier

Whats the most efficient with least FPS lag / audio lag?

elvn · Nov 20, 2020

I went through the sharc site to learn how to set it up. It seems it makes the split after the eARC output from the TV so it would still be subject to the LG CX's hard pass through limitations (e.g. no DTS) and other possible firmware related issues. It basically "adds and eARC port" to a slightly older receiver that has arc or that has no arc at all (like the old onkyo I'm using at my pc).

SHARC receives audio from TV via eARC channel and converts the incoming audio formats suitable for the existing sound system that has no eARC support.

Additionally eARC audio using PCM can be output via the analog line-level outputs as well as head-phones output.

Connect your devices to the hdmi 2.1 ports of the LG CX (pc, ps5 for example). The LG CX has 4 ports but one has to be used for eARC audio out so that leaves 3 inputs.

Then you connect the eARC OUT hdmi of the LG CX to port 1 of the SHARC.
then
Connect sharc port 2 to a HDMI input on the AVR .. make sure it's NOT an ARC capable hdmi input. You can also go into the settings of the AVR and disable arc/eARC too.

Don't put any devices on the other hdmi inputs on the AVR.

Make sure you update the SHARC firmware.

The setup is very simple

Connect eARC/ARC capable TV input port to the SHARC port 1) labeled “CONNECT TO TV eARC/ARC PORT”

Connect one of the AVR/AMPLIFIER/SOUND DEVICE inputs to the SHARC port 2) labeled “CONNECT TO SOUND SYSTEM INPUT PORT”

[OPTIONAL] Connect optical and analog audio outputs to their corresponding devices.

Connect the USB MICRO power cable to a 5V/0.5A power source or to any of the available USB ports on your TV. Do not exceed 5V.

Select the corresponding AVR/AMPLIFIER/SOUND DEVICE input port where SHARC is connected

Remove any connections from AVR/AMPLIFIER/SOUND DEVICE output to the TV (to remove CEC loops)

Turn on TV, ensure CEC control is enabled and eARC/ARC is active. CEC is sometimes called SimpLink/etc depending on TV model

Start audio streaming source, e.g. Netflix / Prime video / .. and listen to audio

If the LG CX passthrough is still too screwed up to be usable due to poor implementation by LG that would really suck. You could revert to using the "phantom monitor trick" by making your receiver into a monitor in the nvidia settings and setting that monitor to be the hdmi audio but that is sloppy. It messes up my displayfusion window settings and saved window position profiles any time I turn the receiver off - for times that I only want to use headphones for example and not keep the hotplate of a receiver on for no reason. It will shuffle window positions every time you turn it on and off even without displayfusion considerations. I thought this TV would be the modern choice for hdmi 2.1 and audio pass through so I hope that it can make it happen or I would consider it disappointing. AFAIK the C9 has no such issues so why take a step backward?

shadow2761 · Nov 20, 2020

hhkb said:
Yes you should use Gaming mode for minimal latency (although there is some evidence it doesn't matter if you set HDMI to PC mode).

Hard to know what "dull and dim" means. Like not very bright? It's possible you are used to oversaturated colors and high brightness, which is the default setting on many monitors (showroom or vivid mode), so maybe you just need to get used to normal colors and normal brightness.

I understand, but I also tried my LG E6 2016 model game mode and even that looks way brighter and vivid compared to my CX game mode.

I feel like I have not got something set right. Another use on another forum stated that these Oleds usually need 4hrs or so of use to settle in and they will brighten up.

So far I only have about 2 hrs use.

Scottyl48 said:
I have a asus pg34 ultrawide 100hz. Is this monitor an upgrade? Im thinking about this monitor or the lg 38950.

I have both displays. But I only just got my CX and only have 2 hrs use. I still have to work things out on this display before I compare it to my LG 38GL950G.

But the only thing the 38GL950G will definitely win on currently, is the response and smoothness is far superior.

brainfried · Nov 20, 2020

zippy23 said:
Does anyone know how to use a custom resolution for ultrawide on this and have the portion that is being displayed moved up or down so the black bars are either completely on top or below?

Here is what it currently does and below is what I'd like it to do. Ignore the resolutions it was taken from another post about another display.

Currently

Would like

That'd be super useful. I'm not sure how we could accomplish this; does anyone know if it's possible to adjust where the scanning out on the display begins via a custom resolution? Maybe ToastyX would have some ideas.

b1gLoRD · Nov 20, 2020

elvn said:
Don't put any devices on the other hdmi inputs on the AVR.

