SENTRY: Console-sized gaming PC case project

Discussion in 'Small Form Factor Systems' started by SaperPL, Sep 1, 2014.

  1. NuclearLemons

    NuclearLemons [H]Lite

    Messages:
    89
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2017
    get some weatherstripping off amazon or something, then coat the area around your gpu fan and your cpu fan so you have a ring of stripping in the gap between your gpu intake and the case itself. this will reduce noise by reducing the amount of turbulent air around the intakes and prevent re-circulating which will also reduce temps a bit. Next, what fan are you using on your cooler? try shoving a noctua 92mm if you can instead of the current cpu cooler fan, they run quiet as fuck. Next, half your fucking issue is that you have it horizontal. the case performs vastly better in the vertical position and your gpu temps and thus noise levels would be vastly lower.
     
    pendragon1 likes this.
  2. JUNEK9

    JUNEK9 n00bie

    Messages:
    31
    Joined:
    May 18, 2017
    Actually according to this youtube video posted by SaperPL, made by YetAnotherTechChannel putting it in a vertical position would be even worse than horizontal. It's the difference between the blower style and open air. I may try some of your other recommendations.

    See picture:
     

    Attached Files:

  3. NuclearLemons

    NuclearLemons [H]Lite

    Messages:
    89
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2017
    i am afraid your source isn't very well done, the temps may be the same but as i provide in pictures, the clock speeds are not. Simply put, it is far less effective to have it in a horizontal position. the gpu is hitting the same temps but at a slower speed. Linus in his own review of the case direcly says that horizontal positions directly hamper performance, In all tests, the fans had to spin faster to maintain those temps when in a horizontal position (which further makes it louder) Like it or not. The numbers don't lie
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Talyrius likes this.
  4. pendragon1

    pendragon1 [H]ardForum Junkie

    Messages:
    10,019
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2000
    try the weather stripping, its a good idea. it'll force the gpu to suck fresh air from outside the case.
     
    NuclearLemons likes this.
  5. FredomFM

    FredomFM n00bie

    Messages:
    17
    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2017
    Try undervolting, I habe my 1070 running at around 1800~1900MHz with 0.85~0.850v. I also set the power limit to 85%. It usually sits around 75-80%. Thanks to that I was able to slow my fans from around 1500~1700RPM to 1000~1200RPM. Also, what temperatur is your GPU running at?
     
  6. FISCHER

    FISCHER [H]Lite

    Messages:
    87
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2016
    I put together my Xeon e3 1231 v3, GTX 1080 and was surprised how easy it was to put the whole thing together (also pretty fast); only problems were the riser bring a bit stiff and finicky, I put it in the wrong way and tried to remove the PCIE and took me more force than I would have liked but all is fine and my custom GPU cable was too short (ordered for different case) and tried to use angled extension cable but didn't work so when back to stock SF600 which is not too bad actually. Haven't got to test temps but I think the L9i will be fine.

    Was just looking at the stand and it looks awesome but got me thinking about travel.. doesn't seem the most portable or is it just me? Like the legs sticking out. Any pics of it in a bag with the Sentry?
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018
  7. NuclearLemons

    NuclearLemons [H]Lite

    Messages:
    89
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2017
    did it on mine, really could tell a difference in gpu noise, especially considering how close the case actually is to me and i have a vega 64, hardly a queit card
    i use the bag it came with
     
  8. FISCHER

    FISCHER [H]Lite

    Messages:
    87
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2016
    The black plastic bag?
     
  9. NuclearLemons

    NuclearLemons [H]Lite

    Messages:
    89
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2017
    yup i then shove it with whatever im packing for travel
     
  10. Ej24

    Ej24 Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    491
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2016
    JUNEK9 did you replace just the heatsink? As in, did you put the vapor chamber heatsink inside the aero shroud? Or did you use the whole FE shroud and heatsink? It's also possible the card has a custom MSI bios that is more likely to ramp the fan rpm up at lower temperatures because the original Aero cooler is crap. Do you use any OC/tuning software like Afterburner? Maybe try making a custom fan curve?

