What Mouse and Keyboard Are You Using Right Now?

This has to be one of the worst keyboards in the world Cherry G81-1800HAU ... the keycaps on this board are absolutely stunning.. however the 'switches' (I'm honestly confused there is a membrane I think..but some mechanical slider thing above it... all in all the experience is quite garbage. I keep this thing becasue it looks cool and every 4~yrs or so I get it out and try typing on it for a day.. and then put it away for another 4yrs...

I entertain the idea of getting a G80-1800 and swapping the keycaps but after 9~yrs that hasn't happened so it "may" not happen at this point... Oh well in all it's Cherry MY glory. Date code suggests it was made in 1994.... so it has sucked for 30yrs now... outstanding.
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edit:: it is also an AT keyboard so the is a AT to PS2 adapter plugged into an active PS2 to USB adapter in order to get this thing to work ... good times.
 
Here is my finished project. RK RK-S87 with Kailh Speed Silver tape modded the PCB, and added painters' tape to the bigger keys. Its thocky and I love it.
Looking nice.

Do you have a pic of a key modded with painters tape? Did you just add a few layers in the hollow space under the keycap?
 
This has to be one of the worst keyboards in the world Cherry G81-1800HAU ... the keycaps on this board are absolutely stunning.. however the 'switches' (I'm honestly confused there is a membrane I think..but some mechanical slider thing above it... all in all the experience is quite garbage. I keep this thing becasue it looks cool and every 4~yrs or so I get it out and try typing on it for a day.. and then put it away for another 4yrs...

I entertain the idea of getting a G80-1800 and swapping the keycaps but after 9~yrs that hasn't happened so it "may" not happen at this point... Oh well in all it's Cherry MY glory. Date code suggests it was made in 1994.... so it has sucked for 30yrs now... outstanding.
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edit:: it is also an AT keyboard so the is a AT to PS2 adapter plugged into an active PS2 to USB adapter in order to get this thing to work ... good times.

I find it amusing that people actually like this color scheme again.

We spent decades from ~late 90's until now complaining about beige and communist grey computer parts and peripheral, and now it is popular again :p


But yeah, if you like them, and they are standard cherry MX caps, swapping them to a better keyboard is trivial and you should do it. It is seemingly rare to fing caps that are both good and an aesthetic one likes.
 
But yeah, if you like them, and they are standard cherry MX caps, swapping them to a better keyboard is trivial and you should do it. It is seemingly rare to fing caps that are both good and an aesthetic one likes.
Sort of yes, but also no .. because the layout of the board (oversized ctrl / alt and undersized right Shift key)... make it so the bottom row and right shift won't really fit anything but another one of these boards... which rather sucks..but it is what it is. Even my idea to get a G80-1800 is problematic because any I have found for sale are newer models (post win 95) that then have the win key layout which these key caps won't work with.
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(notice the additional bottom row keys, and I believe shorter space bar as well.)
 
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You guys are probably gonna hate me. I got these free for doing reviews on them. It's a pain in the ass because I have to charge all of them every 6 month just so the batteries don't become damaged from discharge. One thing I like about the Logitech G305s is that they take a AA battery, so no charging.

I took the original caps off and found some decent XDA profile pudding caps (REALLY hard to find XDA). I'd never use XDA and they are now my favorite cap of all time. They're flat! There is no incline per row, just flat all the way across. They have a small finger tip border so you know you're on the cap, but no other inclination/declination etc, and they are REALLY low profile. If you haven't tried XDA profile, you should at least give them a try.

A partial lising of the parts below:

Mistel X-VIII Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Brown Switch​

NACODEX AK873 TKL
HEXGEARS X3 TKL
HEXGEARS X1 Pro 60%
NACODEX K870T Pro
Akko Black&Gold 3098 Akko CS Jelly White Linear Switch
Ajazz K870T
Akko, Cherry, Gateron etc switches (about 300+)
2 sets of HyperX pudding keycaps (They don't come in XDA of for smaller boards, just standard key layout), and about enough other brands of keycaps to do all of the boards below twice.
MICE:
x2 ROCCAT Kone XP Air.
x1 ROCCAT Kone Pro Air
x2 Logitech G305


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Out of all of them, I only use the NACODEX AK816Pro 75% Gasket Mount Keyboard and the ROCCAT Kone XP Air mouse. I have some really nice Akko white jelly linears, but the the Gaterons that it came with are boxed, and are pretty nice, so I just kept them.
What's that full size in the picture? What's your opinion on it when compared to the M, et al buckling springs?
 