Is there any reason why you wouldnt be able use/switch to other inputs at same time?

elvn · Nov 20, 2020

b1gLoRD said:
Is there any reason why you wouldnt be able use/switch to other inputs at same time?

https://thenaudio.com/faq/

If you need more inputs I would keep your console (vrr, potentially higher hz this gen) and your PC (vrr, 120hz) on their own hdmi 2.1 inputs, then put less high end and likely not high hz + VRR dependent devices on a hdmi switch on the 3rd hdmi input on the TV... using the TV for switching between the 3 main hdmi port inputs.

AVR pass through usually adds processing and lag anyway. ARC/eARC are supposed to be the modern hdmi method with a configuration available that avoids this ... that is, if LG didn't ship a broken eARC implementation in this year's TV.

El3c · Nov 20, 2020

elvn said:
I'm just going by reviews but the SHARC audio device splits off before the TV and sends one HDMI cable to your (non eARC capable) audio receiver and the other cable to your TV for video. The reviewers have said it works fine with VRR even from an xbox's VRR.

It's not passing audio through the TV at all so idk why it would have any issue from the TV. It's splitting the signal from the GPU itself when running off of a PC.

from a reddit reply:

You can also go into your AVR's settings and disable ARC entirely if it has it since the SHARC uses regular hdmi input and isn't using arc/eARC at all.

You can not get uncompressed HDMI audio formats like dolby TrueHD or dolby Atmos (dolby TrueHD + atmos metadata added) when running toslink/spdif optical. You have to run HDMI for uncompressed audio formats.

Wtf...

I ve never said that i want uncompressed surround Sound and I also dont have or want to buy this sharc box.

I Dont know why you re telling the whole time storries about the box, my solution is toslink, cause it works without spending money into a hdmi splitter.

Tol · Nov 20, 2020

dpoverlord said:
Same issue! No idea how to solve it, which adapter did you get to make it work?

I'm using a Starware DP to HDMI adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WD75HCD . No issues at all with audio anymore. I'm not happy that I overspent by so much on a 2.1 receiver but everything does sound amazing, now.

elvn · Nov 20, 2020

Tol said:
I'm using a Starware DP to HDMI adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WD75HCD . No issues at all with audio anymore. I'm not happy that I overspent by so much on a 2.1 receiver but everything does sound amazing, now.

I paid for the sharc box rather than buying a whole new receiver in my case but the end result will be the TV's eARC out to the add-on "sharc eArc port" on my old receiver.

El3c said:
Wtf...

I ve never said that i want uncompressed surround Sound and I also dont have or want to buy this sharc box.

I Dont know why you re telling the whole time storries about the box, my solution is toslink, cause it works without spending money into a hdmi splitter.

I was replying to user dpoverlord too since he asked a follow up question about how to set up the shARC.....

... but yes, you can just run toslink/spdif optical from your pc to the receiver and avoid the TV. I think my receiver has 2 toslink/spdif optical audio inputs. You could also get a toslink switch if you need to have more inputs. I used to use a cheap manual wheel style one at one point where you would just spin a bar in the middle to whichever input you wanted. I kept it within reach at my chair.

There are more modern toslink switches with a remote like this one for ~ $20 usd, or similar ones from monoprice:
https://www.amazon.com/eSynic-Switcher-Aluminum-Supports-Dolby-AC3/dp/B074W8DG3P/

Toslink isn't good enough for me since this TV is supposed to have eARC for uncompressed hdmi audio. eARC uncompressed hdmi audio without having to resort to fake/phantom monitor tricks is one of the features I looked forward to with upgrading to a hdmi 2.1 display at my pc. There are a bunch of games that support ATMOS sound now and I'll be playing some movies off of my pc via plex with uncomrpessed hdmi audio (7.1 atmos) tracks either viewing full on or while I am more focused on my other monitor(s) in the array.

Uncompressed hdmi audio would normally be the only reason you'd absolutely need to run HDMI audio through the tv ever...
- outside of the easier 1 shot audio source switching at the same time as the video source with the TV's remote ease of use consideration. The optical switch method instead uses the TV remote to switch the video source as normal, and then the audio switch remote to switch the audio source.
However, newer consoles are omitting toslink/spdif optical audio outputs so that creates a problem again since they have to use the TV's toslink output if you want to run toslink to your audio device. You'd be stuck with that unless either someone makes a usb audio dongle for the console (like the astro mixamp / mixamp pro used to do on the older consoles), or if perhaps an existing usb audio device works on newer consoles.

El3c said:
VRR isn´t working when a second hdmi device is attached that doesnt support VRR.