    In either case, I definitely recommend trying to seal the gpu to the side of the case. I got this adhesive weatherstripping from a hardware store for just a few bucks. It should be tall enough to meet the side of the case. So, I guess 1/2-5/8in (15-20mm). I think I posted something on this many pages ago. Here's some more pictures.

    [​IMG]
    This ensures the gpu can only draw in cool, fresh air and not any hot recycled air. Pretty simple. Avoid getting the seal too close to the fan or it will actually make more noise.

    [​IMG]

    I also have 40mm fans on the side of the gpu chamber but honestly they don't do very much. Though I highly recommend getting fan filters if you don't already have them. These are generic magnetic ones. I did close off half the gpu chamber too as you can see towards the top of the picture, this increased pressure inside the case. Which works well when combined with a sealed cpu fan to greatly increase pressure inside the case. Below is the sealed cpu chamber which took quite a bit of trial and error to get the seal close but not touching the face of the fan.

    [​IMG]

    Hot air is ejected out the sides of the case pretty forcefully. Without this seal the cpu fan is totally passive, not really causing a net change in pressure, so it can't bring in as much fresh air or force out much hot air. With the seal, the cpu fan becomes a high pressure inward facing case fan. So additionally sealing half the gpu compartment, and some of the cpu side (obviously not where it would be choking the cpu or psu) can greatly increase positive pressure.

    I've done a few tests with and without seals I think it genuinely makes a difference. But as always, your mileage may vary. If someone has a better solution or a tweak to anything I've mentioned here, definitely share.
     
    Talyrius, ZombiPL, SaperPL and 2 others like this.
  11. ReaperX22

    ReaperX22 Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    454
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2013
    Apologies if this has been asked recently already:

    Any ideas on a retail date for these? (Seems like most backers have theirs already from the original run??) Super keen lol.
     
  12. ZombiPL

    ZombiPL Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    427
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2014
    We're preparing for something small (like 100 pcs) to test our new transport company (DHL). After the campaign the main problem were long delivery times which very often were longer than the numbers claimed by the shipping company. Before we will go forward we need to make some improvements in this field. In a week or two we will release a newsletter about it.
     
    RosaJ, St1X and ReaperX22 like this.
  13. ReaperX22

    ReaperX22 Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    454
    Joined:
    Oct 29, 2013
    Awesome, thanks for your reply! My ML03 Silverstone giant desperately needs replacing as a HTPC :p. Will keep an eye out! Keep up the great work!
     
  14. St1X

    St1X [H]Lite

    Messages:
    92
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2017
    Where do I sign up for this?
     
  15. RosaJ

    RosaJ Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    279
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2016
    ZombiPL likes this.
  16. Morzy

    Morzy Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    170
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2017
    I'll add more credit to weatherstripping. I don't do it for my GPU, but it helps the NH-L9i quite a lot. Incidentally, the loudest thing now is my HDD's..
     
  17. waspodov

    waspodov n00bie

    Messages:
    23
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2017
    IMG_20180106_104243.jpg
    Just installed 3D printed velocity stack on L9i decreasing idle temp and noise.. Max load still hot with slighty lower noise.
     
    RosaJ, SaperPL, loquens and 6 others like this.
  18. 7x1x

    7x1x [H]Lite

    Messages:
    85
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2016
    Would you be able to post some before and after temps and fan speeds?
     
  19. Ej24

    Ej24 Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    491
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2016
    I've been so very tempted to obtain a 3d printer for this very purpose. Shrouds, ducts, cowling, seals etc, are very useful for sff pc's. They're almost necessary due to the lack of case fans that normally bring in fresh air. I'm very curious to see more info on this.
     
    RosaJ likes this.
  20. RosaJ

    RosaJ Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    279
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2016
    Not sure where you live, but in the states most cities/towns have a couple libraries with 3D printers now. All for a few dollars if that, depending. I’ve wanted to make ducks for my Sentry and even a case for my rasPi for awhile. Just suck at the designing part.