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I did some more searching, and found a keyboard I think I like. It's called "Code"

http://codekeyboards.com/

They have the LED's on top of the switches like I like, come in basic black, with simple backlighting that shines mostly (only?) through their doubleshot keycaps, and have green switches.

I might buy one. Or five.


Of course the one I want is like $200....

....and is out of stock.


I wonder if it is yet another one of those "permanently out of stock" keyboards, like all the green switch ones on mechanicalkeyboards.com
I have a code that I got from someone somewhere used with blues and was terribly unimpressed--so much so that I basically just put it away after trying it and never used it again--and that's rare for me.
 
I have a code that I got from someone somewhere used with blues and was terribly unimpressed--so much so that I basically just put it away after trying it and never used it again--and that's rare for me.

Everyone has different preferences, but I am absolutely loving mine.

I went for the anodized aluminum case and the MX Green Switches though, so it probably feels rather different than the ABS case with MX blues.
 
I upgraded my MX Master 3 to the Master 3S for only £1 recently, which was nice.

MX Keys and Master 3S for productivity.
Endgame XM2we for gaming.

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The funny thing is because Logitech don't backwards support unifying on the Bolt dongle, you also need the unifying dongle for non-Bolt devices. And the XM2we has its own high speed dongle of course. So my front ports are... chock full.

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I always stick dongles in the back, on a small hub if possible as it leaves the fronts still free.
 
Looking nice.

Do you have a pic of a key modded with painters tape? Did you just add a few layers in the hollow space under the keycap?
Yeah, just a single layer is enough. I actually ended up doing it on all my modifier keys. It cuts a lot of that pinginess you get with cheap stabilizers.
 

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I'm the absolute opposite.

Wired for life.

Wired is always superior. Performs better, more reliable, higher quality, more secure.

It doesn't matter what it is. Keyboard, mouse, audio, network connectivity, you name it. If it is wireless it is a compromise, and I absolutely refuse to have compromises in my tech.

I don't even understand the appeal of wireless, when wires are simple and just work without complexities or compromises.

I am an engineers engineer. There is a principle they teach you in engineering school. The simplest solution is always the best solution. Mind you, they don't mean the simplest user interface or the easiest to use. They mean the least conplex solution from an engineering perspective. Fewest parts, least electronics, fewest lines of code, smallest storage, etc. And everything about wireless tech violates this.

I don't use Bluetooth at all. I minimize my use of wifi to only devices that absolutely have to be mobile. If it sits in one place, it gets a copper or fiber network cable run to it. And there isn't a single wireless mouse or keyboard in the house.

Like, I am surprisingly passionate about this and will die on this hill. Absolutely nothing could convince me to change. I am completely and universally anti anything and everything wireless to the core.
Tell us how you really feel, lol. :D I'm pretty much right there with you, except the sound quality from our original UE Boom did curb my distaste for bt sound.
 
I just received my anodized black aluminum WASD Keyboards Core V3 with MX Green Switches. (please ignore the shitty desk pad. It's been beaten up by working on too many sheet metal cases on top of it :p )

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I haven't used it yet, as the metal case is COLD from being outside in the New England winter during transit. I am going to let it warm up first.

I will say this though. This keyboard is hefty, and it exudes a very high sense of quality that does not come across well in pictures. From that perspective I am definitely a fan. Like with Model M's of old, you could definitely defend your home with this thing in a pinch.

The black metal surface is matte and textured which is nice.

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Stock keycaps are supposedly ABS, but they feel better than typical ABS keycaps. If I had been asked I would have guessed they were PBT. Let's see how well they wear over time. Keycaps are easy and relatively cheap to replace though, so I am not concerned.