Are you saying that if your (nvidia) gpu has regular 60hz or non-VRR monitors attached at the same time, that VRR won't work on the LG CX? That doesn't sound right at all.

phinix · Nov 20, 2020

hhkb said:
Depends on what you care about. Awesome PQ with great response times? Then yes!

If you prioritize low PC input lag over everything else though, a 240Hz TN panel will likely serve you better. Or if you prefer smaller screens, then it's not going to be great.

PQ is most imporant for me, yes

I never had TN panels, horrible stuff.

Right now I have Philips 40" monitor which is VA and now I want to get best visual experience you can get for PC gaming.

hhkb · Nov 20, 2020

Be careful blindly copying the settings at https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gaming/comments/ixhy39/lg_cx_gamingpc_monitor_recommended_settings/ I've seen mentioned here a few times. Some of the settings are just plain wrong - like setting Black level to Low will crush all your blacks. I'd advise not changing anything from default unless you know what it does.

hhkb · Nov 20, 2020

shadow2761 said:
I understand, but I also tried my LG E6 2016 model game mode and even that looks way brighter and vivid compared to my CX game mode.

I feel like I have not got something set right. Another use on another forum stated that these Oleds usually need 4hrs or so of use to settle in and they will brighten up.

So far I only have about 2 hrs use.

I have both displays. But I only just got my CX and only have 2 hrs use. I still have to work things out on this display before I compare it to my LG 38GL950G.

But the only thing the 38GL950G will definitely win on currently, is the response and smoothness is far superior.

Yeah pretty odd. It might be difficult but I wonder if you can get some comparison photos. I'd also try resetting everything to default if you've copied settings from somewhere and see if that helps. Also are you on chroma 4:4:4?

I didn't notice any brightening up, if anything I cranked the brightness way down from 100 to 20 when I first used it, way too bright out of the box. I have an LG 27" IPS I can try comparing it with to see if I notice anything. Do you have a test image/or game to compare?

dpoverlord · Nov 20, 2020

El3c said:
As i said, it does not work! I ve tried it... But my solution with toslink and realtek Audio Chip works fine.

elvn said:
I paid for the sharc box rather than buying a whole new receiver in my case but the end result will be the TV's eARC out to the add-on "sharc eArc port" on my old receiver.

I was replying to user dpoverlord too since he asked a follow up question about how to set up the shARC.....

... but yes, you can just run toslink/spdif optical from your pc to the receiver and avoid the TV. I think my receiver has 2 toslink/spdif optical audio inputs. You could also get a toslink switch if you need to have more inputs. I used to use a cheap manual wheel style one at one point where you would just spin a bar in the middle to whichever input you wanted. I kept it within reach at my chair.

There are more modern toslink switches with a remote like this one for ~ $20 usd, or similar ones from monoprice:
https://www.amazon.com/eSynic-Switcher-Aluminum-Supports-Dolby-AC3/dp/B074W8DG3P/
View attachment 301306

Toslink isn't good enough for me since this TV is supposed to have eARC for uncompressed hdmi audio. eARC uncompressed hdmi audio without having to resort to fake/phantom monitor tricks is one of the features I looked forward to with upgrading to a hdmi 2.1 display at my pc. There are a bunch of games that support ATMOS sound now and I'll be playing some movies off of my pc via plex with uncomrpessed hdmi audio (7.1 atmos) tracks either viewing full on or while I am more focused on my other monitor(s) in the array.

Uncompressed hdmi audio would normally be the only reason you'd absolutely need to run HDMI audio through the tv ever...
- outside of the easier 1 shot audio source switching at the same time as the video source with the TV's remote ease of use consideration. The optical switch method instead uses the TV remote to switch the video source as normal, and then the audio switch remote to switch the audio source.
However, newer consoles are omitting toslink/spdif optical audio outputs so that creates a problem again since they have to use the TV's toslink output if you want to run toslink to your audio device. You'd be stuck with that unless either someone makes a usb audio dongle for the console (like the astro mixamp / mixamp pro used to do on the older consoles), or if perhaps an existing usb audio device works on newer consoles.

Are you saying that if your (nvidia) gpu has regular 60hz or non-VRR monitors attached at the same time, that VRR won't work on the LG CX? That doesn't sound right at all.

Thanks,

I ordered the higher end Shark and went to Bestbuy and let me throw a curveball. I can get the GX 55" for the same price as the CX. The only difference is Costco gives me the 5 year + 2 year warranty for free and at Bestbuy I have to pay $320.

Does the GX model have all of these firmware updates as well?

If so, I am mounting this to the wall and it could be worth spending $320 more for the GX 55" I love the low profile for my wall.