    Also ditto on the temps!
     
    Ej24 likes this.
  21. 7x1x

    7x1x [H]Lite

    Messages:
    85
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2016
    mallard-duck-1024-768.jpg
     
    octagoncow, Jspr, Talyrius and 4 others like this.
  22. Ej24

    Ej24 Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    491
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2016
    The university I'm at has several 3d printers. I even worked in a biomedical engineering lab with one but the scientists that used it were insanely protective of it, I didn't even have the passcode to get in the room so I didn't even bother asking to tinker with it.

    Designing is the hardest part. I used to be fluent with Solid Works when I was younger but since moving to biomedical research I've forgotten everything I knew. I've tried messing around with FreeCAD and others. But it's frustrating. If I ever get back in to it I'd like to supply custom pieces and parts for modders, especially for projects like Sentry. But according to my girlfriend I already have too many hobbies. :D
     
    RosaJ likes this.
  23. RosaJ

    RosaJ Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    279
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2016
    7x1x likes this.
  24. J_bravo14

    J_bravo14 n00bie

    Messages:
    53
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2017
    Can you share the 3d model file so I can print one myself?
     
    RosaJ, Talyrius, DG25 and 2 others like this.
  25. SoSquidTaste

    SoSquidTaste n00bie

    Messages:
    26
    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2017
    Seconding this request waspodov <3 <3
     
  26. kyjol

    kyjol n00bie

    Messages:
    60
    Joined:
    May 6, 2017
    So I can't open my Sentry anymore. For some reason, after a few weeks of usage the screws were almost impossible to unscrew. I was careful, but the attached key destroyed the head of one screw (they are VERY soft) after just one attempt of unscrewing it - great. What do I do now? Should I just get a dremel and cut through the middle of the screw's head to be able to unscrew it with a flat screwdriver?

    Also, what precision torx screwdriver should I use with the Sentry screws? I'm not really a handy-man so the sizes/symbols used are just confusing.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2018
  27. ZombiPL

    ZombiPL Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    427
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2014
    7x1x likes this.
  28. Ryvaeus

    Ryvaeus n00bie

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2016
    I recently had this issue myself. I ended up taking a dremel tool to the screw head, cutting a slot into it, and using a regular flathead screwdriver to remove the screw.
     
    kyjol likes this.
  29. Ryvaeus

    Ryvaeus n00bie

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2016
    Back in December I wrote about modding the Sentry to fit the AmeriRack PCIe Bifurcation Riser.

    I'm happy to report that fitting a capture card (in my case, the Elgato 4k60 Pro) in the second slot works just fine.

    If someone would like to gift me a second GTX 1070 Katana, I'd be happy to test it in SLI. Otherwise, I think I'm done here :)

    sentry1.jpg

    sentry2.jpg

    sentry3.jpg

    Capture.PNG
     
  30. sevenalive

    sevenalive n00bie

    Messages:
    6
    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2017
    After a long process and a PSU/MB failure, I have almost finished my Sentry, still on the hunt for the best card and now that prices are crazy, I'm stuck waiting. I might wait for Volta/Ampere at this point.

    Don't miss the benchmark/temps results at the END of this post!

    Here's my sentry build: https://imgur.com/a/zeU8a

    ASRock Fatal1ty Z370 Gaming-ITX/ac
    Intel 8700 @ stock
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 2666MHz (PC4 21300) C16
    Thermolab LP53 Slim & Quiet CPU Cooler Intel 1155/1156
    Noctua 92 x 14 mm Low-Profile Cooling Fan with A-Series Blades (NF-A9x14) attached w/ Silicone Cooking Bands
    Samsung 960 EVO Series - 500GB NVMe - M.2 Internal SSD (MZ-V6E500BW) /w JP-P600-05 JunPus JP-P600 High Performance Thermal Pad 6W/mK (100x100mm) 0.5 mm on the front of the stick.
    Seagate FireCuda 2TB SSHD
    Corsair SF600 600W PSU - stock cables, would go for custom cables if someone else has the measurements for the board.
    Demcifilters - Sentry in vertical position.