The LED's are the variety I like, that sit on too of the switch, not underneath on the board, so they should maximize shine through the caps while minimizing underglow, just as I like it.

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Only thing I don't like is that there are no raisable feet on the bottom, which might be difficult for me to get used to. I almost always use keyboarda at their medium raised setting to give me a better angle for my fingers.

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I am told by people who know more about ergonomics that this is supposedly better for my hands, but I don't know. I think there is some person to person variability here. I have been typing WAY more than your average person for the last 35 years of my life, and have no carpal tunnel issues yet (knock on anodized black aluminum.) I have rather large hands, so I wonder if that is a factor, impacting the angles involved somehow.

I suppose I could always stick a couple of adhesive backed feet on the back to raise it a little bit, if I find I can't get used to it.

While I haven't done any real typing yet as it is way too cold (I don't want to risk condensation while it is powered on), just testing the keys, the sound is similar in volume and tone as on the plastic (ABS?) OG Ducky with the same switches, but sounds a little bit more "composed" on this much stiffer board.

Thus far I really like it, but I am a little worried about the lack of a raising mechanism. Time will tell if that becomes an issue.


A funny side effect of the textured surface is that my dry New England winter hands rub off what our African American friends would call "ashyness" onto the surface of the board when I touch it, which is evident in some of those pics :p At least it seems to wipe off rather easily.


As closing words I have to just reiterate that the pictures just don't do this thing justice. It just sits there and looks like some sort of fallen monolith on its side, exuding "Quality".

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I don't know if it is because it is new and fresh, or if it is because I like the surface texture, or if it is because the machined metal gives you tighter toleranced straighter lines than any molded plastic ever could, or maybe a combination of the above, but it is difficult to describe.

Some might call the look basic, but I tend to call it understated, and classic, and that's how I like things:

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Let's see if that holds up as it wears and gets dusty and dirty :p

That's right there is going to be what determines if this purchase was "worth it" or "an expensive mistake". Time will tell.
Thank you for the details! I actually would like this exact board (as it seems we have similar tastes in boards, et al), but the lack of feet is a showstopper for me. I know for fact that the 'experts' on ergonomics are no way better than what your own hands will tell you from just long use sessions. I've been Model M on the highest foot level since 1989 and it's what my hands swear by for speed and lack of pain. And yet, I still look for an elusive holier than holy grail as an alternative or just to change things up. I will look forward to your thoughts after some extended use. :)
 
Bit of a blast from the past.. starting some work that seems like having a numpad would be good for... So out from it box is the WASD V1 mx-browns ... been a long time since I have used this board... it is actually still pretty good... if you don't care about backlights and function layers or whatever it is what it is... a big ol' fullsize keyboard. This was the very first mechanical keyboard I ever owned... I was very excited about receiving it as a gift in 2011.
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So cool to see this and the newest version of the code in the same thread. :)
 
I'm with you. I can't for the life of me understand the TKL and smaller craze.

For me it's full IBM Enhanced layout or nothing.
I take that full size thing to an even weirder level--it's 101 for me or nothing--I end up using the 'gaming mode' on most 104s to disable the windows keys that get in my way.
 
I will tell you, and just reaffirmed by digging my fullsize keyboard out of it's box to switch things up (mx switch pun?.. you decide). For myself and my own use a TKL is basically the perfect layout as I have all the keys except num pad... which is fine as the amount of time I spend doing numeric entry is pretty limited.. and I am left handed so honestly (and confirmed by using this full-size board again) having a separate numpad I can move to the left side of my keyboard is way better for me anyway.

The advantage is much less arm strain by having mouse moved closer to the left hand (I generally mouse right handed but will also switch to left sometimes... making having a smaller keyboard a great thing as I have room on my deskpad for mousing left or right?

Anyways, I don't like even smaller formats (although 75% would probably be fine) .. I have a GMK67 I built because it was cheap (under $60 all in) and I do not mind it too much but the F keys and Print screen requiring the use of function layer gets on my nerves.) anything smaller than the GMK67 would be a nonstarter... I probably will just stick with TKL in the future.

This is how my desk is generally configured (just much messier most of the time).
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I like the lefty trackball you have here--Elecom?
 
