Teh Uber L33t Aqua-Computer Thread :)

[BitchBreaker]

What can i say? We try

 

[Captin Insano]

First AC WC box completed and I'm already thinking about the next one with those blocks ... (addict??!??!)

Some comments ....

- The Lian-Li V1000 is really TO SMALL cable management with 2 ide drives, NO floppy, front panel sound usb firewire, fan, fan and more fan ... its hell ... I had to scrap my loop a couple of times ... put extra fittings that I didn't want.

- Blue light mod with aquajet in the aquatube is really worth it ... its incredible.

- Silence is golden BUT I need a fan controler .... can anyone suggest something that would look good in a v1000?? Just need some knobs (blue led would be nice) .... please no aquaero .... my wallet is allready hating me

Will of course put some pictures up as soon as i put them in my webgallery.

Thanks everyone for your post .... search is my friend.

If your looking for a fan controller thats simple and really good. I have a recomendation. Just 4 knobs and they come with blue backlit knobs. That would be the Vantec Nexus.
Ive used one and love it. Had it for some time now. One of the few controllers that will controll BIG amp fans like my 3 delta's that do 148cfm each all the way down to 5v and they stay running. here is a link.

http://www.svc.com/nexfancon.html


The Cpt.

 

[sparky1_2007]

bump 4 the ub3r 1337 thread

 

[Nobody]

This is probably a true Noobie question but haven't seen anything anywhere in English that answers this question so:

I am in the middle of scoping out my watercooling system and I have a question which generates better cooling the EVO120 or the EVO 160. Both should be considered installed with Push/Pull fans.

 

[[S]nt|Mods]

The cooling performance is going to be slightly based on the performance of yours fans. The 120mm fans usually net 50-80 cfm for the more quiet ones and 120 for noisy little suckers.

80mm fans on the other hand are going to allow 25 cfm or so at a silent setting for each fan. 35 cfm @ about a slightly noisy sound level will only be louder when having a second noisy source.

I always prefer 120mm fans and radiators to keep the noise down and airflow high enough for sufficient cooling. It depends on where you plan to mount the radiator as well. If you have the room the 120 is the better choice. If you have a Lian Li case with 80mm fan locations up front or in back, it will fit length wise.

-Dan

 

[Nobody]

I was planning to use an Aluminum Chieftec Dragon case. I can Mod the front to accept a single 120 or Mod it to accept the dual 80. It sounds like the 120 it is then ...

Thanks Dan,

FYI you'll see the order for this part today.

 

[Pooky]

I was planning to use an Aluminum Chieftec Dragon case. I can Mod the front to accept a single 120 or Mod it to accept the dual 80. It sounds like the 120 it is then ...

Thanks Dan,

FYI you'll see the order for this part today.

The front will easily accept a 120. You could even browse the SNT images gallery for one of Dans rigs where he used the same case and put the radiator (a dual Black Ice Pro) on the side next to the case panel

 

[Nobody]

Unfortunately one of the first MODS for the Case is to flip the motherboard tray and back panel over. This puts the Cross brace in the way of having a 120 mounted into the Side panel, But I can still mod a single 120 into the front.

 

[SignalSoldier]

Auquatube question?

Bleeding and feeding via the aquatube. How is that working out for anybody. Any photos out there on how its done.

Seems to be better mounting it on the dorsal side rather than a drive bay.

 

[stumpy]

Auquatube question?

Bleeding and feeding via the aquatube. How is that working out for anybody. Any photos out there on how its done.

Seems to be better mounting it on the dorsal side rather than a drive bay.

I just held it up, filled it with water and cycled the pump through a couple times while adding water... I'd recommend putting the cover on (at least partially) because once it gets full , water will be bubbling around etc.... and if you have the aquajet you'll have a full on spray upwards..sending water everywhere if you don't have the cover on.

 

[Captin Insano]

Auquatube question?

Bleeding and feeding via the aquatube. How is that working out for anybody. Any photos out there on how its done.