    Future:
    Nvidia gfx / BFGD monitor
    5tb+ 2.5 storage drive


    The termal pad helped temps out of the case for the 960 evo, 8C lower. It's the same temp inside the case with the thermalpad vs out of case without thermal pad, which is saying something.

    I first had Kyronaut, but I found it really hard to apply. The paste is very dry and it sticks more to the spatula tool provided than anything else. The 10g tube looks to have a better applicator, I had the 1g tube.
    The TIM was sliding around on the processor and the lp53.
    I used PassMark Performance Test 9.0 on open air bench, my max cpu temps were between 80-85C, depending on the core with Kyronaut. I then decided to try Conductonaut, which got me a max of 80C, that was consistent across all cores. I then started to read a few stories from people having their conductonaut leaking and others warning it shouldn't be used between the cpu and heatsink. When I applied the conductonaut, I was trying to be careful, however, I didn't realize there was a small tip that I needed to attach. So I ended up with a ball instead of a pinhead. After spreading it, there was a small puddle aka lake effect. I knew I had too much. So I got paranoid and tore it down again, removed the conductonaut with q-tips and ISO. I went to reapply the LM, but it turns I used the whole tube in 1 use :(.

    I reapplied the kryonaut but got worse temps, applied it a few times and still poor temps compared to the first paste. I finally decided to live with it and close up the case. When I powered it on, it died almost immediately. Pressing the power button barely spun the fan and got nothing. I tore it down again and flipped the case upside down.....a screw fell out. I never had this happen, I didn't believe it, I flipped it over before I closed the case.

    So I thought the MB was dead. I was able to replace the motherboard. I tested it open air bench and turned it on.....nothing, not even a fan spin. I was about to flip my shit when I had the idea to see if the PSU is bad, I bought a refurb unit. I luckily had a PSU for 10 years that I never used, and I was able to test it. Power On, PC boots. At this point, I have to assume the screw came from inside the PSU. So I had to RMA my Refurb SF600 that I picked up over Black Friday.

    While I waited for a new PSU, I lapped the heatsink and the CPU with 1000 grid 10x in each direction, then again for 2000 grit. Spoiler alert, lapping doesn't do anything on this setup.

    I tried MX-4 since I ran out of Kyronaut, it is easy to apply. I re-pasted twice and got temps that matched the initial kryonaut paste. It's really on the application rather the material.

    The lapping made the copper shiny again after the liquid metal, but no observed improvement. I also tried the LP53 with fins parallel to the ram vs perpendicular. Temps were better with airflow, parallel to the ram, heat not trapped between VRM and RAM, but this does put pressure on the ram.

    I spent a bit of time doing cable management the best I could with the stock SF600 cables. I closed it up and it works (phew).

    I benched it again, using the same test. My temps' max now hits 99-100C :(
    I'm worried that when I add a gfx card, it will heat the CPU even more. I'm not overclocked but turbo boost is on. The RAM is running at CPU stock (2666). I'm just at the thermal limits of the heatsink and the case. My max is now 4.4ghz, with 2 cores going to 4.5, compared to 4.6 out of the case. Anyone else with similar temps?

    The Intel diagnostics tool heated up the CPU more than Performance Test or Prime95, it hit 100C out of the case and failed the test. With the MX-4, it barely passed but still hit 100C (probably a fluke, since the temp is checked every 2-3 seconds)

    I never delidded and after seeing these stress temps, It's looking more likely I'll be willing to attempt it. Anyone have temp comparisons for a 8700 delid?

    I'll be keeping the sentry vertical.

    I still need to get a GFX card.

    I was also in a unique position where I was able to capture benchmarks with various thermal pastes and I was able to test before and after Meltdown microcode updates.

    https://imgur.com/a/XyLno#puDqlIi
     

    Attached Files:

  31. RosaJ

    RosaJ Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    279
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2016
    That’s a darn shame, fantastic effort though.