I definitely need a palm rest. Part of the issue which may be due to the screen placement, but I sit lower than I could so my elbows are below the keyboard which results in my arms resting against the edge of the desk rather than slightly raised with the palm rest attached to the G15 and G510s.
I do the same (sitting lower), but instead have my entire arms including elbows on the table so that my wrist stays straight even when my palm is practically resting on the keyboard. Bonus is that a large 30" monitor is far enough away from my head that my neck doesn't have to move around (just my eyes), and that between my arms, I can put all the work lists paperwork, etc that I need to get stuff done.
 
so this pbt double shot keycap set was 50% off on amazon ($19.99) so I decided to try it (yes it is a blue samurai clone set or whatever...I wasn't going to pay $120~ for the Drop + RedSuns GMK set.) The keycaps seem to be pretty well made are resonably thick and feel / sound good at first impression. I am trying to decide how I feel about the colors however.. and also debating swapping some of the modifiers with provided (mustard?) colored keycaps..

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I think it looks perfect as is, especially with the blue from the mixer. :)
 
I take that full size thing to an even weirder level--it's 101 for me or nothing--I end up using the 'gaming mode' on most 104s to disable the windows keys that get in my way.

I use very unusual keyboard binds for games, so most of the time the windows keys don't get in the way for me. In the rare game where I need to bind something near the windows key, I have in the passed edited the registry to move keys around so that the Windows key does not cause any problems.

One thing I really like about my CODE is that the default setting (if you keep V2 firmware ) is that scroll lock has been remapped. Instead of traditional scroll lock, when pressed it turns the Windows keys on and off. So you can press it before starting a game, and then press it again after leaving the game to have windows key functionality back.

This is great, because (as long as I don't forget to press scroll lock) I never have to worry about accidental Windows key presses kicking me out of a game, but I can still use it for launching programs. (And I use it all the time for this, Win-key start typing search, hit enter. it's the fastest way to launch almost anything.
 
So, I know I had previously said I wasn't super thrilled with the Dolch color scheme as the dark keys weren't really black....

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So I went ahead and ordered a set of black keys from the same keycap vendor, figuring I'd just replace the dark keys and escape in the Dolch configuration with the ones from the black set.

I was convinced I would like this much better. Well, I didn't.


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I actually have to admit that the people who do this shit professionally actually got it better than I did :p

It just looks flat, cold and dull somehow, compared to the relative warmth of the Dolch combination. (first world problems, I know...)

I decided to give myself a week to get used to it, and see if I still liked the original Dolch look better, and a week later I still do, so I think I will be switching back.


Also, every time I switch keycaps it surprises me how long it actually takes :p
 
What is that badass big block of a case in the background to the left?!?! I love it!!
that is my old Yeong Yang YY-0221 cube case that I bought back in 2003 or so. I traded it to my brother back in 2009 or 2010, and it got traded a few more times to other people over the years.
One day in 2016 I was at a friends house buying a dual xeon workstation from him and he mentioned he had acquired my old cube case. I told him that I wouldn't mind having it again as I really liked it.
The following year he called me up and asked if I still wanted it, told him yes, and asked how much, he said I could just have it.

I ordered some ICYDock 5in3 cages and moved my Plex Server into it a few years ago.
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Thank you for the details! I actually would like this exact board (as it seems we have similar tastes in boards, et al), but the lack of feet is a showstopper for me. I know for fact that the 'experts' on ergonomics are no way better than what your own hands will tell you from just long use sessions. I've been Model M on the highest foot level since 1989 and it's what my hands swear by for speed and lack of pain. And yet, I still look for an elusive holier than holy grail as an alternative or just to change things up. I will look forward to your thoughts after some extended use. :)

I think it would be totally possible to DIY some elevated feet on the back. I was going to do this, but it turns out I adapted to the angle much more easily than I thought I would.

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Heck, those four screw holes near the top/back look like good candidates. Get a multi-sized screw on rubber foot kit, and pick the size that works the best. They usually come with wood screws. Obviously don't use those. Find screws with the same thread size as the keyboard comes with, but longer (make sure they have a large enough head to catch in the feet, or get a bunch of small washers), and screw them into those holes.