So that brings me back, TOSLINK is optical so that would do Dolby ATMOS. If I want Dolby Atmos I need to put Audio through HDMI.

I will cross my fingers and wish for the best since this audio lag is killing me. I just dont want to lose my Dolby Atmos, Gsync, low input lag, high refresh rate in the process.

Monstieur · Nov 20, 2020

shadow2761 said:
I understand, but I also tried my LG E6 2016 model game mode and even that looks way brighter and vivid compared to my CX game mode.

The older OLEDs had incorrect Game mode settings and were locked in wide gamut colour, so the image was always oversaturated.

The settings I posted here for HDR (SDR is in the next post) are the only correct settings. That's how the image is supposed to look.
https://hardforum.com/threads/lg-48cx.1991077/page-135#post-1044810911

phinix · Nov 20, 2020

How far do you guys it from the CX48?
I sit 80cm away from my 40"monitor. WOuld sit the same when get CX48, but I'm thinking if I should maybe get CX55 (£200 cheaper)...

Advil · Nov 20, 2020

32" Is very close even for the 48". I doubt you'll like the 55" at all from that close. I had the choice between the 48 and 55 at the same price. It was not a hard choice. The 48 is as big as you want to deal with on a desk.

chimera991 · Nov 20, 2020

Those with the 48cx, what gpu is powering the beast? Currently on a 1080ti. Undecided on 3080 or 6900xt or wait for a 3080ti and try to get lucky.
Getting excited, it will be my work monitor too.

Does the TV come with high end 2.1 hdmi cables or nah?

Advil · Nov 20, 2020

Given a choice? The 3080. It's still substantially better for 4k. DLSS, RT, and GSync have all already proven useful to me on this TV.

The TV does not come with cables. You must provide your own.

netjack · Nov 20, 2020

Scottyl48 said:
asus

FYI - this was the exact monitor I upgraded from. Night and day difference - if you can afford it (both $ and space), do it and then you can send me $$ as a thank you

BTW - I sit about 3.5ft away from the screen and don't have any issues.

Perscitus · Nov 20, 2020

dpoverlord said:
Thanks, Does the GX model have all of these firmware updates as well?

Yes, GXs take the same firmwares.
Pull up the US, Canada or Korea support sites, pull up the firmwares for the CXs to see all supported series (take models with a grain of salt given the regional labeling and confirmed wider update footprint).

dpoverlord · Nov 20, 2020

El3c said:
Sometimes when i boot up my pc, the default settings switches to 1024x768 if i then choose UHD, Windows sets the display to 119.997Hz insteaed of 120Hz. If that happens, VRR is stuck at 120Hz. You can enable the freesync menu while hitting the green button 5 times.

Seems like a Bug on Windows or Nvidias end

Need to figure this setting still. Heading home and will know soon!

BTW: ANYONE Buy the LG GX model?!?

I am having one sent to me to compare and am wondering if LG is updating this firmware as well and if it would be a bit better than the CX for gaming.

Pretty pumped for this one!

I really wanted the GX as it has a slimmer profile and would love that over the CX if it operates better. I assume it's the same panel just a different bezel setup and speaker and I wont use the speaker anyways

MrTX · Nov 20, 2020

PSA don't install the new engineer firmwares 3.22.50
Some users on avs forum are reporting that gsync is broken again with these newer engineer firmwares. Seems that 3.11.10 is the best option for smooth gsync. Best to keep your tv in user mode.

looks like everybody who is on the 3.22.xx engineering versions cannot update to the official release 3.11.30, as its a lower rev version than the engineering releases.
If LG doesn't release a newer version of the official firmware with 3.22.xxx, then you are pretty much stuck with the engineering builds until the official versions go to 3.22.xx.

Original Reddit post: https://www.reddit.com/r/OLED_Gamin...ont_install_the_new_engineer_firmwares_32250/

MistaSparkul · Nov 20, 2020

This guy is right. The CX has it's problems that's for sure, but there is simply NO BETTER ALTERNATIVE out there.

realworld · Nov 21, 2020

chimera991 said:
Those with the 48cx, what gpu is powering the beast? Currently on a 1080ti. Undecided on 3080 or 6900xt or wait for a 3080ti and try to get lucky.
Getting excited, it will be my work monitor too.

Does the TV come with high end 2.1 hdmi cables or nah?