    Why no pics of a beautifully lapped CPU? It’s been a long while since I’ve last seen one lapped!
     
  32. Ej24

    Ej24 Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    491
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2016
    Wow that's a lot of tinkering, trial and error, and headaches. Just to clarify, you are using the 65W tdp i7-8700? Non-k? If so, you definitely shouldn't get temps like that. I use the LP53 as well and never get temps like that. I was previously using a 4790S (65W tdp) in one of my Sentry pc's, which I upgraded to a 4790k (88W). With the 65W cpu, iirc, I would get temps up to ~75C when running Passmark. With the 4790k I'd reach maybe mid 80's to 90C. Then I delidded my cpu replaced the tim with liquid metal and temps dropped like crazy, I rarely see over 70C anymore during normal gaming use.

    I don't know exactly why you're seeing such temps. You've been using decent thermal paste. LP53 is a good cooler.

    You still have the fins parallel to the ram?
    Are the screws holding the heatsink down fully tightened? Is pressure being applied evenly? When you remove the heatsink do you see a good spread of paste? Or is it only spreading in one direction?

    The cpu power ribbon cable looks like it might be blocking some outward airflow. Probably negligible though.

    Maybe try a different method of mounting the fan? I know some people here have come up with crafty solutions for the lp53. The rubber bands may be hindering air intake slightly.

    Don't worry, we'll figure this out. Sentry is a small case but you still shouldn't get temps like that.

    Edit:
    did I see correctly that you're cpu vcore peaked at 1.375V? That's definitely not ok for stock coffee lake. Something is wrong. A 14nm Intel cpu like that shouldn't go over ~1.2v vcore unless you're manually tweaking voltage for OC purposes. My older 22nm Devils Canyon doesn't even go over 1.2V stock!

    Check your bios, some boards may ship with a bios that is configured for some sort of Auto Overclocking that raises vcore to unacceptable levels. Something is wrong with your vcore.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2018
    sevenalive and RosaJ like this.
  33. riba2233

    riba2233 n00bie

    Messages:
    63
    Joined:
    May 7, 2017
  34. 7x1x

    7x1x [H]Lite

    Messages:
    85
    Joined:
    Dec 29, 2016
    Looks like AR11 will cool well but be really noisy like the C7 because of the 47mm height pushing the fan up against the case.
     
  35. Ej24

    Ej24 Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    491
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2016
    With the 92mm x 14mm fan from Noctua it should be fine. I'll be curious to see how it performs. Though direct contact heatpipes are of dubious benefit in graphics cards due to the miniscule contact area, I think it will work alright for cpu's as they have an IHS to spread the heat.

    We'll see how it compares. It's only 290g in weight. The NH-L9i is 345g. The LP53 is 410g. It's hard to compete with a larger mass of metal. Though fin arrangement and heatpipe configuration can make a big difference, so we'll wait and see how it performs.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2018
  36. niclas90

    niclas90 n00bie

    Messages:
    32
    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2017
    The original fan is 15mm, so the noise will still be intense even with the Noctua fan.
     
  37. Ej24

    Ej24 Limp Gawd

    Messages:
    491
    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2016
    Is it? I thought it was 20mm. Smallformfactor.net listed it as 20mm but Silverstone's website says 15mm so I guess it is 15mm.
     
  38. Jadetea

    Jadetea n00bie

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2017
    The original prototype version that debuted back in Computex 2017 had a 20mm fan. It's pretty clear as day that it's a different fan in this picture:

    https://smallformfactor.net/news/silverstones-new-argon-ar11-49mm-lp-cooler

    Having said that, my guess that this will not be as good as the C7 based on direct contact heat pipes. No matter what marketing BS they feed you, direct contact heat pipes is not better than having a flat surface. This is strictly a cost cutting measure. Therefore, don't get your expectations up in matching the C7 let alone beating it.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2018