Seems to be better mounting it on the dorsal side rather than a drive bay.

Heck I have even a 1/2 inch moded Aquatube with the Aquazilla and it makes way easy for bleeding and filling. Unfortunatly I dont have any pics of the procedure. Cuts my fill bleed time to less then an hour or 2.

 

[BitchBreaker]

Does any one here have a stock hsf setup for a BBATI 9800xt they will let me borrow to rma my card? ill send the new stock one back when i get the card back from rma...pweeeeez.

 

[Top Nurse]

New Question:

Is there a 6mm x 8mm compression fitting available with a 1/4 BSPT on the back? How much and how fast? This is not a Plug & Cool and I don't want a 1/8 thread unless you can talk me in to it from a flow point of view vs a 1/4 BSPT.

BTW, I was noticing all the customs and shipping problems you have been having. Why don't you have a customs broker just take care of it for you?

 

[Top Nurse]

Continued from Water Cooling post:

Are you guys using pulse width modulation (PWM) to turn the Aquastream pump on-off-on? Thus are you just increasing the on-off time? So you are natively running the pump at a PWM factor of 47 Hz and increasing the PWM to 70 Hz correct? If your only increasing the PWM about 33% how does this double the output to 1048 rates?

So with the Aquaero having the ability to "program" the pump, does the pump then have an EPROM or flash memory device in it?

If I hook the flow sensor to the loop can I then program the Aquaero to maintain a rate of "X" flow through the Aquastream and it will maintain that flow without intervention on my part through the interface?

Are the VFD Aquaero's being sold in the USA revison 4 hardware?
Are the Aquastream's being sold in the USA revision 3 hardware?

 

[[S]nt|Mods]

Continued from Water Cooling post:

Are you guys using pulse width modulation (PWM) to turn the Aquastream pump on-off-on? Thus are you just increasing the on-off time? So you are natively running the pump at a PWM factor of 47 Hz and increasing the PWM to 70 Hz correct? If your only increasing the PWM about 33% how does this double the output to 1048 rates?

So with the Aquaero having the ability to "program" the pump, does the pump then have an EPROM or flash memory device in it?

If I hook the flow sensor to the loop can I then program the Aquaero to maintain a rate of "X" flow through the Aquastream and it will maintain that flow without intervention on my part through the interface?

Are the VFD Aquaero's being sold in the USA revison 4 hardware?
Are the Aquastream's being sold in the USA revision 3 hardware?

First off, I do not have all the technical data available on the Aquastream, I only go by what is provided to me and through my own experience. From the data available from my own Aquaero, my flow sensor is programmed to read the flow at 69 pulses a second. This displays 5.0 liter/min (if flow is kept constant from the pump), at the pump's setting of 47Hz, which is the equivilent flow rate of an Eheim 1046 (300 liter/hour). When changing the frequency to 70 the flow rate increases to 7.2 liter/min (432 liter/hour).

From what info I have been given from AC, and what I relay on to my customers, is that the pressure of the pump is increased to that of the 1048. From what you can see the flow rate is increased but I do not have any way of easily measuring head output.

The flow sensor does nothing more than measure output and list that information to the Aquaero purely for visual use. Even if the flow sensor didnt exist, the Aquastream would still maintain the correct flow rate for whatever frequency you are running.

The Aquastream does contain an EEPROM to save all data to.

Aqua-Computer only ships me the latest hardware available, I only assume that I receive the latest revision of the Aquaero. When I do purchase the Aquastream however, I can specify which one to order and I always get the Rev. 3.

New Question:

Is there a 6mm x 8mm compression fitting available with a 1/4 BSPT on the back? How much and how fast? This is not a Plug & Cool and I don't want a 1/8 thread unless you can talk me in to it from a flow point of view vs a 1/4 BSPT.

BTW, I was noticing all the customs and shipping problems you have been having. Why don't you have a customs broker just take care of it for you?