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The feet would have to be rather narrow and tall, or they would stick off the sides and be weird, but I think with some searching this is totally doable.

Had I not found that I adapted to the angle much faster than I anticipated, I totally would have gone down this path. Might take a little hunting to find small enough feet (most I can find are too large, but I think it would totally be possible.

(there are plenty to stick on ones that are smaller, but I'd be concerned about them constantly coming off, with something this heavy that sees this much movement. This might even be an opportunity to 3D print something custom that will fit well)

Sometimes when no one makes what you want, you just have to get a little creative and make it happen yourself :p
 
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My desk from 2002 when I was in College... I used them MS Ergo keyboards for quite awhile basically the whole 2000s I guess. That Zip drive on top of my P3 1Ghz.. school used these stupid things so I had a few at home, man they sucked.. The Compaq on the floor my parents gave me it was a K6II 400 w/ 128MB of ram and it came w/ a 4GB hard drive .. I must have gotten rid of it entirely shortly after this photo... it was running Redhat as I recall at the time of this photo.
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(yes my cable management has always been fairly crap..)
 
So I've been converted to the wireless mouse cult with my Superlight 2 but my girl bought me the Deathadder V3 Pro as a valentines day present and I think I like it better. I switch back and forth a lot between mice but I think the DAv3 may be the best feeling shape I've ever used, and I've owned all the previous versions of the DA dating back to the 3.5G in 2008.

I think this will be my main mouse for a while.
 
My G502 Proteus Core started having click issues, so I got a G502 X Plus that was on sale for $100 locally (no way I was spending $170 on a mouse). Have to say, the mechanical switches are really nice on this one, and the sensor seems a lot smoother than the Proteus Core ever was. I'm just not thrilled with the light weight. I prefer the weight of the Proteus Core with all the additional weights installed, which totaled 176g. The G502 X Plus only weighs 106g, which is a big change that is taking some getting used to. The shape is greatly improved for a palm gamer, though, but nothing will ever beat the Intellimouse 3.0 from that ergonomics standpoint.
 
Desk.jpg

Still the IBM Model F AT I posted years back. Just now in its original white case. The caps are mostly from a contemporaneous Model M with certain keys remapped to update it to a more modern layout. Though the left bank of navigation keys is extrapolated from what a Beam Spring era terminal format would look like in a Model M form. Best I could determine.

I did leave the original enter key and some others as I thought those key to the board's character.
Model F - Black.jpg
 
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Still the IBM Model F AT I posted years back. Just now in its original white case. The caps are mostly from a contemporaneous Model M with certain keys remapped to update it to a more modern layout. Though the left bank of navigation keys is extrapolated from what a Beam Spring era terminal format would look like in a Model M form. Best I could determine.

I did leave the original enter key and some others as I thought those key to the board's character.
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I've always wanted a Model F but never got around to making it happen. I'd still like one some day...
 
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Still the IBM Model F AT I posted years back. Just now in its original white case. The caps are mostly from a contemporaneous Model M with certain keys remapped to update it to a more modern layout. Though the left bank of navigation keys is extrapolated from what a Beam Spring era terminal format would look like in a Model M form. Best I could determine.

I did leave the original enter key and some others as I thought those key to the board's character.
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Rotary dial telephone! Niiiiiice!
 
I have done the worst thing ... I kept using this *** **** Cherry G81-1800HAU (Cherrry MY) board for about 2~ weeks now... and now I like this stupid keyboard..

hear me out I am pretty strong and I have always typed way to hard, so the super stiff springs on this keyboard kinda work as I haven't been bottoming out like I am trying to drive the switch thru the back of the keyboard like I usually do.. I'm better at video games using this than my MX boards (??) and also set personal best on typing test using this ridiculous piece of junk.... Figures... I would end up liking the worst keyboard in the world (hyperbole alert). oh well... the layout of these G81's is absolutely brilliant, I quite like the layout.. I may get a G80 as they have mx-blacks which may be "right" for me as they have a similarly super stiff spring as I understand it?