3080ti looks to be the better all-rounder with superior RT and 20GB(?) VRAM at the same price(?). $1000 is a huge waste for something that can’t max out tomorrow’s games like Cyberpunk. Flick RT on and it performs worse/on-par... with a freaking 3070!!!

elvn · Nov 21, 2020

They are expensive but I don't think you'll ever be able to play tomorrow's games at very high fps maxed out on all fronts on the highest resolution screens of the day, especially games with very high graphics ceilings. Every time you think you are going to catch up, the finish line moves. Raw gpu power increases are great and especially DLSS is very promising for gains but RTX/raytracing and upgrading to 4k resolution reduce that again. There are always other things like physx, hairworks, and texture packs or mods you can add too. The graphics ceiling in games is really an arbitrary set point where the devs whittle down complexity to fit "real time" with artificial limitations (especially things like view distance + animated objects and lighting fx viewable in that distance among other things) - so it's easy to scale that up whenever there is stronger hardware. It's hard to show people the better motion clarity and motion definition of high fpsHz in advertisements so gaming usually pushes graphics complexity to the breaking point (now incl raytracing) over highfpsHz's motion clarity(blur reduction) and motion definition/pathing/smoothness. However you can modifiy graphics settings individually or just use a slider in games, you don't have to run on ultra of course. You can also run a screen with a lower resolution than 4k. The overall point is that once you get a gpu that can run "tomorrow's games" - there will be newer "tomorrow's games", resolutions (8k screens, 4k per eye VR, and settings devs had to limit like view distance and other limited features will be increased). Within every gaming gen there are usually a few to several games that won't be able to max their settings (while being able to achieve high fpsHz) for at least another gpu generation.

Personally I'm prob going to prioritize fpsHz over raytracing even with DLSS active on cyberpunk. I'm happy to get 100fpsHz average or better (even if I have to dial some settings in/down), otherwise I'm not getting appreciable gains out of a 120hz+ screen. I don't consider 60fps ~ the shallow end of the fpsHz pool to be "ultra" settings aesthetically so I make cuts or tradeoffs as necessary. I've been able to crush my fps with over the top mods in things like GTAV for years, especially lighting wise. Even with the great sli scaling on that game there is a huge tradeoff for the highest lighting and other mod settings to your fpsHz. RTX/raytracing is very similar in that regard.

Don't forget that you can also play games from the previous gen(s) on a pc with over the top settings (and in some cases mods) you weren't capable of before at high fpsHz. It's one of the stronger points of pc gaming in my opinion. You don't have to wait for a "remake", especially for games within the last 3 - 5 yrs.

That said, the Ti has always been the more sensibly priced gpu with "titan performance". They always released the Titans first though so you had to wait 6months to get the Ti. I waited for the Ti the last two times I upgraded. This time the wait could be way too long for my taste, especially with the problem of scalpers buying out stock to flip gpus.

hhkb · Nov 21, 2020

phinix said:
How far do you guys it from the CX48?
I sit 80cm away from my 40"monitor. WOuld sit the same when get CX48, but I'm thinking if I should maybe get CX55 (£200 cheaper)...

I'm also about 80cm and I think the 55 would be too large at that distance. PPI of the 48 is about as low as you want to go in my opinion for 80cm (same as a 32" 1440p).

hhkb · Nov 21, 2020

I wouldn't wait for the Ti if you can get a 3080 now. It's nearly 2 months now and the 3080 still sells out within 5 minutes of a drop. It took me nearly a month to get one after launch, which included many sleepless nights and time spent setting up distill notifications and so on. The Ti is going to be similarly difficult to get a hold of, for at least 2-3 months after release. Worst case if you win the lottery and get a Ti at launch, you can just resell your 3080 for MSRP. I would not get less than a 3080 though for this screen at 4k. If you wanted to wait a little bit, 6900XT could be very good as well, and will probably have similar performance to the 3080Ti - but will also be difficult to get at launch.

dpoverlord · Nov 21, 2020

Are you guys using HGIG mode? I find it to be much darker for PC usage and games, I have said Dynamic Tone Mapping to On it looks much brighter vs the Dark - Dull look.

Also for the life of me how in the world do you get Overwatch to play with G-sync? It seems to cap the FPS at 60/70
Anyone playing Overwatch and get it to work?

When I set the game to Display based it caps at 70FPS
When I set the Game to VSync on Custom it will go to whatever FPS I desire but it doe snto feel smooth.

2.
Nvidia Control Panel
Change Resolution set to:
PC - 3840 x 2160 @ 120hz

3. Apply Following Settings (EVGA 3090 FTW3)
Desktop Color = 32bit
Output color depth = 10bpc
Output Color Format YCbCr444
Output Dynamic Range = Limited (Weird it's not full)

LG 48CX

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