I dont deal in threads other than metric (G1/4", G1/8" and the like) so I cant help you there.

There are no shipping troubles anymore since switching over to DHL. Airmail and UPS both created a lot of problems and each had their own brokerage departments. DHL does there job so very well.

-Dan

 

[Shoggy]

From the data available from my own Aquaero, my flow sensor is programmed to read the flow at 69 pulses a second. This displays 5.0 liter/min (if flow is kept constant from the pump), at the pump's setting of 47Hz, which is the equivilent flow rate of an Eheim 1046 (300 liter/hour). When changing the frequency to 70 the flow rate increases to 7.2 liter/min (432 liter/hour).

What are you doing

If you mean the flow sensor shipped by ac the correct value is 509 pulses. At the standard frequency of 47hz it will give you a flow rate around 0.5 to 0.8 liter/min (30 to 48 liter/hour). Your 5.0 or 7.2 liter/min are absolute impossible - it would be the eighth wonder of the world
300 liter/hour is only reachable when the pump runs without any resistance. It's more or less a marketing trick by eheim...

 

[Sib]

I do not believe the Aquaero uses the actual flow, it just uses the "ideal" number that it could be running at. If you want the real flow then you have to add in the flow meter to the Aquaero, but that would restrict the loop a little more.

 

[[S]nt|Mods]

What are you doing

If you mean the flow sensor shipped by ac the correct value is 509 pulses. At the standard frequency of 47hz it will give you a flow rate around 0.5 to 0.8 liter/min (30 to 48 liter/hour). Your 5.0 or 7.2 liter/min are absolute impossible - it would be the eighth wonder of the world
300 liter/min is only reachable when the pump runs without any resistance. It's more or less a marketing trick by eheim...

This is the reason why I do the above.

The Eheim 1046 is advertised/rated at 300 liter/hour (5 liter/minute), not 300 liter/minute. I also used

(if flow is kept constant from the pump)

as just a base assumption for my work.

I was just sick of looking at what I assummed is way off. This way is just a theoretical display of flow.

-Dan

 

[Shoggy]

Ahhh, OK. Thought you were talking about a real setup.

And yes, 300 liter per hour

 

[[S]nt|Mods]

Ahhh, OK. Thought you were talking about a real setup.

And yes, 300 liter per hour

Thanks for hanging around here and digging deeper into some of my comments. I tend to do things quite a bit different than most so people dont always understand me.

-Dan

 

[Top Nurse]

I tend to do things quite a bit different than most so people dont always understand me.

Isn't that what Jack the Ripper and Charlie Manson was won't to say ROFL...

I was just trying to digest the previous subject matter that went a bit over my head. Am I correct in assuming that it doesn't matter how many GPH or LPH your pump will pump in a closed circuit? I gather that you can only push so much fluids through the circuit and then the pump slows down to the resistance it gets? In the medical field we call this pre-load and after-load in relation to the pump. In a biological system it is possible to blow off fluids into the third space (between cells) but since this is not possible in a mechanical system the whole thing just slows down, right?

IOW, I gather my idea to use the Eheim 1046 or Aquastream on a modified 3/8 to 1/4 multi-loop may have good merits over a straight 1/4 loop? I am interested to hear from others who can actually measure the flow rates on typical DIY systems to see if tubing size makes an appreciable difference in flow.

One of the reasons I want a system for temp and flow sensing is so I can accurately measure the difference in tubing and block size on a given computer. My hypothesis is that there won't be a big difference between a 1/4 to 1/2 system IF the equipment used is compatible or optimized for the tubing size used.

 

[mohammedtaha]

Even though I have no past watercooling experience. I do believe that up to a certain point the higher the gph the better the cooling but once you go to a certain point you're increasing resistance which leads to heat. I believe around 700gph or so ..

I'm getting a mag3 and I believe that should be good enough.

For example ...

Higher cfm fans can cool but once you blow sooo much air, don't know exactly how much, then there is no heat transfer and friction between the air and the metal will cause heat !!