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This is my mouse

MSI Clutch GM20 Elite Gaming... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LG4LKKQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Feels amazing in my hands. Nice n wide and has the perfect weight to it. Fantastic for FPS games to boom headshot lol I have 3 of these one for each rig and another spare I LOVE this mouse. No other mouse contours my hand like this mouse does.

This is my keyboard

SteelSeries Apex 3 TKL RGB Gaming... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FTNMT84?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It's a mini 10 keyless again for more mouse space to swipe long slow tracking for boom headshot 🤪
I have 2 of these one for each rig. It is VERY QUIET highly recommend I can't stand any clicking noise and this keyboard is nearly silent if not completely silent. Would buy again.
 
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This is my mouse

MSI Clutch GM20 Elite Gaming... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LG4LKKQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Feels amazing in my hands. Nice n wide and has the perfect weight to it. Fantastic for FPS games to boom headshot lol I have 3 of these one for each rig and another spare I LOVE this mouse. No other mouse contours my hand like this mouse does.

This is my keyboard

SteelSeries Apex 3 TKL RGB Gaming... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FTNMT84?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It's a mini 10 keyless again for more mouse space to swipe long slow tracking for boom headshot 🤪
I have 2 of these one for each rig. It is VERY QUIET highly recommend I can't stand any clicking noise and this keyboard is nearly silent if not completely silent. Would buy again.
I need a new mouse and have always used Logi. Would that mouse work well for large hands?
 
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I need a new mouse and have always used Logi. Would that mouse work well for large hands?
Funny you ask. It's literally the only mouse that feels good in my large hands. I'm not even that big of a guy 5'¹⁰” 170lbs but my hands are not smallish or even considered medium. I was able to palm a basketball and dunk in my Junior year of high school lol.

So yeah that's why I love this mouse. It's the perfect size and shape especially the wide and contour of the sides. All the Logitech and Razer mice feel like ass compared to this one (I've tried a half dozen all the popular Logitech and Razer mice all felt horrible and cramped my hands), and to top it off it's very low priced in the 30-40 range. Get it while you can I feel like the supply is limited. Also to top it off the RGB Dragon logo is so sweet. Or I should say get one before I buy them all haha it's the last mouse I'll ever use.
 
That looks like a carbon copy of the original Logitech G502 Proteus Core....

....at least if I had to draw one from memory.
Oh no I assure you it's not. The G502 is narrower and cramps your hand. I had a G502 and I very much disliked it for its narrow width and lighter weight.
This MSI Clutch GM20 feels so premium in comparison. It's a hidden gem. Makes the razor death adder feel bad also in comparison.
 
Ducky One 3 SF and logitech MX Ergo Plus.

Pretty killer combo. Wish the keyboard was wireless, but it's fine.
 
The evolution of my keyboard continues.

I tried a POM plate and didn't like it at all so now I'm rocking a brass plate. Initial switches were Gateron Pro 3.0 Red followed by a set of Gateron Baby Kangaroo 2.0.

After getting two switch testers plus a few more switches for a total of 75 different switches I quickly narrowed down to the switches I received today Kailh Box Summer. The sound is awesome and they are fantastic to type on. They are way more noisy than say Kail Box Navy but nowhere near as heavy. I also tried a Clickez 40g but too heavy to type on and not as pleasing sound as the Box Summers.

Here is an action shot during the install.

Next week I should get some nice retro SA profile keycaps to try out, it will be very interesting to see how they will feel to type on, and if they will enhance the sound even further.

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I want to try a wireless mouse to see how it compares to my favorite wired mouse.

Razer Basilisk Ultimate HyperSpeed Wireless Gaming Mouse: Fastest Gaming Mouse Switch - 20K DPI Optical Sensor - Chroma RGB Lighting - 11 Programmable Buttons - 100 Hr Battery - Classic Black https://a.co/d/gaYkkgS

I made sure to buy it from Amazon because there is a strong chance I will return it. It will be a small miracle if I like it, let's see.

Anyone have a Razor Basilisk Ultimate? It's a hundred bucks for that price it better be as my wired MSI mouse is under 40.
 
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