 

[ikellensbro]

I posted in the community ghetto project thread about what Im planning to do, but I need some sctually input from people about what I want to do foras little money as possible:
Waterblock: this or what this guy made, I need help on size/how to mount it on my old socket A K7S5A mobo - no idea yet, suggestions needed
Tubing: dont know, some 1/2 inch thats cheaper than Clearflex
Pump: thinking of a Via Aqua 1300, don't know if I want to have it submerged or inline yet - $20
Heatercore & shrouds: '77 Bonnevette or '86 Chevette, using these fan shrouds, which conveniantly fit an '86 Chevette HC perfectly - $20
Fans: some cheapo 120mms, or old 80mms - $0-$15
Clamps, Barbs, other stuff - $10-20
total: hopefully under $100
Any comments/help on choosing waterblock design?

 

[Top Nurse]

I posted in the community ghetto project thread about what Im planning to do, but I need some sctually input from people about what I want to do foras little money as possible.

Hmmm....I think you chose the wrong thread to post in as AC stuff is definitely BMW class gear, both in price as well as performance. However, a nice addition would be a visual reporting system called an Aquaero ($400 USD with extras) to set off the ghetto look with a touch of class and functionality.

 

[Shoggy]

Got three screenshots of the upcoming aquasuite for aquaero



The new version can save the data to an access databse in an user-defined interval. That function can be used to import the data to other programs.
This new version also contains the "aquaero server" which can send and receive data via network-connections (socket-connection). Would be interesting for remote control or for own programs too.

It will be possible to change the arrangement of the windows. Single windows can be dragged and dropped to the desktop like a toolbox - whatever that means...

The bad: aquasuite is postponed again. New date is around easter.

I like it. It's much more clearer than the old version.

 

[topcat989]

hey Dan, what's the latest word on stuff coming in? just curious

 

[Top Nurse]

Thanks Shoggy for the software development news. Push those guys to get with the program <pun intended>. Looks good...I can see that AC is going to roll over Innovatek. Have to change my website

 

[SignalSoldier]

hey Dan, what's the latest word on stuff coming in? just curious

Man my trigger finger is itchy mate. Please say there is good news

 

[SelRahc]

Yeay, I finally got Project Stackers completed! For my first water-cooled project, I learned alot!

The 3 silver blocks look sweet as heck.

Final pics and thoughts can be found around here.

Few minor things I need to have dan help me fix, but other than that I guess im happy.

I ran Seti and UT2K4 at the same time for 2 hours. Here are my temps after that:

Water Temp: 25.1c
Internal Ambiant: 22.2c (sensor in airflow entering rad)

Flow rate is slow in this loop. The water coming through the aquajet is a good pace, but I expected alot more. Dan said once I get the aquaero and pc talking I can OC the pump some though. That should speed things up.

Are the silver blocks doing their job? I dont know whats good and whats not. Anyone?

 

[[S]nt|Mods]

Hey Sel, sorry for not being available the past few days. What did you need help with? I have my phone available again if you need to give me another ring.

-Dan

 

[CRXican]

A litlte OT but damn that OCZ PSU is sexy!!!

 

[Sib]

Yeay, I finally got Project Stackers completed! For my first water-cooled project, I learned alot!

The 3 silver blocks look sweet as heck.

No fair your CM Stacker looks prettier then mine.

 

[maverick72]

Quick questions for people using Aquagrafx rev2 on a 6800gt ... Are you people using Artic Silver for the ram chip or just the GPU????

I have installed my second 6800GT (I completly fucked up the first one) and guess what? I also fucked it up .... well i'm not sure since I never got to test the board without the AC block. Luckly the store took back the card but now i'm scrared shit of putting that card on the block. There must be something i'm doing wrong.

The first one I bent the card from screwing it to hard. But not the second one. The only guess is that I was using the Artic Silver on the ram chip .... I know the contact was good but what else?? With the Asus card when you remove the HSF they are little pieces of what looks like thermal paste in square form ... should I just leave those to protect the chips?

Thanks.

 

[Top Nurse]

The first one I bent the card from screwing it to hard. But not the second one. The only guess is that I was using the Artic Silver on the ram chip .... I know the contact was good but what else?? With the Asus card when you remove the HSF they are little pieces of what looks like thermal paste in square form ... should I just leave those to protect the chips?

Still bagging rays in Florida, but thought I might mention that ASUS cards seem to have a "situation" with their GPU's. I think the square hunk of thermal interface material (TIM) is being used to lift the heatsink off the die so as not to allow the heatsink to come in contact with the individual components scattered around the die.

 

[Aviddigi]

Quick questions for people using Aquagrafx rev2 on a 6800gt ... Are you people using Artic Silver for the ram chip or just the GPU????

I have installed my second 6800GT (I completly fucked up the first one) and guess what? I also fucked it up .... well i'm not sure since I never got to test the board without the AC block. Luckly the store took back the card but now i'm scrared shit of putting that card on the block. There must be something i'm doing wrong.

The first one I bent the card from screwing it to hard. But not the second one. The only guess is that I was using the Artic Silver on the ram chip .... I know the contact was good but what else?? With the Asus card when you remove the HSF they are little pieces of what looks like thermal paste in square form ... should I just leave those to protect the chips?

Thanks.

I used artic on all the 6800s ive built, and yes i take off the thermal pads and clean the areas where that crap gets left behind. I only use BFG or If i have them in stock PNY cards so i cant tell you much about the asus cards. Just put alittle on each ram chip in the middle and on the gpu alittle more in the same place since it will spread once you have everything screwed together.
Also with the over tightening if you dont tighten them enough the heat will kill them, some guy came to me the other day and was using the danger den block. He didnt want to bend the card and doing so didnt get good contact (gpu) damn thing went up to 100c when i hooked everything up. Turned everything off tighten everything up temps go down to 40c. Also my AC block rev1 does not bend as much as my rev 2 block, Not noticable from the outside but when there in your hand you can tell.

 

[zeebs]

Dan, it's me Zach, the guy you did the case for a few weeks ago. Any word on when that next shipment is coming in from Germany?

 

[ikellensbro]

Sigh, no one has answered my questions here, the community ghetto project thread, or the sticky, so I'll try here again for my now narrowed down questions for ocing an old 1600+:

For a very inexpensive, quality pump, Im thinking of a Via Aqua 1300, should I have it submerged or not for cooling just a 1600+, maybe a 5200? ? (just for the fun, hehe)
For the block, I want to make it myself, so how would this do, and how thick of copper should I get?
Finally, for the HC, 77 Bonneville/86 Chevette, something cheaper off ebay, or what else would you suggest?
BTW, I want to keep my remaining costs at $25 for the pump, $10 for the block, and $20 for the HC, less would always be better

 

[topcat989]

hey Dan, what's the latest word on stuff coming in? just curious

Man my trigger finger is itchy mate. Please say there is good news

Dan, it's me Zach, the guy you did the case for & just sold some water blocks to a few weeks ago. Any word on when that next shipment is coming in from Germany?

Dan we know your busy and that it's a PITA as far as shipping, but if you could just let peeps know where you're at on the next shipment would be nice. If you have no idea and you're waiting on AC to let you know, that's fine. thx

 

[Top Nurse]

Dan we know your busy and that it's a PITA as far as shipping, but if you could just let peeps know where you're at on the next shipment would be nice. If you have no idea and you're waiting on AC to let you know, that's fine. thx

I don't want to be a thread crapper so if you want another solution please PEM me.

 

[zeebs]

Dan we know your busy and that it's a PITA as far as shipping, but if you could just let peeps know where you're at on the next shipment would be nice. If you have no idea and you're waiting on AC to let you know, that's fine. thx

? Anybody home ?